JPWO2019116591A1 - Weaving and knitting for clothes and clothes using this - Google Patents

Abstract

The garment woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is a garment woven and knitted fabric containing animal hair fibers as a main component, and the yarns constituting the woven and knitted fabric are twin yarns (20, 25) and twin yarns (20, 25). The core (21) of at least one of the single yarns is a polyester cut-and-spun yarn, and the sheath (22) is a core-sheath structure yarn (23) containing animal hair fibers. This woven and knitted fabric is suitable for clothing, especially suits. As an example, the outer garment is a double-threaded woven fabric having a one-eye structure shown in FIG. 2 (A), and the trousers are a woven fabric having a double-eyed structure shown in FIG. 2 (B). Thereby, it is possible to provide a woven or knitted garment that is highly strong, hard to tear, and hard to cause pilling, and clothes using the same.

Description

The present invention relates to woven and knitted garments containing animal hair fibers and garments using the same.

Persons in charge of the Imperial Guard, VIP security police, plainclothes detectives, etc. are obliged to wear suits. These personnel have been standing for a long time, but in the event of an emergency, they have encountered extremely harsh conditions such as being exposed to flames, resulting in severe burns and the tragedy of line of duty. It was occurring many times. On the other hand, from the viewpoint of security, investigation / surveillance and inspection, suits for these occupational personnel are of appropriate dignity, lightweight and easy to work, durable and long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, easy care, and relatively inexpensive. It is also necessary to have such characteristics.

Conventionally, Patent Document 1 has proposed a composite spun yarn in which an elastic fiber is used as a core and is covered with a short fiber such as wool and a sheath fiber of a synthetic fiber multifilament. Patent Document 2 proposes a garment composed of a twisted yarn of an animal hair fiber yarn and a normal pressure dyeable polyester fiber yarn. However, the conventional woven fabric for suits and the clothes using the same have the following problems.

(1) Most of the suits on the market are fine-count pure wool or blended fabrics with polyester, and these are easy-to-burn (that is, round burn) in the JIS L 1091 A-4 method vertical combustion test. Shows remarkable behavior of sex materials.

(2) Wool material can be made flame-retardant by Zapro processing, but since polyester is a combustible material, flame retardancy such as blended spinning, combustion, mixed weaving, and mixed knitting has not been realized so far. ..

(3) Pure hair suits have a good texture and give a feeling of high quality, but because they are animal hair fibers, their strength is low and special care is required for washing and ironing.

(4) On the other hand, in the case of blended woven fabrics, polyester, which is considerably cheaper than wool, is used, so it is cheap and durable, but hairballs (pills) are likely to occur, and the texture is hard, resulting in poor quality. there were.

JP-A-2010-209487 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 10-077542

In order to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention provides a woven or knitted fabric for clothes, which is relatively inexpensive, has high strength, is hard to tear, is hard to cause pilling, and is hard to burn, and clothes using the same.

The garment woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is a garment woven and knitted fabric containing animal hair fibers as a main component, and the yarns constituting the woven and knitted fabric are twin yarns, and at least one single yarn of the twin yarns has a core. It is a polyester cut-off spun yarn, and is characterized in that the sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers.

The present invention is a garment using the above-mentioned woven and knitted garment, and the garment is a suit.

The present invention is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns, and at least one of the two single yarns has a core portion of a cut-through spun yarn and a sheath portion of animal hair fiber. It is a core-sheath structure yarn containing the above, and the strength of the core portion is higher than the strength of the sheath portion.

In the present invention, the yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric is a twin yarn, and at least one single yarn of the twin yarn is a core-sheath structure yarn containing polyester pruning yarn and a sheath containing animal hair fibers. It is possible to provide a woven or knitted fabric for clothes, which is relatively inexpensive, has high strength, is hard to tear, is hard to cause pilling, and is hard to burn, and clothes using the same. That is, by using a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a polyester pruning spun yarn and the sheath portion contains animal hair fibers for at least one single yarn of the twin yarn, the sheath fiber wraps the core pruning spun yarn. The fibers that make up the core-sheath structure yarn have an extremely high degree of conjugation, are inexpensive, have high strength, and are not easily torn. Polyester, which is the source of fluff, is concentrated on the core and is placed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. It is a form in which pilling is extremely unlikely to occur. In addition, it has the appropriate dignity, is lightweight and easy to work, is durable and long-lasting, is hard to wrinkle, and has characteristics such as easy care. In addition, when flame retardancy is imparted, it is possible to provide a garment knitted fabric suitable for a guard suit and clothes using the same.

Further, the yarn of the present invention is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns, and at least one of the two single yarns has a core portion of a draw-spun yarn and a sheath. The portion is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers, and the strength of the core portion is higher than the strength of the sheath portion, so that the texture is good and the strength is high while being relatively inexpensive.

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a main part of a ring spinning machine for manufacturing a core-sheath structure yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention. 2 (A)-(B) are schematic cross-sectional views of a twin yarn in one embodiment of the present invention, and FIG. 2 (A) is an example and a view of a twin yarn of a core sheath structure single yarn and a pure wool single yarn. 2 (B) is an example of a core-sheath structure twin yarn. FIG. 3 is a schematic explanatory view of flame-retardant processed wool according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a front view of a men's suit according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 5 is a front view of a women's suit according to another embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 6 is a front view of a women's suit according to still another embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

Polyester blended knitted fabrics are generally made to have high flame and high yarn density for the purpose of blocking the movement of fibers in the yarn which is a component thereof in order to suppress pilling. However, these means are also prone to wrinkles, hard texture, and lack of dignity.

The present invention has been completed from the idea that the following characteristics are required in order to make a certain woven or knitted fabric into the above-mentioned ideal type suit. Further flame retardancy is required to make it a security suit.

(1) Good pilling property even with the same number of twists and yarn densities as pure woolen knitted fabrics.

(2) Have the same texture as pure wool knitted fabric.

(3) Polyester blending ratio Must have higher strength than blended yarn of the same count.

(4) It has good washing resistance equal to or higher than that of polyester blended knitted fabric.

(5) Have good pleating properties equal to or better than polyester blended knitted fabrics.

(6) It is relatively inexpensive.

The present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing animal hair fibers as a main component. In the above, the main component means 50% by weight or more. Animal hair fibers are preferably 55 to 95% by weight, polyester fibers are 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably animal hair fibers are 60 to 90% by weight and polyester fibers are 10 to 40% by weight. Wool is a typical example of animal hair fiber, but lamb wool, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, camel, and angora may also be included.

The woven and knitted fabric is preferably flame-retardant. For flame retardancy, Zirpro processing developed by IWS (International Wool Secretariat) is preferable. Zapro processing binds an anionic complex of titanium or zirconium to animal hair fibers (preferably wool) at 60-70 ° C. in acidity (pH 3 or less) to further enhance the inherent flame retardancy of animal hair fibers. It is a process to enhance. A schematic diagram of the bond between the animal hair fiber and the metal complex salt is shown in FIG. In FIG. 3, M is titanium or zirconium, and X is chloride or fluoride. The critical oxygen index (LOI) of wool is 25.2, while that of Zapro-processed wool is as high as 27 to 33, which makes it flame-retardant. Since it is not processed with resin, it does not impair the excellent texture of animal hair fibers. In the present invention, it is preferable to use an anionic complex salt compound of zirconium. This is because it does not cause discoloration. Titanium compounds are inexpensive but may be accompanied by yellowing discoloration.

Since at least one single yarn of the twin yarn of the present invention is a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a polyester cut-spun yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fiber, the animal hair fiber is exposed to flame when it is made flame-retardant. At that time, the sheath on the surface layer acts as a barrier to stop the spread of fire. In the JIS L 1091 A-4 alternative method (Annex 8) vertical combustion test, the flame retardancy is preferably 20 cm or less, and more preferably 10 to 20 cm. This test method is useful when it is assumed that the test method will be exposed to flame in an emergency, and the shorter the carbonization length, the higher the flame retardancy.

The woven fabric of the present invention includes an arbitrary structure such as plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. Knitting includes any organization such as vertical, horizontal, round, and double-sided knitting.

The yarn constituting the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a twin yarn. A twin yarn is a yarn obtained by twisting two single yarns. The reason for using twin yarns is not so much in the case of knitting, but in particular, it gives strength to withstand the tension at the time of weaving, and also offsets the thickness and twist unevenness of single yarns to homogenize and adjust the texture of the eyes. Because.

At least one single yarn of the twin yarn is a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a polyester cut-out spun yarn and the sheath contains animal hair fibers. A spinn yarn is a spun yarn obtained by cutting a tow (bundle of long fibers) while drafting it by mechanical means (tearing = tearing) and twisting it. It may be a direct spinning method in which draft-twisting is performed by one spinning frame, or it may be a spun yarn (parlock method or converter method) in two or more steps by twisting once as a sliver. A straight spinning method is preferable. By using the check yarn, the polyester spun yarn can be maintained at a high strength while being extremely fine, and a multilayer structure spun yarn having excellent integrity with the coating fiber can be obtained. Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is preferable as the polyester.

The preferred fineness of the pruning yarn is in the range of 43 to 167 deci tex for single yarn (60 to 230 metric count single yarn = 1/60 to 1/230), and more preferably 53 to 100 deci tex (meter). The count is in the range of 100 to 190 count single yarn = 1/100 to 1/190). If the fineness is in the above range, the strength is high and it is suitable from the viewpoint of texture and the like. The number of twists is, for example, a metric-count 175-count single yarn, preferably 400 to 650 times / m, and more preferably 450 to 600 times / m. When the number of twists is in the above range, the integrity with the coating fiber becomes further excellent. The preferred average fiber length is 70-120 mm. Within this range, the strength can be maintained even higher.

In the present invention, the core sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers is used because the animal hair fibers typified by wool are arranged on the surface in a woven or knitted state, and the characteristics of the fibers are fully utilized in the garment. This is to make it a material for use. That is, animal hair fibers have a good texture and an excellent aesthetic appearance. On the other hand, the use of polyester cut-through spun yarn for the core has the advantage that sharp pleats can be obtained and it is difficult to remove because the polyester fiber has high strength and heat setting, but polyester is used as a uniform mixed spun yarn. This is to prevent a significant appearance defect problem due to pilling due to the high strength of the fiber from appearing on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, that is, the yarn of its constituent elements. The problem of pilling can be greatly improved if polyester fibers are present only in the core and the surroundings are covered with animal hair fibers.

In the present invention, it is preferable that one single yarn is the core-sheath structure yarn and the other is an animal hair fiber spun yarn. If one of the twin yarns is a core-sheath structure yarn, sufficient strength improvement can be realized. Both single yarns of the twin yarns may be used as core-sheath structure yarns. In this case, the strength is further increased.

It is preferable that the twisting direction of the cut-through spun yarn (primary twist) and the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) are the same, and the twisting direction of the twin yarn (secondary twist) is opposite to that of the primary twist. In this way, the primary twist is returned to a sweet twist state, and since the single fibers are easy to move, it is easier to fluff, it is easy to make fine fluff, the surface becomes fluffy and soft, and it is warm. There is a synergistic effect that it is easy to give a certain texture. Here, the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) is the twisting direction of the polyester pruning spinning yarn A which is the core of the core-sheath structure spinning yarn C (core-sheath structure yarn) shown in the enlarged view on the right side of FIG. This is the winding direction of the animal hair fiber bundle B (animal hair fiber thread) wound around the circumference. In the enlarged view on the right side of FIG. 1, a spiral line is schematically drawn on the outer peripheral surface of the polyester cut-out spun yarn A in order to show the twisting direction. Further, by making the twist direction the same and adjusting the number of twists as described above, the integrity of the core and the sheath is improved.

The ratio of the animal hair of the twin yarn to the fiber of the polyester is preferably 55 to 95% by weight of the animal hair and 5 to 45% by weight of the polyester. More preferably, it is 60 to 90% by weight of animal hair and 10 to 40% by weight of polyester. Within the above range, it is easy to obtain the flexibility and warm texture peculiar to animal hair fibers, and it is easy to obtain the washing resistance, pleated goodness and strength improving effect of polyester fibers. The twin yarns preferably contain antistatic fibers. The antistatic fiber is preferably blended with animal hair fiber to form a sheath. Antistatic fibers include metal fibers, carbon fibers, and fibers in which metal particles and carbon particles are kneaded. The antistatic fiber is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.3 to 0.7% by weight, based on the core-sheath structure spun yarn.

There are the following methods for dyeing the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention.

(1) Both polyester cut-out spun yarn and animal hair fiber are dyed in the state of yarn. (Thread dyeing)

(2) Both polyester cut-out spun yarn and animal hair fiber are dyed in the state of cloth. (Anti-dyeing)

(3) The polyester cut-off spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fibers are dyed in the yarn state. (Thread dyeing)

(4) The polyester cut-out spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fibers are dyed in a cloth state. (Anti-dyeing)

(5) The polyester cut-out spun yarn is colored or uncolored, and the animal hair fibers are dyed in a sliver state. In this case, it is called top dyeing, and it has the advantage of stabilizing the hue in color matching such as frost formation.

In the case of the anti-dyeing of (2) or (4) above, it is preferable to heat-set the polyester fiber at a temperature equal to or higher than the crystallization point of the polyester fiber after forming a woven or knitted fabric using the core-sheath structure yarn. In this way, the size does not change due to heat in the post-process including dyeing, and the color matching becomes easy. The dimensional change causes a hue change. For example, when shrinkage occurs, a phenomenon occurs in which the color becomes darker than the color sample prototyped in advance, which causes a problem. When the polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate, the heat setting temperature is preferably 150 to 190 ° C. More preferably, it is 160 to 180 ° C.

The preferred fineness of the core-sheath structure yarn of the present invention is in the range of 125 to 417 deci tex for a single yarn (displayed as 24 to 80 count single yarn = 1/24 to 1/80 for a metric count), and the preferable fineness of a twin yarn. Is in the range of 250 to 833 deci tex (displayed as 12 to 40 count twin yarn = 2/24 to 2/80 in metric count). The preferred basis weight of the woven or knitted fabric is 150 to 380 g / m ² . In addition, the conventional method is used for weaving / knitting, arranging processes such as washing / simmering / drying, and dyeing / heat setting.

A method of manufacturing the core-sheath structure yarn used in the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing a main part of a ring spinning machine according to an embodiment of the present invention. A columnar body 3 is provided for each weight on the front bottom main shaft 1 that is actively rotationally driven. The front bottom main shaft 1 is connected to the inside of the front bottom sub shaft roller 15 by a core rod. A drive belt 16 is hung on the front bottom sub-shaft 15 that is actively driven to rotate, and the rotation speed can be set to be independent of the rotation speed of the front bottom main shaft 1. Each rotation speed is variable, and the overfeed rate described later can be set arbitrarily. A columnar body 2 is provided on the front bottom sub-shaft 15 for each weight. The two cylinders 2 and 3 are separated and can have different rotation speeds. The front top sub roller 4 is placed on the cylinder 2, and the front top main roller 5 is placed on the cylinder 3. The front top sub roller 4 and the front top main roller 5 are covered with rubber cots, and are independently rotatably fitted to the common arbor 6 to which a load is applied. The animal hair fiber bundle B drawn from the blister bobbin is supplied from the guide bar to the back roller 8 via the trumpet feeder 7.

Although not shown, the trumpet feeder 7 can swing in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1, and the swing width thereof can be adjusted. The animal hair fiber bundle B sent from the back roller 8 and passed through the draft apron 9 is gripped by the cylindrical body 3 and the cylindrical front top main roller 5 and spun. The polyester cut-off spun yarn A is supplied to the cylindrical body 2 and the cylindrical front top subroller 4 via the yarn guide 14 and spun.

The front bottom main shaft 1 and the front so that the spinning speed of the animal hair fiber bundle B spun from the cylinder 3 is faster than the spinning speed of the polyester pruning spun yarn A spun from the cylinder 2. The rotation speed of the bottom sub-shaft 15 is determined. By doing so, when the two spun polyester pruning yarns A and the animal hair fiber bundle B are twisted via the snell wire 10, the animal hair fiber bundle B is wound around the polyester pruning yarn A. Is coated, and a core-sheath structure spun yarn C having a polyester pruning yarn A as a core and an animal hair fiber bundle B as a sheath is formed. It looks like the enlarged view on the right side of FIG.

The overfeed ratio of the animal hair fiber bundle B with respect to the polyester cut-off spun yarn A is preferably 5 to 20%, more preferably 8 to 15%. When the overfeed rate is in the above range, the animal hair fiber bundle B can wrap the polyester cut-through spun yarn A in a "twisted shape" and coat the core fibers with a coverage rate of almost 100%.

The formed core-sheath structure spun yarn C is wound around a yarn tube 13 on a weight via an antinode ring 11 and a traveler 12. Even if the gripping positions of the cylinders 2 and 3 of the polyester cut-off spun yarn A and the animal hair fiber bundle B vary slightly from weight to weight, the delivery speeds of both are always constant. There is no risk that the properties of C will vary from weight to weight. Further, when the trumpet feeder 7 is swung in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1 as much as possible, the friction region of the front top main roller 5 with the animal hair fiber bundle B of the rubber cot coating is dispersed, and the rubber cot coating is early. Wear can be prevented. Although not shown, it is desirable that the yarn guide 14 swings in the axial direction of the front bottom main shaft 1 to reduce the wear of the rubber cot coating of the cylindrical front top sub roller 4.

The core-sheath structure spun yarn obtained as described above is made into twin yarns, woven and knitted yarns, dyed at any stage of top-yarn-anti-dyeing, and subjected to an arrangement step before being used in the apparel industry. Here, clothing such as suits, jackets, overcoats, vests, and skirts is cut and sewn, but suits are particularly preferable. This is because the garment using the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention has characteristics such as appropriate dignity, light weight, easy activity, toughness and long life, wrinkle resistance, easy care, and relatively low cost.

FIG. 4 is a front view of a men's suit according to an embodiment of the present invention. The men's suit 31 is a set of a suit composed of a jacket 32 and trousers 33, and has the same upper and lower color patterns. FIG. 5 is a front view of a women's suit according to another embodiment of the present invention. The women's suit 34 is a set of suits composed of a jacket 35 and a skirt 36, and has the same upper and lower color patterns. FIG. 6 is a front view of a women's suit according to still another embodiment of the present invention. The women's suit 37 is a set of a suit consisting of a jacket 38 and pants 39, and has the same upper and lower color patterns. In the above, it is a general name in the apparel industry that trousers are for men and skirts and pants are for women.

The suit can also use the twin yarns of the woven and knitted fabrics that make up the jacket and the twin yarns of the woven and knitted fabrics that make up the trousers / pants and / or the skirt. As an example, in the twin yarns of the woven and knitted fabrics that make up the jacket, one single yarn is a core-sheath structure yarn in which the core is a polyester cut-out spun yarn and the sheath contains animal hair fibers, and the other is a spun yarn containing animal hair fibers. And. The twin yarns of the woven and knitted fabrics constituting at least one selected from trousers / pants and skirts are preferably core-sheath structure yarns. In this way, trousers, pants, and skirts, which are worn more frequently than outerwear, are easily torn or frayed, easily wrinkled, easily lose pleats, and easily get dirty, can be reduced and can be washed at home. .. In addition, even if either of the twin threads is used, the upper and lower colors and patterns are the same, so that there is no sense of discomfort as a suit.

Hereinafter, a more specific description will be given with reference to Examples. The measurement methods in Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention are as follows.

(1) Textile strength: Measured according to JIS L 1096A method.

(2) Anti-pill property: Measured according to JIS L 1076A method.

(3) Texture: Measured according to the KES texture measurement method manufactured by Kato Tech.

(4) Flame retardancy (combustibility): Measured according to JIS L 1094A-4 alternative method (Annex 8).

(5) Other physical properties: Measured according to JIS or industry standards.

(Examples 1 and 2)

(1) Manufacture of core-sheath structure yarn Fine denier polyester (PET) tow manufactured by Trevra, Germany, is spun by traction, 175-meter count single yarn (denoted as 1/175, 57.1deci tex), number of twists. A spun yarn of 530 times / m (Z direction) was obtained. The single fiber fineness of the constituent fibers of this spun yarn was 1.0 deci tex, the fiber length was distributed in the range of 11 to 190 mm, and the average fiber length was 95 mm. This cut-off spun yarn A was supplied to the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 so as to have a core component of 34.3% by weight. On the other hand, wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) 65.2% by weight as animal hair fibers in the sheath, and Kuraray's “Kurakabo” (single fiber fineness 3.3 deci tex, square cut fiber) as antistatic fibers. An animal hair fiber bundle B blended with 0.5% by weight (length 70 mm) was prepared and supplied to the ring spinning machine shown in FIG. 1 at an overfeed rate of 11% so as to have a sheath component of 65.7% by weight, and a core sheath was provided. Structural spinning yarn C was obtained. The obtained yarn was a single yarn having a count of 60 meters (displayed as 1/60, 167 deci tex) and a twist number of 750 times / m (Z direction). The raw material ratio of the obtained core-sheath structure yarn was 65.2% by weight of wool, 34.3% by weight of polyester fiber, and 0.5% by weight of antistatic fiber.

(2) Production of Animal Hair Spinned Yarn 100% by weight of wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) was used as an animal hair fiber by a ring spinning machine to obtain animal hair spun yarn. The obtained yarn was a single yarn having a count of 60 meters (denoted as 1/60, 167 deci tex) and twisted 650 times / m (Z direction).

(3) Manufacture of twin yarn

(3-1) Single-eyed structure The core-sheath structure yarn and the animal hair spun yarn obtained as described above were twisted with an uptister at a twist number of 640 times / m (S direction) to obtain a twin yarn. A schematic cross-sectional view of this twin yarn is shown in FIG. 2 (A). The twin yarn 20 was composed of a core-sheath structure yarn 23 and an animal hair spun yarn 24, and the core-sheath structure yarn 23 had a polyester pruning yarn 21 arranged in the core and a wool fiber component arranged in the sheath. The black core portion (the shaded portion) in FIG. 2A is referred to as a one-eye structure as an eyeball. A woven fabric obtained by twin yarn having a one-eye structure is referred to as Example 1.

(3-2) Binocular Structure FIG. 2 (B) is a cross-sectional view of twin yarns of core-sheath structure yarns obtained as described above, and has an upzister twist number of 640 times / m (S direction). It was twisted to make a twin yarn. The twin yarn 25 was composed of two single yarns 23 having a core-sheath structure, and the core-sheath-structured yarn 23 had a polyester cut-through spun yarn 21 arranged in the core and a wool fiber component arranged in the sheath. The black core portion (shaded portion) in FIG. 2B is referred to as a binocular structure as an eyeball. Example 2 is a woven fabric obtained by twin yarns having a binocular structure.

(4) Dyeing Polyester cut-off spun yarn is colored black at the yarn stage, and animal hair fibers are top-dyed in several gray lines in a sliver state. It is elegant and will not get tired even if worn for many years, and the hue in color matching. Obtained stable and dignified frost.

(5) Woven Fabric Production The twin yarns shown in FIGS. 2 (A) to 2 (B) were used for the warp and weft, respectively, and a woven fabric having a basis weight and a yarn density shown in Table 1 was obtained with a 2/2 twill structure.

(6) Post-processing In order to impart flame retardancy to the above-mentioned woven fabric during the refining / finishing arrangement process of the standard method, Zapro processing was carried out using a counter-dyeing machine. In the Zapro processing, the woven fabric was immersed in an aqueous solution containing 11.1% owf of zircon hydrofluoric acid adjusted to pH 3 or less as a main component, and reacted at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes. By this processing, a metal complex compound was bonded to wool, and flame retardancy was imparted.

The physical characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1, the same as in Example 1 except that a normal pure wool twin yarn, that is, only two animal hair spun yarns 24 shown in FIG. 2 (A) were used to form a twin yarn without using a core-sheath structure yarn. Textile production and post-processing were carried out. The physical characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 2, 65% by weight of wool (average diameter 18.5 μm, average fiber length 76 mm) and polyester fiber (single fiber fineness 3.3 deci tex, bias cut fiber length 76/102 mm) without using core-sheath structural yarn. 34.5% by weight and 0.5% by weight of Kuraray's "Kurakabo" (single fiber fineness 3.3deci tex, square cut fiber length 70mm) as an antistatic fiber mixed with two blended spun yarns The textile production and post-processing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1. The physical characteristics of the obtained woven fabric are summarized in Table 1.

Next, the texture was measured by a KES texture measuring tester manufactured by Kato Tech. The results are summarized in Table 2.

The main physical characteristics of Tables 1 and 2 are as follows. The evaluation was as follows.

(1) Strong Tensile Strength: “A” was assigned when the warp [N] measured according to JIS L1096-8.14.1 (A method) was 550N or more, and “B” was assigned to less than 550N.

(2) Pilling Pilling: "A" for grades 4-5 and above, "B" for grades 3-4, and "C" for grades less than 3 measured according to JIS L1076-8.1.1 (A method). did.

(3) Texture When the THV measured by the KES texture measurement tester was 2.9 or more, it was set as "A", and when it was less than 2.9, it was set as "B".

(4) Pleatability
The thread opening angle measured according to JIS L1060-9.1.2 (A-2 method) was "A" when it was less than 60 °, "B" when it was 60 ° or more and less than 80 °, and "C" when it was 80 ° or more.

(5) Washing resistance
According to JIS L0217 (A-2 method), the dimensional change of [%] after 15 times of washing is "A" if it is less than -3.0%, and "B" if it is -3.0 or more and less than -6.0%. -6.0% or more was set as "C".

(6) Flame-retardant flammability test: JIS L 1091 (A-4 Annex 8) 1992 edition of vertical flame contact length 12 seconds carbonization length [cm] is less than 5 cm is "A", 5 cm or more and 20 cm Less than is "B", and 20 cm or more is "C".

The above results are summarized in Table 3.

As is clear from the results in Table 3, in Examples 1 and 2, the evaluation of each characteristic was B or higher, and the performance balance as a suit material was excellent. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 pure hair had a C rating for pleating and washing resistance, and although the folds could be removed immediately, it was difficult to iron and it was difficult to wash at home. In addition, Comparative Example 2 blended spinning has a C rating for pilling and flame retardancy, and the voluminous pills that occur shortly after the start of wearing cause significant deterioration in appearance and quality, making it unsuitable as a general suit material and flame retardant. It was confirmed that sex is not suitable as a security suit.

The woven fabrics obtained in Examples 1 and 2 were tailored to the suit shown in FIG. The suit is made of a one-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 1 for a jacket and trousers, and a one-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 1 for a jacket and a two-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 2. It was. As a result, it was confirmed that both suits have appropriate dignity, are lightweight and easy to work, are durable and long-lasting, are less likely to wrinkle, and are relatively inexpensive in easy care. In particular, the suit made of the one-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 1 and the trousers of the two-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 2 has the same upper and lower color patterns, so that there is no sense of discomfort as a suit. Absent. Furthermore, in particular, the suit made of the one-eyed twin-threaded woven fabric of Example 1 and the trousers of the two-eyed twin-threaded woven fabric of Example 2 is more likely to be torn or frayed than the outerwear. For trousers that are easy to get into, pleats are easy to disappear, and are easy to get dirty, these can be reduced and home washing was possible. As a result, it was confirmed that it is most suitable as a security suit.

(Example 3)
In Examples 1 and 2, the same procedure was carried out except that the flame retardant was not reduced by the thepro processing. The physical characteristics of the obtained woven fabric were the same as those in Tables 1 to 3 except for the evaluation C of flame retardancy. The obtained woven fabric was tailored to the suit shown in FIG. In particular, the suit made of the one-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 1 and the trousers of the two-eyed double-threaded woven fabric of Example 2 is durable, long-lasting, wrinkle-resistant, pleated, and household. It was also possible to wash. As a result, it was confirmed that it is suitable for uniforms for police officers, postal and transportation staff, school uniforms, corporate uniforms, and suits for ordinary people.

The garments obtained from the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be used not only for guard suits for the Imperial Guard, VIP guard SP (security police), and plainclothes detectives, but also for suits for firefighters, self-defense forces, passenger sailors, passenger plane pilots, etc. Suitable. In addition, because of its good washing resistance and pleating resistance, it is also suitable for uniforms for police officers, postal and transportation staff, school uniforms, corporate uniforms, and suits for ordinary people.

1. 1. Front bottom Main shaft 2, 3. Cylinder 4. Front top sub roller 5. Front top Main roller 6. Arbor 7. Trumpet feeder 8. Back roller 9. Draft apron 10. Snell wire 11. Anti-node ring 12. Traveler 13. Thread tube 14. Yarn guide 15. Front bottom Sub shaft roller 16. Drive belt 20. Twin thread 21. Polyester cut-out spun yarn 22. Wool fiber component 23. Core sheath structure thread 24. Animal hair spun yarn 31. Men's suit 32.35.38. Outerwear 33. Trousers 34.37. Women's suit 36. Skirt 39. Pants A. Polyester cut-off spun yarn B. Animal hair fiber bundle C. Core sheath structure thread

Claims (10)

It is a woven and knitted fabric for clothes whose main component is animal hair fiber.
The threads that make up the garment woven and knitted fabric are twin threads.
At least one single yarn of the twin yarns is a woven or knitted fabric for garments, wherein the core is a polyester cut-and-spun yarn and the sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers. The garment woven or knit according to claim 1, wherein the garment woven or knit has a carbonization length of 20 cm or less and has flame retardancy. The clothing according to claim 1 or 2, wherein one single yarn is the core-sheath structure yarn and the other single yarn is a spun yarn containing animal hair fibers, or both single yarns are the core-sheath structure yarns. Weaving and knitting. The twisting direction of the cut-through spun yarn (primary twist) and the twisting direction of the core-sheath structure yarn (primary twist) are the same, and the twisting direction of the twin yarn (secondary twist) is the twisting direction of the primary twist. The woven or knitted fabric for clothes according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is the opposite. The garment knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ratio of the animal hair of the twin yarn to the polyester fiber is 55 to 95% by weight of the animal hair fiber and 5 to 45% by weight of the polyester fiber. The garment woven or knit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising an antistatic fiber in the twin yarn. The garment woven or knit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the animal hair fiber is wool. A garment using the garment knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
The garment is a garment characterized by being a suit. In the twin yarns of the woven fabric constituting the jacket of the suit, one single yarn is a core-sheathed spun yarn having a polyester core, the sheath is a core-sheath structure yarn containing animal hair fibers, and the other single yarn is animal hair. It is a spun yarn made of fibers.
The garment according to claim 8, wherein the twin yarns of the woven fabric constituting at least one selected from the pants, pants, and skirt of the suit are the core-sheath structure yarns. It is a yarn made by twisting two single yarns.
Of the two single yarns, at least one single yarn is a core-sheath structure yarn having a core portion of a draw-spun yarn and a sheath portion containing animal hair fibers.
A thread characterized in that the strength of the core portion is higher than the strength of the sheath portion.

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