JP2003336167A - Polyester fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a polyester fabric having aesthetic effect with a mixture of transparent feeling and opaque feeling by combining common alkali reduction and cationic dyeing techniques. <P>SOLUTION: The polyester fabric comprises sheath/core type conjugate polyester fibers where the sheath component consists of a cationic dye-dyeable polyester higher in alkali reduction rate than the core component and the core component consists of a cationic dye-nondyeable polyester, wherein the sheath component is partly removed. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester cloth in which transparent parts are scattered. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester cloth in which a sheath component is partially removed by an alkali weight reduction treatment after weaving and knitting using a core-sheath composite polyester fiber.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fiber is widely used as a cloth material for clothes by taking advantage of its excellent characteristics. In recent years, with the diversification, high quality, and individualization of clothing life, attempts have been made to develop a complex hue and color change brought about by the irregularity of the physical properties of a polyester fiber cloth. For example, JP-A-7-173766 discloses a polyester polymer whose core contains 0.4% by weight or more of fine particles having a refractive index of 1.6 or more and which is not dyed with a cationic dye, and whose sheath is dyeable with a cationic dye. After weaving and knitting using the core-sheath composite polyester fiber,
A method for obtaining a polyester cloth in which the color lightness is partially changed by partially removing the sheath by alkali reduction and rubbing is disclosed. The surface of the polyester cloth expresses a specific visual sensation, which is similar to a jeans surface, that is, a worn-out feeling, but there are spots that can be seen through, and aesthetics in which transparency and opacity are mixed are not realized. In this way, in an attempt to develop a change in hue and color brightness in a fabric made of polyester fiber, a polyester fabric having an aesthetic property in which transparency and opacity are mixed has not yet been proposed. Is.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made against the background of the above-mentioned prior art, and an object thereof is to provide a polyester fabric having an aesthetic property in which transparency and opacity are mixed.

[0004]

According to the research by the present inventor, the above-mentioned problem is that "the sheath component is made of polyester dyeable with a cationic dye and has a faster alkali weight loss rate than the core component, and the core component is It is found that the fabric is mainly composed of a core-sheath composite polyester fiber made of polyester that is not dyed with a cationic dye, and the sheath component is partially removed. " .

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below. The polyester used in the present invention is a polyester in which 85 mol% or more, and preferably 95 mol% or more of all repeating units are ethylene terephthalate. A small amount of components other than the terephthalic acid component and ethylene glycol component (usually 1 for the terephthalic acid component)
(5 mol% or less) copolymerized.

The polyester used for the sheath component is 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and its ester derivative,
It is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 5-phosphonium sulfoisophthalic acid and its ester derivative, sodium p-hydroxyethoxybenzenesulfonate, and the like. Among them, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid can be preferably used as the copolymerization component. The copolymerization amount of such components is preferably 0.5 to 15 mol%, and more preferably 1 to 5 mol%.

The sheath component made of polyester copolymerized with the above components can be preferentially dissolved and removed from the surface of the composite polyester fiber by an alkali treatment in an arbitrary ratio. That is, the alkali treatment can easily reveal the state in which the yarn diameter of the composite polyester fiber is reduced and the core portion is mainly exposed on the surface. Furthermore, the untreated part and the residual sheath component after alkali treatment are
The fabric is selectively dyed with a cationic dye, and the difference in transparency from the core is strengthened, and the fabric as a whole exhibits an aesthetic appearance in which transparency and opacity are mixed.

In the present invention, as an index of the alkali weight loss rate of polyester, 84 dtex / 24 film produced by spinning under constant spinning and drawing conditions (see Example 1) is used.
The nt polyester stretched yarn was dipped in a 35 g / L caustic soda solution, and the polyester stretched yarn weight loss rate (% / 30 min) when treated for 30 min in the boiling state was used. As the sheath component, polyester having an alkali weight loss rate of 15% or more is preferable. For example, the copolymerization amount is 0.5
When it is less than mol%, the alkali weight loss rate is less than 15%, and the alkali weight loss rate for selectively dissolving the sheath component is often insufficient. When the copolymerization amount exceeds 15 mol%, the melt viscosity of the polymer tends to increase, and it is often difficult to stably form a yarn.

On the other hand, as the core component, the alkali weight loss rate is faster than that of the sheath component, more preferably the alkali weight loss rate is 15%.
Less than polyester that is non-staining to the cationic dye is used.
Thus, after the alkali reduction treatment, the core component is allowed to remain mainly, and when dyed with a cationic dye, the difference in transparency between the residual sheath component and the untreated peripheral portion becomes larger.

Further, the content of fine particles having a refractive index of 1.6 or more in the core component polyester is 0.4% by weight based on the weight.
The following is preferable. When the content of the fine particles is 0.4% by weight or less, the difference in transparency between the residual sheath component and the untreated peripheral portion becomes larger, and the transparency and opacity become stronger.

The cross-sectional shape of the core-sheath composite polyester fiber of the present invention is a normal-core sheath type, an eccentric sheath type, or a multi-core sheath type even if a part of the core is exposed. It may be present, but it is not particularly limited, but in view of the stability of yarn production, a positive core sheath type is preferable. The cross-section ratio of the core-sheath in this case is 60: 4
It is preferably from 0 to 20:80. 60% core component
When it exceeds, the yarn diameter after dissolving the sheath component becomes large, and the difference in transparency from the untreated peripheral portion decreases. On the other hand, when the content of the core component is less than 20%, the yarn strength after dissolution is lowered and the tenacity of the cloth is often lowered.

Further, although the composite polyester fiber of the present invention can have any fineness, it has a single yarn fineness of 1.5.
An appropriate value is about 6.0 dtex.

The form of the yarn may be a uniform ordinary drawn yarn, an uneven drawn yarn or a false twisted yarn. Further, the core-sheath composite polyester fiber of the present invention may be used as a single yarn or as a part of a component of a two-layer structure yarn. Depending on the purpose, twisting may be performed before weaving and knitting.

The polyester cloth of the present invention can be obtained by ordinary weaving and weaving. A plain woven or knitted structure is preferable to the cloth in order to develop a transparent difference from the untreated peripheral portion, rather than the multilayered cloth structure.

In the cloth of the present invention, the cloth made of the above-mentioned composite fiber is subjected to, for example, a partial alkali weight reduction treatment, whereby the sheath component is mainly weight-removed and the core portion is partially exposed on the surface of the composite polyester fiber. It is a thing. The alkali weight loss ratio in the present invention is defined by the following formula from the cross-sectional area occupied by the core component and the sheath component in the cross section of the composite polyester fiber extracted from the alkali weight-reduced fabric portion and the untreated fabric portion. . Alkali weight loss rate (%) = {(A ₀ + B ₀ ) − (A ₁ +
B ₁ )} / B ₀ × 100 where A ₀ : untreated core component cross-sectional area, B ₀ : untreated sheath component cross-sectional area, A ₁ : treated core component cross-sectional area, B ₁ : treated sheath component disconnection area.

When the alkali treatment is carried out so that the alkali weight loss rate is in the range of 80 to 120%, more preferably 90 to 105%, the sheath component is preferentially removed and the core component is mainly exposed. When the alkali weight loss rate is less than 80%, the exposure rate of the core component on the surface of the composite polyester fiber is small, and the degree of manifestation of transparency is weak. Alkali weight loss rate is 12
If it exceeds 0%, the strength of the fabric tends to decrease.

In the present invention, a partial alkali weight reduction treatment method such as partial coating is employed in order to partially develop a transparent difference. That is, a sizing agent and caustic soda are mixed and partially attached by a printing method, and then steam heat treatment is performed to partially reduce the amount of cloth.

Here, the expression "partially reduced" means that the total area of the parts in the range of 80 to 120% of alkali weight reduction in 1 m ^{2 of} cloth is 5 to 80 with respect to the total area.
%, More preferably 20 to 50% is present (hereinafter referred to as the weight loss area ratio). When the weight reduction area ratio is less than 5%, there are few parts that exhibit a difference in transparency, and the aesthetics of a mixture of transparency and opacity becomes poor as a whole. 80
If it exceeds%, too many parts exhibit a difference in transparency, and the aesthetics of a mixture of transparency and opacity becomes poor as a whole. In addition, the strength of the fabric often decreases.

The fabric thus obtained is an aesthetic polyester fabric which is dyed with cationic dyes of various hues and has a distinctive mixture of partially transparent alkali-reduced areas and untreated areas of opacity. Becomes

[0020]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. Each item in the examples was measured by the following method.

(1) Intrinsic viscosity Orthochlorophenol was used as a solvent and measured at 35 ° C.

(2) Alkali weight loss rate (% / 30 mi
n) Under the same spinning and drawing conditions as in Example 1, the respective polyesters were separately spun into 84 dtex / 24 filmamen.
It was a drawn yarn of t. The drawn yarn sample was immersed in a 35 g / L caustic soda solution and treated in a boiling state for 30 minutes.
The weight loss rate was calculated from the weight of the cloth before and after the treatment, and the weight loss rate (% / 30 min) of each polyester was calculated.

(3) Alkali Weight Loss Ratio The composite polyester fibers obtained in the examples are used for warp / weft, and have a flatness of warp density (reed density) of 97 yarns / 25 mm and weft density (weft driving density) of 98 yarns / 25 mm. A woven fabric was obtained.
After refining and relaxing this plain weaving machine by the usual method,
The fabric was preset at 170 ° C. to obtain a fabric for alkali treatment.
Sunprint AFP (manufactured by Sansho) 50% by weight of original paste and 20 parts by weight of caustic soda are dissolved in 30 parts by weight of water and mixed well to prepare an alkaline print paste. Partially applied on the surface of the
After drying for 10 minutes, steaming treatment was performed at 105 ° C. for 10 minutes to obtain a partially alkali-treated fabric. The composite polyester fiber was extracted from any part of the partially alkali-treated fabric subjected to alkali treatment and any untreated part, and a photograph of the cross section of each fiber was taken. did. Alkali weight loss rate (%) = {(A ₀ + B ₀ ) − (A ₁ +
B ₁ )} / B ₀ × 100 where A ₀ : untreated core component cross-sectional area, B ₀ : untreated sheath component cross-sectional area, A ₁ : treated core component cross-sectional area, B ₁ : treated sheath component disconnection area.

(4) Aesthetics (mixed transparency and opacity) The cloth partially alkali-treated by the method described in the above item (3) is subjected to cation dyeing (dye Severon Blue) at 120 ° C. using a beam dyeing machine. 5G), and a fabric for aesthetic inspection. The cloth is placed on a black plate, and an inspector visually inspects for a difference in transparency between an alkali-treated part and a non-alkali-treated part. If the difference is noticeable, the aesthetic value is 5 points, and the difference is hardly recognized. In each case, the aesthetic value was 1 point, and the rating was 5 levels.

[Example 1] Using a composite spinning equipment,
Polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 2.6 mol% of sodium sulfophoisophthalic acid (hereinafter, i-PET, main characteristics are shown in Table 1) and polyethylene terephthalate in which the third component was not copolymerized (hereinafter PET-a, main characteristics) Are shown in Table 1) and melted at 290 ° C. in i-PET.
Is a sheath component, PET-a is a core component, and the core-sheath ratio is 30/70, and the composite is discharged in a normal core-sheath type, discharged, and spun at 1000 m / min. Stretching 3.2 times at a set temperature of 120 ° C, 84
A composite polyester fiber of dtex / 24filament was obtained.

[0026]

[Table 1]

The composite polyester fiber thus obtained was processed into a plain weave fabric by the method of "(3) Alkali weight loss rate of cloth" and subjected to alkali weight loss treatment to obtain a cloth having an alkali weight loss rate and a weight loss area rate shown in Table 2. Obtained. Then, the fabric was made into a fabric dyed cationically by the method of "(4) Aesthetic in which transparency and opacity are mixed", and the aesthetics were inspected. Table 2
As is clear from the above, the fabric obtained in this example has a remarkable difference in transparency between the alkali-treated portion and the non-alkali treated portion, and was rated as 5 aesthetics.

[0028]

[Table 2]

[Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Example 1] Composite polyester fibers were obtained by the same method and conditions as in Example 1 except that the polyesters shown in Table 1 were respectively used in the combinations shown in Table 2 except that the core component / sheath component was used. It was prepared, made into a cloth, subjected to alkali treatment and cation dyeing, and the results shown in Table 2 were obtained.

The aesthetics of the fabric obtained in Example 2 was 4 points,
The aesthetics of the fabric obtained in Example 3 obtained by using PET-c containing 0.5% by weight of titanium oxide having a refractive index of 2.5 as a core component was rated at 3 points, but s which was not dyed with a cationic dye. -PE
The aesthetics of the fabric obtained in Comparative Example 1 using T as a sheath component is 1
Was rated to a point.

[0031]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a polyester cloth having aesthetic properties in which transparent and opaque feelings are mixedly scattered, with the areas that are distinctly transparent.

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath composite polyester fiber whose main component is a polyester which has a faster alkali weight loss rate than that of a core component and which is dyeable with a cationic dye, and whose core component is a polyester which is not dyed with a cationic dye. A polyester cloth characterized in that the sheath component is partially removed. 2. The polyester cloth according to claim 1, wherein the content of fine particles having a refractive index of 1.6 or more in the core component polyester is 0.4% by weight or less based on the weight of the core component.