CN112272774A

CN112272774A - Method for evaluating pressure-relaxing base or cosmetic

Info

Publication number: CN112272774A
Application number: CN201980038197.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 武冈永里子; 野水千枝子; 寺田敏明; 谷田正弘
Original assignee: Shiseido Co Ltd
Current assignee: Shiseido Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-06-08
Filing date: 2019-05-24
Publication date: 2021-01-26
Anticipated expiration: 2039-05-24
Also published as: CN112272774B; WO2019235269A1; JP7284162B2; JP7454076B2; JP2023057098A; JPWO2019235269A1

Abstract

Provided is a method for objectively evaluating/screening the stress relaxation property of a base or a cosmetic. Provided are a method for evaluating and screening pressure relaxation properties using a measured value of the frictional force of a base or a cosmetic as an index, and a cosmetic counseling method or recommendation method for a composition or a pressure relaxation cosmetic containing a pressure relaxation base evaluated or judged to have an effect of relaxing pressure by such a method.

Description

Method for evaluating pressure-relaxing base or cosmetic

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a method for objectively evaluating the stress relaxation property of a base or a cosmetic. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for evaluating the pressure relaxation property of a base or a cosmetic by using a measured value of the frictional force of the base or the cosmetic as an index.

Background

When cosmetics such as lotions, milky lotions, beauty lotions and the like are applied to the skin, the feeling of burden on the skin such as rubbing, stinging, itching, distending pain, sliminess and stickiness may be problematic. If such a feeling of skin load is strong, applying a cosmetic to the skin itself may become a stress.

On the other hand, it is known that if the fingers of the user's own person or another person come into contact with the skin, the effect of giving satisfactory comfort is psychologically obtained (non-patent documents 1 to 3). Further, it has been reported that if a cosmetic good in touch feeling is used and the skin is in contact with the cosmetic, the psychological effect such as comfort is further improved as compared with the case where such a cosmetic is not used (non-patent document 3). Therefore, it is considered that stress can be reduced and the mood of the user can be improved by a cosmetic which is less likely to be applied to the skin, has a good tactile sensation, and can perform skin care with a high psychological effect. Such cosmetics are particularly important for people who strongly feel a feeling of skin burden.

However, the tactile sensation and psychological effect of cosmetics on the skin vary depending on the individual skin type, feeling, and the like, and are large in subjective part, and thus it is difficult to objectively determine. Currently, evaluation can be performed by, for example, questionnaires, examinations using trained evaluation groups, VAS methods, and the like. However, since the sense of touch and the psychological sense are largely based on the subjective condition of an individual as described above, a survey by a trained evaluation group and a large-scale survey by many people are required to improve the accuracy. As a result, training of the evaluation group requires time, or it is difficult to ensure an appropriate number of subjects. Further, although there are methods of evaluating touch by using a keratin film, a compression tester, and the like (patent documents 1 to 3), it is required to search for a cosmetic that not only has a good touch but also gives a satisfactory psychological effect by further objective indexes.

In addition, when a salesperson or a beauty counselor recommends a cosmetic to a customer, the judgment as to which cosmetic is appropriate for the customer is usually made by the salesperson or the beauty counselor in the current situation, and the customer is advised of the cosmetic by subjective judgment. Therefore, subjective factors such as the experience and intuition of the salesperson and the consultant are mixed, and therefore, there is a problem that the difference may be judged according to the skill and the objectivity is poor. Further, if the subjective judgment is based only, cosmetics having a strong skin burden feeling may be recommended to a customer who strongly feels the skin burden feeling, and there is a high possibility that the customer's stress is increased.

Documents of the prior art

Patent document

Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2017-72397

Patent document 2: japanese laid-open patent publication No. 2015-3870

Patent document 3: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2017 and 101063

Non-patent document

Non-patent document 1: loken et al, "Coding of foundry touch by unimyeled activities in humans", NATURE NEUROSCIENCE, Brief communications, public online 12April 2009; doi:10.1038/nn.2312

Non-patent document 2: morrison et al, "Reduced C-derived dense artifacts and engineering for touch", BRAIN A JOURNAL OF NEUROLOGY,2011: 134; 1116-1126, Advance Access publication March 4,2011; doi: 10.1093/mail/awr 011

Non-patent document 3: guest et al, "Sensory and inductive projections of skin reducing inter-and intracellular touch", Acta psychology 130(2009)115 and 126, Available online 6 Decumber 2008; doi:10.1016/j.actpsy.2008.10.007

Non-patent document 4: stone \31402, cosmetic rubbing therapy for new size test, による at the periphery of the bone, rubbing to analyze the bone at とな, making up , Vol.43, No.3, pp.171-176(2009)

Non-patent document 5: kreibig et al, The psychophysiology of mixed empirical states, psychophysiology.2013Aug; 50(8):799-811.

Non-patent document 6: the palace and the like, carry out analysis による of the amplitude value of the pulse wave at the upper end で for the aforementioned ストレス stimulation, and perform a disciplinary algorithm value, a algorithm 40 (6): 540-546,2012

Non-patent document 7: jitian and the like, wherein the fingertip volume resolution を is stimulated by いた perturbation ストレス, an aerator における is used for autonomous navigation value, and the biomedical science 49 (1): 91-99,2011

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

As described above, the touch and psychological effect of cosmetics on the skin vary from person to person, and the evaluation thereof varies greatly depending on the experience, skill, and the like of each evaluator. Therefore, evaluation/screening of cosmetics having a good touch feeling, a low burden feeling, and a satisfactory psychological effect by objective criteria is strongly desired.

Means for solving the problems

The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on cosmetics in order to find objective indices for determining a tactile sensation and a psychological effect that satisfy a user. The present inventors have also conducted intensive studies on cosmetic bases because such cosmetic bases are based on bases in their touch. As a result, it was found that by measuring the rubbing behavior of the base and the cosmetic, it is possible to evaluate and screen the base and the cosmetic having a satisfactory affinity and an excellent pressure-relaxing effect with a low burden feeling.

In particular, it was found that a base and a cosmetic which had low friction overall and exhibited a frictional behavior that temporarily rose and then fell or leveled off were good in sensory evaluation, psychological evaluation, and physiological evaluation as a base and a cosmetic which had low feeling of burden with satisfactory affinity.

The present application provides the following inventions.

(1)

A method for evaluating a pressure-relaxing base or a cosmetic, the method comprising:

a step of measuring the kinetic friction force at the time of application of the test base or cosmetic, and

evaluating the pressure-relaxing effect of the base or cosmetic to be tested on the basis of the measured kinetic friction force,

the kinetic friction force starts to increase in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to increase until a change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and when the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the increase is in the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the base agent or the cosmetic is not applied, the effect of relaxing the pressure is evaluated as being exerted on the test base agent or the cosmetic.

(2)

A method of screening for a stress-mitigating base or cosmetic, the method comprising:

a step of judging the pressure relaxation effect of the base to be tested or the cosmetic from the measured kinetic friction force,

the kinetic friction force starts to rise in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to rise until a change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and when the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the rise is in the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the base agent or the cosmetic is not applied, it is determined that the test base agent or the cosmetic has the effect of relaxing the pressure.

(3)

According to the method described in (1) or (2), when the base or the cosmetic evaluated or judged to have the effect of relieving stress by the above method is applied to the skin, the feeling of substantivity starts to be obtained 20 seconds to 40 seconds after application, and ends at more than 40 seconds and less than 70 seconds.

(4)

According to the method described in any one of (1) to (3), an artificial leather (product No. PBZ13001, manufactured by イデアテックスジャパン K.) having a length of 1cm was attached to a substrate to which the artificial leather was attached²When the test base or cosmetic is applied under a vertical load at a speed of 50 mm/sec.50 gf using the contact for application of the application area of (1), the test base or cosmetic is evaluated to have an effect of relieving pressure when the maximum value of the kinetic friction force is less than 45 gf. In addition to the artificial leather, a coated substrate that is an alternative to skin, that is, a skin-substitute film (sheet) that simulates a furrows and a dune in a predetermined area, such as "SPF MASTER PA 01" manufactured by shin-guard "corporation used for SPF measurement of sunscreen, may be used as the substrate, but the substrate is not limited thereto. In addition to the above-described contact, a finger model that simulates the form and mechanical properties of a human finger, for example, a finger model made of urethane resin, may be used as the contact.

(5)

According to the method of any one of (1) to (4), when the magnitude of the change in the kinetic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is within a range of 40 to 65% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force, the test base or cosmetic is evaluated to have an effect of relieving pressure.

(6)

According to the method of any one of (1) to (5), when the kinetic friction force continues to decrease after the change point has passed, the effect of relaxing the pressure is evaluated as being exerted on the test base or the cosmetic.

(7)

A cosmetic coaching method or recommendation method for supporting cosmetic behavior of a subject, the method comprising:

to strongly feel a feeling of burden on the skin, a composition or a pressure-relaxing cosmetic containing a pressure-relaxing base agent evaluated or judged to have an effect of relaxing pressure by the method described in any one of (1) to (6) is proposed.

(8)

The method of (7), further comprising: a step of measuring the load feeling level of the subject by the frequency of the feeling after washing the face,

the subject who strongly feels the skin feeling of burden is a person judged to have a high level of feeling of burden by the measurement.

(9)

A pressure-relaxing cosmetic characterized in that the kinetic friction force starts to increase within 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to increase until a change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the increase is within a range of 45-70% of the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the cosmetic is not applied.

(10)

The cosmetic according to (9), which comprises, based on the total weight of the cosmetic,

comprises 0.2 to 0.6 wt% of carboxyl polysiloxane; or

Comprises 0.2 to 0.6 weight percent of carboxyl polysiloxane and 0.3 to 4.0 weight percent of polydimethylsiloxane; or

Comprising 0.3 to 0.5% by weight of an ammonium acryloyl dimethyltaurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate crosslinking polymer; or

Comprises 9.0 wt% or more of glycerin and 2-membered glycol in total, 1.0 to 5.0 wt% of EO/PO addition polymer, and 0.1 to 0.2 wt% of xanthan gum; or

Comprises 9.0 wt% or more of glycerin and 2-membered glycol in total, 0.1 wt% or more of EO/PO addition polymer, 0.3 to 0.5 wt% of (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate) crosslinked polymer, and 0.02 to 0.8 wt% of xanthan gum; or

Comprises 9.0 wt% or more of glycerin and 2-membered glycol in total, 0.1 wt% or more of EO/PO addition polymer, 0.2 to 0.6 wt% of carboxyl polysiloxane, 0.3 to 4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.3 to 0.7 wt% of higher alcohol, 0.3 to 2.0 wt% of olefin oligomer, and 0.05 to 2.0 wt% of polyacrylic acid.

(11)

The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), which is an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

(12)

The cosmetic according to (9) or (10), which is a cosmetic water or a cosmetic liquid.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

According to the present invention, the pressure relaxation properties of a base or a cosmetic can be evaluated simply and objectively based on the frictional force. Therefore, the base for producing a cosmetic having high stress relaxation properties can be easily screened regardless of the experience and skill of the staff. In addition, it is possible to reduce variations in judgment by staff and provide guidance at a certain level, and in particular, it is possible to provide a cosmetic that is suitable for customers who strongly feel a feeling of skin burden and has satisfactory non-abrasive feeling and affinity.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the relationship between the frictional feeling and the comfortable feeling. The left panel shows the sandpaper rubbed against the skin on the inner forearm, and the right panel shows the sandpaper rubbed against the skin with fingers.

FIG. 2 shows "comfort", "hobby" and "no stress" when a female feels a feeling of skin load using the base T or the base Q.

Fig. 3 shows the results of multiple regression analysis of the evaluation of "comfort", "hobby" and "no stress" when women who feel a feeling of skin burden used the base T or the base Q and the usability during and after application. The values in the table represent the respective pearson product-moment correlation coefficients between the respective items. Relative to all items of 'hobby', 'no pressure' and 'comfort', items with significant correlation by the significance test of Pearson product moment correlation coefficient (p <0.05) are represented, and X represents no significant correlation item.

Fig. 4 shows the behavior and physiological response of women who feel a feeling of skin burden when applying the base T or the base Q to the face. The left panel shows the time from the start of application of the base T or the base Q to the end of the application operation as the "affinity end time" (second) for the woman who feels the feeling of skin burden. The right graph shows the pulse amplitude change (a.u.: arbitrary units) of 10 seconds from the start of application of the base T or the base Q to the application by the woman who feels the feeling of skin burden.

Fig. 5 shows the relationship between the affinity time of the base and the comfort when the base T or the base Q is applied to the face of a woman who feels a feeling of burden on the skin. The upper panel shows the relationship between the evaluation of comfort and affinity time (seconds). The following graph shows the relationship between the pulse amplitude change (a.u.: arbitrary units) and the affinity start time (seconds) for a subject whose pulse amplitude change is positive.

Fig. 6 shows the results of the principal component analysis of the evaluation results of the feeling of use of each test base with respect to the control base T obtained by the expert in tactile sensation evaluation. The horizontal axis shows the first principal component, and the vertical axis shows the second principal component.

Fig. 7 shows the dynamic friction behavior of each base from the start of application to 250 seconds.

Fig. 8 shows the dynamic friction behavior of each base from the start of application to 600 seconds.

Fig. 9 is a graph showing the relationship between the principal component analysis result of fig. 6 and the dynamic friction behavior of each base. The frictional behavior shown for each base in the figure is reduced for each base in the dynamic frictional behavior of fig. 8, and the XY axes of the figures are the same as those of fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is a table summarizing the characteristics of the dynamic friction behavior of each base agent (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water) and the evaluation results of each base agent obtained from the load feeling classes a and B after 3 days of use.

Detailed Description

In the present specification, the skin feeling of burden means an unpleasant feeling that a user physically feels when applying a cosmetic or a base thereof to the skin. Examples of the feeling of irritation such as "tingling/hot/prickling/contracting", "tightening", "pain", "fever/heat", "itching/itching", feeling such as dryness and pain, feeling of pressure such as sliminess/stickiness, and feeling of friction such as rubbing may be included, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

In the present specification, the subject who strongly feels the skin burden feeling means a person who feels the skin burden feeling with a high degree and frequency. For example, the person may be classified as class a or class B according to the level of the feeling of burden described in the examples. Further, the present inventors have found that the level of the feeling of burden is well matched with the consciousness of the sensitive skin, and thus the person can feel the sensitive skin. Further, for example, a person may be a person who consciously or unconsciously feels a skin burden feeling by various factors such as season, weather, physical condition, and psychological state, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

In the present specification, the pressure refers to the pressure that a user feels when applying a cosmetic such as a lotion, an emulsion, a beauty lotion, or a base thereof to the skin. For example, it refers to an involuntary or conscious feeling of discomfort caused by applying a cosmetic or base agent having a strong feeling of burden to the skin. The perceived annoyance can be evaluated by sensory evaluation or the like. However, although there is no awareness that the cosmetic or base is used for stress, it may be felt unconsciously. Pressure in this specification also encompasses such involuntary discomfort. The feeling of unconsciousness can be evaluated by autonomic nerve indicators such as pulse amplitude, pulse, and heartbeat. For example, it has been reported that the pulse amplitude changes by various sensory stimuli and increases in response to a sense of comfort such as music, fragrance, and images, but on the contrary, the pulse amplitude decreases if pressure is felt (non-patent documents 5 to 7), and therefore, the pulse amplitude can be measured and used as an index of pressure.

On the other hand, as described above, it has been reported that if a cosmetic good in touch feeling is used and the cosmetic is in contact with the skin, the skin feels comfortable and the psychological effect is good (non-patent document 3). Such a feeling of comfort may be felt consciously or unconsciously, as in the case of unpleasant feeling, and can be evaluated by subjective psychological evaluation, autonomic indicators such as pulse amplitude, and the like. Further, if the skin feels comfortable, daily use of the cosmetic is sometimes fun, or the mood is improved, or a happy mood after use is also sustained or changed to a fresh mood.

Therefore, in the present specification, the stress relaxation includes not only the effect of alleviating the unpleasant feeling as described above but also the positive psychological effect of increasing the attention during and after use, including the effect of making the skin feel comfortable by using cosmetics or bases, thereby making the mood smooth, the mood happy, the full-bodied mood, and the positive mood.

In the present specification, the frictional force refers to the frictional force when the base or the cosmetic is applied. The friction force includes a dynamic friction force and a static friction force, and can be measured by a commercially available friction measuring instrument or the like. In certain embodiments, the friction force is also sometimes referred to as kinetic friction force. Here, it is reported that the smoother the touch of the cosmetic is, the better the comfort is (non-patent document 3). The inventors of the present invention showed that the frictional feeling and the comfortable feeling have a negative correlation (example experiment 1). However, no pressure-relaxing base or cosmetic is known which has a good tactile sensation to the skin, a small feeling of burden on the skin, and a comfortable feeling when the frictional force of the base or cosmetic indicates a certain strength and a certain time period indicates a certain behavior. Therefore, the present inventors investigated the correspondence between the rubbing behavior of the base or cosmetic and the sensory, psychological and physiological effects felt by the subject during/after application.

As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors, it has been found that a base or cosmetic showing a rubbing behavior of low friction as a whole, temporarily increasing and then decreasing or smoothing is highly evaluated as a pressure-relaxing base or cosmetic having satisfactory affinity feeling and low skin load feeling. Therefore, the present invention is based on a novel finding that the pressure-reducing property of a base or a cosmetic to the skin can be measured by the behavior of frictional force.

Accordingly, the present application provides a method for evaluating and screening a stress relaxation base or a cosmetic, comprising: and evaluating the pressure relaxation property by using the measured value of the dynamic friction force of the test base or the cosmetic as an index.

With respect to the evaluation, a base or cosmetic having a pattern in which the kinetic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is low as a whole, rises temporarily and then falls or is flat may be evaluated as having an effect of relaxing the pressure.

The low dynamic friction of the base or cosmetic to be examined as a whole may be a case where the maximum value of the dynamic friction of the base or cosmetic to be examined is lower than the maximum value of the dynamic friction when the base or cosmetic is not applied, and may be, for example, less than 10%, less than 20%, less than 30%, less than 40%, less than 50%, less than 60%, less than 70%, less than 80%, or less than 90%, or may be in a certain range, for example, in a range of 20 to 90%, 25 to 85%, 30 to 80%, 35 to 75%, 40 to 75%, or 45 to 70%.

The maximum value of the kinetic friction force may be a value that shows the maximum value from 250 seconds after the start of measurement. Here, although the kinetic friction force may increase after decreasing immediately after the start of measurement by the base agent or the cosmetic, the maximum value of the kinetic friction force does not mean the value at the start of measurement or immediately after measurement, but means the value that shows the maximum value from the start of increase after decreasing to 250 seconds after the start of measurement.

The low dynamic friction is obtained by mounting artificial leather such as PBZ13001 manufactured by イデアテックスジャパン corporation on a smooth substrate to which artificial leather generally used for bags, seat sheets and the like is attached by using a friction measuring device such as トライボマスター TL201Ts (トリニティラボ Co., Ltd.) and the like is applied1cm of²Probes with a spreading area, i.e. having 1cm²When a base or a cosmetic is applied to a contact member for applying an area, under a vertical load at a speed of 50 mm/sec.50 gf, the kinetic friction force including the maximum value is less than 55gf, 50gf, 45gf, or 40gf, and the maximum value of the kinetic friction force may be in a predetermined range, for example, in a range of 20gf to 50gf, 20gf to 45gf, 25gf to 50gf, 25gf to 45gf, 30gf to 50gf, or 30 to 45 gf. Here, although the kinetic friction force may decrease and then increase at the start of measurement and immediately after the start of measurement, for example, from 0 to about 5 seconds, 0 to about 6 seconds, 0 to about 7 seconds, 0 to about 8 seconds, 0 to about 9 seconds, and 0 to about 10 seconds after the start of measurement, the term "kinetic friction force is low as a whole" may not include the values at the start of measurement and immediately after the start of measurement. The friction measuring instrument, the artificial leather, the substrate, the contact, and the like are not limited to these. For example, in addition to the artificial leather, a coating substrate that is an alternative to skin, that is, a skin-substitute film (sheet) that simulates a furrows and a dune in a predetermined area, such as "SPF MASTER PA 01" manufactured by shin guard SPF measurement, manufactured by sukko corporation, may be used as the substrate, but the substrate is not limited thereto. In addition to the above-described contact, a finger model that simulates the form and mechanical properties of a human finger, for example, a finger model made of urethane resin, may be used as the contact.

The pattern in which the kinetic friction force of the test base or cosmetic temporarily increases and then decreases or levels off means the gradient of the kinetic friction force, that is, the value obtained by differentiating the kinetic friction force with time until the point of change becomes a positive value, and after exceeding the point of change becomes a negative value, or becomes zero or stays at a low value, and the kinetic friction force after the point of change decreases or becomes a standstill state. Here, the change point is a time point at which the slope of the kinetic friction force (time derivative of the kinetic friction force) after the kinetic friction force has temporarily increased is greatly decreased, and is not a time point at which the friction force is decreased and then increased at the start of the measurement or immediately after the start of the measurement.

The kinetic friction of the test base or cosmetic is preferably increased after the start of measurement, and the time for starting the increase is preferably less than, for example, 10 seconds, 15 seconds, 20 seconds, 25 seconds, 30 seconds, 35 seconds, 40 seconds, 45 seconds, or 50 seconds after the start of measurement. Further, the kinetic friction force is preferably after the start of the rise, for example, continuously rising up to the changing point. The change point is preferably within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. Examples of such a preferable change point include within 100 seconds, within 105 seconds, within 110 seconds, within 115 seconds, within 120 seconds, within 125 seconds, within 130 seconds, within 135 seconds, within 140 seconds, within 145 seconds, and within 150 seconds after the start of measurement.

Further, it is sometimes preferable that the kinetic friction of the test base or cosmetic is temporarily increased and then decreased. It is also sometimes preferable that the kinetic friction of the test base or cosmetic is temporarily increased and then stabilized.

Further, the variation of the dynamic friction force is preferably within an appropriate range. For example, the minimum value of the kinetic friction force may be preferably in the range of 15 to 75%, 20 to 70%, 25 to 70%, 30 to 70%, 35 to 65%, 35 to 60% of the maximum value. In addition, the variation of the maximum value of the kinetic friction force (difference between the maximum value and the minimum value) may be preferably in the range of 15 to 75%, 20 to 70%, 25 to 70%, 30 to 70%, 35 to 65%, 40 to 65%. Further, for example, it may be preferable to pass 1cm of an artificial leather such as PBZ13001 manufactured by イデアテックスジャパン corporation, which is generally used for bags, seat sheets, etc., on a smooth substrate on which the artificial leather is mounted by using a friction measuring instrument such as トライボマスター TL201Ts (manufactured by トリニティラボ) and to pass the artificial leather on the smooth substrate²A probe having an area of 1cm²When the base agent or the cosmetic is applied to the contact member for applying on an application area under a vertical load at a speed of 50 mm/sec.50 gf, the difference between the minimum value and the maximum value of the kinetic friction force is in the range of 5gf to 50gf, 10gf to 45gf, or 15gf to 45 gf. The friction measuring instrument, the artificial leather, the substrate, the contact, and the like are the same as described above, but are not limited thereto. The minimum value and the magnitude of change of the kinetic friction force may be values from 250 seconds after the start of measurement, and may be values immediately after the start of measurement, as defined in the maximum valueWhen the frictional force increases after decreasing, the value may be increased from after decreasing to 250 seconds after starting measurement, instead of the value at the start of measurement or immediately after measurement.

Further, it is preferable that the frictional behavior as described above also takes into consideration the possibility that "affinity" relating to not only the load feeling but also the frictional force is reported (non-patent document 4). This is probably because if the kinetic friction force rises and the feeling of change is felt, the feeling of affinity is generated, the feeling of comfort is felt, and then if the friction force is slightly low, the psychological state after application is favorably influenced.

The feeling of substantivity means the feeling of penetration of a base or a cosmetic into the skin. The affinity may be measured by sensory evaluation by an expert in tactile evaluation who has been specifically trained. Although it is reported that the affinity is related to the frictional force, it is not known what relationship the affinity has with the relaxation of the pressure. However, the present inventors found that when the skin-care product is applied to the skin, the feeling of affinity is a pressure if the feeling of affinity is slow, whereas the feeling of affinity is fast, which is related to the comfort and pressure relaxation. In particular, it was found that the pressure-relaxing effect was high when the affinity started 20 seconds or more and less than 40 seconds after the application and the affinity ended 40 seconds or more and less than 70 seconds.

Here, "affinity start" means that the subject starts to feel affinity after applying the base or cosmetic to the skin, and for example, the time of affinity start can be measured by measuring the time from the time of application start to the time when the subject declares "affinity start". The term "affinity completion" means that the subject feels the affinity feeling after applying the base or cosmetic to the skin, and the time of affinity completion can be measured by, for example, measuring the time of completion of the application operation by the subject.

The time for starting the affinity may be preferably 20 seconds to 40 seconds after the application, 35 seconds or less and 30 seconds or less after the application, for example. The time for completion of affinity may be preferably more than 40 seconds and less than 70 seconds after application, or 65 seconds or less and 60 seconds or less after application.

The base is a base material prepared according to the skin touch and the use feeling of the cosmetic. Examples of the base include, but are not limited to, aqueous bases, silicone soap-based bases, oily bases, and emulsifying bases. Examples of the cosmetic include a cosmetic liquid, an emulsion, a lotion, a cream, and the like. The base and cosmetic may be in the form of liquid, emulsion, paste, spray, foam, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or the like, but is not limited thereto.

The present invention also provides a pressure-relaxing base or a pressure-relaxing cosmetic evaluated or judged to have an effect of relaxing pressure by the method of the present invention. For example, the present invention provides a pressure-relaxing cosmetic characterized in that the kinetic friction force starts to increase in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to increase until a change point occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the increase is in the range of 45 to 70% relative to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the base or cosmetic is not applied.

Furthermore, the present invention provides a cosmetic coaching method or recommendation method for supporting cosmetic behavior of a subject, the method comprising: a composition or a pressure-relaxing cosmetic containing a pressure-relaxing base evaluated or judged to have an effect of relaxing pressure is proposed to a subject who strongly feels a feeling of burden on the skin. The method according to the present application is used for cosmetic purposes, and sometimes excludes medical practice performed by physicians and medical practitioners.

Further, as the composition of the base agent or the cosmetic showing preferable frictional behavior as described above, it is considered that the amount of components such as glycerin, a dihydric glycol, an EO/PO addition polymer, a carboxyl polysiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, a higher alcohol, an olefin oligomer, polyacrylic acid, a crosslinked polymer, and xanthan gum, typically, has an influence. For example, preferred examples of the base agent and the cosmetic include compositions 1 to 3 shown in table 1 below. In addition, the base or cosmetic containing 0.2 to 0.6 wt% of carboxyl polysiloxane and 0.3 to 4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, or the base or cosmetic containing 0.3 to 0.5 wt% of (acryloyl dimethyl taurate/behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate) cross-linked polymer is also preferable in some cases, relative to the total weight of the base or cosmetic components. However, the composition is not limited to such a composition, and is within the scope of the base or cosmetic of the present invention as long as it shows the above-described preferable frictional behavior.

TABLE 1

The base and the cosmetic of the present invention may be used in combination with any additives as required, as long as the frictional behavior is within the range of the present invention. As the additive, known additives such as a coloring agent, a preservative, a binder, a disintegrating agent, a stabilizer, an antioxidant, a surfactant, a pH adjuster, an oil component, water, an alcohol, a chelating agent, a perfume, various medicinal components, a preservative, and a neutralizing agent can be appropriately selected and used.

Examples

The present invention will be described in further detail by examples. The present invention is not limited to this.

Experiment 1: relationship between frictional feeling and comfort

It is reported that the smoother the cosmetic is, the higher the comfort is, and it is suggested that the frictional feeling is related to the comfort (non-patent document 3). Therefore, the relationship between the frictional feeling and the comfortable feeling was examined. The subjects were 16 women who felt the sensation of skin burden, that is, 16 adult women who felt any of "tingling/hot/pricked/shrinkling", "tightening", "pain", "fever/hot", "itching/itching" after washing their face and had healthy skin equivalent to the sensation of burden level a or B described in experiment 5-1 below. Each subject rubbed 3 kinds of sandpaper (specification; A, B, C) with different roughness produced by 3M corporation on the skin or fingers of the inner part of his/her forearm, and evaluated the subjective levels of "feel of friction" and "comfort" by VAS.

The results are shown in fig. 1. Fig. 1 shows that the frictional feeling and the comfortable feeling have a negative correlation. That is, it is shown that the higher both the skin and the fingers are rubbed, the more uncomfortable, which is consistent with the report of non-patent document 3. Therefore, in the following experiments, the correspondence between mood and rubbing behavior during/after application of the base agent was examined by the following sensory evaluation, psychological evaluation, physiological evaluation, and physical property evaluation.

Experiment 2: sensory evaluation (definition of orientation of Low-load base and high-load base)

The above-described feeling of skin load was performed by the women (16 women). A base T or a base Q having the composition shown in Table 3 was used. These subjects applied the base T or the base Q to the face with fingers after washing the face, and evaluated the items described in table 2 below regarding "comfort", "hobby", "no pressure", and usability during and after application by 7-stage evaluation. Further, the objective variables were "comfort", "hobby" and "no pressure", and multiple regression analysis was performed by the following multiple regression equation (formula 1) using the explanatory variables described in table 2.

TABLE 2

Target variables: no stress, comfort, or hobby

Explanatory variables: usability evaluation (after, or overall application)

The results are shown in fig. 2. "comfort", "hobby" and "no stress" are predominantly higher when the base T is used than when the base Q is used (Brunner-munzei test). In addition, in the multiple regression analysis of fig. 3, "comfort", "hobby", "no pressure" were significantly correlated with "slippery feeling" and "light stretch" associated with friction. "comfort", "hobby", "no pressure" and "fast affinity" have a positive correlation, and "fast affinity" and a negative correlation (Pearson product moment correlation coefficient between items is shown in the table of FIG. 3. the symbol X in the table indicates a significant correlation that the value of p is not less than 0.05. the significance of Pearson product moment correlation coefficient is examined by analysis of トライフィールズ).

Experiment 3: physiological evaluation

In addition, the subject under the same conditions as in

experiments

1 and 2 was also measured for the pulse amplitude 10 seconds after the application of the base T or the base Q to the face was started. As described above, the pulse amplitude change can be used as an index of the autonomic nervous system that can measure the physiological comfort that is not felt by conscious but is felt physiologically by unconscious. Higher pulse amplitude changes indicate more physiological comfort. The pulse amplitude change is measured as follows: a photoelectric sensor is attached to an earlobe, and the vertical amplitude of a waveform obtained by measuring transmitted light with respect to hemoglobin by a measuring method described in non-patent document 7 is measured as the difference between the pulse amplitude during application and the pulse amplitude during rest before application. The time of the affinity is measured by taking the time when the subject starts to paint on the face as the paint start time, the time from the paint start time to the time when the subject declares "affinity has started" as the "start time of the affinity", and the time until the subject ends the painting operation as the "end time of the affinity". In addition, 7-stage evaluation was performed on the feeling of "comfort" with respect to the base T or the base Q in the subject, and the relationship between the evaluation of comfort and affinity time was examined. Further, the affinity start time of a subject whose pulse amplitude changes to be positive, i.e., physiologically comfortable unconsciously, was examined.

The results are shown in fig. 4 and 5. As is clear from fig. 4, when the base agent T was used, the pulse amplitude change compared with that before application was significantly higher than that when the base agent Q was used, and the feeling of comfort was physiologically felt even without consciousness. It was found that the end time of the affinity feeling when the base agent Q was used was 70 seconds, but when the base agent T was used was 60 seconds, it was more comfortable when the end time of the affinity feeling was somewhat faster. As can be seen from fig. 5, the time for the affinity is fast, and specifically, it is particularly comfortable when the affinity starts for about 20 seconds to about 40 seconds and the affinity ends for more than about 40 seconds and less than about 70 seconds.

As a result of the sensory evaluation of experiment 2 and the physiological evaluation of experiment 3, it was found that the base T was a base which was subjectively evaluated to have good "comfort", "hobby" and "no stress", and further felt comfortable even without consciousness, and had a low feeling of burden on the skin. On the other hand, it is found that the base Q is a base having a low skin load feeling and being evaluated as described above. Therefore, the following experiment was performed with the base T defined as a low-load base and the base Q defined as a high-load base.

Experiment 4: evaluation of physical Properties

Next, in order to visualize appropriate regions of the physical properties of the base giving such satisfactory comfort, non-stress, skin-burdened feeling, physiological state, and affinity time, the physical properties of each base were evaluated by the following methods.

Experiment 4-1: evaluation of base by tactile evaluation expert

Evaluation of feel during use of cosmetics was performed by 10 women who were well-trained experts in evaluation of feel, using about 20 kinds of test bases having the compositions shown in table 3. That is, the control base T, which was found to be a comfortable base in both the subjective sensory evaluation of experiment 2 and the physiological evaluation of experiment 3 by the subject with a sense of burden, and the test base were applied to half faces, and the use feeling of the test base was evaluated as the relative evaluation of the test base with the base T set to 0 in each item described in table 4 below with reference to the control base T, and the evaluation was carried out at 7 stages by numerical values of-3, -2, -1, 0, +1, +2, and + 3.

TABLE 4

As a result, the base L, R, S, J was obtained as a base having high values of "good taste", "comfortable feeling", "quick affinity", and "penetrating feeling", with a good balance between the feeling of no load on the skin and no pressure, such as "light spreading", "no roughness", "no feeling of being felt by the skin", and "no greasiness", and the feeling of being felt with a wet feeling, such as "smooth feeling" and "soft feeling". On the other hand, the base Q has low values of "taste", "comfort", "quick affinity". Further, the evaluation results obtained in the above experiments were analyzed by principal component analysis using software of SIMCA (manufactured by Umetrics). The results of the principal component analysis are shown in fig. 6. In particular, it was found that a base agent having a high evaluation such as the base agent T and the base agent L, R, S, J is positioned in the vicinity of a region surrounded by a quadrangle in fig. 6 (this region is referred to as an "appropriate region"). The base in the appropriate region has high values of the above-described evaluation items concerning touch and "taste", "comfort", and "quick affinity", and tends to be higher as the base in the vicinity of the appropriate region is closer. On the other hand, the base agent Q having a low evaluation tends to be located outside the appropriate region, and the evaluation tends to be lower as the other base agents are farther from the appropriate region.

Experiment 4-2: rub-on behavior of the base

In order to examine what physical properties the base had in the appropriate region as seen in experiment 4-1, the smearing and rubbing behavior was measured for the base (T, L, R, S, J) which was evaluated well, the base (Q) which was evaluated unsatisfactorily, and water. The measurement was carried out by measuring the following kinetic friction force: using トライボマスター TL201Ts (manufactured by トリニティラボ), an artificial leather having an area of 1X 1cm was mounted on a smooth substrate having an artificial leather (product No. PBZ13001 manufactured by イデアテックスジャパン K.) mounted thereon, the same as described above²A contact piece (probe) for applying an application area was applied at an application amount of 1. mu.l/cm under a condition of an application distance of 5cm, an application speed of 5cm/sec and a vertical load of 50gf²The test base of (2) was applied back and forth for 10 minutes.

The results are shown in fig. 7, 8 and 9. As seen in these figures, the kinetic friction force of the base T, L, R, S, J started to rise in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement, and continued to rise until the point of change occurred within 150 seconds after the start of measurement. The maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the rise of the base T, L, R, S, J is in the range of about 30gf to 42 gf. On the other hand, water and the base agent Q do not exhibit such dynamic friction behavior, and continuously increase even after 150 seconds from the start of measurement. Further, the maximum frictional force of the substrate, water and the base agent Q is about 60gf to 62gf, which is higher than the maximum frictional force of the base agent T, L, R, S, J. The frictional behavior is shown as a numerical value in fig. 10. It is found that the frictional force at the change point of the good base T, L, R, S, J, i.e., the maximum frictional force (about 30gf to 42gf) is in the range of about 45(≈ 30gf/62gf × 100) to 70% (≈ 42gf/62gf × 100) relative to the maximum frictional force (about 62gf) only on the substrate.

Further, it was found that the variation of the dynamic friction force of the base material which was evaluated well was within a certain range. For example, the base J having the largest variation among the base J having good evaluation is about 15gf and about 42gf in minimum value, and the variation with respect to the maximum value is about 65% (64.2% (42gf-15gf)/42gf × 100), the base S having the smallest variation is about 18gf and about 30gf in maximum value, and the variation with respect to the maximum value is about 40% (to (30gf-18gf)/30gf × 100). That is, the magnitude of the change in the kinetic friction force of the base material with respect to the maximum value is in the range of about 40 to 65%. On the other hand, the kinetic friction force in the case of only the substrate does not vary much, and the minimum value thereof is about 45gf, the maximum value thereof is about 62gf, the minimum value thereof exceeds 70% with respect to the maximum value, and the variation in magnitude with respect to the maximum value is less than 30% (27.4% approximately (62gf-45gf)/62gf × 100). On the other hand, unsatisfactory base Q was evaluated to have a large variation in dynamic friction, the minimum value was about 18gf, the maximum value was about 62gf, the minimum value was less than 30% with respect to the maximum value, and the variation in the maximum value was more than 70% (71.0% of the value of about equal to (62gf-18gf/62gf) × 100). From the above results, it is found that the dynamic friction force of the base and cosmetic with a low feeling of burden preferably varies within an appropriate range, and neither excessively large variation nor excessively small variation is preferable.

Experiment 5: psychological assessment

It is suggested from experiment 4 that a base agent showing a frictional behavior of low overall friction, temporarily rising and then falling or being smooth is highly effective as a stress relaxation agent. Therefore, psychological effects were verified when the base agents were used in combination for subjects who felt a feeling of skin burden.

Experiment 5-1: selection of subjects who feel a feeling of burden on the skin

The "feeling of burden level" is determined based on the following criteria. Among adult women who feel any of "tingling/hot/pricked/shrinkling", "tightening", "pain", "fever/sensation", "itching/itching" after washing the face and have healthy skin, persons who feel the above-described sensations "every time" or "frequently" after washing the face are set as class a (frequently felt group); the persons who "occasionally" or "rarely" feel the above-described feelings are set as class B (group of occasional feelings); the "imperceptible" person is set to level C (imperceptible group).

Experiment 5-2: evaluation of pressure relaxation Effect by combination

The burden sensation levels selected based on experiment 5-1, namely, 60A-group and 60B-group, were used as the subjects to be investigated. The subjects used test bases (T, L, R, S, J, Q, water) for 3 days in a combined manner on the whole face, and evaluated the preference, non-stress, and comfort after 3 days in a combined manner on 7 stages.

The results are shown in fig. 10. Among the base agents preferred to be over a half, the base agent particularly high in evaluation (over a half of the first two stages in 7 stages) was shown as excellent, and the base agent high in evaluation (over a half of the first three stages in 7 stages) was shown as good. The evaluation of "no pressure" and "comfort" are also shown in the same manner. The psychological care effect of the test base was evaluated as follows. The items "mood was positive", "mood was smooth", "mood was comfortable", "self-maintained" and "mental" were evaluated in 5 stages before application of the test base and after 3 days of continuous use of the test base. Regarding the difference between the evaluation value after the test base is used continuously for 3 days and the evaluation value before the test base is applied, that is, the degree of increase, the base having an average value of the degrees of increase of these items of 0.5 or more is shown as excellent, and the base having an evaluation of 0 to less than 0.5 is shown as excellent.

It was found that subjects with a high level of feeling of burden had a preference for a base agent showing a frictional behavior of low overall friction, rising temporarily and then falling or being smooth, and evaluated as a base agent having no stress and being comfortable. Further, psychological questionnaires before and after 3 days of continuous use revealed that these base agents bring psychological effects such as "mood is positive", "mood is smooth", "mood is relaxed", "self-cares is maintained", and "mental changes". On the other hand, it is also known that the base (Q) and water having a high friction as a whole do not have such an effect, and that the base feels stressed by smearing.

Further, it is found that the base (T, J) whose frictional force temporarily increases and then decreases is evaluated as more comfortable as the level of the feeling of burden is higher than that of the base (R, L), and that the preference and the pressure relaxation property are also higher. The higher the level of load sensation, the more noticeable this tendency was visible (data not shown). This is considered to be related to when the friction force is high at all times, and the skin is burdened, but on the other hand, if the friction force rises slowly and changes too little, the skin feels a little defective. Therefore, it is also known that it is more preferable to provide a base agent in which the frictional force temporarily increases and then decreases to a subject with a high level of load feeling.

From the above results, it is clear that the base evaluated or screened by the method of the present invention has a low skin load, is comfortable, has high palatability, has a short time between the start and end of affinity, and has a high stress relaxation effect. Further, it is also known that the pressure-relaxing effect of these bases involves application and after application.

Industrial applicability

The present invention can easily and objectively evaluate the feeling of skin burden by using the kinetic friction of a base or a cosmetic as an index. In addition, according to such a method, an appropriate cosmetic can be provided to a subject having a high skin load feeling. In addition, by using the kinetic friction force of the base agent or the cosmetic as an index, it is possible to easily perform screening for searching for a base agent or a cosmetic having a low skin burden feeling.

Claims

1. A method for evaluating a stress-relaxing base or a cosmetic, the method comprising:

a step of evaluating the pressure relaxation effect of the base to be examined or the cosmetic from the measured kinetic friction force,

the kinetic friction force starts to rise in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to rise until a change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and when the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the rise is in the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the base or cosmetic is not applied, the base or cosmetic to be examined is evaluated to have the effect of relaxing the pressure.

2. A method of screening for a stress mitigating base or cosmetic, the method comprising:

a step of judging the pressure relaxation effect of the base to be examined or the cosmetic from the measured kinetic friction force,

the kinetic friction force starts to rise in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to rise until a change point occurring within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and when the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the rise is in the range of 45 to 70% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the base agent or the cosmetic is not applied, it is determined that the test base agent or the cosmetic has the effect of relieving the pressure.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein when the base or the cosmetic evaluated or judged to have the effect of relieving stress by the method is applied to the skin, the feeling of substantivity starts to be obtained 20 seconds to 40 seconds after application, and ends at more than 40 seconds and less than 70 seconds.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the effect of relaxing the pressure is evaluated in the case where the magnitude of the change in the kinetic friction force of the test base or cosmetic is in the range of 40 to 65% with respect to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force.

5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the effect of relaxing the pressure is evaluated as the test base or cosmetic in the case where the kinetic friction force continues to decrease after the point of change has passed.

6. A cosmetic coaching method or recommendation method to support cosmetic behavior of a subject, the method comprising:

a step of proposing a composition or a pressure-relaxing cosmetic containing a pressure-relaxing base agent which is evaluated or judged to have an effect of relaxing pressure by the method according to at least any one of claims 1 to 5, to a subject who strongly feels a feeling of burden on the skin.

7. The method of claim 6, further comprising: a step of measuring the load feeling level of the subject by the frequency of the feeling after washing the face,

the subject who strongly feels the skin burden sensation is a person judged to have a high level of the burden sensation by the measurement.

8. A pressure-relaxing cosmetic characterized in that the kinetic friction force starts to increase in less than 30 seconds after the start of measurement and continues to increase until a change point occurs within 150 seconds after the start of measurement, and the maximum value of the kinetic friction force after the start of the increase is in the range of 45 to 70% relative to the maximum value of the kinetic friction force when the cosmetic is not applied.

9. The cosmetic according to claim 8, wherein the cosmetic is a cosmetic for cosmetic use,

comprises 0.2 to 0.6 wt% of carboxyl polysiloxane; or

10. The cosmetic according to claim 8 or 9, which is an oil-in-water emulsion composition.

11. The cosmetic according to claim 8 or 9, which is a cosmetic water or a cosmetic liquid.