JP2016216383A - Solid makeup cosmetics for eyebrow, eye, and cheek, and production method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide makeup cosmetics for eyebrow, eye, and cheek having excellent shock resistance and also having an excellent feeling of use, such as spreading easiness and smoothness, by producing slurry with water in order to obtain a slurry with an excellent dispersion state.SOLUTION: A solid makeup cosmetic for eyebrow, eye, and cheek is characterized by producing by a production method having a following step (1) and (2): (1) filling a container with a slurry form composition containing (A) one or more selected from an ester oil consisting of hydroxy acid and higher alcohol, and an ester oil consisting of a long chain fatty acid and diglycerin, (B) polyhydric alcohol, (C) photoluminescent powders, and (D) a hydrophilicity thickener (in the component (D), the ratio of a hydrophilic thickener to water is 0.01:100-5:100 (mass ratio)), and water; and (2) removing water from the slurry form composition subsequently after the step (1).SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

The present invention relates to a solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic that is manufactured by a wet molding method using water, is environmentally friendly and safe, has a smooth feel, and is excellent in impact resistance.

In general, there are a dry molding method and a wet molding method for producing a solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic. In the dry molding method, powder and an oil agent are mixed and then pressure-molded, and this manufacturing method is simple and widely used. However, it was difficult to differentiate in terms of sensory characteristics.

In the wet molding method, a volatile solvent is added to a cosmetic base made of powder and oil to form a slurry, and after filling the container, the volatile solvent is dried and removed to obtain a cosmetic. The produced cosmetic is easy to obtain a smooth feel. However, the impact rate deteriorates and the defect rate increases due to cracks. Also, when producing solid eyebrows cheek cosmetics, glitter powder is widely used, but glitter powder has a large particle size, problems such as hardness reduction, non-uniformity, etc. It was difficult to manufacture.

In particular, in the case of dark-colored eyebrow cheek cosmetics, since they tend to be blurred colors, they tend to be cosmetics with low saturation and poor appearance. This seems to be due to the large amount of orientation and sedimentation in the production process of the glittering powder. It is difficult to control such a process only by adjusting the manufacturing process.

In the wet molding method, volatile hydrocarbons, low boiling point alcohol, etc. are often used as solvents when preparing slurries, but these are dangerous materials, so they are suitable for explosion protection, safety for workers, and environmental protection. As a consideration, it was necessary to recover the solvent. For these reasons, in recent years, studies have been made on producing cosmetics using water as a solvent (Patent Document 1).

However, when water is used as a solvent, the filling property and productivity are poor as compared with those using volatile hydrocarbons or low-boiling alcohols as solvents, and voids are easily formed when water is removed. As a result, problems such as increased picking, powder scattering, and poor impact resistance were likely to occur.

Moreover, the cosmetic base material blended with the oil agent is difficult to adjust to water, and it is difficult to uniformly mix and disperse water and the cosmetic base material during slurry preparation. If the dispersibility is poor, localization of the compounding components occurs, and the feeling of use varies depending on the part to be used, and the impact resistance deteriorates.

In order to solve these problems, a film forming agent is blended (Patent Document 2), or a specific oil agent such as a hydroxyl group-containing oil agent or an amphiphilic ester is blended in order to make the water and the oil agent easy to adapt. Attempts have been made to improve dispersibility and impact resistance (Patent Document 1, Patent Document 3, and Patent Document 4).

Patent No. 5236380 Japanese Patent No. 3455476 JP2014-141433A JP2012-214420

When the film forming agent is used as described above, the impact resistance is improved, but it becomes hard and the usability is inferior. In addition, when the oil agent is devised, there are still problems such as increasing the number of particles and the ability to remove powder when blended with glittering powder having a large particle size. Furthermore, in the wet molding method using water, the dispersibility of the oil agent or glittering powder is poor at the time of slurry preparation, and the cosmetic finally obtained by removing water becomes non-uniform or filled depending on the state of the slurry Productivity and productivity are reduced.

From these, by producing a slurry using water, it is possible to obtain a slurry with good dispersibility, excellent impact resistance, and solid eyebrow cheek cosmetics with excellent usability such as elongation and smoothness. Development of was desired.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention includes a specific ester oil agent, a polyhydric alcohol, a glittering powder, and a hydrophilic thickener, so that the oil agent and the powder can be used even when a slurry is prepared using water. Solid eyebrow cheek cosmetics that have good dispersibility of the body, etc., can prevent powder skipping, can improve impact resistance, have a smooth feel, and are excellent in feeling of use in terms of environment and safety It was found that can be obtained.

The present invention includes the following (A) to (D):
(A) One or more selected from ester oils composed of hydroxy acids and higher alcohols, ester oils composed of long-chain fatty acids and diglycerin (B) polyhydric alcohols (C) glitter powders and (D) hydrophilic A thickening agent (the component (D) has a ratio of hydrophilic thickener to water of 0.01: 100 to 5: 100 (mass ratio)) and a slurry-like composition containing water. A solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic produced by the production method comprising the step (1) of performing and the step (2) of removing water from the slurry-like composition performed subsequent to the step (1).

The present invention provides a solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic which is manufactured by a wet manufacturing method using water, has a smooth feel and is excellent in impact resistance in consideration of environment and safety, and a method for manufacturing the same.

Details of the present invention will be described below.
The present invention is a solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic obtained by filling a container with the above-described components (A) to (C) and (D) and water, and removing the water. . Such a solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic has a smooth feel, a feeling of use, an excellent appearance, and excellent impact resistance by combining the components (A) to (C) and (D). Therefore, caking is unlikely to occur and adjustment can be easily performed.

These actions are due to the specific oil agent, component (B) polyhydric alcohol, component (C) glitter powder and component (D) hydrophilic thickener shown in component (A). This is presumed to be due to the ability to stably and uniformly mix and disperse when preparing the slurry-like composition.

The said component (A) is 1 type, or 2 or more types of oil agents chosen from ester oil consisting of a hydroxy acid and a higher alcohol, and ester oil consisting of a long-chain fatty acid and diglycerin. By blending the component (A), the binding force between the oil agent and the powder is improved, it is easy to adjust the hardness and the hardness, and the adhesion to the skin is also improved.

The component (A) may be any component that is usually used in cosmetics. The higher alcohol in the “ester oil composed of a hydroxy acid and a higher alcohol” is desirably a higher alcohol having 6 or more carbon atoms. Moreover, it does not specifically limit as a hydroxy acid, Malic acid, lactic acid, hydroxystearic acid etc. can be mentioned.

Specific examples of ester oils composed of hydroxy acid and higher alcohol include diisostearyl malate, dioctyldodecyl malate, dialkyl malate (C12,13), octyldodecyl ricinoleate, cetyl ricinoleate, octyldodecyl lactate, cetyl lactate , Myristyl lactate, phytosteryl hydroxystearate, ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, and the like.

The long chain fatty acid in the “ester oil composed of a long chain fatty acid and diglycerin” is preferably one having 14 or more carbon atoms. Specific examples of the “ester oil composed of a long-chain fatty acid and diglycerin” include diglyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl triisostearate, diglyceryl oleate, and the like.
Among these, the component (A) is preferably liquid at room temperature. By making it liquid at room temperature, the dispersibility of powders and oils to be blended is improved, and the resulting cosmetic is less likely to cause caking and is preferable in terms of improving adhesion to the skin.

Although the compounding quantity of a component (A) is not restrict | limited in particular, 0.1-10.0 mass% is preferable with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. The lower limit is more preferably more than 1.0% by mass, and still more preferably more than 2.0% by mass. The upper limit is more preferably less than 8.0% by mass, and even more preferably less than 5.0% by mass. If it exceeds 10.0% by mass, it may become hard and difficult to remove, or caking may occur easily. If it is less than 0.1% by mass, it tends to be taken off and powder flying is likely to occur, and the adhesion to the skin may be deteriorated.

The polyhydric alcohol of the component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and a low molecular weight compound having two or more hydroxyl groups usually used in the cosmetics field can be used. When the polyhydric alcohol is blended, the mixing and dispersion at the time of preparing the slurry-like composition becomes good, and it becomes possible to prepare a slurry-like composition that is easy to handle when filling the container.

Specific examples of the component (B) include propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3 butylene glycol, sorbitol, maltitol and the like.

Although the compounding quantity of a component (B) polyhydric alcohol is not restrict | limited in particular, It is preferable at the point which is easy to produce a smooth slurry if it mix | blends 0.5-10.0 mass% with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. The lower limit is more preferably more than 1.0% by mass, and still more preferably more than 1.5% by mass. The upper limit is more preferably less than 7.0% by mass, and still more preferably less than 5.0% by mass. If it is less than 0.5% by mass, the dispersibility at the time of preparing the slurry-like composition may be deteriorated. If it exceeds 10.0% by mass, the cosmetic obtained after removing the water will be whitish or more than necessary. May increase.

As the glitter powder of the component (C), those usually blended in cosmetics can be used. For example, mica titanium, iron oxide-coated mica titanium, carmine-coated mica titanium, carmine-conjugate-coated mica titanium, iron oxide-carmine-treated mica titanium, koji-treated mica titanium, iron oxide-conjugate-treated mica titanium, chromium oxide-treated mica titanium, Examples thereof include titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride and titanium oxide-coated borosilicate (Ca / Al). Moreover, what was well-known surface treatment in cosmetics fields, such as a hydrophobization process, may be performed as needed.

The compounding quantity of a component (C) is not restrict | limited in particular, What is necessary is just the quantity normally used for cosmetics. For example, it can be 0.1 mass%-60.0 mass% with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. The lower limit is preferably more than 1.0% by mass and more preferably more than 5.0% by mass. The upper limit is more preferably less than 50.0% by mass, and still more preferably less than 40.0% by mass.

The said component (D) hydrophilic thickener has a role as a binder, makes it possible to adjust hardness and removal, and to improve dust resistance and impact resistance. In the component (D) hydrophilic thickener, hydrophilic means that it is a thickener having a high affinity with water, and more specifically means that it is easily combined with water and easily dissolved in water. It is.

Component (D) is not particularly limited as a hydrophilic thickener. Specifically, sodium acrylate, polyacrylamide, sodium alginate, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, pullulan, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxy Water-soluble polymers such as propylmethylcellulose, carrageenan, pectin, agar, starch, quinseed, xanthan gum, crystalline cellulose, and clay minerals such as bentonite, silicic acid (Al / Mg), and kaolin.

In particular, sodium alginate, xanthan gum, bentonite, and silicic acid (Al / Mg) improve the fillability and productivity in the slurrying and filling processes, and the resulting cosmetics have excellent impact resistance. It is preferably used in that it is.

As for the compounding quantity of a component (D) hydrophilic thickener, 0.01-5.0 mass% is preferable with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. More preferably, it is 0.1-3.0 mass%. If it exceeds 5.0% by mass, the cohesive force becomes high, and it may be difficult to remove or caking may occur. Further, if it is less than 0.01%, the productivity in the slurrying step and the filling step and the filling property are deteriorated, and as a result, the effects of the present invention such as adjustment of the removal and improvement in impact resistance are obtained. You may not be able to.

The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a semi-solid and / or solid triglyceride having a melting point of 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. as the component (E). Thereby, the cosmetic of the present invention can obtain a smoother feel. In addition, the said melting | fusing point can be measured using Mettler FP90 Central Processor and FP83HT Dropping Point Cell.

Specific examples of component (E) include tri (caprylic acid / capric acid / myristic acid / stearic acid) glyceryl, tri (palm oil fatty acid / palm kernel oil fatty acid / olive oil fatty acid / macadamia nut oil fatty acid / rapeseed oil fatty acid) glyceryl , Shea butter, cacao butter, mango seed oil and the like.

As for the said component (E), 0.1-5.0 mass% is preferable with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. More preferably, it is 1.0-3.0 mass%. If it exceeds 5.0% by mass, it may be difficult to remove or may cause caking.

In the present invention, in addition to the above components, an oil agent generally used in cosmetics may be used in combination. Examples of such oil agents include fats and oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils and the like.

Specific examples of such other oils include olive oil, macadamia nut oil, avocado oil, tri (caprylic / capric) glyceryl, triethylhexanoin, triisostearin, jojoba seed oil, beeswax, olefin oligomer, Squalane, liquid paraffin, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, petrolatum, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isonononyl isononanoate , Ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl myristoylmethylaminopropionate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phytosteryl oleate , Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate, dilauroyl glutamate (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), dimerlinoleic acid (phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl), isostearic acid, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, cyclohexyl Examples thereof include sasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, caprylylmethicone, dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicic acid and the like. Although the compounding quantity of the said other oil agent is not specifically limited, It is preferable that it is 0.5 mass%-20 mass% with respect to cosmetics whole quantity.

The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other pigments and organic powders not corresponding to the component (C) described above. In this case, the other pigment is not particularly limited, and specifically, for example, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, conger, ultramarine, bengara, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, mica, sericite, synthetic phlogopite, Synthetic phlogopite, talc, silica, silylated silica, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, boron nitride, legal dyes, lauroyl lysine, nylon powder, polytetrafluoroethylene, alkyl polyacrylate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, (dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone) cross polymer, (diphenyl dimethicone / vinyl diphenyl dimethicone / silsesquioxane) cross polymer, (vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane) cross polymer, and the like. Although the compounding quantity of the said other pigment is not specifically limited, It is preferable that it is 30 mass%-85 mass% with respect to cosmetics whole quantity. Moreover, what was well-known surface treatment in cosmetics fields, such as a hydrophobization process, may be performed as needed.

In addition to the above ingredients, other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as medicinal ingredients, flavoring agents, cooling agents, ultraviolet absorbers, ultraviolet scattering agents, suspending agents, stabilizers, wetting agents, anti-wetting agents An oxidizing agent, a pH adjuster, a coloring agent, a preservative, etc. may be blended.

The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by filling a slurry-like composition containing the components (A) to (C) and (D) and water and removing the water. . In the present invention, since water is used as the volatile solvent used in the production process, it is not necessary to use a special apparatus for removing the solvent.

In the present invention, component (D) hydrophilic thickener is mixed with water to prepare a hydrophilic thickener aqueous solution, and this is mixed with components (A) to (C) to produce a slurry. It is preferable to do.
At this time, the ratio of the hydrophilic thickener (D) to water is 0.01: 100 to 5.0: 100 (mass ratio).

In preparing the hydrophilic thickener aqueous solution at the above ratio, the component (D) and water are mixed and dispersed and swollen in advance using a homogenizer or the like. (D) By producing a slurry using an aqueous solution in which a hydrophilic thickener is previously dispersed and swollen in water, the dispersibility in the slurrying process is significantly improved, and an excellent solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic can be obtained. it can.

The proportion of the hydrophilic thickener aqueous solution is preferably 40 to 200 parts by mass with respect to 100 parts by mass of the cosmetic base material (that is, all components other than the component (D) hydrophilic thickener contained in the final product). More preferably, it is 50-150 mass parts, More preferably, it is 60-100 mass parts. If the amount is less than 40 parts by mass, the powder is not sufficiently wetted and the dispersibility and the filling property are deteriorated. Moreover, when it exceeds 200 mass parts, there exists a possibility that time spent in order to remove water may become long and productivity may fall.

The slurry may be used in combination with a volatile solvent other than water as long as the effects of the present invention and the production process are not adversely affected. In this case, the amount of other volatile solvents added may be, for example, 10% by mass or less based on water. For example, when ethanol having a high volatility is used, the time for removing the volatile solvent can be shortened as compared with the case where the whole amount of water is used as the volatile solvent.

More specifically, for example, a method for producing a slurry-like composition can be mentioned as follows. First, a cosmetic material containing components (A) to (C) is uniformly mixed by a conventional method to prepare a cosmetic base material (step A). Next, an aqueous solution obtained by swelling component (D) in purified water and a cosmetic base material containing components (A) to (C) are mixed to obtain a slurry (step B).

The slurry obtained in step B is filled in a container (step 1). It does not specifically limit as a container, The normal container used in solid eyebrow cheek cosmetics can be used. Next, water is removed from the slurry composition after filling (step 2). The method for removing water is not particularly limited, and can be performed according to a known ordinary method. Specifically, for example, natural drying, warming drying, warm air drying, vacuum suction, or the like is performed.

The water used in preparing the slurry is not particularly limited. Specific examples include purified water and normal water. Further, other volatile organic solvents may be used in combination as long as the effects of the present invention are not adversely affected.

The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic obtained by the above method is used as, for example, eye shadow, eyebrow, blusher and the like. The method for producing the solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic described above is also a part of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited thereby.

Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5: Eye shadow Eye shadows having the compositions shown in Table 1 were prepared by the following method.
(Method for producing solid powder eye shadow: Examples 1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5)
(A): Components 1 to 10 are dissolved by heating and dispersed uniformly.
(A): Components 11 to 17 are uniformly dispersed with a Henschel mixer.
(C): While stirring (A) with a Henschel mixer, (A) is added and uniformly dispersed and mixed to obtain a cosmetic base material.
(D): Components 18 to 20 are dispersed and swollen in purified water of component 21 using a homogenizer. (Comparative Example 2 was made with purified water only.)
(E): To 100 parts by mass of the cosmetic base material of (c), 80 parts by mass of the aqueous solution of (d) is added and mixed uniformly to prepare a slurry.
(F): Fill a metal dish with (e) and perform suction compression molding using a porous suction head.
(G): (F) is dried in a dryer at 70 ° C., and purified water is removed to obtain an eye shadow.

(Evaluation method 1: Dispersibility)
Purified water or purified water in which bentonite is swollen is added to the cosmetic base material, and 1.0 g of the prepared slurry is spread on a slide glass in a 1.5 cm square, and its surface state is visually observed. Judgment was made according to a four-step criterion.

(Criteria)
Contents: No judgment coagulation is observed, and it is mixed uniformly with water: ◎
Aggregation is not seen, but it is mixed roughly with water: ○
Slight agglomeration: △
Agglomeration is observed or not mixed with water: ×

(Evaluation method 2: Feeling and feeling of use)
Twenty cosmetic specialist panels use the cosmetics of the examples and comparative examples, and each of them evaluates the feel and feeling of use (smoothness / adhesion to the skin) according to the following criteria. And the average score of all panels was determined according to the following four criteria.

(Evaluation criteria)
Evaluation result: Score very good: 5 points good: 4 points normal: 3 points slightly bad: 2 points bad: 1 point

(Criteria)
Average score: Judgment 4.5 or higher: ◎
3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
1.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Less than 1.5: ×

(Evaluation method 3: Take)
Twenty cosmetic specialist panels were allowed to use the cosmetics of the examples and comparative examples, and each of them was judged according to a four-stage judgment criterion.

(Evaluation criteria: Take)
Evaluation result: Scored powder does not fly off and can be taken in an amount suitable for application: ◎
A little powder fly is seen, but the amount suitable for application can be taken: ○
A little more or a little less: △
Too much or too hard to remove ： ×

(Evaluation Method 4: Appearance)
The surface of the produced cosmetic was visually observed and judged.
(Criteria)
Contents: Very good judgment color development: ◎
Good color development: ○
Color development is slightly poor: △
Low saturation and poor color development: ×

(Evaluation Method 5: Impact Resistance)
With the cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples attached to the container, it was repeatedly dropped from a height of 50 cm onto the plywood, and the number of times until abnormalities such as chipping, cracking, and cracking occurred was evaluated. The evaluation criteria are as follows.

(Evaluation criteria)
Number of times until abnormality occurs: Judgment 20 times or more: ◎
15-19 times: ○
10-14 times: △
9 times or less: ×

(result)
From Table 1, the following points became clear.
-The comparative example 1 which did not mix | blend a component (A) had many removals, and it was inferior to the Example because it became a loose feeling.
-Comparative example 2 which did not mix | blend component (D) was low in impact resistance, and was inferior to the Example.
-Comparative example 3 which did not mix | blend a component (B) became difficult to take out, it was easy to raise | generate caking, and was inferior to the Example.
-The comparative example 4 which mix | blended many components (B) took more, the external appearance became white, and was inferior to the Example.
-Comparative Example 5 produced by mixing the component (D) in water with a Henschel mixer at the same time as the other powder raw materials is dispersible when the hydrophilic thickener used is used to produce a slurry. It was inferior to that of the examples.

(Example 11: Eye shadow)
A cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the components shown in Table 2 below.

(Example 12: Teak)
A cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the components shown in Table 3 below.

(Example 13: Eyebrow)
A cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 using the components shown in Table 4 below.

Each of the cosmetics of Examples 11 to 13 is a cosmetic that has an excellent appearance, excellent impact resistance, and excellent usability such as elongation and smoothness as in Examples 1 to 10. It was.

The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic of the present invention can be used for eye shadow, eyebrow, blusher and the like.

Claims (4)

The following (A) to (D):
(A) One or more selected from ester oils composed of hydroxy acids and higher alcohols, ester oils composed of long-chain fatty acids and diglycerin (B) polyhydric alcohols (C) glitter powders and (D) hydrophilic A container with a slurry-like composition containing a water-soluble thickener and water (the component (D) is a hydrophilic thickener to water ratio of 0.01: 100 to 5: 100 (mass ratio)) A solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic produced by a production method comprising the step (1) of performing and the step (2) of removing water from the slurry-like composition performed subsequent to the step (1). The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (D) hydrophilic thickener is one or more selected from bentonite, silicic acid (Al / Mg), xanthan gum, and sodium alginate. The solid eyebrow cheek cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein a semi-solid and / or solid triglyceride having a melting point of 25 ° C to 50 ° C is blended as the component (E). The following (A) to (D):
(A) One or more selected from ester oils composed of hydroxy acids and higher alcohols, ester oils composed of long-chain fatty acids and diglycerin (B) polyhydric alcohols (C) glitter powders and (D) hydrophilic A container with a slurry-like composition containing a water-soluble thickener and water (the component (D) is a hydrophilic thickener to water ratio of 0.01: 100 to 5: 100 (mass ratio)) And a step (2) for removing water from the slurry-like composition performed subsequent to the step (1) and the step (1).