JP2013018751A - Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that continues to give a smooth touch of use from the beginning of application until the end of application, while containing a relatively small amount of oil.SOLUTION: The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic includes (a) one or more selected from palmitoylmethyltaurine salts or palmitoyl amino acid salts, (b) one or more selected from straight-chained, saturated higher alcohols, (c) one or more selected from monoalkylglyceryl esters or monoalkylglyceryl ethers, and (d) less than 30 mass% of oil, wherein the component (b) has an average number of carbon atoms of less than 19.

Description

  The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that provides a smooth use feeling from the start of application to the end of application. More specifically, the present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing a combination of a specific hydrophilic surfactant and a specific higher alcohol.

  In cosmetics applied to the skin such as skin care, the comfort of use is an important factor. Cosmetics such as cream may continue to be applied to the skin for several minutes, and are felt from the beginning of application to the end of application. The influence of the feeling caused by friction can be an important factor not only in the quality of the skin feeling but also in the relaxing action and the effective blood flow promoting action caused by the application action.

One of the factors affecting the feeling of use is a method for thickening cosmetics. For example, as a method for thickening an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, a method using a water-soluble polymer and a method using an amphiphilic substance are known.
Water-soluble polymers are used as thickeners in the aqueous phase, and as such water-soluble polymers, in addition to carbomers and polysaccharides commonly used in the past, relatively good usability and Polysaccharides into which alkyl groups or ionic groups (sulfonic acid groups) have been introduced have also been used as ones that bring about stability when an electrolyte is added (Patent Document 1). However, when any water-soluble polymer is used, if a sufficient amount is added to impart thickening or maintain the stability of cosmetics under long-term storage, The weight, stickiness, and twisting of the stretch are inevitable.

  Further, as the thickening by the amphiphilic substance, a method of combining a surfactant necessary for emulsification of the oil phase alone or with other components can be mentioned. For example, Patent Document 2 reports a method of preparing a cosmetic with good elongation using an α gel in which an acylmethyl taurine salt and behenyl alcohol are combined. However, when combined with a higher alcohol having a long chain length, the spread during application is improved, but a hard residue is generated on the surface of the application site. there were.

  In the process of applying an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that originally contains a substantial amount of water, the volatilization of water gives a cool feel and a refreshing feel. On the other hand, concentration occurs as the water evaporates, causing friction between the coated surfaces. A feeling of stickiness, creaking and stickiness due to the rise are often felt. In order to solve this problem, a method of reducing the change in the coating process by containing a large amount of oil and relatively reducing the water content can be considered. However, oiliness and stickiness due to a large amount of oil are unavoidable.

  The feel at the time of application as described above is generally evaluated by a sensory test by an expert, but the friction between the coated surface and the coated surface that affects the coating feel is numerically determined by the sliding stress. Attempts have also been made (Patent Document 3). According to this evaluation method, the change in sliding stress from the start of application to the end of application can be represented by a graph as shown in FIG. Sample 1 and sample 2 in FIG. 1 are typical behaviors exhibited by an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing a considerable amount of water. Assuming that the application end point is 300 seconds after the sliding stress value becomes almost a steady value, the sample 1 shows a rapid increase and decrease in the sliding stress during application, and converges at a low value at the end of application. In the sample 2, the sliding stress gradually increases during the application, and becomes high and steady after the latter half of the application. On the other hand, sample 3 has no significant fluctuation from the start of application to the end of application and maintains a low sliding stress. It does not feel stuck, squeaky, or sticky during use, and maintains a smooth and smooth feel. Has been.

JP-A-9-235301 JP 2010-6716 A JP-A-9-235301

  Therefore, the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic that contains a relatively small amount of oil and maintains a smooth feeling from the start of application to the end of application, that is, a sliding stress such as that of sample 3 in FIG. An object is to provide an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic exhibiting behavior.

  As a result of intensive studies in order to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that a specific anionic hydrophilic surfactant and a specific higher alcohol in an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing less than a predetermined amount of oil In combination, the cosmetics have a specific stress behavior in the sliding friction between the coated surfaces, have no stickiness, and provide a smooth feel from the start of application to the end of application. It has been found that an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic with excellent emulsification stability can be obtained by blending an alkyl glyceryl ester or ether, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention includes the following components (a) to (d):
(A) one or more selected from palmitoylmethyl taurine salt or palmitoyl amino acid salt,
(B) one or more selected from linear saturated higher alcohols,
(C) 1 or 2 or more types selected from monoalkyl glyceryl ester or monoalkyl glyceryl ether, and (d) containing less than 30% by mass of oil, the component (b) has an average carbon number of less than 19 There is provided an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic characterized by being.

  The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can provide a smooth feel from the start of application to the end of application, has no stickiness, and is excellent in emulsion stability.

It is a graph which shows the time change of the sliding stress behavior measured by the method described in patent documents 3.

The palmitoyl methyl taurine salt and / or palmitoyl amino acid salt (component (a)) used in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is a neutralized methyl taurine or basic amino acid to which a palmitoyl group has been added by an acylation reaction with an appropriate base. It is a hydrophilic (anionic) surfactant obtained. The component (a) in the present invention is characterized in that it has a palmitoyl (C ₁₅ H ₃₃ CO—) group as an acyl group, and other acyl groups such as stearoyl (C ₁₇ H ₃₅ CO—) group can be used. When added in place of methyl taurate added with, the smoothness of application tends not to last until the end. However, it does not preclude blending an anionic activator having another acyl group in addition to the activator having a palmitoyl group as long as the effects of the present invention are not affected.

  Specific examples of component (a) include palmitoylmethyl taurine sodium, palmitoyl methyl taurine potassium, palmitoyl methyl taurine triethanolamine, palmitoyl sarcosine sodium, palmitoyl sarcosine potassium, palmitoyl sarcosine triethanolamine, palmitoyl glutamate sodium, palmitoyl glutamate potassium, palmitoyl Examples include triethanolamine glutamate, sodium palmitoylarginine, potassium palmitoylarginine, and palmitoylarginine triethanolamine. Among these, one or more selected from palmitoylmethyl taurate, palmitoyl sarcosine, and palmitoyl glutamate are preferable, and palmitoyl methyl taurine sodium is most preferable.

  The compounding quantity of the component (a) in the emulsified cosmetics of this invention is 0.01-2 mass% normally, Preferably it is 0.02-1.5 mass%. If it is less than 0.01% by mass, emulsification will be poor, and if it exceeds 2% by mass, the function of the smooth feel may be impaired due to excessive components. In the case of further containing another hydrophilic active agent, it is preferable from the viewpoint of feel that the component (a) accounts for 50% or more, further 60% or more of the total hydrophilic active agent.

  The higher alcohol (component (b)) used in the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is one or more selected from linear saturated higher alcohols. In general, monohydric alcohols having 6 or more carbon atoms are collectively referred to as higher alcohols, but what is used in the present invention is a higher alcohol having an OH group at the end of an alkyl group having no branched and multiple bonds, and behenyl alcohol (carbon 22), stearyl alcohol (18 carbon atoms), cetearyl alcohol (16 to 18 carbon atoms), cetyl alcohol (16 carbon atoms), myristyl alcohol (14 carbon atoms) and the like.

The higher alcohol (component (b)) of the present invention is characterized in that its average carbon number is less than 19, preferably 18 or less. The “average carbon number” in the present specification is the number of carbons of the higher alcohol when only one kind of higher alcohol is blended, and the blending ratio thereof when blending two or more kinds of higher alcohols. Is the average number of carbons calculated based on For example, when a higher alcohol having 16 carbon atoms and 18 carbon atoms is blended at a ratio of 1: 1, the average carbon number is (16 + 18) / 2 = 17, and when blended at a ratio of 3: 1 (16 × 3 + 18) /4=16.5.
When the average number of carbon atoms of component (b) exceeds 19, a feeling of squeak is caused from the latter half of the coating to the end of the coating, resulting in poor smoothness.

  The compounding quantity of the component (b) in the emulsified cosmetics of this invention is 0.1-5 mass% normally, Preferably it is 0.2-4 mass%. When the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, the smooth function is hardly exhibited, and when the amount exceeds 5% by mass, there is a tendency for the feel of the residue to deteriorate.

The monoalkyl glyceryl ester or monoalkyl glyceryl ether (component (c)) used in the present invention is one in which one molecule of fatty acid or higher alcohol is ester-bonded or ether-bonded to one molecule of glycerin.
Specific examples include glyceryl monobehenate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, batyl alcohol, and chimyl alcohol. Among them, glyceryl monopalmitate or chimyl alcohol is preferable in terms of touch.

  The compounding quantity of the component (c) in the emulsified cosmetics of this invention is 0.05-4 mass% normally, Preferably it is 0.1-3 mass%. If the blending amount is less than 0.05% by mass or more than 5% by mass, the temporal stability of the cosmetic tends to deteriorate.

  Moreover, the compounding quantity of the oil component (component (d)) in the emulsified cosmetics of this invention is less than 30 mass%, Preferably it is less than 25 mass%, More preferably, it is less than 20 mass%. If the blending amount of the oil exceeds 30% by mass, an oily feel is produced at the time of application, which is not preferable.

  The oil used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used in cosmetics and the like. Examples thereof include oils and fats such as olive oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil and castor oil; waxes; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, paraffin, petrolatum, ceresin and squalane; higher fatty acids; esters; silicone oils and the like.

  In the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, powders, other surfactants, moisturizers, drugs, sequestering agents, lower alcohols, as long as they do not interfere with the effects of the present invention. , Polyhydric alcohols, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes and the like can be blended.

The emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be prepared by using a method usually used for producing an oil-in-water emulsion.
Further, the emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited. It can be provided in the form of an agent or the like.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail using specific examples. However, the scope of the present invention should not be limited by these examples. Moreover, the compounding quantity in a present Example is the mass% unless there is particular notice.

(Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-4)
The oil-in-water emulsion compositions having the compositions listed in Tables 1 and 2 below were prepared. Specifically, the components 1-3 and 14-22 listed in each table are uniformly dissolved and heated to 70 ° C., and the mixture of 4-13 mixed at 70 ° C. is added with stirring and dispersed uniformly. And cooled to 30 ° C. to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

  The composition prepared in each example was evaluated for smoothness, oiliness, and temporal stability at the time of application (from the start of application to the end of application) by the following evaluation methods. The results are also shown in each table.

Evaluation method and smoothness during application:
The emulsion characteristic evaluation apparatus described in Patent Document 3 was used. Specifically, it is an apparatus that measures the sliding stress generated in the probe when an emulsion is placed between the movable plate and the probe and the movable plate is reciprocated in the horizontal direction. It has been confirmed that there is a very good correlation with the results of sensory tests by a specialized panel. That is, when the sliding stress is increased, the smoothness is decreased, and when the sliding stress is decreased, the smoothness is increased (see FIG. 1).

In this example (comparative example), 5 μl of each composition sample was placed on a plate at 32 ° C., and the coating was repeated by reciprocating the probe for 300 seconds at a speed of 30 mm / sec. did. The following evaluation values (1) to (3) were obtained from the measured values.
(1) Average stress from the beginning of application of stress to 5 seconds after application of stress (2) Stress at the time of application from the start of application of stress to 300 seconds later, centering on the point of time when stress is maximum, ± 5 seconds at that point Average stress of (3) Stress at the end of coating Average stress from 290 seconds to 300 seconds after the start of coating Using the evaluation values (1) to (3) above, with the initial stress (1) applied as a reference, The smoothness during application and at the end of application was evaluated as follows.
Smooth during application: 0.5 ≦ (2) / (1) ≦ 3.5
Smooth at the end of coating: 0.5 ≦ (3) / (1) ≦ 2
That is, a sample exhibiting a behavior such as Sample 1 in FIG. 1 has a smoothness at the end of coating, but lacks a smoothness during coating, and a sample exhibiting a behavior such as Sample 2 is during and after coating. It lacks the smoothness at the end.

・ Oilness:
The case where 12 or more of the 20 sensory evaluation panels are evaluated as oily, X is the case where 11 to 9 are evaluated as oily, and the case where 8 or less are evaluated as oily. ○.

・ Stability over time:
The sample after storage for 6 months was observed under a crossed Nicol with a polarizing microscope. The case where there was no change immediately after the preparation was indicated as ◯, and the case where a crystal was observed was indicated as ×.

  In Examples 1 to 4 in which the essential components (a) to (d) of the present invention were blended, the change in sliding stress was small from the start of application to the end of application, and the same behavior as Sample 3 in FIG. 1 was exhibited. . In other words, there is little change such as an increase in friction due to concentration that often occurs during cosmetic application and a decrease in friction due to a change in the state of the applied components, and it can be applied while maintaining a smooth feel, and stability over time is also good. It was.

  On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 in which a higher alcohol having an average carbon number of more than 19 as component (b) was blended had a value of (2) / (1) larger than 3.5 and was inferior in smoothness during coating. . In Comparative Example 2 containing no monoalkyl glyceryl ester or monoalkyl glyceryl ether, crystallization of higher alcohol was observed over time and the stability over time was poor. In Comparative Example 3 in which the amount of oil exceeds 30% by mass, poor feel due to oiliness occurred. In Comparative Example 4 in which stearoylmethyl taurine sodium was blended in place of palmitoylmethyl taurine salt or palmitoyl amino acid salt, the value of (3) / (1) was greater than 2, and the smoothness did not continue until the end of coating. .

  Other examples of the present invention will be given below. The cosmetics of these examples were prepared by a conventional method and had good smoothness from the start of application to the end of application.

Example 5: Cream ingredient name POE (20) sorbitan stearate 0.5
2. Palmitoylmethyl taurine sodium 1.5
3. POE (5) glyceryl stearate 0.2
4). Cetyl alcohol 3
5. Stearyl alcohol 1
6). Glyceryl stearate 1.5
7). Mineral oil 15
8). Cetyl ethylhexanoate 5
9. N-lauroyl glutamate di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) 2
10. Panthenylethyl 0.1
11. Butylene glycol 10
12 Glycerin 2
13. Trehalose 2
14 Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1
15. Acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate (C10-30) copolymer potassium 0.03
16. Chelating agent appropriate amount17. Preservative appropriate amount 18. Water remaining

Example 6: Cosmetic liquid ingredient name Palmitoyl sarcosine sodium 0.2
2. Cetearyl alcohol 0.6
3. Glycerol palmitate 0.3
4). Dimethicone 5
5. Glyceryl diisostearate 1
6). Alcohol 5
7). Butylene glycol 10
8). Glycerin 1
9. Tranexamic acid methylamide hydrochloride 1
10. L-Arginine 1
11. (Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate /
Methenic acid behenes-25) cross polymer * 1 0.5
12 Chelating agent appropriate amount13. Preservative appropriate amount14. Water remaining amount * 1 ARITOFLEX HMB (Clariant Production UK Ltd.)

Example 7: Name of makeup base ingredient Palmitoylmethyl taurine triethanolamine 0.2
2. Behenez-20 0.1
3. Behenyl alcohol 0.4
4). Stearyl alcohol 0.6
5. Cetyl alcohol 1
6). Kimyl alcohol 0.5
7). Dimethicone Chris polymer / cyclopentasiloxane mixture * 2 7
8). Phenyltrimethicone 5
9. Alcohol 2
10. Dipropylene glycol 5
11. Talc 2
12 Citric acid 0.02
13. Sodium citrate 0.18
14 Cellulose gum 0.09
15. Chelating agent appropriate amount16. Preservative appropriate amount17. Water remaining * 2 DOW CORNING (registered trademark) 9040 SILICON ELASTOMER BLEND (Toray Dow Corning)

Claims (5)

The following components (a) to (d):
(A) one or more selected from palmitoylmethyl taurine salt or palmitoyl amino acid salt,
(B) one or more selected from linear saturated higher alcohols,
(C) 1 or 2 or more types selected from monoalkyl glyceryl ester or monoalkyl glyceryl ether, and (d) containing less than 30% by mass of oil, the component (b) has an average carbon number of less than 19 An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic characterized by being The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (a) is one or more selected from palmitoylmethyl taurine salt, palmitoyl sarcosine salt, and palmitoyl glutamate. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (a) is palmitoylmethyl taurine sodium. The average carbon number of a component (b) is 18 or less, Cosmetics as described in any one of Claim 1 to 3 characterized by the above-mentioned. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the component (c) is one or more selected from glyceryl monopalmitate or chimyl alcohol.