JP2010001259A - Water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic that has light feel at the time of application and excellent storage stability. <P>SOLUTION: The water-in-oil type emulsion cosmetic comprises (A) 0.02-0.2 mass% of lecithin, (B) 0.3-3.0 mass% of a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant having an HLB value of ≤6 and being liquid at 25°C and (C) 0.4-2.5 mass% of a solid oil component having an ester structure comprising behenic acid and glycerol and a melting point of 50-70°C. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, and particularly relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is light in touch and excellent in storage stability.

A major feature of water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics is that they have a long-lasting makeup and have been frequently used in foundations and sunscreens in recent years. However, the water-in-oil type is generally inferior in terms of storage stability compared to the oil-in-water type. This is considered to be due to the fact that the stabilizing effect by the electric double layer hardly acts in the former. Therefore, attempts have been made to improve the storage stability with various surfactants, one of which uses lecithin (see Patent Documents 1 and 2). However, in order to have both a light touch at the time of application and excellent storage stability, the results are not satisfactory.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-181180 JP 2006-241038 A

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is light in touch during application and excellent in storage stability.

  The above-mentioned purpose is (A) 0.02 to 0.2% by mass of lecithin, (B) a HLB value of 6 or less, and 0.3 to 3 of a polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester surfactant that is liquid at 25 ° C. Achieved by water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics containing 0.4 to 2.5% by mass of solid oil having an ester structure of 0.0% by mass and (C) behenic acid and glycerin and a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C. Is done.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a light touch when applied and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has advantages such as long-lasting makeup, uniform finish, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). have.

  The (A) lecithin used in the present invention is obtained from soybeans, egg yolks and the like, and is a mixture of several phospholipids including phosphatidylcholine. Those having improved oxidation stability by hydrogenation can also be used. The blending amount is 0.02 to 0.2% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, and 0.05 to 0.15% by mass is particularly preferable. If it is less than 0.02% by mass, satisfactory results cannot be obtained in terms of storage stability. When it exceeds 0.2 mass%, it may precipitate as a crystal | crystallization depending on the compatibility in an oil phase component.

The polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant (B) having an HLB value of 6 or less used in the present invention and liquid at 25 ° C. is sorbitan fatty acid ester or glycerin fatty acid ester. Particularly preferred are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate. The blending amount is 0.3 to 3.0% by mass, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If it is less than 0.3% by mass, satisfactory results are not obtained in terms of storage stability. If it exceeds 3.0% by mass, the liquid surfactant itself will feel strongly sticky, and the feeling during application will be heavy. In addition, the HLB value in this invention means what is calculated by the following Kawakami formula (I).
HLB = 7 + 11.7 log (Mw / Mo) (I)
Here, in the formula (I), Mw represents the molecular weight of the hydrophilic base and Mo represents the molecular weight of the lipophilic base.

  (C) The solid oil component having an ester structure consisting of behenic acid and glycerin used in the present invention and having a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C. includes glyceryl tribehenate, tri (behenic acid / isostearic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (Behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl and the like, particularly preferred is glyceryl tribehenate. The blending amount is 0.4 to 2.5% by mass, particularly preferably 0.6 to 2.0% by mass based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.4% by mass, the amount is insufficient to increase the viscosity of the oil phase and improve the storage stability. If it exceeds 2.5% by mass, the oil phase becomes too hard, and a light feel during application cannot be obtained.

  In addition to the above essential components, the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains an oil component, a moisturizer, an emulsifier, a fragrance, a UV absorber, an antiseptic, a plant extract, a pigment and the like as necessary. be able to.

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared according to a conventional method, and can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as foundations, makeup bases, sunscreens, and skin care cosmetics such as creams and emulsions. Is possible.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is further explained in full detail, this invention is not limited by this.

Example 1 (skin care cream)
(mass%)
1. Egg yolk-derived lecithin 0.05
2. Sorbitan monooleate 2.0
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 1.5
4). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 1 20.0
5). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C50 as Main Component 5.0
6). Propylene glycol dicaprylate 3.0
7). Dipropylene glycol 5.0
8). Maltitol 3.0
9. Chlorphenesin 0.2
10. Purified water to 100.0
11. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
12 Astragalus extract 0.5
13. Panax ginseng extract 0.5
14 Royal Jelly Extract 0.5
* 1; TSF405 (Momentive Performance Materials Japan)

Production Method Components 1 to 6 were dissolved by heating, and components 7 to 10 were dissolved by heating and dispersed therein. Further, components 11 to 14 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 1
A skin care cream was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yolk-derived lecithin in Example 1 was 0.01% by mass and the cyclic pentamer silicone was 20.04% by mass.

Example 2 (Sunscreen)
(mass%)
1. Egg yolk-derived hydrogenated lecithin 0.08
2. Diglyceryl monooleate 2.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 2.0
4). Branched tetramer silicone * 2 15.0
5). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 1 5.0
6). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 7.0
7). Plant-based squalane 3.0
8). Silicone-treated fine particle zinc oxide 2.0
9. Glycerin 3.0
10. Chlorphenesin 0.2
11. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
12 Purified water to 100.0
13. Fish-derived collagen 0.1
14 Sage extract 0.5
15. Hydrolyzed silk 0.1
* 2: TMF-1.5 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

Production method Components 1 to 7 were dissolved by heating, and then component 8 was added and dispersed. This was added with components 9-12 dissolved by heating and dispersed, and further components 13-15 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 2
In place of diglyceryl monooleate in Example 2, glyceryl monostearate (NIKKOL MGS-AMV, manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) having an HLB value of 4 and a temperature of 25 ° C. was used in the same manner as in Example 2. Adjusted the screen.

Example 3 (make-up base)
(mass%)
1. Soybean-derived lecithin 0.1
2. Diglyceryl monoisostearate 0.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 1.0
4). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 1 15.0
5). Alkyl-modified linear trimer silicone * 3 10.0
6). Α-Olefin Oligomer with C30 as Main Component 5.0
7). Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate 2.0
8). Polyether-modified silicone * 4 0.03
9.1,3-Butylene glycol 5.0
10. Sorbitol 3.0
11. Purified water to 100.0
12 Titanium oxide 0.5
13. Bengala, titanium oxide, aluminum oxide coated mica 0.1
14 Talc 1.0
15. Phenoxyethanol 0.5
16. Juzdama extract 0.3
17. Cha extract 0.3
18. Black tea extract 0.3
* 3: SS-3408 (Toray Dow Corning)
* 4; KF-6028 (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.)

Production Method Components 12 to 14 were mixed and pulverized, and components 1 to 8 were added to and dispersed in the heated solution. Ingredients 9-11 were dissolved and added with warming, and then components 15-18 were added and dispersed, followed by cooling to room temperature.

Comparative Example 3
A makeup base was prepared in the same manner as in Example 3, except that cetanol was used instead of glyceryl tribehenate in Example 3.

Example 4 (Foundation)
(mass%)
1. Soybean hydrogenated lecithin 0.15
2. Sorbitan monoisostearate 1.0
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 0.6
4). Polyether-modified silicone mixture * 5 0.3
5). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 1 10.0
6). Isononyl isononanoate 5.0
7). Diisostearyl malate 1.0
8). Maltitol 5.0
9. Dipropylene glycol 2.0
10. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
11. Purified water to 100.0
12 Titanium oxide 8.0
13. Iron oxide 1.0
14 Talc 3.0
15. Nylon-12 powder 1.5
16. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
17. Hydrolyzed conchiolin 0.1
18. Olive leaf extract 0.1
19. Laminaria blue squid extract 0.1
* 5: BY22-008M (10% polyether-modified silicone, 88% cyclic pentamer silicone, 2% water, manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)

Production Method Ingredients 12 to 15 were mixed and pulverized, and ingredients 1 to 7 were added to and dissolved in the heated solution. Ingredients 8-11 were dissolved and added with heating, and then dispersed, and further components 16-19 were added and dispersed, and then cooled to room temperature.

Comparative Example 4
The foundation was adjusted in the same manner as in Example 4 except that 0.3% by mass of glyceryl tribehenate and 10.3% by mass of cyclic pentamer silicone in Example 4 were used.

Test methods of (1) use characteristic evaluation test and (2) storage stability test conducted in the present invention are as follows.
(1) Use characteristic evaluation test Twenty female panel members applied each sample of the examples and comparative examples, and the use characteristics were evaluated according to the number of respondents who replied that "feel when applied" was light.
(2) Storage stability test The cosmetic was stored in a thermostatic bath at 0 ° C, 25 ° C, and 45 ° C for 3 months, and it was examined whether separation of the water phase component and the oil phase component occurred.
No separation when stored at any temperature: ◎
Not separated when stored at 25 ° C or lower, separated when stored at 45 ° C: ○
Separate even when stored at 25 ° C or lower: ×
The result of having performed the said test to each sample of Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-4 is shown below.

Examples Comparative examples
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――――
Service characteristics evaluation test 19 16 18 17 19 12 3 17
Storage stability test ◎ ◎ ◎ ◎ × × ○ ×

The samples of Examples 1 to 4 of the present invention were superior to the samples of Comparative Examples 1 to 4 in the comprehensive evaluation of usage characteristics and storage stability.

Example 5 (Foundation)
A foundation having the following formulation was prepared according to a conventional method, and the use characteristic evaluation test and the storage stability test were performed. In both cases, excellent results were obtained.
(mass%)
1. Soybean-derived hydrogenated lecithin 0.1
2. Sorbitan monoisostearate 0.5
3. Glyceryl tribehenate 1.0
4). Polyether-modified silicone mixture * 5 10.0
5). Cyclic pentamer silicone * 1 10.0
6). Plant-based squalane 5.0
7). 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 3.0
8). Maltitol 5.0
9. Dipropylene glycol 2.0
10. Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1
11. Sodium chloride 0.5
12 Purified water to 100.0
13. Titanium oxide 8.0
14 Iron oxide 1.0
15. Talc 3.0
16. Polyalkyl acrylate * 6 1.5
17. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
18. Rose water 0.1
19. Ubiquinone 0.03
* 5: BY22-008M (10% polyether-modified silicone, 88% cyclic pentamer silicone, 2% water, manufactured by Toray Dow Corning)
* 6: Microsphere S-102 (Matsumoto Yushi Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)

  The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has a light touch when applied and is particularly excellent in storage stability, but also has advantages such as long-lasting makeup, finish uniformity, moisture retention, and safety (low irritation). I have. Therefore, it can be applied in the field of pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs and cosmetics used for skin conditioning and beauty, and is extremely useful in industry.

Claims (1)

(A) Lecithin 0.02-0.2 mass%, (B) HLB value 6 or less, liquid polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester type surfactant at 25 ° C. 0.3-3.0 mass%, (C) A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having an ester structure composed of behenic acid and glycerin and containing 0.4 to 2.5% by mass of a solid oil component having a melting point of 50 to 70 ° C.