JP2017193540A - 固形化粧料 - Google Patents
固形化粧料 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2017193540A JP2017193540A JP2017080879A JP2017080879A JP2017193540A JP 2017193540 A JP2017193540 A JP 2017193540A JP 2017080879 A JP2017080879 A JP 2017080879A JP 2017080879 A JP2017080879 A JP 2017080879A JP 2017193540 A JP2017193540 A JP 2017193540A
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- Prior art keywords
- component
- acid
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- powder
- feeling
- Prior art date
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- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 74
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 71
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 63
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 41
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 24
- -1 fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 description 59
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 32
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- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 27
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 27
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 27
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- 230000002776 aggregation Effects 0.000 description 19
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 12
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Landscapes
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Abstract
Description
また、近年は紫外線防御効果を付与したファンデーション、チーク等のメークアップ化粧料の要望が高まってきており、紫外線防御効果がありながらも、自然なカバー力を演出する微粒子酸化チタンや微粒子酸化亜鉛を用いた技術が検討されてきている(例えば、特許文献2)。
そこで、本発明では、固形粉末化粧料のようなパウダリー感と、油性固形化粧料のような滑らかな使用感を併せ持ちながらも、自然なカバー力があり、微粒子の凝集抑制効果にも優れた固形化粧料を提供することを課題とするものである。
(a)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物
(b)シリコーン油
(c)平均粒子径が0.01〜0.1μmの酸化チタン及び/又は平均粒子径が0.01〜0.1μmの酸化亜鉛
(d)固形油
を含有する固形化粧料であり、全油性成分中の成分(b)の含有量が50〜99.9質量%であり、全油性成分と全粉体の含有質量比が、(全油性成分)/(全粉体)=0.7〜1.25である固形化粧料、
(B−2)は、下記一般式(イ)で表わされるポリオキシアルキレンである。
CmH2m−1O(C2H4O)h(C3H6O)iCmH2m−1・・・(イ)
(式中、hは2〜200の整数、iは0〜200の整数、h+iは3〜200の整数、mは2〜6をそれぞれ示す)
(B−3)は、下記一般式(ロ)で表される不飽和炭化水素である。
CnH2n−1(CH2)jCnH2n−1・・・(ロ)
(但し、nは2〜6、jは1以上の整数である。)
また、分子中にポリオキシアルキレン基を含有する重合物としては、例えば、(ジメチコン/(PEG−10/15))クロスポリマー等の部分架橋型ポリエーテル変性シリコーンが挙げられる。
分子中に長鎖アルキル基を含有する重合物としては、例えば、(ビニルジメチコン/ラウリルジメチコン)クロスポリマー等の部分架橋型アルキル変性シリコーンが挙げられる。
分子中にポリオキシアルキレン基及び長鎖アルキル基を含有する重合物としては、例えば、PEG−15ラウリルジメチコンクロスポリマー等の部分架橋型アルキル・ポリエーテル共変性シリコーンが挙げられる。
分子中にハロゲン化炭化水素基を含有する重合物としては、例えば、(トリフルオロプロピルジメチコン/トリフルオロプロピルジビニルジメチコン)クロスポリマー等の部分架橋型フッ素変性シリコーンが挙げられる。
これらの1種又は2種以上を適宜選択して用いることができる。
防腐剤、抗菌剤としてはパラオキシ安息香酸エステル、安息香酸、安息香酸ナトリウム、ソルビン酸、ソルビン酸カリウム、フェノキシエタノール、サリチル酸、石炭酸、ソルビン酸、パラクロルメタクレゾール、ヘキサクロロフェン、塩化ベンザルコニウム、塩化クロルヘキシジン、トリクロロカルバニリド、感光素、イソプロピルメチルフェノール等が挙げられる。
表1に示す組成の固形ファンデーションを下記製造方法に従って調製した。得られた固形ファンデーションについて、下記評価方法によりイ.「使用時の形状保持力」、ロ.「滑らかな使用感」、ハ.「後肌のパウダリー感」、二.「自然なカバー力」、ホ.「凝集抑制効果」について評価を行った。その結果を併せて表1に示す。
A:成分1〜6を加熱混合する。
B:成分7〜9をAに添加混合する。
C:成分10〜14をBに添加混合し、ローラーにて処理する。
D:Cを加熱して、金皿に充填し、固形ファンデーションを得た。
化粧料評価専門パネル20名に前記実施例及び比較例の固形ファンデーションを顔全体に使用してもらい、小道具(パフ)での使用時に、化粧料がヨレる等の問題が起きないか(イ.使用時の形状保持力)、肌上へ伸ばした際に滑らかな使用感を感じるか(ロ.滑らかな使用感)、化粧料を伸ばしきった際にパウダリーな使用感及び質感を感じるか(ハ.後肌のパウダリー感)、肌上の微小な凹凸やシミ等を目立たなくさせ自然な仕上がりになっているか(二.自然なカバー力)について、各自が以下の評価基準に従って7段階評価し、試料毎に評点を付し、更に全パネルの評点の平均点を以下の判定基準に従って判定した。
(評価基準)
(評点):(評価)
6 : 非常に良い
5 : 良い
4 : やや良い
3 : 普通
2 : やや悪い
1 : 悪い
0 : 非常に悪い
(判定基準)
(評点の平均点) :(判定)
5.0以上 :◎(非常に良好)
3.5以上5.0未満:○(良好)
2.0以上3.5未満:△(普通)
2.0未満 :×(不良)
ガラス板の上に前記実施例及び比較例の固形ファンデーションを3gずつ量り取り、その上にもう1枚のガラス板を乗せ、前記試料の直径が4cmになるように上に乗せたガラス板を押し付け、薄く広がった試料中の凝集物の数を目視で確認し、下記評価基準に従って粒子同士の凝集抑制効果を評価した。
(評価基準)
(凝集物の数) :(判定)
0個 :◎(非常に良好)
1個 :○(良好)
2〜3個 :△(普通)
4個以上 :×(不良)
実施例1〜13において、加熱充填前の化粧組成物(工程C段階の組成物)の稠度を、測定温度30℃で、稠度計(日本油試験機工業株式会社製)を用い、JIS−K2220に基づき、2号アルミコーンを用いて測定した。結果、実施例1〜13全て160〜260mmに入るものであった。このまま固形化粧料として使用してもよいが、加熱充填することにより、形状保持力がより向上するため、加熱充填することがより好ましい。
金皿に充填した実施例1〜13の各試料を35℃に一昼夜置き、不動工業(株)社製レオメータ(条件;針状(3mmΦ)プランジャー、針入深度2mm、テーブル上昇速度2cm/min)にセットし、その針入荷重値(g)を測定した。結果、実施例1〜13全て90〜130gに入り、形状保持力により優れ、適量使用するのに良いものであった。
実施例1〜13の各試料を、20℃環境下にて自動比重計で所定の測定方法に従い測定し、水を1としたときの値として比重を算出した。結果、実施例1〜13全て1.30〜1.55に入るものであった。
(成分) (%)
(1)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン *2 5
(2)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン *3 1.25
(3)カルナウバワックス 6
(4)トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 19
(5)ジメチルポリシロキサン *8 23
(6)酸化チタン *5 5
(7)酸化亜鉛 *6 5
(8)酸化チタン(平均粒子径:0.25μm) 13
(9)マイカ 残量
*8シリコン KF−96−6CS (信越化学工業社製)
A:成分3〜5を90℃に加熱し、均一に混合する。
B:成分6〜9を混合し、これをAに添加混合する。
C:成分1〜2をBに添加混合し、ローラーにて処理する。
D:Cを金皿にプレス成型してファンデーションを得た。
得られた実施例14のファンデーションは、「使用時の形状保持力」、「滑らかな使用感」、「後肌のパウダリー感」、「自然なカバー力」、「凝集抑制効果」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(成分) (%)
(1)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物 *9 10
(2)ジメチルポリシロキサン *1 18
(3)ポリエチレンワックス 3
(4)パラフィン・マイクロクリスタリンワックス混合物 3
(5)パルミチン酸2−エチルヘキシル 8
(6)リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル 2
(7)メチルフェニルポリシロキサン *10 12
(8)酸化チタン *5 10
(9)マイカ 残量
(10)酸化チタン(平均粒子径:0.25μm) 2
(11)雲母チタン 5
(12)黄酸化鉄 0.2
(13)ベンガラ 0.4
(14)黒酸化鉄 0.1
(15)赤色202号 0.5
(16)ジプロピレングリコール 0.1
(17)香料 0.1
*9:KSG−310(信越化学工業社製)
*10:SH556FLUID(東レ・ダウコーニング社製)
A:成分2〜7を90℃に加熱し、均一に混合する。
B:成分8〜15を混合し、これをAに添加混合する。
C:Bを攪拌しながら成分1、成分16、17を添加し、均一に分散する。
D:Cを容器に充填しほほ紅を得た。
実施例15のほほ紅は、「使用時の形状保持力」、「滑らかな使用感」、「後肌のパウダリー感」、「自然なカバー力」、「凝集抑制効果」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(成分) (%)
(1)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物 *2 4
(2)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物 *4 4
(3)デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 15
(4)ジメチルポリシロキサン *1 25
(5)水添ポリイソブテン 1
(6)ミネラルオイル 5
(7)ジカプリン酸プロピレングリコール 1
(8)キャンデリラロウ 1
(9)カルナウバワックス 1
(10)酸化チタン *11 5
(11)セリサイト 残量
(12)シリカ 1
(13)酸化チタン被覆ガラス末 *12 3
(14)酸化チタン被覆合成金雲母 *13 3
(15)雲母チタン 5
(16)ベンガラ 0.4
(17)赤色226号 0.5
(18)黄色4号 1.2
(19)メチルパラベン 0.1
(20)香料 0.1
*11:MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT−500SA(テイカ社製)
*12:メタシャインMC1080TY(日本板硝子株式会社製)
*13:HELIOS R100S(トピー工業株式会社製)
A:成分4〜9を90℃に加熱し、均一に混合する。
B:成分10〜19を混合し、これをAに添加混合する。
C:Bを攪拌しながら成分1〜3、成分20を添加し、均一に分散する。
D:Cを容器に充填しアイシャドウを得た。
実施例16のアイシャドウは、「使用時の形状保持力」、「滑らかな使用感」、「後肌のパウダリー感」、「自然なカバー力」、「凝集抑制効果」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(成分) (%)
(1)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物の混合物*2 8
(2)ジメチルポリシロキサン *1 14
(3)ジメチルポリシロキサン *8 14
(4)イソノナン酸イソトリデシル 7
(5)トリメリト酸トリトリデシル 1
(6)キャンデリラロウ 3
(7)酸化亜鉛 *14 10
(8)酸化チタン(平均粒子径:0.25μm) 10
(9)黄酸化鉄 0.2
(10)ベンガラ 0.4
(11)黒酸化鉄 0.05
(12)香料 0.05
*14:ZnO−350(住友大阪セメント社製)
A:成分2〜6を90℃に加熱し、均一に混合する。
B:成分7〜11を混合し、これをAに添加混合する。
C:Bを攪拌しながら成分1、成分12を添加し、均一に分散する。
D:Cを容器に充填しコンシーラーを得た。
実施例17のコンシーラーは、「使用時の形状保持力」、「滑らかな使用感」、「後肌のパウダリー感」、「自然なカバー力」、「凝集抑制効果」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
(成分) (%)
(1)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物 *3 2
(2)デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン 5
(3)ジメチルポリシロキサン *1 15
(4)トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 2
(5)パルミチン酸2−エチルヘキシル 1
(6)パラメトキシケイ皮酸2−エチルヘキシル 7
(7)ジエチルアミノヒドロキシベンゾイル安息香酸ヘキシル 2
(8)2,4−ビス[[4−(2−エチルヘキシルオキシ)
−2−ヒドロキシ]フェニル]−6−(4−メトキシフェニル)
−1,3,5−トリアジン 1
(9)キャンデリラロウ 5
(10)酸化亜鉛 *6 8
(11)酸化チタン(平均粒子径:0.25μm) 1
(12)黄酸化鉄 0.2
(13)ベンガラ 0.4
(14)黒酸化鉄 0.05
(15)ジプロピレングリコール 0.5
(16)香料 0.1
A:成分3〜9を90℃に加熱し、均一に混合する。
B:成分10〜14を混合し、これをAに添加混合する。
C:Bを攪拌しながら成分1〜2、成分15〜16を添加し、均一に分散する。
D:Cを容器に充填し日焼け止めを得た。
実施例18の日焼け止めは、「使用時の形状保持力」、「滑らかな使用感」、「後肌のパウダリー感」、「自然なカバー力」、「凝集抑制効果」の全ての項目に優れたものであった。
Claims (4)
- 次の成分(a)〜(d);
(a)部分架橋型オルガノポリシロキサン重合物
(b)シリコーン油
(c)平均粒子径が0.01〜0.1μmの酸化チタン及び/又は平均粒子径が0.01〜0.1μmの酸化亜鉛
(d)固形油
を含有する固形化粧料であり、全油性成分中の成分(b)の含有量が50〜99.9質量%であり、全油性成分と全粉体の含有質量比が、(全油性成分)/(全粉体)=0.7〜1.25である固形化粧料。 - 前記成分(a)の含有量が0.3〜3.5質量%、前記成分(c)の含有量が1〜30質量%、前記成分(d)の含有量が0.5〜6質量%である請求項1に記載の固形化粧料。
- 全油性成分と全粉体の含有質量比が、(全油性成分)/(全粉体)=0.8〜1.2である請求項1又は2に記載の固形化粧料。
- 前記固形化粧料が紫外線防御化粧料である請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の固形化粧料。
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JP7496209B2 (ja) | 2019-12-26 | 2024-06-06 | 株式会社 資生堂 | 化粧料 |
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