JP2003342159A - Cosmetic for preventing aging of skin - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To improve skin aging-preventing effect by removal of an active oxygen and improve problems in color, odor and stability of cosmetics for preventing aging of the skin. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic is obtained by combinedly using an L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative, particularly L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, more preferably L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate with an antioxidant, particularly a plant extract having antioxidant action and/or coenzyme Q10. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a skin anti-aging cosmetic composition having improved antioxidative activity against sebum, skin and skin cells, and a skin external preparation.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Aging of the skin, that is, wrinkles and sagging of the skin, has recently caused extracellular oxygen-mediated extracellular matrix, such as collagen and elastin, which is generated in the skin and sebum on the surface of the skin by exposure to ultraviolet rays. It has been found that the quantitative and qualitative changes are one of the major factors, and from these viewpoints, the active oxygen levels of L-ascorbic acid, d-δ tocopherol, and plant extracts having antioxidant activity Attempts have been made to prevent wrinkles and sagging by removal.
That is, for the purpose of preventing skin aging, attempts have been made to apply creams and lotions containing these antioxidants locally. However, although these methods are effective, they cannot be said to be sufficient in effect, and there are many problems in color, smell and stability, and they are not satisfactory.

[0003]

Problems to be Solved by the Invention It is an object of the present invention to improve the effect of preventing skin aging from the viewpoint of removing active oxygen and to improve the problems in color, odor and stability of these skin anti-aging cosmetics. And

[0004]

Means for Solving the Problems The inventors of the present invention have made earnest studies to solve the problem of cosmetics for preventing skin aging from the viewpoint of removing active oxygen. As a result, the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative is obtained. It has been found that the combined use of a plant extract having antioxidative activity and other antioxidants can provide synergistic inhibition of sebum oxidation and anti-wrinkle effect as compared with the case where each is used alone. . Also, L-
Ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative does not directly show reducibility and is a tetra-fatty acid ester, so it is extremely unlikely to cause Maillard reaction, and does not impair the color, odor and stability of the cosmetic formulation system, and is advantageous. The present invention has been completed based on the finding that it can be used in combination with an antioxidant.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a branched fatty acid having 8 to 18 carbon atoms as a fatty acid residue. Among them, L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is preferable, and among L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate is particularly preferable. As L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative, L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, and L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate, Japanese Patent No. 32537 is used.
The production method is described in No. 35.

The L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative used in the present invention does not show a direct reducing property and is a tetra-fatty acid ester, so that the Maillard reaction is extremely unlikely to occur. Therefore, since it does not cause unnecessary reactions with the antioxidants and the like shown below, the stability as a formulation is extremely high, and problems in color, odor, and stability are unlikely to occur, and the combination can be advantageously used.

Examples of the plant extract having an antioxidative ability used in the present invention include thistle extract, flower extract of Triticum arvense, evening primrose extract, evening primrose seed extract, perilla extract,
Perilla seed extract, corn seed extract, chamomile extract, aloe extract, agets extract, sardine extract, licorice extract, oyster extract, yeast extract, horsetail extract, sage extract, tea extract, clove extract, tomato extract, hamamelis extract, yukinoshita extract, Examples include apple extract, grape extract, rosemary extract and the like.

The antioxidants used in the present invention include sodium bisulfite, sodium sulfite, erythorbic acid, sodium erythorbate, dilauryl thiodipropionate, retinol, tocopherol, tolylbiguanide, nordihydroguaiaretinic acid, and parahydroxy. Examples include anisole, butylhydroxyanisole, dibutylhydroxytoluene, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl palmitate, octyl gallate, propyl gallate, carotenoids, flavonoids, tannins, lignans, saponins and coenzyme Q10.

Among these antioxidants, plant extracts are preferable from the viewpoint of safety and the like, and in particular clove extract, ages extract, rosemary extract, peony extract, tea extract, evening primrose extract, evening primrose seed extract, perilla extract, Perilla seed extract, ages extract, licorice extract, tomato extract, apple extract, grape extract and the like are preferable.

As a human-derived antioxidant, coenzyme Q10 is highly safe and can be preferably used in the same manner as a plant extract having antioxidant power. This coenzyme Q
10 is a ubiquinone peculiar to human having 10 isoprene units in the side chain of ubiquinones: 2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-polyprenyl-1,4-benzoquinone.
Coenzyme Q10 is ubidecarenone or coenzyme UQ1
It is also called 0 and is described in the Japanese Pharmacopoeia.

The cosmetic of the present invention contains the above-mentioned L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative and an antioxidant as essential components, and in addition, is used in the cosmetic within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. Ingredients such as oils, higher alcohols, fatty acids, UV absorbers, powders, pigments, surfactants, polyhydric alcohols / sugars, polymers, physiologically active ingredients, solvents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, etc. can do.

[0012]

The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. The addition amount is shown by weight%.

(Effect of Peroxide Inhibition Using Squalene as Target Substance) The effect of preventing skin aging based on the active oxygen removal effect of the combined use of the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative and the antioxidant is Squalene (S
It evaluated using Q) as a target substance of an oxidizable substance. That is, after applying the evaluation formulation 1 which is a formulation system in which an L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative is used in combination with an antioxidant to the skin, it is irradiated with ultraviolet rays (UVB), and the amount of squalene peroxide generated varies. The effect of suppressing peroxide generation was evaluated. As the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative, tetra-isohexyldecanoic acid L-ascorbyl among tetraisopalmitic acid L-ascorbyl is used, and as the antioxidant, clove extract, ages extract, rosemary extract, peony extract. , Tea extract, and coenzyme Q10 were used.

(Evaluation Formulation 1: Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8) (Component) Weight% Stearic Acid 2.5 Cetanol 1.2 Vaseline 5.0 Liquid Paraffin Table 1 and Table 2 Amount of L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate Amount of addition shown in Table 1 and Table 2 Antioxidant Ingredients and amounts shown in Table 1 and Table 2 Polyethylene glycol monooleate 2.0 Polyethylene glycol 2.5 Triethanolamine 1.0 Sodium hyaluronate 0.2 Glycerin 3.0 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remainder (preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsification of an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

(Test Method) Examples 1 to 7 and Comparative Example 1
After applying 0.05 g of the sample from ~ 8 to the inner part of the forearm (8 cm x 6 cm) of 6 subjects, it was left standing for 4 hours, and 0.9 M
The ED was irradiated with UVB. After irradiation, 9 ml of acetone /
Sebum was extracted for 3 minutes using a diethyl ether mixed solution (1/1 (volume ratio)), the solvent was distilled off at room temperature, and then squalene peroxide (SQ
-OOH) was measured. In addition, using a formulation containing no L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and an antioxidant shown in the control of Table 2 as a sample, SQ-
The OOH was measured.

(Evaluation method) A method for evaluating the inhibition of peroxide generation in sebum is SQ-OO according to the following formula based on the peak areas of SQ-OOH and squalene (SQ) in sebum.
The production rate of H was determined and the effect of suppressing the peroxide production was evaluated. (SQ-OOH production rate (%)) = (SQ-OOH peak area / SQ peak area) × 100 The SQ-OOH production rate was evaluated according to the reduction rate relative to the control according to the following evaluation criteria. (Evaluation Criteria) A: SQ-OOH production rate is 80 relative to control
% Or more. ◯: SQ-OOH production rate is 50 relative to control
% To 80%. Δ: SQ-OOH production rate is 20 relative to control
% To 50%. X: The production rate of SQ-OOH was less than 20% of the control.

[0017]

[Table 1]

[0018]

[Table 2]

As shown in Table 1 and Table 2, tetra 2-
It is confirmed that the combined use of L-ascorbyl hexyldecanoate and an antioxidant reduces the production rate of SQ-OOH, and it is found that the production of squalene peroxide is significantly suppressed. Therefore, tetraisopalmitic acid L
-It is shown that the combined use of ascorbyl and an antioxidant is expected to have a skin aging preventing effect due to the active oxygen suppressing effect. Next, the wrinkle-reducing effect of a cosmetic formulation in which tetra-hexyldecanoate L-ascorbyl and clove extract, age extract, rosemary extract, peony extract, tea extract, and coenzyme Q10 are used in combination,
It was evaluated by sensory evaluation.

(Formulation: Examples 8 to 14 and Comparative Examples 9 to 16) (Component)% by Weight Acrylic Acid / Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer 0.5 Carboxyvinyl Polymer 0.2 L-Arginine 0.5 Hyaluronic Acid Sodium 0.01 L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate Addition amount shown in Tables 3 and 4 Antioxidant Components and addition amounts shown in Tables 3 and 4 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 Liquid paraffin 10 0.0 Oliv oil 5.0 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 10.0 Preservative Suitable amount Purified water Remainder (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method of emulsification method of oil-in-water emulsion composition.

(Evaluation Method for Wrinkle Improvement Effect by Sensory Evaluation) 15 women (20 to 60 years old) who are worried about wrinkles were used as test subjects, and the method was applied to the wrinkled part twice a day. evaluated. The degree of wrinkle improvement of the skin condition one month after the application was evaluated based on the following evaluation criteria. (Evaluation Criteria) ◎: 13 to 15 people felt that the wrinkle improvement effect was effective ○: 7 to 12 people felt that the wrinkle improvement effect was effective △: 4 to those who felt that the wrinkle improvement effect was effective 6 people x: 3 or less people felt that the wrinkle improvement effect was effective

[0022]

[Table 3]

[0023]

[Table 4]

As shown in Tables 3 and 4, tetra 2
-It is understood that the combined use of L-ascorbyl hexyldecanoate and an antioxidant exhibits a significant wrinkle improving effect. Therefore, it can be seen that the combined use of L-ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and an antioxidant exhibits an effective anti-aging effect on skin. Furthermore, an example in which L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate and an antioxidant are used in combination in an actual cosmetic formulation will be shown.

Example 15: Emollient cream (formulation) wt% oil phase L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 1.0 squalane 10.0 isocetyl myristate 6.0 glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 3.0 macadamia nut oil 1 0.0 Dimethicone 0.2 Cetanol 5.0 Polyxyethylene 20 Cetyl ether 1.0 Polyoxyethylene 40 sorbit tetraoleate 0.5 Glyceryl monostearate 1.0 Aqueous tea extract 0.1 Hydrogenated soybean lecithin 2 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 xanthan gum 0.1 sodium hyaluronate 0.01 citric acid 0.1 sodium citrate 0.4 preservative appropriate amount purified water balance (preparation method) emulsification method of oil-in-water emulsion composition An emulsified composition was prepared according to the conventional method of.

Example 16: Beauty oil (formulation) wt% L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 1.0 Licorice extract 0.05 Isocetyl myristate 10.0 Jojoba oil 5.0 Natural vitamin E 0.1 Squalane balance ( Preparation method) All components were mixed at room temperature until uniform.

Example 17: Skin lotion (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 0.1 Tri (caprylic acid / capric acid) glyceryl 0.1 Polyoxypropylene 4 Polyoxyethylene 20 Cetyl ether 0 .6 Hamamelis Extract 0.05 Aqueous Phase Propylene Glycol 10.0 Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remainder (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsifying an oil-in-water emulsion composition. .

Example 18: Emulsion (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-Ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 2.0 d-δ-Tocopherol 0.1 Squalane 5.0 Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 5.0 Methylpolysiloxane 0.5 Cetyl palmitate 0.5 Behenyl alcohol 1.5 Stearic acid 0.5 Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate 1.0 Polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monostearate 1.0 Polyoxyethylene 40 sorbitol tetraoleate 1.5 Aqueous phase Propylene glycol 7.0 Xanthan gum 0.1 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remainder (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method of emulsifying an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

Example 19: Water-in-oil type emollient cream (formulation) wt% oil phase tetra-hexyldecanoate L-ascorbyl 2.0 clove extract 0.1 dimethicone copolyol 0.5 decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5.0 Glyceryl tri (caprylic / capric acid) 15.0 Beeswax 2.0 Decaglyceryl 2.0 pentahydroxy acid 2.0 Isostearic acid 1.0 Aqueous phase Glycerin 4.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water balance (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsifying a water-in-oil type emulsified composition.

Example 20: Sunscreen cream (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-Ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 2.0 Evening primrose extract 0.1 Liquid paraffin 7.0 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 3.0 Cetyl alcohol 4. 0 Condensed hexaglyceryl ricinoleate 0.5 Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether 1.0 Powder phase Titanium oxide 3.0 Aqueous phase Sodium cetyl sulfate 1.0 Stearoylmethyl taurine sodium 0.3 Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 7.0 1,3 -Butylene glycol 5.0 Xanthan gum 0.3 Preservative Suitable amount Purified water Remainder (preparation method) After adding the powder phase to the oil phase, an emulsified composition is prepared according to a conventional emulsification method for a water-in-oil emulsion composition. Was prepared.

Example 21: Emollient cream (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-Ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 1.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Squalane 10.0 Isocetyl myristate 6.0 Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 3 .0 Macadamia nut oil 1.0 Dimethicone 0.2 Cetanol 5.0 Polyoxyethylene 20 Cetyl ether 1.0 Polyoxyethylene tetraoleate 40 sorbit 0.5 Glyceryl monostearate 1.0 Water phase Hydrogenated soybean lecithin 2 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 xanthan gum 0.1 sodium hyaluronate 0.01 citric acid 0.1 sodium citrate 0.4 preservative appropriate amount purified water balance (preparation method) emulsification method of oil-in-water emulsion composition Prepare the emulsified composition according to It was.

Example 22: Beauty Oil (Formulation) Wt% L-Ascorbyl Tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 1.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Isocetyl myristate 10.0 Jojoba oil 5.0 Natural Vitamin E 0.1 Squalane balance ( Preparation method) All components were mixed at room temperature until uniform.

Example 23: Skin lotion (formulation) wt% Oil phase Tetra-2-hexyldecanoate L-ascorbyl 0.1 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Tri (caprylic acid / capric acid) glyceryl 0.1 Polyoxypropylene 4 polyoxy Ethylene 20 Cetyl ether 0.6 Aqueous phase Propylene glycol 10.0 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remainder (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsifying an oil-in-water emulsion composition. .

Example 24: Emulsion (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-Ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 2.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Squalane 5.0 Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate 5.0 Methylpolysiloxane 0.5 Cetyl palmitate 0.5 Behenyl alcohol 1.5 Stearic acid 0.5 Lipophilic glyceryl monostearate 1.0 Polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monostearate 1.0 Polyoxyethylene 40 sorbitol tetraoleate 1.5 Aqueous propylene Glycol 7.0 Xanthan gum 0.1 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water Remainder (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsifying an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

Example 25: Water-in-oil emollient cream (formulation) wt% Oil phase L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 2.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Dimethicone copolyol 0.5 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5.0 Glyceryl tri (caprylic / capric acid) 15.0 Beeswax 2.0 Decaglyceryl 2.0 pentahydroxy acid 2.0 Isostearic acid 1.0 Aqueous phase Glycerin 4.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.01 Preservative Appropriate amount Purified water balance (Preparation method) An emulsified composition was prepared according to a conventional method for emulsifying a water-in-oil type emulsified composition.

Example 26: Sunscreen Cream (Formulation) Weight% Oil Phase L-Ascorbyl Tetra-2-hexyldecanoate 2.0 Coenzyme Q10 0.1 Liquid Paraffin 7.0 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 3.0 Cetyl Alcohol 4. 0 Condensed hexaglyceryl ricinoleate 0.5 Polyoxyethylene cetyl ether 1.0 Powder phase Titanium oxide 3.0 Aqueous phase Sodium cetyl sulfate 1.0 Stearoylmethyl taurine sodium 0.3 Octyl paramethoxycinnamate 7.0 1,3 -Butylene glycol 5.0 Xanthan gum 0.3 Preservative Suitable amount Purified water Remainder (preparation method) After adding the powder phase to the oil phase, an emulsified composition is prepared according to a conventional emulsification method for a water-in-oil emulsion composition. Was prepared.

(Effect of wrinkle improvement)

According to the evaluation method of the wrinkle improving effect shown in Examples 8 to 14 and Comparative Examples 9 to 16, the wrinkle improving effect in the cosmetic formulations of Examples 15 to 26 was examined.

[0039]

[Table 5]

As shown in Table 5, it can be seen that the combined use of L-ascorbyl tetra-2-hexyldecanoate and the antioxidant exhibits a significant wrinkle improving effect. Therefore, it is found that the combined use of the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative and the antioxidant effectively exhibits the skin anti-aging effect. It was also confirmed that the stability of color, odor, etc. was excellent.

[0041]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION By using a L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative in combination with a plant extract having an antioxidant activity or other antioxidants, a high effect of removing active oxygen can be obtained, and L-ascorbine can be obtained. Since the acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative is extremely unlikely to cause the Maillard reaction, a cosmetic having an excellent anti-aging effect on skin, which is excellent in color, odor and stability, can be obtained.

   ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    F-term (reference) 4C083 AA082 AA111 AA112 AA122                       AB242 AC022 AC072 AC122                       AC182 AC211 AC212 AC242                       AC302 AC342 AC422 AC442                       AC782 AC792 AD152 AD172                       AD332 AD352 AD572 AD641                       AD642 AD662 BB47 CC04                       CC05 CC06 CC19 DD27 DD32                       EE12

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A cosmetic comprising an L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative and an antioxidant as essential components. 2. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the branched fatty acid residue of the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative is isopalmitic acid. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the branched fatty acid residue of the L-ascorbic acid tetra-branched fatty acid ester derivative is 2-hexyldecanoic acid. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is a plant extract having antioxidant power. 5. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is coenzyme Q10.