JP2021116508A - Air-permeable woven fabric, manufacturing method of the same, and clothing using the same - Google Patents

Air-permeable woven fabric, manufacturing method of the same, and clothing using the same Download PDF

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JP2021116508A
JP2021116508A JP2020012920A JP2020012920A JP2021116508A JP 2021116508 A JP2021116508 A JP 2021116508A JP 2020012920 A JP2020012920 A JP 2020012920A JP 2020012920 A JP2020012920 A JP 2020012920A JP 2021116508 A JP2021116508 A JP 2021116508A
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yarn
woven fabric
weft
warp
breathable
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JP7388937B2 (en
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丈晴 秋葉
Takeharu Akiba
丈晴 秋葉
浩章 村佐
Hiroaki Murasa
浩章 村佐
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Kurabo Industries Ltd
Kurashiki Spinning Co Ltd
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Kurashiki Spinning Co Ltd
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Abstract

To provide an air-permeable woven fabric having good stretchability and shape-retaining property, having air-permeability, enabling domestic washing, and having good wearing feeling, and to provide a manufacturing method of the woven fabric and clothing using the woven fabric.SOLUTION: In an air-permeable woven fabric 1 made of a warp 2 and a weft 3, the warp 2 is at least one spun yarn selected from a spun yarn of cotton 100 mass% and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester, and the weft 3 is a filament yarn of a synthetic fiber. The warp 2 and the weft 3 have a yarn-absent part in the fabric. The yarn-absent part forms void parts 4 and 5. The yarn-absent part of the warp 2 is present at a ratio of 1 or 2 in 10 to 30 warp yarns, and the yarn-absent part of the weft 3 is present at a ratio of 1 in 6 to 20 weft yarns. An elongation of the fabric in the direction of the weft 3 is 8% or more.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

本発明は、作業服、夏期用ユニフォーム等に好適な通気性織物とこれを用いた衣服及び通気性織物の製造方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a breathable woven fabric suitable for work clothes, summer uniforms, etc., and a method for producing clothes and a breathable woven fabric using the same.

暑い時期に着用する服や発汗を伴う作業服は、生地を薄くしたり、メッシュを形成して蒸れ感を抑制し、清涼感を付与するなどの工夫が必要である。特許文献1には、ナイロンなどの合成繊維からなるフィラメント糸を使用し、単位面積当たりの質量(目付)を15〜50g/mと軽くし、蒸れ感の少ない軽量織物が提案されている。特許文献2には、溶解しない繊維としてポリエステルフィラメント糸を使用し、溶解する経糸及び緯糸の双方にアルカリ可溶性ポリエステルを使用し、タテ方向及びヨコ方向の双方を部分的に溶解除去して通気性を上げることが提案されている。 For clothes worn in hot weather and work clothes that cause sweating, it is necessary to take measures such as thinning the fabric and forming a mesh to suppress the feeling of stuffiness and give a refreshing feeling. Patent Document 1 proposes a lightweight woven fabric that uses filament yarn made of synthetic fibers such as nylon, reduces the mass (weight) per unit area to 15 to 50 g / m 2, and has less stuffiness. In Patent Document 2, polyester filament yarn is used as an insoluble fiber, alkali-soluble polyester is used for both the warp and weft that dissolve, and both the vertical direction and the horizontal direction are partially dissolved and removed to improve air permeability. It is proposed to raise it.

特開2016−223020号公報Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2016-222030 特開2011−089231号公報Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-089231

しかし、従来の通気性織物は、通気性は良くても保形性に問題があり、安全性が重視される作業服や、ストレッチ性を有すると共にしっかりした形が重要視される夏期用ユニフォーム等に適用するには問題があった。 However, conventional breathable fabrics have good breathability but have problems with shape retention, such as work clothes where safety is important, and summer uniforms where stretchability and firm shape are important. There was a problem applying to.

本発明は、上記問題を解決するため、ストレッチ性及び保形性が良好で、通気性があり、家庭洗濯も可能で、かつ着用感も良好な通気性織物とその製造方法及びこれを用いた衣服を提供する。 In order to solve the above problems, the present invention uses a breathable woven fabric having good stretchability and shape retention, breathability, washability at home, and a good wearing feeling, a method for producing the same, and a method for producing the same. Provide clothing.

本発明の通気性織物は、経糸と緯糸で構成される通気性織物であって、前記経糸は、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸であり、前記緯糸は、合成繊維製フィラメント糸であり、前記経糸及び緯糸には糸不存在部があり、前記糸不存在部は空隙部となっており、前記経糸の糸不存在部は経糸10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で存在し、前記緯糸の糸不存在部は緯糸6〜20本に1〜4本の割合で存在しており、前記織物の緯糸方向の伸長率は8%以上であることを特徴とする。 The breathable woven fabric of the present invention is a breathable woven fabric composed of warp yarns and weft yarns, and the warp yarns are at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester. The weft is a filament yarn made of a synthetic fiber, and the warp and the weft have a thread absent portion, the yarn absent portion is a gap portion, and the yarn absent portion of the warp is a warp 10 to 10. There are 1 to 4 yarns in 30 yarns, and 1 to 4 yarns are present in 6 to 20 weft yarns in the weft yarn absent portion, and the elongation rate of the woven fabric in the weft yarn direction is 8%. It is characterized by the above.

本発明の衣服は、前記の通気性織物を使用した衣服である。 The garment of the present invention is a garment using the above-mentioned breathable woven fabric.

本発明の通気性織物の製造方法は、前記の通気性織物の製造方法であって、経糸は、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸とし、緯糸は、合成繊維製フィラメント糸及びアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸であり、前記経糸は、空羽による糸不存在部を部分的に作り、前記織物を精練する際に、アルカリ水溶液により前記アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去することを特徴とする。 The method for producing a breathable woven fabric of the present invention is the method for producing a breathable woven fabric, wherein the warp is at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester. The weft is a filament yarn made of synthetic fiber and a polyester yarn soluble in an alkaline aqueous solution. It is characterized by dissolving and removing soluble polyester yarn.

本発明の通気性織物は、経糸はコットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸であり、緯糸は合成繊維製フィラメント糸であり、経糸は空羽による糸不存在部を空隙部とし、緯糸は溶解型繊維を溶解させることによる糸不存在部を空隙部とし、前記経糸の糸不存在部は経糸10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で存在し、前記緯糸の糸不存在部は緯糸6〜20本に1〜4本の割合で存在しており、織物の緯糸方向の伸長率は8%以上とすることにより、ストレッチ性及び保形性が良好で、通気性があり、家庭洗濯も可能で、かつ着用感も良好な通気性織物とその製造方法及びこれを用いた衣服を提供できる。 In the breathable woven fabric of the present invention, the warp yarn is at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and the blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester, the weft yarn is a filament yarn made of synthetic fiber, and the warp yarn is made of empty feathers. The non-existent part of the warp is a void, the non-existent part of the weft is a gap due to the dissolution of the melt-type fiber, and the non-existent part of the warp is present in a ratio of 1 to 4 in 10 to 30 warp yarns. However, the yarn-absent portion of the weft yarn is present in a ratio of 1 to 4 yarns in 6 to 20 weft yarns, and the elongation rate in the weft yarn direction of the woven fabric is 8% or more, so that the stretchability and shape retention are maintained. It is possible to provide a breathable woven fabric which is good, breathable, can be washed at home, and has a good wearing feeling, a method for producing the same, and clothes using the same.

図1は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物の模式的表面図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic surface view of a breathable woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. 図2は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物のブリッジ構造を示す模式的断面図である。FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a bridge structure of a breathable woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. 図3は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物の交差構造を示す模式的断面図である。FIG. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a cross-structure of a breathable woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.

本発明の通気性織物は、経糸はコットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸とすることにより、着心地を良好に保てる。コットンは吸湿性、吸水性があり、肌にも優しく、発汗を伴う作業服や、夏期用ユニフォーム等に好適である。混紡紡績糸の場合は、混紡紡績糸を100質量%としたとき、コットン20質量%以上100質量%未満、ポリエステル0質量%を超え80質量%以下が好ましく、さらに好ましくはコットン30質量%以上100質量%未満、ポリエステル0質量%を超え70質量%以下である。 In the breathable woven fabric of the present invention, the warp yarn is at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester, so that the comfort can be kept good. Cotton has hygroscopicity and water absorption, is gentle on the skin, and is suitable for work clothes that cause sweating, summer uniforms, and the like. In the case of blended spun yarn, when the blended spun yarn is 100% by mass, it is preferably 20% by mass or more and less than 100% by mass of cotton, more than 0% by mass of polyester and 80% by mass or less, and more preferably 30% by mass or more of cotton. It is less than mass%, more than 0% by mass of polyester and 70% by mass or less.

経糸は、空羽による糸不存在部を空隙部としている。ここで「空羽(からは)」とは、経糸を綜絖通しする際に、糸を部分的に綜絖通しないことをいう。これにより糸不存在部を作り、空隙部とする。 In the warp, the gap portion is the non-existent portion due to the empty feather. Here, "Karaha" means that when the warp threads are threaded, the threads are not partially threaded. As a result, a thread-free portion is created and used as a gap portion.

緯糸は、合成繊維製フィラメント糸及びアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を独立して併用し、織物を形成した後、前記アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去させて空隙部とする。緯糸として残るのは合成繊維製フィラメント糸である。合成繊維製フィラメント糸としては、例えばポリエステル仮より糸、ポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸などが好ましい。前記ポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸は熱水収縮率5〜15%が好ましい。これにより、織物とした後の染色工程などの熱水処理により、伸長率が8%以上、好ましくは10〜25%、さらに好ましくは10〜20%となり、好ましいストレッチ性が発現する。なお、熱水収縮率は、JIS−L−1013(化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方法)の(8.18.1 熱水収縮率,かせ収縮率A法)に記載の試験方法に準じて測定を行った。試験回数は5回とし、その平均値を熱水収縮率とした。 As the weft, a synthetic fiber filament yarn and an alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn are independently used in combination to form a woven fabric, and then the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn is dissolved and removed to form a void portion. What remains as weft is synthetic fiber filament yarn. As the synthetic fiber filament yarn, for example, polyester temporary twist yarn, polyester conjugated multifilament yarn and the like are preferable. The polyester conjugated multifilament yarn preferably has a hot water shrinkage rate of 5 to 15%. As a result, the elongation rate becomes 8% or more, preferably 10 to 25%, more preferably 10 to 20% by hot water treatment such as a dyeing step after the woven fabric is formed, and preferable stretchability is exhibited. The hot water shrinkage rate was measured according to the test method described in (8.18.1 Hot water shrinkage rate, skein shrinkage rate A method) of JIS-L-1013 (chemical fiber filament yarn test method). rice field. The number of tests was 5, and the average value was taken as the hot water shrinkage rate.

ポリエステルコンジュゲート糸は、複数のポリマー成分をサイド・バイ・サイド(バイメタル)型、シースコア(芯鞘偏心)型などに長さ方向に連続して複合紡糸としたものである。ポリエステル成分としては、ポリエチレンテレフタレート(PET)、ポリブチレンテレフタレート(PBT)、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート(PPT)、またはこれらの共重合体などを任意の組み合わせが可能である。このポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸は、熱水処理によりクリンプなどが発生して見掛け上収縮するが、荷重をかけると伸びる性質があり、伸縮性を発現する。このようなポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸として、例えば東レ社製、商品名:EPOYシリーズがある。 The polyester conjugate yarn is a composite yarn in which a plurality of polymer components are continuously formed in a side-by-side (bimetal) type, a seascore (core-sheath eccentricity) type, etc. in the length direction. As the polyester component, polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PPT), a copolymer thereof, or any combination thereof can be used. This polyester-conjugated multifilament yarn apparently shrinks due to crimps generated by hot water treatment, but has the property of stretching when a load is applied, and exhibits elasticity. As such a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn, for example, there is a trade name: EPOY series manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.

経糸の糸不存在部は10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で存在させるのが好ましい。緯糸の糸不存在部は6〜20本に1〜4本の割合で存在させるのが好ましい。これにより、通気性と保形性を両立できる。不存在となる緯糸の本数の好ましくは8〜16本に1本又は2本の割合、さらに好ましくは8〜16本に1本の割合である。経糸は、糸を通す一つの羽に2本の糸を通すことが多く、5〜15羽に1羽の割合で糸を配置させないことが好ましい。ただし、織物時や後工程の染色時等のテンションにより2本分の割合が1本分に見えることもあるので上記割合としている。なお、好ましくは、7〜14羽に1羽の割合で糸不存在の空羽を配置させる。これにより、空隙部を形成して通気性が向上するとともに、保形性を保ち、型崩れしにくい。経糸及び緯糸のいずれか一方の不存在の糸割合が多くなると保形性は確保しにくく、不存在の糸割合が小さくなると通気性が低下する。 It is preferable that 1 to 4 threads are present in 10 to 30 threads in the absence of the warp threads. It is preferable that the weft absent portion is present at a ratio of 1 to 4 out of 6 to 20 threads. As a result, both breathability and shape retention can be achieved. The number of absent wefts is preferably 1 or 2 in 8 to 16, and more preferably 1 in 8 to 16. As for the warp threads, two threads are often passed through one wing through which the threads are passed, and it is preferable not to arrange one thread in every 5 to 15 wing. However, the ratio of two pieces may appear to be one piece due to tension during weaving or dyeing in the subsequent process, so the above ratio is used. It should be noted that preferably, empty feathers without threads are arranged at a ratio of 1 to 7 to 14 feathers. As a result, a gap is formed to improve air permeability, maintain shape retention, and prevent the shape from being lost. When the proportion of absent yarns of either the warp or the weft increases, it is difficult to secure shape retention, and when the proportion of absent yarns decreases, the air permeability decreases.

本発明の通気性織物の好ましい製造方法としては、前記経糸は10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で織物製造時に存在させないことで空隙部を形成し、前記緯糸は6〜20本に1〜4本の割合で可溶性糸、例えばアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸や水溶性ビニロン糸を配置して織物とし、織物製造後に前記アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸や水溶性ビニロン糸を除去するのが通常であるが、アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を配置して織物とし、織物製造後に前記アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を除去するのが好ましい。 As a preferable method for producing the breathable woven fabric of the present invention, the warp threads are not present at a ratio of 1 to 4 in 10 to 30 threads at the time of producing the woven fabric to form a gap, and the weft threads are 1 in 6 to 20 threads. Soluble yarns, such as alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarns and water-soluble vinylon yarns, are arranged at a ratio of ~ 4 to form a woven fabric, and the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarns and water-soluble vinylon yarns are removed after the woven fabric is manufactured. Although it is usual, it is preferable to arrange the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn to form a woven fabric and remove the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn after the woven fabric is produced.

通気性織物のJIS L1096のA法(フラジール法)による通気性は、25〜150cm3/cm2・secが好ましく、より好ましくは30〜130cm3/cm2・secであり、さらに好ましくは36〜110cm3/cm2・secである。前記の範囲であれば夏期用衣料に好適である。なお、このような通気性を発現するために不存在部は、経糸及び緯糸共に1〜9mm間隔程度で存在させるのが好ましい。 The breathability of the breathable woven fabric according to the method A (Frazier method) of JIS L1096 is preferably 25 to 150 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec, more preferably 30 to 130 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec, and further preferably 36 to 36 ~. It is 110 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec. Within the above range, it is suitable for summer clothing. In order to exhibit such breathability, it is preferable that the absent portions are present at intervals of about 1 to 9 mm for both the warp and the weft.

前記経糸及び緯糸の不存在部と直角方向の糸は表側又は裏側でブリッジ構造になっているか、又は前記糸不存在部の両脇の糸と交差する構造となっているのが好ましい。ブリッジ構造は、織物製造後にアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を除去することで形成される。あるいは、空打ちの場合は奇数回空打ちすることでブリッジ構造が形成される。糸不存在部の両脇の糸と交差する構造は、空打ちの場合は偶数回空打ちすることで形成される。このとき、偶数回空打ちしても、空隙部の間隔は奇数回空打ちとほぼ同一となる。なお、空打ちは緯糸についての技術用語であるが、経糸は綜絖通しの際の経糸を10〜30本に1本又は2本の割合で抜くことにより、不存在にすることができる。 It is preferable that the yarns in the direction perpendicular to the absent portion of the warp and the weft have a bridge structure on the front side or the back side, or have a structure intersecting the yarns on both sides of the absent portion of the yarn. The bridge structure is formed by removing the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn after the woven fabric is manufactured. Alternatively, in the case of blank shots, a bridge structure is formed by blank shots an odd number of times. The structure that intersects with the threads on both sides of the thread-absent portion is formed by blank-striking an even number of times in the case of blank-striking. At this time, even if the blank shots are made an even number of times, the distance between the gaps is almost the same as that of the blank shots made an odd number of times. Although blank striking is a technical term for weft threads, the warp threads can be made absent by pulling out one or two warp threads in 10 to 30 threads at the time of hedging.

通気性織物を構成する経糸及び緯糸は、紡績糸とする。経糸及び緯糸に紡績糸を使用することにより、経糸と緯糸が滑りにくく、経糸と緯糸の交差点を動きにくくし、空隙部があっても保形性を保持できる。紡績糸は、メートル番手で単糸は(20/1)〜(80/1)番(分子はメートル番手、分母は糸の本数。以下同じ。)が好ましく、より好ましくは(25/1)〜(70/1)番である。双糸は(40/2)〜(100/2)番が好ましく、より好ましくは(50/2)〜(90/2)番である。この範囲であれば通気性と保形性を両立した織物を構成できる。なお、本発明の機能を損なわない範囲で制電糸等を経糸又は緯糸の一部に用いることは何ら差し支えない。 The warp and weft that make up the breathable woven fabric shall be spun yarn. By using the spun yarn for the warp and the weft, the warp and the weft are hard to slip, the intersection of the warp and the weft is hard to move, and the shape retention can be maintained even if there is a gap. The spun yarn is metric count, and the single yarn is preferably (20/1) to (80/1) (the numerator is metric count, the denominator is the number of yarns; the same applies hereinafter), and more preferably (25/1) to. It is number (70/1). The twin yarns are preferably (40/2) to (100/2), more preferably (50/2) to (90/2). Within this range, it is possible to construct a woven fabric that has both breathability and shape retention. It is permissible to use an antistatic yarn or the like as a part of the warp or weft as long as the function of the present invention is not impaired.

アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸は、例えば、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分等を共重合したエチレンテレフタレート糸が使用できる。このポリエテルは、アルカリ易容性ポリエステル糸(カチオン染料可染型ポリエステル糸)ともいわれる。アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸は、50〜200デニールが好ましく、特に50〜100デニールのフィラメントを2本より合わせて100〜200デニールとして用いるのが好ましい。 As the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn, for example, an ethylene terephthalate yarn obtained by copolymerizing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component or the like can be used. This polyester is also called an alkali-tolerant polyester yarn (cationic dye dyeable polyester yarn). The alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn is preferably 50 to 200 denier, and particularly preferably 50 to 100 denier filaments are combined and used as 100 to 200 denier.

通気性織物の単位面積当たりの質量は60〜300g/m2が好ましく、より好ましくは70〜200g/mである。この範囲であれば発汗を伴う作業服や、夏期用ユニフォーム等に好適である。 The mass per unit area of the breathable woven fabric is preferably 60 to 300 g / m 2 , more preferably 70 to 200 g / m 2 . Within this range, it is suitable for work clothes that cause sweating, summer uniforms, and the like.

本発明の衣服は、前記の通気性織物を使用した衣服である。衣服は通常、縫製によって作られる。好ましい衣服は、作業用衣服又は夏期用ユニフォーム等である。シャツやジャンパー等の上衣、ス本やスカート等の下衣に好適である。その他、帽子、家庭着、パジャマ等にも好適である。 The garment of the present invention is a garment using the above-mentioned breathable woven fabric. Garments are usually made by sewing. Preferred garments are work garments, summer uniforms and the like. It is suitable for tops such as shirts and jumpers, and undergarments such as books and skirts. In addition, it is also suitable for hats, household clothes, pajamas, etc.

本発明の通気性織物の第1の製造方法は次の工程からなる。
(1)主たる経糸及び緯糸は、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸とする。前記において、「主たる」とは、下記のアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を除く意味である。なお、通気性や保形性を阻害しない範囲で制電糸やその他糸を用いることもできる。
(2)前記経糸は10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で織物製造時に存在させないことで空隙部を形成する。経糸を通す羽に空羽部分を配置することにより糸不存在部が形成できる。
(3)前記緯糸は合成繊維製フィラメント糸及びアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を使用し、6〜20本に1〜4本程度の割合でアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を配置し織物を織製する。
(4)前記織物を精練する際に、アルカリ水溶液によりアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去する。通常、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸は、精練工程が必須であり、この精練工程でアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去することは、同じく可溶性糸である水溶性ビニロン糸を用いた場合、別工程で水処理が必要な点をふまえると製造コスト的に利点がある。
(5)その後、染色する。染色は常法に従う。染色は熱水で処理するのが好ましく、この時合成繊維製フィラメント糸は収縮し、ストレッチ性が付与される。
The first method for producing a breathable woven fabric of the present invention comprises the following steps.
(1) The main warp and weft are at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester. In the above, "main" means excluding the following alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn. It should be noted that antistatic yarns and other yarns can also be used as long as they do not impair breathability and shape retention.
(2) The warp threads are not present at a ratio of 1 to 4 in 10 to 30 threads at the time of manufacturing the woven fabric to form a gap portion. By arranging the empty wing portion on the wing through which the warp thread is passed, a thread non-existent portion can be formed.
(3) Synthetic fiber filament yarns and alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarns are used as the wefts, and alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarns are arranged at a ratio of about 1 to 4 in 6 to 20 to woven the woven fabric. do.
(4) When the woven fabric is smelted, the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn is dissolved and removed by the alkaline aqueous solution. Usually, at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester requires a scouring step, and in this scouring step, the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn cannot be dissolved and removed. When a water-soluble vinylon yarn, which is also a soluble yarn, is used, there is an advantage in terms of manufacturing cost, considering that water treatment is required in a separate process.
(5) Then, it is stained. Dyeing follows a conventional method. The dyeing is preferably treated with hot water, at which time the synthetic fiber filament yarn contracts and imparts stretchability.

以下図面によって本発明の通気性織物を説明する。図1は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物1の模式的表面図である。この織物は経糸2と緯糸3で構成される平組織織物であり、経糸2は22本に2本の割合で存在しておらず、空隙部4が形成されている。緯糸3も12本に1本の割合で存在しておらず、空隙部5が形成されている。空隙部4と空隙部5は格子模様を形成している。 The breathable woven fabric of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a schematic surface view of a breathable woven fabric 1 according to an embodiment of the present invention. This woven fabric is a plain weave woven fabric composed of warp threads 2 and weft threads 3, and the warp threads 2 do not exist in a ratio of 2 out of 22 threads, and a gap 4 is formed. The weft 3 does not exist at a ratio of 1 in 12, and a gap 5 is formed. The gap 4 and the gap 5 form a checkerboard pattern.

図2は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物のブリッジ構造を示す模式的断面図である。経糸2と交差して緯糸3が配置されているが、空隙部4の部分はブリッジ構造6となっている。ブリッジ構造6の形成方法は前記のとおりである。この例は緯糸3のブリッジ構造6を示したが、経糸についても同様である。図3は本発明の一実施形態の通気性織物の交差構造を示す模式的断面図である。経糸2と交差して緯糸3が配置されているが、空隙部4の部分は交差構造7となっている。同一織物の中にブリッジ構造6と交差構造7を混在することもできる。 FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a bridge structure of a breathable woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. The weft thread 3 is arranged so as to intersect the warp thread 2, but the portion of the gap 4 has a bridge structure 6. The method for forming the bridge structure 6 is as described above. This example shows the bridge structure 6 of the weft 3, but the same applies to the warp. FIG. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing a cross-structure of a breathable woven fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention. The weft thread 3 is arranged so as to intersect the warp thread 2, but the portion of the gap 4 has an intersecting structure 7. The bridge structure 6 and the cross structure 7 can be mixed in the same woven fabric.

以下実施例により、本発明をさらに具体的に説明する。なお本発明は下記の実施例に限定されるものではない。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. The present invention is not limited to the following examples.

(実施例1)
綿(コットン)35質量%、ポリエステル(PET)短繊維65質量%の混紡紡績糸の単糸(メートル番手34番)を経糸に使用し、高い伸縮性を持ったポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸を緯糸に使用した。緯糸のポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸は、市販されているPET/PBTコンジュゲート糸、繊度168decitex,24フィラメント、強度3.3cN/decitex,伸度3.3%,熱水収縮率8.48%を使用した。組織は平織組織とし、経糸は1羽あたり2本の単糸を通し、18羽に2羽の割合で空羽とした(18本に1本の割合で不存在)。緯糸は12本に1本の割合で均等にアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を配置した。アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸は、KBセーレン社製、製品名”ベルピュア”を用い、75デニール3本を引き揃えて使用した。そして、平織物を精練する際に、アルカリ水溶液によりアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去した。漂白及び染色は、常法に従った。得られた織物の単位面積当たりの質量は140g/mであった。不存在部の間隔は経糸及び緯糸共に約5mmである。織物評価は表1にまとめて示す。
(Example 1)
A single yarn (meter count 34) of a blended spun yarn of 35% by mass of cotton (cotton) and 65% by mass of polyester (PET) short fibers is used as the warp, and a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn with high elasticity is used as the weft. Used for. As the polyester conjugate multifilament yarn of the weft, commercially available PET / PBT conjugate yarn, fineness 168decitex, 24 filaments, strength 3.3cN / decitex, elongation 3.3%, hot water shrinkage rate 8.48% were used. The structure was a plain weave structure, and two single yarns were passed through each warp, and two out of eighteen feathers were emptied (one out of eighteen was absent). Alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarns were evenly arranged at a ratio of 1 in 12 weft yarns. As the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn, a product name "Belpure" manufactured by KB Seiren Co., Ltd. was used, and three 75 denier yarns were used together. Then, when the plain woven fabric was smelted, the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn was dissolved and removed with the alkaline aqueous solution. Bleaching and staining were performed according to conventional methods. The mass per unit area of the obtained woven fabric was 140 g / m 2 . The distance between the absent portions is about 5 mm for both the warp and the weft. The textile evaluation is summarized in Table 1.

(比較例1)
綿(コットン)35質量%、ポリエステル短繊維65質量%の混紡紡績糸の単糸(メートル番手34番)を経糸と緯糸に使用し、平織組織(サラシ)とした以外は実施例1と同様に実験した。比較例1のJIS L1096のA法(フラジール法)による通気性は、3.5(cm/cm・sec)であった。
(Comparative Example 1)
Similar to Example 1 except that a single yarn (meter count 34) of a blended spun yarn of 35% by mass of cotton and 65% by mass of polyester short fibers was used for the warp and weft to form a plain weave structure (sarashi). I experimented. The air permeability of JIS L1096 of Comparative Example 1 by the A method (Frazier method) was 3.5 (cm 3 / cm 2 · sec).

Figure 2021116508
Figure 2021116508

表1から明らかなとおり、本発明の実施例1の織物は伸長率及び通気性が良く、洗濯後の寸法安定性が良かった。また、本発明の実施例1の織物を使用して、作業着(上着)を縫製した。この作業着(上着)は、ストレッチ性、保形性が良好で、通気性があり、家庭洗濯も可能で、かつ着用感も良好であった。 As is clear from Table 1, the fabric of Example 1 of the present invention had good elongation and breathability, and had good dimensional stability after washing. In addition, work clothes (jacket) were sewn using the woven fabric of Example 1 of the present invention. This work clothes (jacket) had good stretchability and shape retention, was breathable, could be washed at home, and had a good wearing feeling.

本発明の通気性織物は、作業用衣服、夏期用ユニフォーム等のほか、シャツやジャンパー等の上衣、ズボンやスカート等の下衣に好適である。その他、帽子、家庭着、パジャマ等にも好適である。 The breathable fabric of the present invention is suitable for work clothes, summer uniforms and the like, as well as tops such as shirts and jumpers, and underwear such as trousers and skirts. In addition, it is also suitable for hats, household clothes, pajamas, etc.

1 通気性織物
2 経糸
3 緯糸
4,5 空隙部
6 ブリッジ構造
7 交差構造
1 Breathable woven fabric 2 Warp 3 Weft 4, 5 Void 6 Bridge structure 7 Cross structure

Claims (9)

経糸と緯糸で構成される通気性織物であって、
前記経糸は、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸であり、
前記緯糸は、合成繊維製フィラメント糸であり、
前記経糸及び緯糸には糸不存在部があり、前記糸不存在部は空隙部となっており、
前記経糸の糸不存在部は経糸10〜30本に1〜4本の割合で存在し、
前記緯糸の糸不存在部は緯糸6〜20本に1〜4本の割合で存在しており、
前記織物の緯糸方向の伸長率は8%以上であることを特徴とする通気性織物。
A breathable fabric composed of warp and weft
The warp yarn is at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester.
The weft is a synthetic fiber filament yarn and is
The warp and weft have a thread-absent portion, and the thread-absent portion is a gap portion.
The non-existent portion of the warp is present in a ratio of 1 to 4 in 10 to 30 warp.
The thread-free portion of the weft is present in a ratio of 1 to 4 in 6 to 20 wefts.
A breathable woven fabric characterized in that the elongation rate in the weft direction of the woven fabric is 8% or more.
前記緯糸の合成繊維製フィラメント糸は、ポリエステルコンジュゲートマルチフィラメント糸と溶解型繊維を含み、前記溶解型繊維は除去されて糸不存在部となっている請求項1に記載の通気性織物。 The breathable woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber filament yarn of the weft contains a polyester conjugate multifilament yarn and a melt-type fiber, and the melt-type fiber is removed to form a yarn-free portion. 前記緯糸の合成繊維製フィラメント糸の熱水収縮率は5〜15%である請求項1又は2に記載の通気性織物。 The breathable woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the synthetic fiber filament yarn of the weft has a hot water shrinkage rate of 5 to 15%. 前記通気性織物のJIS L1096のA法(フラジール法)による通気性が、25〜150cm3/cm2・secである請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の通気性織物。 The breathable woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the breathability of the breathable woven fabric according to the method A (Frazier method) of JIS L1096 is 25 to 150 cm 3 / cm 2 · sec. 前記経糸及び緯糸の糸不存在部と直角方向の糸は表側又は裏側でブリッジ構造となっているか、又は前記糸不存在部の両脇の糸と交差する構造となっている請求項1〜4のいずれかに記載の通気性織物。 Claims 1 to 4 that the yarns in the direction perpendicular to the yarn-absent portion of the warp and weft yarn have a bridge structure on the front side or the back side, or have a structure that intersects the yarns on both sides of the yarn-absent portion. Breathable fabric according to any of the above. 前記通気性織物の単位面積当たりの質量は60〜300g/m2である請求項1〜5のいずれかに記載の通気性織物。 The breathable woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mass of the breathable woven fabric per unit area is 60 to 300 g / m 2. 請求項1〜6のいずれかに記載の通気性織物を使用した衣服。 Clothing using the breathable woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6. 前記衣服は、作業用衣服又は夏期用ユニフォームである請求項7に記載の衣服。 The garment according to claim 7, wherein the garment is a work garment or a summer uniform. 請求項1〜6のいずれかに記載の通気性織物の製造方法であって、
経糸は、コットン100質量%紡績糸及びコットンとポリエステルの混紡紡績糸から選ばれる少なくとも一つの紡績糸とし、
緯糸は、合成繊維製フィラメント糸及びアルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸であり、
前記経糸は、空羽による糸不存在部を部分的に作り、
前記織物を精練する際に、アルカリ水溶液により前記アルカリ水溶液可溶型ポリエステル糸を溶解除去することを特徴とする通気性織物の製造方法。
The method for producing a breathable woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
The warp yarn shall be at least one spun yarn selected from 100% by mass cotton spun yarn and a blended spun yarn of cotton and polyester.
The weft is a synthetic fiber filament yarn and an alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn.
The warp yarn partially creates a thread-absent part due to empty feathers.
A method for producing a breathable woven fabric, which comprises dissolving and removing the alkaline aqueous solution-soluble polyester yarn with an alkaline aqueous solution when the woven fabric is scoured.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4935662A (en) * 1972-08-10 1974-04-02
JP2011089231A (en) * 2009-10-23 2011-05-06 Toray Ind Inc Garment and method for producing the same
US20150218737A1 (en) * 2014-02-03 2015-08-06 Under Armour, Inc. Article of apparel including apertures
JP2019044317A (en) * 2017-08-30 2019-03-22 孚日集団股▲分▼有限公司Sunvim Group Co.,Ltd Watermark fabric and manufacturing method therefor
JP2019123970A (en) * 2018-01-18 2019-07-25 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4935662A (en) * 1972-08-10 1974-04-02
JP2011089231A (en) * 2009-10-23 2011-05-06 Toray Ind Inc Garment and method for producing the same
US20150218737A1 (en) * 2014-02-03 2015-08-06 Under Armour, Inc. Article of apparel including apertures
JP2019044317A (en) * 2017-08-30 2019-03-22 孚日集団股▲分▼有限公司Sunvim Group Co.,Ltd Watermark fabric and manufacturing method therefor
JP2019123970A (en) * 2018-01-18 2019-07-25 東レ株式会社 Woven fabric

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