JP3251339B2 - Manufacturing method of silky tone specially processed yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a silky-tone specially processed yarn suitable for yarn dyeing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art There are two methods for coloring a fabric: yarn dyeing (hereinafter referred to as "yarn dyeing") in the state of yarn before forming into a fabric, and counter dyeing (hereinafter referred to as "post dyeing") after forming the fabric. Post-dyeing is generally widely used in terms of cost and quality stability. One of the factors that is unsuitable for pre-dyeing is that when the yarn is dyed with cheese, dye spots (spots) easily occur between the inner and outer layers of the cheese due to the heat shrinkage of the yarn. Therefore, in order to prevent the occurrence of spots between the inner and outer layers of the cheese and to form a yarn that can be dyed, it is necessary to use a yarn with low shrinkage.

[0003] On the other hand, for the purpose of pursuing silkiness in recent years, many different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns capable of imparting swelling due to yarn length difference to synthetic fibers have been proposed. This hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber has a yarn length difference due to the hetero-shrinkage effect due to heat treatment after forming into a fabric, and can provide a silky feeling. For this reason, at present, it is not possible to sufficiently exert the different shrinkage effect due to being restricted by the fabric structure.

In order to cope with such a situation, a method of producing a different contraction effect at a yarn stage has been proposed.
Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-38538 proposes a method for producing a special crimped yarn in which a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to develop a yarn length difference, and then subjected to false twisting. However,
In this method, the yarn is subjected to a high-tensile heat treatment in the false twisting and twisting region, so that the yarn length difference generated during the relaxation heat treatment is reduced during false twisting, and the resulting processed yarn has sufficient differential shrinkage effect. Has the drawback that it cannot be used for

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems, and enables the production of silky-tone specially processed yarns which are capable of fully exerting the effect of differential shrinkage and which are suitable for yarn-dying. It is a technical task to provide a method.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, it has been found that if heat treatment is performed on the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber under a low tension, mild heat treatment is achieved. With the knowledge that low-shrinkage silky tone specially processed yarns with excellent form stability with gloss and swelling can be obtained,
The present invention has been reached.

That is, the present invention has the following configuration. (1) Consisting of a high-shrinkage filament group and a low-shrinkage filament group, the hot-shrinkage ratio of the yarn is 10% or more, and the difference in hot-water shrinkage ratio between the two filament groups is 5% or more. The filament is subjected to a bundle relaxation heat treatment under a tension of 0.06 g / d or less.
A method for producing a silky-tone specially processed yarn, wherein the hot water shrinkage ratio of the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is 3% or less. (2) A method for producing a silky tone specially processed yarn, characterized in that the processed yarn obtained in the above (1) is subjected to a fluid jetting process.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the first invention is to provide a low-shrinkage silky tone specially processed yarn by subjecting a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn to a bunching / relaxation heat treatment under low tension.

The yarn supplied in the present invention has a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more and a hot water shrinkage difference between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group of 5% or more. It is necessary to use shrink-blend fibers. More specifically, the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group is 10% or more, and the average value of the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group and the average value of the hot water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament group The difference in yarn length between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group is generated by heat treatment in the subsequent process by using a different shrinkage mixed yarn having a difference of 5% or more, and the yarn is bulged. I can do this. When the difference in the hot water shrinkage ratio between the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group is less than 5%, the difference in yarn length is insufficient, and satisfactory swelling cannot be imparted to the yarn. Also, when the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament group is less than 10%, it is difficult to make the difference of the hot water shrinkage rate with the low shrinkage filament group 5% or more, and the different shrinkage effect is reduced by half. Absent.

In the present invention, the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is subjected to a bunching / relaxation heat treatment under a low tension. The convergence relaxation heat treatment referred to in the present invention is to perform heat treatment in a relaxed state while twisting and consolidating the yarn. By applying an appropriate twist and bundle to the yarn, uniform heat is applied to the individual filaments, and the uniform shrinkage effect can be realized. In addition, the high shrinkage filament group and the low shrinkage filament group of the different shrinkage mixed fibers are mixed irregularly, and have a mixing effect.
Accordingly, the yarn length difference due to the difference in the hot water shrinkage rate of the different shrinkage mixed fiber is uniformly expressed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the filament has a special structure in which the individual filaments are mixed irregularly.

Excessive twisting and bunching during the bunching-relaxation heat treatment is not preferable because crimping is imparted and the cross section of the filament changes, tending to reduce silky luster by half. In addition, when the relaxation heat treatment is performed without twisting and consolidating, the individual filaments are not given an even heat action, and uneven shrinkage occurs to cause an uneven yarn length difference in the yarn longitudinal direction. The luster is a thread having a metallic luster.

As described above, silky luster cannot be imparted to the yarn only by excessive twist twisting or relaxation heat treatment. As a means to obtain silky luster, that is, mild luster, it is preferable to apply moderate twisting and bundling. Mild luster is obtained by a special yarn structure accompanying the development of heterogeneous shrinkage with little change in the cross-sectional form of the filament. Things.

Therefore, in the present invention, it is an important point to perform twisting and bundling, and it is preferable to perform twisting and bundling with an appropriate number of twists capable of imparting appropriate twisting and bundling to the yarn. If this moderate twist number is represented by a twist coefficient, a preferable range is 5,000 to 20,000. Here, the twist coefficient is a numerical value calculated by the following equation. Twisting coefficient = D ^1/2 × Twisting number (T / M) where D: Fineness of feed yarn (denier)

Although there is no particular limitation on an apparatus for performing such an appropriate twisting and focusing as long as it is capable of twisting and focusing in a relaxed state, a swirling nozzle utilizing a fluid is preferably used.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to perform the bunching-relaxation heat treatment in an over-feed state such that the yarn tension is as low as 0.06 g / d or less. By placing the yarn in such a state that it is easy to shrink under such low tension, the shrinkage effect of the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber is maximized, and the difference in yarn length is easily expressed. When the above-mentioned yarn tension exceeds 0.06 g / d, the expression of the yarn length difference becomes insufficient.

By a series of actions of the bunching-relaxation heat treatment, the low-shrinkage yarn aimed at by the present invention has a special structure in which the difference in yarn length due to the occurrence of differential shrinkage is mixed irregularly, and a moderate swelling is achieved. And a yarn having a mild luster.

Further, in the present invention, it is necessary that the hot water shrinkage of the processed yarn obtained by performing the bunching / relaxation heat treatment is 3% or less. By setting the hot water shrinkage to 3% or less, even when subjected to cheese dyeing, the occurrence of spots between the inner and outer layers of the cheese due to the expression of heat shrinkage is eliminated, and the yarn can be dyed. Moreover, since the obtained processed yarn is a low shrinkage yarn, the yarn length difference can be maintained even when subjected to a heat action in a post process or the like.
Excellent morphological stability. If the hot water shrinkage exceeds 3%, a color difference easily occurs between the inner and outer layers during cheese dyeing, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, in order to obtain a low shrinkage yarn having a hot water shrinkage of 3% or less by subjecting the different shrinkage mixed fiber to a bundle relaxation heat treatment, the relaxed state during the bundle relaxation heat treatment (overfeed of the yarn) Rate) and heat treatment temperature must be appropriately selected. In this case, the heat treatment temperature is preferably set to a high temperature in a range where the yarn does not fuse, and the overfeed ratio is preferably set to a high overfeed ratio in a range in which the yarn is not loosened.

The present invention provides a special structure in which the difference in yarn length caused by the difference in differential shrinkage is mixed irregularly by subjecting the differently shrink mixed yarn to a bunching / relaxation heat treatment under a low tension of 0.06 g / d or less. , With moderate swelling and mild luster,
It is a low-shrink yarn that can be dyed with cheese and is suitable for pre-dyeing. Since it is a low-shrink yarn, it can maintain the difference in yarn length even under thermal action and has excellent shape stability. Can be produced.

According to a second aspect of the present invention, the processed yarn obtained in the first aspect of the invention is subjected to a fluid jetting process.

The processed yarn obtained in the first invention has a large difference in yarn length due to the occurrence of a difference in shrinkage, and the mixture of the filaments is weak. Therefore, yarn misalignment or catching on a guide may occur in the weaving process. is there. However, by performing fluid injection processing on the processed yarn obtained in the first invention,
Each filament has a complicated bent structure and is tightly entangled, and the entire yarn is in a bundled form. Therefore, there is no trouble in the weaving process, and a silky tone specially processed yarn with excellent post-processability is obtained. Can be.

Further, in the processed yarn obtained in the second invention, a complicated bending structure of each filament and a large number of voids are formed between the filaments by the fluid jetting process. The combination of complicated and subtle irregular reflection of light rays and a large number of voids makes it possible to obtain a fabric having mild luster and swelling like silk.

Further, in the processed yarn obtained by the above-mentioned fluid jet processing, since the filaments are strongly entangled with each other, unlike the false twisted crimped yarn, the morphological change due to the tension when wound on the cheese is small, Many voids remain in the wound yarn. For this reason, if cheese dyeing is performed, a large number of voids and low shrinkage are combined, so that the dyeing solution can well penetrate between the filaments, and a high-quality yarn that has no spots between the inner and outer layers can be obtained.

In the second invention, the overfeed rate of the yarn during the fluid jet machining is not particularly limited.
It may be selected in such a range that voids are formed between the filaments and the loop fluff does not hinder the weaving process, but generally 5 to 15% is preferable.

The fluid ejection nozzle used in the fluid ejection processing in the second invention is not particularly limited, but a Taslan-based nozzle which can form a large number of voids between the filaments by tightly entangled filaments is preferable. Used.

The material of the different shrinkage mixed fiber in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber such as polyester or polyamide. A bright yarn or a modified cross-section yarn capable of expressing silky luster is preferably used.

Next, the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of the first invention. In FIG. 1, the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber Y is supplied by the feed roller 1 between the feed roller 1 and the first delivery roller 4 in an overfeed state. Next, twisting and focusing are performed by a twisting and focusing device (fluid swirl nozzle) 3 provided between the feed roller 1 and the first delivery roller 4, heat setting is performed by the heater 2, and heat treatment for focusing and relaxation is performed. It is wound up on a package 6 by a winding roller 5 via one delivery roller 4.

FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram showing one embodiment of the second invention. The hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn Y is subjected to the same processing as in FIG. 1 up to the first delivery roller 4, and the yarn exiting the first delivery roller 4 is subjected to fluid ejection processing by the fluid ejection nozzle 7 and then to the second delivery roller 7. It is wound up on the package 6 by the winding roller 5 via the delivery roller 8.

[0031]

Next, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.

Example 1 As a supply yarn, a high shrinkable filament group was 30d / 24f,
Low shrinkage filament group consisting of 35d / 24f, polyester hot shrinkage of 15% hot yarn shrinkage ratio, 10% difference in hot water shrinkage ratio between high shrinkage filament group and low shrinkage filament group Using the mixed yarn, a silky tone specially processed yarn was produced according to the process shown in FIG. 1 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. Table 1
Is the difference between the average value of the hot water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkable filament group and the average value of the hot water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage filament group.

Comparative Example 1 Using the same different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn as in Example 1, according to the process shown in FIG. 1, under the conditions shown in Table 1, instead of the convergence relaxation heat treatment, a special tension yarn heat treatment was performed to produce a specially processed yarn. .

Comparative Example 2 The hot water shrinkage of the different shrinkage mixed fiber was 8%, and the difference of the hot water shrinkage was 3%.
Except that the same type of different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn as in Example 1 was used.
According to the process of FIG. 1, specially processed yarn was manufactured under the conditions shown in Table 1.

[0035]

[Table 1]

The silky tone specially processed yarn obtained in Example 1 was a low shrinkage yarn having moderate swelling caused by a difference in yarn length and mild luster due to the special yarn form. When the obtained processed yarn was pre-dyed by cheese dyeing, good pre-dyed yarn was obtained without occurrence of spotting. The fabric obtained by weaving this yarn is
The silky touch feeling with silky luster and soft and moderate swelling was exhibited. On the other hand, the processed yarns obtained in Comparative Examples 1 and 2 had a metallic luster and lacked a swelling feeling.

Example 2 Using the same polyester hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn as in Example 1, a silky tone specially processed yarn was produced according to the process shown in FIG.

Comparative Example 3 Using the same different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn as in Comparative Example 1, according to the process shown in Table 2, under the conditions shown in Table 2, instead of the bundle relaxation heat treatment, a special tension yarn was applied to produce a specially processed yarn. .

Comparative Example 4 Using the hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber used in Comparative Example 2, a specially processed yarn was produced in accordance with the process shown in FIG.

[0040]

[Table 2]

The silky tone specially processed yarn obtained in Example 2 is a low shrinkage yarn, has an internal structure in which the filaments are intricately entangled, and has a large number of voids between the filaments. It had a swelling and mild luster. When the obtained processed yarn was pre-dyed by cheese dyeing, good pre-dyed yarn was obtained without occurrence of spotting. In addition, when weaving was performed using this yarn for dyeing, the passability of the process was good, and the resulting fabric exhibited a silky touch feeling with silky luster and a soft and moderate swelling feeling. On the other hand, Comparative Example 3
The processed yarn obtained in 4 had a metallic luster and lacked a swelling feeling.

[0042]

According to the present invention, it is possible to maximize the different shrinkage effect of the different shrinkage mixed fiber, and to produce a silky tone specially processed yarn having appropriate swelling and mild luster. The silky tone specially processed yarn obtained in the present invention is a low-shrinkage yarn that can be dyed with cheese.
Even when subjected to a thermal action in a later step, the morphological change is small and the morphological stability is excellent.

In particular, according to the second aspect of the present invention, a silky tone specially processed yarn excellent in post-processability without any trouble in the weaving process can be obtained. When weaving and weaving this processed yarn, the complex and subtle irregular reflection of light rays and numerous voids combine,
It is possible to obtain a fabric having mild luster and swelling as if it were silk. In addition, when the cheese is dyed, a large number of voids and low shrinkage are combined, so that the dyeing liquid penetrates well between the filaments, and it is possible to obtain a high-quality yarn that has no spots between the inner and outer layers.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic process drawing showing one embodiment of the first invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic process drawing showing one embodiment of the second invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Y Different shrinkage mixed fiber 1 Feed roller 2 Heater 3 Twisting and bundling device 4 First delivery roller 5 Winding roller 6 Package 7 Fluid ejection nozzle 8 Second delivery roller

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of front page (56) References JP-A-3-8831 (JP, A) JP-A-54-23753 (JP, A) JP-A-57-29624 (JP, A) 64542 (JP, A) JP-A-52-18949 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02J 1/22 D02G 1/18 D02G 3/04 D02J 1/00

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] Claims: 1. A filament comprising a group of high shrinkable filaments and a group of low shrinkage filaments, wherein the yarn has a hot water shrinkage of 10% or more,
In addition, a heat-shrinkage mixed fiber having a difference in hot water shrinkage ratio of both filament groups of 5% or more is subjected to a bunching and relaxation heat treatment under a tension of 0.06 g / d or less, and the hot water shrinkage ratio of the heat-shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is reduced. A method for producing a silky-tone specially processed yarn, characterized in that the content is 3% or less. 2. A method for producing a silky tone specially processed yarn, wherein the processed yarn obtained in claim 1 is continuously subjected to a fluid jetting process.