JP7284162B2 - Evaluation method for stress relieving base or cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for objectively evaluating the stress relieving properties of bases or cosmetics. Specifically, the present invention relates to a method for evaluating the stress relieving property of a base or cosmetic using the measured value of the frictional force of the base or cosmetic as an index.

When cosmetics such as lotions, milky lotions, and beauty essences are applied to the skin, the skin may feel burdened by rubbing, stinging, itching, tightness, sliminess, and stickiness. When such a feeling of burden on the skin is strong, applying cosmetics to the skin itself can be stressful.

On the other hand, it is known that touching the skin with one's own or another person's fingers has the effect of providing psychologically favorable comfort (Non-Patent Documents 1 to 3). Furthermore, it has been reported that psychological effects such as comfort become even better when the skin is touched by using a cosmetic that feels good to the touch, compared to when such a cosmetic is not used ( Non-Patent Document 3). Therefore, it is thought that it is possible to reduce stress and improve the user's mood by using a cosmetic that is less burdensome on the skin, has a good feel, and is capable of highly psychologically effective skin care. Such cosmetics are particularly important for those who feel a strong burden on their skin.

However, the feel and psychological effects of cosmetics on the skin differ depending on individual skin quality and sensations, and are largely subjective, so it is difficult to objectively judge them. At present, it is possible to evaluate by, for example, questionnaires, examinations using trained panelists, VAS methods, and the like. However, as described above, feeling and psychology are largely dependent on individual subjectivity, so if an attempt is made to improve accuracy, surveys by trained panelists or large-scale surveys by a large number of people are required. As a result, it takes time to train panelists, and it is difficult to secure an appropriate number of subjects. There is also a method of evaluating the feel by using a keratin film, a compression tester, etc. (Patent Documents 1 to 3), but it not only has a good feel but also has a favorable psychological effect by further objective indicators. There is a demand for a search for cosmetics that provide

In addition, when a salesperson or beauty counselor recommends cosmetics to a customer, currently, salespersons and beauty counselors rely on subjective judgment to determine what kind of cosmetics are appropriate for the customer. In addition, it is usual to give cosmetics advice to customers. Therefore, subjective elements such as the experience and intuition of the salesperson or counselor are involved, and there is a possibility that differences in judgment may occur depending on the skill, resulting in a lack of objectivity. In addition, based only on subjective judgment, there is a risk that a customer who feels a strong burden on the skin may be recommended a cosmetic that causes a strong burden on the skin, which may increase the customer's stress.

JP 2017-72397 A JP-A-2015-3870 JP 2017-101063 A

Loken et. al., "Coding of pleasant touch by unmyelinated afferents in humans", NATURE NEUROSCIENCE, Brief communications, published online 12 April 2009; doi:10.1038/nn.2312 Morrison et. al., "Reduced C-afferent fiber density affects perceived pleasantness and empathy for touch", BRAIN A JOURNAL OF NEUROLOGY, 2011: 134; 1116-1126, Advance Access publication March 4, 2011; doi:10.1093/brain/ awr011 Guest et. al., "Sensory and affective judgments of skin during inter- and intrapersonal touch", Acta Psychologica 130 (2009) 115-126, Available online 6 December 2008; doi:10.1016/j.actpsy.2008.10.007 Ishikubo et al., Analysis of Friction Behavior and Evaluation of Conformity Feeling during Emulsion Application Using a New Cosmetic Friction Tester, Cosmetic Journal, Vol. 43, No. 3, pp.171-176 (2009) Kreibig et al, The psychophysiology of mixed emotional states, Psychophysiology. 2013 Aug;50(8):799-811. Miyagawa et al., Autonomic nerve function evaluation by pulse wave amplitude analysis during emotional stress stimulation on a mobile terminal, Clinical neurophysiology 40(6): 540-546, 2012 Yoshida et al., Evaluation of autonomic nerve function during emotional stress stimulation using finger plethysmogram analysis, Biomedical Engineering 49(1): 91-99, 2011

As described above, the feel and psychological effects of cosmetics on the skin differ from person to person, and the evaluation also varies greatly depending on the experience and skill of each evaluator. Therefore, it is strongly desired to evaluate and screen cosmetics that have a good feel, a low sense of burden, and a psychologically favorable effect by an objective index.

The present inventors have devoted themselves to research to discover objective indices for judging the user's favorable feel and psychological effects of cosmetics. Since the feel of such cosmetics is due to the base, the present inventors have made extensive research on cosmetic bases as well. As a result, it was found that by measuring the frictional behavior of bases and cosmetics, it is possible to evaluate and screen bases and cosmetics that have a favorable feeling of familiarity, a low burden, and an excellent stress-relieving effect. .

In particular, bases and cosmetics that exhibit low overall friction and exhibit a frictional behavior that once rises and then falls or levels off are evaluated as bases and cosmetics that have a favorable feeling of familiarity and a low sense of burden. Physiological evaluation was found to be good.

The present application provides the following inventions.
(1)
A method for evaluating a stress-relieving base or cosmetic,
Measuring the dynamic friction force during application of the test base or cosmetic;
Evaluating the stress relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction;
including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is reached when the base or cosmetic is applied. The above-described method, wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated as having a stress-relieving effect when the dynamic frictional force falls within a range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when the stress is not applied.
(2)
A screening method for a stress-relieving base or cosmetic,
Measuring the dynamic friction force during application of the test base or cosmetic;
Determining the stress relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction;
including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is reached when the base or cosmetic is applied. The above method, wherein the test base or cosmetic is judged to have an effect of alleviating stress when the dynamic frictional force falls within a range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when the stress is not applied.
(3)
When a base or cosmetic that has been evaluated or judged to be effective in relieving stress by the above method is applied to the skin, the feeling of familiarity begins to be obtained 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, and exceeds 40 seconds. The method according to (1) or (2), which is completed in less than 70 seconds.
(4)
A vertical load of 50 mm/sec and 50 gf was applied by a coating contactor having a coating area of 1 cm ² on which Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd.'s artificial leather (product number: PBZ13001) was mounted on a substrate. (1) If the maximum value of the dynamic friction force is lower than 45 gf when the test base or cosmetic is applied under the The method according to any one of (3). In addition to the artificial leather, the substrate may be a coating substrate that substitutes for the skin, that is, a skin substitute membrane (plate) that imitates the sulcus cutis and the carpus of a predetermined site, for example, a product manufactured by Shiseido Co., Ltd. used for SPF measurement of sunscreens. "SPF MASTER PA01", etc., can also be used, but it is not limited to this. In addition to the contactor described above, a finger model imitating the shape and mechanical properties of a human finger, such as a finger model made of urethane resin, can also be used as the contactor, but is not limited to this. .
(5)
When the magnitude of change in the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is within the range of 40 to 65% of the maximum value of the dynamic frictional force, the test base or cosmetic has the effect of relieving stress. The method according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the method is evaluated to be present.
(6)
Any one of (1) to (5), wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated as having a stress-relieving effect when the dynamic frictional force continues to decrease after passing through the change point. the method of.
(7)
A beauty counseling method or a recommendation method for supporting a subject's beauty treatment,
A composition containing a stress-relieving base that is evaluated or judged to have stress-relieving effects by the method according to any one of (1) to (6), or a stress-relieving agent for subjects who strongly feel a burden on the skin. The above method, comprising presenting an emollient cosmetic.
(8)
further comprising measuring the subject's burden grade by frequency of post-washing sensations;
The method according to (7), wherein the subject who strongly feels the burden on the skin is a person judged to have a high burden feeling grade by the measurement.
(9)
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is the same as when cosmetics are not applied. A cosmetic for relieving stress, wherein the dynamic frictional force is in the range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value.
(10)
For the total weight of the cosmetics,
0.2 to 0.6% by weight of carboxy silicone; or
0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone and 0.3-4.0% by weight of dimethicone; or
(ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate) crosspolymer 0.3-0.5% by weight; or
9.0% by weight or more of total glycerin and dihydric glycol, 1.0-5.0% by weight of EO/PO addition polymer, and 0.1-0.2% by weight of xanthan gum; or
9.0% by weight or more as the total of glycerin and divalent glycol, 0.1% by weight or more of EO/PO addition polymer, (acryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium/beheneth-25 methacrylate) crosspolymer 0.3-0.5% by weight, and xanthan gum 0.02-0.8% by weight % by weight; or
9.0% by weight or more of total glycerin and dihydric glycol, 0.1% by weight or more of EO/PO addition polymer, 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxy silicone, 0.3-4.0% by weight of dimethicone, 0.3-0.7% by weight of higher alcohol, olefin oligomer 0.3-2.0% by weight, and 0.05-2.0% by weight of polyacrylic acid;
(9) Cosmetics according to.
(11)
The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), wherein the cosmetic is an oil-in-water emulsion composition.
(12)
The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), wherein the cosmetic is a lotion or serum.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to simply and objectively evaluate the stress relieving property of a base material or cosmetic based on the frictional force. Therefore, it is possible to easily screen base materials for preparing cosmetics with high stress relieving properties regardless of the staff's experience and skills. In addition, it is possible to reduce the variation in judgment by staff and provide counseling at a certain level, and to propose cosmetics that are suitable for customers who feel a strong feeling of strain on the skin, and which have a favorable feeling of familiarity and lack of friction.

FIG. 1 shows the relationship between friction and comfort. The left figure shows the case where the sandpaper is rubbed against the skin on the inside of the forearm, and the right figure shows the case where it is rubbed with a finger. FIG. 2 shows the "comfort", "preference", and "no stress" when women who feel burden on their skin use base T or base Q. FIG. Figure 3 shows the evaluation of each item related to “comfort,” “preference,” “no stress,” and usability during and after application when women who feel a burden on their skin use base T or base Q. shows the results of multiple regression analysis. Numerical values in the table indicate the Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficient for each item. ** indicates items with significant correlation (p<0.05) with Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficient significance test (p<0.05) , where × indicates items with no significant correlation. FIG. 4 shows the behavior and physiological response of a woman who feels a burden on her skin when applying base T or base Q to her face. The left figure shows the time from the time when a woman who feels a burden on her skin starts applying the base T or base Q to the end of the application operation (seconds). The figure on the right shows the change in pulse wave amplitude (a.u.: arbitrary unit) for 10 seconds after the start of application of base T or base Q on the face of a woman who feels a burden on her skin. FIG. 5 shows the relationship between the familiarity time of the base and the comfort when the base T or base Q was applied to the face of a woman who feels a burden on her skin. The figure above shows the relationship between comfort evaluation and familiarization time (seconds). The figure below shows the relationship between pulse wave amplitude change (a.u.: arbitrary unit) and familiarization start time (seconds) for subjects whose pulse wave amplitude change was positive. FIG. 6 shows the results of principal component analysis on the feel evaluation results of each test base relative to the control base T by feel evaluation experts. The horizontal axis indicates the first principal component, and the vertical axis indicates the second principal component. FIG. 7 shows dynamic friction behavior from the start of application of each base to 250 seconds. FIG. 8 shows dynamic friction behavior from the start of application of each base to 600 seconds. FIG. 9 is a diagram showing the relationship between the principal component analysis results of FIG. 6 and the dynamic friction behavior of each base. The friction behavior shown for each base in the figure is the dynamic friction behavior in FIG. 8 reduced for each base, and the XY axes of each graph are the same as those in FIG. FIG. 10 shows the characteristics of the dynamic friction behavior of each base (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water), and the evaluation results after continuous use of each base for 3 days by burden grade A group and B group. This is a table summarizing

As used herein, the term "feeling of burden on the skin" refers to an unpleasant feeling physically felt by the user when the cosmetic or its base is applied to the skin. For example, irritation such as tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling, tightness, pain, hot flashes, heat sensations, itchy sensations, itchy sensations, sensations such as dryness and pain, pressure sensations such as sliminess and stickiness, and rubbing sensations. It may include a feeling of friction and the like, but is not limited to these.

In this specification, a subject who strongly feels a burden on the skin refers to a person who feels the above-described feeling of burden on the skin to a high degree or frequency. For example, it may be a person classified into Grade A or Grade B according to the burden feeling grade described in the Examples. In addition, the present inventors have found that the burden feeling grade and the perception of sensitive skin are in good agreement, so it may be a person who feels that he or she has sensitive skin. Furthermore, for example, it may be a person who consciously or unconsciously feels a burden on the skin due to factors such as season, weather, physical condition, and psychological state, but is not limited to these.

As used herein, the term "stress" refers to the stress that a user feels when applying cosmetics such as lotions, milky lotions, and beauty essences or their bases to the skin. For example, it refers to discomfort consciously or unconsciously caused by applying cosmetics or bases with a strong sense of burden to the skin. A conscious discomfort can be evaluated by sensory evaluation or the like. However, although we are not conscious that using cosmetics or bases is stressful, we may unconsciously feel discomfort. Stress in the present specification includes such unconscious discomfort. Unconscious discomfort can be evaluated by autonomic nerve indices such as pulse wave amplitude, pulse rate, and heart rate. For example, it has been reported that the pulse wave amplitude changes due to various sensory stimuli and increases reflecting comfort such as music, fragrance, and images, but decreases when stress is felt (Non-Patent Document 5). 7), it is possible to measure the pulse wave amplitude and use it as an index of stress.

On the other hand, as described above, it has also been reported that when the skin is touched with a cosmetic that has a pleasant feel, the skin feels comfortable and has a favorable psychological effect (Non-Patent Document 3). Such comfort, like discomfort, may be felt consciously or unconsciously, and can be evaluated by subjective psychological evaluation, autonomic nerve indices such as pulse wave amplitude, and the like. In addition, if you feel comfortable on your skin, you will look forward to using the cosmetic every day, your mood will improve, and you will feel happy and cheerful even after using it. be.

Therefore, in the present specification, stress relief means not only the effect of reducing discomfort as described above, but also the effect of feeling comfortable on the skin by using cosmetics or bases, so that you can feel calm and happy. It also includes, but is not limited to, positive psychological effects during and after use such as uplifting, uplifting, positive feeling, and increased concentration.

As used herein, the term "frictional force" refers to the frictional force when a base or cosmetic is applied. Frictional force includes dynamic frictional force and static frictional force, both of which can be measured with a commercially available friction measuring instrument or the like. In certain embodiments, frictional force may also refer to dynamic frictional force. Here, it has been reported that the smoother the texture of the cosmetic, the better the comfort (Non-Patent Document 3). In addition, the inventors of the present invention have shown that there is a negative correlation between the feeling of friction and comfort (Example Experiment 1). However, depending on how strong the frictional force of the base material or cosmetic is, how it behaves in what time frame, and what kind of behavior it exhibits, the feeling of the skin is good, the feeling of burden on the skin is small, and the stress relieving property that gives comfort. It was completely unknown whether a base or cosmetic could be obtained. Therefore, the present inventors investigated the correspondence between the frictional behavior of the base or cosmetic and the sensation felt by the subject during and after application, as well as the psychological and physiological effects.

As a result of intensive research by the present inventors, it has been found that a base or cosmetic that has a low overall frictional force and exhibits a frictional behavior that once rises and then falls or levels off has a favorable feeling of familiarity and relieves stress with a low feeling of burden on the skin. It was found to be highly evaluated as a natural base or cosmetic. Therefore, the present invention is based on the new discovery by the present inventors that the stress relieving property that a base or cosmetic gives to the skin can be measured by the behavior of frictional force.

Accordingly, the present application provides a method for evaluating and screening a stress relieving base or cosmetic, which includes a step of evaluating the stress relieving property using the measured value of the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic as an index.

In the evaluation, the kinetic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is generally low, and the base or cosmetic having a pattern of once rising and then falling or leveling off is evaluated as having the effect of relieving stress. may

The dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is generally low when the maximum value of the dynamic friction of the test base or cosmetic is compared to the maximum value of the dynamic friction when the base or cosmetic is not applied. may be low, e.g., less than 10%, less than 20%, less than 30%, less than 40%, less than 50%, less than 60%, less than 70%, less than 80%, or less than 90%, constant for example, 20-90%, 25-85%, 30-80%, 35-75%, 40-75%, 45-70%.

The maximum value of the dynamic friction force may mean the maximum value within 250 seconds after the start of measurement. Here, depending on the base material or cosmetic, the dynamic friction force may drop immediately after the start of measurement and then rise. The maximum value within 250 seconds after the start of measurement after the rise.

In addition, when the dynamic friction force is low overall, the dynamic friction force including the maximum value is generally used for bags, seats, etc., using a friction measuring device such as Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab) Artificial leather, for example, PBZ13001 manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd. A probe with a coating area of 1 cm ² equipped with the artificial leather on a smooth substrate, that is, a coating with a coating area of 1 cm ² When the base or cosmetic is applied under a vertical load of 50mm/sec/50gf with a contactor for 55gf, 50gf, 45gf, or less than 40gf, the maximum value of dynamic friction is within a certain range 20 gf to 50 gf, 20 gf to 45 gf, 25 gf to 50 gf, 25 gf to 45 gf, 30 gf to 50 gf, or 30 gf to 45 gf. Here, depending on the base or cosmetic, at the start of measurement and immediately after the start of measurement, for example, 0 to about 5 seconds, 0 to about 6 seconds, 0 to about 7 seconds, 0 to about 8 seconds, 0 to about 9 seconds after measurement , the dynamic friction force may drop from 0 to about 10 seconds, and then rise, but the phrase “the dynamic friction force is generally low” may not include the values at the start of measurement and immediately after. The friction measuring instrument, artificial leather, substrate, contactor, etc. are not limited to these. For example, as a substrate, in addition to the artificial leather, a coating substrate that substitutes for the skin, that is, a skin substitute membrane (plate) that imitates the sulcus cutis and the carpus of a predetermined site, for example, Shiseido Co., Ltd. used for SPF measurement of sunscreen "SPF MASTER PA01" manufactured by Epson Co., Ltd. can also be used, but the present invention is not limited to this. In addition to the contactor described above, a finger model imitating the shape and mechanical properties of a human finger, such as a finger model made of urethane resin, can also be used as the contactor, but is not limited to this. .

The pattern in which the kinetic friction force of the test base or cosmetic material rises and then falls or levels off is that the slope of the kinetic friction force, that is, the value obtained by differentiating the kinetic friction force with respect to time, is a positive value up to the change point. After exceeding , it becomes a negative value, becomes zero, or stays at a low value, and the dynamic friction force after the change point descends or becomes stagnant. Here, the change point refers to the point in time when the slope of the dynamic friction force (the time derivative of the dynamic friction force) after the dynamic friction force once rises drops significantly. It is not the point of change that rises after that.

In addition, the dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic preferably increases after the start of measurement, and the start time of the increase is, for example, 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 20 seconds, 25 seconds, 30 seconds, 35 seconds after the start of measurement. Preferably less than seconds, 40 seconds, 45 seconds or 50 seconds. In addition, it is preferable that the dynamic friction force continue to rise, for example, up to a change point after starting to rise. The change point is preferably within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. Such preferable change points are, for example, within 100 seconds, within 105 seconds, within 110 seconds, within 115 seconds, within 120 seconds, within 125 seconds, within 130 seconds, within 135 seconds, within 140 seconds, within 145 seconds after the start of measurement. Seconds, within 150 seconds.

Furthermore, in some cases, a base or cosmetic in which the kinetic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic rises and then falls is preferred. In some cases, a base or cosmetic in which the kinetic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic rises once and then levels off is preferred.

Moreover, it is preferable that the dynamic frictional force is varied within an appropriate range. For example, when the minimum value of the dynamic friction force is preferably within the range of 15% to 75%, 20% to 70%, 25% to 70%, 30% to 70%, 35% to 65%, 35% to 60% of the maximum value There is In addition, the magnitude of change with respect to the maximum value of dynamic friction (difference between maximum and minimum values) is 15-75%, 20-70%, 25-70%, 30-70%, 35-65%, 40- It may be preferred to be in the range of 65%. In addition, for example, the difference between the minimum value and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force can be measured using a friction measuring device such as Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab). On a smooth substrate equipped with artificial leather such as PBZ13001 manufactured by Japan Co., Ltd., a probe with an area of 1 cm ² equipped with the artificial leather, that is, a contact for application having a coating area of 1 cm ² was used at a speed of 50 mm / In some cases, it is preferred to be in the range of 5 gf to 50 gf, 10 gf to 45 gf, or 15 gf to 45 gf when the base or cosmetic is applied under a vertical load of sec·50 gf. Note that the friction measuring instrument, artificial leather, substrate, contactor, etc. are not limited to these as described above. As with the definition of the maximum value, the minimum value and magnitude of change in dynamic friction here refer to values up to 250 seconds after the start of measurement. It is not the value at the start of the measurement or immediately after the measurement, but the value from the rise after the fall to 250 seconds after the start of the measurement.

In addition, it is conceivable that the reason why the above-mentioned frictional behavior is preferable is related not only to the sense of burden, but also to the "familiarity" that has been reported to be related to frictional force (Non-Patent Document 4). . It is also possible that when the kinetic friction increases and a sense of change is felt, a feeling of familiarity arises and comfort is felt, and after that, if the friction is low, it will have a favorable effect on the psychological state after application. be.

The feeling of familiarity refers to the feeling that the base or cosmetic penetrates into the skin. Familiarity can be measured by sensory evaluation by a touch evaluation expert who has undergone specific training. Familiarity has been reported to be related to frictional force, but the relationship between familiarity and stress relief has not been clarified. However, the inventors of the present invention have found that a slow blending feeling when applied to the skin is stressful, and conversely, quick blending is related to comfort and stress relieving properties. In particular, it was found that the stress relieving effect is high when the break-in period is 20 seconds or more and less than 40 seconds after application and the break-in period is 40 seconds or more and less than 70 seconds.

Here, the term "beginning of familiarity" refers to the time when the subject begins to feel a feeling of familiarity after the base or cosmetic is applied to the skin. It can be measured by measuring the time it takes to declare that The term “completion completion” refers to the time when the subject finishes feeling the familiarity after applying the base or cosmetic to the skin. can be measured by

The time to start running in may be preferably, for example, 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, or 35 seconds or less or 30 seconds or less after application. In some cases, the run-in completion time is preferably more than 40 seconds and less than 70 seconds after application, or 65 seconds or less, or 60 seconds or less after application.

A base refers to a basic raw material that is made according to the texture and feeling of use of a cosmetic. Examples of bases include, but are not limited to, aqueous bases, silicone soap bases, oily bases, emulsifying bases, and the like. Examples of cosmetics include serums, milky lotions, lotions, lotions, creams, and the like. The form of the base or cosmetic may be liquid, emulsion, cream, spray, foam, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, etc., but is not limited thereto.

The present invention also provides a stress-relieving base or a stress-relieving cosmetic evaluated or determined to have stress-relieving effects by the method of the present invention. For example, in the present invention, the dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is To provide a stress relieving cosmetic having a dynamic frictional force within a range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value when no agent or cosmetic is applied.

In addition, the present invention includes presenting a composition or stress-relieving cosmetic composition containing a stress-relieving base evaluated or determined to have stress-relieving effects to a subject who feels a strong sense of strain on the skin. To provide a beauty counseling method or a recommendation method for supporting the beauty treatment of women. In addition, the method according to the present application is intended for cosmetic purposes, and may exclude medical practices performed by doctors and medical professionals.

In addition, typical examples of the composition of the base or cosmetic that exhibit the above-described preferred frictional behavior include glycerin, dihydric glycol, EO/PO addition polymer, carboxysilicone, dimethicone, higher alcohol, olefin oligomer, It is believed that the blending amounts of components such as polyacrylic acid, crosspolymer, and xanthan gum have an effect. For example, compositions 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 below are preferred as examples of bases or cosmetics. Also, based on the total weight of the base or cosmetic ingredients, it contains 0.2 to 0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone, 0.2 to 0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone and 0.3 to 4.0% by weight of dimethicone, or (acryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium/methacrylic It may be preferred that the base or cosmetic contains 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of the acid beheneth-25) crosspolymer. However, the composition is not limited to such a composition, and any composition that exhibits the preferred frictional behavior described above is within the scope of the base or cosmetic of the present invention.

As long as the frictional behavior is within the range of the present invention, the base and cosmetic of the present invention can optionally be used together with additives selected arbitrarily. Additives include colorants, preservatives, binders, disintegrants, stabilizers, antioxidants, surfactants, pH adjusters, oils, water, alcohols, chelating agents, fragrances, various medicinal ingredients, preservatives. , a neutralizing agent, etc. can be appropriately selected and used.

The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples. In addition, this invention is not limited by this.

Experiment 1: Relationship between Friction and Comfort It has been reported that the smoother the cosmetic, the more comfortable it is, suggesting that the friction and comfort are related (Non-Patent Document 3). Therefore, we investigated the relationship between the feeling of friction and comfort. The subject was a woman who felt a sense of stress on her skin, that is, after washing her face, she felt one of the following sensations: "stinging, tingling, prickling, chilling,""tightness,""pain,""hot flash, heat," and "tingling, itching." They are 16 adult women who have healthy skin and fall under the burden feeling grade A or B described in Experiment 5-1 below. Three types of 3M sandpaper with different roughness (standards: A, B, and C) were rubbed on the skin of the inner part of the forearm or on the finger, and the subjective "friction feeling" was evaluated by VAS. The level of "comfort" was evaluated.

The results are shown in FIG. It can be seen from FIG. 1 that there is a negative correlation between friction and comfort. In other words, it is shown that the skin and fingers are not comfortable enough to feel high friction. Therefore, in the following experiment, the correspondence between feeling during and after application of the base and frictional behavior was investigated by the following sensory evaluation, psychological evaluation, physiological evaluation, and physical property evaluation.

Experiment 2: Sensory evaluation (definition of positioning of low burden feeling base and high burden feeling base)
It was performed by women (16 women) who feel the above-mentioned feeling of burden on the skin. Base T or base Q having the composition shown in Table 3 was used. After washing the face, these subjects applied base T or base Q to their faces with their fingers, and evaluated "comfort", "preference", "no stress", and usability during and after application in Table 2 below. The items described in 1 were evaluated on a 7-point scale. Further, multiple regression analysis was performed using the following multiple regression equation (Equation 1) using the explanatory variables listed in Table 2 with “comfort,” “preference,” and “no stress” as objective variables.

The results are shown in FIG. When base T was used, "comfort", "preference" and "stress free" were significantly higher than when base Q was used (Brunner-Munzei test). In addition, in the multiple regression analysis of Fig. 3, "comfort", "preference" and "stress free" were significantly correlated with "smoothness" and "lightness of spread" related to friction. In addition, "comfort," "preference," and "no stress" were positively correlated with "familiarization speed," and negatively correlated with "familiarization start time" and "familiarization end time." Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficient is shown in the table of Fig. 3. The X mark in the table indicates that no significant correlation with a p-value of 0.05 or more was observed.Significance of Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficient Test: Analysis by Trifields).

Experiment 3: Physiological Evaluation In addition, the pulse wave amplitude was measured for 10 seconds after the start of application of Base T or Base Q to the face of subjects under the same conditions as in Experiments 1 and 2. As described above, the pulse wave amplitude change can be used as an index of the autonomic nervous system that can measure the comfort that is physiologically felt unconsciously, even if it is not felt unconsciously. A higher pulse wave amplitude change indicates physiological comfort. A pulse wave amplitude change is obtained by attaching a photoelectric sensor to the earlobe, passing light having an absorption band in hemoglobin by the measurement method described in Non-Patent Document 7, and measuring the transmitted light. It was measured as the difference between the pulse wave amplitude during application and the pulse wave amplitude at rest before application. In addition, the familiar feeling time was defined as the time when the subject started applying to the face, and the time from the application start time until the subject declared that he had started to feel familiar. The time until the end of the coating operation was measured as the "familiarization end time". In addition, the test subjects were asked to evaluate the feeling of "comfort" with respect to base T or base Q in 7 grades, and the relationship between the evaluation of comfort and the familiarity time was investigated. Furthermore, we investigated the habituation start time of subjects who had a positive change in pulse wave amplitude, that is, who felt physiologically comfortable unconsciously.

The results are shown in FIGS. From FIG. 4, it was found that when base T was used, the change in pulse wave amplitude compared to before application was significantly higher than when base Q was used, and the subject felt physiologically comfortable even unconsciously. In addition, the familiarity finish time was 70 seconds when the base Q was used, but it was 60 seconds when the base T was used, indicating that the shorter the familiarity finish time, the better. In addition, according to FIG. 5, it is felt that the user feels particularly comfortable when the break-in time is short, specifically, the start of break-in is about 20 seconds or more and about 40 seconds or less, and the break-in end is over about 40 seconds and less than about 70 seconds. I understand.

Based on the results of the sensory evaluation in Experiment 2 and the physiological evaluation in Experiment 3, the subjective evaluations of “comfort,” “preference,” and “no stress” were good for base T, and even unconsciously, the subject felt comfortable. It was found to be a base that can be used and has a low feeling of burden on the skin. On the other hand, Base Q was found to be a base with a high feeling of burden on the skin, with low scores in all of the above evaluations. Therefore, the base T was defined as a low burden base and the base Q was defined as a high burden base, and the following experiments were carried out.

Experiment 4: Physical property evaluation Next, in order to visualize the appropriate range of physical properties of the base that bring about such favorable comfort, no stress, low feeling of burden on the skin, physiological state and familiarity time, various methods are used as follows. The physical properties of the base were evaluated.

Experiment 4-1: Evaluation of Base by Feel Evaluation Experts About 20 kinds of tests with the compositions shown in Table 3 were conducted by 10 female feel evaluation experts who are well-trained experts in evaluating the feel of cosmetics when using cosmetics. The feeling of use when using the base was evaluated. That is, the control base T, which was found to be a comfortable base both in the subjective sensory evaluation of Experiment 2 and in the physiological evaluation of Experiment 3, and the test base were applied to half of the face, respectively. , Using the control base T as a reference, the feeling of use of the test base for each item listed in Table 4 below is -3, -2, - as a relative evaluation of the test base when base T is set to 0 1, 0, +1, +2, +3 were performed in seven steps.

As a result, we found that the feeling of "no stickiness", "lightness of spread", "no creaking", "no feeling of film", "no oiliness", and "smoothness". The bases L, R, I got S and J. On the other hand, Base Q was low in the values of the above-mentioned feeling, "preference", "comfort", and "fastness of adaptation". Furthermore, the evaluation results obtained in the above experiments were analyzed by principal component analysis using software SIMCA (manufactured by Umetrics). The results of principal component analysis are shown in FIG. In particular, it was found that highly evaluated bases such as base T and bases L, R, S, and J are positioned around the area surrounded by a rectangle in FIG. do). Bases within this appropriate range have high values for evaluation items related to feel, “preference,” “comfort,” and “quickness of blending.” tended to be highly rated. On the other hand, it was shown that Base Q, which had a low evaluation, was located outside the proper range, and for the other bases, there was a tendency for the evaluation to be lower as the base deviated farther from the proper range.

Experiment 4-2: Coating Friction Behavior of Base In order to investigate what kind of physical properties the base in the proper range as seen in Experiment 4-1 has, the base (T, L, R, S, J) and the unfavorable base (Q) and water were measured for application friction behavior. Measurement was performed using Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab Co., ^Ltd. ). Using an application contactor (probe) with an application area of 1 × 1 cm ² fitted with the same artificial leather as above, reciprocating application was performed under the conditions of an application distance of 5 cm, an application speed of 5 cm/sec, and a vertical load of 50 gf. It was carried out by measuring dynamic friction force for 10 minutes.

Results are shown in FIGS. As can be seen in these figures, the kinetic frictional forces of bases T, L, R, S, and J started to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, and rose to a change point that occurred within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. kept doing. Further, the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after starting to rise of the base materials T, L, R, S and J was within the range of about 30 gf to 42 gf. On the other hand, water and base material Q did not exhibit such dynamic friction behavior, and continued to rise even after 150 seconds had elapsed from the start of measurement. Furthermore, the maximum frictional force of the substrate alone, water, and base Q was higher than the maximum frictional forces of bases T, L, R, S, and J, and was around 60 gf to 62 gf. These frictional behaviors are shown numerically in FIG. The frictional force at the change point of base materials T, L, R, S, and J with good evaluation, that is, the maximum frictional force (about 30 gf to 42 gf) is about 45 It can be seen that it is within the range of (≒30gf/62gf×100) to 70% (≒42gf/62gf×100).

In addition, it was found that the variation of the dynamic frictional force of the base with good evaluation was within a certain range. For example, base J, which has the largest change among bases with good evaluation, has a minimum value of about 15 gf and a maximum value of about 42 gf, and the magnitude of change from the maximum value is about 65% (64.2% ≈ (42 gf -15 gf)/42 gf × 100), and the minimum value of base S, which has the smallest change, is about 18 gf and the maximum value is about 30 gf, and the magnitude of change with respect to the maximum value is 40% (=(30 gf-18 gf )/30gf×100). In other words, the magnitude of change with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force of bases with good evaluations was within the range of about 40 to 65%. On the other hand, the dynamic friction force in the case of only the substrate does not fluctuate much, the minimum value is about 45gf and the maximum value is about 62gf, the minimum value to the maximum value exceeds 70%, and the magnitude of the change with respect to the maximum value was less than 30% (27.4%≒(62gf-45gf)/62gf×100). Conversely, base material Q, which was not evaluated favorably, had a large change in dynamic friction, with a minimum value of about 18 gf and a maximum value of about 62 gf. was over 70% (71.0%≒(62gf-18gf/62gf)×100). From the above results, it was found that it is preferable that the dynamic frictional force of base materials and cosmetics that give a low sense of burden fluctuate within an appropriate range, and that fluctuations that are too large or too small are not preferred.

Experiment 5: Psychological Evaluation From Experiment 4, it is suggested that bases exhibiting low overall friction and exhibiting a frictional behavior that once rises and then falls or levels off are highly effective as stress relieving agents. Therefore, we examined the psychological effect of continuous use of each base on subjects who feel burden on the skin.

Experiment 5-1: Selection of Subjects Feeling Feeling of Burden on Skin Based on the following criteria, the “feeling of burden grade” was determined. Among adult women with healthy skin who feel any of the following sensations after washing their face: tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling, tightness, pain, hot flashes/hotness, and tickling/itching , Grade A for those who feel the above sensations "every time" or "frequently" after washing their face; (group that always feels), grade B for those who feel "sometimes" or "rarely"; Those who did not feel it were classified as grade C; (the group that did not feel it).

Experiment 5-2: Evaluation of Stress Relieving Effect by Continuous Use 60 subjects of the burden grade A group and 60 subjects of the B group selected according to the criteria of Experiment 5-1 were surveyed. Subjects continuously used the test base (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water) on the entire face for 3 days, and evaluated palatability, stress-freeness, and comfort after 3 days of continuous use on a 7-point scale. .

FIG. 10 shows the results. Among the bases that were preferred by more than half, those with particularly high evaluations (more than half in Top 2 out of 7 levels) are indicated by ◎, and those with high evaluations (in Top 3 out of 7 levels by more than half) are indicated by 〇. rice field. Evaluations of "stress free" and "comfort" are also shown in the same way. The mind care effect of the test base was evaluated as follows. Regarding the items of "I feel positive", "I feel calm", "I feel relaxed", "I am protected", and "I feel energetic", before the test base application and test base 3 After daily use, each product was evaluated on a 5-point scale. Regarding the difference between the evaluation value after 3 days of continuous use of the test base and the evaluation value before application of the test base, that is, the degree of increase, the base evaluated as having an average value of 0.5 or more in the degree of increase of these items ◎, 0 to 0.5 Bases rated as less than were indicated as ◯.

It can be seen that subjects with a high sense of burden grade prefer bases that have low overall friction and show friction behavior that rises once and then declines or levels off, and evaluates bases as stress-free and comfortable. Furthermore, according to psychological questionnaires before and after continuous use for 3 days, these bases were found to be "positive", "calm", "relaxed", "protected", and "energetic". It was also found to have the psychological effect of becoming On the other hand, it was found that not only did such an effect not be observed with the base (Q) and water, which had high friction as a whole, but the application was stressful.

In addition, the higher the burden grade, the more comfortable the base (T, J), which once increased and then decreased, was evaluated as more comfortable than the base (R, L), which did not. It was found to be highly sexual. This tendency was more pronounced as the burden grade was higher (data not shown). This is thought to be related to the fact that if the frictional force remains high, the burden will remain on the skin indefinitely, but if the frictional force rises slowly and does not change too much, people will feel unsatisfactory. Therefore, it can be seen that it is more preferable to propose a base material in which the frictional force once increases and then decreases for subjects with a high burden feeling grade.

From the above results, it was found that the bases evaluated or screened by the method of the present application have a low feeling of burden on the skin, are comfortable, have a high degree of preference, and have a high stress-relief effect. Furthermore, it was found that the stress relieving effect of these bases extended during and after application.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention makes it possible to easily and objectively evaluate the feeling of burden on the skin by using the dynamic frictional force of the base or cosmetic as an index. Moreover, based on such a method, it becomes possible to provide an appropriate cosmetic to a subject having a high feeling of strain on the skin. In addition, by using the dynamic frictional force of the base or cosmetic as an index, it becomes possible to easily perform screening for searching for a base or cosmetic that causes less burden on the skin.

Claims (7)

A method for evaluating a stress-relieving base or cosmetic,
Measuring the dynamic friction force during application of the test base or cosmetic;
Evaluating the stress relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction;
including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is reached when the base or cosmetic is applied. The above-described method, wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated as having a stress-relieving effect when the dynamic frictional force falls within a range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when the stress is not applied. A screening method for a stress-relieving base or cosmetic,
Measuring the dynamic friction force during application of the test base or cosmetic;
Determining the stress relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction;
including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to a change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is reached when the base or cosmetic is applied. The above method, wherein the test base or cosmetic is judged to have an effect of alleviating stress when the dynamic frictional force falls within a range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when the stress is not applied. When a base or cosmetic that has been evaluated or judged to be effective in relieving stress by the above method is applied to the skin, the feeling of familiarity begins to be obtained 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, and exceeds 40 seconds. 3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, which finishes in less than 70 seconds. When the magnitude of change in the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is within the range of 40 to 65% of the maximum value of the dynamic frictional force, the test base or cosmetic has the effect of relieving stress. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that there is. 5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated as having a stress-relieving effect when the dynamic frictional force continues to decrease after passing the change point. . A beauty counseling method or a recommendation method for supporting a subject's beauty treatment,
A composition containing a stress-relieving base evaluated or judged to have stress-relieving effects by the method according to at least any one of claims 1 to 5, or stress-relieving, for a subject who strongly feels a burden on the skin. said method comprising presenting a sexual cosmetic. further comprising measuring the subject's burden grade by frequency of post-washing sensations;
7. The method according to claim 6, wherein the subject who strongly feels the burden feeling on the skin is a person judged to have a high burden feeling grade by the measurement.

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