JP5385758B2 - High fastness woven / knitted fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having high fastness, more specifically, a composite woven or knitted fabric of polyester fibers and cellulosic fibers suitable for clothing and clothing materials used for sports use and work uniforms, etc. Even if it is a dark color, that is, a dark or extraordinary color, there is no color transfer to underwear, no discoloration or discoloration contamination due to repeated washing, and sweat even when worn with prolonged exercise The present invention relates to a composite woven or knitted fabric of polyester fibers and cellulosic fibers that are hardly discolored due to the above.

  Woven and knitted fabrics used for sports clothing and work uniforms, etc., have features such as good sweating, hard to shrink even after washing, less wrinkling, and little change in appearance such as fuzz and pilling Is required on the basis.

  As a material for satisfying the above function, a woven or knitted fabric in which polyester fiber and cotton or cellulose fiber are blended or combined is widely used for these purposes, and a dyed yarn is used for imparting aesthetics. In general, it is used as a dyed woven or knitted fabric or a post-dyed woven or knitted fabric that is dyed after being woven or knitted.

  The woven and knitted fabrics have been demanded in terms of color schemes for dark and deep color expressions according to the design and trends of shirts, outerwear, trousers, etc., but they are widely used when preparing dyed and knitted fabrics. For example, pre-dyed knitted fabrics and post-dyed woven knitted fabrics in which polyester fibers are dyed with disperse dyes and cellulosic fibers with reactive dyes are used for this purpose due to sunlight, sweat and long-term wear caused by reactive dyes. Color fading and discoloration are likely to occur in the woven or knitted fabric. In particular, when the woven or knitted fabric is a dark color, there are problems such as color transfer and color contamination.

  On the other hand, there is known dye selection that emphasizes prevention of fading, discoloration, and color transfer of the woven or knitted fabric. For example, polyester fibers are dyed with disperse dyes and cellulosic fibers are dyed with slen dyes. However, even if such a dye selection is performed, for example, there are restrictions on the expression of color density and hue, which are the disadvantages of selenium dyes. There were problems such as being expensive.

  For these problems, Patent Document 1 discloses a method of dyeing only polyester fibers with high wet fastness to a composite fiber of polyester fibers and cellulose fibers with hardly contaminating the cellulose fibers. However, this is only a disperse dye or dyeing method for reducing the contamination of cellulose fibers with disperse dyes used for dyeing polyester fibers. Since it is not mentioned, the above problem has not been solved.

Patent Document 2 discloses a deep dyeing method for fiber fabric and its fabric.
In this method, the fiber fabric is treated with a high-pressure liquid columnar flow to cause fine disturbance in the exposed fiber array of the fiber fabric, thereby reducing light reflection and recognizing the deep dyeing. However, since this method is based on the deep dyeing due to the visual effect of physically changing the fiber form of the fabric, it has not yet solved the above problem caused by the dye used for the cellulosic fibers.

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 6-65789 JP 2004-52156 A

  The problem of the present invention has been made in view of the current situation, and in the special dark or dark woven or knitted fabrics of polyester fibers and cellulosic fibers, even if washed repeatedly, the color may fade or discolor. A woven or knitted fabric with high fastness that does not cause contamination or color transfer to other woven or knitted fabrics such as white cloth, and does not discolor or fade due to sweat, etc. due to long-term wearing etc. It is something to be offered.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have determined that a colorant such as a color pigment is added to a cellulosic fiber such as polyester fiber or rayon in a composite woven or knitted fabric of polyester fiber and cellulosic fiber. Focusing on the fact that the woven or knitted fabric composed of the original fibers kneaded into the fiber material is darker and deeper than the woven or knitted fabric dyed with the dye, the present invention has been completed. It came to do.

That is, the present invention has the following configuration.
(A) Original polyester fiber containing a coloring agent in a range of 0.5 to 5.0 mass% with respect to the total amount, and an original containing 0.5 to 5.0 mass% of the coloring agent with respect to the total amount A woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers, wherein the mixed polyester fiber (A) and the cellulosic fibers (B) have a mixed weight ratio (A / B) of 80/20 to 20/80. Yes, when the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric, the woven fabric coverage WCF of the woven fabric represented by the following formula (1) is 20 or more and 45 or less, and when the woven or knitted fabric is a knitted fabric, it is represented by the following formula (2). A woven or knitted fabric with 100% original fibers, characterized in that the knitted fabric covering degree KCF of the knitted fabric is 15 to 30.
(1) Fabric coverage: WCF = WCF1 + WCF2
WCF1 = warp density Dt (main / 2.54 cm) / √warp count Nt
WCF2 = Weft density Dy (line / 2.54cm) / √Weft count Ny
(2) Knitting coverage: KCF = KCF1 + KCF2
KCF1 = Number of wales Dw (book / 2.54cm) / √ Knitting count Nk
KCF2 = number of courses Dc (2.5cm) / √ Knitting count Nk
(B) The woven or knitted fabric according to (a), wherein the original polyester fiber and the original cellulosic fiber are short fibers, and a spun yarn of 100% original fibers obtained by blending these short fibers is used.
(C) The woven or knitted fabric according to (a) or (b), wherein the original polyester fiber is a filament yarn, and is knitted and woven into a part of the woven or knitted fabric.

In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, even if this woven or knitted fabric is washed repeatedly in a special dark or dark woven knitted fabric of polyester fibers and cellulosic fibers, the woven or knitted fabric loses color or loses color and becomes white cloth, etc. It does not cause contamination or color transfer to other woven or knitted fabrics, and has a high performance that hardly causes discoloration or fading due to sweat or the like even when worn with long-term exercise .

The present invention will be described in detail below.
(Polyester fiber)
The polyester fiber in the present invention is exemplified by a polyester fiber having ethylene terephthalate as a main structural unit, but may be a polyester fiber copolymerized with a small amount of a third component, including an antistatic agent and other modifiers. It doesn't matter if it goes out.

(Cellulose fiber)
Cellulosic fibers in the present invention include viscose rayon, high-wet modulus rayon represented by modal, purified cellulose fiber and copper ammonia rayon that are spun by dissolving cellulose in an organic solvent (N methylmorpholine N oxide), Examples include polynosic rayon and regenerated cellulose fiber made from bamboo. These may be used alone or in combination.

(Original polyester fiber)
In order to produce the original polyester fiber, the colorant may be added in an arbitrary process from the polymerization stage of the polymer to the spinning, but it is added after the completion of the polymerization from the viewpoint of handling of facilities such as contamination and control. It is preferable to do this.
The addition method is preferably a masterbatch method in view of stability during melt spinning and handling of colorants.
Specific examples of the colorant referred to in the present invention include inorganic pigments such as carbon black, titanium oxide, dial, ultramarine, and organic pigments such as phthalocyanine, polyazo, anthraquinone, and perylene.

  In the original polyester fiber in the present invention, the coloring agent is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0% by mass based on the total amount of the original polyester fiber, and preferably, in order to obtain a preferable color density as a dark color. It is better to contain 1.5 to 3.0% by mass. When the colorant is less than 0.5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the original polyester fiber, sufficient color development and color density cannot be obtained for the original polyester fiber, while when it exceeds 5.0% by mass, the color is smooth. It becomes difficult to perform spinning, which is not preferable.

The filament yarn of the original polyester fiber in the present invention is prepared by mixing a polyester polymer so that the colorant content is 0.5 to 5.0% by mass with respect to the total amount of the original polyester fiber. Can be obtained by spinning and drawing using a melt spinning melt spinning apparatus.
Moreover, the short fiber of the original polyester fiber in the present invention is obtained by stretching the obtained filament yarn, then crimping it, and further cutting it to a necessary length.

  The original polyester fiber in the present invention is insoluble in water, oil, alcohol, and the like, and a coloring pigment (pigment particle) having a particle size much larger than that of the dye is colored in a state of being dispersed inside the fiber. In addition, the original polyester fiber has a deep color and is dark, and also has problems such as color fading, contamination, and color transfer due to washing and friction, discoloration due to sunlight, and dye transfer due to heat. It is much less likely to occur than polyester fibers dyed with disperse dyes having smaller particle sizes.

(Original cellulose fiber)
The original cellulosic fiber in the present invention contains 0.5 to 5.0% by mass of a colorant, preferably 1.5 to 3.0% by mass, based on the total amount of the original cellulosic fiber. It is good to contain. When the colorant is less than 0.5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the original cellulosic fiber, sufficient color development and color density cannot be obtained for the original cellulosic fiber, whereas when it exceeds 5.0% by mass. This is because it hinders smooth spinning.

  Specific examples of the colorant referred to in the present invention are the same as those exemplified for the colorant of the original polyester fiber, inorganic pigments such as carbon black, titanium oxide, petal, ultramarine, phthalocyanine, polyazo, and anthraquinone. And organic pigments such as perylene and perylene.

In the filament yarn of the original cellulosic fiber in the present invention, 0.5 to 5.0% by mass of the colorant is mixed with the cellulose original solution with respect to the total amount of the original cellulosic fiber, and then wet spinning or drying is performed by a conventional method. • Obtained by wet spinning.
The staple fibers of the original cellulosic fibers in the present invention are obtained by spinning the obtained filament yarn and then cutting and drying it to a required length.

  The original cellulosic fiber in the present invention is colored in a state where a color pigment (pigment particle) that is insoluble in water, oil, alcohol or the like and has a particle size much larger than that of the dye is dispersed inside the fiber. For this reason, the original cellulosic fibers are deep and dark, and they are also stained with ionic dyes such as reactive dyes and selenium dyes. It is much harder to make than the cellulose fiber made.

(Blend yarn)
The blended yarn (composite yarn) of the original polyester fiber and the original cellulosic fiber in the present invention is obtained by blending these short fibers in a conventional spinning process, and then performing the sooting, kneading, roving and spinning processes. The ring spun yarn obtained through the process may be a spun yarn obtained by an open-end spinning method in which a sliver is directly spun into a yarn or an air-overflow method (“MVS” manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.), and the spinning method. However, it is necessary to have the necessary strength, uniformity, and yarn appearance as a spun yarn.

(Weaving and knitting)
The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is formed by crossing yarns using the spun yarn, the filament yarn or the like.
The woven fabric is woven by crossing warp yarns and weft yarns at a right angle, specifically, plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or their changed structure.
In knitting weaving loops of yarn, specifically, weft knitting where weaving loops are made with weft yarns, tengu, rubber, double-sided knitting, etc. Weaved by half knitting, power net knitting, raschel knitting and the like.
In particular, the woven or knitted fabric obtained using the spun yarn is preferably a long and short composite knitted fabric by interweaving the filament yarn of the original polyester fiber in a part of the woven or knitted fabric. This is because, for example, a woven or knitted fabric consisting only of short fiber spun yarn gives a unique natural expression, surface texture, and warm texture created by fluff, twist, bulge, and yarn spots peculiar to short fibers. Depending on the material to be used, its ratio, count, etc., pilling and thread spots become a problem. On the other hand, a woven or knitted fabric consisting only of filament yarns is generally inexpensive because it does not require a spinning process, and this knitted or knitted fabric has no pilling or yarn unevenness, but has a uniform thickness and straight fibers arranged in parallel. Because there is almost no gap between fibers, there is no warmth in paper-like and plastic-like, and it feels inorganic and cold. Therefore, by knitting and knitting the filament yarn to the woven or knitted fabric obtained using the spun yarn composed of only the short fibers, it is possible to obtain a warm woven or knitted fabric unique to the fibers that complements each other's defects.

At that time, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric in which the mixing ratio weight% of the original polyester fiber and the original cellulosic fiber such as the original rayon fiber is combined at a mixed weight ratio of 80/20 to 20/80. In the case of a woven fabric, the woven fabric has a woven fabric coverage WCF (cover factor) of 20 or more and 45 or less, and in the case of a knitted fabric, the following formula (2) The knitted fabric represented by the knitted fabric must have a knitted fabric covering degree KCF (cover factor) of 15 or more and 30 or less, and is a woven or knitted fabric of 100% of the original fibers.
(1) Textile coverage (cover factor): WCF = WCF1 + WCF2
WCF1 = warp density Dt (main / 2.54 cm) / √warp count Nt
WCF2 = Weft density Dy (line / 2.54cm) / √Weft count Ny
(2) Knitting coverage (cover factor): KCF = KCF1 + KCF2
KCF1 = Number of wales Dw (book / 2.54cm) / √ Knitting count Nk
KCF2 = Number of courses Dc (Book / 2.54cm) / √ Knitting count Nk
In general, weaving and knitting, even if the density required for weaving and knitting before dyeing is insufficient, due to loads such as heat, water flow and tension during the dyeing process, warp direction (wel direction in the case of knitting) and weft direction (knitting) In this case, the density of the dyed woven or knitted fabric increases due to the shrinking action of several percent to several tens of percent (depending on the structure, density, and dyeing method) in the course direction), and the density required for the woven or knitted fabric may be obtained. is there. On the other hand, a woven or knitted fabric made of 100% of the original fibers does not require dyeing, so the density changes little or very little, and even after finishing the processing, the density necessary for the woven or knitted fabric is insufficient. .
Accordingly, the woven fabric of the present invention may have a fabric coverage of 20 ≦ WCF ≦ 45, preferably 25 ≦ WCF ≦ 40. If the WCF is less than 20, the strength of the fabric may be insufficient, and the stitches may be torn after sewing. If it exceeds 45, it will become a dense fabric too hard, thick and unsuitable for clothing.
The knitted fabric of the present invention requires 15 ≦ KCF ≦ 30 as the knitted fabric coverage, and preferably 15 ≦ KCF ≦ 25. If the KCF is less than 15, the strength of the knitted fabric may be insufficient, and the stitches after the sewing may be torn. If it exceeds 30, it will be too dense, hard and thick and unsuitable for clothing.
If both the woven and knitted fabrics are within the above ranges, a woven or knitted fabric that does not have the strength and seam breakage required for the woven or knitted fabric, has a good texture, has a deep color, is dark, and has good fastness to friction and washing can be obtained. It is done.
In the present invention, the mixing weight ratio of the original polyester fiber and the original cellulose fiber needs to be 80/20 to 20/80, preferably 65/35 to 35/65. If the mixing ratio of the original polyester fiber exceeds 80%, the water absorption becomes worse and the appearance changes due to pilling, and the mixing ratio of the original cellulose fiber such as the original rayon fiber is 80%. This is because if it exceeds, the dimensional stability and wrinkle recovery after washing are deteriorated .

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example demonstrate this invention concretely, this invention is not restrict | limited to these Examples. In addition, evaluation of the performance of the woven fabric or the knitted fabric used in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed by the following method.

(1) Evaluation of color depth / darkness The L value (lightness) of a woven or knitted fabric was measured using a colorimeter (“Color Eye” manufactured by Gretag Macbeth Co., Ltd.). The following evaluation was performed according to the L value.
○: Excellent (L ≦ 16.0)
Δ: Good to acceptable (16.0 <L <20.0)
×: Impossible (L ≧ 20.0)

(2) Determination of fastness to washing In accordance with No. A-2 specified in the dyeing fastness test method for washing (JIS-L-0844), the fabric or knitted fabric is washed, dewatered, and dried. The following series (G) determinations were made for the degree of fading and the degree of liquid contamination of the white fabric attached to the woven fabric or knitted fabric, respectively, based on the gray scale for color fading and the gray scale for staining.
(I) Discoloration
○: Excellent (G> 4th grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 4th grade)
×: Impossible (G <4th grade)
(Ii) Liquid contamination
○: Excellent (G> 3rd grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3rd grade)
×: Impossible (G <3rd grade)

(3) Determination of fastness to friction in dry and wet conditions In accordance with Friction Tester Type II (Gakushin Type) specified in Dye Fastness Test Method (JIS-L-0849), a friction tester is used. The following series (G) judgments were made on the basis of the gray scale for contamination with respect to the degree of contamination of the white fabric in the dry state (dry test) and wet state (wet test).
(I) Dry test
○: Excellent (G ≧ 4th grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3.5 grade)
×: Impossible (G ≦ 3rd grade)
(Ii) Wet test
○: Excellent (G> 2nd grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 2 grade)
×: Impossible (G <2nd grade)

(4) Determination of sweat fastness In accordance with the sweat fastness test method (JIS-L-0848), a white cloth is sewn on the woven fabric or knitted fabric, and (i) acidic (pH 5.5) and (ii) ) After impregnating with alkaline (pH 8.0) artificial sweat, it was dried at 37 ° C., and the following series (G) was determined based on the degree of contamination of the white cloth.
(I) Acid artificial sweat
○: Excellent (G> 3.5 grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3.5 grade)
×: Impossible (G <3.5 grade)
(Ii) Alkaline artificial sweat
○: Excellent (G> 3.5 grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3.5 grade)
×: Impossible (G <3.5 grade)

(5) Judgment of wrinkle recovery after washing In accordance with the 103 method stipulated in the dimensional change by washing process (JIS-L-0217), the fabric or knitted fabric is washed three times with a standard detergent and then dried by drying. The following series (G) determination was performed on wrinkle recovery after washing the knitted fabric based on the 5-step replica method of AATCC 124-1984.
○: Excellent (G> 3.0 grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3.0 grade)
×: Impossible (G <3.0 grade)

(6) Judgment of pilling property In accordance with A method (method using an ICI type testing machine) prescribed in the pilling test method (JIS-L-1076) of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, in the case of woven fabrics, friction is applied for 10 hours. In the case of a knitted fabric, after applying friction for 5 hours, the following series (G) determination was performed.
○: Excellent (G> 3rd grade)
Δ: Good to acceptable (G = 3rd grade)
×: Impossible (G <3rd grade)

(7) Evaluation of hygroscopicity The water absorption height H of the woven fabric or knitted fabric was measured according to the birec method defined in the water absorption test method (JIS-L-1907) for textile products. The following evaluation was made according to the water absorption height.
○: Excellent (H ≧ 45mm)
Δ: Good to acceptable (20 mm <H <45 mm)
×: Impossible (H ≦ 20mm)

(8) Evaluation of the rate of dimensional change In accordance with the 103 method stipulated in the dimensional change due to washing treatment (JIS-L-0217), the fabric or knitted fabric is washed at a water temperature of 40 ° C. for 5 minutes, dehydrated, and the water temperature is 30 ° C. Repeat the rinse for 2 minutes twice and repeat the process of hanging and drying in a place not exposed to direct sunlight 5 times, the longitudinal direction (in the case of a knitted fabric, the wale direction) and the transverse direction (in the case of a knitted fabric) The dimensional change rate D in the course direction) was determined, and the following evaluation was performed. However, the plus notation indicates that it has increased. For example, + 3% indicates that it has increased by 3%. The minus notation indicates that the image has shrunk. For example, −3% indicates that the product has shrunk by 3%.
(I) Longitudinal and transverse direction of the fabric
○: Excellent (-3% <D <+ 3%)
Δ: Good to acceptable (D = ± 3%)
×: Impossible (D <-3%, D> + 3%)
(Ii) Wale direction and course direction of the knitted fabric
○: Excellent (-6% <D <+ 6%)
Δ: Good to acceptable (D = ± 6%)
×: Impossible (D <-6%, D> + 6%)

(Example 1)
Using carbon black as a colorant and 50% by weight of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm original polyester short fiber containing 2.0% by mass with respect to the total amount of the original polyester fiber, carbon black was also used as the colorant. In a conventional ring spinning process, 2.0% by mass of the total amount of the original rayon is mixed with 50% by weight of the original drayon rayon of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm manufactured by the viscose method. The blended cotton was then spun, passed through spinning, roving, spinning, and fine spinning to obtain a Ne 30th black spun yarn.
Using this yarn, weaving a warp fabric with a warp of 130 / 1.54 / 2.54 cm, a weft of 70 / 1.2.54 cm, and a twill of CF = 36.5. In order to stabilize the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the dry finishing process after the refining process, heat set (170 degrees x 45 seconds) is applied, and the original polyester fiber 50% by weight and the original rayon fiber 50% by weight. A black twill fabric was obtained.
The obtained woven fabric was measured for the above various physical properties and various fastnesses, and then evaluated and judged. The test results are shown in Table 1.

(Example 2)
In the same manner as in Example 1, a Ne 30th black spun yarn comprising 50% by weight of the original polyester short fibers and 50% by weight of the original rayon short fibers was obtained.
Using this yarn, a knitted knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine of 28G, 34 inches (1 inch = 2.54 cm) caliber, and 102 yarns, and then opened, and then put into a normal pressure liquid flow dyeing machine. After refining in a conventional manner, the width was widened in the finishing process and heat setting (170 ° C. × 45 seconds) was performed to obtain a black knitted fabric with CF = 21.
After measuring the above-mentioned physical properties and various fastnesses for the obtained woven knit, each evaluation / determination was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

Example 3
In the same manner as in Example 1, a Ne 30th black spun yarn comprising 50% by weight of the original polyester short fibers and 50% by weight of the original rayon short fibers was obtained.
Using this yarn as a warp, and using a filament yarn 167 dtex / 36f of an original polyester fiber containing 2.0% by mass of carbon black as a colorant with respect to the total amount of the original polyester fiber, the weft is a warp. After weaving 130 yarns / 2.54 cm, weft 72 yarns / 2.54 cm, 2/1 twill fabric of CF = 35.9, in a continuous continuous dyeing process, After the refining process, in order to stabilize the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the dry finishing process, heat set (170 ° C. × 45 seconds) was applied, and the original polyester fiber 67% by weight and the original rayon fiber 33% by weight. A black twill fabric was obtained.
After measuring the physical properties and fastnesses of the obtained twill fabric, each evaluation / determination was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
50% by weight of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm polyester short fiber and 50% by weight of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm rayon short fiber produced by the viscose method are used for blending in a conventional ring spinning process, Ne30 count spun yarn was obtained through the sooting, kneading, roving, and fine spinning processes.
Using this yarn, weaving a 2/1 left twill weave of warp 130 / 2.54 cm, weft 70 / 2.54 cm, CF = 36.5, and then using the resulting twill weave. Using the color density of the black fabric obtained in Example 1 as a sample, with a disperse dye ("Kayaron BLACK" manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) and a reactive dye ("Sumifix BLACK" manufactured by Sumika Chemtex Co., Ltd.) The dyeing recipe was made at the beaker level.
In order to stabilize the shrinkage rate of the fabric in the dry finishing process using this beaker dye recipe, the dye is dyed by a continuous dyeing method (one-bath dyeing) using a conventional disperse dye and reactive dye. C. x 45 seconds) to obtain a black twill woven fabric having 50% by weight of polyester fibers and 50% by weight of rayon fibers.
After measuring the physical properties and fastnesses of the obtained twill fabric, each evaluation / determination was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
15% by weight of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm polyester short fiber, and 85% by weight of 1.7 dtex × 38 mm rayon short fiber produced by the viscose method, blended in a conventional ring spinning process, Ne30 count spun yarn was obtained through the sooting, kneading, roving, and fine spinning processes.
Using this yarn, weaving a 2/1 left twill weave of warp 130 / 2.54 cm, weft 70 / 2.54 cm, CF = 36.5, and then using the resulting twill weave. Using the color density of the black fabric obtained in Example 1 as a sample, with a disperse dye (“Kayaron BLACK” manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) and a selenium dye (“Mikeslen BLACK” manufactured by DYSTAR), beaker level The dye recipe was prepared by trial and error, but the black color density as shown in the sample was not obtained, and it became shallow and thin.
This beaker dye recipe is dyed by a continuous dyeing method (one-bath dyeing) using a conventional disperse dye and slen dye, and heat set (170 ° C.) in order to stabilize the shrinkage of the fabric in the drying finishing process. × 45 seconds) was applied to obtain a black twill fabric having 50% by weight of polyester fibers and 50% by weight of rayon fibers.
After measuring the physical properties and fastnesses of the obtained twill fabric, each evaluation / determination was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

(Comparative Example 3)
Using a 1.7 dtex × 38 mm polyester short fiber 85% by weight and a 1.7 dtex × 38 mm rayon short fiber 15% by weight produced by the viscose method, blended in a conventional ring spinning process, Ne30 count spun yarn was obtained through the sooting, kneading, roving, and fine spinning processes.
Using this yarn, knitting was performed according to the same standards as in Example 2. Using the color density of the black fabric obtained in Example 2 as a sample, the disperse dye ("Kayaron BLACK" manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) and the reactive dye ("Sumifix BLACK" manufactured by Sumika Chemtex Co., Ltd.) After creating a dye recipe and opening it, after refining in a conventional manner with a high-pressure liquid dyeing machine, based on the dye recipe, dye it with one-bath dyeing of disperse dye and reactive dye, and in the finishing process Then, heat setting (170 ° C. × 45 seconds) was performed to obtain a black woven fabric with CF = 21.
After measuring the above-mentioned physical properties and various fastnesses for the obtained woven knit, each evaluation / determination was performed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

As a result, from Table 1, the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 has poor friction fastness and sweat fastness in the moisture test, and color fading occurs during wearing and washing, and Comparative Example 2 shows the target color. Concentration cannot be obtained, the shrinkage after washing is large, and the problem of easy wrinkling remains, and Comparative Example 3 has poor pilling and poor water absorption, so that the basic function as a woven or knitted fabric for this application is inferior.
On the other hand, according to the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, as shown in Examples 1, 2, and 3 of Table 1, the color is deep and dark, and satisfies various physical properties and fastness required for the woven or knitted fabric for this application. It has excellent functions and aesthetics.

Claims (3)

Original polyester fiber containing colorant in the range of 0.5 to 5.0% by mass with respect to the total amount, and original cellulose system containing 0.5 to 5.0% by mass of colorant with respect to the total amount A woven or knitted fabric of a single layer structure formed by crossing yarns made of fibers,
When the blended weight ratio (A / B) of the original polyester fiber (A) and the original cellulose fiber (B) is 80/20 to 20/80, and the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric, the following formula ( When the fabric coverage WCF of the woven fabric represented by 1) is 20 or more and 45 or less, and the knitted fabric is a knitted fabric, the knitting coverage KCF of the knitted fabric represented by the following formula (2) is 15 or more and 30 or less. A woven or knitted fabric made of 100% original fibers, characterized by being
(1) Fabric coverage: WCF = WCF1 + WCF2
WCF1 = warp density Dt (main / 2.54 cm) / √warp count Nt
WCF2 = Weft density Dy (line / 2.54cm) / √Weft count Ny
(2) Knitting coverage: KCF = KCF1 + KCF2
KCF1 = Number of wales Dw (book / 2.54cm) / √ Knitting count Nk
KCF2 = number of courses Dc (2.5cm) / √ Knitting count Nk   The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the original polyester fiber and the original cellulosic fiber are short fibers, and a spun yarn of 100% original fibers obtained by blending these short fibers is used.   The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the original polyester fiber is a filament yarn, and is knitted and woven into a part of the woven or knitted fabric.