JP2006083489A - Latently crimpable polyester conjugate fiber filament yarn, woven/knitted fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide latently crimpable polyester conjugate fiber filament yarn capable of giving woven/knitted fabric good in touch feeling such as stretchability, along with sufficiently preventing developing warp and/or weft striations on the surface of the fabric without the need of any special actions such as warp-dispersing arrangement in the case of woven fabric or filament yarn selection in the case of knitted fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The latently crimpable polyester conjugate fiber filament yarn is such that two kinds of polyester polymers differing in thermal shrinkage from each other are conjugated with each other in parallel type or eccentric sheath/core type. In the filament yarn, individual latently crimpable polyester conjugate fibers are mutually sized and present three-dimensionally spiral actual crimps with an actual crimp percentage(X) of 10.0-40.0%. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn, a woven or knitted fabric using the yarn, and a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric.

  Conventionally, as a woven or knitted fabric excellent in stretchability, a woven or knitted fabric using a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn is known. A typical example of latently crimpable polyester composite fiber yarns is a yarn made of composite fibers in which two types of polyester polymers with different heat shrinkage properties are joined in parallel. Expresses crimps.

  As a method of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric excellent in stretchability using such a yarn, a method of subjecting the composite fiber yarn to a relaxation treatment and then knitting and knitting to obtain a desired woven or knitted fabric (for example, Patent Documents) 1), and a method of obtaining a desired woven or knitted fabric after obtaining a raw machine using the above-mentioned composite fiber yarn and then subjecting the raw machine to a post-processing including a relaxation process (see, for example, Patent Document 2). ing.

The woven or knitted fabric obtained by these methods not only has excellent stretch properties, but also has a favorable texture as a woven or knitted fabric for clothing. In these woven and knitted fabrics, the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn has such a characteristic by exhibiting a hollow structure of a hollow shape.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-81069 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-43835

  In the woven or knitted fabric, when a portion having a different crimp form is generated due to variation in crimp expression in post-processing, there is a problem that the portion appears as a so-called warp and / or weft on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

  In order to improve this problem, in the woven fabric, when warper and / or beaming is performed in the warp preparation step, a means is adopted in which warp yarns are dispersed to disperse and arrange the warp yarns, and the above problem is improved by an illusion.

  On the other hand, in the knitted fabric, unlike the woven fabric, there is no means to disperse and arrange the yarns. Therefore, a cylindrical knitted sample is prepared for every used yarn for every yarn used, and a dyeing test is performed. The above problem is improved by selecting only the yarns for use in knitting.

  However, such yarn selection is merely a selection of the yarn based only on the color difference considering the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn, and does not consider the influence of the tension in the post-processing, The above problem cannot be solved sufficiently. The reason for this is that the knitted fabric is structurally rough in terms of the density of the yarns, so it is easily affected by tension, and in particular, it passes through a process in which a large tension is applied near the ears, such as heat setting (intermediate set, finishing set) in post-processing. Then, the crimp of the composite fiber yarn in the vicinity of the ear part is easily heat-set in a state where the coil diameter is smaller than that of the ground part. For this reason, a difference occurs in the crimped shape of the composite fiber between the ground portion and the vicinity of the ear portion, so that a so-called weft step occurs. In addition, performing yarn selection at each knitting also involves a problem of significantly reducing production efficiency.

  In view of such a current situation, the present invention is capable of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric having excellent texture such as stretchability, and at the same time, without requiring special measures such as dispersive arrangement of warps and selection of yarns. Another object of the present invention is to provide a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn capable of sufficiently preventing warp and / or weft from occurring on the surface of a woven or knitted fabric. Another object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric having excellent texture such as stretchability and excellent surface quality, and to provide a method for easily producing such a woven or knitted fabric.

  The present invention can solve the above-mentioned problems. First, a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn in which two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. In the strip, the individual crimped polyester composite fibers are converged, and the apparent crimp rate (X) represented by the following formula (1) is 10.0 to 40.0%. The gist is a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn characterized by crimping.

  The gist of the present invention is, secondly, a woven or knitted fabric characterized by using the above-described latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn.

  Thirdly, a bobbin provided with a cushioning material on the body while applying a twisted yarn (α) of 8000 to 25000 represented by the following formula (2) to the above-described latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn. After winding, 65-85 ° C. × 30-45 minutes, and then weaving and knitting using the resulting twisted yarn, 120-135 ° C. relaxation treatment, and then dyeing, finishing set and The gist of the method for producing the woven or knitted fabric is characterized by performing steam relaxation.

  The latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn of the present invention is used for woven and knitted fabrics, and at the same time, a woven or knitted fabric excellent in texture such as stretchability, firmness and firmness, and a feeling of swelling is required, and requires special labor. Therefore, warp and / or wefts can be sufficiently prevented from occurring on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. And the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention using this yarn is excellent in the texture such as stretchability, firmness and firmness and swelling, and has good surface quality with few defects such as warps and wefts. And is particularly suitable for clothing applications. Moreover, according to the method for producing a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, such an excellent woven or knitted fabric can be easily obtained.

  The latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as the composite fiber yarn of the present invention) has two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties, that is, heat shrinkability is relatively high. A multifilament yarn comprising a latently crimpable polyester composite fiber in which a low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer and a high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer having relatively high heat-shrink properties are joined in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. is there.

  In the present invention, the fact that the polyester polymer has different heat shrinkage properties specifically means that the heat shrinkage rate is different when the wet heat treatment is performed in a state where the polyester polymer is formed. That is, the composite fiber constituting the composite fiber yarn of the present invention has a structure in which two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties formed into a fibrous shape are joined in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. When it is wet-heat treated in post-processing, a difference in thermal shrinkage occurs between both polyester polymers, and a strong and fine crimp in a three-dimensional spiral shape appears.

  The polyester polymer used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and a conventionally known fiber-forming polyester polymer can be arbitrarily selected and used. Specifically, a homopolyethylene terephthalate polymer (hereinafter, polyethylene terephthalate is abbreviated as PET) whose repeating units are substantially all ethylene terephthalate can be used. Also, a copolymerized PET polymer in which 85% or more of all repeating units are ethylene terephthalate and other components are copolymerized can be used. Examples of the copolymer component in such a copolymerized PET polymer include isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane, and the like. In particular, it is preferable to use 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as a copolymerization component because the composite fiber yarn of the present invention becomes a cation dyeable yarn and increases the commercial value.

  In the present invention, two types of polyester polymers having different heat-shrinkability characteristics are selected from the polyester polymers listed above, but the two types are the same type of polymers, for example, heat-shrink characteristics. Different homo-PET polymers may be used, and in such a case, it can be said that these are two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability characteristics.

  The selection of two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability from the same type of polyester polymer can be achieved by making the intrinsic viscosity different. For example, by selecting homo-PET polymers having a difference in intrinsic viscosity of 0.10 to 0.25, a homo-PET polymer having a relatively lower intrinsic viscosity is converted into a low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer, intrinsic viscosity. The higher homo-PET polymer can be used as the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer. In this case, if the difference in intrinsic viscosity is less than 0.10, the crimp expression of the composite fiber tends to be insufficient. On the other hand, if the difference in intrinsic viscosity exceeds 0.25, the expression of crimp becomes excessive and the quality is deteriorated. Since it tends to be damaged, it is not preferable.

  Also, when different polyester polymers are used, the heat shrinkability may be different even if the intrinsic viscosity is the same, so there is no need to provide a difference in the intrinsic viscosity, and the intrinsic viscosity may be lower in the high heat shrinkable polyester polymer. . For example, a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing at least one of isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane as a high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer. When a polymerized PET polymer is used and a homo-PET polymer is used as a low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer, since the thermal shrinkage rate of the copolymerized PET polymer is relatively high, the intrinsic viscosity of any polyester polymer is relatively high. The intrinsic viscosity difference is preferably about 0.02 to 0.10.

  In addition, when using the same kind of polymers as described above, in any case where different kinds of polymers are used, the intrinsic viscosity of the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer is set to 0.35 to 0.35 in consideration of the yarn forming property and the fiber properties. It is preferable to set it in the range of 0.70 and set the intrinsic viscosity of the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer in the range of 0.50 to 0.80.

  In addition, as the intrinsic viscosity, a value measured at a temperature of 20 ° C. using an Ubbelohde viscometer, using an equal mass mixture of phenol and ethane tetrachloride as a solvent, is employed.

  As described above, the conjugate fiber constituting the conjugate fiber yarn of the present invention is a fiber obtained by joining two kinds of polyester polymers in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. It is preferable that the two polymers are continuously joined in the fiber longitudinal direction so that the joining line of the two polymers in FIG. When such a joining form is adopted, the three-dimensional spiral crimp of the composite fiber becomes stronger and finer after post-processing, and the texture such as stretchability, firmness, firmness and swelling of the woven or knitted fabric is further enhanced. This is preferable.

  Moreover, it is preferable that it is 40: 60-60: 40 as mass ratio of the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer and high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer joined in the said composite fiber. If the mass ratio is out of the above range, the composite fiber tends not to be sufficiently crimped in post-processing, which is not preferable.

  The composite fiber may contain a matting agent, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a pigment, a flame retardant, an antibacterial agent, or a conductivity imparting agent as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

  The fineness in the composite fiber yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the single yarn fineness is preferably 1 to 10 dtex, and the total fineness is preferably 33 to 330 dtex. By selecting, it can use suitably for the woven or knitted fabric for clothing.

  In the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, it is important that the individual composite fibers converge along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. If the composite fibers are scattered without converging, the fibers are more scattered when crimping is developed by post-processing, and it is inevitable that the crimped state will be disturbed, and the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is unavoidable. This is because a large number of meridians and / or wefts are generated.

  In addition, it is important that the composite fiber yarn of the present invention has a latent crimp and at the same time has a three-dimensional spiral-like manifest crimp. This actual crimp is mainly caused by a difference in heat shrinkage between the two types of polyester polymers constituting the composite fiber, and occurs in the process of spinning, stretching, etc. According to the present invention, however, there is a close relationship between the latent crimpable crimp rate of the present invention and the crimp generated by post-processing (that is, the one generated by crimping the latent crimp). That is, the higher the actual crimp rate, the greater the crimp generated by post-processing, which improves the stretchability of the woven or knitted fabric, but at the same time increases the variation in the crimp and lowers the quality of the woven or knitted fabric. The present inventors have found out. Thus, as a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have invented the composite fiber yarn of the present invention that can achieve both excellent stretchability and good quality in a woven or knitted fabric by setting the above-described actual crimp rate within a certain range. It was.

  That is, with respect to the three-dimensional spiral-like manifest crimps of the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn of the present invention, the manifest crimp rate (X) represented by the following formula (1) is 10.0 to 40.0%. Need to be. The actual crimp rate is an index representing the size of the actual crimp, and can quantitatively represent how much the thread form is spiraled compared to a normal flat yarn. The larger the contraction rate, the more obvious crimps are generated with a large coil diameter and / or a short coil pitch.

In determining the above-described actual crimp rate, the load (or tension) of 90.91 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex applied to the yarn when measuring the above L ₀ and L ₁ is that the fiber is plastically deformed. The yarn is set so as to be stretched in a state in which the yarn is not substantially crimped within a range where no wrinkle occurs. Similarly, the load of 1.67 × 10 ⁻⁴ cN / dtex is set so that the crimped shape is maintained and the yarn is fixed to the extent that the position is not shifted by the wind pressure of the outside air.

  In the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, if the above-described actual crimp rate is less than 10.0%, the expression of crimp by post-processing is reduced, so that the stretchability, elasticity and firmness when used as a woven or knitted fabric are obtained. Or the texture such as the feeling of swelling cannot be imparted sufficiently. On the other hand, when the actual crimp rate exceeds 40.0%, warps and / or wefts are generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

  Here, according to the knowledge of the present inventors, there are the following two reasons that warps and / or wefts are generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric when the actual crimp rate is too large. The first reason is that the balance between the unwinding amount and the feeding amount of the package is lost, and the yarn feeding tension greatly fluctuates. That is, when the composite fiber yarn is unwound from the package on which the composite fiber yarn is wound, it becomes easy to be over-resolved due to the actual crimp. As a result, the balance between the unwinding amount and the delivery amount of the package is lost, and the yarn supply tension of the yarn greatly fluctuates during production of the raw machine. Then, when the obtained raw machine is put into post-processing to develop the crimps that are latent in the composite fiber yarn, the crimped shape becomes non-uniform in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the warp on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric And / or wefts will occur.

  As a second reason, as described above, the larger the actual crimp rate, the larger the crimp generated by post-processing (the latent crimp), but the coil pitch of the greatly generated crimp is very high. During the heat set (intermediate set, finish set), which is usually applied to woven or knitted fabrics using latent crimpable yarns, the composite fiber yarns between the ground and the ears A difference is likely to occur in the crimped shape. In other words, in the heat set, the tension applied to the vicinity of the ear due to the weight of the woven or knitted fabric is inevitably slightly larger than the tension applied to the ground, but if the coil pitch is very short, even a slight tension difference There is a non-negligible difference in the degree to which the yarn is stretched. Therefore, the crimped shape of the composite fiber yarn is greatly different between the ground portion and the vicinity of the ear portion, and wefts are generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.

  In the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, the actual crimp rate is within a predetermined range depending on the combination of the polyester polymer in the composite fiber and the heat treatment temperature during drawing and the drawn yarn winding when the undrawn yarn is drawn. This is possible by adjusting the tension. For example, if the heat treatment temperature during stretching is set high, the difference in thermal shrinkage between the polyester polymers is reduced, so that the actual crimp rate can be reduced. The heat treatment temperature during stretching can be appropriately adjusted depending on the first roller surface temperature and the hot plate temperature. The first roller surface temperature is preferably 75 to 90 ° C, and the hot plate temperature is preferably 160 to 175 ° C.

For example, if the drawn yarn winding tension is set high, the elastic recovery rate of the yarn increases, so that the actual crimp rate can be increased. The drawn yarn winding tension can be appropriately adjusted according to the traveler mass, the winding speed, or the spindle rotation speed at the time of drawing the drawn yarn. The traveler mass (in terms of drawn yarn) is 6.8 × 10 ^{−4 to} 13. 6 × 10 ⁻⁴ g / dtex and the winding speed is preferably 500 to 800 m / min. The initial spindle rotation speed is preferably 5000 to 7000 rpm when the total fineness of the composite fiber yarn (in terms of drawn yarn) is less than 84 dtex, and 6000 to 8000 rpm when it is 84 dtex or more.

  Next, a method for producing the composite fiber yarn of the present invention will be described.

  In order to produce the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, first, using an ordinary composite spinning type melt spinning machine, etc., the two kinds of polyester polymers described above are joined together so as to be joined in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. Then, it is discharged from the same spinning hole and melt-spun. In this case, the spinning temperature is appropriately selected depending on the melting temperature of each polyester polymer, but is usually preferably 280 to 310 ° C.

  The spun yarn is subsequently cooled and solidified, and then a spinning oil agent is applied, the composite fibers are converged, and taken up at a yarn speed of 1000 to 4000 m / min.

  Then, the wound yarn is once wound as an unstretched yarn and then heat-stretched by a stretching machine, or continuously stretched without winding the taken-up yarn. A fiber yarn can be obtained.

  The draw ratio may be set so that the residual elongation of the composite fiber yarn after drawing is in the range of 15 to 40% according to the residual elongation of the undrawn yarn at the time of drawing. preferable. If the residual elongation is less than 15%, the yarn tends to be broken at the time of drawing, whereas if it exceeds 40%, the composite fiber tends not to be sufficiently crimped.

  Next, a woven or knitted fabric using the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to as the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention) will be described.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is formed by using the above-described composite fiber yarn of the present invention. In order to further enhance the effects of the invention, the composite fiber of the present invention is added to 40% by mass or more of the constituent yarn. It is preferable that a yarn is used.

  In addition, when using yarn other than the composite fiber yarn of the present invention in combination, the method for using the yarn is not particularly limited. For example, the yarns such as drawing, twisting, and blending are combined. The method or a method of combining in the case of weaving and knitting such as union knitting and arrangement can be adopted.

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the composite fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably in a twisted state. In this case, the twist coefficient (α) represented by the following formula (2) is 10,000 to 34,000. Is preferred.

  When the twisting coefficient (α) is within this range, the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes smooth, and anti-pilling properties are imparted to the woven or knitted fabric, and textures such as a firmness, firmness, and swelling are also preferable.

  In addition, about the twist direction, it may be either S twist or Z twist.

  Further, the structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, in the case of a woven fabric, a structure having a small number of tissue points in one complete structure, such as five satin or double structure, is a stretch of the woven fabric. From the viewpoint of improving the properties.

  Next, a method for producing the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.

  In order to produce the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention using the composite fiber yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to twist the composite fiber yarn of the present invention. In order to apply twisting, a double twister or a ring-type twisting machine may be used. If a double twister is used in the middle to strong twisting area and a ring twisting machine is used in the sweet-twisting area, productivity and quality are improved. preferable.

  The twist coefficient in the case of twisting the composite fiber yarn as described above is not particularly limited, but when twisted so that the twist coefficient (α) shown in the following formula (2) is 8000 to 25000, weaving This is preferable because the surface of the knitted fabric becomes smooth, anti-pilling properties are imparted to the woven knitted fabric, and textures such as a firmness, firmness and swelling are also improved.

  In addition, since the twist coefficient of the composite fiber yarn in the woven or knitted fabric finally obtained is improved by heat shrinkage and crimp expression of the composite fiber yarn in post-processing, the twist coefficient is 8000 to 25000 as described above. If twisted yarn is applied, the twist coefficient in the woven or knitted fabric finally obtained through post-processing is 10,000 to 34,000.

  When the yarn twisted as described above is wound around a bobbin to form a package, it is wound around a bobbin provided with a cushioning material on the body for the purpose of uniforming heat shrinkage of the yarn in the package. It is preferable. In a normal twisted composite fiber yarn package, the yarn wound around the inner layer part is hindered from heat shrinkage due to set heat due to the bobbin body as a barrier, so the yarn wound around the part other than the inner layer Differences in latent crimpability occur due to the difference in heat shrinkage between the strips. For this reason, when the woven or knitted fabric is post-processed, the portion constituted by the yarn wound around the inner layer portion is larger than the portion constituted by the yarn wound around the portion other than the inner layer. A phenomenon of heat shrinkage occurs, which may appear as warps or weft steps on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. Therefore, by using a bobbin provided with a cushioning material on the body and winding the yarn from above the cushioning material, the thermal contraction of the yarn in the package is made uniform, so that the warp or the It is possible to prevent the occurrence of a weft.

  The material of the cushioning material is not particularly limited as long as it does not substantially inhibit the heat shrinkage of the composite fiber yarn. For example, a rubber sheet or cardboard paper is preferably used.

  The composite fiber yarn twisted and wound as described above is preferably provided with a twist set using a vacuum yarn steamer or the like in order to suppress the occurrence of chatter. As a condition of this twist set, it is preferable to carry out at a temperature of 65-85 degreeC over 30-45 minutes. By setting the condition within this range, it is preferable that the occurrence of chatter during weaving and knitting is moderately suppressed, and the composite fiber yarn can sufficiently develop crimping while being thermally contracted in post-processing after weaving and knitting. .

  The yarn set as described above and twisted and set is used for weaving. The loom or knitting machine used for weaving and knitting is not particularly limited. However, from the viewpoint of the cost of the loom, the loom having a width of 190 cm or more is preferable because the processing shrinkage of the knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention is large.

  After weaving and knitting, the obtained raw machine is post-processed. As a post-processing step, it is preferable to first perform a relaxation process, and then perform dyeing, finishing set and steam relaxation.

  Regarding the temperature of the relaxation treatment, the relaxation temperature of a general polyester woven or knitted fabric is about 100 to 115 ° C. However, in the present invention, the relaxation temperature is usually set to suppress the occurrence of warps or wefts on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. It is preferable to set it at 120 to 135 ° C., which is higher than the above. When the relaxation temperature is within this range, the composite fiber yarn is sufficiently crimped while being thermally contracted, which is preferable in that the texture of the woven or knitted fabric can be improved. Moreover, as dyeing | staining temperature, about 120-135 degreeC is preferable like the general dyeing | staining using a disperse dye.

  Then, the finishing set to be performed may be carried out using a pin tenter or the like by a conventional method, and the setting temperature is preferably about 170 to 180 ° C. as in the case of a general polyester woven or knitted fabric.

  In this finishing set, the width of the woven or knitted fabric is 1.5 to 10.0% wider than the final target value, and the length of the woven or knitted fabric is 5.0 to 10.0 higher than the final target value. It is preferable to set it so that it becomes longer by%. This is because after the finishing set, the woven or knitted fabric is subjected to steam relaxation to further develop the crimp of the composite fiber yarn.

  The steam relaxation after the finishing set is preferably performed by spraying steam at 95 to 100 ° C. for 10 to 40 seconds without applying tension to the woven or knitted fabric. By applying this steam relaxation, the crimped shape of the composite fiber yarn is more uniform, so the occurrence of warps and / or wefts can be suppressed, and the texture of the woven or knitted fabric can be improved. Furthermore, as an incidental effect, the iron shrinkage rate and the washing shrinkage rate of the woven or knitted fabric can be reduced.

  In order to further improve the commercial value of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, for example, to improve dimensional stability, it is preferable to apply an intermediate set to the woven or knitted fabric after the relaxation treatment, and to improve the soft feeling. In such a case, it is preferable to perform alkali weight reduction after the relaxation treatment.

  Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. In addition, the evaluation method of the thread | yarn in a Example and a comparative example and a woven / knitted fabric is as follows.

1. After 200 mg of a polyester chip is put into an intrinsic viscosity Erlenmeyer flask, 40 mL of an equal mass mixture of phenol and ethane tetrachloride is added to the Erlenmeyer flask using a whole pipette, and the chip is dissolved by heating. It cools immediately after melt | dissolution, It measures by the extrapolation method at the temperature of 20 degreeC using an Ubbelohde type viscometer.

2. Realized crimp rate (X)
While applying a tension of 90.91 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex to the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn, it is wound 10 times on a measuring machine having a circumference of 1.125 m to form a cassette, and both ends of the cassette are tied. The load is left with a load of 1.67 × 10 ⁻⁴ cN / dtex applied to the case, and the length (L ₁ ) at the time of standing for 30 minutes is measured. Next, the load is changed from 1.67 × 10 ⁻⁴ cN / dtex to 90.91 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex, and the length (L ₀ ) is immediately measured. Then, the actual crimp rate (X) is calculated based on the following formula (1).

3. With respect to the woven or knitted fabric 50 m obtained in the evaluation examples and comparative examples for generating the weft steps, the number of weft steps was counted visually using an inclined surface type inspection machine having a matte blackboard as the inspection plate surface. At this time, artificial light (white light) having an illuminance of 1200 lux is incident on the surface to be inspected at right angles, and the woven or knitted fabric is moved at a cloth speed of 10 m / min while applying tension to the woven or knitted fabric so that no winding wrinkles are generated. The number of latitudes was counted only for latitudes longer than 2 cm. Based on the number of latitudes thus counted, evaluation was performed in three stages A to C according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: Number of latitude steps 5 or less B: Number of latitude steps 6-8
C: 9 or more latitude steps

4). Texture Evaluation The textures of the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were evaluated on a scale of 1 to 5 by a sensory test with 20 panelists. As an evaluation standard, the higher the number of grades, the better the performance, and grade 3 or higher was accepted.
Example 1

  As the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer constituting the composite fiber, PET is mainly used, and 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane (hereinafter abbreviated as BP-A / EO) as a copolymerization component. ) Was used, and a copolymerized PET polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.66 and containing 4.0 mol% of all repeating units and 5.0 mol% of isophthalic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as IPA) was used. On the other hand, a homo-PET polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 was used as the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer. Then, an equal mass of both polyester polymers is supplied to a compound spinning type melt extruder, melted at a spinning temperature of 295 ° C., and spun out in a state where both polyester polymers are joined in parallel from a spinneret having 24 spinning holes, Cooled and solidified. Thereafter, the individual fibers were converged while applying a spinning oil, and wound as an undrawn yarn of 174 dtex / 24f through a take-up roller having a surface speed of 3300 m / min. Subsequently, the undrawn yarn was supplied to a drawing machine and drawn under the conditions shown in Table 1 below to obtain a latently crimped polyester composite fiber yarn of 110 dtex / 24f of the present invention. The obtained composite fiber yarn had three-dimensional spiral-like crimps while the individual composite fibers converged.

  Next, after winding the composite fiber yarn of the present invention obtained above with a pirn winder (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., No. 303 type), a double twister (Murata Kikai Co., Ltd., No 310C type) The twisted yarn of S twist 1500T / M (equivalent to twist coefficient α = 15732) was applied. In addition, the bobbin used for winding the twisted yarn used a metal cylinder in which a corrugated cardboard having a thickness of 4 mm was wound around the body as a cushioning material. Subsequently, the twisted set of 80 ° C. × 40 minutes was applied to the twisted yarn.

  Using the composite yarn with the twisted yarn and twisted set as described above alone, with a circular knitting machine (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) having a needle density of 26 / 2.54 cm and a hook diameter of 84 cm The organization of the interlocking organization was organized. Next, this living machine was subjected to a relaxation treatment of 130 ° C. × 30 minutes, then subjected to an intermediate set of 180 ° C. × 40 seconds, and further dyed at 130 ° C. × 30 minutes. Then, the finishing set of 170 degreeC x 40 second was given with the pin tenter. In finishing setting, the length of the knitted fabric was set to be 7.0% longer than the final target value, and the width was set to be 5.0% wider than the final target value.

Then, the woven or knitted fabric after the finishing set is subjected to a steam relaxation treatment by spraying steam at 98 ° C. for 20 seconds without applying a tension, using a steam relaxer (manufactured by Kokokoki Co., Ltd.). Knitted fabric was obtained.
(Example 2)

The high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer constituting the composite fiber is mainly composed of PET and contains 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as SIP) as a copolymerization component with respect to all repeating units. The same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that a copolymerized PET polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.57 was used, and that the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer was a homo-PET polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64. A woven or knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
(Example 3)

Other than using a homo-PET polymer with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 as the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer constituting the composite fiber, and using a homo-PET polymer with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.45 as the low-heat-shrinkable polyester polymer Was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
(Comparative Example 1)

In undrawn yarn drawing, the first roller surface temperature was changed to 80 ° C., the traveler mass was changed to 27.3 × 10 ⁻⁴ g / dtex (0.3 g), and the initial spindle rotation speed was changed to 8500 rpm. A woven or knitted fabric for comparison was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
(Comparative Example 2)

As the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer constituting the composite fiber, the main component is PET, and BP-A / EO as a copolymerization component is 6.0 mol% with respect to all repeating units, and IPA is also contained in 4.0 mol%. A comparative woven or knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a copolymerized PET polymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.73 was used.
(Comparative Example 3)

A woven or knitted fabric for comparison was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the surface temperature of the first roller was changed to 97 ° C. in the drawing of the undrawn yarn.
(Comparative Example 4)

A woven or knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3 except that the homo-PET polymer used for the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer was changed to one having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60.
Table 1 below shows the properties of the polyester polymer, the undrawn yarn drawing conditions, the apparent crimp rate of the obtained yarn, and the texture and weft generation evaluation results of the woven and knitted fabrics in the above Examples and Comparative Examples.

  As can be seen from the results in Table 1, the woven or knitted fabric (Examples 1 to 3) using the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn of the present invention has low weft steps, and stretch properties and the like. The texture was also excellent.

  On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since the apparent crimp rate of the composite fiber yarn was too large, many wefts were generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. This is because the first roller surface temperature is slightly low, the initial spindle rotation speed is high and the traveler mass is heavy, that is, the heat treatment temperature during drawing is slightly low and the drawn yarn winding tension is high.

  Also in Comparative Example 2, since the apparent crimp rate of the composite fiber yarn was too large, a large number of weft steps were generated on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. This is because the difference between the intrinsic viscosity of the copolymerized PET polymer used as the high heat-shrinkable polyester polymer and the intrinsic viscosity of the homo-PET polymer used as the low heat-shrinkable polyester polymer was too large.

  In Comparative Example 3, the actual crimp rate of the composite fiber yarn was too small, so that the woven or knitted fabric lacked a texture such as stretchability. This is because the first roller surface temperature is high, that is, the heat treatment temperature during stretching is high.

  Also in Comparative Example 4, since the apparent crimp rate of the composite fiber yarn was too small, the woven or knitted fabric lacked the texture such as stretchability. This is because the two polyester polymers constituting the composite fiber have the same composition, and the difference in intrinsic viscosity between the two polymers was small.

Claims (3)

In the latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn in which two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties are joined in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type, the individual crimped polyester composite fibers converge, A latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn characterized by exhibiting a three-dimensional spiral-like manifest crimp with an apparent crimp rate (X) of 10.0 to 40.0% represented by the following formula (1) Article.
  A woven or knitted fabric comprising the latently crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn according to claim 1. The latent crimpable polyester composite fiber yarn according to claim 1 is wound on a bobbin having a body provided with a cushioning material while being twisted with a twist coefficient (α) of 8000 to 25000 represented by the following formula (2). And then weaving and knitting using the obtained twisted yarn, and then applying a relaxation treatment at 120 to 135 ° C, followed by dyeing, finishing set and steam relaxation The method for producing a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 2, wherein: