JPH10330211A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain skin cosmetics capable of inhibiting percutaneous absorption, elution and decrement of interkeratin cellular lipids, natural humectant factors and water and excellent in use feeling and preservation stability by blending a specific ingredient to a specific water-swelling clay mineral. SOLUTION: The objective skin cosmetics are obtained by blending >=0.001 wt.% of a water swelling clay mineral (preferably, a natural or synthetic smectite clay, especially bentonite, montmorillonite, saponite, etc.) having 1-5000 nm, preferably <=1000 nm average particle size measured by dynamic light scattering, >=30 mV voltage zeta potential measured by electrophoretic scattering and >=90% purity measured by powder X ray diffraction with 0.1-15 wt.% of (B) a fatty acid poly glycerine ester (e.g. decaglyceryl monostearate, etc.) expressed by the formula [R is H or a 12-22C acyl; (n) is 0-10].

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic composition which has an excellent skin protection effect and which is excellent in feeling of use, in particular, non-stickiness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, skin troubles have increased due to a decrease in skin barrier function due to drying and allergic diseases. In contrast, there are few examples of preparations made for the purpose of “protecting the skin”. For the purpose similar to this, that is, for the purpose of not irritating the skin, a composition containing a less irritating surfactant or a less irritating preservative has been proposed. These are certainly less irritating to the skin by the composition, but have no effect on irritation from others. It is also widely known to add anti-inflammatory drugs to the skin when the skin is irritated due to dryness or allergic diseases.However, anti-inflammatory drugs suppress the inflammation that has already occurred, and prevent skin barrier function. It does not work to enhance skin and protect skin from external stimuli.

[0003] Conventionally, clay minerals have properties such as adsorptivity, binding, suspending properties, swelling properties, film-forming properties, and viscosity increasing properties. Have been. When such a clay mineral is blended in a cosmetic, the cosmetic is (1) non-sticky, has a smooth and refreshing feel, (2) spreads well on the skin surface, forms a film and adheres. (3) thickens, (4) improves the stability of emulsions and suspensions, (5) improves cleansing performance of lotions and shampoos,
(6) It is known that properties such as improved washability with water or soap are imparted. That is, by blending the clay mineral, the liquid property of the cosmetic can be changed, and the texture and finish after use can be improved.

[0004] Further, the water-swellable clay mineral imparts the above-mentioned preferable feeling of use to cosmetics, and exhibits the same thickening effect as that of a polymer thickener. In addition, there is an advantage that the drainage of the cosmetic when removing the cosmetic from the container is improved. Therefore, from the above effects, water-swellable clay minerals have been conventionally used in cosmetics such as foundations, packs, creams, soaps, and paste-like facial cleansers (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-41891, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. -20227, JP-A-5-345715).

Furthermore, the present applicant has previously found that these water-swellable clay minerals further have a skin protective effect such as an inhibitory effect on keratinocyte intercellular lipid and NMF (natural moisturizing factor) elution and an alleviation of irritation. Have proposed a skin protective agent using the same (Japanese Patent Application No. 8-154814). However, this skin protective agent was not sufficiently satisfactory in the effect of suppressing the elution of NMF and the effect of suppressing the stimulation of an anionic surfactant, and was sticky and poor in storage stability.

Various emulsifiers have been used for stably blending the water-swellable clay mineral, but have not yet satisfied the stability and feeling of use, especially the feeling of stickiness. on the other hand,
Polyglycerin fatty acid esters are disclosed in
JP-A-12602 discloses an example in which the composition is used as a translucent cosmetic surfactant, and JP-B-7-64754 discloses an example in which the composition is used as a transdermal absorption enhancer.
JP-A-322222 merely describes examples of using as an emulsifier such as vegetable liquid oil and lecithin.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention suppresses the transdermal absorption of external stimuli containing a water-swellable clay mineral as an active ingredient, and suppresses the elution and decrease of keratinocyte intercellular lipids, natural moisturizing factors and water. Another object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic composition that has excellent usability and storage stability.

[0008]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have found that by blending a specific component with a specific water-swellable clay mineral, the above-mentioned drawbacks of the skin protective agent can be solved, and the present invention has been proposed. It was completed.

That is, according to the present invention, the average particle diameter is 1 to 5000 nm by dynamic light scattering, the absolute value of the zeta potential is 30 mV or more by electrophoretic scattering, and the purity is 90% or more by powder X-ray diffraction. A skin cosmetic comprising a water-swellable clay mineral and a polyglycerin fatty acid ester is provided.

[0010]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the skin cosmetic of the present invention will be described in more detail. As the water-swellable clay mineral to be incorporated in the skin cosmetic of the present invention, natural or synthetic smectite clay, particularly non-organic modified non-organic modified smectite clay is preferred, and bentonite, montmorillonite,
Piderite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, sauconite, stevensite, etc., and swelling mica can also be used. Among them, bentonite, montmorillonite and saponite are preferred.

The water-swellable clay mineral has an average particle size of 1 to 5000 nm as measured by a dynamic light scattering method.
Particularly, those having an absolute value of zeta potential of 30 mV or more measured by electrophoretic light scattering and a purity of 90% or more determined by powder X-ray diffraction are preferably used. The average particle size of the clay mineral is 5000 nm
If it is larger, the surface area per unit weight of the clay mineral is small and the contact area on the skin surface is small, so that the effect of suppressing percutaneous absorption to external stimuli and the effect of suppressing elution of components between keratinocytes are inferior. The preferred average particle size is 1000 nm or less, and the more preferred average particle size is 700 nm or less.

The zeta potential of the water-swellable clay mineral is preferably 30 mV or more from the amount of adsorption on the skin surface.
Furthermore, clay minerals, especially those collected from nature, contain non-swelling impurities such as calcite, tridymite, cristobalite, quartz, and various inorganic substances, so the above effects are insufficient, and the clay minerals The purity needs to be 90% or more, particularly preferably 95% or more.

In the skin cosmetic of the present invention, the amount of the specific water-swellable clay mineral is preferably at least 0.001% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.1% by weight from the viewpoint of sufficiently exerting its effect. preferable. If it exceeds 10% by weight, the dispersion stability tends to deteriorate, and if it is less than 0.001% by weight, the feeling in use and the skin protection effect are inferior.

The polyglycerin fatty acid ester blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention has the following general formula:

Embedded image (Wherein, R is a hydrogen atom or an acyl group having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and each R may be the same or different; n is a number from 0 to 10). .

If polyglycerin fatty acid ester is specifically exemplified, decaglycerin fatty acid ester includes decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, decaglyceryl monostearate, decaglyceryl monoisostearate, decaglyceryl monooleate. Eate, decaglyceryl dilaurate, decaglyceryl dimyristate, decaglyceryl distearate, decaglyceryl diisostearate, decaglyceryl dioleate, decaglyceryl trilaurate, decaglyceryl trimyristate, decaglyceryl tristearate, deca Glyceryl triisostearate and decaglyceryl trioleate are mentioned. Further, diglycerin fatty acid esters, tetraglycerin fatty acid esters, and hexaglycerin fatty acid esters having the same type and number of R as those described above can be used.

The number of acyl groups in the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is from 1 to 6 in view of the emulsion stability of the water-swellable clay mineral.
Preferably, 1-3 is good. The HLB is not particularly limited, but is preferably 3 to 15, more preferably 3 to 15.
Thirteen. In addition, HLB is hydrophili li
It is an abbreviation of popile balance and is one of indexes indicating an emulsifying effect. Polyglycerin fatty acid ester is
One type or a combination of two or more types can be used. The blending amount of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight.
% By weight. If it exceeds 15% by weight, stickiness occurs,
Impairs usability. If it is less than 0.1% by weight, the stability is poor.

The skin cosmetic containing the water-swellable clay mineral of the present invention contains, in addition to the above essential components, compounding agents usually used for external preparations for skin, for example, surfactants, oils, alcohols, humectants. , A thickener, a preservative, an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a pH adjuster, a fragrance, a pigment, an ultraviolet absorbing / scattering agent, vitamins, amino acids, water and the like.

Specifically, as the surfactant, lipophilic glycerin monostearate, self-emulsifying glycerin monostearate, polyglycerin monostearate, sorbitan monooleate and polyethylene glycol monostearate are used as nonionic surfactants. Ester type such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate, ether ester type such as polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether, polyoxyethylenated sterol, polyoxyethylenated lanolin, polyoxyethylene Ether type such as beeswax can be exemplified.

Examples of the anionic surfactant include a carboxylate type, a sulfonate type, a sulfate ester type and a phosphate ester type. Examples of the carboxylic acid type include higher fatty acid salts such as sodium stearate, potassium palmitate and triethanolamine palmitate;
Examples thereof include N-acyl amino acid salts such as sodium methylglycine, N-myristyl N-methyl-β-alanine potassium, N-palmitylglutamate triethanolamine, and alkyl ether carboxylate salts such as potassium lauryl ether carboxylate. Examples of the sulfonate type include sodium cetyl sulfonate, examples of the sulfate type include sodium lauryl ether sulfate, and examples of the phosphate type include sodium lauryl phosphate and sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl phosphate.

Examples of the cationic surfactant include stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and stearyltrimethylammonium chloride. Examples of the amphoteric surfactant include an amphoteric surfactant such as an alkylaminoethyl glycine chloride solution and lecithin.

Examples of the oil component include vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, cacao oil, camellia oil, coconut oil, wood wax, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, animal oils such as mink oil, egg yolk oil, and honey. Waxes such as wax, whale wax, lanolin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, liquid paraffin, squalane, microcrystalline wax, ceresin wax, paraffin wax, hydrocarbons such as petrolatum, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid , Isostearic acid, natural and synthetic fatty acids such as behenic acid, cetanol, stearyl alcohol,
Examples include natural and synthetic higher alcohols such as hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, and lauryl alcohol; esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, octyldodecyl myristate, octyldodecyl oleate, and cholesterol oleate. Can be.

Examples of the humectant include polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerin, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, amino acid derivatives such as trimethylglycine, sodium lactate, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Examples include NMF components such as sodium acid and amino acids, and water-soluble polymer substances such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, mucopolysaccharide, and chondroitin sulfate.

Examples of the thickener include sodium alginate,
Xanthan gum, aluminum silicate, quince seed extract, tragacanth gum, natural polymer substances such as starch,
Semi-synthetic polymer substances such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, soluble starch, and cationized cellulose can be exemplified.

Examples of preservatives include benzoate, salicylate, sorbate, dehydroacetate, p-hydroxybenzoate, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'- Trichlorocarbanilide, benzalkonium chloride, hinokitiol,
Resorcinol, ethanol and the like can be exemplified.

As antioxidants, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, propyl gallate, ascorbic acid, etc., and as chelating agents, disodium edetate, ethylenediaminetetraacetate, edetic acid, pyrophosphate, hexametaphosphate. Salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, etc., and examples of the pH adjuster include sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, boric acid, borax, potassium hydrogen phosphate, etc. it can.

Examples of the ultraviolet absorbing / scattering agent include 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethylparaaminobenzoate, ethylhexylparamethoxycinnamate, titanium oxide, kaolin, talc and the like.

The vitamins include vitamin A, vitamin B group, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin K, vitamin P, vitamin U, carnitine, ferulic acid, γ-oryzanol, α-lipoic acid, Orotic acids and their derivatives can be exemplified.

The amino acids include glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, serine, threonine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan,
Examples thereof include cystine, cysteine, methionine, proline, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, arginine, histidine, lysine, and derivatives thereof. The optional components are not limited to these.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention includes various cosmetic creams, milky lotions, lotions, serums, packs, pre-make-ups, under-make-ups, foundations, gels, ointments, and other external skin compositions, and oral cosmetics. It can be suitably used for cosmetics, bath cosmetics, body rinses and the like.

[0030]

EXAMPLES Examples and comparative examples will be described. The present invention is not limited to the following examples. The compositions of the skin cosmetics in Examples and Comparative Examples are shown by weight%. The NMF dissolution inhibitory effect test, irritation inhibitory effect test of anionic surfactant, usability evaluation test and stability evaluation test were examined by the following methods.

(1) NMF Elution Inhibition Effect Test Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA), which is one of the NMFs, was confirmed by quantification by the following method. After applying a fixed amount (4 mg / cm ² ) of the sample to the inner part of the forearm of five panelists, using 3 mL of 0.15% by weight kitchen detergent, extracting for 15 minutes by the cup method, the amount of PCA in the extract Was determined by high performance liquid chromatography under the following conditions. HPLC conditions Column TSKgel ODS80TM Column temperature 25 ° C Mobile phase 1M sodium sulfate, 0.1% by weight phosphoric acid Flow rate 0.8-1.0mL / min Injection amount 10μL Detector UV204nm PCA eluted amount when no sample is applied, 100% The PCA amount at the time of sample application is expressed as a PCA elution amount ratio. PCA elution amount ratio NMF elution inhibitory effect 0 to 25% ◎ 25 to 50% ○ 50 to 75% △ 75 to 100% ×

(2) Test of Stimulation Suppressing Effect of Anionic Surfactant A fixed amount of the sample (2
mg / cm ² ), and a closed patch test was performed for 24 hours using a fixed amount of a 0.5% by weight aqueous solution of SDS to determine the erythema score. Erythema condition Erythema score No erythema 0 Erythema very weak 1 Erythema clear 2 Medium to strong erythema 3 Erythema extremely intense to scab 4 Average the 6 spots and compare the average score with the score when not applied. Is determined. Score comparison Judgment is low with significant difference at sample application ○ No significant difference but low at sample application △ No change ×

(3) Evaluation of feeling of use (non-stickiness) A practical test was conducted by 20 panelists, and a score was given based on a five-point absolute evaluation. The scores are averaged and expressed as follows. Average score judgment 4.0 to 5.0 ◎ 3.0 to less than 4.0 ○ 2.0 to less than 3.0 △ 1.0 to less than 2.0 ×

(4) Evaluation of Storage Stability A sample is placed in a 50 mL vial and stored at 50 ° C., and the state of the sample after one month is visually determined. Appearance Judgment No significant change compared to initial value ○ Separation or significant decrease in viscosity ×

Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 The cream compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 shown in Table 1 were prepared, and their skin protection effect, feeling of use, and stability were evaluated. The adjustment method is as follows.
, And then mixed and emulsified, adding a flavor component while cooling, and cooling to room temperature. Each evaluation result is as shown in Table 1.

[0036]

[Table 1]

Examples 2 to 6 In the same manner as in Example 1, the cream compositions of Examples 2 to 6 shown in Table 2 were prepared, and the skin protective effect, feeling of use, and stability were evaluated. The adjustment method used was a method in which an aqueous component and an oil component were each heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., mixed and emulsified, and a perfume component was added while cooling, followed by cooling to room temperature.
Each evaluation result is as shown in Table 2.

[0038]

[Table 2]

Examples 7 and 8 and Comparative Example 3 In the same manner as in Example 1, the emulsion compositions shown in Table 3 were prepared, and the skin protective effect and the feeling upon use and stability were evaluated. The adjustment method used was a method in which an aqueous component and an oily component were each heated and dissolved at 70 ° C., mixed and emulsified, a perfume component was added while cooling, and then cooled to room temperature. Each evaluation result is as shown in Table 3.

[0040]

[Table 3]

Examples 9 to 11 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 In the same manner as in Example 1, the lotion compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared, and the skin protection effect and the feeling upon use and stability were evaluated. The adjustment method used was the same as in Example 1 in which the aqueous component and the ethanol-soluble component were each dissolved and then mixed. Each evaluation result is as shown in Table 4.

[0042]

[Table 4]

[0043]

The skin cosmetic of the present invention is a blend of the specific water-swellable clay mineral and a polyglycerin fatty acid ester.
The effect of suppressing F elution and the effect of suppressing irritation caused by the anionic surfactant can be further improved, the usability is also improved, and the storage stability is remarkably improved. The skin cosmetics of the present invention include various cosmetic creams, milky lotions, lotions, serums, packs, pre-make-ups, under-make-ups, foundations, gels, ointments and other external skin compositions, and oral cosmetics. It can be suitably used for various uses such as cosmetics and bath cosmetics.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. An average particle diameter of 1 to 50 determined by a dynamic light scattering method.
00 nm, absolute value of zeta potential by electrophoretic scattering method 3
A skin cosmetic comprising a water swellable clay mineral having a purity of at least 0 mV and a purity of at least 90% according to a powder X-ray diffraction method, and a polyglycerin fatty acid ester.