JP3632162B2 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Skin cosmetics Download PDF

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Publication number
JP3632162B2
JP3632162B2 JP01740897A JP1740897A JP3632162B2 JP 3632162 B2 JP3632162 B2 JP 3632162B2 JP 01740897 A JP01740897 A JP 01740897A JP 1740897 A JP1740897 A JP 1740897A JP 3632162 B2 JP3632162 B2 JP 3632162B2
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Japan
Prior art keywords
skin
effect
present
glycyrrhetinic acid
test
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JP01740897A
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Japanese (ja)
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JPH10194956A (en
Inventor
俊雄 引間
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株式会社カネボウ化粧品
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、特に美白効果に優れ、さらに肌荒れ防止効果、老化防止効果効果に優れた皮膚化粧料に関する。
【0002】
【従来技術及び発明が解決しようとする課題】
紫外線により皮膚は炎症(紅斑)を起こし肌荒れを起こすばかりでなく、種々の因子が放出されメラノサイトを刺激し、色素沈着を生じる。また、長波長紫外線は真皮まで到達し、長期にわたって皮膚の柔軟性を失わせ皮膚の老化を引き起こす。
【0003】
従来より、紫外線による障害に対しては、L−アスコルビン酸およびその誘導体、ハイドロキノン誘導体、コウジ酸等のピロン類、プラセンターエキス等の胎盤抽出物などの美白剤やグリチルリチン類などの抗炎症剤が配合された皮膚化粧料が用いられてきた。しかし、これらの物質は、保存安定性が不十分であったり、紫外線による炎症防止効果が十分に認められないことが多かった。
【0004】
一方、特定のビフェニル化合物にはチロシナーゼ活性阻害効果やメラニン生成抑制効果があることが知られている(特開平6−145040号公報、特開平7−25743号公報)。しかし、これを単独で配合した場合にも、美白効果は満足できるものではなかった。
【0005】
そこで本発明者らは鋭意研究した結果、グリチルリチン酸塩、グリチルレチン酸、及びグリチルレチン酸のエステル類から選ばれる少なくとも1種と、特定のビフェニル化合物の少なくとも1種を含有する皮膚化粧料は、特に美白効果に優れ、さらには、肌荒れ防止効果、老化防止効果に優れていることを見出し本発明を完成するに至った。
【0006】
本発明の目的は、特に美白効果に優れ、さらに肌荒れ防止効果、老化防止効果効果に優れた皮膚化粧料を提供することにある。
【0007】
【課題を解決するための手段】
上記目的を達成する本発明は、グリチルリチン酸塩、グリチルレチン酸、及びグリチルレチン酸のエステルから選ばれる少なくとも1種と、下記一般式(1)及び(2)で表されるビフェニル化合物から選ばれる少なくとも一種を含有する皮膚化粧料である。
【0008】
【化3】
【0009】
(但し、RはCH、C、C、CHOH、COH、CHCH=CHの置換基である)
【0010】
【化4】
【0011】
(但し、Rは、水素原子もしくは炭素数1から8の直鎖又は分岐鎖状の飽和炭化水素基である)
【0012】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明の実施の形態について詳述する。
【0013】
本発明に用いられるグリチルリチン酸塩類としては、18α−グリチルリチン酸のモノナトリウム塩、モノカリウム塩、モノアンモニウム塩、ジカリウム塩、また、18β−グリチルリチン酸のモノナトリウム塩、モノカリウム塩、モノアンモニウム塩、ジカリウム塩などが特に好ましいものとして挙げることができるが、これらに限定されるものではない。
【0014】
本発明に用いられるグリチルレチン酸としては、18α−グリチルレチン酸、18β−グリチルレチン酸がある。
【0015】
本発明に用いられるグリレチルレチン酸のエステルとしては18α−グリチルレチン酸ステアリル、また、18β−グリチルレチン酸ステアリルなどが特に好ましいものとして挙げることができるが、これらに限定されるものではない。
【0016】
これらグリチルリチン酸塩、グリチルレチン酸、及びグリチルレチン酸のエステル類の含有量は、化粧料の処方成分全量を基準として0.001〜30.0重量%が好ましい。
【0017】
本発明に用いられるビフェニル化合物は公知の物質であり、例えば具体例としてデヒドロジクレオソール、デヒドロジオイゲノール、テトラハイドロマグノロール等が挙げられる(ジャーナル オブ オーガニック ケミストリィ、第28巻、1048頁、1963年:日本化学会誌、第87巻、第6号、603頁、1966年)。
【0018】
その配合量は化粧料全量中0.0001〜20重量%が好ましい
【0019】
本発明の化粧料には、上記原料の他に、色素、香料、防腐剤、界面活性剤、抗酸化剤、保湿剤などを本発明の目的を達成する範囲内で適宜配合することができる。
【0020】
本発明の化粧料の剤型としては、クリーム、乳液、化粧水、パックなどが挙げられる。この化粧料は、例えば乳液等の場合、油相及び水相をそれぞれ加熱溶解したものを乳化分散して冷却する通常の方法により製造することができる。
【0021】
【実施例】
以下、実施例及び比較例に基づいて本発明を詳述する。尚、実施例に示す%とは重量%である。実施例に記載の皮膚色明度回復試験法、しわ形成抑制試験方法(老化防止効果)、荒れ肌改善効果の測定方法、官能評価試験は下記の通りである。
【0022】
尚、実施例におけるビフェニル化合物の名称を前記一般式のR、Rの違いにより以下のごとく記載する。
ビフェニル化合物1(R;CH)、ビフェニル化合物2(R;C)、ビフェニル化合物3(R;C)、ビフェニル化合物4(R;CHOH)、ビフェニル化合物5(R;COH)、ビフェニル化合物6(R;CHCH=CH)、ビフェニル化合物7(R;CH)、ビフェニル化合物8(R;C)、ビフェニル化合物9(R;C)、ビフェニル化合物10(R;iso−C)、ビフェニル化合物11(R;C17)、ビフェニル化合物12(R;H)。
【0023】
(1)皮膚色明度回復試験法
被験者20名の背部皮膚にUV−B領域の紫外線を最小紅斑量の2倍照射し、試料塗布部位と非塗布部位を設定して各々の皮膚の基準明度(V値,V´値)を測定した。引き続いて塗布部位には試料を1日2回ずつ15週間連続塗布した後、3,6,9,12,15週間後の塗布部位及び非塗布部位の皮膚の明度(Vn 値,Vn ´値)を測定し、下記の判定基準にしたがって皮膚色の回復を評価した。
尚、皮膚の明度(マンセル表色系V値)は高速分光色彩計で測定して得られたX,Y,Z値より算出した。また評価は被験者20名ついて、3週間後の評価点の平均値で示した。
【0024】
(2)ヘアレスマウスによるしわ形成抑制試験
ヘアレスマウス(HR/ICR、実験開始時6週齢)10匹を用い、その背部に試料を80μl塗布した。2時間後、70%エタノールで皮膚表面上の試料を拭き取り、健康線用ランプ(東芝製、SE20)を6本用意し、1回の照射量が1MED以下となるように調節してUV−B光の照射を行い、その直後に試料を塗布した。この操作を週5回、16週間にわたって行った。照射のエネルギー量をUV−Radiometer(TOKYO OPTICAL社製、UVR−305/365D)を用いて測定した。試験終了後しわの度数を肉眼により下記基準(しわ指数)で評価した。試験結果は評価点の平均で示した。
【0025】
(3)荒れ肌改善効果の測定試験法
下脚に荒れ肌を有する中高年被験者20名を対象として4週間連続塗布効果を調べた。被験者の左側下脚試験部位に1日2回約1gの試料を塗布し、試験開始前及び終了後の皮膚の状態を下記の判定基準により判定した。右側下脚は試料を塗布せず対照とした。
試験前後の試験部位と対照部位の判定結果を比較し、皮膚乾燥度が2段階以上改善された場合(例えば;+→−,++→±)を「有効」、1段階改善された場合を「やや有効」、変化がなかった場合を「無効」とした。試験結果は「有効」「やや有効」となった被験者の人数で示した。
【0026】
(4)官能試験
被験者20名が試料を10日間連用した後の試料の特性を評価した。評価は、平滑性、美白効果、弾力性のアンケート項目に対し、「皮膚が滑らかになった」、「美白効果が感じられた」、「皮膚に張りが生じた」と回答した人数で示した。
【0027】
実施例1〜12,比較例1〜10
グリチルリチン酸塩、グリチルレチン酸、及びグリチルレチン酸のエステル類と、ビフェニル化合物を表1の組成において配合し、下記の調製方法に基づいてスキンクリームを調製した。各々について前記の試験を実施し、その結果を表2、表3に示した。
組成
【0028】
【表1】
【0029】
【表2】
【0030】
【表3】
【0031】
調製方法
(A)(B)を70℃にて均一に溶解し、(A)を攪拌しながら(B)を(A)に注入して乳化分散した後、攪拌しながら温度30℃まで冷却して調製する。
【0032】
特性
本発明の実施例1〜12のスキンクリームは、前記諸試験において良好な結果を示した。一方、比較例1〜10のスキンクリームは、十分な効果が認められず、本発明の実施例に比べて劣っていた。
【0033】
実施例13[スキンローション]
表4の組成により本発明のスキンローションを下記の製法によって調製した。
組成
【0034】
【表4】
【0035】
調製法
(A),(B)の各成分をそれぞれ混合溶解し、(B)を(A)に加えて混合攪拌して調製した。
【0036】
特性
この実施例13のスキンローションは、前記諸試験において良好な結果を示した。
【0037】
【発明の効果】
以上記載のごとく、本発明が、特に美白効果に優れ、さらに肌荒れ防止効果、老化防止効果効果に優れた皮膚化粧料を提供することは明らかである。
[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that is particularly excellent in a whitening effect, and further excellent in a rough skin preventing effect and an antiaging effect.
[0002]
[Prior Art and Problems to be Solved by the Invention]
Ultraviolet rays cause inflammation (erythema) and rough skin, and various factors are released to stimulate melanocytes and cause pigmentation. In addition, long-wavelength ultraviolet rays reach the dermis and cause skin aging by losing skin flexibility over a long period of time.
[0003]
Conventionally, anti-inflammatory agents such as whitening agents such as L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone derivatives, pyrones such as kojic acid, placenta extracts such as placenta extract, and glycyrrhizins have been used for damage caused by ultraviolet rays. Formulated skin cosmetics have been used. However, these substances often have insufficient storage stability and the effect of preventing inflammation due to ultraviolet rays has not been sufficiently observed.
[0004]
On the other hand, it is known that specific biphenyl compounds have a tyrosinase activity inhibitory effect and a melanin production inhibitory effect (Japanese Patent Laid-Open Nos. 6-145040 and 7-25743). However, the whitening effect was not satisfactory even when this was blended alone.
[0005]
Accordingly, as a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that skin cosmetics containing at least one selected from glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid, and esters of glycyrrhetinic acid and at least one specific biphenyl compound are particularly whitening. The present invention has been completed by finding that it is excellent in effect, and further excellent in rough skin prevention and anti-aging effects.
[0006]
An object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic that is particularly excellent in a whitening effect, and further excellent in a rough skin preventing effect and an antiaging effect.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention that achieves the above object provides at least one selected from glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid, and esters of glycyrrhetinic acid, and at least one selected from biphenyl compounds represented by the following general formulas (1) and (2) A skin cosmetic containing
[0008]
[Chemical 3]
[0009]
(However, R 1 is a substituent of CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , C 3 H 7 , CH 2 OH, C 3 H 6 OH, CH 2 CH═CH 2 )
[0010]
[Formula 4]
[0011]
(However, R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms.)
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
[0013]
Examples of glycyrrhizinate used in the present invention include monosodium salt, monopotassium salt, monoammonium salt, dipotassium salt of 18α-glycyrrhizic acid, and monosodium salt, monopotassium salt, monoammonium salt of 18β-glycyrrhizic acid, Although a dipotassium salt etc. can be mentioned as a particularly preferable thing, it is not limited to these.
[0014]
Examples of glycyrrhetinic acid used in the present invention include 18α-glycyrrhetinic acid and 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid.
[0015]
Examples of the ester of glycyrrhetinic acid used in the present invention include stearyl of 18α-glycyrrhetinic acid and stearyl of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid, which are not particularly limited.
[0016]
The content of these glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid, and esters of glycyrrhetinic acid is preferably 0.001 to 30.0% by weight based on the total amount of prescription ingredients of the cosmetic.
[0017]
The biphenyl compound used in the present invention is a known substance, and specific examples thereof include dehydrodichloroeosol, dehydrodioigenol, tetrahydromagnolol and the like (Journal of Organic Chemistry, 28, 1048, 1963). : Journal of the Chemical Society of Japan, Vol. 87, No. 6, 603, 1966).
[0018]
The blending amount is preferably 0.0001 to 20% by weight based on the total amount of the cosmetic.
In addition to the above raw materials, pigments, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, antioxidants, moisturizers and the like can be appropriately blended in the cosmetic of the present invention within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention.
[0020]
Examples of the dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention include creams, emulsions, lotions and packs. For example, in the case of a milky lotion, this cosmetic can be produced by an ordinary method in which an oil phase and an aqueous phase are each dissolved by heating and emulsified and cooled.
[0021]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples and comparative examples. In addition,% shown in an Example is weight%. The skin color lightness recovery test method, wrinkle formation inhibition test method (anti-aging effect), measurement method for rough skin improvement effect, and sensory evaluation test described in Examples are as follows.
[0022]
In addition, the name of the biphenyl compound in an Example is described as follows with the difference of R < 1 >, R < 2 > of the said general formula.
Biphenyl compound 1 (R 1 ; CH 3 ), biphenyl compound 2 (R 1 ; C 2 H 5 ), biphenyl compound 3 (R 1 ; C 3 H 7 ), biphenyl compound 4 (R 1 ; CH 2 OH), biphenyl Compound 5 (R 1 ; C 3 H 6 OH), biphenyl compound 6 (R 1 ; CH 2 CH═CH 2 ), biphenyl compound 7 (R 2 ; CH 3 ), biphenyl compound 8 (R 2 ; C 2 H 5 ), Biphenyl compound 9 (R 2 ; C 3 H 7 ), biphenyl compound 10 (R 2 ; iso-C 3 H 7 ), biphenyl compound 11 (R 2 ; C 8 H 17 ), biphenyl compound 12 (R 2 ; H).
[0023]
(1) Skin lightness recovery test method The back skin of 20 subjects was irradiated with UV rays in the UV-B region twice as much as the minimum erythema amount, the sample application site and the non-application site were set, and the standard brightness of each skin ( (V 0 value, V 0 ′ value) were measured. Subsequently, after continuously applying the sample to the application site twice a day for 15 weeks, the brightness of the skin at the application site and non-application site after 3, 6, 9, 12, 15 weeks (Vn value, Vn ′ value) The skin color recovery was evaluated according to the following criteria.
The lightness of the skin (Munsell color system V value) was calculated from X, Y, and Z values obtained by measurement with a high-speed spectral colorimeter. Moreover, evaluation was shown with the average value of the evaluation score after 20 weeks about 20 test subjects.
[0024]
(2) Wrinkle formation inhibition test using hairless mice Ten hairless mice (HR / ICR, 6 weeks of age at the start of the experiment) were used, and 80 μl of the sample was applied to the back. After 2 hours, wipe off the sample on the skin surface with 70% ethanol, prepare six health line lamps (Toshiba, SE20), and adjust the irradiation dose to 1 MED or less to UV-B. The sample was applied immediately after light irradiation. This operation was performed 5 times a week for 16 weeks. The amount of irradiation energy was measured using a UV-Radiometer (manufactured by TOKYO OPTICAL, UVR-305 / 365D). After the test, the frequency of wrinkles was evaluated with the naked eye according to the following criteria (wrinkle index). The test result was shown by the average of evaluation points.
[0025]
(3) Measurement test method for effect of improving rough skin The effect of continuous application was examined for 20 middle-aged and older subjects having rough skin on the lower leg for 4 weeks. About 1 g of a sample was applied to the subject's left lower leg test site twice a day, and the skin condition before and after the test was determined according to the following criteria. The lower right leg was used as a control with no sample applied.
The judgment results of the test site before and after the test and the control site are compared, and when the skin dryness is improved by two or more levels (for example, + → −, ++ → ±) is “effective”, and when the level is improved by 1 level, “Slightly effective” and “invalid” when there was no change. The test result was shown by the number of subjects who became “effective” and “slightly effective”.
[0026]
(4) Sensory test The characteristics of the sample after 20 test subjects were used for 10 days were evaluated. The evaluation was shown by the number of respondents who answered “Skin became smooth”, “I felt a whitening effect”, and “Skin was stretched” for questionnaire items on smoothness, whitening effect, and elasticity. .
[0027]
Examples 1-12, Comparative Examples 1-10
Glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid, esters of glycyrrhetinic acid and a biphenyl compound were blended in the composition shown in Table 1, and a skin cream was prepared based on the following preparation method. The above test was carried out for each, and the results are shown in Tables 2 and 3.
Composition [0028]
[Table 1]
[0029]
[Table 2]
[0030]
[Table 3]
[0031]
Preparation method (A) (B) is uniformly dissolved at 70 ° C., and (B) is injected into (A) while emulsifying and dispersing while stirring (A), and then cooled to 30 ° C. with stirring. Prepare.
[0032]
Characteristics The skin creams of Examples 1 to 12 of the present invention showed good results in the above tests. On the other hand, the skin creams of Comparative Examples 1 to 10 were inferior to the examples of the present invention because sufficient effects were not recognized.
[0033]
Example 13 [Skin Lotion]
The skin lotion of the present invention was prepared by the following production method according to the composition shown in Table 4.
Composition [0034]
[Table 4]
[0035]
The components of preparation methods (A) and (B) were mixed and dissolved, and (B) was added to (A) and mixed and stirred.
[0036]
Properties The skin lotion of Example 13 showed good results in the above tests.
[0037]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, it is apparent that the present invention provides a skin cosmetic that is particularly excellent in the whitening effect, and further excellent in the rough skin prevention effect and the antiaging effect.

Claims (1)

グリチルリチン酸塩、グリチルレチン酸、及びグリチルレチン酸のエステルから選ばれる少なくとも1種と、下記一般式(1)及び(2)で表されるビフェニル化合物から選ばれる少なくとも一種を含有する皮膚化粧料。
A skin cosmetic containing at least one selected from glycyrrhizinate, glycyrrhetinic acid, and esters of glycyrrhetinic acid and at least one selected from biphenyl compounds represented by the following general formulas (1) and (2).
JP01740897A 1997-01-14 1997-01-14 Skin cosmetics Expired - Lifetime JP3632162B2 (en)

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JP2005015450A (en) * 2003-06-30 2005-01-20 Kanebo Cosmetics Inc Skin cosmetic
US20060263400A1 (en) * 2005-05-17 2006-11-23 Bissett Donald L Regulation of mammalian keratinous tissue using skin and/or hair care actives

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JP3045604B2 (en) * 1992-05-14 2000-05-29 鐘紡株式会社 Whitening cosmetics
JP3023254B2 (en) * 1992-11-05 2000-03-21 鐘紡株式会社 Melanin production inhibitor
JP2708692B2 (en) * 1993-03-01 1998-02-04 鐘紡株式会社 Whitening cosmetics
JP2719300B2 (en) * 1993-07-07 1998-02-25 鐘紡株式会社 Melanin production inhibitor
JPH07118140A (en) * 1993-10-20 1995-05-09 Kanebo Ltd Cosmetic for preventing aging of skin
JP2774063B2 (en) * 1993-12-24 1998-07-09 鐘紡株式会社 Antioxidant composition
JP3441166B2 (en) * 1994-05-30 2003-08-25 カネボウ株式会社 Anti-aging skin cosmetics

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