JP2021172621A - 毛髪化粧料組成物 - Google Patents
毛髪化粧料組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP2021172621A JP2021172621A JP2020079216A JP2020079216A JP2021172621A JP 2021172621 A JP2021172621 A JP 2021172621A JP 2020079216 A JP2020079216 A JP 2020079216A JP 2020079216 A JP2020079216 A JP 2020079216A JP 2021172621 A JP2021172621 A JP 2021172621A
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- JP
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- general formula
- cosmetic composition
- weight
- hair cosmetic
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- -1 tertiary amine compound Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 11
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- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 7
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- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000000524 functional group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 20
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- YETXGSGCWODRAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 17-methyloctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O YETXGSGCWODRAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WSRCOZWDQPJAQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 18-methylicosanoic acid Chemical compound CCC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WSRCOZWDQPJAQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 240000003538 Chamaemelum nobile Species 0.000 description 2
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- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
一方で、分子量が低く、柔軟性、つや、まとまりを同時に付与して、寝癖を防止し、スタイルを付けやすく、しかもそのスタイルが持続する毛髪処理用組成物(例えば、特許文献5)などが提案されている。しかし、コンディショナー、トリートメント、リンスのような洗い流す製品では、柔軟性は与えられてもハリ・コシ感を残す性能は十分ではない場合もあった。また、低い分子量で親水性が高い成分を配合すると乳化安定性が悪くなる場合もあった。すなわち、洗い流す製品で毛髪にハリ・コシを与え、滑らかな指通りと自然なつやを付与し、さらには乳化安定性にも優れる性能には満足できない場合もあった。
(1)
(A)一般式(1)で示されるサクシニルアルギニンまたは、その塩 0.1〜3.0重量%
(C)一般式(2)で示される第3級アミン化合物のうち少なくとも1種 0.5〜2.5重量%
(D)炭素数2〜8の有機酸のうち少なくとも1種 0.1〜3.0重量%
の組成である、洗い流して使用する毛髪化粧料組成物である。
(2)
一般式(3)で示される第4級アンモニウム塩を含有しないか、または一般式(3)で示される第4級アンモニウム塩のうち少なくとも1種 1.0重量%以下の組成である、(1)の毛髪化粧料組成物である。
(3)
前記炭素数2〜8の有機酸が乳酸またはグルタミン酸のうち少なくとも1種である、(1)又は(2)の毛髪化粧料組成物である。
(A)成分は、一般式(1)で示されるサクシニルアルギニンまたは、その塩である。
上記一般式(2)で表される第3級アミン化合物の具体例としては、ベヘナミドプロピルジメチルアミン(ベヘン酸ジメチルアミノプロピルアミド)、ステアリン酸ジメチルアミノプロピルアミド、ステアロキシプロピルジメチルアミン、ステアリルPGジメチルアミン、PPG−1/PEG−1ステアラミン等が挙げられる。
上記一般式(3)で表される第4級アンモニウム塩の具体例としては、例えば、ベヘントリモニウムクロリド(塩化ベヘニルトリメチルアンモニウム)、塩化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化ラウリルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ミリスチルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化ミリスチルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化セチルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化ステアリルトリメチルアンモニウム、臭化ベヘニルトリメチルアンモニウム、セチルトリメチルアンモニウムメタンスルホネートステアリルトリメチルアンモニウムメトサルフェート、塩化ミリスチルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム、塩化セチルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム、塩化ステアリルジメチルジメチルベンジルアンモニウム、塩化オクチルジヒドロキシエチルメチルアンモニウム、塩化2−デシルテトラデシルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化2−ドデシルヘキサデシルトリメチルアンモニウム、塩化ジステアリルジメチルアンモニウム、塩化ジセチルジメチルアンモニウム、塩化ジココイルジメチルアンモニウム等が挙げられる。
500mlの4つ口フラスコに、蒸留水190gを加え、L−アルギニン(東京化成工業株式会社) 53.8gを入れ、攪拌して完全に溶解させた。そこへ無水コハク酸(30.9g、1当量、東京化成工業株式会社)を加えた。無水コハク酸添加後、pHが低下するため、pHが6〜9となるように、NaOH(東京化成工業株式会社)の48重量%水溶液(25.7g、1当量)を滴下し、無水コハク酸が完全に溶解してpHが6付近で安定するまで50℃で攪拌し、目的物を得た。目的物の構造は1H−NMR(日本電子株式会社、JNM−ECZ400S)で確認した。1H−NMRケミカルシフト:1.5〜1.8ppm(4H m)、2.3ppm(4H m)、3.1ppm(2H m)、4.1ppm(1H m)。
表1、2に示す組成の毛髪化粧料組成物を下記の方法で調製し、実施例1〜8および比較例1〜10に記載する毛髪化粧料組成物を得た。得られた毛髪化粧料組成物について下記評価を行った。その結果を表1、2に示す。
配合成分のうち、(A)成分、(D)成分、ベヘントリモニウムクロリド、濃グリセリン、香料、精製水を除く各成分を混合し、この混合物を80℃まで、撹拌下に加熱して均一油相の混合物を調製した。別の容器で、(A)成分、(D)成分、ベヘントリモニウムクロリド、濃グリセリンを、撹拌下に80℃に加熱して均一水相の混合物を調製した。この油相混合物に、水相混合物を80℃、撹拌下において混合し、乳化操作を施し、この乳化物を攪拌下、60℃まで冷却した。さらにこの乳化混合物に、温度60℃において香料を加え、更に室温まで、撹拌下に冷却して毛髪化粧料組成物を調製した。
長さ30cm、幅5cmの毛束(ビューラックス株式会社、毛髪ストランド5 黒髪100%根元揃え)をモデルシャンプーで洗髪後に毛髪化粧料組成物で処理し、1分間流水ですすいだ後、タオルドライし、ドライヤーで乾燥させた乾燥後の髪のつやについて、下記の基準に従い、専門パネラー8名により官能評価試験を行った。評価は以下の基準とし、8名の評価ポイントの平均点でランク分けした。ランクは◎:4〜5、○:3〜4、△:2〜3、×:1〜2とした。
<乾燥後の髪のつや>
5:非常につやがある
4:ややつやがある
3:どちらともいえない
2:あまりつやがない
1:つやがない
<モデルシャンプー>
(配合量は純分の重量%を示す)
ラウロイルメチルアラニンNa(※1) 12.0重量%
ラウラミドプロピルベタイン(※2) 8.0重量%
PPG−2コカミド(※3) 1.0重量%
ポリクオタニウム−10(※4) 0.5重量%
クエン酸(※5) 適量(pH 6とする量)
精製水 残量
合計 100重量%
※1:アラノン(登録商標)ALE(川研ファインケミカル社製)、※2:ソフタゾリン(登録商標)LPB−R(川研ファインケミカル社製)、※3:アミゼット(登録商標)1PC(川研ファインケミカル社製)、※4:カチナール(登録商標)HC−200(東邦化学工業社製)、※5:試薬(東京化成工業社)
人毛(ビューラックス株式会社、毛髪ストランド5 黒髪100%根元揃え)をブリーチしたブリーチ毛を四分割にし、長さを10cmにした。室温20℃、湿度60%の恒温恒湿室で6日間静置し、純曲げ試験機(カトーテック株式会社、KESFB2−S型)により、曲げ硬さの変化率を測定した。試験機に毛束の中心部を取り付け、曲げ応力を曲率(K)−1.5〜+1.5cm−1の範囲を0.5cm−1・s−1の変化速度で計測し、得られた曲げ応力−曲率曲線でのK:0.5〜1.0cm−1及び−0.5〜1.0cm−1間における曲線の傾斜から曲げ特性を計測した。さらに、実施例および比較例に沿って調製した毛髪化粧料組成物で10回処理、並びに蒸留水でのすすぎを行い、室温20℃、湿度60%の恒温恒湿室で6日間静置後の毛髪を上記と同じ条件で曲げ特性を計測した。処理前の曲げ特性値に対して処理後の曲げ特性値の変化を、処理前を100%とし、処理後がどの程度変化したか変化率として表1、2に示した。計算例として、実施例3の場合では、処理前の曲げ特性値=(y2−y1)/(x2−x1)=(2.93−1.8)/(0.99−0.51)=2.35、処理後の曲げ特性値=(3.08−1.9)/0.99−0.5)=2.41となり、変化率=2.41/2.35×100=102.6である。故に、処理前よりも処理後に+2.6%毛髪のハリ・コシが向上したことを示す。曲げ特性値の変化率が+であればハリ・コシが向上し、−であればハリ・コシが低下する事を示す。数値が大きいほどハリ・コシがある。
人毛(ビューラックス株式会社、毛髪ストランド5 黒髪100%根元揃え)をブリーチしたブリーチ毛を四分割にし、長さを10cmにした。室温20℃、湿度60%の恒温恒湿室で6日間静置し、摩擦感テスター(カトーテック株式会社、KESSE−STP型)により、乾燥後の毛髪の滑らかさを測定した。試験機に毛束を取り付け、10mm角ピアノワイヤセンサー接触子で擦った際の平均摩擦係数(MIU値)を測定した。測定条件は垂直荷重:25g、速度:0.5mm・s−1。
さらに、実施例および比較例に沿って調製した毛髪化粧料組成物で10回処理、並びに蒸留水でのすすぎを行い、室温20℃、湿度60%の恒温恒湿室で6日間静置後の毛髪を上記と同じ条件でMIU値を測定した。処理前のMIU値に対して処理後のMIU値の変化を、処理前を100%とし、処理後がどの程度変化したか変化率として表1、2に示した。MIU値の変化率が−であれば毛髪表面は滑らかであり、+であれば粗いことを示す。数値が小さいほど滑らかである。
毛髪化粧料組成物を40℃の恒温槽で3か月保存した際の外観を表1、2に示す。
経時で分離が生じたものは、乳化安定性に劣ると評価した。また、調製直後に分離したものは、評価を行うことができなかった。
毛髪化粧料組成物を精製水で濃度 5重量%に希釈し、撹拌溶解したのち、pHメーター(F−52、株式会社堀場製作所製)を用いて、25℃におけるpHを測定した。
本発明の毛髪化粧料組成物の範囲内で調製された実施例1〜8は、乾燥後の髪のつや、ハリ・コシ及び滑らかさ、乳化安定性の評価において優れていた。一方で(A)成分が未配合、又は範囲外となる比較例1及び2では、毛髪のハリ・コシが十分に得られなかった。(A)成分が範囲外となる比較例3では、経時で分離が生じ乳化安定性に劣っていた。(B)成分が範囲未満となる比較例4では、髪に充分な滑らかさが得られず、(B)成分が範囲を超える比較例5では十分なハリ・コシを得られなかった。(C)成分が範囲未満となる比較例6は、調製直後に分離が生じたため、評価を行うことができなかった。(C)成分が範囲を超える比較例7は、毛髪が柔らかくなってしまい、充分なハリ・コシを得ることができなかった。(D)成分が未配合、又は範囲外となる比較例8及び9は、調製直後に分離が生じたため、評価を行うことができなかった。また、(D)成分として無機塩の塩酸を用いた場合は、毛髪のハリ・コシ及び滑らかさには優れていたものの、経時で分離が生じ安定性に劣っていた。
Claims (3)
- (A)一般式(1)で示されるサクシニルアルギニンまたは、その塩 0.1〜3.0重量%
(C)一般式(2)で示される第3級アミン化合物のうち少なくとも1種 0.5〜2.5重量%
(D)炭素数2〜8の有機酸のうち少なくとも1種 0.1〜3.0重量%
の組成である、洗い流して使用する毛髪化粧料組成物。 - 前記炭素数2〜8の有機酸が乳酸またはグルタミン酸のうち少なくとも1種である、請求項1又は2に記載の毛髪化粧料組成物。
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