JP2013204198A - Method of manufacturing polyamide stretched yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method of manufacturing a polyamide stretched yarn having excellent stretch properties and a design pattern effect.SOLUTION: A method for manufacturing a polyamide stretched yarn comprises the steps of: using a specific multifilament as a feeding yarn and partially attaching water and/or aqueous liquid onto the surface of the feeding yarn; then subjecting the feeding yarn to heat treatment for 0.4-1.0 sec at a temperature 40°C or more higher than a stretch false twist process temperature and of 180-220°C while applying tension of 0-2 gf to the feeding yarn; thereafter, cooling the feeding yarn for 1.2-2.0 sec while applying tension of 0-25 gf to the feeding yarn; then subjecting the feeding yarn to stretch false twist processing under the following conditions; and then continuously performing these steps at a processing speed of 150 m/min or less. (I) The false twist number is 29,000/(0.9×D)-33,000/(0.9×D), where D is total fineness of a polyamide stretched yarn after the stretch false twist processing, (II) The stretch false twist processing temperature is 140-160°C, and (III) A draw ratio is 1.05-1.15.

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyamide stretch yarn.

  Polyamide fibers have a unique texture such as sliminess, and are therefore widely used in various clothing applications. In recent years, with the versatility of the fashion apparel field, crimped yarns with stretch properties added by applying false twisting to polyamide fibers have been proposed. Such processed yarns are used for outer wear applications such as windbreakers and coats, for example.

  As such a processed yarn, Patent Document 1 discloses a processed yarn obtained by subjecting a polyamide highly oriented unstretched yarn having a specific birefringence and moisture content to stretch false twist.

  In Patent Document 2, water or an aqueous liquid is intermittently adhered to a polyamide highly oriented unstretched yarn and subjected to a heat treatment, and then stretched by 1.2 to 3.0 times. A method of obtaining a knitted yarn by processing is disclosed.

  Furthermore, in Patent Document 3, a polyamide highly oriented undrawn yarn is drawn at a draw ratio of 1.2 to 2.8 times to form thick spots, and then continuously fluidized, or other Disclosed is a method for producing a processed yarn by aligning with a yarn and subjecting it to a fluid treatment. Further, by using the processed yarn obtained in this way, visual effects caused by thick spots and light / dark color differences are disclosed. It is disclosed that it is possible to obtain a fancy fabric in which the above is relaxed.

  Patent Document 4 discloses that a lightly dyeable part and a deeply dyeable part are obtained by intermittently adhering water or an aqueous liquid to a highly oriented undrawn yarn of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament and performing heat treatment. Processed yarn that can express a natural surface feeling by applying a drawing false twist process at a high draw ratio and a low false twist number in order to suppress the occurrence of substantial thickness differences and crimp differences between A method of manufacturing is disclosed.

JP-A-52-85517 JP-A-64-33226 Japanese Patent Publication No. 8-6226 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-323684

  However, although the processed yarn obtained in Patent Document 1 is excellent in stretchability, it is plain, so when used as a constituent fiber in a fabric, the design effect cannot be expressed and a design value is required. It was difficult to develop products that were sold.

  The processed yarns obtained in Patent Documents 2 and 3 can express the design effect on the fabric surface by thick fineness spots and light and shade color differences. On the other hand, the processed yarn obtained in Patent Document 4 is subjected to intermittent false heat treatment, followed by stretching false twisting by setting false twisting conditions such as reducing the number of false twists, so that fine fineness unevenness and shading The color difference can be significantly reduced to express a natural surface feeling.

  However, the processed yarns described in Patent Documents 2 to 4 are for the purpose of controlling only the pattern expression due to the design effect, and it is not possible to add stretchability or a supple texture derived from crimpability. Therefore, there has been a demand for improvement in stretchability and texture when it is contained in a fabric as a constituent fiber.

  The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the prior art as described above, and the design on the surface of the fabric is caused by the light and dark color difference resulting from the crimp difference, which cannot be expressed when using the conventional polyamide fiber. To provide a method for producing a polyamide stretch processed yarn that expresses an effect (pattern tone) and can add a stretch property due to excellent crimp characteristics and a flexible texture that is flexible and elastic. This is a technical issue.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have used a specific polyamide fiber multifilament as a supply yarn, and intermittently (partially) adhered water and / or an aqueous liquid, After applying heat treatment at high temperature and low tension, cooling in a low tension state, and then drawing a false false twist under specific conditions, a fine crimp is added to the processed yarn and excellent crimpability Therefore, it discovered that the polyamide stretch processing thread | yarn which has high stretch property was obtained.

  Moreover, since the portion to which water and / or aqueous liquid is attached has a higher crimp form compared to the portion to which they are not attached, it has a higher stretch property and is subjected to a dyeing process. It became a part, and it discovered that the design pattern effect by a color difference could be expressed.

  Furthermore, the portion to which water or an aqueous liquid is attached becomes a highly crimped portion in which the expression of crimp is further increased when subjected to wet heat treatment, and thus it has been found that the stretch performance can be greatly improved. Reached.

That is, the present invention has the following contents.
(1) A polyamide fiber multifilament having a total fineness of 100 dtex or less, a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 4.0 dtex, and a filament number of 18 to 40 filaments, and the elongation of the polyamide fiber is 50 to 80 % Multifilament is used as the supply yarn, water and / or aqueous liquid is partially adhered to the surface of the supply yarn, and the temperature is 40 ° C. or more higher than the drawing false twisting temperature, and 180 After applying heat treatment for 0.4 to 1.0 seconds with a load of 0 to 2 gf under a temperature of ˜220 ° C., a tension of 0 to 25 gf is applied for 1.2 to 2.0 seconds. The polyamides are characterized by being cooled and then subjected to stretch false twisting under the following conditions (I) to (III), and performing these steps continuously at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less. Manufacturing method of Lecci textured yarn.
(I) The number of false twists is 29000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . D is the total fineness of the polyamide stretch yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 160 ° C.
(III) The draw ratio is 1.05 to 1.15.
(2) The method for producing a polyamide stretch processed yarn according to (1), wherein the cooling treatment after the heat treatment is performed at room temperature.

  According to the present invention, a multi-filament yarn of a specific polyamide fiber is used as a supply yarn, and water or an aqueous liquid is partially attached, and after heat treatment under high temperature and low tension, a cooling step in a low tension state Then, by applying a drawing false twist process under specific conditions, a fine crimp is added to the processed yarn, so that a processed yarn having high stretchability and a supple texture can be obtained.

  Furthermore, since the part to which water and / or the aqueous liquid is attached has a higher crimp than the part to which they are not attached, it exhibits higher stretchability. Furthermore, the portion to which water and / or the aqueous liquid is attached becomes a portion having higher crimpability because the crimpability becomes apparent when wet heat treatment is performed. Therefore, the fabric in which the polyamide stretch-processed yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention is used as a constituent fiber has excellent stretch properties, and particularly has improved stretch properties by applying wet heat treatment. It becomes.

  In addition, since the part to which water and / or aqueous liquid is attached becomes a lightly dyed pattern part when dyeing is applied, the design pattern effect (pattern tone) due to color difference Can be expressed.

It is the schematic which shows one Embodiment of the apparatus which manufactures the polyamide stretch process yarn of this invention.

  Hereinafter, a method for producing the polyamide stretch yarn of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “process yarn” or “stretch yarn”) will be described in detail.

  In the production method of the present invention, a multifilament of polyamide fiber is used as a supply yarn. The polyamide fiber is not particularly limited, and may be a fiber made of a polymer having an amide group represented by nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 46, and the like.

  The multifilament of the polyamide fiber needs to have a total fineness of 100 dtex or less, and is preferably 50 to 90 dtex. When the total fineness exceeds 100 dtex, the texture becomes hard, so that the use is limited such as being unsuitable as a stretch material for clothing. Further, if the total fineness is less than 50 dtex, the texture may be too soft, and a supple texture may not be exhibited.

  In addition, the polyamide fiber needs to have a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 4.0 dtex, and preferably 3.0 to 4.0 dtex. If the single yarn fineness is less than 2.5 dtex, the texture is too soft and the slime feeling peculiar to polyamide fibers cannot be expressed. Furthermore, when it is set as a fabric, pattern tone cannot be expressed and the design pattern effect cannot fully be exhibited. On the other hand, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 4.0 dtex, the texture becomes hard, and when a fabric is obtained using the obtained polyamide stretch yarn as a constituent fiber, a soft and soft texture expression can be added to the fabric. Not preferable.

  The polyamide fiber constituting the multifilament is required to have an elongation of 50 to 80%, and preferably in the range of 55 to 70%. When the elongation is less than 50%, the stretched yarn obtained has a stable orientation, and the resulting stretch-processed yarn cannot exhibit a pattern. As a result, the fabric obtained using the stretch-processed yarn as a constituent fiber cannot express the design pattern effect. On the other hand, if the elongation exceeds 80%, problems such as frequent thread breakage during spinning of the polyamide fiber occur in processing operability, and stable supply as a supply yarn is not preferable.

  In other words, in the present invention, by using the above-mentioned polyamide fiber multifilament as the supply yarn, the fabric including the obtained stretch-processed yarn as a constituent fiber has a flexible and flexible flexible texture and design. An effect can be added.

  The multifilament of the polyamide fiber of the present invention needs to have 18 to 40 filaments, preferably 25 to 40 filaments, and more preferably 28 to 38 filaments. When it is less than 18 filaments, the texture of the obtained processed yarn becomes hard, and there is a problem that a soft and soft texture cannot be added. On the other hand, if it exceeds 40 filaments, the texture is too soft, and if it is made into a fabric, there is a problem that the design tone cannot be expressed and the design pattern effect cannot be fully exhibited.

  The cross-sectional shape of the polyamide fiber constituting the multifilament is not particularly limited, but it may be a normal round cross-section, an irregular cross-section, or a mixture of filaments having different cross-sectional shapes. It may be.

  A delustering agent such as titanium oxide, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, and a deodorizing agent may be added to the polyamide fiber as necessary, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

  The production method of the present invention uses a polyamide filament multifilament as described above as a supply yarn, and partially adheres water and / or an aqueous liquid to the surface of the supply yarn, so that the drawing false twisting temperature is exceeded. After a heat treatment for 0.4 to 1.0 seconds at a temperature of 40 ° C. or higher and a low tension of 0 to 2 gf under a temperature of 180 to 220 ° C., a low load of 0 to 25 gf is obtained. It is cooled for 1.2 to 2.0 seconds by applying tension, then stretched false twisting is performed under the following conditions (I) to (III), and these steps are continuously performed at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less. It is what you do. Note that the cooling treatment after the heat treatment is preferably performed at room temperature.

(I) The number of false twists is 29000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . D is the total fineness of the polyamide stretch yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 160 ° C.
(III) The draw ratio is 1.05 to 1.15.

  In the present invention, as described above, water and / or an aqueous liquid (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “liquid”) is partially adhered to the multifilaments of polyamide fiber, and the load is as low as 0 to 2 gf. It is necessary to include a heat treatment step in which the heat treatment is performed at a temperature that is 40 ° C. or more higher than the drawing false twisting temperature at a tension and is relatively high at 180 to 220 ° C. for 0.4 to 1.0 seconds. It is.

  According to such a method, a portion where liquid is not adhered to the yarn (hereinafter simply referred to as “liquid non-adhered portion”) is heat-treated, thereby promoting high crystallization and high orientation. On the other hand, even if heat is applied to the portion where the liquid is adhered to the yarn (hereinafter simply referred to as “liquid adhesion portion”), the heat is used for the evaporation of the liquid and is substantially heat-treated. The change in physical properties is hardly observed because the heat is blocked by the liquid.

  In the subsequent drawing false twisting process, the liquid adhering portion that is not crystallized is easily drawn, and the dye is difficult to enter when the dyeing process is performed. As a result, light and shade occur between the liquid adhering portion and the liquid non-adhering portion, and a pattern can be developed.

  10-30% is preferable and, as for the area ratio of the liquid adhesion part with respect to the multifilament surface of a polyamide fiber, 15-25% is more preferable. When it is less than 10%, there are cases where the design effect is reduced due to a small amount of light dyed pattern expression. On the other hand, if it exceeds 30%, the light dyed pattern expression increases too much, and the light and dark pattern cannot be expressed, and a lightly dyed fabric may be obtained.

  The method for applying water and / or aqueous liquid to the supply yarn is not particularly limited, and for example, a processing apparatus described in Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-35592 can be used.

  The aqueous liquid is an aqueous solution containing various additives such as a surfactant and is not particularly limited. For example, a 0.02% aqueous solution of Neugen SS (nonionic surfactant, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.) is used. Can be mentioned.

  In the heat treatment step, if the difference between the heat treatment temperature and the drawing false twisting temperature is less than 40 ° C. or the heat treatment temperature is less than 180 ° C., the heat treatment temperature is too low, and the thermal efficiency to the liquid non-adhered portion is deteriorated. As a result, high crystallization and high orientation in the liquid non-adhered portion are not sufficiently promoted, and even if the dyeing process is performed, the gradation does not appear, so that no gradation is imparted. As a result, when the obtained processed yarn is made into a fabric, the design pattern effect cannot be exhibited. On the other hand, if the heat treatment temperature exceeds 220 ° C., the crystallization of the liquid non-adhered portion is excessively advanced and the strength is lowered. Therefore, in the subsequent drawing false twisting process, fluff is generated in the processed yarn. In addition, the heat processing temperature in this invention means the heater temperature used for heat processing.

  Next, the heat-treated yarn needs to be cooled for 1.2 to 2.0 seconds with a low tension at a load of 0 to 25 gf, and is preferably cooled at room temperature. By cooling under such conditions, the yarn subjected to the thermal action is rapidly cooled, and the water adhering to the liquid adhering portion is sufficiently evaporated, thereby stabilizing the internal physical property difference of the yarn. I can plan. Then, a stretched false twisting process is performed thereafter to obtain a polyamide stretch processed yarn with improved design effects such as pattern expression when it is made into a fabric.

  The processing tension at the time of cooling needs to be a load of 0 to 25 gf, and preferably 5 to 15 gf. If the processing tension is less than 0 gf, the yarn is loosened and cannot be subjected to subsequent drawing false twisting. On the other hand, if it exceeds 25 gf, the supply yarn will be stretched before stretching false twisting, which is not preferable because an extra physical property change will occur.

  Further, the cooling treatment time needs 1.2 seconds to 2.0 seconds, and preferably 1.3 seconds to 1.8 seconds. If the cooling processing time is less than 1.2 seconds, the cooling zone becomes too short, and the evaporation of the liquid adhering to the liquid adhering portion becomes insufficient. As a result, the liquid that could not be evaporated and scattered would adhere to the false twisting device and induce yarn breakage, resulting in poor processing operability. On the other hand, if the cooling processing time exceeds 2.0 seconds, it takes too much time for cooling, resulting in disadvantages such as cost demerits and an increase in the size of the manufacturing equipment.

  The heater used at the time of heat treatment is preferably a non-contact heater from the viewpoint that the thermal efficiency to the supply yarn is stable, and cuts and fluff can be suppressed in the drawing false twisting described later.

Next, drawing false twisting will be described.
As described above, it is important that the pretreated yarn is subjected to drawing false twisting under the specific conditions (I), (II) and (III) described above.

  As described above, the liquid adhesion portion is not substantially heat-treated in the previous step, and hardly changes in physical properties such as crystallization / orientation. Therefore, when the stretch false twisting is applied, the added twist concentrates on the liquid adhesion portion. As a result, double twisting increases the amount of torsional deformation and a highly crimped form, and the molecular chain is stretched to form many bundled crystal phases. And in a liquid adhesion part, since it is hard for a dye to enter | penetrate, it exists in the tendency to lightly dye | stain after dyeing.

  On the other hand, since the liquid non-adhered portion has been highly crystallized and highly oriented in the previous step, the yarn is hard and has a small amount of torsional deformation. Therefore, it becomes a form to which fine crimps are added, and stretch properties are imparted, and when dyeing is performed, it tends to darken. In addition, the liquid adhering portion has a dense and highly crimped form, and the liquid non-adhering portion has a normal crimped form. Therefore, when the processed yarn of the present invention is used as a fabric, the crimp is provided. The design pattern effect due to the shape difference can be expressed.

  Furthermore, when wet heat treatment is applied to the processed yarn of the present invention, the latent crimp characteristic inherent in the yarn is developed and becomes apparent. Therefore, especially in the liquid adhesion part, crimp expression increases, it is possible to emphasize a high crimp form, and excellent stretch properties are expressed. The wet heat treatment can be performed by ordinary scouring (for example, scouring performed under conditions such as 80 ° C. × 20 minutes) or dyeing (for example, staining performed under conditions such as 100 ° C. for 30 minutes). .

The number of false twists (T / M) when the total fineness of the processed yarn after drawing false twisting is D (dtex) is 29000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 , and preferably 31000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 32500 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . When the number of false twists is less than 29000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 , stretchability cannot be added to the obtained processed yarn, and the fabric becomes inferior when it is made into a fabric. In addition, the design pattern effect cannot be exhibited when the fabric is used. On the other hand, if it exceeds 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 , problems in processing operation such as frequent yarn breakage occur.

  Moreover, the extending | stretching false twisting temperature needs to be 140-160 degreeC, and 145-160 degreeC is preferable. When the drawing false twisting temperature is less than 140 ° C., there is a variation in the design pattern effect between the weights in the case of a fabric, and there is a problem in appearance quality. On the other hand, when it exceeds 160 ° C., the thermal efficiency of the entire yarn becomes too good, and when it is made into a fabric, the design pattern expression becomes difficult to express.

  The draw ratio at the time of drawing false twisting needs to be 1.05-1.15 times, and 1.08-1.13 times is preferred. If the draw ratio during draw false twisting is less than 1.05, the draw tension becomes too low, which causes problems such as yarn breakage. On the other hand, if the draw ratio exceeds 1.15 times, the draw tension becomes too high, so that the resulting processed yarn is frequently fuzzed.

  In the present invention, it is necessary to perform all the above steps continuously at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less. When the processing speed exceeds 150 m / min, it becomes impossible to obtain a processed yarn having high crimpability as the processing conditions are difficult to set. The processing speed is preferably 80 to 120 m / min from the balance between the processing cost and the number of false twists.

  The false twisting device used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but a spindle unit manufactured by Heber Co., Ltd. is preferably used from the viewpoint that a highly crimped form can be stably provided.

  The stretch-processed yarn obtained as described above has a higher elongation property when the elongation ratio is preferably 80 to 130%, more preferably 90 to 120%. A supple texture and slimy feeling can be added. In addition, when it is set as a fabric, the outstanding design effect can be exhibited.

  Next, the manufacturing method of this invention is demonstrated based on FIG.

  FIG. 1 is a process schematic diagram showing an embodiment of a method for producing a polyamide stretch processed yarn of the present invention. The multifilament Y of polyamide fiber, which is a supply yarn, is intermittently (partially) attached by the liquid application device 2 via the supply roller 1. Next, high-temperature heat treatment is performed with a heat treatment heater 3 under low tension. Next, the first take-up roller 4 and the second take-up roller 5 are cooled in a low tension state.

  Continuously, crimping is performed between the second take-up roller 5 and the third take-up roller 8 using a false twist heater 6 and a pin type false twist device 7 under specific draw false twist conditions. Applied. A polyamide stretch yarn is thus obtained. The obtained processed yarn passes through the third take-up roller 8 and is wound up on the package 10 by the take-up roller 9.

  The processed yarn obtained by the above manufacturing method is used as a constituent fiber of various fabrics (woven or knitted fabrics). Furthermore, for the purpose of improving the texture, additional twisting of about 500 to 2000 T / M may be applied to form a fabric. A design effect can be further expressed by subjecting such a fabric to a dyeing process.

  The knitted or knitted fabric structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include woven fabrics such as plain fabrics, twill fabrics, satin fabrics, changed fabrics caused by dobby and jacquard; knitted fabrics such as weft knitting, tricot knitting, and Raschel knitting. In addition, the fabric may be subjected to various types of processing such as deep dyeing, alkali weight loss, flexibility, antistatic, water repellency and the like.

  EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

The evaluation method used in the present invention is shown below.
(1) Fineness Measured according to the method of JIS L1013 8.3.1.

(2) Elongation Measured according to the method of JIS L1013 8.5.5.

(3) Elongation rate (stretchability)
It measured according to B method of JIS L1013 8.11. In addition, this elongation rate is a value measured after heat-treating the obtained processed yarn at 40 ° C. for 30 minutes.

(4) Design pattern effect (sensory evaluation)
The surface of the obtained fabric was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
A: Satisfactory design pattern effect as a target was satisfied.
(Triangle | delta): It did not fully satisfy the target design pattern effect, but was a little bad.
X: The target design pattern effect was not satisfied and was bad.

(5) Texture (sensory evaluation)
The touch of the obtained fabric was confirmed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
○: The target texture was satisfied and good.
(Triangle | delta): It did not fully satisfy the target texture, but was a little bad.
X: The target texture was not satisfied and was bad.

Example 1
A polyamide multifilament (90 dtex / 24 filament, elongation: 58%) yarn is used as the supply yarn, and the polyamide stretch processed yarn (83.5 dtex) of the present invention is used under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process shown in FIG. / 24 filament).

  The obtained stretch-processed yarn was subjected to additional twisting of S-300T / M. The stretch-processed yarn was used for warp and weft to weave a plain woven fabric (warp density: 107 / 2.54 cm, weft density: 84 / 2.54 cm).

  The obtained fabric is scoured under conditions of 80 ° C. × 20 minutes using an aqueous solution in which a scouring agent (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd., “Sanmor FL”) is dissolved in water at a concentration of 1 g / L, Subsequently, the dyeing | staining process was performed at 100 degreeC for 30 minute (s) using the acidic dye (The product made by Clariant Japan, "Nylosan BlueN-GFL") (1% omf). Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained stretch yarn and woven fabric.

なお、表１において、「ｏｆ率」はオーバーフィード率を表す。また「−」は、織物が得られなかったことを表す。

In Table 1, “of rate” represents an overfeed rate. Further, “-” represents that no woven fabric was obtained.

(Comparative Example 1)
A processed yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that no cooling zone was provided for the filament yarn after the heat treatment. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained processed yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 2)
A processed yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heat treatment temperature was set to 170 ° C and the false twisting temperature was set to 170 ° C. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained processed yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 3)
A processed yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of false twists was set outside the range of the present invention. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained processed yarn and fabric.

(Comparative Example 4)
A processed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draw ratio during false twisting was set to a high value of 1.196 times. However, a lot of fluff was generated on the entire yarn, and a woven fabric could be produced. There wasn't.

(Comparative Example 5)
A processed yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the number of filaments in the supply yarn was increased to 48 filaments and the single yarn fineness was reduced. Table 1 shows the evaluation of the obtained processed yarn and fabric.

  The woven fabric obtained in Example 1 uses polyamide fibers whose total fineness and single yarn fineness are specified as supply yarns, heat treatment conditions and subsequent cooling conditions, and false twists such as processing temperature and false twist draw ratio. It consisted of a polyamide stretch processed yarn obtained by a production method with specified processing conditions. For this reason, it has a flexible texture and a supple texture and a slimy feeling, and is excellent in stretch performance due to its highly crimped form. Furthermore, the liquid adhesion part which is a highly crimped part turns into a light dyeing pattern part, and the liquid non-adhesion part becomes deep dyeing, and the outstanding design pattern effect could be expressed.

  In Comparative Example 1, the cooling zone is not provided, and the passage time from the first take-up roller to the false twist heater is short, so it is estimated that the liquid has adhered to the second take-up roller 5. Therefore, the obtained woven fabric has variations in design pattern expression and has problems in terms of quality and quality.

  In Comparative Example 2, the false twisting temperature was high, and the heat treatment temperature was hardly different from the false twisting temperature. Therefore, even if a processed yarn to which a liquid is partially attached is used, the resulting fabric has no design pattern effect.

  In Comparative Example 3, since the number of false twists was too small, the design pattern effect on the obtained fabric surface was small. In addition, since the false twist crimp characteristics are low and the crimp is rough, the stretch property cannot be obtained, and the supple texture is not expressed.

  In Comparative Example 5, since the single yarn fineness of the supplied yarn was too thin, the obtained woven fabric was too soft to express a supple texture and slimy feeling. Moreover, it was inferior also in the design pattern effect.

Y Polyamide fiber multifilament 1 Supply roller 2 Liquid application device 3 Heat treatment heater 4 First take-up roller 5 Second take-up roller 6 False twist heater 7 Pin type false twist device 8 Third take-up roller 9 Take-up roller 10 Package

Claims (2)

A multifilament of polyamide fiber having a total fineness of 100 dtex or less, a single yarn fineness of 2.5 to 4.0 dtex, and a filament number of 18 to 40 filaments, and the elongation of the polyamide fiber is 50 to 80% A multifilament is used as a supply yarn, water and / or an aqueous liquid is partially attached to the surface of the supply yarn, and the temperature is 40 ° C. or more higher than the drawing false twisting temperature, and 180 to 220 ° C. After applying a heat treatment for 0.4 to 1.0 seconds with a load of 0 to 2 gf applied at a temperature of 0, it was cooled for 1.2 to 2.0 seconds with a load of 0 to 25 gf applied, Subsequently, a stretch false twisting process is performed under the following conditions (I) to (III), and these steps are continuously performed at a processing speed of 150 m / min or less. Method of manufacturing a textured yarn.
(I) The number of false twists is 29000 / (0.9 × D) ^{1/2 to} 33000 / (0.9 × D) ^1/2 . D is the total fineness of the polyamide stretch yarn after drawing false twisting.
(II) The drawing false twisting temperature is 140 to 160 ° C.
(III) The draw ratio is 1.05 to 1.15.   The method for producing a polyamide stretch-processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the cooling treatment after the heat treatment is performed at room temperature.

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