JP2012211408A - Milled knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a milled knitted fabric in which a cloth has high strength and is hardly broken and hardly causes pilling.SOLUTION: The milled knitted fabric is a milled knitted fabric formed by milling a knitted fabric having an animal fiber as a main component. A yarn constituting the milled knitted fabric is a double ply yarn in which at least one yarn has a core of a polyester stretch-broken yarn, and a sheath of a core-sheath structured yarn including the animal fiber. It is preferable that the double ply yarn includes the polyester stretch-broken yarn as one yarn, and the animal fiber as the other yarn. It is preferable that a twisting direction of the stretch-broken yarn (primary twisting) is the same as the twisting direction of the core-sheath structured yarn (primary twisting), and the twisting direction of the double ply yarn (secondary twisting) is opposite to the twisting direction of the primary twisting.

Description

  The present invention relates to a milled knitted fabric containing animal hair fibers.

  Milled fabrics are also called knitted fabrics, which are traditionally woven fabrics that have been crushed and packed with fabrics and leave a fine fluff. It is heavily used. As a prior art, there exists a proposal which manufactures a milled-like fabric by crimping using a chemical | medical agent, raising and fluffing (patent document 1). Patent Document 2 proposes printing, dyeing, heat-treating and shrinking. Patent Document 3 proposes heat setting before shrinking.

  However, the conventional method has a problem that the fabric strength is weakened because the surface of the fabric is raised when using 100% animal hair fibers represented by wool. On the other hand, it is conceivable to blend synthetic fibers such as polyester in order to increase the fabric strength, but there is a problem that the synthetic fibers are easily exposed on the surface of the fabric and pilling is likely to occur.

JP-A-8-41779 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-280272 JP 2001-11772 A

  In order to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention provides a milled knitted fabric with high strength, which is not easily torn and hardly causes pilling.

  The milled woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a milled woven or knitted fabric obtained by shrinking a woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of animal hair fibers, wherein the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a double yarn, and at least one of the double yarns Is characterized in that the core is a polyester check spun yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath structured yarn containing animal hair fibers.

  According to the present invention, the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a double yarn, and at least one of the double yarns is a core-sheath structured yarn in which the core includes a polyester check spun yarn and the sheath includes animal hair fibers. Can provide a milled knitted fabric with high strength that is difficult to tear and is less likely to cause pilling. In other words, by using a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is polyester check spun yarn and the sheath contains animal hair fiber in at least one of the twin yarns, the sheath fiber wraps the core check spun yarn and integrates it. As a result, the fibers that make up the core-sheath structure yarn are highly integrated, and even if the fabric is woven or knitted, it can be prevented from being exposed or released from the fabric, and the fabric has high strength and anti-pilling properties. Can be achieved.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a main part of a ring spinning machine for producing a core-sheath structured yarn in one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of a twin yarn in one embodiment of the present invention.

  The present invention is a milled woven or knitted fabric obtained by crimping a woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of animal hair fibers. In the above, the main component means 50% by weight or more. The animal hair fiber is typically wool, but also includes lamb wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, camel, and angora.

  Shrinkage is a phenomenon in which a woven or knitted fabric containing wool fibers is wetted or squeezed, the woven or knitted fabric shrinks in the length and width directions, the thickness increases, and the fluff becomes entangled and becomes dense. . Shrinking is a processing method that utilizes the property that animal hair fibers with scales become felt.

  The woven fabric of the present invention includes any structure such as plain weave, oblique weave, and satin weave. The knitted fabric includes an arbitrary structure such as a vertical knitting, a horizontal knitting, and a double-sided knitting.

  The yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a double yarn. A twin yarn is a yarn in which two single yarns are twisted together. The reason for using the double yarn is to give the strength to withstand the tension during weaving, to offset the uneven thickness of the single yarn, and to clean the eyes.

  At least one of the twin yarns is a core-sheathed yarn in which the core is a polyester check spun yarn and the sheath includes animal hair fibers. Checked spun yarn refers to a tow (bundle of long fibers) that is drafted and cut (teared) by mechanical means and twisted to obtain a spun yarn. A direct spinning method in which draft-twisting is performed by one fine spinning machine may be used, or a sliver may be once twisted to form a spun yarn (Perlock method or converter method) in two or more steps. The direct spinning method is preferable. By using the check yarn, the polyester spun yarn can be made extremely fine, the strength can be kept high, and a multilayered spun yarn excellent in integrity with the coated fiber can be obtained.

  The fineness of the check yarn is preferably in the range of 43 to 167 deci tex for single yarn (expressed as 60 to 230 in single meter, 1/60 to 1/230), more preferably in the range of 100 to 190 deci tex (meter). The count is 100 to 190 count single yarn, indicated as 1/100 to 1/190). When the fineness is in the above range, the strength is high and it is preferable from the viewpoint of texture and the like. Further, the number of twists is preferably 400 to 600 times / m, more preferably 450 to 550 times / m, with a metric count of 150 single yarn. When the number of twists is in the above range, the integrity with the coated fiber is further increased. Moreover, a preferable average fiber length is 70-120 mm. Within this range, the strength can be maintained higher.

  In the present invention, the core-sheath structured yarn containing animal hair fibers is used in the present invention because the animal hair fibers typified by wool are arranged on the surface in a woven or knitted state and the characteristics of the animal hair fibers are utilized. This is to make a woven or knitted fabric. That is, if it is animal hair fiber, it is easy to contract, it is easy to raise fine fluff, the surface becomes soft and soft, and it is easy to give a warm texture.

  In the present invention, it is preferable that one of the twin yarns is the core-sheath structure yarn and the other is an animal hair fiber spun yarn. If one of the twin yarns is a core-sheath structure yarn, a sufficient improvement in strength can be realized. Although both twin yarns may be core-sheath structured yarns, the problem is that the strength becomes unnecessarily large and the cost is high.

  The twist direction of the check spun yarn (primary twist) and the twist direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) are the same, and the twist direction of the double yarn (secondary twist) is opposite to the twist direction of the primary twist Is preferred. In this way, the primary twist is twisted back into a sweet twisted state, and the single fiber is easy to move, making it easier to shrink, making it easier to raise fine fluff, and the surface becomes soft and soft There is a synergistic effect that makes it easy to produce a warm texture.

  The proportions of the twin yarn animal hair fiber and polyester are preferably 65 to 95% by weight of animal hair fiber and 5 to 35% by weight of polyester. More preferably, it is 70-90 weight% of animal hair fiber, and 10-30 weight% of polyester. If it is the said range, it will be easy to produce the fluff of animal hair fiber, raising, fluffing, a softness | flexibility, and a warm texture, and it will be easy to produce the strength improvement effect of a polyester fiber. The twin yarn preferably further contains an antistatic fiber. The antistatic fibers are preferably blended with animal hair fibers to form sheath fibers. Examples of the antistatic fiber include metal fiber, carbon fiber, metal particles, and fibers kneaded with carbon particles. The antistatic fiber is preferably added in the range of 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, based on the core-sheath spun yarn.

  Examples of the milled knitted fabric of the present invention include furano (also referred to as flannel), melton, saxony and the like. Furano uses warp yarn or spun yarn for both warp and weft yarns, and is made into a plain weave or twill weave, then crimped, raised, and completely covered with fluff. Melton is a woolen fabric that uses thick and soft spun yarns for both warp and weft yarns, and has a strong crimp to suppress the surface. Saxony is halfway between Melton and Furano, and it may or may not be brushed after shrinking, but it covers the surface with fluff to the extent that the eye of the thread is visible. Although the above has been described for the woven fabric, it can also be applied to a knitted fabric.

The method for dyeing the milled knitted fabric of the present invention includes the following methods.
(1) Dye both polyester check spun yarn and animal hair fiber in the yarn state.
(2) Dye both polyester check spun yarn and animal hair fiber in the fabric state.
(3) The polyester check spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fibers are dyed in the yarn state.
(4) The polyester check spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and animal hair fibers are dyed in a fabric state.
(5) The polyester check spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and animal hair fibers are dyed (top dyeing) at the raw cotton stage. In this case, there is an advantage that marbling can be performed and hue such as color matching is stabilized.

  In the above, in the case of the anti-dyeing of (2) or (4), it is preferable to heat set at a temperature equal to or higher than the heat setting temperature of the polyester fiber before dyeing after forming the woven or knitted fabric using the above-mentioned double yarn. If it does in this way, in the post process including dyeing, it will not shrink by heat, there will be no dimensional change, and color matching will become easy. As for color matching, there is a problem that when it shrinks due to heat in a post-process including dyeing, it becomes darker than the color of a sample made in advance. In the above, when the polyester fiber is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber, the heat setting temperature is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. More preferably, it is 160-180 degreeC.

The preferred single yarn fineness of the core-sheath structured yarn of the present invention is 125 to 417 dtex (24 to 80 meter count single yarn, indicated as 1/24 to 1/80), and the preferred single yarn fineness of the twin yarn is 250 to 833 dtex ( 12-40 meter count single yarn, indicated as 2 / 24-2 / 80). Moreover, the preferable fabric weight of a woven / knitted fabric is 150-380 g / m < ² >. In addition, conventional methods are used for the manufacture of woven and knitted fabrics, shrinking, dyeing, heat setting, and the like.

  The manufacturing method of the core-sheath structure yarn used by this invention is demonstrated using drawing. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a main part of a ring spinning machine in one embodiment of the present invention. Two large and small cylindrical bodies 2 and 3 having different diameters are provided for each weight on the front bottom roller 1 that is actively rotated. The two cylindrical bodies 2 and 3 are directly connected coaxially in the axial direction. Two cylindrical front top rollers 4 and 5 having different diameters are placed on the two cylindrical bodies 2 and 3. The difference in diameter between the two front top rollers 4 and 5 is substantially the same as the difference in diameter between the lower two cylindrical bodies 2 and 3, but the size is opposite to that of the lower two cylindrical bodies 2 and 3. The two front top rollers 4 and 5 are covered with a rubber cot, and are fitted on a common arbor 6 to which a load is applied so as to be independently rollable. The animal hair fiber bundle B pulled out from the roving bobbin is supplied from the guide bar to the back roller 8 through the trumpet feeder 7.

  Although not shown, the trumpet feeder 7 can be swung in the axial direction of the front bottom roller 1, and the swiveling width can be adjusted. The animal hair fiber bundle B sent from the back roller 8 and passed through the draft apron 9 is held and spun by the large diameter side cylindrical body 3 and the small diameter side cylindrical front top roller 5. The polyester check-cut spun yarn A is spun by being supplied to the small-diameter cylindrical body 2 and the large-diameter cylindrical front top roller 4 via the yarn guide 14.

  Since the feeding speed of the animal hair fiber bundle B spun from the large diameter side cylindrical body 3 is faster than the spinning speed of the polyester check yarn spun from the small diameter side cylindrical body 2, the snail wire 10 is used. When two spun polyester check spun yarns A and the animal hair fiber bundle B are twisted together, the animal hair fiber bundle B covers the polyester check spun yarn A, and the polyester check spun yarn A A core-sheath spun yarn C is formed with the animal hair fiber bundle B as a sheath.

  The overfeed rate of the animal hair fiber bundle B with respect to the polyester check spun yarn A is preferably 5 to 9%, and more preferably 6 to 8%. When the overfeed rate is in the above-mentioned range, the animal hair fiber bundle B can wrap the polyester check spun yarn A in a “twist” shape, and can cover the core fiber with a coverage of almost 100%.

  The formed core-sheath spun yarn C is wound around the yarn tube 13 on the weight via the anti-node ring 11 and the traveler 12. Even if the grip position on the cylinders 2 and 3 of the polyester check spun yarn A and the animal fiber bundle B is slightly varied from weight to weight, the ratio of the delivery speeds of the two is always constant. There is no possibility that the properties of the sheath-structured spun yarn C vary from weight to weight. Further, when the trumpet feeder 7 is swung within the possible range in the axial direction of the front bottom roller 1, the friction area of the front top roller 5 with the animal hair fiber bundle B of the rubber cot coating is dispersed, and the rubber cot coating is prematurely worn. Can be prevented. Although not shown, it is desirable that the yarn guide 14 is swung in the axial direction of the front bottom roller 1 to reduce wear of the rubber cot coating of the cylindrical front top roller 4.

Hereinafter, more specific description will be made using examples. The measurement methods in Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention were as follows.
(1) Textile strength Measured according to JIS L 1096A method.
(2) Anti-pill property It measured according to JISL1076A method.
(3) Texture It was measured by a KES texture measurement method test manufactured by Kato Tech.
(4) Other physical properties Measured according to JIS or industry standards.

Example 1
(1) Manufacture of core-sheath structured yarn A regular polyester tow (single yarn fineness: 1.1 deci tex, total fineness: 1760 deci tex) manufactured by Trevira, Germany, was spun and spun to a 150 meter count yarn (1 / A spun yarn having a display of 150, 67 deci tex) and a twist number of 490 times / m (Z twist) was obtained. The single yarn fineness of the constituent fibers of this spun yarn was 1.0 deci tex, the fiber length was distributed in the range of 16 to 200 mm, and the average fiber length was 95 mm. The check spun yarn A was supplied to the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 so as to be a core component. Meanwhile, 75 parts by weight of wool (average diameter 22.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm), 24.5 parts by weight of lamb wool (average diameter 20 μm, average fiber length 50 mm) and antistatic fibers as animal hair fibers in the sheath As an animal hair fiber bundle B prepared by blending 0.5 parts by weight of “Beltron”, single fiber fineness 5.6 deci tex, average fiber length: 89 mm, manufactured by KB Seiren Co., Ltd. The core-sheath structured yarn C was obtained. The obtained yarn was a 52-meter count single yarn (indicated as 1/52, 192 deci tex) and a twist number of 690 times / m (Z twist). The raw material ratio of the obtained core-sheath structured yarn was 49.0% by weight of wool and 16.0% by weight of lamb and wool. The polyester fiber was 34.7% by weight and the antistatic fiber was 0.3% by weight.

(2) Production of animal wool spun yarn As animal hair fibers, 75 parts by weight of wool (average diameter 22.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) and 24.5 parts by weight of lamb wool (average diameter 20 μm, average fiber length 50 mm) As an antistatic fiber, 0.5 part by weight of “Beltlon” manufactured by KB Seiren, single fiber fineness 5.6 deci tex, average fiber length: 89 mm was blended, and an animal hair spun yarn was obtained using a ring spinning machine. The obtained yarn was 52 meters (indicated as 1/52, 192 deci tex) and 610 twists / m (Z twist).

(3) Manufacture of double yarn The core-sheath structure yarn and animal hair spun yarn obtained as described above were twisted with a double twister at a twist number of 520 times / m (S twist) to obtain a double yarn. A schematic cross-sectional view of this twin yarn is shown in FIG. The twin yarn 20 is composed of a core-sheath structure yarn 23 and an animal hair spun yarn 24, and the core-sheath structure yarn 23 has a polyester check spun yarn 21 disposed in the core and a wool fiber component 22 disposed in the sheath.

(4) Fabric production Using the above-mentioned two-ply yarn for warp and weft, a woven fabric having a finished warp density of 83 yarns / inch (25.4 mm) and a weft density of 73 yarns / inch (25.4 mm) in a 2/2 twill structure was obtained.

(5) Shrinking and heat setting The above-mentioned woven fabric was shrunk using a Hemmer Company's shrinking machine at a shrinkage rate of 72%. Here, the contraction rate represents the ratio of the area after contraction to the area before contraction. After crimping, the hair was raised using a brush raising machine manufactured by Nikkiso Co., Ltd. and equipped with 12 pile rollers and a counter pile roller each having an outer diameter of 900 mm and a diameter of 90 mm alternately. After raising, heat setting was performed at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds.

(6) Dyeing and post-processing Next, according to a conventional method, dyeing was performed at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes, followed by drawing out at 120 ° C. for 5 minutes. After this, the fluff was trimmed using a 6-blade trimming machine manufactured by Iwakura Seiki Co., Ltd. and the surface was set using a steaming machine.

The resulting furano fabric has a basis weight of 271 g / m ² , has good shrinkage, has a fluffy surface covered with fine fluff, has a warm texture, and has an anti-pill resistance of grade 4-5. It became the textile of. The fabric strength was 663N in the vertical direction and 579N in the horizontal direction.

(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1, a furano fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that two 100% animal wool spun yarns were used instead of the core-sheath structured yarn to make a double yarn. The resulting furano fabric has a basis weight of 276 g / m ² , a good shrinkage, a fluffy surface covered with soft fluff, a warm texture and anti-pill resistance of 5th grade. However, the fabric strength was 420N in the vertical direction and 354N in the horizontal direction, and there was a problem in the fabric strength as compared with Example 1.

(Example 2)
In Example 1, the yarn count of the polyester check spun yarn was set to 125 meter count yarn (indicated as 1/125, 80 deci tex), and the yarn count of the core-sheath structure yarn and the animal hair spun yarn was set to 44 meter count yarn, respectively. (Displayed as 1/44, 227 deci tex), except that the number of twists was 630 and 560 times / m, both were twisted at 300 times / m, and the brushing process was not performed after crimping. Performed as in Example 1.

Using the above-mentioned double yarn for warp and weft, a woven fabric having a 2/2 twill structure and a finished warp density of 76 yarns / inch (25.4 mm) and a weft density of 65 yarns / inch (25.4 mm) was obtained. The resulting saxony fabric has a basis weight of 279 g / m ² , good shrinkage, the surface covered with fine fluff is soft and fluffy, has a warm texture, and has an anti-pill resistance grade 4-5 It became the textile of. The fabric strength was 857N in the vertical direction and 699N in the horizontal direction.

(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 2, a saxony fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 2, except that two spun yarns in which animal hair fibers and polyester fibers were uniformly mixed without using a core-sheath structure yarn were used to form twin yarns. The basis weight of the saxony fabric obtained is 244 g / m ² , the shrinkage is poor, and the surface not covered with fine fluff is crusty and strong, and the anti-pill property is poor in warmth. It became. The fabric strength was 702N in the vertical direction and 556N in the horizontal direction. Compared to Example 2, the fabric strength was reduced and there was a problem in anti-pill properties.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Front bottom roller 2 Large diameter cylindrical body 3 Small cylindrical body 4,5 Front top roller 6 Arbor 7 Trumpet feeder 8 Back roller 9 Draft apron 10 Snell wire 11 Anti-node ring 12 Traveler 13 Thread pipe 14 Yarn guide 20 Double thread 21 Polyester Checked spun yarn 22 Wool fiber component 23 Core-sheath structured yarn 24 Animal hair spun yarn A Polyester Checked spun yarn B Animal hair fiber bundle C Core-sheath structured yarn

Claims (7)

A milled woven or knitted fabric obtained by shrinking a woven or knitted fabric mainly composed of animal hair fibers,
The yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a double yarn,
A milled woven or knitted fabric characterized in that at least one of the twin yarns is a core-checked spun yarn, and a sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers.   The milled woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein one of the twin yarns is the core-sheath structure yarn and the other is a spun yarn containing animal hair fibers.   The twist direction of the check yarn (primary twist) and the twist direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) are the same, and the twist direction of the double yarn (secondary twist) is the twist direction of the primary twist. The milled woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which is reverse.   The milled knitted or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a ratio of the animal yarn fibers and the polyester fibers of the double yarn is 70 to 95% by weight of animal hair fibers and 5 to 30% by weight of polyester fibers.   The milled woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising an antistatic fiber in the twin yarn.   The milled woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the milled woven or knitted fabric is at least one selected from Furano, Melton, and Saxony.   The milled woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the animal hair fibers are wool.

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