JP2012172266A - Light-weight suit fabric comprising long-short composite spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a high-performance, durable suit fabric, which is light in weight and excellent in durability, and in which the occurrence of pilling is extremely suppressed.SOLUTION: A high-performance suit fabric comprising long-short composite spun yarns is obtained by using, at least in part thereof, a yarn made by aligning and twisting together a plurality of long-short composite spun yarns each comprising a synthetic fiber multifilament and short fibers uniformly mixed with each other. The suit fabric is excellent in abrasion resistance and is extremely reduced in the occurrence of pilling while being light in weight and retaining an excellent feeling and softness.

Description

  The present invention at least partially comprises twin yarns or triplet yarns obtained by drawing and twisting long and short composite spun yarns obtained by superimposing twisted short fiber bundles and opened synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and twisting them together. The present invention relates to a suit fabric that is used, and relates to a high-performance suit fabric that has excellent wear resistance and extremely little pilling while maintaining good texture and softness.

  Conventionally, as a means for enhancing the durability of a fabric while taking advantage of the characteristics of natural fibers, a method of combining synthetic fiber filaments with natural fibers (for example, see Patent Document 1) or a method of blending synthetic fiber staples with natural fibers ( For example, see Patent Document 2). In addition, a technique relating to a woven fabric including at least part of a yarn obtained by twisting two or more long and short composite spun yarns together is disclosed (for example, see Patent Document 3).

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-226938 JP 2001-11749 A JP 2008-7883 A

  Long and short composite spun yarns composed of natural fibers and synthetic fiber staples and synthetic fiber multifilaments are widely used for jerseys and textiles because of their excellent durability and light weight. In particular, long and short composite spun yarns made of wool and synthetic fiber multifilaments are generally finely twisted and strongly twisted. By using strong twists, a fabric with improved breathability and excellent wear durability can be obtained. Therefore, it is used favorably for suits and formal wear for spring and summer. Also, in the weaving process of woolen fabric, pasteless weaving is generally used, and it is common to weave the twisted yarn of the worsted yarn and various filaments without increasing the number of twists and to weave it as a strongly twisted yarn.

  Therefore, long and short composite spun yarns and woven fabrics using various twisted yarns of various eyelash yarns and various filaments are suitable for spring and summer materials because they are lightweight and have excellent pilling suppression and wear resistance. Since softness cannot be obtained, it is rarely used as an autumn / winter material in the suit field.

  Furthermore, blending synthetic fiber staples with natural fiber materials is not only used in the cotton spinning field, but also in the wool spinning field, that is, in the wide range of the woolen spinning and woolen spinning fields. It is implemented for the purpose of down. In particular, fabrics using blended yarns of wool and polyester fibers are widely used because of high durability.

  However, fabrics made from blended yarns are effective to some extent in terms of improving wear resistance during use, but pilling tends to occur when durability is increased, and durability tends to decrease when pilling is suppressed. It was difficult to satisfy both of these characteristics at the same time.

However, in the suit field, there is a strong demand for lightweight and soft fabrics in addition to pilling suppression and wear resistance. The present inventors have developed a technique for achieving a woven fabric that simultaneously satisfies these required performances by using, as at least a part, a yarn obtained by twisting two or more long and short composite spun yarns. The characteristics of this technology development, that is, we have found that long and short composite yarns are spun and twisted without being strongly twisted like conventional products, and by using this yarn, the occurrence of pilling is suppressed and the wear durability is increased. Is.

  The present invention has been achieved as a result of intensive studies on the background of such circumstances, and is a woven fabric that suppresses the occurrence of pilling and is excellent in wear durability, and is lightweight, soft, and durable. The purpose is to provide a woven fabric.

  Means for solving the above-mentioned problems, that is, the configuration of the present invention is as follows: (1) At least a yarn obtained by aligning and twisting a plurality of long and short composite spun yarns in which a synthetic fiber multifilament and a short fiber are uniformly mixed is aligned. A lightweight, long and short composite spun yarn fabric for a suit, characterized in that it is a fabric used for a part.

The uniform mixing means (1) is preferably electrospreading mixing.

It is desirable that the twist coefficient of the single yarn before the twisting of the long and short composite spun yarn constituting the woven fabric of (1) is 40 to 100.

The fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn forming the long and short composite spun yarn of (1) is preferably 11 to 110 dtex.

The fabric weight of the above (1) is desirably in the range of 120 to 200 g / cm ² .

The woven fabric of (1) is preferably in the range of 48.0 to 85.0 as the value of the cover factor (CF) defined by the following formula.
CF = CF (warp) + CF (weft)
CF (warp) = Warp density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wrist count)
CF (weft) = Weft density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wool count)

The fabric (1) preferably has a fabric frictional strength (times) determined by the Martindale method of 23,000 or more and a fabric pilling series of 4 or more simultaneously.

The suit woven fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric using at least a portion of a yarn obtained by arranging two or three long and short composite spun yarns in which synthetic fiber multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed and twisted.
While maintaining good texture and softness, it is possible to obtain a high-performance suit fabric that is excellent in abrasion resistance and at the same time has very little pilling.

It is the schematic of the manufacturing apparatus of the long and short composite spun yarn used for the textile fabric for suits of this invention.

  The suit according to the present invention refers to a set of upper and lower clothes made of co-fabric. In the case of boys, it is generally a suit that is mainly used as a business suit. In the case of girls, a set of jackets and skirts (sometimes slacks) made of co-fabrics, such as waistcoats.

  The long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention is preferably a long and short composite spun yarn in which synthetic fiber multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed in order to secure the texture of the suit fabric. As a method of uniformly mixing the synthetic fiber multifilament and the short fiber, an electric fiber opening method or a scraping method can be adopted. However, in order to maintain a stable fiber opening state, the short fiber and the synthetic fiber multifilament are uniformly mixed. The electrospreading method is particularly preferable in order to realize the ideal state.

  The synthetic fiber multifilament for forming the long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention is preferably a polyester multifilament, and typically includes polyethylene terephthalate multifilament, polytrimethylene terephthalate multifilament, and polybutylene terephthalate multifilament. Can be mentioned. Here, when the synthetic fiber is a polyamide fiber, there is a problem that heat resistance is lowered, and there is a tendency to cause shrinkage of the fabric in the fabric arranging process, the process of thermally bonding the interlining, or the pressing process.

  The fineness (decitex) of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn forming the long and short composite spun yarn used in the suit fabric of the present invention is 11 to 110 dtex, preferably 17 to 84 dtex, and particularly 22 to 56 dtex. Here, when the fineness of the multifilament yarn exceeds 110 dtex, it is not preferable because the original texture of the short fiber tends to be impaired. On the other hand, if it is less than 11 decitex, the harmony with short fibers is affected, which is not preferable.

  The single yarn fineness (decitex) of the synthetic fiber multifilament is preferably 0.1 to 6.6 decitex, and more preferably 1.1 to 2.8 decitex. If the single filament fineness of the multifilament is less than 0.1 dtex, the waist becomes weak when it is made into a suit fabric, while if it exceeds 6.6 dtex, a stiff feeling occurs. Therefore, it is not preferable.

  The short fiber forming the long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention shall be at least one fiber selected from wool, cotton, silk, hemp, polyester synthetic fiber staple, rayon staple, acetate staple and the like. Is desirable.

  In particular, it is preferable to use wool alone or a blend of wool (also called wool) and polyester staple in terms of wear resistance and durability caused by the movement of the wearer.

  The long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention has a large influence on the physical properties of the fabric due to the composite ratio of the long fiber and the short fiber, and preferably, the proportion of the short fiber to the entire long and short composite spun yarn is It is good to set it as 50 to 95 weight%, More preferably, it is 60 to 90 weight%. Here, when the amount is less than 50% by weight, the entanglement between the short fiber and the multifilament is adversely affected. On the other hand, if it exceeds 95% by weight, the effect of reinforcing the physical properties of the woven fabric by the multifilament is unfavorable.

  The long and short composite spun yarn used in the suit fabric of the present invention is a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn that is electrically opened and overlapped with a drafted short fiber bundle (also called short fiber fleece) just before the front roller. Manufactured by composite spinning.

  The opening width of the synthetic fiber multifilament is preferably equal to or greater than the maximum width of the short fiber fleece.

  Determination of the supply position of the synthetic fiber multifilament and the short fiber fleece can be adjusted by using the position of the opened electrode or a dedicated guide for the opened filament. The opening width of the synthetic fiber multifilament is adjusted by adjusting the opening voltage, supply tension, filament dedicated guide, etc.

  The long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention can be produced using, for example, the apparatus shown in FIG. That is, according to FIG. 1, the apparatus has a back roller 1, a cradle 2, and a front roller 3 arranged in this order, and a winding device having a snell wire 4 below the front roller 3 and a ring and a traveler 5 below. Further, an opening electrode 6 for applying static electricity from above is provided above the feeding side of the front roller 3 and an annular guide 7 is provided below the opening electrode 6.

  Next, a preferable production example of the long and short composite spun yarn used for the suit fabric of the present invention will be described. First, the multifilament yarn A taken up by the PAN 8 is released, the guide 9 is passed through, the static electricity is applied and opened by the spread electrode 6, and the front roller is then controlled through the annular guide 7 while controlling the spread width and supply position. 3 is supplied. On the other hand, the roving yarn B is supplied to the back roller 1, drafted between the cradle 2 and the front roller 3, and supplied to the front roller 3 as a fleece short fiber bundle B. The opened multifilament yarn A and the fleece short fiber bundle B supplied to the front roller 3 are mixed at the nip point of the front roller 3. At this time, the spread width of the multifilament is set to be equal to or greater than the maximum width of the short fiber fleece, and the center of the opened multifilament is overlapped and mixed with the center of the short fiber fleece. The multifilament and the short fiber fleece that have passed through the front roller 3 are twisted to keep the cross section uniformly mixed, and are wound around the tube yarn 10 by the ring and traveler 5 via the snell wire 4. At this time, spinning is performed at a twisting coefficient of 40 to 100. The long and short composite spun single yarns thus obtained are further twisted by twisting together a plurality of yarns with a twist coefficient of 50 to 110, preferably 2 to 3, more preferably 2, and so-called twin yarns or triplet yarns. And then subjected to a weaving process.

  The long and short composite spun yarns used in the suit fabric of the present invention are twisted by drawing a plurality of long and short composite spun single yarns, and preferably are twin yarns or triplet yarns. Since conventional woven fabrics are generally woven without gluing during weaving, long and short composite spun yarns, and twisted yarns of single lashed yarns and various filaments should also be twisted by increasing the number of twists. I needed it. Accordingly, the texture of the fabric becomes hard, and it is not particularly suitable for use in autumn and winter. However, in the present invention, the above-mentioned problem of the texture of the conventional product is solved by setting the number of twists of the single yarn of the long and short composite spun yarn to be a sweet twist compared to the conventional product.

  The twist coefficient of the long and short composite spun yarn used in the suit fabric of the present invention, that is, the starting raw yarn, is 40 to 100, more preferably 55 to 85. When the twist coefficient is less than 40, the spinnability tends to decrease, and when used in a woven fabric, the occurrence of pilling tends to increase, such being undesirable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 100, the problem of spinnability and pilling is solved, but the texture of the fabric becomes hard.

  If you use single yarns of long and short composite spun yarns, the above-mentioned coefficient of sweet twist causes problems in weaving properties, but by twisting 2 to 3 single yarns, problems such as weaving properties and occurrence of pilling are solved. The

  It is preferable that the twist coefficient is 50 to 120 when two to three or more long and short composite spun yarns (starting raw yarns) used in the suit fabric of the present invention are aligned and twisted. If the twisting coefficient at this time is less than 50, fluff is liable to occur and the weaving property is deteriorated, which causes a problem of pilling. If it exceeds 120, the yarn is tightened and the texture tends to become hard, which is not preferable. A more preferable range of the twist coefficient is 60 to 110.

The range of the cover factor (CF) of the suit fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited,
48.0 to 85.0, more preferably 51.0 to 80.0. If it is less than 48, the tension and durability of the entire fabric are insufficient, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if it exceeds 85, the durability tends to be improved, but the texture becomes hard and the wearing comfort is lowered, the lightness cannot be obtained, and it is not suitable for the intended suit application.

  In particular, the preferred region of the fabric cover factor varies with the fabric texture. For example, in the case of plain weave and twill weave, the following regions are particularly preferable. In the case of plain weave, the cover factor is preferably 50.0 to 62.0, more preferably 51.0 to 59.0. In the case of 2/1 twill weave, it is preferably 60.0 to 80.0, more preferably 65, 0 to 75, 0. Since plain weave is the most stable structure, it can maintain the shape as a woven fabric even when the number of driven-in wires is small, and can obtain form stability and durability when worn, and is therefore a preferable structure for lightweight fabrics. Since the 2/1 twill weave is relatively easy to maintain the shape, the number of driving can be reduced.

The cover factor (sometimes abbreviated as CF) referred to in the present invention is obtained as follows.
CF = CF (warp) + CF (weft)
CF (warp) = Warp density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wrist count)
CF (weft) = Weft density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wool count)

The basis weight of the suit fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but in a plain fabric, it is preferably 120 to 165 (g / m ² ), more preferably 125 to 155 (g / m ² ). More preferably, it is good to set it as 130-150 (g / m < ² >). In a 2/1 twill fabric, it is good to set it as 150-220 (g / m < ² >), More preferably, it is 165-200 (g / m < ² >). More preferably, it is good to set it as 170-190 (g / m < ² >). Here, when the plain fabric is less than 120 g / m ² and the 2/1 twill fabric is less than 150 g / m ² , the tension of the entire fabric is reduced and the durability is insufficient. On the other hand, if the plain fabric exceeds 165 g / m ² and the 2/1 twill fabric exceeds 220 g / m ² , it is not preferable because the fabric itself feels stiff.

The suit fabric of the present invention has a large durability and pilling-suppressing effect especially when it is made into a suit by forming the fabric basis weight (g / m ² ) in the vicinity of 2.5 times the fabric cover factor (CF). This is preferable. The vicinity of 2.5 times mentioned here is 2.35 to 2.65. In particular, it has been found that there is a preferable range depending on the woven structure. In plain weave and 2/1 twill weave, it is 2.45 to 2.55.

  The woven fabric of the present invention is subjected to a hair burning treatment with a gas burner by passing the woven green machine through a gas hair burning machine at a temperature of about 400 to 1200 ° C. and a processing speed of about 30 to 100 m / min. Is desirable.

  Here, when double-sided roasting is performed, the pilling suppression effect is improved, but the fabric texture tends to be hardened.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on specific examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples, and is implemented with modifications within a range that can be adapted to the purpose described below. All of which are within the scope of the present invention.
In addition, evaluation of each performance in an Example was performed by the method as described below.

(Count)
According to 9.4.1 of the JIS L1095 general spun yarn test method.

(Measurement method of twist number)
According to 9.15.1A method of JIS L1095 general spun yarn test method.

(Twisting coefficient)
The twist coefficient is obtained by K = T / √N. Here, K is a twist coefficient, T is the number of twists per meter, and N is a single yarn count. In the case of twin yarn, use the single yarn count that composes it. (Example: 60th single yarn is expressed as 1/60, and N is calculated by 60 at this time.)

(Weaving density)
According to 8.6.1 method of JIS L 1096 General Textile Test Method.

(Weight)
According to 8.4.2 method of JIS L 1096 General Textile Test Method.

(Tear strength)
According to the JIS L 1096 General Textile Test Method 8.15.5D method (Pendulum Method).

(Measurement method of wear strength)
The number of times until the yarn constituting the woven fabric was cut was measured by JIS L 1096 8.17.5E method (Martindale method).

(Measurement method of pilling)
JIS L 1076 6. a) According to method A (ICI method).

(Measurement method of mixing ratio of long / short composite spun yarn and blended yarn)
JIS L1030-2 Test method for mixed ratio of textile products-Part 2: Mixed ratio of fibers b) By dissolution method.

(Textile texture evaluation method)
A woven fabric woven under each condition was cut into a size of 15 cm × 15 cm and used as an evaluation sample. This sample was evaluated by five monitors based on the following ranks for the tactile sensation to react as if the sample was pinched with both hands. The average value of the evaluation of five people was used as the evaluation score of the texture.
Very soft 5
Software 4
Normal 3
A little hard 2
Hard 1

(Evaluation of spinnability)
The evaluation was performed based on the number of yarn breaks per hour for one spinning machine (400 spindles).
Good 10 or less Normal 11 to 20 Bad 21 or more

Example 1
1 is supplied from the back roller 1 as the roving B to the apparatus shown in FIG. 1, and the draft ratio is 18.9 times between the back roller 1 and the cradle 2 and the front roller 3. Draft with. On the other hand, the polyester filament yarn 33 dtex / 18 filament was used as the multifilament yarn A, which was supplied to the spread electrode 6 through the guide 9. In the opening electrode 6, -3000V is applied to the multifilament yarn A for opening, then the opening width is set to 150% of the maximum width of the fleece through the annular guide 7, and the drafted fleece-shaped roving B The supply position of the opening filament and the fleece-like roving B is regulated so that the center of the opening filament overlaps with the center, and is supplied to the front roller 3 and the fleece-like rough draft drafted by the front roller 3 Long and short composite spun yarn with 24% polyester / 76% wool (also called wool), 1 / 72Nm lower twist factor 70 Was wound around the tube yarn 10.

Two of these long and short composite spun yarns are aligned and twisted into a double yarn (2/72 Nm) with an upper twist coefficient of 75 in the opposite direction (S twist) to the single yarn twist direction, and then the warp number of yarns 320 (number / 10 cm), and 2/1 twill weave was woven at a weft threading number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
In the same manner as in Example 1, after spinning a long and short composite spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester and carrying out double yarn processing, the number of warp driven 355 (pieces / 10 cm), the number of weft driven 295 A 2/1 twill weave was woven at (mains / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 76.6. The fabric weight was 194 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Example 3)
Except that the lower twist coefficient of the long / short composite spun yarn was set to 85, using the long / short composite spun yarn (2/72 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Example 1, Weaving was performed with a twill weaving of 2/1 with a weft driving number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

Example 4
A long / short composite spun yarn (2/72 Nm) processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the upper twist coefficient of the long / short composite spun yarn was set to 100, using a warp yarn number of 320 (lines / 10 cm) and weft Weaving was performed with a twill weaving of 2/1 with a driving number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Example 5)
An ESS mixed spun roving yarn (wool 65%: ESS 35%) 1 / 5.0 Nm is supplied from the back roller 1 to the apparatus shown in FIG. 1 between the back roller 1 and the cradle 2 and the front roller 3. The draft was drafted at a total draft magnification of 18.9 times. On the other hand, the polyester filament yarn 33 dtex / 18 filament was used as the multifilament yarn A, which was supplied to the spread electrode 6 through the guide 9. In the opening electrode 6, -3000V is applied to the multifilament yarn A for opening, then the opening width is set to 150% of the maximum width of the fleece through the annular guide 7, and the drafted fleece-shaped roving B The supply position of the opening filament and the fleece-like roving B is regulated so that the center of the opening filament overlaps with the center, and is supplied to the front roller 3 and the fleece-like rough draft drafted by the front roller 3 Long and short composite spun yarn with 50% polyester / 50% wool (also called wool) and 1 / 72Nm twisting factor 70, twisted to 590T / m (Z twist) Was wound around the tube yarn 10.

Two of these long and short composite spun yarns are aligned and twisted into a double yarn (2/72 Nm) with an upper twist coefficient of 75 in the opposite direction (S twist) to the single yarn twist direction, and then the warp number of yarns 320 (number / 10 cm), and 2/1 twill weave was woven at a weft threading number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Example 6)
In the same manner as in Example 1, a long and short composite spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester was spun and subjected to twin yarn processing. A plain weave was woven with (main / 10cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 54.2. The fabric weight was 135 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Example 7)
In the same manner as in Example 1, a long and short composite spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester was spun and subjected to twin yarn processing. A plain weave was woven with (main / 10cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single sided roasting process. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 60.1. The fabric weight was 152 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using a blended roving of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester, an ordinary blended yarn having a count of 1/72 Nm and a lower twisting factor of 70 was spun. Two of these blended yarns are drawn together and subjected to twin yarn processing with an upper twist coefficient of 75 in the direction opposite to the single yarn twist direction (S twist). A twill weaving of 2/1 was woven with a driving number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
In the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, twin yarn processing was performed using 1/72 Nm of ordinary blended spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester. A twill weave of 2/1 was woven with a 295 number of bundles (10/10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 76.6. The fabric weight was 194 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 3)
In the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, twin yarn processing was performed using 1/72 Nm of ordinary blended spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester. A plain weave was woven with a number of inclusions of 225 (lines / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the fabric was 54.2. The fabric weight was 135 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 4)
In the same manner as in Comparative Example 1, twin yarn processing was performed using 1/72 Nm of ordinary blended spun yarn of 76% by weight of wool and 24% by weight of polyester. A plain weave was woven at a inclusion number of 250 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 60.1. The fabric weight was 152 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 5)
A woolen yarn having a count of 1/72 Nm and a lower twisting factor of 85 was spun using 100% by weight of wool. Two of these eyelash yarns are aligned and subjected to twin yarn processing with an upper twist coefficient of 85 in the direction opposite to the single yarn twist direction (S twist), and then the number of warp threads is 320 (10/10 cm), and the weft A twill weaving of 2/1 was woven with a driving number of 270 (pieces / 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single-sided hair roasting treatment. The cover factor of the woven fabric was 69.5. The fabric weight was 174 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 6)
In the same manner as in Comparative Example 5, after performing double yarn processing using 1/72 Nm of 100% by weight woolen spun yarn, the number of warp yarns was 235 (lines / 10 cm) and the number of weft yarns was 225 (lines / A plain weave was woven at 10 cm). The fabric was then passed through a dye arrangement process. In the arranging process, the woven fabric was passed through a gas hair roasting machine to perform a single sided roasting process. The cover factor of the fabric was 54.2. The fabric weight was 135 g / m ² . The evaluation results of the fabric are shown in Table 1.

  The long and short composite spun yarn fabric of the present invention can provide a high-performance fabric that is light and wear-resistant while maintaining good texture and softness as a suit fabric, and at the same time has very little pilling. it can.

1. Back roller Cradle 3. Front roller 4. Snell wire Ring and traveler 6. Opening electrode 7. Annular guide 8. Phan 9. Guide 10. Pipe yarn

Claims (7)

  A lightweight, long and short composite spun yarn fabric for suits, characterized in that it is a fabric using at least a part of a plurality of long and short composite spun yarns in which synthetic multifilaments and short fibers are uniformly mixed. .   The lightweight long and short composite spun yarn fabric for a suit according to claim 1, wherein the uniform mixing means is electrospread mixing.   The lightweight long / short composite spun yarn fabric for suits according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the twist coefficient of the single yarn before the twisting of the long / short composite spun yarn constituting the fabric is 40-100.   The lightweight long and short composite spun yarn fabric for suits according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fineness of the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn forming the long and short composite spun yarn is 11 to 110 dtex.   The lightweight long / short composite spun yarn fabric for a suit according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the basis weight of the fabric is in a range of 120 to 200 g / cm2. The lightweight fabric for a suit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the woven fabric has a cover factor (CF) value defined by the following formula within a range of 48.0 to 85.0. Long and short composite spun yarn fabric.
CF = CF (warp) + CF (weft)
CF (warp) = Warp density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wrist count)
CF (weft) = Weft density of fabric (10 / 10cm) ÷ √ (wool count) The lightweight, long and short composite spun yarn for a suit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the frictional strength (times) of the fabric determined by the Martindale method is 23,000 or more and the pilling series of the fabric is 4 or more. fabric.

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