JP4332062B2 - Water-in-oil whitening cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic, and more specifically, in a water-in-oil cosmetic containing a hydroquinone glycoside and having a whitening effect, has good stability, good skin fit and smoothness, and is not sticky. The present invention relates to a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic that is excellent in use feeling such as no moisture, and has excellent treatment effects such as moisturizing effect, emollient effect, and high stickiness after use.

  Various dosage forms and cosmetics have been developed as cosmetics having a whitening effect containing hydroquinone glycosides already known to have a whitening effect (see Patent Documents 1 and 2). Among various dosage forms used in cosmetics, emulsifier types are suitable for cosmetics intended for treatment effects such as moisturizing effect and emollient effect, and are preferred and used. In particular, when a particularly high treatment effect is expected, it can be said that the water-in-oil emulsifier type is suitable. Therefore, it can be said that the water-in-oil emulsifier type is suitable for whitening cosmetics that are intended to add a high protective effect and treatment effect in addition to the whitening effect. However, the water-in-oil emulsifier type has a poor feeling of familiarity and stickiness to the skin of the oil-in-water emulsifier type. In this respect, it is excellent in moisturizing effect and emollient effect, but it is difficult to obtain a skin with a high feeling of elasticity (feeling that the skin is moistened and stretched). .

  Hydroquinone glycosides are already known to have a whitening effect, but at the same time, many water-soluble whitening agents containing hydroquinone glycosides are also known to have a sticky feeling (Patent Document 3). reference). Among water-soluble whitening agents, hydroquinone glycosides have a strong stickiness, and it is difficult to say that they are suitable for blending into water-in-oil emulsion compositions.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 61-207317 JP 2003-201228 A JP 2002-104919 A

  Therefore, while having a whitening effect, the stability over time is good, the skin feels well, the feeling of sticking is excellent, and there is no stickiness, etc., the skin after use has a moisturizing effect, an emollient effect, Development of water-in-oil whitening cosmetics that have excellent treatment effects, such as high skin feel, is desired.

  In view of the above situation, as a result of diligent research, the present inventor, in a whitening cosmetic containing hydroquinone glycoside, contains polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate and polyaspartate, so It is found that a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic with good stickiness, moisturizing effect and emollient effect is recognized on the skin after use, and also has good temporal stability, The present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides the following whitening cosmetics containing hydroquinone glycosides (a), (b);
The present invention relates to a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic comprising (a) polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate (b) polyaspartate.
Further, the water-in-oil whitening in which the content of the component (a) is 0.3 to 6% by mass and the content of the component (b) is 0.01 to 10% by mass (hereinafter simply referred to as “%”). It relates to cosmetics.
Still further, the component (c) contains a fatty acid ester having a branched chain in the molecule, and preferably the component (c) is contained in the oily component of the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic agent in an amount of 10 to 95%. It relates to water-type whitening cosmetics.

  The water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention has a whitening effect, has good stability over time, has a feeling of familiarity with the skin, has a feeling of sticking, has no stickiness, and is moisturized after use. The effect and the emollient effect are also high, and it is particularly excellent in treatment effects such as a high feeling of elasticity on the skin.

  The present invention relates to a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic, and contains a water-soluble hydroquinone glycoside already known to have a high whitening effect as a whitening agent. Specifically, the following components can be mentioned. For example, hydroquinone α-D-glucose, hydroquinone β-D-glucose, hydroquinone α-L-glucose, hydroquinone β-L-glucose, hydroquinone α-D-galactose, hydroquinone β-D-galactose, hydroquinone α-L-galactose Hexasaccharide glycosides such as hydroquinone β-L-galactose, hydroquinone α-D-ribose, hydroquinone β-D-ribose, hydroquinone α-L-ribose, hydroquinone β-L-ribose, hydroquinone α-D-arabinose Hydroquinone β-D-arabinose, hydroquinone α-L-arabinose, quinosaccharide glycosides such as hydroquinone β-L-arabinose, hydroquinone α-D-glucosamine, hydroquinone β-D-glucosamine, hydroquinone Amino sugar glycosides such as -L-glucosamine, hydroquinone β-L-glucosamine, hydroquinone α-D-galactosamine, hydroquinone β-D-galactosamine, hydroquinone α-L-galactosamine, hydroquinone β-L-galactosamine, hydroquinone α- D-glucuronic acid, hydroquinone β-D-glucuronic acid, hydroquinone α-L-glucuronic acid, hydroquinone β-L-glucuronic acid, hydroquinone α-D-galacturonic acid, hydroquinone β-D-galacturonic acid, hydroquinone α-L- Examples include uronic acid glycosides such as galacturonic acid and hydroquinone β-L-galacturonic acid. In the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention, at least one or two or more kinds selected from the group consisting of the hydroquinone glycosides are appropriately selected and contained according to the purpose. Among these hydroquinone glycosides, hydroquinone β-D-glucose (generic name: arbutin, hereinafter referred to as arbutin) is widely used as a cosmetic ingredient in terms of whitening effect, availability, and stability. In the present invention, it is particularly preferably contained.

  Component (a) polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate used in the present invention is a nonionic emulsifier, particularly suitable for a water-in-oil emulsified composition, and also used as an emulsifier in the present invention. It is. Component (a) can be obtained by reacting acid chloride prepared by reacting poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) with a halogenating agent such as thionyl chloride and polyethylene glycol in the presence of an alkali. At this time, if the amount of the acid chloride is increased, a dipolyester can be obtained. If the amount is small, a product having a low acylation rate such as a monoester can be obtained. When used for the component (b) of the present invention, the polyethylene glycol preferably has an average molecular weight of 400 to 6000. On the other hand, poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), which is the other component, is a portion that becomes a hydrophobic group in this essential component, and the polymerization degree is preferably an average molecular weight of 1000 to 4000. Some of such polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearates are already commercially available, and such commercially available products can also be used in the present invention. Among such commercially available products, “Aracel P-135”, which is commercially available from Unikema, is particularly preferable. This is a diester of poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) of polyethylene glycol (average molecular weight 1500) and has an average molecular weight of about 5000. In the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate can be used singly or in combination of two or more.

  Although content of the component (a) used for this invention is not specifically limited, It is 0.3 to 6%, and 1 to 3% is preferable from a viewpoint of an improvement of a usability | use_condition or temporal stability. .

  The polyaspartate of component (b) used in the present invention is already known as a highly effective moisturizing agent, but this time, it is further improved in feeling of use such as skin familiarity, feeling of feeling, and feeling of high elasticity. It is used for the purpose of obtaining a skin effect. The polyaspartate is obtained by polymerizing L-aspartic acid, D-aspartic acid, or a mixture thereof by α or β bonds. The average molecular weight is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1,000 to 100,000, and more preferably 5,000 to 50,000 from the viewpoints of feeling of use and skin effect. As the salt, metal salts such as sodium, potassium and magnesium, alkanolamine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt, basic amino acid salts and the like are used. As a commercial item, Aqua Dew SPA-30 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), which is a 30% aqueous solution of sodium polyaspartate, can be mentioned.

  The content of the component (b) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 10%, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% from the viewpoints of non-stickiness, skin feel, and the like.

  In the present invention, the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic containing hydroquinone glycoside contains a combination of component (a) and component (b), so that the stability over time is high and conventional water-in-oil emulsification. Excellent oil that the skin familiarity and tightness that was a defect of the composition are remarkably improved, and after use, a protective film is formed on the skin, and a moisturizing effect without stickiness and a feeling of skin stickiness can be imparted. A medium water whitening cosmetic can be obtained.

  Further, the present invention can further contain component (c) a fatty acid ester having a branched chain in the molecule. Component (c) is used as an oil agent having an emollient effect with excellent adhesion to the skin and less stickiness, and also as an oil agent that increases the uniformity of the continuous phase and increases the temporal stability of the water-in-oil cosmetic. It is what Specific examples of the component (c) include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, stearyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, decyl isostearate, and isostearate. Examples include lauryl acid, isodecyl isodecanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, and the like. Among these, from the viewpoint of improvement in stickiness and stability over time, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate having two or more branches in the molecule. Etc. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more as required.

  The content of the component (c) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but it may be 10 to 95% in the oily component constituting the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic, and the stability is particularly improved. From this aspect, 20 to 95% is particularly preferable.

  In addition to the components (a) and (b), the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic containing the hydroquinone glycoside of the present invention further contains a component (c), so that the skin fits and feels tight. The emollient effect without any stickiness after use is obtained, which is particularly preferable. Furthermore, the temporal stability of the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition containing hydroquinone glycoside is particularly preferable because it is further improved by combining the component (a) and the component (c).

  In addition to the above components, the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention further includes components used in ordinary cosmetics, surfactants other than component (a), electrolytes, polymer substances, moisturizing ingredients, medicinal ingredients, bactericidal ingredients Agents, preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, antioxidants, pigments, inorganic powders, organic powders, fragrances, cosmetic ingredients, and the like can be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present application.

  The water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention can be obtained by a normal production method, and can be obtained, for example, by a dispersion emulsification method in which an aqueous phase is added to an oil phase and emulsified.

  The form of the water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention is liquid, emulsion, or cream, and its use is for skin care makeup such as emulsion, cream, massage, hand cream, body cream, sunscreen, etc. Examples include makeup, cosmetics such as paints, foundations, makeup bases, control materials, etc., and examples of usage include normal usage, impregnation into non-woven fabrics, etc. It is done.

  Next, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated further in detail, this invention is not restrict | limited at all by these.

Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Water-in-oil whitening cosmetics Water-in-oil whitening cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared by the following production methods, and stability over time and sensory evaluation were evaluated.

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 6 are uniformly dissolved at 70 ° C.
B: Components 7 to 14 are mixed uniformly at 70 ° C.
C: B is added to A and emulsified.

(Evaluation methods)
1. Stability over time Each cosmetic shown in Table 1 was allowed to stand at 5 ° C. and 50 ° C. for 1 month, and the appearance change was observed visually, and the determination was made according to the following criteria.
(Criteria) (Judgment)
No change in appearance is observed. : ◎
Some change in appearance is observed, but no separation tendency is observed. : ○
Either 50 ° C. or 5 ° C. is slightly separated. : △
Either 50 ° C, 5 ° C, or both are clearly separated. : ×

2. Sensory evaluation About the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the following items were evaluated by 10 female professional panels and judged according to the following criteria.

(Evaluation item)
Whether the skin feels good when used (+) or not (-)
Do you feel that there is no stickiness from use to use (+) or not (-)
Do you feel the moisturizing effect is high after use (+) or not (-)
Do you feel that the emollient effect is high after use (+) or not (-)
Do you feel that your skin feels firmer after use (+) or not (-)

(Criteria) (Judgment)
Eight or more people made +: ◎
6 to 7 people made +: ○
3 to 5 people made +: △
Less than 2 people made +: ×
The results obtained by the above evaluation methods are also shown in Table 1.

  As is clear from the evaluation results, Examples 1 to 7 according to the present invention have good temporal stability and good sensory evaluation. On the other hand, in the comparative example, what satisfied all was not obtained.

Example 8 Water-in-oil solid whitening foundation (ingredient) (%)
1. Arbutin (Note 1) 3.0
2. Aqua Dew SPA-30 (Note 2) 1.0
3. Ethanol 5.0
4.1,3-Butylene glycol 5.0
5. Sodium citrate 0.5
6). Perfume appropriate amount 7. Purified water remaining amount 8. Preservative appropriate amount 9. Barium sulfate coated mica titanium 1.5
10. Silicone-coated titanium oxide 7.5
11. Silicone-coated yellow iron oxide 0.4
12 Silicone coated bengara 0.07
13. Silicone-coated black iron oxide 0.01
14 ARASER P-135 (Note 3) 2.0
15. Squalane 1.0
16. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 7.0
17. Isononyl isononanoate 10.0
18. Sucrose fatty acid ester 1.0
19. Candelilla wax 4.0
20. Microcrystalline wax 2.0
21. Tocopherol acetate 0.05
(Note 1) Iwase Kosfa (Note 2) Ajinomoto (Note 3) Unikema

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 8 are uniformly dissolved at 70 ° C.
B: Components 9 to 21 are mixed uniformly at 70 ° C.
C: B is added to A and emulsified.
D: Pour into a container at 70 ° C. and allow to cool after filling.

  The solid water-in-oil type whitening foundation of Example 8 of the present invention obtained as described above has good elongation and skin familiarity during use, and after use there is no stickiness of the skin, moisturizing effect, The skin feels high, has a good makeup effect, and has good stability over time.

Example 9 Whitening Massage Material (Ingredient) (%)
1. Arbutin (Note 1) 5.0
2. Aqua Dew SPA-30 (Note 2) 1.5
3. Methylcellulose 0.02
4). Propylene glycol 5.0
5. Dipropylene glycol 10.0
6). Glycerin 10.0
7). Polyethylene glycol 400 2.0
8). Sodium lactate 0.5
9. dl-Pyrrolidonecarboxylate sodium 1.3
10. Preservative appropriate amount11. Purified water remaining amount 12. ABIL EM90 (Note 3) 2.0
13. ARASER P-135 (Note 4) 0.7
14 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 8.0
15. Macadamia nut oil 2.0
16. Isotridecyl isononanoate 5.0
17. Glyceryl isooctanoate 3.0
18. Organically modified bentonite 1.0
19. Perfume Appropriate amount (Note 1) Iwase Kosfa (Note 2) Ajinomoto (Note 3) Gold Schmidt (Note 4) Unikema

(Production method)
A: Components 1 to 11 are uniformly dissolved at room temperature.
B: Components 12 to 19 are mixed uniformly at room temperature.
C: A is added to B and emulsified.

  The whitening massage material of Example 9 of the present invention obtained as described above is well-familiar and rich in pine surge, and the skin after wiping is not sticky and has a moisturizing effect and a feeling of elasticity. It was high and stability over time was good.

Example 10 Whitening serum for eyes (ingredient) (%)
1. Arbutin (1) 7.0
2. ARASER P-135 (Note 2) 2.0
3. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 10.0
4). Dimethylpolysiloxane (50mm ² / s)
6.0
5. Silicone-treated mica titanium 2.0
6). Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 2.1
7). Aqua Dew SPA-30 (Note 3) 10.0
8). Propylene glycol 5.0
9. Dipropylene glycol 10.0
10. Glycerin 3.0
11. Polyoxyethylene (10E.O.) methyl glucoside
3.0
12 Magnesium ascorbate phosphate 2.0
13. Preservative appropriate amount14. Perfume appropriate amount 15. Remaining amount of purified water (Note 1) Iwase Kosfa (Note 2) Unikema (Note 3) Ajinomoto Co.

(Production method)
A: Components 7 to 15 are uniformly dissolved at room temperature.
B: Components 1 to 6 are mixed uniformly at room temperature.
C: A is added to B and emulsified.

  The whitening cosmetic liquid for Example 10 of the present invention obtained as described above is well-familiar with the skin during use, has no stickiness of the eyes after use, has a high moisturizing effect, and has a high feeling of elasticity. In addition, the stability over time was good.

Claims (4)

In the whitening cosmetic containing hydroquinone glycoside, the following components (a), (b);
(A) A polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate (b) a polyaspartate, a water-in-oil whitening cosmetic characterized by comprising: The content of component (a) polyoxyethylene dipolyhydroxystearate and component (b) polyaspartate is
Component (a) 0.3-6 mass%
Component (b) 0.01-10 mass%
The water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein The water-in-oil whitening cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a fatty acid ester having a branched chain in the component (c) molecule. Component (c) Fatty acid ester which has a branched chain in a molecule | numerator is contained in 10-95 mass% in the oil-based component of water-in-oil whitening cosmetics, The any one of Claims 1-3 characterized by the above-mentioned. The water-in-oil whitening cosmetic composition described in 1.