JP2001192948A - Polyester woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester woven or knitted fabric rich in soft feeling, bulge and repulsion which have not been obtained in a conventional technique regardless of being low in cost, free from problem in dignity of woven or knitted fabric and excellent in general-purpose properties. SOLUTION: This polyester woven or knitted fabric is characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric is composed of polyester multifilament ad a temperature T (max) exhibiting maximum shrinkage factor in a direction having higher shrinkage factor among warp direction and weft direction of woven or knitted fabric is within the range of Tg-5 deg.C to Tg+5 deg.C and the temperature T (max) satisfies the relationships with the following (a) and (b), wherein Tg represents glass transition point ( deg.C) of polyester multifilament. (a) The relationship between the temperature and shrinkage factor in a direction having higher shrinkage factor among shrinkage factors in warp direction and weft direction in the temperature range from T (max) deg.C to 200 deg.C has negative characteristic. (b) The relationship between bulkiness and shrinkage factor of fabric between T (max) deg.C and 200 deg.C has positive characteristic, wherein the bulkiness represents thickness/weight (cm3/g).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric containing polyester as a main component (hereinafter collectively referred to as a woven or knitted fabric). In more detail, in the direction of the shrinkage rate in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the woven or knitted fabric, it shows the maximum shrinkage near the glass transition point, and then continues heating to express the thermal elongation characteristics and the fabric itself It is related to woven and knitted fabrics that have an unprecedented softness, swelling, and rebound with a unique phenomenon that elongation and bulkiness of the fabric increase, and these features make shirts, blouses, dresses, coats, jackets The present invention relates to a polyester woven or knitted fabric capable of providing a material that can be widely used in applications such as black formal, lining and quilted base fabric, and walking and care clothing.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, polyester yarns are widely used as clothing materials from thin to heavy materials because of their characteristics such as dimensional stability and wash and wear properties. Furthermore, in order to improve the texture and aesthetics while making use of the characteristics, it has been a long time to adopt a yarn having a modified cross section such as a triangular cross section or to perform false twisting. In addition, in order to respond to recent high market demands, composite false twisted yarns combining multiple yarns with different characteristics, mainly for women's apparel applications, and hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarns that give rise to woven or knitted fabrics using the difference in heat shrinkage, etc. Many have been proposed and adopted.

[0003] However, since multiple yarns having different characteristics are combined, the cost must be increased, and this is one of the factors that hinder versatility.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the current situation of the above-mentioned conventional yarn and the obtained woven or knitted fabric, the present invention is low in cost but rich in soft feeling, swelling and resilience that could not be obtained by the conventional technology. It is another object of the present invention to provide a polyester woven / knitted fabric excellent in versatility without a problem of the quality of the woven fabric.

[0005]

The polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following constitution in order to solve the above-mentioned problems.
That is, [1] a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester multifilaments, which has a maximum shrinkage rate T in a direction of a high shrinkage rate in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the woven or knitted fabric.
(Max) in the range of Tg-5 ° C to Tg + 5 ° C, and satisfying the following relationships (a) and (b): (A) The relationship between the temperature and the shrinkage ratio in the direction in which the shrinkage ratio is high in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the cloth between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a negative characteristic. (B) The relationship between the bulk height of fabric and the shrinkage ratio between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a positive characteristic.

Here, Tg: glass transition point (° C.) of polyester multifilament Bulk height = thickness / basis weight (cm ³ / g) [2] Of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the dough when heated at 200 ° C. Shrinkage ratio in the direction of high shrinkage ratio of 3
The polyester woven or knitted fabric according to the above [1], wherein the content is 5% or less. [3] The difference between the fabric shrinkage at T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is 2
% Or more and 20% or less, the polyester woven or knitted fabric according to the above [1] or [2]. It is.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

First, the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is composed of polyester multifilaments. The polyester described herein is a polymer having an ester bond in a molecular chain, and is a homopolymer represented by polyethylene terephthalate and a homopolymer thereof. And a polymer in which the third component is copolymerized for the purpose of improving the dyeing properties and the like, and a polymer that exhibits high deep color by forming microvoids on the yarn surface due to alkali weight loss or the like. There is also no particular limitation on the fineness configuration, cross-sectional shape, etc., such as a triangular, yaba, or hollow cross-sectional yarn, or a so-called fineness mixed yarn containing single yarns with different fineness, Thick and thin drawn yarn having unevenness in thickness in the longitudinal direction may be used. Furthermore, it is also preferable to employ a side-by-side type composite yarn composed of a polymer having a difference in shrinkage characteristics in order to impart a stretch property to the woven or knitted fabric.

These polyester multifilaments are used at least in part to form a woven or knitted fabric. However, in order to obtain a textile having a desired softness, swelling and rebound, the weight ratio of the woven or knitted fabric is not less than 20%. It is important that it is composed of multifilaments that can exhibit the characteristics described below, and more preferably 40% or more.

The above-mentioned "characteristics described below" means that the temperature T (ma) which indicates the maximum shrinkage in the direction of the shrinkage of the woven or knitted fabric in the vertical direction or the horizontal direction is high.
x) is in the range of Tg−5 ° C. to Tg + 5 ° C. and satisfies the following relationships (a) and (b). However, here, (a) the relationship between the temperature and the shrinkage in the direction in which the shrinkage is high in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the cloth between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a negative characteristic. (B) The relationship between the bulk height of fabric and the shrinkage ratio between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a positive characteristic.

That is, a polyester multifilament exhibiting the above characteristics in the state of a woven or knitted fabric is used for a warp yarn and / or a weft yarn of a woven fabric, or used for at least a part of a knitted fabric.

In the description of these features, first, the main woven or knitted fabric is made into a fabric, and then subjected to a heat treatment applied in a usual dyeing step or the like at a temperature near the glass transition point and in a vertical direction and / or at a temperature near the glass transition point.
Alternatively, high shrinkage is once exhibited in a direction with a high shrinkage ratio in the horizontal direction, and then, by increasing the heating temperature, the size of the dough actually increases in the direction with a high shrinkage ratio due to a thermal elongation phenomenon.

It is important that the temperature T (max) showing the maximum shrinkage is in the range of Tg−5 ° C. or more and Tg + 5 ° C. or less around the glass transition point (Tg) of the polyester multifilament. This is to make a sufficient thermal elongation phenomenon that occurs when heating at a higher temperature after the maximum shrinkage. In polyesters, it is practically impossible to set the maximum shrinkage below the glass transition point due to the properties of the polymer, and the temperature must be Tg-5 ° C. or higher. Although the elongation phenomenon is still unclear, it has been interpreted as a general concept that the elongation phenomenon occurs when the degree of crystallinity and orientation are set to a certain state. It is thought that by making the crystal part sufficiently relaxed, the amorphous part grows in the fiber axis direction by the subsequent heat treatment, and the actual yarn length becomes longer. It is important that the part is sufficiently relaxed (shrinked), and the temperature is set to Tg + 5 ° C. or less. If the maximum shrinkage rate is set to exceed Tg + 5 ° C., the amorphous part is accompanied by rapid crystallization, and the thermal elongation phenomenon occurs. Lost or represent, also not preferable because the amount of elongation becomes insufficient.

This thermal expansion phenomenon is caused by the maximum contraction temperature T (ma).
x) is manifested when heated at a temperature above
Between (max) ° C and 200 ° C of dry heat usually employed in the dyeing process of a polyester woven or knitted fabric, the shrinkage must always have a negative relationship with temperature. This is an important point of the present invention in order to obtain a resilient textile, and the relationship between the temperature and the shrinkage ratio is always negative above T (max) ° C., that is, as the heating temperature rises. By increasing the amount of thermal elongation, it is possible to create sufficient voids at the intersections where the yarns of the woven and knitted fabrics intersect each other. That is, the resilience is good. In this temperature range, if there is a positive relationship, that is, a shrinkage phenomenon, voids at the intersections are not sufficient, which is not preferable.

In the range of T (max) ° C. to 200 ° C., which is usually employed in the dyeing process of a polyester woven or knitted fabric, the bulk elongation obtained by the following equation can be obtained at the same time as the heat elongation increases. It is important that change is a positive relationship.

Here, bulk height = thickness / basis weight (cm ³ /
g) This increase in bulk height is an important part of the aim of the present invention in order to obtain a textile rich in softness and swelling. Above T (max) ° C., the relationship between the temperature and the bulk height is positive, that is, the voids continue to expand in the thickness direction of the woven or knitted fabric with an increase in the heating temperature, so that the intersection of the woven or knitted fabric due to the increase in the thermal elongation is increased. Only when combined with the increase in voids, can we offer textiles that are unprecedented in softness, swelling and rebound.

As described above, the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention exhibits a heat elongation phenomenon after undergoing a maximum shrinkage once by a heat treatment in a dyeing step usually employed for a polyester woven or knitted fabric after forming into a fabric. However, if the fabric is left with too much elongation when it becomes the final product, so-called gross problems such as breakage of the knee when wearing a sewn product are likely to occur. It is preferable that the contraction ratio in the direction with the higher contraction ratio in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 35% or less.

Further, in order to impart the intended resilience to the final product, the above-mentioned T (max) ° C is set to a dry heat of 200 ° C. which is usually employed in a dyeing process of a polyester woven or knitted fabric.
The difference is preferably 2% or more and 20% or less, while the shrinkage ratio always always satisfies the negative relationship with temperature, and when less than 2%, the improvement in resilience is insufficient. On the other hand, if the thermal elongation of the fabric exceeds 20%, the yarn must be left with a large elongation, so that the problem of so-called gross, such as breakage of the knee when wearing a sewn product, tends to occur as described above. Therefore, it is not preferable.

[0019]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Each physical property value described in the text and in the examples is based on the following measurement methods. (1) Birefringence (Δn) Measured by an interference fringe method using a normal polarizing microscope compensator. (2) Glass transition point Measured using a temperature modulated DSC. (3) Maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) The woven or knitted fabric marked with the original length (L1) in the vertical and horizontal directions is put into warm water of 40 ° C, and processed until boiling at a temperature rising curve of 1 ° C / min. The sample that is being heated is taken out, the post-processing marking length (L2) in the vertical and horizontal directions at the processing temperature is measured, and the shrinkage is calculated by the following equation. The maximum shrinkage temperature in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is defined as the maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) ° C. When the highest shrinkage temperature is the same in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, either one is adopted.

Shrinkage (%) = (L1−L2) / L1 (4) Bulk height First, the thickness of the sample in the standard state was measured using a presser foot, and the woven fabric was 235.68 mN / cm ² (24
0 g / cm ² ) Under load, the knitted fabric is 68.649 N / cm
² Leave it under a load of 7 g / cm ² for 10 seconds to measure. Next, using the same sample, the basis weight is measured by a usual method, and the bulk height is calculated using the following equation.

Bulk height = thickness / basis weight (cm ³ / g) (5) Heat treatment conditions from T (max) ° C. to 200 ° C. In order to approximate the dyeing process of a usual polyester woven or knitted fabric,
The woven or knitted fabric is put into warm water at 40 ° C. and treated until boiling at a temperature rising curve of 1 ° C./min. Air-dry after removal and 10
From 0 ° C. to 200 ° C., the dryer is heated at 10 ° C. intervals using a dryer, and the woven or knitted fabric is treated in a free state for 10 minutes each. That is, from 100 ° C. to 200 ° C., the dryer is heated to 100 ° C. in a state where no sample is contained, the sample is put in a free state, treated for 10 minutes, taken out, and further heated to 110 ° C. After that, the sample is put in a free state, processed for 10 minutes, and taken out.
After the temperature was raised to 120 ° C., the sample was charged in a free state, treated for 10 minutes and taken out.
C .: The treatment is repeated up to 200 ° C., and the shrinkage ratio under each temperature condition is confirmed.

Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer was melt spun at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having 133 dtex-144 filaments and a birefringence (Δn) of 40 × 10 ⁻³ . Using this yarn, simultaneous false twisting was performed at a false twist temperature of 30 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.59. The glass transition point of the processed yarn was 70 ° C.

This yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, and a plain fabric was woven. The maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) of this woven fabric was 70 ° C. FIG. 1 shows changes in the processing temperature between T (max) ° C. and 200 ° C., the average shrinkage in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, and the bulk height.

After the woven fabric was relaxed and scoured, it was set at 180 ° C., subjected to a 12% alkali reduction treatment, subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a jet dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric was rich in softness and excellent in swelling and resilience, and had voids between the single yarns as shown in the woven fabric cross-sectional photograph shown in FIG.

(Example 2) Polyethylene terephthalate
Melt spinning of homopolymer at spinning speed of 4000 m / min
And a birefringence index (Δ
n) is 61 × 10 ^-3Was obtained. Of this thread
The glass transition point was 72 ° C. This highly oriented undrawn yarn is
A plain woven fabric was woven using the warp yarn and the weft yarn. This weave
The maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) of the product was 70 ° C. T
(Max) The processing temperature and vertical direction between 200C and 200C
Figure 2 shows the changes in average shrinkage and bulk height in the horizontal direction.
You.

After the woven fabric was relaxed and scoured, it was set at 180 ° C., subjected to a 16% alkali weight reduction treatment, subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a jet dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric was rich in softness and excellent in swelling and resilience, and had voids between the single yarns as shown in the woven fabric photograph shown in FIG.

Comparative Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer was melt-spun at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min, and a drawn yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 150 × 10 ⁻³ with 83 dtex-72 filaments was formed using a conventional method. Obtained. The glass transition point of this yarn was 71 ° C. Using this drawn yarn as the warp yarn and the weft yarn, a plain fabric was woven. The maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) of this woven fabric was the boiling temperature. FIG. 3 shows the change in the processing temperature between 70 ° C. and 200 ° C., the average shrinkage in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, and the bulk height.

Further, after the woven fabric was relaxed and scoured, it was set at 180 ° C., subjected to a 21% alkali reduction treatment, subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a jet dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric was a paper-like woven fabric with little swelling, and had a flat and bulge-free structure as shown in the woven fabric photograph shown in FIG.

(Comparative Example 2) In a state where a polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with isophthalic acid and a homopolymer of polyethylene terephthalate were drawn and spun and drawn by a usual method, a different shrinkage mixed fiber of 83 dtex-36 filaments was obtained. Obtained. Among the obtained mixed yarns, the glass transition point of the yarn obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid was 62 ° C,
The glass transition point of the polyester homopolymer yarn is 71.
° C. A twill fabric was woven using the different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn as a weft yarn and the warp yarn as a 56 dtex-18 filament drawn polyester yarn obtained by a conventional method. Maximum shrinkage temperature T (max) in the weft direction of this woven fabric
Was the boiling temperature. FIG. 4 shows changes in the processing temperature between 70 ° C. and 200 ° C. and the shrinkage and the bulk height.

Further, after the woven fabric was relaxed and scoured, it was set at 180 ° C., subjected to an 18% alkali reduction treatment, subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a jet dyeing machine, and finally set at 160 ° C. The obtained woven fabric has swelling but has core hardness and poor resilience, and has a yarn length difference as shown in the woven fabric photograph shown in FIG. However, the structure was such that the high shrinkage yarn was present in a state of being pinched on the inner layer portion of the fabric.

[0031]

As described above, the polyester woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a soft feeling, swelling and resilience which cannot be obtained by the conventional technique by ordinary dyeing, and is rich in shirts, blouses, dresses and coats. Inexpensive materials that can be widely used for applications such as jackets, black formals, linings and quilted base fabrics, and walking and care clothing can be provided.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a graph showing a heat treatment behavior of dough in Example 1 of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a graph showing a heat treatment behavior of a dough in Example 2 of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the heat treatment behavior of the dough in Comparative Example 1 of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the heat treatment behavior of the dough in Comparative Example 2 of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a photograph of a cross-section of a fabric showing the shape of the fiber of the fabric after heat treatment in Example 1 of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a photograph of a cross-section of a woven fabric showing a fiber shape of the woven fabric after heat treatment in Example 2 of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a photograph of a cross-section of a woven fabric showing a fiber shape of the woven fabric after heat treatment in Comparative Example 1 of the present invention.

8 is a photograph of a cross-section of a woven fabric showing a fiber shape of the woven fabric after heat treatment in Comparative Example 2 of the present invention.

Continued on front page F-term (reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AC02 DA01 DA04 DA05 EA00 FA00 FA01 FA02 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA44 AA45 AA50 AB07 AB21 AC11 BA01 BA02 CA03 CA04 CA12 CA13 CA15 DA01 DA02 DA06 EB04 EB05

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven or knitted fabric composed of polyester multifilaments, wherein a temperature T (max) at which a maximum shrinkage rate is high in a direction of a high shrinkage rate in a vertical direction or a horizontal direction of the woven or knitted fabric is Tg-5 ° C. To Tg + 5 ° C. and satisfying the following relationships (a) and (b): (A) The relationship between the temperature and the shrinkage ratio in the direction in which the shrinkage ratio is high in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of the cloth between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a negative characteristic. (B) The relationship between the bulk height of fabric and the shrinkage ratio between T (max) ° C and 200 ° C is a positive characteristic. Here, Tg: glass transition point of polyester multifilament (° C.) Bulk height = thickness / basis weight (cm ³ / g) 2. The polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein when heated at 200 ° C., the shrinkage in the direction of the high shrinkage in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 35% or less. . 3. The polyester woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the difference between the fabric shrinkage at T (max) ° C. and 200 ° C. is 2% or more and 20% or less.