JP6281744B2 - Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to sodium lauryl dilauroylglutamate, sucrose fatty acid ester and / or polyoxyethylene sterol ether having an HLB of 14 or more, sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB of 4 or less, glycerin and / or 1,3-butylene glycol, oil agent In addition, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing water contains a sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB of 14 or more and / or a polyoxyethylene sterol ether and a sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB of 4 or less, and contains emulsified particles. The oil-in-water emulsified composition is characterized by having a particle size of 1 μm or less. More specifically, the skin feels good with a fresh feeling of use, and the skin firmness and moisturizing effect lasts for a long time. The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic.

Conventionally, a method of blending a large amount of a polyhydric alcohol such as glycerin or 1,3-butylene glycol or a water-soluble polymer has been used for the purpose of imparting a moisturizing effect to cosmetics. However, when these are mixed in a large amount, there is a drawback that a sticky feeling is generated. Moreover, a method of blending a large amount of a paste-like oil agent or a solid oil agent for the purpose of obtaining a firm feeling of the skin has been disclosed (see Patent Document 1). However, blending a large amount of these improves the firmness of the skin, but it has the disadvantage that it feels sticky and unfamiliar with the skin, and it still emulsifies the firmness and good usability of the skin. Development of cosmetics is desired.
By the way, in order to make the particle size of the emulsified particles fine, there is known a technique for reducing the particle size of the emulsified particles using mechanical force such as a high-pressure emulsifier (see Patent Documents 2 and 3). However, when the viscosity of the emulsion is high, the high-pressure emulsifier may not pass through the high-pressure emulsifier, and the emulsion particle size may vary. Therefore, it is desired to develop a technology for reducing the emulsified particle diameter to 1 μm or less without using a special apparatus.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 6-62382 Japanese Patent No. 4255078 Japanese Patent No. 4297648

  Therefore, it is an object to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that has a fresh feeling of use and is well-familiar with the skin, and that has a firmness and a moisturizing effect for a long time.

  In view of such a situation, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies, and as a result, dilauroyl glutamic acid lysine sodium, HLB 14 or more sucrose fatty acid ester and / or polyoxyethylene sterol ether, HLB 4 or less sucrose fatty acid ester, glycerin And / or 1,3-butylene glycol, an oil agent, water, and the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic characterized in that the particle size of the emulsified particles is 1 μm or less has been found to solve the above problems. The present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention comprises the following components (a) to (f);
(A) Sodium dilauroylglutamate ricin (b) sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB of 14 or more and / or polyoxyethylene sterol ether (c) sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB of 4 or less (d) glycerin and / or 1,3 -Butylene glycol (e) oil agent (f) It contains water, the total content of components (b) and (c) is 0.8 to 4% by mass, and the content ratio is 1: 0 by mass. The present invention provides an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that is in the range of 1 to 1: 1 and that the particle size of the emulsified particles is 1 μm or less.

  In the present invention, the component (b) is one or more selected from sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol and polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol, The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic is provided.

  Moreover, this invention provides the said oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic whose component (c) is sucrose pentahydroxystearic acid ester.

  The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that has a fresh feeling of use and is well-familiar with the skin, and also has a firmness and moisturizing effect for a long time.

  The component (a) lysine sodium dilauroyl glutamate used in the present invention functions as an emulsifier having excellent stability in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, and dilauroyl glutamic acid used in ordinary cosmetics. Any lysine sodium can be used. Commercially available dilauroyl glutamate lysine sodium can be used, and commercially available Perisea LB-10 and Perisea-30 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corporation can be used. Perisea LB-10 is composed of 10% lysine sodium dilauroylglutamate, 10% 1,3-butylene glycol and 80% water, and Perisea L-30 is composed of 29% lysine sodium dilauroylglutamate and 71% water. The

  The content of the component (a) in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 0.9% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”), and is 0.2 to 0.6%. Is more preferable. When the content of the component (a) is within this range, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with better emulsifying power and stability over time can be obtained.

The component (b) sucrose fatty acid ester and / or polyoxyethylene sterol ether having 14 or more HLB used in the present invention functions as an emulsifier in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention. Any material can be used as long as it is used as a material. Specifically, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristic ester, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol, polyoxyethylene (30) phytosterol , Polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol, and the like, and one or more of them can be used. Among these, as component (b), when one or more selected from sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol and polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol are selected, It is easy to obtain finer emulsified particles, and an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with good temporal stability can be obtained. The HLB value of the surfactant in the present invention is a value calculated by the following Griffin equation.
HLB value = (molecular weight of hydrophilic group portion / molecular weight of surfactant) × 20

  Commercially available sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol and polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol can be used, and sucrose palmitate is Mitsubishi Chemical Foods Corporation. Surf Hope SE COSME C-1616 (HLB16) manufactured by the company, Surf Hope SE COSME C-1816 (HLB16) manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Foods Co., Ltd. as the sucrose stearate, Nikko Chemicals as the polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol NIKKOL BPS-20 (HLB15.5) manufactured by NIKKOL BPSH-25 (HLB14.5) manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd. is an example of polyoxyethylene phytostanol ether. Yes.

  The sucrose fatty acid ester having a component (c) HLB of 4 or less used in the present invention is excellent in moisture retention in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention and functions as a skin firmness and emollient effect by the cosmetic film. Any one can be used as long as it is used for ordinary cosmetics. Specifically, sucrose pentahydroxystearic acid ester, sucrose hexaisostearic acid ester, and the like can be mentioned, and when these are selected, it is easier to obtain a firmness of the skin and a moisturizing effect with a cosmetic film, and the usability is improved. A good oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic can be obtained.

  Commercially available sucrose pentahydroxystearate and sucrose hexaisostearate can be used. As sucrose pentahydroxystearate, CRODESTA 5-HS (HLB3.9), manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd. Examples of the sugar hexaisostearic acid ester include CRODESTA 6-IS (HLB3.5) manufactured by Croda Japan.

  The total content of the components (b) and (c) in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.8 to 4%, more preferably 1 to 3%, and the content ratio is a mass ratio. In the range of 1: 0.1 to 1: 1. When the total content and mass ratio of the components (b) and (c) are in this range, the skin feels better by the cosmetic film and the moisturizing effect is more excellent, the usability is good, and the stability over time is excellent. An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic can be obtained. On the other hand, if the total content and mass ratio of the components (b) and (c) are out of this range, the usability may be poor in terms of use, or the stability of the emulsified system may be reduced.

  As the component (d) glycerin and / or 1,3-butylene glycol used in the present invention, any one can be used as long as it is used in ordinary cosmetics, and these may be used alone or in combination. Can do. By selecting glycerin and / or 1,3-butylene glycol, it is possible to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that facilitates obtaining finer emulsified particles and has particularly good temporal stability.

  The content of the component (d) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 2 to 20%, more preferably 4 to 15%. When the content of the component (d) is within this range, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with a better feeling of use and a better moisturizing effect can be obtained.

  Examples of the component (e) oil used in the present invention include ester oils, animal and vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, and the like. Either paste or liquid can be used. Specifically, as the liquid oil, meadow foam oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, almond oil, olive oil, kyounin oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil , Jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, mink oil, cottonseed oil, palm oil, castor oil, liquid lanolin, squalane, squalene, liquid paraffin, pristane, polyisobutylene, undecylenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, isostearic acid, adipic acid 2-hexyldecyl, monoisostearic acid-alkyl glycol, isocetyl isostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylol tri-2-ethylhexanoate Propane, tetra-2-ethylhexanoate pentaerythritol, cetyl octanoate, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, di-2 sebacate -Ethylhexyl, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, glyceride triisostearate, glyceride tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceride di-2-heptylundecanoate, dimer acid diester, methyl polysiloxane, methyl phenyl polysiloxane , Ethylpolysiloxane, ethylmethylpolysiloxane, ethylphenylpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, etc. Gerare, it can be used singly or in combination. In addition, as paste oil, cacao butter, shea butter, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, lanolin, reduced lanolin, lanolin alcohol, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, petrolatum, monostearic acid cured castor oil, monohydroxystearic acid cured Castor oil, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosin) ester, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di (cholesteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L- Glutamate di (phytosteryl, behenyl, 2-octyldodecyl), N-myristoyl-N-methyl β-alanine (phytosteryl, decyltetradecyl), polyglycerin fatty acid ester, macadamia nut oil fatty acid salt Tosuteriru, diester dimer acid and the like, and these can be used singly or in combination. Furthermore, solid oils include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, hydrogenated rapeseed oil alcohol, alkyl glyceryl ether, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, whale wax, beeswax, ceresin, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, stearic acid, behenic acid. , 12-hydroxystearic acid, cetyl palmitate, (isostearic acid / behenic acid) (glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters, polyethylene glycol distearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl tribehenate, stearyl-modified polysiloxane, etc. One or more of these can be used.

  In the present invention, the component (e) must contain 70% or more of the liquid oil, more preferably 75% or more. When the content of the liquid oil in the component (e) is less than 70%, it is not possible to obtain a feeling of familiarity with the skin.

  The content of component (e) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 10 to 55%, more preferably 15 to 50%. When the content of the component (e) is less than 10%, the skin cannot be sufficiently moistened and the moisturizing effect is not good. Moreover, when content of a component (e) exceeds 55%, stickiness will be produced at the time of application | coating and a fresh feeling of use cannot be obtained.

  The component (f) water used in the present invention is a component that forms the outer phase of an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic. The content of component (f) in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 25 to 75%. When the content of the component (f) is within this range, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with better emulsifiability and excellent fresh feeling can be obtained.

  The particle size of the emulsified particles in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is essential to be 1 μm or less, and more preferably 0.5 μm or less. When the particle diameter of the emulsified particles exceeds 1 μm, it is impossible to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic material that has a good skin feel and better temporal stability.

  In the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, as components used in ordinary cosmetics, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, aqueous components, water-soluble high Molecules, antioxidants, ultraviolet absorbers, powders, fragrances, chelating agents, preservatives, colorants, cosmetic ingredients, and the like can be contained within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

  The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to makeup cosmetics such as basic cosmetics such as beauty liquids, milky lotions, creams, packs, foundations, and foundations. The form of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention may be any of liquid, emulsion, cream, solid and the like.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. Note that these do not limit the present invention. All blending amounts are mass% unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1-15 and Comparative Examples 1-15
With the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 6, oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics were prepared by the production method shown below.
(Production method)
(A) Dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium lysine, (b) HLB 14 or more sucrose fatty acid ester or polyoxyethylene sterol ether and (d) glycerin and / or butylene glycol are uniformly mixed (Tables 3 and 6 are formulated at 80 ° C.) (C) The sucrose fatty acid ester having HLB of 4 or less and (e) the oil agent were mixed little by little and mixed to form a gel and heated to 80 ° C. Warm up. (F) Water heated to 80 ° C. was added to emulsify, and then cooled to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic.

  About the obtained oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic, the emulsion particle diameter, stability and usability (freshness, familiarity with skin, firmness to skin, moisturizing effect) were evaluated by the following test methods. The results are shown in Tables 1-6.

Emulsion particle diameter The emulsion particle diameter was measured by the light scattering method. As the measuring apparatus, FPAR-1000 (manufactured by Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.) was used. The emulsified particle size was determined according to the following criteria.
A: Emulsified particle diameter is 0.5 μm or less.
○: The emulsified particle diameter exceeds 0.5 μm and is 1 μm or less.
X: The emulsified particle diameter exceeds 1 μm.

Stability test The appearance of the sample after standing for 1 month at 50 ° C. was observed visually and with a microscope, and judged according to the following criteria.
○: No aggregation of separated / emulsified particles was observed.
Δ: Almost no separation / aggregation of emulsified particles was observed.
X: Separation or aggregation of emulsified particles occurred.

Usability (freshness)
A use test was conducted by a female panel (20 persons), and the freshness was evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: 18 or more people judged fresh.
○: 14 to 17 persons determined to be fresh.
(Triangle | delta): Nine to thirteen people judged that it was fresh.
X: Eight or less people judged to be fresh.

Usability (skin familiarity)
A usage test was conducted by a female professional panel (20 persons), and skin familiarity was evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: 18 or more people judged that familiarity with skin was good.
○: 14 to 17 persons determined that familiarity with the skin was good.
(Triangle | delta): Nine to thirteen people judged that familiar with skin was good.
×: Eight or less people determined to be familiar with the skin.

Usability (harness: immediately after application, 3 hours after application)
A use test was conducted by a female professional panel (20 persons), and the firmness of the skin was evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: 18 or more people judged that they felt firmness.
A: It was determined that 14 to 17 people felt a sense of elasticity.
(Triangle | delta): Nine to thirteen people judged having a feeling of elasticity.
X: Eight or less people determined to feel firmness.

Usability (Moisturizing effect: Immediately after application, 3 hours after application)
A use test was conducted by a female professional panel (20 persons), and the moisturizing effect was evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: 18 or more people judged to feel the moisturizing effect.
○: 14 to 17 persons judged to feel the moisturizing effect.
Δ: It was determined that 9 to 13 people felt a moisturizing effect.
X: Eight or less people determined to feel the moisturizing effect.

In Tables 1 to 3, the following products were used as the components shown below.

Dilauroyl glutamate ricin sodium (10% aqueous solution) * 1: Perisea LB-10 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corporation
Sucrose stearate * 2: Surf Hope SE COSME C-1816 manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Foods Corporation
Sucrose pentahydroxystearic acid ester * 3: CROSESTA 5-HS manufactured by CRODA JAPAN
(Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (Glyceryl / Polyglyceryl-6) Esters * 4: S face VL-212 manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.
Dilauroyl glutamic acid ricin sodium (30% aqueous solution) * 5: Perisea L-30 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Chemicals Corporation
Sucrose palmitate ester * 6: Surf Hope SE COSME C-1616 manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Foods Corporation
Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl * 7: Plandool-MAS manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd.
Polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol * 8: NIKKOL BPS-20 manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.
Polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol * 9: NIKKOL BPSH-25 manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.
N-myristoyl-N-methyl β-alanine (phytosteryl decyltetradecyl) * 10: Eldue APS-307 manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

  From the results of Tables 1 to 3, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics of Examples 1 to 15 according to the present invention have an emulsified particle diameter, stability and usability (freshness, familiarity with the skin, firmness to the skin, moisturizing effect. It can be seen that both of the above effects are excellent. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 to 15 which do not satisfy the constituent requirements of the present invention could not have all the effects of the emulsified particle size, stability and usability.

  Other examples of the present invention will be shown below.

(Example 16: Cleansing cream)
(Compounding ingredients)
(1) Sodium dilauroylglutamate ricin (10% aqueous solution) 1.0
(2) Surf Hope SE COSME C-1816 2.0
(3) Glycerin 10.0
(4) Sucrose pentahydroxystearate ester 0.5
(5) Meadowfoam oil 18.0
(6) Squalane 18.0
(7) Octyldodecyl myristate 9.0
(8) Stearyl alcohol 0.5
(9) Behenyl alcohol 0.5
(10) Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl 1.0
(11) Cetyl palmitate 3.0
(12) Purified water residue (13) Disodium edetate 0.1
(14) Carbomer 0.8
(15) Dipropylene glycol 5.0
(16) Paraben 0.1
(17) Potassium hydroxide 0.2
(18) Fragrance 0.1
(Manufacturing method)
(1) to (3) are uniformly mixed, and (4) to (11), which are previously uniformly mixed at 80 ° C., are added little by little while rotating the paddle to form a gel. While the gel is heated to 80 ° C., (12) to (18) heated to 80 ° C. after uniform mixing is slowly added to the gel while rotating the paddle and emulsified. When the emulsification was completed, it was rapidly cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain the desired cleansing cream.
(Evaluation)
When the obtained cleansing cream was evaluated according to the above-mentioned test / evaluation criteria, it was effective in any of the emulsified particle diameter, stability and usability (freshness, familiarity with the skin, firmness to the skin, moisturizing effect). Was also excellent.

(Example 17: Latex)
(Compounding ingredients) (mass%)
(1) Dilauroyl glutamic acid sodium lysine (30% aqueous solution) 2.0
(2) Surf Hope SE COSME C-1616 1.0
(3) Glycerin 15.0
(4) Sucrose pentahydroxystearate ester 0.5
(5) Meadowfoam oil 10.0
(6) Squalane 5.0
(7) Dimethicone 1.0
(8) Behenyl alcohol 0.5
(9) (Isostearic acid / behenic acid) (Glyceryl / Polyglycol)
Seryl-6) Esters 1.0
(10) Purified water residue (11) Sodium metaphosphate 0.1
(12) Bentonite 0.5
(13) Xanthan gum 0.1
(14) Dipropylene glycol 10.0
(15) Paraben 0.1
(16) Fragrance 0.1
(Manufacturing method)
(1) to (3) are uniformly mixed, and (4) to (9), which are previously uniformly mixed at 80 ° C., are added little by little while rotating the paddle to form a gel. While the gel is heated to 80 ° C., (10) to (16) heated to 80 ° C. after uniform mixing is slowly added to the gel while rotating the paddle and emulsified. When the emulsification was completed, it was rapidly cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain the desired emulsion.
(Evaluation)
When the obtained emulsion was evaluated according to the above-described test and evaluation criteria, it was found that the emulsion particle size, stability and usability (freshness, familiarity with skin, firmness to the skin, moisturizing effect) It was excellent.

(Example 18: Emollient cream)
(Compounding ingredients) (mass%)
(1) Sodium dilauroylglutamate ricin (10% aqueous solution) 3.0
(2) Polyoxyethylene (25) Phytostanol 1.0
(3) 1,3-butylene glycol 4.0
(4) Sucrose pentahydroxystearate 0.3
(5) Meadow foam oil 12.0
(6) Squalane 10.0
(7) Octyldodecyl myristate 4.0
(8) Cetyl palmitate 2.0
(9) Stearyl alcohol 1.5
(10) Behenyl alcohol 1.5
(11) N-myristoyl-N-methyl β-alanine (phytoste
Lil decyl tetradecyl) 3.0
(12) Purified water residue (13) Disodium edetate 0.1
(14) Carbomer 1.0
(15) Xanthan gum 0.1
(16) Propylene glycol 5.0
(17) Glycerin 5.0
(18) Paraben 0.1
(19) Potassium hydroxide 0.3
(20) Fragrance 0.1
(Manufacturing method)
(1) to (3) are uniformly mixed, and (4) to (11), which are previously uniformly mixed at 80 ° C., are added little by little while rotating the paddle to form a gel. While the gel is heated to 80 ° C., (12) to (20) heated to 80 ° C. after uniform mixing is slowly added to the gel while rotating the paddle and emulsified. When the emulsification was completed, it was rapidly cooled to 35 ° C. to obtain the target emollient cream.
(Evaluation)
When the obtained emollient cream was evaluated according to the above-mentioned test / evaluation criteria, the emulsified particle diameter, stability and usability (freshness, familiarity with skin, firmness to the skin, moisturizing effect) Was also excellent.

  According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that has a fresh feeling of use and is well-familiar with the skin, and that has a firmness and a moisturizing effect for a long time.

Claims (3)

The following components (a) to (f);
(A) dilauroyl glutamate lysine sodium (b) HLB is 14 or more sucrose fatty acid esters and / or polyoxyethylene sterol ether (c) HLB of 4 or less of the sucrose fatty et scan ether (d) glycerol and / or 1 , 3-butylene glycol (e) oil agent (f) contains water, the total content of components (b) and (c) is 0.8 to 4% by mass, and the content ratio is 1 by mass. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition is characterized in that it is in the range of 0.1 to 1: 1, and the particle size of the emulsified particles is 1 μm or less.   The component (b) is one or more selected from sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, polyoxyethylene (20) phytosterol and polyoxyethylene (25) phytostanol. Item 1. An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to Item 1. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (c) is sucrose pentahydroxystearate.