JPWO2019235269A1 - Evaluation method of stress-relieving base or cosmetics - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a method for objectively evaluating and screening the stress-relieving property of a base or cosmetic. A method for evaluating and screening stress relieving properties using a measured value of frictional force of a base or cosmetic as an index, a composition containing a stress relieving base evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by such a method, or a composition containing a stress relieving base. Provide beauty counseling or recommendation methods, including presenting stress-relieving cosmetics.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for objectively evaluating the stress relieving property of a base or cosmetic. Specifically, the present invention relates to a method for evaluating the stress relieving property of the base or cosmetic using the measured value of the frictional force of the base or cosmetic as an index.

When cosmetics such as lotion, milky lotion, and serum are applied to the skin, the feeling of burden on the skin such as rubbing, tingling, muffled, taut, slimy, and sticky may become a problem. If such a feeling of burden on the skin is strong, applying the cosmetic to the skin itself can be stressful.

On the other hand, it is known that when oneself or another person's fingers touch the skin, it has the effect of giving psychologically favorable comfort (Non-Patent Documents 1 to 3). Furthermore, it has been reported that when the skin is touched by using a cosmetic that feels good, the psychological effects such as comfort are further improved as compared with the case where such a cosmetic is not used (). Non-Patent Document 3). Therefore, it is considered that it is possible to reduce stress and improve the mood of the user by using a cosmetic that has less burden on the skin, has a good feel, and is capable of skin care with a high psychological effect. Such cosmetics are especially important for those who feel a strong feeling of burden on the skin.

However, it is difficult to objectively judge the feel and psychological effect of cosmetics on the skin because it depends on the individual's skin type and sensation and is largely subjective. At present, it is possible to evaluate by, for example, a questionnaire, a test using a trained panelist, a VAS method, and the like. However, as mentioned above, the feel and psychology are largely dependent on the subjectivity of the individual, so in order to improve accuracy, a survey by trained panelists and a large-scale survey by a large number of people are required. Then, it takes time to train the panelists, and it is difficult to secure an appropriate number of subjects. There is also a method of evaluating the feel by using a keratin film, a compression tester, etc. (Patent Documents 1 to 3), but the effect is psychologically favorable as well as having a good feel by a further objective index. There is a need to search for cosmetics that give.

In addition, when a salesperson or a beauty counselor recommends a cosmetic to a customer, at present, the salesperson or the beauty counselor relies on a subjective judgment to determine what kind of cosmetic is appropriate for the customer. In addition, it is usual to give cosmetic advice to customers. Therefore, since subjective factors such as the experience and intuition of sales staff and counselors are involved, there is a problem that the judgment may differ depending on the skill and the objectivity is poor. In addition, based only on subjective judgment, there is a risk of recommending a cosmetic having a strong feeling of skin burden to a customer who feels a strong feeling of burden on the skin, which may increase the stress of the customer.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2017-72397 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2015-3870 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2017-101063

Loken et. Al., "Coding of pleasant touch by unmyelinated afferents in humans", NATURE NEUROSCIENCE, Brief communications, published online 12 April 2009; doi: 10.1038 / nn.2312 Morrison et. Al., "Reduced C-afferent fibre density affects perceived pleasantness and empathy for touch", BRAIN A JOURNAL OF NEUROLOGY, 2011: 134; 1116-1126, Advance Access publication March 4, 2011; doi: 10.1093 / brain / awr011 Guest et. Al., "Sensory and affective judgments of skin during inter- and intrapersonal touch", Acta Psychologica 130 (2009) 115-126, Available online 6 December 2008; doi: 10.1016 / j.actpsy.2008.10.007 Ishikubo et al., Analysis of friction behavior during application of emulsion by a new cosmetic friction tester and evaluation of familiarity, Cosmetics Magazine, Vol. 43, No. 3, pp.171-176 (2009) Kreibig et al, The psychophysiology of mixed emotional states, Psychophysiology. 2013 Aug; 50 (8): 799-811. Miyagawa et al., Evaluation of autonomic nervous function by pulse wave amplitude analysis during emotional stress stimulation on mobile terminals, Clinical Neurophysiology 40 (6): 540-546, 2012 Yoshida et al., Evaluation of autonomic nervous function during emotional stress stimulation using fingertip volume pulse wave analysis, Biomedical Engineering 49 (1): 91-99, 2011

As described above, the feel and psychological effect of cosmetics on the skin differ from person to person, and the evaluation also varies greatly depending on the experience and skill of each evaluator. Therefore, it is eagerly desired to evaluate and screen a cosmetic that has a good feel, a low burden, and a psychologically favorable effect based on an objective index.

The present inventors have diligently studied to find an objective index for judging a user's favorable feeling and psychological effect on cosmetics. Since the feel of such a cosmetic is due to the base, the present inventors have also diligently studied the cosmetic base. As a result, it was found that by measuring the frictional behavior of the base or cosmetic, it is possible to evaluate and screen the base and cosmetic having a favorable familiar feeling and a low burden feeling and an excellent stress-relieving effect. ..

In particular, bases and cosmetics that have low friction as a whole and exhibit frictional behavior that rises once and then falls or level off are sensory evaluations, psychological evaluations, and cosmetics as low-burden bases and cosmetics having a favorable familiar feeling. It was found that the physiological evaluation was good.

The present application provides the following inventions.
(1)
A method for evaluating stress-relieving bases or cosmetics.
Measuring the dynamic friction force when applying the test base or cosmetic;
To evaluate the stress-relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction force;
Including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is applied to the base or cosmetics. The method for evaluating that the test base or cosmetic has an effect of relieving stress when it is within the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when not used.
(2)
A method for screening stress-relieving bases or cosmetics.
Measuring the dynamic friction force when applying the test base or cosmetic;
Judging the stress-relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction force;
Including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is applied to the base or cosmetics. The method for determining that the test base or cosmetic has an effect of relieving stress when it is within the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when not used.
(3)
When a base or cosmetic that has been evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by the above method is applied to the skin, a familiar feeling begins to be obtained within 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, and exceeds 40 seconds. The method according to (1) or (2), which is completed in less than 70 seconds.
(4)
Vertical load at a speed of 50 mm / sec / 50 gf by a contactor for coating with a coating area of ^{1 cm 2} on a substrate on which artificial leather manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd. (product number: PBZ13001) is mounted. When the test base or cosmetic is applied below, when the maximum value of the dynamic friction force is lower than 45 gf, the test base or cosmetic is evaluated to have an effect of relieving stress, (1). The method according to any one of (3). As the substrate, in addition to the artificial leather, a coating substrate that substitutes for the skin, that is, a skin substitute membrane (plate) that imitates the skin groove and the skin hill of a predetermined part, for example, manufactured by Shiseido Co., Ltd. used for SPF measurement of a sunscreen. "SPF MASTER PA01" and the like can also be used, but the present invention is not limited to this. Further, as the contactor, in addition to the above-mentioned contactor, a finger model that imitates the morphology and mechanical characteristics of a human finger, for example, a finger model made of urethane resin, or the like can be used, but is not limited thereto. ..
(5)
When the magnitude of the change in the dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is within the range of 40 to 65% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force, the test base or cosmetic has the effect of relieving stress. The method according to any one of (1) to (4), which is evaluated to be present.
(6)
The item according to any one of (1) to (5), wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated to have an effect of relieving stress when the dynamic friction force continues to decrease after passing the change point. the method of.
(7)
A cosmetology counseling method or recommendation method that supports the subject's cosmetology.
A composition or stress containing a stress-relieving base evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by the method according to any one of (1) to (6) for a subject who strongly feels a burden on the skin. The method described above, comprising presenting a palliative cosmetic.
(8)
Further including measuring the burden grade of the subject by the frequency of sensation after face washing, including
The method according to (7), wherein the subject who strongly feels the feeling of burden on the skin is a person who is judged to have a high feeling of burden on the skin by the measurement.
(9)
When the dynamic friction force starts to rise 30 seconds before the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is not applied with cosmetics. A stress-relieving cosmetic characterized by being in the range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of dynamic friction force.
(10)
For the total weight of the cosmetic
Contains 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone; or
Contains 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone and 0.3-4.0% by weight of dimethicone; or
(Acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / Behenez methacrylate-25) Contains 0.3-0.5% by weight of crosspolymer; or
Contains 9.0% by weight or more of glycerin and divalent glycol, 1.0 to 5.0% by weight of EO / PO addition polymer, and 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of xanthan gum;
The total value of glycerin and divalent glycol is 9.0% by weight or more, EO / PO addition polymer is 0.1% by weight or more, (acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / Behenes methacrylate-25) crosspolymer 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, and xanthan gum 0.02 to 0.8. Includes% by weight; or
The total value of glycerin and dihydric glycol is 9.0% by weight or more, EO / PO addition polymer 0.1% by weight or more, carboxysilicone 0.2 to 0.6% by weight, dimethicone 0.3 to 4.0% by weight, higher alcohol 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, olefin oligomer. Contains 0.3-2.0 wt% and 0.05-2.0 wt% polyacrylic acid;
The cosmetic according to (9).
(11)
The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), wherein the cosmetic is an oil-in-water emulsified composition.
(12)
The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), wherein the cosmetic is a lotion or a beauty essence.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, the stress relieving property of a base or cosmetic can be easily and objectively evaluated based on the frictional force. Therefore, it is possible to easily screen the base for producing a cosmetic having a high stress-relieving property regardless of the experience and skill of the staff. In addition, it is possible to reduce variations in judgments by staff and provide counseling at a certain level, and to propose appropriate cosmetics with no friction and familiarity to customers who feel a strong feeling of burden on the skin.

FIG. 1 shows the relationship between friction and comfort. The figure on the left shows the case where the sandpaper is rubbed with the skin on the inside of the forearm, and the figure on the right shows the case where the sandpaper is rubbed with the fingers. FIG. 2 shows "comfort," "preference," and "no stress" when a woman who feels a burden on the skin uses the base T or the base Q. Fig. 3 shows the evaluation of each item regarding "comfort," "preference," "no stress," and usability during and after application when a woman who feels a burden on the skin uses base T or base Q. The result of multiple regression analysis is shown. The numerical values in the table indicate Pearson's product moment correlation coefficient for each item. ** indicates items that were significantly correlated with all items of "preference", "no stress", and "comfort" by the significance test (p <0.05) of Pearson's product moment correlation coefficient. It is shown, and × indicates an item that has no significant correlation. FIG. 4 shows the behavior and physiological reaction when a woman who feels a burden on the skin applies base T or base Q to her face. The figure on the left shows the time from the time when a woman who feels a feeling of burden on the skin starts applying the base T or the base Q to the face to the end of the application operation as the "familiar end time" (seconds). The figure on the right shows a change in pulse wave amplitude (a.u .: arbitrary unit) for 10 seconds from the start of application of base T or base Q to the face of a woman who feels a burden on the skin. FIG. 5 shows the relationship between the familiarity time of the base and the comfort when a woman who feels a burden on the skin applies the base T or the base Q to the face. The figure above shows the relationship between the evaluation of comfort and the familiarity time (seconds). The figure below shows the relationship between the pulse wave amplitude change (a.u .: arbitrary unit) and the familiarization start time (seconds) for the subjects whose pulse wave amplitude change was positive. FIG. 6 shows the results of principal component analysis of the results of usability evaluation of each test base with respect to the control base T by a tactile evaluation expert. The horizontal axis represents the first principal component and the vertical axis represents the second principal component. FIG. 7 shows the dynamic friction behavior from the start of application of each base to 250 seconds. FIG. 8 shows the dynamic friction behavior from the start of application of each base to 600 seconds. FIG. 9 is a diagram showing the relationship between the results of principal component analysis of FIG. 6 and the dynamic friction behavior of each base. The frictional behavior shown for each base in the figure is a reduction of the dynamic friction behavior of FIG. 8 for each base, and the XY axis of each graph is the same as that of FIG. FIG. 10 shows the characteristics of the dynamic friction behavior of each base (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water) and the evaluation results of each base by the burden feeling grades A and B after 3 days of continuous use. It is a table that summarizes.

In the present specification, the feeling of burden on the skin refers to an unpleasant feeling physically felt by the user when the cosmetic or the base thereof is applied to the skin. For example, irritation such as "tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling," "tightness," "pain," "hotness, heat," "muscularity, itching," feeling of dryness, pain, oppressive feeling of sliminess, stickiness, and rubbing. It may include a feeling of friction and the like, but is not limited to these.

In the present specification, the subject who strongly feels the feeling of burden on the skin refers to a person who feels the feeling of burden on the skin and has a high frequency. For example, a person who is classified into grade A or grade B according to the burden feeling grade described in the examples may be used. In addition, since the present inventors have found that the burden feeling grade and the consciousness of sensitive skin are in good agreement, the person may feel that he / she has sensitive skin. Further, for example, a person may consciously or unconsciously feel a feeling of burden on the skin due to various factors such as season, weather, physical condition, and psychological state, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

In the present specification, the stress refers to the stress felt by the user when applying a cosmetic such as a lotion, a milky lotion, or a beauty essence or a base thereof to the skin. For example, it refers to discomfort consciously or unconsciously by applying a cosmetic or base having a strong feeling of burden to the skin. The conscious discomfort can be evaluated by sensory evaluation or the like. However, although the use of cosmetics or bases is not conscious of stress, it may be unconsciously unpleasant. The stress herein also includes such unconscious discomfort. Unconscious discomfort can be evaluated by autonomic nerve indexes such as pulse wave amplitude, pulse and heartbeat. For example, it has been reported that the pulse wave amplitude changes due to various sensory stimuli and increases reflecting a feeling of comfort such as music, fragrance, and images, but conversely decreases when stress is felt (Non-Patent Document 5). -7) Therefore, it is possible to measure the pulse wave amplitude and use it as an index of stress.

On the other hand, as described above, it has also been reported that when the skin is touched with a cosmetic having a good feel, it feels comfortable and the psychological effect is improved (Non-Patent Document 3). Similar to discomfort, such comfort may be felt consciously or unconsciously, and can be evaluated by subjective psychological evaluation, autonomic nerve index such as pulse wave amplitude, and the like. Also, when you feel comfortable on your skin, you may be looking forward to using the cosmetics every day, you may feel better, you may feel happy after using it, or you may feel cheerful. is there.

Therefore, in the present specification, stress relief means not only the action of reducing discomfort as described above, but also the feeling of comfort on the skin by using a cosmetic or a base, which makes the person feel calm and happy. It includes, but is not limited to, positive psychological effects during and after use, such as feelings, cheerfulness, positive feelings, and increased concentration.

As used herein, the frictional force refers to the frictional force when a base or cosmetic is applied. The frictional force includes dynamic frictional force and static frictional force, both of which can be measured with a commercially available friction measuring instrument or the like. In certain embodiments, the frictional force may also refer to a dynamic frictional force. Here, it has been reported that the smoother the feel of the cosmetic, the better the comfort (Non-Patent Document 3). In addition, the present inventors have shown that there is a negative correlation between friction and comfort (Example Experiment 1). However, how strong the frictional force of the base or cosmetics is, what kind of time frame and what kind of behavior it shows, the feeling on the skin is good, the feeling of burden on the skin is small, and the stress relieving property that gives comfort. It was completely unknown whether a base or cosmetic could be obtained. Therefore, the present inventors investigated the correspondence between the frictional behavior of the base or cosmetic and the sensation and psychological / physiological action felt by the subject during and after application.

As a result of diligent research by the present inventors, a base or cosmetic having a low frictional force as a whole and exhibiting a frictional behavior of once rising and then falling or leveling off has a favorable familiar feeling and stress relief with a low feeling of burden on the skin. It was found that it was highly evaluated as a sex base or cosmetic. Therefore, the present invention is based on a new discovery by the inventors of the present application that the stress-relieving property of a base or cosmetic on the skin can be measured by the behavior of frictional force.

Therefore, the present application provides an evaluation method and a screening method for a stress-relieving base or cosmetic, which comprises a step of evaluating stress-relieving property using a measured value of dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic as an index.

The evaluation evaluates that a base or cosmetic having a pattern in which the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is generally low and rises once and then falls or level off is effective in relieving stress. You may.

The overall low dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic means that the maximum dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is compared with the maximum dynamic friction force when the base or cosmetic is not applied. Low, eg, less than 10%, less than 20%, less than 30%, less than 40%, less than 50%, less than 60%, less than 70%, less than 80%, or less than 90%, constant It may be in the range of, for example, 20 to 90%, 25 to 85%, 30 to 80%, 35 to 75%, 40 to 75%, 45 to 70%.

The maximum value of the dynamic friction force may mean a value indicating the maximum value within 250 seconds after the start of measurement. Here, depending on the base or cosmetic, the dynamic friction force may decrease and then increase immediately after the start of measurement, but the maximum value of the dynamic friction force is not the one at the start of measurement or immediately after measurement but after the decrease. The value that indicates the maximum within 250 seconds after the start of measurement after rising.

In addition, the overall low dynamic friction force means that the dynamic friction force including the maximum value is generally used for bags, seats, etc. using a friction measuring instrument such as Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab). A probe with a coating area of ^{1 cm 2} mounted on a smooth substrate mounted with artificial leather, for example, PBZ13001 manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd., that is, a coating having a coating area of ^{1 cm 2.} The maximum value of dynamic friction may be less than 55gf, 50gf, 45gf, or 40gf when the base or cosmetic is applied under a vertical load of speed 50mm / sec · 50gf by the contactor. Among them, for example, it may be in the range of 20gf to 50gf, 20gf to 45gf, 25gf to 50gf, 25gf to 45gf, 30gf to 50gf, or 30gf to 45gf. Here, depending on the base or cosmetic, at the start of measurement and immediately after the start of measurement, for example, 0 to about 5 seconds, 0 to about 6 seconds, 0 to about 7 seconds, 0 to about 8 seconds, 0 to about 9 seconds from the measurement. , The dynamic friction force may decrease from 0 to about 10 seconds and then increase, but "the dynamic friction force is generally low" may not include the values at the start and immediately after the measurement. The friction measuring instrument, artificial leather, substrate, contactor, etc. are not limited to these. For example, as a substrate, in addition to the artificial leather, a coating substrate that substitutes for skin, that is, a skin substitute film (plate) that imitates a skin groove and a skin hill at a predetermined portion, for example, Shiseido Co., Ltd. used for measuring SPF of a sunscreen. "SPF MASTER PA01" manufactured by SPF MASTER PA01 and the like can also be used, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Further, as the contactor, in addition to the above-mentioned contactor, a finger model that imitates the morphology and mechanical characteristics of a human finger, for example, a finger model made of urethane resin, or the like can be used, but is not limited thereto. ..

The pattern in which the dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is once increased and then decreased or leveled off is the slope of the dynamic friction force, that is, the value obtained by differentiating the dynamic friction force with time is a positive value up to the change point, and the change point. After exceeding, it becomes a negative value, becomes zero, or stays at a low value, and the dynamic friction force after the change point decreases or becomes stagnant. Here, the change point refers to a time point at which the slope of the dynamic friction force (time derivative of the dynamic friction force) after the dynamic friction force once rises greatly decreases, and the frictional force decreases at the start of the above-mentioned measurement and immediately after the start of the measurement. It is not the time of change that then rises.

Further, the dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is preferably increased after the start of measurement, and the increase start time is, for example, 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 20 seconds, 25 seconds, 30 seconds, 35 seconds after the start of measurement. It is preferably before seconds, 40 seconds, 45 seconds, or 50 seconds. Further, it is preferable that the dynamic friction force continues to increase, for example, to the change point after the increase starts. The change point is preferably within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. Such preferable change points include, for example, within 100 seconds, within 105 seconds, within 110 seconds, within 115 seconds, within 120 seconds, within 125 seconds, within 130 seconds, within 135 seconds, within 140 seconds, and 145 after the start of measurement. Seconds, within 150 seconds.

Further, it may be preferable to use a base or cosmetic in which the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is once increased and then decreased. In some cases, a base or cosmetic in which the dynamic frictional force of the test base or cosmetic is once increased and then leveled off is preferable.

Further, it is preferable that the fluctuation of the dynamic friction force is within an appropriate range. For example, when the minimum value of the dynamic friction force is preferably in the range of 15 to 75%, 20 to 70%, 25 to 70%, 30 to 70%, 35 to 65%, and 35 to 60% of the maximum value. There is. In addition, the magnitude of change (difference between maximum and minimum values) with respect to the maximum value of dynamic friction force is 15 to 75%, 20 to 70%, 25 to 70%, 30 to 70%, 35 to 65%, 40 to. It may be preferable to be in the range of 65%. In addition, for example, the difference between the minimum value and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force is the difference between the minimum value and the maximum value, using a friction measuring instrument such as Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab), artificial leather generally used for bags and seats, for example, Ideatex. On a smooth substrate equipped with artificial leather such as PBZ13001 manufactured by Japan Co., Ltd., a probe with an area of ^{1 cm 2} equipped with the artificial leather, that is, a contactor for coating having a coating area of ^{1 cm 2 has a speed of 50 mm /} When the base or cosmetic is applied under a vertical load of sec · 50 gf, it may be preferably in the range of 5 gf to 50 gf, 10 gf to 45 gf, or 15 gf to 45 gf. The friction measuring instrument, artificial leather, substrate, contactor and the like are not limited to these as described above. Similar to the definition of the maximum value, the minimum value and the magnitude of change of the dynamic friction force here may also be the value up to 250 seconds after the start of measurement, and if the dynamic friction force decreases and then increases immediately after the start of measurement, that It is not the value at the start of measurement or immediately after measurement, but the value from the rise after falling to 250 seconds after the start of measurement.

Further, it is possible that the above-mentioned frictional behavior is preferable not only for the feeling of burden but also for the "familiarity" that has been reported to be related to the frictional force (Non-Patent Document 4). .. When the dynamic friction force rises and a feeling of change is felt, a feeling of familiarity occurs and a feeling of comfort is felt, and after that, a low friction force may have a positive effect on the psychological state after application. is there.

Familiarity refers to the sensation that the base or cosmetics soak into the skin. Familiarity can be measured by sensory evaluation by a specific trained tactile evaluation expert. Familiarity has been reported to be related to frictional forces, but the relationship between familiarity and stress relief was unknown. However, the present inventors have found that slow familiarity when applied to the skin is stress, and conversely, quick familiarity is related to comfort and stress relieving properties. In particular, it was found that the stress relieving effect is high when the beginning of familiarization is 20 seconds or more and less than 40 seconds after application and the end of familiarization is 40 seconds or more and less than 70 seconds.

Here, "beginning to become familiar" means that the subject begins to feel familiar after applying the base or cosmetic to the skin. For example, the time to start familiarizing is the time when the subject "begins to become familiar" from the application start time. It can be measured by measuring the time until the declaration is made. "Familiar end" means that the subject finishes feeling familiar after applying the base or cosmetic to the skin. For example, the familiar end time is to measure the time for the subject to finish the application operation. Can be measured by.

The familiarization start time may be, for example, 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, or 35 seconds or less and 30 seconds or less after application. In some cases, the familiarization end time is preferably more than 40 seconds and less than 70 seconds after application, or 65 seconds or less and 60 seconds or less after application.

The base refers to a basic raw material that is made according to the feel and feel of the cosmetic. Examples of the base include, but are not limited to, an aqueous base, a silicone soap-based base, an oil-based base, and an emulsifying base. Examples of cosmetics include beauty essences, milky lotions, lotions, lotions, creams and the like. The base and cosmetic forms may be in various forms such as liquid, milky, creamy, sprayy, foamy, oil-in-water type, water-in-oil type, and the like, but are not limited thereto.

The present invention also provides a stress-relieving base or a stress-relieving cosmetic that has been evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by the method of the present invention. For example, in the present invention, the dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is the basis. Provided is a stress-relieving cosmetic characterized in that it is in the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when no agent or cosmetic is applied.

The present invention also includes presenting a composition containing a stress-relieving base or a stress-relieving cosmetology that has been evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress to a subject who strongly feels a burden on the skin. Provide beauty counseling methods or recommendation methods to support cosmetology. In addition, the method according to the present application is for cosmetic purposes, and medical practices performed by doctors and medical professionals may be excluded.

Further, as a composition of a base or cosmetic exhibiting a preferable frictional behavior as described above, typically, for example, glycerin, divalent glycol, EO / PO addition polymer, carboxysilicone, dimethicone, higher alcohol, olefin oligomer, etc. It is considered that the blending amount of components such as polyacrylic acid, crosspolymer, and xanthan gum has an effect. For example, as an example of the base or cosmetic, the compositions 1 to 3 shown in Table 1 below are preferably mentioned. It also contains 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone, 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone and 0.3-4.0% by weight of dimethicone, or (acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / methacryl) with respect to the total weight of the base or cosmetic ingredient. Acid Behenes-25) In some cases, it may be a base or cosmetic containing 0.3-0.5% by weight of the crosspolymer. However, the composition is not limited to such a composition, and any composition exhibiting the above-mentioned preferable frictional behavior is within the range of the base or cosmetic of the present invention.

As long as the friction behavior of the base and cosmetics of the present invention is within the range of the present invention, additives can be arbitrarily selected and used in combination as necessary. Additives include colorants, preservatives, binders, disintegrants, stabilizers, antioxidants, surfactants, pH regulators, oils, water, alcohols, chelating agents, fragrances, various medicinal ingredients, preservatives , A known agent such as a neutralizing agent can be appropriately selected and used.

Next, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. The present invention is not limited thereto.

Experiment 1: Relationship between friction and comfort It has been reported that the smoother the cosmetic, the higher the comfort, suggesting that friction and comfort are related (Non-Patent Document 3). Therefore, we investigated the relationship between friction and comfort. The subject was a woman who felt a sense of burden on the skin, that is, after washing her face, she felt one of the following sensations: "tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling,""tightness,""pain,""hotness,heat," and "muscles and itching." There are 16 adult females who have healthy skin and who fall under the burden feeling grade A or B described in Experiment 5-1 below. Three types of sandpaper (standards; A, B, C) manufactured by 3M with different roughness are rubbed by the subject on the skin or fingers on the medial side of their forearm, and a subjective "friction feeling" is obtained by VAS. The level of "comfort" was evaluated.

The results are shown in FIG. From FIG. 1, it can be seen that there is a negative correlation between friction and comfort. That is, it was shown that neither the skin nor the fingers were comfortable enough to feel high friction, which is consistent with the report of Non-Patent Document 3. Therefore, in the following experiments, the correspondence between feelings during and after application of the base and frictional behavior was investigated by the following sensory evaluation, psychological evaluation, physiological evaluation, and physical property evaluation.

Experiment 2: Sensory evaluation (definition of positioning of low-burden sensation base and high-burden sensation base)
This was performed by 16 women who felt the burden on the skin. The base T or base Q having the composition shown in Table 3 was used. After washing the face, these subjects applied base T or base Q to the face with their fingers, and showed "comfort,""preference,""nostress," and usability during and after application in Table 2 below. The items described in 1 were evaluated on a 7-point scale. Further, the objective variables were set to "comfort", "preference", and "no stress", and multiple regression analysis was performed by the following multiple regression equation (Equation 1) using the explanatory variables shown in Table 2.

The results are shown in FIG. When base T was used, "comfort," "preference," and "no stress" were significantly higher than when base Q was used (Brunner-munzei test). Further, in the multiple regression analysis of FIG. 3, "comfort", "preference", and "no stress" were significantly correlated with "smoothness" and "lightness of spread" related to friction. In addition, "comfort," "preference," and "no stress" had a positive correlation with "quickness of familiarity" and a negative correlation with "familiar start time" and "familiar end time" (between each item). The Pearson product-moment correlation coefficient is shown in the table of FIG. 3. The x mark in the table indicates that no significant correlation was observed with a p-value of 0.05 or more. Significance of Pearson's product-moment correlation coefficient. Test: Analysis by Trifields).

Experiment 3: Physiological evaluation In addition, for the subjects under the same conditions as in Experiments 1 and 2, the pulse wave amplitude was also measured for 10 seconds during the application of the base T or the base Q to the face. As described above, the change in pulse wave amplitude can be used as an index of the autonomic nervous system that can measure the comfort that is physiologically felt unconsciously even if it is not felt unconsciously. The higher the pulse wave amplitude change, the more comfortable it is physiologically. The change in pulse wave amplitude is determined by measuring the transmitted light through light having an absorption band in hemoglobin by attaching a photoelectric sensor to the earlid and measuring the vertical amplitude of the waveform by the measurement method described in Non-Patent Document 7. It was measured as the difference between the pulse wave amplitude during application and the pulse wave amplitude at rest before application. In addition, the time of familiarity is defined as the time when the subject starts applying to the face, and the time from the application start time until the subject declares "beginning to become familiar" is defined as the "starting time of familiarity". The time until the coating operation was completed was measured as the "familiar end time". In addition, the subjects were asked to evaluate the feeling of "comfort" for the base T or the base Q on a 7-point scale, and the relationship between the evaluation of the comfort and the familiarity time was investigated. Furthermore, the familiar start time of the subjects who felt that the pulse wave amplitude change was positive, that is, unconsciously and physiologically comfortable, was investigated.

The results are shown in FIGS. 4 and 5. From FIG. 4, it was found that when the base T was used, the change in pulse wave amplitude was significantly higher than when the base Q was used, and the patient felt physiologically comfortable even unconsciously. Further, the end time of the familiar feeling when the base Q was used was 70 seconds, but when the base T was used, it was 60 seconds, and it was found that it is more comfortable if the familiar end time is somewhat earlier. Further, according to FIG. 5, the familiarization time is fast, specifically, when the familiarization start is about 20 seconds or more and about 40 seconds or less, and the familiarization end is more than about 40 seconds and less than about 70 seconds, it feels particularly comfortable. I understood it.

Based on the results of the sensory evaluation of Experiment 2 and the physiological evaluation of Experiment 3, the base T has good subjective evaluations of "comfort," "preference," and "no stress," and even unconsciously feels comfortable. It was found that it is a base material that can be used and has a low feeling of stress on the skin. On the other hand, the base Q was evaluated low in all of the above, and it was found that the base Q had a high feeling of burden on the skin. Therefore, the following experiments were performed by defining the base T as a low-burden sensation base and the base Q as a high-burden sensation base.

Experiment 4: Evaluation of physical characteristics Next, in order to visualize the appropriate range of physical characteristics of the base that brings about such favorable comfort, no stress, low feeling of burden on the skin, physiological condition and familiarity time, various methods are used as follows. The physical characteristics of the base were evaluated.

Experiment 4-1: Evaluation of base by tactile evaluation expert About 20 kinds of tests of the composition shown in Table 3 by 10 women of tactile evaluation expert who are well-trained experts on tactile evaluation when using cosmetics. The feeling of use when the base was used was evaluated. That is, the control base T and the test base, which were found to be comfortable bases in both the subjective sensory evaluation of Experiment 2 and the physiological evaluation of Experiment 3 by a subject with a sense of burden, were applied to each half face. As a relative evaluation of the test base when the base T is 0 for each item shown in Table 4 below, the feeling of use of the test base based on the control base T is -3, -2,-. It was performed in 7 steps according to the numerical values of 1, 0, +1, +2, and +3.

As a result, there is no feeling of stress on the skin such as "no stickiness", "lightness of spread", "no squeak", "no film feeling", "no oiliness", and "smoothness". Bases L, R, which have a good balance with the feeling of moisturizing such as "stress" and "softness" and have high values of "preference", "comfort", "quickness of familiarity" and "penetration". I got S and J. On the other hand, the base Q had low values of the above-mentioned feel, "preference", "comfort", and "quickness of familiarity". Furthermore, the evaluation results obtained in the above experiment were analyzed by principal component analysis using SIMCA (manufactured by Umetrics) software. The result of the principal component analysis is shown in FIG. In particular, it was found that the highly evaluated bases such as the base T and the bases L, R, S, and J are positioned around the region surrounded by the quadrangle in FIG. 6 (this region is referred to as the "appropriate region"). To do). The bases in this appropriate area have high evaluation items related to the above-mentioned feel, "preference", "comfort", and "quickness of familiarity", and the bases closer to the appropriate area have these values. The evaluation tended to be high. On the other hand, it was shown that the base Q having a low evaluation was located outside the appropriate region, and other bases tended to have lower evaluations as the bases deviated significantly from the appropriate region.

Experiment 4-2: Coating friction behavior of base In order to investigate what kind of physical properties the base in the proper region as seen in Experiment 4-1 has, the base (T,) which was evaluated well. The coating friction behavior was measured for L, R, S, J) and the base (Q) and water for which evaluation was not preferable. The measurement was performed using Tribomaster TL201Ts (manufactured by Trinity Lab), and a test base ^{with a coating amount of 1 μl / cm 2} was applied to a smooth substrate on which artificial leather (manufactured by Ideatex Japan Co., Ltd., product number: PBZ13001) was attached. Using a contactor (probe) for coating with an area of 1 x 1 cm ² with the same artificial leather as above, reciprocating coating is performed under the conditions of a coating distance of 5 cm, a coating speed of 5 cm / sec, and a vertical load of 50 gf. It was carried out by measuring the dynamic friction force for 10 minutes.

The results are shown in FIGS. 7, 8 and 9. As can be seen in these figures, the dynamic friction force of the bases T, L, R, S, and J starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, and rises to the change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. Continued to do. Further, the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of ascending of the bases T, L, R, S and J was in the range of about 30 gf to 42 gf. On the other hand, water and base Q did not show such dynamic friction behavior, and continued to rise even after 150 seconds had passed from the start of measurement. Further, the maximum frictional force of the substrate only, water, and the base Q was higher than the maximum frictional force of the bases T, L, R, S, and J, and was around 60 gf to 62 gf. These friction behaviors are shown numerically in FIG. The frictional force at the change points of the bases T, L, R, S, and J, which are well evaluated, that is, the maximum frictional force (about 30 gf to 42 gf) is about 45 with respect to the maximum frictional force (about 62 gf) of the substrate alone. It can be seen that it is within the range of (≈30 gf / 62 gf × 100) to 70% (≈ 42 gf / 62 gf × 100).

It was also found that the fluctuation of the dynamic friction force of the base, which was evaluated well, was within a certain range. For example, among the bases with good evaluation, the minimum value of the base J with the largest change is about 15 gf and the maximum value is about 42 gf, and the magnitude of the change with respect to the maximum value is about 65% (64.2% ≒ (42 gf). -15gf) / 42gf × 100), the minimum value of the base S with the smallest change is about 18gf, the maximum value is about 30gf, and the magnitude of the change with respect to the maximum value is 40% (= (30gf-18gf). ) / 30gf × 100). In other words, the magnitude of the change in the dynamic friction force of the base, which was well evaluated, with respect to the maximum value was in the range of about 40 to 65%. On the other hand, the dynamic friction force in the case of only the substrate does not fluctuate so much, the minimum value is about 45 gf and the maximum value is about 62 gf, the minimum value with respect to the maximum value exceeds 70%, and the magnitude of the change with respect to the maximum value. Was less than 30% (27.4% ≒ (62gf-45gf) / 62gf × 100). On the contrary, the dynamic friction of the base Q, which was not preferable for evaluation, fluctuates greatly, the minimum value is about 18 gf and the maximum value is about 62 gf, the minimum value for the maximum value is less than 30%, and the magnitude of the change with respect to the maximum value. Was over 70% (71.0% ≒ (62gf-18gf / 62gf) x 100). From the above results, it was found that the dynamic frictional force of the base or cosmetics having a low burden feeling preferably fluctuates within an appropriate range, and it is not preferable if the fluctuation is too large or conversely too small.

Experiment 5: Psychological evaluation From Experiment 4, it is suggested that a base having a low friction as a whole and showing a frictional behavior of once rising and then falling or leveling off is highly effective as a stress relieving agent. Therefore, we examined the psychological effects of continuous use of each base depending on the subject who feels a burden on the skin.

Experiment 5-1: Selection of subjects who feel a feeling of burden on the skin The "feeling of burden grade" was determined based on the following criteria. Among adult women who have some feeling of "tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling, tingling,""tightening,""pain,""hotness,heat,""muscles,itching," and having healthy skin after washing their face. Grade A for those who feel the above-mentioned sensations "every time" or "frequently" after washing their face; (group that always feels), grade B for those who feel "occasionally" or "rarely"; (group that sometimes feels), " Those who "do not feel" were classified as grade C; (group that does not feel).

Experiment 5-2: Evaluation of stress relieving effect by continuous use 60 subjects in group A and 60 subjects in group B were selected according to the criteria of experiment 5-1. The subjects used the test bases (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water) continuously for 3 days on all faces, and evaluated the palatability, stress-freeness, and comfort after 3 days of continuous use on a 7-point scale. ..

The results are shown in FIG. Among the bases preferred by the majority or more, those with a particularly high evaluation (more than half in Top 2 out of 7 grades) are shown as ◎, and those with high evaluation (more than half in Top 3 out of 7 grades) are shown as 〇. It was. The evaluation of "no stress" and "comfort" is also shown in the same way. The mind care effect of the test base was evaluated as follows. Before applying the test base and test base 3 for the items of "feeling positive", "feeling calm", "feeling relaxed", "self-protected", and "getting well" After daily use, evaluation was performed on a 5-point scale. Regarding the difference between the evaluation value after 3 days of continuous use of the test base and the evaluation value before application of the test base, that is, the degree of increase, the base evaluated that the average value of the degree of increase of these items is 0.5 or more is ◎, 0 to 0.5. Bases evaluated as less than are shown as 〇.

It can be seen that the subjects with a high burden feeling grade prefer a base having a low friction as a whole and exhibit a friction behavior of once rising and then falling or leveling off, and are evaluated as a stress-free and comfortable base. Furthermore, according to a psychological questionnaire before and after 3 days of continuous use, these bases were "feeling positive", "feeling calm", "feeling relaxed", "self-protected", and "energetic". It was also found to have a psychological effect of "becoming". On the other hand, it was found that not only such an effect was not observed with the base (Q) and water having high friction as a whole, but also the application was stressful.

Furthermore, the higher the burden grade, the more comfortable the bases (T, J) whose frictional force rises and then the lower, are evaluated as more comfortable than the bases (R, L) that do not, and the palatability and stress relief are alleviated. It turned out that the sex is also high. This tendency was more pronounced as the burden grade was higher (data not shown). This is thought to be related to the fact that if the frictional force remains high, the burden on the skin will remain forever, but if the frictional force rises slowly and does not change too much, it will feel unsatisfactory. Therefore, it can be seen that it is more preferable to propose a base in which the frictional force increases once and then decreases for an object having a high burden feeling grade.

From the above results, it was found that the base evaluated or screened by the method of the present application has a low feeling of burden on the skin, is comfortable, has a high palatability, and has a fast start and end time of familiarization and a high stress relieving effect. Furthermore, it was also found that the stress-relieving effect of these bases extended during and after application.

The present invention makes it possible to easily and objectively evaluate the feeling of burden on the skin by using the dynamic friction force of the base or cosmetic as an index. Further, based on such a method, it becomes possible to provide an appropriate cosmetic to a target having a high feeling of burden on the skin. Further, by using the dynamic friction force of the base or cosmetic as an index, it becomes possible to easily perform screening for searching for a base or cosmetic having a low feeling of burden on the skin.

Claims (11)

A method for evaluating stress-relieving bases or cosmetics.
Measuring the dynamic friction force when applying the test base or cosmetic;
To evaluate the stress-relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction force;
Including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is applied to the base or cosmetics. The method for evaluating that the test base or cosmetic has an effect of relieving stress when it is within the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when not used. A method for screening stress-relieving bases or cosmetics.
Measuring the dynamic friction force when applying the test base or cosmetic;
Judging the stress-relieving effect of the test base or cosmetic from the measured dynamic friction force;
Including
The dynamic friction force starts to rise before 30 seconds after the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point that occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is applied to the base or cosmetics. The method for determining that the test base or cosmetic has an effect of relieving stress when it is within the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force when not used. When a base or cosmetic that has been evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by the above method is applied to the skin, a familiar feeling begins to be obtained within 20 seconds or more and 40 seconds or less after application, and exceeds 40 seconds. The method according to claim 1 or 2, which is completed in less than 70 seconds. When the magnitude of the change in the dynamic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is within the range of 40 to 65% with respect to the maximum value of the dynamic friction force, the test base or cosmetic has the effect of relieving stress. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is evaluated as being present. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the test base or cosmetic is evaluated to have an effect of relieving stress when the dynamic friction force continues to decrease after passing the change point. .. A cosmetology counseling method or recommendation method that supports the subject's cosmetology.
A composition containing a stress-relieving base or a stress-relieving base that has been evaluated or judged to have an effect of relieving stress by the method according to at least one of claims 1 to 5 for a subject who strongly feels a burden on the skin. Said method comprising presenting a sex cosmetic. Further including measuring the burden grade of the subject by the frequency of sensation after face washing, including
The method according to claim 6, wherein the subject who strongly feels the feeling of burden on the skin is a person who is judged to have a high feeling of burden on the skin by the measurement. When the dynamic friction force starts to rise 30 seconds before the start of measurement, continues to rise to the change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the dynamic friction force after the start of the rise is not applied with cosmetics. A stress-relieving cosmetic characterized by being in the range of 45 to 70% of the maximum value of dynamic friction force. For the total weight of the cosmetic
Contains 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone; or
Contains 0.2-0.6% by weight of carboxysilicone and 0.3-4.0% by weight of dimethicone; or
(Acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / Behenez methacrylate-25) Contains 0.3-0.5% by weight of crosspolymer; or
Contains 9.0% by weight or more of glycerin and divalent glycol, 1.0 to 5.0% by weight of EO / PO addition polymer, and 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of xanthan gum;
The total value of glycerin and divalent glycol is 9.0% by weight or more, EO / PO addition polymer is 0.1% by weight or more, (acryloyldimethyltaurine ammonium / Behenes methacrylate-25) crosspolymer 0.3 to 0.5% by weight, and xanthan gum 0.02 to 0.8. Includes% by weight; or
The total value of glycerin and dihydric glycol is 9.0% by weight or more, EO / PO addition polymer 0.1% by weight or more, carboxysilicone 0.2 to 0.6% by weight, dimethicone 0.3 to 4.0% by weight, higher alcohol 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, olefin oligomer. Contains 0.3-2.0 wt% and 0.05-2.0 wt% polyacrylic acid;
The cosmetic according to claim 8. The cosmetic according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the cosmetic is an oil-in-water emulsified composition. The cosmetic according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the cosmetic is a lotion or a beauty essence.

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