JP3370431B2 - Method for producing composite crimped yarn - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester composite crimped yarn suitable for a linen-like woven or knitted fabric having a linen-like feel and bulkiness.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, hemp cloths made of synthetic fibers are well known, and in order to give the yarn to be used the sharpness and dryness peculiar to hemp, A cross-section is imparted to form a modified cross-section fiber, or in addition, the fiber is made into a hollow fiber or microporous. In addition, additional twisting is applied because the feeling of dryness and dryness is insufficient. (2) A strong twist is applied to the yarn to give a sharp and dry feeling. (3) Heat setting is performed at a high temperature to cure the individual fibers forming the yarn. (4) Various methods have been proposed and widely used, such as forming fused portions between fibers constituting yarns.

With respect to (1), since the fiber is subjected to a special treatment such as a modified cross section, the cost becomes high and it is necessary to carry out additional twisting. Further, when bulkiness is required, crimping is required before additional twisting, which causes a high cost. (2)
Is a conventionally used means, but the cost is high because the twisting process is required, and the yarn is strongly bundled, so that a bulky yarn cannot be obtained.
Regarding (3) and (4), it can be obtained in a single step by setting the heating temperature to a high value during crimping such as false twisting. The feeling is poor, and if it is too strong, it becomes difficult to control the temperature, such as coarse hardness, and since it is heated at high temperature in a strong twisted yarn,
It is inevitably lacking in bulge as a bulky yarn.

As a solution to such a problem, bulkiness is obtained by aligning drawn multifilament yarns and undrawn or thick multifilament yarns and simultaneously performing false twist crimping. A composite crimped yarn having a crisp feeling has been proposed. For example, JP-A 1-2
No. 92124, a false twisted yarn made of a highly oriented polyester undrawn yarn having a small breaking elongation and a thick thin undrawn yarn having a large breaking elongation are entangled with each other and further heat-treated to give a sharp feeling. It has been proposed to obtain a linen-like processed yarn that is rich in refreshing feeling.

Further, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 3-269124, a liquid heat medium temporary provision provided in a heating region is prepared by aligning a polyester thick yarn and a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having different dyeability from the thick yarn. By using false twisting with a twisting heater in the extremely low temperature range and under uniform heating conditions, a process with a soft silky feel while having a span-like feel Methods for obtaining yarn have been proposed.

Further, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-100930 discloses that
A method is disclosed for obtaining a marbling-like bulky processed yarn having a silk wool-like texture by subjecting a polyester thick and thin yarn and a polyester drawn yarn to a twisting and false twisting process.

[0007]

However, a yarn obtained by a method of aligning a drawn multifilament yarn and an undrawn or thick multifilament yarn and simultaneously performing false twist crimping is The drawn yarn is a two-layered structure in which thick and thin yarns are wound in an SZ alternating pattern, and the crimped structure of the drawn yarn and the ununtwisted and focused part of the undrawn yarn cause a certain degree of bulkiness and crispness. Although it has
The entanglement between the yarns is insufficient, and the winding yarn called "Zukoke" is displaced due to ironing during friction, and it is difficult to put it into practical use as it is, and some means such as restraining yarn and reheat treatment are required. The sufficient effect is not obtained even by the treatment of. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a composite crimped yarn which is free from such problems and which is rich in bulkiness and has a crisp feeling and a dry feeling.

[0008]

The gist of the present invention is 30c.
It is characterized in that a plurality of thick thin yarns having a thick portion with a frequency of a mottling wavelength of m or less of 45% or more are used, and a false twist crimping process is performed while piling at a plying angle of 35 ° or more. And a method for producing a composite crimped yarn.

The thick thin yarn used in the present invention is a polyester undrawn yarn having a birefringence of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ⁻³ , which satisfies the following conditions (1) to (5). It is preferable to use the thick and thin yarn obtained by drawing in two stages.

(1) TDR = MDR × (0.45 to 0.55) (2) TDR = DR ₁ × DR ₂ (3) DR ₁ = MDR × (0.40 to 0.50) (4) HRT ≦ Tc (5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR ₁ is the first draw ratio, DR ₂ is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, HRT is the temperature in the first stage stretching (° C), HPT is the temperature in the second stage stretching zone (° C), T
c is the crystallization temperature (° C) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg is the glass transition temperature (° C) of the undrawn yarn.

In the present invention, the thick spot yarn wavelength is 30c.
When the frequency of m or less is less than 45%, it approaches an ordinary drawn yarn, and partial fusion of a thick portion due to false twisting described later becomes incomplete.

The preferred physical properties of the thick yarn used in the present invention are that the crystallinity of the thick part is 5 to 15%, more preferably about 10%, and the details are about 18 to 28%.
More preferably, it is about 24%. The thick part has a birefringence of 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 50 × 10 ⁻³ , more preferably about 20 × 10 ⁻³ , and the birefringence of the fine portion is 60 ×.
10 ⁻³ to 200 × 10 ⁻³ , more preferably 160 × 1
It is about 0 ^-3 .

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to use a plurality of thick and thin yarns and to perform false twist crimping treatment while making the yarns at a compounding angle of 35 ° or more. By having such an angle, when the twist goes back during twisting, the thick thin thread with a large thread feeding tension is used as the core, and the thread with a low thread feeding tension is around it. It is wound to form a sheath portion. In that state, when the twist goes back and the compounding point approaches the yarn supplying side, the compounding angle becomes large, the supply tension of the sheath side yarn becomes larger than the core side supply tension, and the winding form reverses. To do. This state occurs at a random frequency, and the thick and thin yarns are wound alternately with each other. The individual multifilaments that make up the alternate winding yarn are interspersed with the parts where the thick parts are adjacent to the details, the parts where the details are adjacent to each other, and the parts where the thick parts are adjacent to each other. , In the subsequent false twisting process, the thick portion is partially fused due to the strength of the twisting under high temperature conditions, and when untwisting, the fibers in the thick portion are often Due to the fusion, it becomes a strong untwisted portion and remains in a focused state.
On the other hand, the fine fiber portion is untwisted and has a bulky state. Since the untwisted portion is overtwisted, the twist opposite to the untwisted portion is applied, and the alternate winding yarn becomes the SZ alternate twisted yarn shape. Further, if necessary, the yarn form is fixed by heating to obtain the composite crimped false-twisted yarn which is the object of the present invention.

In the present invention, the polyester undrawn yarn used is made of polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and has a birefringence of 15 × 10 5.
It is necessary to use polyester unstretched yarn of ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ⁻³ as the supply yarn. Birefringence is 15 × 1
When it is less than 0 ⁻³ , not only the thick portion (unstretched portion) becomes too long in the first-stage stretching region where a low stretch ratio is adopted, but also this thick portion is subjected to heat treatment such as false twisting and dyeing. The alkali treatment causes embrittlement, which tends to impair processing stability and quality.
This is because the molecular orientation of the thick part is almost equal to the orientation of the undrawn yarn,
If the birefringence is less than 15 × 10 ⁻³ , the alkali weight loss rate will be remarkably faster than the finely-aligned details, and it will be difficult to industrially control the weight loss rate. On the other hand, when the birefringence exceeds 40 × 10 ⁻³ , the difference in shrinkage between the thick portion and the small portion is small and the bulge is lacking in texture, and the thick twist applied during the false twist crimping process described later. Partial fusion of the part is unlikely to occur, and a sharp feeling cannot be obtained.

Next, in the present invention, in order to form the thick portion and the details in a dispersed manner, two-stage stretching is performed. The heating temperature in the first stage drawing is set to be equal to or lower than the crystallization temperature of the undrawn yarn, and the drawing ratio DR ₁ is set to a lower value of MDR × (0.40 to 0.50) and drawing is performed. Since the utilization rate of MDR varies depending on the difference in birefringence of the undrawn yarn used, it is desirable to set the residual elongation of the thick and thin yarn obtained in the first stage drawing to be 70 to 110%. . The thick thin yarn obtained by the first-stage drawing has a relatively long thick portion, high elongation and high shrinkage,
The thread has a large difference in fineness between the thick part and the details.

The thick yarn obtained by the first stage drawing has a total draw ratio TDR of MDR × (0.45 to 0.5) in the second stage drawing.
5) Additional stretching is performed at a stretching ratio DR ₂ of 5), and heat treatment is performed at a temperature not lower than the glass transition temperature and not higher than the crystallization temperature, which is set so as to give the desired shrinkage in the second stage stretching region. By this second-stage drawing, thick and thin yarns having a strong contrast in dyeing and having short thick portions and small details and randomly dispersed can be obtained.

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings.
1, 2, and 3 are diagrams showing an example of a false twist crimper used in the method for producing a composite crimped yarn of the present invention. In the figure, 1
Is a feed roller, 2 is a magnet tensor, 3, 4, 5
Is a supply guide, 6 is a first heater, 7 is a spindle or friction unit, 8 is a first delivery roller, 9 is a second heater, 10 is a second delivery roller, 11, 12,
13 is a winding guide, 14 is a winding roller, A and B are supply yarns (thick and thin yarns), C is an alternate winding yarn, D is a composite crimped yarn,
X represents a yarn combining point, and θ represents a yarn combining angle.

In FIG. 1, the thick thin yarn A is supplied from the feed roller 1 through the guides 4 and 5 to the first heater 6. Similarly, the thin yarn B is also supplied to the contact-type first heater 6 via the magnet tensor 2 and the guides 3 and 5. In this case, at the yarn combining point X of the thick and thin yarns A and B, it is necessary that the thick and thin yarns A and B are combined in a state of having an angle of 35 ° or more. In order to feed the thick and thin yarns A and B at such an angle, it is preferable that the distance between the yarn feeding guides 3 and 4 is 2 cm or more. The thick thin yarns A and B can be supplied by separating the aligning yarn from the feed roller 1 (see FIG. 2) or the aligning yarn from the magnet tensor 2 (see FIG. 3) with the yarn feeding guides 3 and 4. It is possible as well. In either case, the yarn tension tends to be high in the vicinity of the compounding point X during high-speed processing, so it is necessary to select a supply speed that matches the processing speed. In particular, it is preferable to use the friction unit 7 to supply the thick and thin yarns A and B in the case of friction false twisting so that the draw ratio is in the range of 0.8 to 1.0. By having such an angle, when the twist goes back during twisting, either A or B having a large yarn feeding tension is used as a core, and a yarn having a small yarn feeding tension is wound around it. And a sheath portion is formed. In that state, when the twist goes back and the compounding point approaches the yarn supplying side, the compounding angle becomes large, the supply tension of the sheath side yarn becomes larger than the core side supply tension, and the winding form reverses. To do.
This state occurs at a random frequency, and the thick and thin yarns A and B are supplied to the first heater 6 as the alternately wound yarn C wound around each other.

In this case, in the individual multifilaments constituting the alternate winding yarn C, the thick portion is adjacent to the detail, the detail is adjacent to each other, and the thick portion is adjacent to each other. The alternating winding yarn C, which is heated while being twisted in the first heater 6, is in a state where the thick portion is partially fused by the strong twisting under the high temperature state, and the spindle or When the fibers are untwisted through the friction unit 7, the untwisted portions of strength are left in a converged state due to the mutual fusion of the fibers in the portion where there are many fibers in the thick portion, and the detailed fiber portions are untwisted. Exhibits bulky state. Since the untwisted portion is overtwisted, a twist opposite to that of the untwisted portion is added, and the alternate winding yarn C is an SZ alternate twisted yarn shape having a concavo-convex feeling composed of a bundling portion and a bulky portion. Become.

The SZ alternating twisted yarn-shaped composite crimped yarn D thus obtained is taken up by the first delivery roller 8 and then passed through the second heater 9 to fix the yarn form to the second delivery roller. Winding roller 1 through belly roller 10
It is wound by 4. First heater 6 in this case
The temperature is preferably not lower than the glass transition point of the polymer and lower than the melting point, preferably 170 to 237 ° C., and can be appropriately selected depending on the degree of partial fusion. Further, when the false twist number (D / Y) becomes low, the processing stability and the feeling of unevenness of the composite crimped yarn deteriorate, so it is preferable to set D / Y to 1.7 times or more.
The second heater 9 is a non-contact type, and the composite crimped yarn is thermally relaxed. In this case, a temperature of 150 ° C. or higher is sufficient. Further, the speeds of the first delivery roller 8 and the second delivery roller 10 may be appropriately selected so that the speeds are in a relaxed state.

The composite crimped yarn D thus obtained is
When weaving using both weft yarns, warp yarns, and weft yarns, and dyeing and finishing to form a fabric, alkali weight reduction treatment is performed in the same manner as ordinary polyester fabrics to provide a sharp feel and a dry feel, as well as drapeability. The obtained fabric is obtained. In this case, of course, a knitted fabric is possible.

The present invention will be specifically described with reference to the following examples.

[0023]

【Example】

Examples 1 to 7, Comparative Example 1 Glass transition temperature measured by dilatometry method is 72 ° C., crystallization temperature measured by scanning calorimeter is 129 ° C., birefringence is 21 × 10 ⁻³ , fineness. 165d / 72f of polyester unstretched yarn, the draw ratio is 1.647 times, the first stage drawing at a temperature of 100 ° C., then the draw ratio is 1.01 times and the temperature is 105 ° C.
In the second step 103d / 72f, the thin yarn 103d / 72f which has been drawn in the second stage and has a thick portion with a frequency of 48% that is 30 cm or less of the uneven wavelength
Got Two thick yarns are supplied to the false twist crimping machine (LS-6, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) shown in FIG. 1, one of which is 10% over-supplied by the feed roller 1 and the other of which is the magnet tensor 2. Is applied with a tension of 8 g (at the exit side of the tensor), two thick and thin yarns are combined, false twisting is performed at a speed of 80 m / min under the processing conditions of Table 1, and 15% heat is applied in the second heater section. It was relaxed to obtain the composite crimped yarn of the present invention. Next, the 20 gauge tubular knitted fabric was subjected to 15% weight reduction processing with alkali, and the feeling and dyeability were compared, and the results in Table 1 were obtained. The processing methods are Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1. When the temperature of the first heater is low, the adhesiveness is low and 170 ° C. or higher is preferable (Example 3). When the false twist number is low, the irregularity of the composite yarn is low. Is decreased and 1500 t / m or more is preferable (Example 4).
Examples 1, 2, and 5 were good in sizing property, unevenness of the composite yarn, sharpness, swelling, and bathochromic property. Comparative Example 1
The normal drawn yarn was used instead of the thick thin yarn, and the composite crimped yarn of the present invention could not be obtained even if the first heater was raised to 230 ° C. without adhesion. In Example 6, according to the method shown in FIG. 2, two undrawn yarns in a 10% over-supply state were separated and supplied at intervals of 10 cm by the supply guides 3 and 4, and while combining, according to Example 1, It is a composite crimped yarn obtained by crimping, which has a bundling property, unevenness of the composite yarn,
The sharpness, swelling and bathochromic properties were all good.

In Example 7, by the method shown in FIG. 3, two undrawn yarns were fed in an aligned state with a tension of 8 g (at the tensor exit side) and separated by the feed guides 3 and 4 at intervals of 10 cm.
Then, a composite crimped yarn obtained by crimping in accordance with Example 1 while being combined with yarn, which has good bundleability, unevenness of the composite yarn, sharpness, swelling, and bathochromic property. there were.

[0025]

[Table 1]

(Embodiment 8) In accordance with Embodiment 1, as a thick and thin yarn, a composite crimping process using two yarns of polyester, semi-dull, 100d / 36f, type A724 (atypical cross section),
A composite crimped yarn having good sizing property, unevenness of the composite yarn, crispness, swelling and bathochromism was obtained.

(Example 9) In accordance with Example 1, as a thick and thin thread, a composite crimping process was carried out using two yarns of polyester, semi-dull, 100d / 72f, type A714 (round cross section),
A composite crimped yarn having good sizing property, unevenness of the composite yarn, crispness, swelling and bathochromism was obtained.

(Examples 10 to 14, Comparative Example 2) Example 1
The same two thick yarns used in the above were fed to the feed roller 1 of the friction false twisting machine (FK draw false twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd.), and the processing conditions shown in Table 2 were applied at a speed of 200 m / min. Friction false twisting was performed, and heat treatment was performed at a temperature of 200 ° C. under a 10% overfeed by the second heater 9 to obtain the composite crimped yarn of the present invention. Next, the 20-gauge tubular knitted fabric was subjected to 15% weight reduction processing with alkali, and the feeling and dyeability were compared, and the results in Table 2 were obtained. In each of the examples, the sizing property, the unevenness of the composite yarn, the sharpness, the bulge, and the bathochromic property were good. Comparative example 2
The normal drawn yarn was used instead of the thick thin yarn, and the composite crimped yarn of the present invention could not be obtained even if the first heater was raised to 230 ° C. without adhesion.

In Example 14, the thick yarn A is fed to the feed roller 1 and the thick yarn B is fed to the magnet tensor by the method shown in FIG. 1, and separated by the yarn feeding guides 3 and 4 at intervals of 20 mm. A crimping process was performed according to Example 10 while blending to obtain a composite crimped yarn. The composite crimped yarn had good sizing property, unevenness, sharpness, swelling and bathochromic property.

[0030]

[Table 2]

(Example 15) In accordance with Example 10, two polyester modified cross-section yarns of SD100d / 36f were used as thick and thin yarns, and as a result of complex crimping, particularly excellent sharpness, bundling property, and complexness were obtained. A composite crimped yarn having good unevenness of the yarn, swelling feeling and bathochromic property was obtained.

[0032]

The composite crimped yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention is partially bonded at a relatively low temperature below the softening point of the polyester fiber, so that it is subjected to a fusion false twist crimping process at a high temperature. The yarn is suitable for a hemp-like woven or knitted fabric, which has a dry feeling and a dry feeling without the feeling of fluffiness (strong feeling of coarseness) of the thread. In addition, since the fibers constituting the yarn are joined in a partial and random state, the yarn is excellent in morphological stability and does not cause misalignment of the composite yarn such as "zukkoke" in the subsequent process. . Also, since the fibers used are thick and thin yarns with thick portions, they have high bathochromism and are suitable for black formal materials. Further, the effect is large, for example, it can be obtained only by the false twist crimping step and does not require a special additional step, so that the cost is extremely low. Further, by using the friction false twisting process for the crimp false twisting process, the productivity can be further increased.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a false twist crimper used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing another example of the false twist crimper used in the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view showing another example of the false twist crimper used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

1 Feed Roller 2 Magnet Tensor 3, 4, 5 Supply Guide 6 First Heater 7 Spindle or Friction Unit 8 First Delivery Roller 9 Second Heater 10 Second Delivery Roller 11, 12, 13 Winding Guide 14 Winding Roller A, B Supply Thread (thin thread) C Alternate winding thread D Composite crimped thread X Combined point θ Combined angle

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Hiromi Honnaga 4-chome, Sunadabashi, Higashi-ku, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture 60-60, Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. (72) Inventor, Yasuo Takada 4-chome, Sunadabashi, Higashi-ku, Nagoya, Aichi Prefecture No. 60 Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Product Development Research Center (72) Inventor Yoshihiko Sano 4-1-60 Sunadabashi, Higashi-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi Prefecture Mitsubishi Rayon Co. Product Development Research Center (72) Inventor Hirokazu Nishizawa Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture 2-3-18 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka Branch, Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. (56) Reference JP-A 63-152432 (JP, A) JP-A 5-239714 (JP, A) JP-A 3-269124 ( JP, A) JP 63-152431 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 1/00-1/20 D02J 1/00-1/22

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. The frequency of yarn spot wavelengths of 30 cm or less is 45%.
The above is the use of a plurality of thick yarns in which the thick portion remains,
A method for producing a composite crimped yarn, which comprises subjecting a false twist crimping treatment to the compounding yarn at a laminating angle of not less than °. 2. The birefringence is 15 × 10 ⁻³ to 40 × 10 ^−3.
The method for producing a composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein a thick thin yarn obtained by two-stage stretching of the polyester undrawn yarn which is No. 2 under the conditions satisfying the following formulas (1) to (5) is used. (1) TDR = MDR × (0.45 to 0.55) (2) TDR = DR ₁ × DR ₂ (3) DR ₁ = MDR × (0.40 to 0.50) (4) HRT ≦ Tc ( 5) Tg ≦ HPT ≦ Tc where TDR is the total draw ratio, DR ₁ is the first draw ratio, DR ₂ is the second draw ratio, MDR is the maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn, and HRT is the first draw ratio. The temperature in the first stage stretching (° C), HPT is the temperature in the second stage stretching region (° C), T
c is the crystallization temperature (° C) of the undrawn yarn, and Tg is the glass transition temperature (° C) of the undrawn yarn. 3. The method for producing a composite crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the false twist crimping treatment is performed by a friction false twist method.