JP5539785B2 - Moisturizer and cosmetics containing the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a humectant having excellent keratin moisture content retention ability and good stability, and a cosmetic containing the same.

Conventionally, polyhydric alcohols, saccharides, organic acids, amino acids, polymers, mucopolysaccharides, etc. are known as substances having a moisturizing action, and these are changes in skin properties such as wrinkles and dullness associated with ultraviolet rays and aging. It is blended in cosmetics and the like for the purpose of improving.
However, these moisturizing agents have problems such as insufficient moisturizing effect and a decrease in feeling of use when used in a certain amount or more.

On the other hand, as an alternative to these substances, a keratin intercellular lipid and the like are also blended (see Patent Document 1).
Since this keratin intercellular lipid is thought to contribute to the barrier function by constituting a lamellar structure in living skin, artificially preparing a lamellar structure using phospholipids, etc. A method of using this for various cosmetics has been proposed. In addition, using the function of keratin intercellular lipid, the ceramide-like substance, which is the main component, is blended in cosmetics as a moisturizing agent.

The present applicant has also found that a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component has an excellent moisturizing effect, and has already reported a moisturizing agent containing this as an active ingredient (see Patent Document 2).
However, lamellar structures containing fatty acid monoglycerides as the main component, if stored for a long period of time as a raw material before blending into the product, the particles become unstable due to destabilization of the lamellar structure and the difference in density between the dispersed phase and the dispersion medium. It has a characteristic that the storage stability is lower than that of a lamellar structure composed of a general phospholipid or the like. Since the collapse of the lamella structure causes a decrease in the moisturizing effect, care must be taken in handling the raw lamella structure, for example, the storage period is limited. Therefore, the present inventors conducted various studies to improve the temporal stability of the lamellar structure, found a stabilization technique using an alkyl or alkenyl glycerine ether, a water-soluble polymer or a polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and have already reported it. (See Patent Documents 3 and 4).
However, even with these stabilization techniques, the stability of the lamella structure may not always be sufficient, and a technique for further stabilizing the lamella structure as a cosmetic raw material has been demanded.

JP 63-192704 A Japanese Patent No. 2606761 Japanese Patent No. 3093930 JP 2007-153801 A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a humectant containing a lamellar structure comprising a fatty acid monoglyceride having a good keratin water content maintaining ability and improved stability over time, and a cosmetic containing the same. It is in.

  As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the present inventors have prevented the destruction of the lamella structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent by blending a sucrose fatty acid ester having a specific HLB value and carbon number of the constituent fatty acid. The present invention has been completed by finding that the stability over time of the lamellar structure is improved.

  That is, the present invention provides a humectant containing a lamellar structure comprising fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent and a sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 5 to 7 and a constituent fatty acid having 18 or more carbon atoms. is there.

  Moreover, this invention provides the cosmetics containing this moisturizer.

  The moisturizing agent of the present invention has an excellent ability to maintain keratin water content and is excellent in stability over time of a lamellar structure. Can be obtained.

  As the fatty acid monoglyceride which is a constituent component of the lamellar structure used in the present invention, a monoglyceride of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms can be mentioned as a preferable one. Specific examples include caprylic acid monoglyceride, capric acid monoglyceride, lauric acid monoglyceride, myristic acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and the like. These fatty acid monoglycerides may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among them, as fatty acid monoglyceride, a combination of palmitic acid monoglyceride and stearic acid monoglyceride in a ratio of 4: 6 to 2: 8 is preferable because a lamellar structure is easily formed.

In order to improve the shape stability of the lamellar structure, it is preferable to add sterols to the humectant of the present invention. Examples of sterols used here include cholesterol, cholestanol, sitosterol, β-sitosterol, stigmasterol, stigmasteranol, campesterol, campestanol, desmostosterol, isofucosterol, clerolosterol, cryonasterol, lato Animal sterols such as sterols, fungisterols, episterols, 2,2-dehydrostigmasterol, 2,2-dihydrospinasterols, spinasterols, avenasterols, chondirasterols; timosterols, ascostosterols, fecosterols , And sterols derived from microorganisms such as ergosterol and 1,4-dehydroergosterol. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Among them, phytosterol which is a mixture of cholesterol and β-sitosterol, stigmasterol and campesterol is particularly preferable.
The amount of the sterols used is not particularly limited and may be set within a preferable range as appropriate. From the viewpoint of the stability of the lamella structure, 1 part by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride that is a constituent component of the lamella structure is used. On the other hand, it is preferably 0.05 to 2.0 parts by weight, particularly preferably about 0.1 to 1.0 parts by weight.

In the present invention, the lamellar structure comprises the fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component, but other components may be further blended for the purpose of improving the stability of structure and quality (including functionality). it can. Examples of such components include alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ethers having an ether bond of 1 to 3 alkyl groups or alkenyl groups having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, specifically monopalmitic glycerin ether, monostearyl glycerin ether, And monooleyl glycerin ether. Further, a water-soluble polymer, specifically, one or more (co) polymers selected from vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, polyethylene glycol, celluloses, and the like are also blended. be able to. Furthermore, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, specifically POE (40) hydrogenated castor oil, POE (50) hydrogenated castor oil, POE (60) hydrogenated castor oil, POE (80) hydrogenated castor oil or POE (100) hydrogenated castor oil Oil (both manufactured by Nikko Chemicals) can also be blended.
The blending amount of these components may be set appropriately within a preferable range. For example, in the case of an alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether, 0.05 part by weight to 2.0 parts by weight with respect to 1 part by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component. It is preferable that the amount be about 0.1 parts by weight, more preferably 0.1 parts by weight to 1.0 part by weight. The blending amount of the water-soluble polymer is 0.05 to 1.0 part by weight, and further 0.1 to 0.5 part by weight with respect to 1 part by weight of the fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component. Is preferred. The compounding amount of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is about 0.01 part by weight to 1.0 part by weight, and further about 0.02 part by weight to 0.5 part by weight with respect to 1 part by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component. It is preferable to do.

In the present invention, the lamellar structure is prepared from the above-described fatty acid monoglyceride or an oil phase mixture containing the fatty acid monoglyceride. As a method for preparing a dispersion of a lamella structure, for example, a fatty acid monoglyceride or an oil phase mixture containing the fatty acid monoglyceride is heated and melt-mixed, and then an aqueous phase mixture (preservative, etc.) maintained at the same temperature is dissolved. Purified water) is added and physically stirred to disperse the oil phase in the aqueous phase.
As heating temperature at this time, 45 to 100 degreeC is preferable, and 50 to 95 degreeC is especially preferable. In addition, the physical stirring here may be performed using existing equipment. For example, an ultrasonic emulsification apparatus, a high-pressure uniform dispersion apparatus, a nanomizer, a homomixer, a homogenizer, a colloid mill, and a high-speed stirrer. And the like. In addition, the conditions of physical stirring etc. are not restrict | limited in particular, What is necessary is just to carry out according to a conventional method.

  Further, as a method other than the above, a fatty acid monoglyceride or an oil phase mixture containing the same is dissolved in an organic solvent, then the solvent is distilled to deposit a fat layer, and an aqueous phase mixture is added thereto, mixed and heated, There is also a method of preparing a lamellar structure by irradiating ultrasonic waves. Examples of the organic solvent used at this time include dichloromethane, chloroform, acetone, methanol and the like.

  Although any of the above methods can prepare a dispersion of a lamella structure, the former method is preferably used to efficiently prepare a lamella structure on an industrial scale. The dispersion of the lamellar structure obtained in this manner is a closed state in which the lamellar phase composed of an oil phase and an aqueous phase is not plate-like, as in the case of liposomes, because of the characteristics of the fatty acid monoglyceride that is a constituent component. A structure in which a multi-shaped circle or polygon composed of a plurality of oil phases and aqueous phases is dispersed in an aqueous solution.

The sucrose fatty acid ester used in the present invention is preferably sucrose distearate having an HLB value of 5 to 7 and a constituent fatty acid having 18 or more carbon atoms, specifically an HLB value of 5 to 7. . In the present invention, the HLB value is, for example, “emulsification technology and development of emulsifier” (1998, published by CMC Publishing Co., Ltd.) p. It calculates | requires by following Formula by the measuring method of HLB by the emulsification test of the mixture with the emulsifier B known for HLB described in 58-59.
HLBo = (Wa × HLBa + Wb × HLBb) / (Wa + Wb)
Wa:% by weight of sucrose fatty acid ester
Wb:% by weight of emulsifier B known to HLB
HLBa: HLB value of sucrose fatty acid ester HLBb: HLB value of emulsifier B known in HLB HLBo: required HLB value of oil to be emulsified Here, Wa and Wb use a blending ratio in the case of showing an optimal emulsified state. As the known emulsifier, a nonionic emulsifier of HLB 9 or higher is used, and examples thereof include polyoxyethylene sorbitan monostearate (20EO) (HLB 14.9). Further, as the oil agent to be emulsified, general hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, and the like are used, and for example, liquid paraffin (required HLB 10) is exemplified.

  The amount of sucrose fatty acid ester added may be suitably set within a preferable range, but is preferably 0.02 to 0.3 parts by weight with respect to 1 part by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride that is a component of the lamellar structure, Furthermore, it is preferable to set it as 0.04-0.3 weight part, especially 0.04-0.2 weight part.

  The moisturizing agent of the present invention can be prepared by preparing a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component and then mixing the sucrose fatty acid ester with other components. In order to obtain a moisturizing agent having excellent properties, an oil phase mixture containing a fatty acid monoglyceride and a sucrose fatty acid ester is prepared, and this oil phase mixture is formed into a lamellar structure according to the above method, and this is mixed with other components. A humectant is preferred.

  In addition, the lamellar structure in the present invention may be encapsulated or covered with a fat-soluble component having a function that has a useful effect on the properties of the skin. These fat-soluble components include retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, vitamin A, α-tocopherol or its derivatives DL-α-tocopherol acetate, DL-α-tocopherol succinate. Vitamin E esters such as DL-α-tocopherol calcium succinate, DL-α-tocopherol nicotinate, DL-α-tocopherol linoleate, etc., ascorbyl stearate which is a fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C which is a water-soluble vitamin, palmitic Examples include esters of glycyrrhetic acid such as fatty acid ascorbyl such as ascorbyl acid and ascorbyl dipalmate, glycyrrhetinic acid or stearyl glycyrrhetic acid that is a derivative thereof.

  The lamella structure thus obtained has a moisturizing action based on an excellent ability to retain keratin water content, and since the lamella structure is stable even when stored for a long time, the moisturizing effect can be obtained by blending it. Excellent quality and stable cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, therapeutic skin external preparations and the like. For example, the humectant of the present invention includes basic cosmetics such as lotions, emulsions, creams, packs, shampoos, rinses, etc. together with various auxiliary materials generally used within the range that does not interfere with the effects of the present invention. , Treatments, hair tonics, hair liquids, hair creams, hair milk and other hair products, bath cosmetics such as baths and soaps, makeup cosmetics such as foundations, lipsticks, mascara and eye shadows, special cosmetics such as sunscreens, etc. Various forms can be adopted.

  Secondary materials that can be used at this time include water, alcohols, oil and fat ingredients, surfactants, thickeners, antioxidants, chelating agents, pH adjusters, phospholipids, whitening ingredients, UV absorbers / scattering agents, amino acids, Examples thereof include polymer substances, foaming agents, pigments, preservatives, plant extracts, cultured lactic acid bacteria or processed products thereof, fragrances, and pigments. The amount of the moisturizing agent of the present invention added to the cosmetic is not particularly limited, but the total amount of the lamellar structure and the sucrose fatty acid ester is 0.01 to 50% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 30% by weight based on the total amount of the product. In particular, the content is preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is demonstrated further in detail, this invention is not restrict | limited to these Examples at all.

Example 1 (Evaluation of stability over time)
According to the prescription shown in Table 1, fatty acid monoglyceride, cholesterol, batyl alcohol, sucrose fatty acid ester, and 1,3-butylene glycol were heated, mixed and dissolved at about 70 to 95 ° C. to prepare an oil phase mixture a). did. On the other hand, methyl paraoxybenzoate was heated and mixed and dissolved at about 70 to 80 ° C. in purified water to prepare an aqueous phase b).
While stirring, the aqueous phase b) was added in small portions to the oil phase mixture a). Thereafter, a water-soluble polymer (polyvinyl pyrrolidone) dissolved in purified water was further added and cooled to obtain a skin external preparation containing a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent.
The properties (tissue image) of the obtained external preparation for skin were confirmed using a polarizing microscope with the presence or absence of a dark cross and the particle shape as indices, and the determination was made based on the following indices. The results are shown in Table 3.

Criteria for evaluating properties of lamellar structure A: Lamellar structure is confirmed in all particles.
○: Some are not lamellar structures.
Δ to ○: The lamellar particles are the majority, but collapse is observed.
Δ: Many lamellar particles collapsed.
X: Almost no lamella particles are observed.

  From the results of Table 3, the use of sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 5 or 7, the majority of lamellar particles are retained in the cosmetic after storage under all storage conditions, and fatty acid monoglyceride is a constituent component. The aging stability effect of the shape of the lamellar structure was confirmed. A score of Δ˜ ○ under all these storage conditions is very suitable for use as a skin external preparation from the viewpoint of stability.

Example 2
According to the formulation shown in Table 4, adjustment was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a skin external preparation containing a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component.
About the obtained skin external preparation, it evaluated by the same index as Example 1. The results are shown in Table 6.

  From the results of Table 6, by using a sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 5, most of the lamellar particles are retained in the cosmetic after storage under all storage conditions, and the fatty acid monoglyceride is a constituent component. It can be seen that the stability over time of the shape of the lamella structure is improved.

Example 3 (Amount of sucrose fatty acid ester)
According to the formulation shown in Table 7, adjustment was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a skin external preparation containing a lamellar structure containing fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component.
About the obtained skin external preparation, it evaluated by the same index as Example 1. The results are shown in Table 9.

  From the results in Table 9, the sucrose fatty acid ester content is 0.04 to 0.3 parts by weight with respect to 1 part by weight of fatty acid monoglyceride as a constituent component of the lamella structure, and the stability over time of the lamella structure is improved. It was confirmed that the stability over time of the lamellar structure was further improved at 0.04 to 0.2 parts by weight.

Claims (4)

A lamellar structure comprising a fatty acid monoglyceride whose constituent fatty acid is a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and a sucrose fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 5 to 7 and a constituent fatty acid having 18 or more carbon atoms A humectant containing the lamella structure, wherein the lamellar structure is prepared from an oil phase mixture containing 0.04 to 0.2 parts by weight of the sucrose fatty acid ester with respect to 1 part by weight of the fatty acid monoglyceride. Moisturizing agent . Sucrose fatty acid esters, moisturizing agent according to claim 1, wherein the HLB value of from 5 7 sucrose distearate. Furthermore, the humectant of Claim 1 or 2 containing sterols. Cosmetics containing the moisturizer according to any one of claims 1 to 3 .