JP3167621B2 - Polyester composite crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a crimped polyester composite yarn suitable for hemp-like woven or knitted fabric.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, hemp-finished fabrics made of synthetic fibers are known. In order to impart a unique crispness and dryness to the yarn to be used, (1) the fibers must be sharply formed at the time of fiber production. To make the cross section into an irregular cross section, hollow or microporous fibers, or further twisting the yarns of these fibers,
(2) applying a strong twist to the yarn; (3) heat setting at a high temperature to cure the individual fibers constituting the yarn; (4) a portion fused to the fibers constituting the yarn. Have been proposed and widely used.

In the case of (1), since special shaping is performed on fibers having an irregular cross section, the cost is increased, and it is necessary to perform twisting. In addition, when bulkiness is required, crimping is required before twisting, which causes an increase in cost. (2)
Is a method conventionally used conventionally, but it requires a twisting step, which increases the cost, and the yarn is strongly bundled, so that a bulky yarn cannot be obtained.
(3) and (4) can be obtained in a single step by setting the heating temperature high during crimping such as false twisting, etc. However, hardening by heat or fusion is difficult if the degree of heating is low. It is difficult to control the temperature, for example, it becomes coarse and hard if it is too strong. In addition, since it is heated at a high temperature in the form of a strongly twisted yarn, it will inevitably lack bulge as a bulky yarn.

As a solution to such a problem,
The bulkiness and the crispness are simultaneously obtained by aligning the filament yarn stretched in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 1-292124 and the undrawn or thick filament yarn and performing the false twist crimping at the same time. Composite crimped yarns have been proposed.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 3-269124 discloses that a polyester thick yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having a different dyeing property from the thick yarn are aligned, and a liquid heat medium provided in a twisting region is provided. By applying false twisting in an extremely low temperature range and uniform processing conditions using a type false twist heater, processed yarn that has a spun-like feel and also has a soft silky tone feeling How to get it has been proposed. Further, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-100930 discloses that a thick marbled bulky yarn having a silk wool feel is obtained by combining and false twisting a polyester thick yarn and a drawn polyester yarn. A method is disclosed.

However, a yarn obtained by a method in which a drawn filament yarn and an undrawn or thick filament yarn are aligned and subjected to false twist crimping at the same time,
It has a two-layer structure in which thick and thin yarns are wound around the drawn yarn alternately in an SZ manner. Due to the appearance of the crimped structure by the drawn yarn and the untwisted bundled portion by the undrawn yarn, a certain amount of bulkiness and sharpness can be obtained. However, the yarns are not sufficiently entangled with each other, and the squeezing during friction causes a displacement of the wrapped yarn referred to as `` zokekoke ''.
There is a problem that some means such as a presser thread and a reheat treatment is required, and sufficient effects cannot be obtained by these treatments.

[0007]

The present inventors have already disclosed a method for producing a composite crimped yarn free of such problems, rich in bulkiness, and having a crisp and dry feeling. The present invention is an improvement of the polyester composite crimped yarn according to the present invention, and provides a polyester composite crimped yarn having no "scratch" and a crisp and dry feeling. With the goal.

[0008]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a composite crimped yarn composed of two polyester filament yarns, wherein an SZ alternating portion in which a partially fused S twist portion and a Z twist portion are alternately repeated. It has a middle portion of a twisted yarn structure and a slab portion formed by triple winding which is partially fused, and has two polyester fibers.
At least one of the filaments has a birefringence of 15 × 1
Polyester unstretched yarn having a size of 0 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ^−3.
To perform two-step stretching under the conditions satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5)
Thus, the obtained polyester composite crimped yarn is a thick and thin yarn . (1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ TDR ≦ MDR × 0.55 (2) TDR = DR ₁ × DR ₂ (3) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR ₁ ≦ MDR × 0.50 (4) HRT ≦ Tc ( 5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, DR ₁ is the first draw ratio, DR ₂ is the second draw ratio, and HRT is the first draw ratio. The temperature (° C.) in the first-stage stretching, the HPT is the temperature (° C.) in the second-stage stretching zone, T
c represents the crystallization temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg represents the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn.

[0009]

[0010]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention has a partially fused SZ alternating twisted yarn structure due to at least one of the two polyester filament yarns constituting the yarn. The composite crimped yarn has a partially fused SZ alternating twisted yarn structure in the middle of the road, and has a partially fused slab portion.

In the present invention, in order to partially fuse the composite crimped yarn, it is preferable that at least one of the two polyester filament yarns is a thick and thin yarn having an undrawn thick part. Particularly preferred thick and thin yarns are obtained by stretching a polyester unstretched yarn having a birefringence of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ⁻³ in two steps under the conditions satisfying the following expressions (1) to (5). The obtained thick and thin thread.

(1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ TDR ≦ MDR × 0.55 (2) TDR = DR ₁ × DR ₂ (3) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR ₁ ≦ MDR × 0.50 (4) HRT ≦ Tc (5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, DR ₁ is the first draw ratio, DR ₂ is the second draw ratio, HRT is the temperature (° C.) in the first stage stretching, HPT is the temperature (° C.) in the second stage stretching zone, T
c represents the crystallization temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg represents the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn.

The thick and thin yarn preferably has a thick portion in which the frequency of yarn spotting wavelengths of 30 cm or less is 45% or more, and the preferable physical properties of the thick and thin yarn are that the thick portion has a crystallization temperature of 5-1.
5%, birefringence: 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , crystallization temperature of the thin part is 18 to 28%, birefringence: 60 × 10 ^{−3 to} 20
0 × 10 ⁻³ , preferably, the thick part has a crystallization temperature of 10%
The birefringence is about 20 × 10 ⁻³ , the crystallization temperature of the thin portion is about 24%, and the birefringence is about 160 × 10 ⁻³ .

The thick and thin yarn used in the present invention has a spotted wavelength of 30.
In the case where a thick portion having a frequency of less than 45 cm is less than 45%, it approaches a normal drawn yarn, and partial fusion at the thick portion by false twisting described later becomes incomplete.

In the present invention, the thick and thin yarn preferably used is made of a polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate and has a birefringence of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ^−3. The drawn yarn is used as the supply yarn. When the birefringence is less than 15 × 10 ⁻³ , not only the thick part (unstretched part) becomes too long in the first-stage stretching area employing a low stretching ratio, but also the thick part becomes false twisting, dyeing, etc. It becomes brittle due to heat treatment or alkali treatment, and it tends to impair processing stability and quality. When the birefringence exceeds 40 × 10 ^-3 , the difference in shrinkage between the thick part and the thin part is small and lacks swelling in the hand. Moreover, partial fusion of the thick portion performed at the time of false twist crimping is unlikely to occur, and a sharp feeling and a strong slab cannot be obtained.

Next, the polyester undrawn yarn is drawn in two steps. The heating temperature in the first-stage drawing is set to be equal to or lower than the crystallization temperature Tc of the undrawn yarn, and the draw ratio DR1 is MDR ×
Stretching is performed at a low value of 0.40 to MDR × 0.50.
The MDR may vary depending on the difference in the birefringence of the undrawn yarn used.
Therefore, it is desirable to set such that the residual elongation of the thick and thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing is 70 to 110%. The thick and thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing has a relatively long thick portion, a high elongation and a high shrinkage ratio, and a large difference in fineness between the thick portion and the thin portion.

The thick and thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing is subjected to the second-stage drawing and has a total draw ratio TDR of MDR × 0.45 to MDR ×
Add stretched at a draw ratio DR ₂ to be 0.55, the heat treatment at the second stage the glass transition temperature Tg greater than or equal to the set to give a shrinkage of interest at a draw zone a crystallization temperature Tc or lower. By this second-stage stretching, a thick and thin yarn having a strong contrast of light and shade and a short and thick thin portion and thin portion dispersed randomly can be obtained.

In the present invention, the two polyester filament yarns are a combination of a thick and a thin yarn, and a thick and a fine filament having a different dyeing property or a different polyester filament yarn with a different elongation. It is preferable that the combination is a combination of polyester filament yarns having different dyeing properties such as ionic dye-dyeable or disperse dye room-temperature dyeable, because the thick and thin yarns are high elongation yarns. Is a preferable combination.

As the polyester filament yarn dyeable with an ionic dye, a group dyeable with an ionic dye in a molecule, for example, 0.5 to 5 sodium sulfoisophthalic acid is used.
Filament yarns composed of about 10 mol% of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate and the like are exemplified. Further, as a disperse dye room temperature dyeable polyester filament yarn, 10
Polyester filament yarn dyed with a disperse dye at a temperature of 0 ° C. or less, for example, 1.5 to 3.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 2.0 to 7.0 of adipic acid.
Filament yarns composed of about 0 mol% of copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate and the like are exemplified.

The polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention is prepared by using a false twisting machine to supply one of the two polyester filament yarns at a constant tension and supply the other in an oversupplied state, and ply the yarn in the twisted region. It is manufactured by performing false twist crimping while twisting at an angle of 35 ° or more. In the twisting region, a yarn having a high feeding tension becomes a core, and a yarn having a low feeding tension is wound around the core yarn to form a sheath. Then, when the yarn serving as the sheath has a smaller yarn feeding tension, that is, when the overfeed amount is higher, in this state, the twisting goes back, the joining point rises, the joining angle increases, and the sheath side ends up. Is reciprocated while winding around the core yarn to form a slab portion by triple winding.

When the polyester filament yarn is a thick and thin yarn, the thick and thin yarn is partially fused by strong twisting under a high temperature state in a subsequent false twisting step. When it is untwisted,
In addition to the untwisted portion, in places where there are many thick parts of thick and thin yarn, a strong untwisted part is formed to fuse the filaments together to maintain the bundled state, but in the part where there are many thin parts, excessive untwisting occurs. Due to the twisting, the twist opposite to the untwisted portion is added. When the yarn serving as the sheath is oversupplied in a range of less than 15% of the overfeed amount, the S twisted portion and the Z twisted portion are alternately repeated. When the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure is formed over the entire yarn, and the yarn serving as the sheath is oversupplied with an overfeed amount of 15% to less than 60%, a middle portion of the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure and a slab portion formed by triple winding are formed. . If the plying angle is less than 35 °, the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure with good convergence will not be obtained.

When the polyester filament yarn is a thick filament and a polyester filament yarn dyeable with an ionic dye or a disperse dye at room temperature,
The ionic dye dyeable or disperse dye room temperature dyeable polyester filament yarn is in a partially fused state while being sandwiched between the thick and thin yarns. At the point, it becomes a strong untwisted part due to fusion of filaments and forms a bunched state, and the part with many thin parts is over-twisted, so that the twist opposite to the untwisted part is added And becomes the SZ alternate twisted yarn structure portion.

At this time, since the thick yarn is a high elongation yarn, the elongation is different between the thick yarn and the polyester filament yarn dyeable by ionic dye or disperse dye at normal temperature. Due to the difference, at least 50% or more of the yarn surface area of the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure portion, the thick yarn as the high elongation yarn is replaced with the ionic dye dyeable or disperse dye room temperature dyeable polyester filament which is a low elongation yarn. It is located in the outer layer of the yarn and has different dyeability based on the dyeability of the thick filament and the polyester filament yarn dyeable with an ionic dye or a disperse dye at room temperature.

Also, in a slab portion formed by triple winding a yarn serving as a sheath when the yarn serving as a sheath is oversupplied with an overfeed amount of 15% to less than 60%, a thick fine yarn is used in the same manner as in the road. The slab portion is fixed by the fusion between the thick portions and the wound structure thereof, and the slab portion becomes a strong untwisted portion and is held in a bundled state. When supplied, it is possible to obtain a composite crimped yarn having only the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure as a whole without slabs. If the overfeed amount is 60% or more, the slab lacks convergence, and “sludge” occurs.

Thereafter, if necessary, the yarn form is fixed by heating to obtain the polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention. The temperature of the heating twist region in the false twisting process is a temperature lower than the softening point of the filament yarn constituting polymer,
The temperature is preferably 170 to 237 ° C. and can be appropriately selected depending on the degree of partial fusion.

FIG. 1 shows a partial side view of the polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, a represents a Z twisted portion, b represents an S twisted portion, and c represents an untwisted portion. FIG. 2 is a partial side view of the polyester composite crimped yarn having a slab portion of the present invention.

When the polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention is woven and knitted using a weft or a warp, or both a warp and a weft, and dyed and finished to form a woven or knitted fabric, the same process as in a normal polyester woven or knitted fabric is performed. In addition to the crispness and dryness by applying an alkali weight loss treatment to the polyester filament yarn, which has a drape property, and further has a thick filament and a dyeable ionic dye or a disperse dye normal temperature dyeable polyester fiber, A woven or knitted fabric excellent in a different color effect expressed by a difference in dyeability can be obtained.

[0028]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 Tg measured by dilatometry was 72 ° C. and Tc measured by a scanning calorimeter was 129.
° C, birefringence 21 × 10 ^-3 , fineness 115d / 36f
Using a polyester undrawn yarn having a draw ratio of 1.6
The first step stretching is performed 47 times, at a temperature of 100 ° C., and then the second step stretching is performed at 105 ° C. at a draw ratio of 1.01 times. A thick fine thread having a fineness of 70d / 36f was obtained.

Using the two thick yarns, a false twisting machine (LS-6, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) was used to apply a tension of 8 g to one of the core thin yarns with a magnet tensor (tensor exit side). And the other thick and thin yarn serving as a sheath is supplied from a position 20 cm away from the core yarn by a guide in an oversupply state with an overfeed amount of 20% from the feed roller.
The two thick yarns are combined, and the first heating temperature 210 ° C. and the first delivery roller speed 80 under the processing conditions shown in Table 1.
False twisting was performed at a m / min of 2500 T / M (Z twisting) and the heat was relaxed at 200 ° C. by 8% with a second heater and a second delivery roller to obtain a polyester composite crimped yarn.

Next, the obtained composite crimped yarn was wefted at a rate of 83 yarns / dimension using a 20-gauge tubular knitted fabric and polyester regular yarn as warp yarns, and alkali-treated.
5% by weight reduction processing was performed, and the convergence, hand, slab form and the like were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Examples 2 to 8, Comparative Examples 1 to 3) Example 1
In Example 1, except that the conditions shown in Table 1 were changed.
In the same manner as in the above, a composite crimped yarn was obtained to obtain a woven fabric, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1. In Examples 2, 3, and 4, the slab portion becomes a white linear shape when dyed with a cationic dye, and the slab portion becomes a dark linear shape when dyed with a disperse dye. In Example 5, the reverse is true. When forming the slab, as in Comparative Examples 1 and 3, when the number of slabs increases, the adhesiveness of the yarn becomes weak, and a composite crimped yarn having a crispness and a dryness of the present invention and without "scratch" cannot be obtained. Was. In Comparative Example 2, the entanglement of the yarn was very poor.

[0033]

[Table 1]

Example 9 Using a false twisting machine (LS-6, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.), the thick and thin yarn obtained in Example 1 was used as a yarn serving as a sheath, and the overfeed amount was 10% from a feed roller. In the oversupply state, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester filament yarn is supplied as a core yarn at a tension of 8 g (tensor exit side) by a magnet tensor, and the two yarns are combined to form a first delivery. Roller speed 80m / min, first heater temperature 210 ° C, number of false twists 2
False twisting was performed at 500 T / M (Z twisting), and the heat was relaxed at 200 ° C. by 8% with a second heater and a second delivery roller to obtain a polyester heterochromatic composite crimped yarn.

Next, using this heterochromatic composite crimped yarn,
0 gauge tubular knitted fabric and polyester regular yarn, warped at 83 yarns / dimension, and 1
5% by weight reduction processing was performed, and the convergence and the feeling were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Examples 10 to 12, Comparative Examples 4 and 5) A composite crimped yarn was obtained as a woven fabric in the same manner as in Example 9 except that the conditions shown in Table 2 were changed. Table 2 shows the evaluation results. In Comparative Example 4, the alternate winding of the two yarns was weak and lacked convergence, and in Comparative Example 5, the yarns were not entangled at all.

[0037]

[Table 2]

[0038]

Industrial Applicability The polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention has a sharpness and dryness without strong rough and hard feelings like a yarn in fusion false twisting at a high temperature, and is excellent in form stability. There is no "stickiness", and the polyester filament yarn used is a thick yarn having a thick part, so that it has high deep color, and also uses ionic dye dyeable or disperse dye normal temperature dyeable polyester filament yarn. When it is done, it becomes a yarn suitable for hemp-like woven and knitted fabric having an excellent different color effect.
Further, the polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention can be obtained only by false twisting, and can be obtained at a very low cost because no special additional step is required.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a partial side view of an example of a polyester composite crimped yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a partial side view of an example of a polyester composite crimped yarn having a slab portion of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 a Z twisted part b S twisted part c Untwisted part d Slab part

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Shoji Kanaya 4-1-1, Sunadabashi, Higashi-ku, Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture Inside Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Product Development Research Center (72) Inventor Takashi Uchida Tenichibashi, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka No.8-30, Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Osaka Branch (56) References JP-A-57-29628 (JP, A) JP-A-56-26029 (JP, A) JP-A-57-39248 (JP, A) JP-A-58-91839 (JP, A) JP-A-63-309642 (JP, A) JP-A-7-189061 (JP, A) JP-A-57-71437 (JP, A) JP-A-7-252733 (JP, A) JP-A-56-9433 (JP, A) JP-A-63-112741 (JP, A) JP-A-56-134222 (JP, A) Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 53-78244 (JP, U) 58) Field surveyed (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 3/22-3/28 D02G 1/00- 1/02 D02J 1/22

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A composite crimped yarn composed of two polyester filament yarns, the partially crimped S
The middle part of the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure in which the twisted part and the Z twisted part are alternately repeated, and the slab part by triple winding which is partially fused.
Has at least two of the polyester filament yarns
One has a birefringence of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ⁻³ .
A certain polyester undrawn yarn satisfies the following formulas (1) to (5)
Thick yarn obtained by two-stage drawing under the following conditions:
Polyester composite crimped yarn . (1) MDR × 0.45 ≦ TDR ≦ MDR × 0.55 (2) TDR = DR ₁ × DR ₂ (3) MDR × 0.40 ≦ DR ₁ ≦ MDR × 0.50 (4) HRT ≦ Tc ( 5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, DR ₁ is the first draw ratio, DR ₂ is the second draw ratio, and HRT is the first draw ratio. The temperature (° C.) in the first-stage stretching, the HPT is the temperature (° C.) in the second-stage stretching zone, T
c represents the crystallization temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg represents the glass transition temperature (° C.) of the undrawn yarn. 2. The two polyester filament yarns,
The polyester composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, which is a polyester filament yarn having different dyeing properties. 3. The method of claim 2, wherein the two polyester filament yarns are:
Polyester filament yarns with different elongations
The polyester composite crimped yarn according to claim 2 . 4. The polyester composite crimped yarn according to claim 2 , wherein the high elongation yarn is located in the outer layer of the low elongation yarn in at least 50% of the yarn surface area of the SZ alternating twisted yarn structure portion. .