JP3093930B2 - Moisturizer and cosmetics containing it - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a humectant having excellent keratin water content maintaining ability and good stability, and a cosmetic containing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Hitherto, polyhydric alcohols, organic acids, amino acids, mucopolysaccharides and the like having a wetting function have been known as substances having a moisturizing action, and these have been blended in cosmetics and the like. On the other hand, using a function of the keratinocyte intercellular lipid, an analogous substance of ceramide, which is a main component thereof, has been blended into cosmetics as a humectant. On the other hand, the present inventors have previously found that a lamellar structure containing a fatty acid monoglyceride as a main component has an excellent moisturizing effect, and filed a patent application (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-338111).

[0003]

However, subsequent studies have shown that the lamellar structure containing the above-mentioned fatty acid monoglyceride as a main component is likely to collide with the liquid crystal particles when stored for a long period of time under high temperature conditions because the Brownian motion of the liquid crystal particles becomes active. It has been found that such interactions occur, and aggregation of particles occurs. On the other hand, it was found that when stored for a long time under low temperature conditions, a phenomenon such as a phase transition from liquid crystal to crystal was observed. Since the destruction of the lamellar structure causes a decrease in the moisturizing effect, the development of a moisturizer with improved stability and a cosmetic containing the same have been desired.

[0004]

Under these circumstances, the present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems. As a result, the phase transition at low temperature of the lamellar structure formed by fatty acid monoglyceride is caused by alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether. It can be prevented by blending, and the interaction of particles at high temperature can be prevented by blending a water-soluble polymer, and if these are blended alone or in combination, they have excellent moisturizing action,
In addition, they have found that cosmetics with high stability and high safety can be obtained, and have completed the present invention.

That is, the present invention provides a lamella structure containing a fatty acid monoglyceride as a main component, and a humectant containing an alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether.

The fatty acid monoglyceride which is a main component of the lamellar structure used in the present invention has 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferred are monoglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. These monoglycerides may be used in combination of two or more. Further, it is particularly preferable to mix cholesterol in order to improve the stability of the lamellar structure. The amount of the cholesterol to be added is preferably 1 to 100% by weight (hereinafter simply referred to as "%"), particularly preferably 5 to 25%, based on the fatty acid monoglyceride.

[0007] The form of the lamellar structure is not particularly limited, but is more preferably the same form as the liposome, that is, the form in which the lamellar structure is closed. Further, it is more preferable that such a closed lamella structure has a multi-lamella structure, not a unilamella structure.

The preparation of such a structure is carried out by physically stirring and dispersing the fatty acid monoglyceride-containing solution. Here, the physical dispersion includes, for example, an ultrasonic emulsifier, an ultrahigh-pressure emulsifier (eg, a nanomizer, a microfluidizer, a Menton-Gaulin homogenizer, O
It is preferable to use an atomizing device such as an HL type device), a homogenizer, a flow jet mixer, and a colloid mill. Further, the fatty acid monoglyceride-containing solution is preferably a solution, and the concentration of the monoglyceride is 0.001 to 0.001.
About 50% is preferable. Further, the solution may be dried and used as a powder.

In order to efficiently obtain a large-diameter, closed-form lamellar structure, it is preferable to carry out stirring in the presence of calcium ions or lanthanum ions. As such a calcium ion or lanthanum ion donor, it is preferable to use a calcium halide such as calcium chloride or calcium bromide or a lanthanum halide. The concentration of calcium ions or lanthanum ions is preferably 0.001 to 40% based on the fatty acid monoglyceride.

The alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether compounded in the humectant of the present invention has a remarkable effect in preventing the phase transition of the lamellar structure at a low temperature. Examples of the alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether include compounds in which glycerin is ether-bonded with 1 to 3 alkyl or alkenyl groups having 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Among them, monopalmityl glycerin ether, monostearyl glycerin ether, monooleyl Mono-alkyl or mono-alkenyl glycerin ethers such as glycerin ether are preferred.

The addition amount of the alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether is 1 to 100 based on the monoglyceride.
%, Particularly preferably 10 to 70%. If the amount is less than 1%, the effect is insufficient, and if it exceeds 100%, a lamellar structure may not be easily formed.

Further, by adding a water-soluble polymer to the humectant of the present invention, the interaction of particles at high temperature can be prevented. Examples of the water-soluble polymer include one or more (co) polymers selected from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, polyethylene glycol, and celluloses. Specifically, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP; molecular weight of 6,000 to 1.2 million), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA; molecular weight of 6,000 to 1.2 million),
Copolymer of vinyl alcohol and vinyl acetate (PVA / V
A) (vinyl alcohol: vinyl acetate = 30 to 100:
0-70 (weight ratio, the same applies hereinafter); molecular weight 6,000-120
10,000), a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate (PV
P / VA) (vinylpyrrolidone: vinyl acetate = 100-
30: 0 to 70; molecular weight of 6,000 to 1.2 million), copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl alcohol (PVP / PV
A) (Vinylpyrrolidone: vinyl alcohol = 100 to
0: 0 to 100; molecular weight of 6,000 to 1.2 million), copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylic acid (PVP / DAM) (vinylpyrrolidone: dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylic acid = 100 to 30: 0 to 7)
0; molecular weight of 6,000 to 1.2 million), polyethylene glycol, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and the like.

The amount of the water-soluble polymer to be added is preferably 0.1% or more, particularly preferably 1 to 1000%, based on monoglyceride. If the amount is less than 0.1%, the effect is insufficient, and if the amount is too large, the feeling in use may be poor.

[0014]

When the humectant of the present invention is prepared, there is no particular limitation on the timing of addition of the above two stabilizers. However, in order to obtain a more effective stabilizing effect, the alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether is first used during the production of the lamellar structure. And the water-soluble polymer is preferably added after the production of the lamellar structure.

An example of the method for producing the humectant of the present invention is as follows: fatty acid monoglyceride, alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether, cholesterol (these lipids are dissolved in an organic solvent in advance, mixed, and then removed. Is added to the container, water (containing calcium chloride, humectant and preservative) heated to 50 to 85 ° C is added, and the mixture is heated to 50 to 85 ° C and stirred for 2 to 10 minutes.
Thereafter, the mixture is left at room temperature with stirring, cooled to 50 ° C. or lower, and then a water-soluble polymer is added.

The humectant thus obtained has a moisturizing action based on an excellent ability to maintain the water content of the stratum corneum, and if it is blended, a cosmetic having an excellent moisturizing effect can be obtained. This cosmetic is
It is preferably used as a skin cosmetic such as a lotion or a cosmetic essence.

The amount of the humectant added to the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is 0.1 to 100%, particularly 0.1 to 90%.
% Is preferable.

The humectant of the present invention is incorporated as an active ingredient in cosmetics, but does not destroy the lamellar structure.
Water, alcohols, oil components, whitening components, high-molecular substances, preservatives, fragrances, pigments, and the like can be added as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. In addition, other moisturizing components such as keratinocyte lipids, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, and lactic acid bacteria culture solution can be added. In addition, a surfactant can be blended as needed.

In order to prepare the cosmetic of the present invention, usually, a humectant and other components may be dispersed in water or the like. Alternatively, a humectant may be prepared by the above-described method, and the resulting lamella structure dispersion may be prepared by blending other components.

[0021]

The humectant of the present invention has excellent keratin water content retention ability and good stability against temperature. When it is blended, the humectant has excellent moisturizing action, good use feeling and good stability. Thus, a cosmetic having a property can be obtained.

[0022]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Prior to the description of the examples, test results on the stability of fatty acid monoglycerides to which an alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether or a water-soluble polymer has been added are shown.

Test Example 1 Fatty acid monoglyceride (palmitic acid monoglyceride)
To 0.1 g of water, 10 ml of water and 0 to 100% of monostearyl glycerin ether as an alkyl glycerin ether were added and stirred to obtain a lamellar structure. 4 ℃ in a thermostat
, And the stability at low temperature due to the addition of the alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether was observed with a polarizing microscope, and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Table 1 shows the results.

(Evaluation Criteria of Stability) A: Lamellar structure is confirmed in all particles. ：: Some have a somewhat lamellar structure. Δ: Some have a rather lamellar structure. ×: No lamella structure exists.

[0025]

[Table 1]

Test Example 2 Fatty acid monoglyceride (palmitic acid monoglyceride)
10 ml of water was added to 0.1 g and stirred to obtain a lamellar structure. To this, 0 to 200% of polyvinylpyrrolidone (molecular weight: 360,000) as a water-soluble polymer was added and stirred. This was maintained at 40 ° C. in a thermostat, and the stability at high temperature due to the addition of the water-soluble polymer was observed in the same manner as in Test Example 1. Table 2 shows the results.

[0027]

[Table 2]

Example 1 1 g of palmitic acid monoglyceride, 0.3 g of monostearylglycerin ether and 0.1 g of cholesterol
In a container, and calcium chloride 0.1
%, An aqueous solution containing 1% glycerin and 0.1% methyl paraben were added and sonicated at 60 ° C. for 5 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was left at room temperature with stirring to produce a lamellar structure. After cooling to 50 ° C. or less,
10% 0% PVP aqueous solution (containing 0.1% of calcium chloride and methyl paraben, molecular weight of PVP 40,000)
ml was added and stirred to obtain a humectant.

Example 2 2 g of palmitic acid monoglyceride, 0.5 g of monopalmityl glycerin ether and 0.1 g of cholesterol
In a container, and heated to 60 ° C. with calcium chloride 0.0
90 ml of an aqueous solution containing 1%, glycerin 1% and methyl paraben 0.1% was added, and the mixture was sonicated at 60 ° C. for 10 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was left at room temperature with stirring to produce a lamellar structure. Then, after cooling this to 50 ° C. or less, a 5% PVA aqueous solution (containing 0.01% of calcium chloride and 0.1% of methylparaben, and having a molecular weight of PVA of 10,
000) was added and stirred to obtain a humectant.

Example 3 2 g of stearic acid monoglyceride, 0.3 g of monostearylglycerin ether and 0.2 g of cholesterol
In a container and heated to 75 ° C. with 0.1 g of calcium chloride.
%, Glycerin 2% and methyl paraben 0.1% were added to the mixture, and the mixture was microfluidized at 75 ° C. for 5 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was left at room temperature with stirring to produce a lamellar structure. And this is 50 ℃
After cooling, 10 ml of a 1% aqueous solution of PVP / VA (containing 0.1% of calcium chloride and methylparaben, molecular weight of PVP / VA of 300,000) was added thereto, followed by stirring to obtain a humectant.

Example 4 Mixture of fatty acid monoglycerides (palmitic acid monoglyceride: stearic acid monoglyceride = 40: 60) 2
g, monooleyl glycerin ether 0.1 g and cholesterol 0.2 g were placed in a container, and 90 ml of an aqueous solution containing 0.1% of calcium chloride, 1% of glycerin and 0.1% of methylparaben heated to 80 ° C was added.
For 10 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was left at room temperature with stirring to produce a lamellar structure. And
After cooling the mixture to 50 ° C. or lower, 10 ml of a 10% PVA / DAM aqueous solution (containing 0.1% of calcium chloride and methyl paraben, and a molecular weight of PVP / DAM of 70,000) was added thereto, followed by stirring to obtain a humectant.

Example 5 The lamellar structure prepared in Example 1 was centrifuged, and the supernatant was removed and concentrated 20 times.

Example 6 The lamellar structure prepared in Example 2 was filtered, the supernatant was removed, and concentrated 10 times.

Example 7 The lamella structure prepared in Example 3 was centrifuged, and the supernatant was removed and concentrated 10 times.

Example 8 The lamellar structure prepared in Example 4 was filtered, the supernatant was removed and concentrated 20 times.

Examples 9 to 12 Components other than the humectant shown in Table 3 were prepared according to a conventional method, and after cooling to room temperature to 50 ° C., the humectant was added to obtain a lotion.

[0037]

[Table 3]

Examples 13 to 16 In the same manner as in Examples 9 to 12, lotions having the compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared.

[0039]

[Table 4]

Examples 17 to 20 Essences having the compositions shown in Table 5 were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 9 to 12.

[0041]

[Table 5]

Examples 21 to 24 Essences having the compositions shown in Table 6 were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 9 to 12.

[0043]

[Table 6]

Examples 25 to 28 In the same manner as in Examples 9 to 12, creams having the compositions shown in Table 7 were prepared.

[0045]

[Table 7]

Examples 29 to 32 In the same manner as in Examples 9 to 12, creams having the compositions shown in Table 8 were prepared.

[0047]

[Table 8]

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (72) Inventor Teruo Yokokura 1-1-19 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku, Tokyo Yakult Honsha Co., Ltd. (56) References JP-A-5-201845 (JP, A) JP-A Heisei 5-39484 (JP, A) JP-A-4-338311 (JP, A) JP-A-4-15289 (JP, A) JP-A-3-14506 (JP, A) JP-A-5-58838 (JP, A A) JP-A-53-113787 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) A61K 7/48 A61K 7/00

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A humectant comprising a lamellar structure containing a fatty acid monoglyceride as a main component, and an alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether. 2. The humectant according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl glycerin ether is a constituent of the lamellar structure. 3. The humectant according to claim 1, further comprising a water-soluble polymer. 4. A cosmetic comprising the humectant according to claim 1.