JP4731301B2 - Moisturizer and cosmetics containing the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a humectant having excellent keratin moisture content retention ability and good stability, and a cosmetic containing the same.

Conventionally, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, organic acids, amino acids, polymers and the like are known as substances having a moisturizing action, and these are blended in cosmetics and the like (for example, see Non-Patent Document 1). On the other hand, using a function of keratin intercellular lipid, a similar substance of ceramide, which is the main component thereof, is blended in cosmetics (see Non-Patent Document 2). However, these moisturizers have problems such as insufficient effects and a decrease in feeling of use when used in a certain amount or more.
On the other hand, the present inventors have found that a lamellar structure containing a fatty acid monoglyceride as a main constituent has an excellent moisturizing effect and has already reported (see Patent Documents 1 and 2). In addition, it has already been reported that by incorporating vitamin A, ascorbic acid and the like in the lamellar structure, in addition to the moisturizing effect, the effect of each of the encapsulated components can be improved (Patent Documents 3 and 4). reference).
Furthermore, it has already been reported that a lamellar structure comprising a fatty acid monoglyceride as a main constituent activates transglutaminase in the skin (see Patent Document 5).
However, a lamellar structure composed mainly of a fatty acid monoglyceride, when stored for a long time as a lamellar structure as a raw material before blending into a product, causes the structure to collapse over time and cause a decrease in the moisturizing effect. For this reason, care must be taken in handling the raw material lamellar structure such as a limited storage period. For this reason, the present inventors have conducted various studies in order to improve the temporal stability of the lamella structure. As a result, a technique for improving the temporal stability by incorporating an alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether and / or a water-soluble polymer was found and reported (see Patent Document 6).
JP-A-4-338311 JP 2005-0479904 A JP 2000-239140 A JP 2002-145751 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-335652 JP-A-8-59449 Sekine Shigeru et al., Cosmetics Handbook, Nippon Chemicals Co., Ltd., p445-448, 1996. J. Soc. Cosmet. Japan. Vol. 27, No. 3. 1993

However, even with the above technology, the stability over time is not fully satisfactory under various temperature storage, such as high temperatures in summer and low temperatures in winter, and technical development to further improve the stability over time is not possible. It was desired.
Moreover, although it has disclosed about mix | blending a polyglycerol fatty acid ester with cosmetics with a lamellar structure as surfactant or a moisturizer (patent documents 4 and 5), as a constituent lipid of a lamellar structure with a fatty acid monoglyceride It has not yet been studied for use, and it has not been known to improve stability over time.

As a result of diligent research to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor is particularly excellent in aging stability of a humectant containing a dispersion of a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglycerides, sterols, and polyglycerin fatty acid esters as main components. As a result, the present invention has been completed.

That is, this invention provides the moisturizer containing the dispersion liquid of the lamellar structure which has a fatty acid monoglyceride, sterols, and polyglyceryl fatty acid ester as a main component, and the cosmetics containing this moisturizer.

  The moisturizing agent of the present invention has an excellent ability to maintain keratin water content and good stability, and if it is blended, a cosmetic having an excellent moisturizing action and a good feeling of use can be obtained.

As the fatty acid monoglyceride that is one of the main components of the lamellar structure used in the present invention, a monoglyceride of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms is preferable. Specifically, glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl monopalmitate are preferable.
These monoglycerides may be used in combination of two or more.

Examples of the sterols used in the present invention include cholesterol, cholestanol, sitosterol, β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, campestanol, desmostosterol, isofucosterol, clerolosterol, and cryoasterol. , Latosterol, fungisterol, episterol, 22-dehydrostigmasterol, 22-dihydrospinasterol, spinasterol, avenasterol, chondirasterol and other animal and plant sterols, timosterol, ascosterol, fecosterol, ergo Examples include sterols derived from microorganisms such as sterol and 14-dehydroergosterol. Among these, cholesterol is particularly preferable because it improves the stability of the lamellar structure and is easy to obtain industrial products.
The sterols may be used alone or in combination of two or more.

The polyglycerol fatty acid ester used in the present invention is preferably one having a polyglycerol chain of 2 to 10 mol, particularly 2 to 3 mol. The fatty acid chain is preferably a saturated or unsaturated or / and branched fatty acid chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and these suitable polyglycerol chains and saturated or unsaturated or / and branched chains. Any combination of fatty acid chains is particularly preferred. For example, poly (2-10) glycerol monostearate, poly (2-10) glycerol monopalmitate, poly (2-10) glycerol monomyristate, poly (2-10) glycerol monolaurate, poly (2- 10) Glycerin monocaprate, poly (2-10) glycerol monocaprylate, poly (2-10) glycerol monoisostearate, poly (2-10) glycerol distearate, poly (2-10) glycerol tristearate , Poly (2 to 10) glycerol tetrastearate, poly (2 to 10) glyceryl condensed ricinoleate, and the like, and diglycerol monomyristate and / or diglycerol monolaurate are preferable. These polyglycerin fatty acid esters may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
The lamellar structure used in the present invention has three main components, the fatty acid monoglyceride, the sterols, and the polyglycerol fatty acid ester. Here, the main constituent component means that these three types occupy 70% by weight or more of the constituent components excluding the aqueous phase component of the lamellar structure, and particularly those that occupy 80% by weight. In addition, the lamellar structure used in the present invention requires the above-mentioned three types, and the lamellar structure containing the above three types as a constituent compared to a lamellar structure composed only of fatty acid monoglycerides and sterols, The stability over time is particularly excellent.

The concentration of the fatty acid monoglyceride is preferably 0.01 to 50% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 30% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight in the dispersion of the lamellar structure. The concentration of sterols is preferably 0.003 to 34% by weight, more preferably 0.15 to 20% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.03 to 14% by weight. The concentration of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably 0.001 to 50% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 30% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight. The weight ratio of the fatty acid monoglyceride, sterols and polyglycerin fatty acid ester may be appropriately adjusted according to the dosage form, but the weight ratio of fatty acid monoglyceride: sterols + polyglycerin fatty acid ester = 10: 1 to 1: 1 Is preferably blended at a weight ratio of 10: 4 to 3: 5. In this case, the weight ratio of sterols to polyglycerol fatty acid ester is sterols: polyglycerol fatty acid ester = 3: 1 to 1: 3, preferably sterols: polyglycerol fatty acid ester = 3: 1 to 3: 5. It is preferable.

  The form of the lamella structure is not particularly limited, but it is desirable that the form is the same as that of the liposome, that is, the lamella structure is closed. The closed lamellar structure is more preferably a multilamellar structure.

The method for preparing the dispersion of the lamella structure is not particularly limited. For example, after heating and melting the fatty acid monoglyceride, sterols and polyglycerin fatty acid ester, or the oil phase mixture containing these, the same degree The dispersion of the lamellar structure used in the present invention can be prepared by adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase maintained at the temperature and physically stirring to disperse the oil phase in the aqueous phase. The temperature of the oil phase and aqueous phase at this time is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately adjusted between room temperature and 100 ° C. depending on the type of fatty acid monoglyceride and other oil phase compositions. The physical dispersion method is not particularly limited. For example, an ultrasonic emulsifying device, an ultrahigh pressure emulsifying device (a nanomizer, a microfluidizer, a manton gorin homogenizer, an OHL type device, etc.), a homogenizer, a homomixer, a flow jet mixer, a colloid mill It is preferable to use a fine particle device such as Alternatively, prepare fatty acid monoglycerides, sterols and polyglycerin fatty acid esters or oil phase mixtures containing these in organic solvents such as dichloromethane, chloroform, acetone, etc. The dispersion of the lamellar structure used in the present invention can also be prepared by depositing the lipid layer and adding water or an appropriate aqueous solution thereto and mixing them. Of the above preparation methods, the former method is preferred from the viewpoint of industrial production.

As a more specific method, for example, a) fatty acid monoglyceride, sterols, batyl alcohol, and polyglycerol fatty acid ester are dissolved by heating (60 to 85 ° C.). b) Methyl paraoxybenzoate is added to purified water and dissolved by heating (60 to 85 ° C.). While stirring with a homomixer, add a) to b) and stir for 1 minute. Then, the method of adding the water-soluble polymer melt | dissolved in the purified water, cooling to room temperature, and obtaining the dispersion liquid of a lamella structure is mentioned.

  The moisturizing agent of the present invention can be blended with alcohols, oily components, polymers, preservatives, fragrances, surfactants, lactic acid bacteria culture solution and the like as long as the lamellar structure is not destroyed.

  The blending amount of the moisturizing agent of the present invention in the cosmetic is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.01 to 50% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 30% by weight, more preferably 0. 1 to 20% by weight is preferred.

In addition, the moisturizing agent of the present invention is blended as an active ingredient in cosmetics. At this time, water, alcohols, oil components, whitening components, Molecular substances, preservatives, fragrances, pigments and the like can be blended. In addition, other moisturizing components such as keratinocyte lipids, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, and lactic acid bacteria culture solution can be blended. In addition, surfactant can be mix | blended as needed.

In order to prepare the cosmetic of the present invention, it is usually sufficient to disperse the humectant and other components in water or the like. Moreover, you may prepare by preparing a moisturizer by the said method and mix | blending another component with the obtained lamellar structure dispersion liquid.
As a kind of this invention cosmetics, skin cosmetics, such as a lotion, the essence for cosmetics, a milky lotion, and cream, are mentioned as a preferable thing.

  EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited to this.

Test example 1
a) Fatty acid monoglyceride (5.0 g), cholesterol (0.5 to 2.1 g) and batyl alcohol (1.5 g) are mixed and dissolved by heating at 60 to 80 ° C.
b) Methyl paraoxybenzoate (0.1 g) and CaCl ₂ .2H ₂ O (0.1 g) are added to purified water (amount to 100 g as a whole) and dissolved by heating at 60 to 80 ° C.
While stirring with a polytron homogenizer (manufactured by Kinematica, polytron homogenizer (Kinematica PT10 / 35)), a) is added to b) and stirred at 60 ° C. for 1 minute. Thereafter, 10.0 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone (10% aqueous solution) was added as a water-soluble polymer and cooled to obtain a dispersion of a lamellar structure.
The obtained dispersion of the lamellar structure was stored at room temperature for 48 days, the stability was observed with a polarizing microscope, and the presence or absence of a dark cross was used as an index to determine according to the following evaluation criteria. The results are shown in Table 1.

Evaluation criteria of stability 4: Maintaining lamellar structure of 75% or more and 100% or less 3: Maintaining lamellar structure of 50% or more and less than 75% 2: Maintaining lamellar structure of 25% or more and less than 50% 1: Maintaining lamellar structure of 0% or more and less than 25%

  From the results in Table 1, it can be seen that those containing no polyglycerin fatty acid ester are difficult to maintain a lamellar structure, and those having a low cholesterol content are particularly unstable.

Test example 2
a) Fatty acid monoglyceride (5.0 g), cholesterol (2.1 g), batyl alcohol (1.5 g), diglycerin monomyristate or diglycerin monolaurate (0 to 2.0 g) are dissolved by heating (80 ° C.).
b) Methyl paraoxybenzoate (0.1 g) is added to purified water (amount that makes the whole 100 g), and dissolved by heating (80 ° C.).
While stirring with a polytron homogenizer (manufactured by Kinematica, polytron homogenizer (Kinematica PT10 / 35)), a) is added to b) and stirred at 80 ° C. for 1 minute. Thereafter, 10.0 g of polyvinylpyrrolidone (10% aqueous solution) was added as a water-soluble polymer and cooled to obtain a dispersion of a lamellar structure.
The obtained dispersion of the lamellar structure was stored at each temperature for 3 months, and the stability was observed with a polarizing microscope and judged according to the above evaluation criteria. The results are shown in Tables 2-3.

  From the results of Tables 2 and 3, it can be seen that when a polyglycerol fatty acid ester is added in addition to fatty acid monoglycerides and cholesterols, the lamella structure is stabilized, and the storage stability of the lamella structure increases as the amount of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester increases.

Test example 3
Hairless mice were irradiated with 40 mJ / cm ² / day of ultraviolet light for 4 days, and samples were applied to each 100 μl back skin immediately after each irradiation. After 5 days, the conductance was measured using SKICON-200 (IBS) for the stratum corneum moisture content. The measurement was carried out in a constant temperature and humidity breeding room at a temperature of 25 ± 2 ° C. and a humidity of 55 ± 10%. Regarding wrinkles, the replica collected from the back skin was obliquely illuminated at an angle of 30 degrees, and the resulting shadow was image-processed (WinRoof: Mitani Corporation) for analysis. The analysis parameter was expressed as an area ratio (%) occupied by wrinkles with respect to 1 cm ² of measured skin. Each was compared with the sample uncoated. Table 4 shows sample formulations and experimental results.

From the results of Table 4, it can be seen that a dispersion of a lamellar structure containing a fatty acid monoglyceride, cholesterol, and polyglycerin fatty acid ester has a high moisturizing effect and wrinkle improving effect.

Example 11 Toner lotion 8 is heated and dissolved, then mixed with 12, 14, 17 and added to 2. Further, 1, 3 to 7, 9 to 11, 13, and 16 are sequentially added and dissolved. Finally, the pH was adjusted to 6.0 using 15 to obtain a lotion.
1: Composition of Example 5.00 (mass%)
2: Purified water Remaining 3: Glycerin 10.00
4: 1,3-butylene glycol 1.00
5: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.05
6: Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.50
7: Na hyaluronate (0.6% aqueous solution) 10.00
8: Polyoxyethylene (40) hydrogenated castor oil 2.50
9: Xanthan gum 0.05
10: Whey (2) 15.00
11: Edetate disodium 0.05
12: dl-α-tocopherol acetate 0.10
13: Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.10
14: Retinol palmitate 0.10
15: Sodium hydroxide 0.20
16: Ethanol 5.00
17: Fragrance 0.20

Example 12 Emulsion Of the following components, the oil phase components (12 to 19) are dissolved by heating, and the water phase components (2 to 9, 11) are also dissolved by heating. The oil phase is added to the heated aqueous phase and stirred with a homogenizer, and then alkali (10) is added and cooled. During the cooling, the additives (1, 20) were added and mixed to obtain an emulsion.
1: Composition of Example 7 3.00 (mass%)
2: Purified water Remainder 3: Acrylic acid alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.50
4: 1,3-butylene glycol 1.50
5: Methyl paraoxybenzoate 0.10
6: Na hyaluronate (0.6% aqueous solution) 10.00
7: Xanthan gum 0.05
8: Ascorbic acid-2-glucoside 2.00
9: Whey (2) 10.00
10: Potassium hydroxide 0.30
11: Glycerin 5.00
12: Polyoxyethylene monostearate (20) Sorbitan 2.00
13: Glycerin monostearate 1.50
14: Natural vitamin E 0.001
15: Retinol palmitate 0.20
16: Squalane 1.00
17: Behenyl alcohol 2.50
18: dl-α-tocopherol acetate 0.05
19: Stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.10
20: Fragrance 0.20

Example 13 Cream Of the following components, the oil phase components (8, 13 to 20) are dissolved by heating, and the water phase components (2 to 7, 9, 10, and 12) are also dissolved by heating. The oil phase is charged into the heated aqueous phase and stirred with a homogenizer, and then alkali (11) is charged and cooled. During the cooling, the additives (1, 2, 22, 22) were added and mixed to obtain a cream.
1: Composition of Example 5.00 (mass%)
2: Purified water, remaining 3: 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphocholine
Butyl methacrylate copolymer 3.50
4: Alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.40
5: Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.30
6: Edetate disodium 0.20
7: 1,2-pentanediol 1.50
8: Butyl paraoxybenzoate 0.01
9: Sodium hyaluronate solution (0.6% aqueous solution) 10.00
10: Whey (2) 5.00
11: Sodium hydroxide 0.40
12: Glycerin 5.00
13: Polyoxyethylene (40) hydrogenated castor oil 0.50
14: Polyoxyethylene monostearate (40)
Glycol 1.50
15: Squalane 5.00
16: Behenyl alcohol 3.00
17: Retinol palmitate 0.10
18: dl-α-tocopherol acetate 0.50
19: Stearyl glycyrrhetinate 0.10
20: Liquid paraffin 3.00
21: Perfume 0.03
22: Ethanol 5.00
All of the obtained cosmetics were good in feeling of use, storage stability and the like.

The moisturizing agent of the present invention has an excellent ability to maintain keratin water content and good stability because the lamella structure is stably maintained, and if this is blended, it has an excellent moisturizing effect and good usability. A fee is obtained.

Claims (5)

(A) monoglyceride of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms , (B) cholesterol , (C) diglycerin fatty acid ester having a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid chain having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and (D) water A humectant containing a dispersion of a lamellar structure as a constituent component ,
In the dispersion of the lamella structure, (A) fatty acid monoglyceride is 0.1 to 20% by weight, (B) cholesterol is 0.03 to 14% by weight, and (C) diglycerin fatty acid ester is 0.01 to 20% by weight. Contains moisturizer. The humectant according to claim 1 , wherein the dispersion of the lamella structure further contains batyl alcohol . The humectant according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the diglycerol fatty acid ester is diglycerol monomyristate and / or diglycerol monolaurate. The dispersion liquid of lamellar structure contains 0.1 to 20% by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride, 0.03 to 14% by weight of cholesterol, and 1 to 20% by weight of diglycerin fatty acid ester. Moisturizer according to item. Cosmetics containing the moisturizer of any one of Claims 1-4 .