JP2000212846A - Polyester woven knitted goods excellent in color development - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide polyester woven and knitted goods excellent in deepness of color and clearness, and in addition, rich in dry feeling, bulky feeling and soft feeling. SOLUTION: The polyester woven and knitted goods are excellent in color development and provided by using at least >=50% of a conjugate yarn comprising >=2 kinds of multifilament yarns different in yarn legs by 10-25% and at least one filament constituting the multifilaments has scattering characteristics satisfying the following equations at the same time: TIS<=0.35 (TIS is an intensity fraction of regular reflection light out of an integrated intensity of the total reflection light), 0<δTIS<=0.25 (δTIS is a difference in TIS between the one obtained when the surface of the filament is coated with platinum and the original one), here, the thickness of the platinum film for coating the fiber is <=35 nm and the permeability of light of the fiber coated with platinum is <=30%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester woven or knitted fabric, and more particularly, to a surface light scattering which can exhibit excellent color-forming properties when a fabric using a self-stretched polyester mixed yarn is subjected to weight reduction processing and then dyed. The present invention relates to a polyester woven / knitted fabric having excellent three-dimensional three-dimensional structure and excellent color developability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fibers are easy to handle, have moderate wear durability, are more advantageous in terms of price than other synthetic fibers, and have an extremely wide use as clothing fibers. However, these polyester fibers also have some disadvantages because of their uniformity. That is, since the surface of the polyester fiber is smooth, it has a slimy and cool touch, and the color tone becomes a pastel whitish color and lacks coloring.

[0003] Therefore, polyester fibers which are soft, bulging, and have a warm feel like silk or cotton, and polyester fiber products having a deep color such as silk or wool, have been popular from consumers. Is desired.

As a method that has long been known as a method of deepening the color of polyester fibers, a method of roughening the fiber surface is disclosed in JP-B-57-89641 and JP-A-57-66.
No. 184, JP-B-59-24233, JP-B-62-6
No. 576 and the like. In any of the known techniques, by giving irregularities to the fiber surface and reducing the surface reflected light, there is a certain degree of dark color effect, but at present, a sufficient dark color effect has not been obtained. The reason is considered as follows. That is, when a human recognizes the color of the fiber, both the surface reflected light (colorless) and the internally reflected light (colored) are received as color stimuli. In other words, in order to improve the color developability of the fiber, it is necessary to suppress surface reflected light that does not contribute to coloring and hinder deep color, and to generate moderate internal reflected light that gives a vivid color. However, in the conventional method for improving the color developing property of the fiber, only the reflected light on the surface, ie, the improvement of the surface morphology, is considered, and the internal scattered light is not omitted. For this reason, it was not possible to give the fibers a sufficiently deep and bright color. Also, until now,
The quantitative relationship between the light scattering property at the filament level and the color development in the fabric was unknown.
This is one of the reasons why the reforming at the effective monofilament level could not be performed.

[0005] Further, in the prior art, only the coloring property is mainly improved, and from the viewpoint of improving the texture, a dry feeling is given. However, in the design of the fabric, the improvement of the texture is an essential issue for the polyester fabric as well as the improvement of the coloring property.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention seeks for ideal surface light scattering and light scattering from inside required for a monofilament, and provides excellent color development such as ideal deep color and glossiness. Applied at the fiber level and 3
It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester woven or knitted fabric having excellent coloring properties and silky soft texture which could not be obtained by giving a three-dimensional structure.

[0007]

The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems. As a result, the ratio of the regular reflection light intensity to the monofilament level total reflection light intensity is important for the color development. In addition, the present inventors have found that by imparting a three-dimensional structure to the fabric together with the fiber modification, a polyester woven / knitted fabric having both unprecedented excellent coloring and silky texture can be obtained, and the present invention has been achieved. That is, the present invention has the following configurations. That is, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using at least 50% or more of a composite yarn composed of two or more types of multifilament yarns having a yarn foot difference of 10% to 25%, wherein at least one of the multifilaments comprises It is a polyester woven / knitted fabric excellent in color developability, having a scattering property satisfying the formula at the same time. TIS ≦ 0.35 (Equation 1) (TIS: fraction of regular reflection light intensity in the total integrated light intensity of the filament) 0 <ΔTIS ≦ 0.25 (Equation 2) (ΔTIS: When platinum is coated on the surface of the filament (The difference between the TIS and the original TIS) However, the film thickness of platinum coating the fiber is 35 nm or less, and the light transmittance of the platinum-coated fiber is 30% or less. More specifically, the above-mentioned two or more kinds of multifilament yarns are obtained by heat-treating multifilaments satisfying the following formulas at the same time. . 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _L) <0% (Equation 3) 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _H) ≧ 0% (Equation 4) (SHD _L: most shrinkage of a composite yarn in the low multifilaments 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage) (SHD _H: red disperse dye (Resolin red Pu most 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage of the shrinkage rate is high multifilament) further the woven or knitted fabric with the composite yarn in
rple FBL200: manufactured by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.), wherein the polyester having excellent color developability described above has an L ^* value of 24.5 or less and a C ^* value of 60.0 or more. It is a woven or knitted fabric. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The polyester referred to in the present invention means that the main acid component is terephthalic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof,
The main glycol component is composed of ethylene glycol, but the acid component is 20 mol% or less of oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, etc. Dicarboxylic acids or ester-forming derivatives thereof, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 5- (alkali metal) sulfoisophthalic acid, diphenic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid Aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as 1,2-bis (phenoxy) ethane-p, p'-dicarboxylic acid or ester-forming derivatives thereof can also be included as copolymerization components. It may also contain an oxycarboxylic acid such as p- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzoic acid or an ester-forming derivative thereof in an amount of 20 mol% or less of the acid component.

As the glycol component, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-
Hexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol, 4,4′-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, 2,5-naphthalenediol Glycol to which ethylene oxide is added, polyethylene glycol and the like can be included.

In addition, small amounts of other optional polymers, antioxidants, antistatic agents, dye modifying agents, dyes, pigments, matting agents, fluorescent whitening agents, and other additives may be added to the polyester fiber in small amounts. An agent may be contained.

The method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric having excellent light-scattering properties in the present invention is as follows.
After melt-spinning at a take-up speed of 00 to 4000 m / min, it was passed through a stretching step or subjected to relaxation heat treatment to form a latent self-extensible filament, which was mixed with a high shrinkage yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 10% or more. Thereafter, it can be obtained by further passing each step of knitting, weaving, scouring, relaxing, presetting, and weight reduction.

The term "internal particles" as used herein means that when added to a polymerization system, it dissolves to give a uniform solution, but precipitates from the system during or after polymerization, and becomes fine on the fiber surface by solvent treatment after melt spinning. An additive that forms irregularities, specifically, salts of alkali metals and / or alkaline earth metals, for example, inorganic acids such as carbonic acid and sulfuric acid, aliphatic carboxylic acids such as formic acid, acetic acid, and propionic acid, and benzoic acid. Sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium and barium salts of aromatic carboxylic acids such as acids, oxycarboxylic acids such as methacrylic acid, and halogen-containing carboxylic acids such as trichloroacetic acid.

The external particles are defined as primary particles having an average diameter of 500 millimicrons or less, preferably less than 500 millimicrons, which is more finely divided than the particle size of a particulate inert substance conventionally used for fiber modification. 150 millimicron or less particulate inert material, specifically silica sol, dry silica fine particles, alumina sol, alumina fine particles, titanium oxide, calcium carbonate sol, calcium carbonate fine particles,
Examples include kaolin, mica, modified fine particles having improved dispersion stability of these fine particles, and other colloids of a particulate inert substance having a refractive index close to that of polyester. Preferred are silica sol, dry silica fine particles, kaolin, calcium carbonate sol, and calcium carbonate fine particles.

The composite yarn of the present invention is a hetero-shrinkage mixed fiber yarn composed of two or more kinds of multifilaments and having a yarn foot difference of 10 to 25%. If it is less than 10%, sufficient swelling cannot be expressed, the bulkiness is poor, a silky soft feeling cannot be obtained, and the effect of improving darkness is small. Conversely, if it exceeds 25%, it has an effect on darkness, but there is a practical problem that the feeling of shaking is large and a snag is easily generated. Preferably it is 15 to 23%. Further, it is preferable that the multifilament is obtained by heat-treating a multifilament satisfying the following formula. 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _L) <0% (Equation 3) 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _H) ≧ 0% (Equation 4) (SHD _L: most shrinkage of a composite yarn in the low multifilaments (160 ° C dry heat shrinkage) (SHD _H : 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage of the multifilament having the highest shrinkage in the composite yarn) This is a fiber that has a very bulky structure due to heat treatment even among different shrinkage mixed yarns. This is because the efficiency of light absorption into the interior can be increased, and, as a result, deep color is imparted.

Further, by using a composite yarn satisfying the formulas (3) and (4), it becomes possible to obtain a silky texture in addition to a deep color.

The light scattering property of at least one of the multifilaments constituting the composite yarn used in the polyester woven or knitted fabric in the present invention must satisfy the following expression.
If it exceeds 35, the specular reflection component becomes too large, and light does not sufficiently enter the inside of the fiber, so that satisfactory darkness and sharpness cannot be obtained. It is preferably 0.3 or less, more preferably 0.1.
25 or less. TIS ≦ 0.35 (Equation 1) (TIS: specular reflected light intensity fraction in integrated intensity of total reflected light of monofilament)

Further, the present inventors have found that factors of the light scattering characteristics at the monofilament level which affect the color development of the fabric include not only surface reflected light scattering but also internal light scattering characteristics. This internal light scattering property is based on the T
The evaluation can be made based on the difference between IS and the TIS before coating, that is, ΔTIS, and ΔTIS needs to satisfy the following expression.
If it exceeds 0.25, light scattering due to the additive is large, the dull effect becomes large, and the coloring property, particularly sharpness, is poor, which is not preferable. More preferably, 0 <ΔTIS ≦ 0.2. 0 <ΔTIS ≦ 0.25 (Equation 2)

A woven or knitted fabric using a filament satisfying the above formulas (1) and (2) is excellent in sharpness and the like, and among them, the L ^* value is 24.5 or less and the C ^* value is 60.0 or more. It is preferably a woven or knitted fabric. The L ^* value is a measure of darkness and the C ^* value is a measure of sharpness. If the L ^* value exceeds 24.5, the dyed fabric looks whitish and lacks darkness. Preferably it is 24.0 or less. On the other hand, when the C ^* value is less than 60.0, the sharpness is poor. Preferably it is 62.0 or more. As described above, according to the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric having excellent color developing properties and texture, which has not been available conventionally, can be obtained by the synergistic effect of the modification at the level of one filament and the three-dimensional structure at the multifilament level. .

[0019]

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(Yarn length difference)
Cut to 0mm length, high shrink yarn denier x 0.1g /
The yarn length (SL) under a load of d is measured.
In this state, the core yarn is cut while leaving the slack sheath yarn, and a load of 0.1 g / d of denier of the self-extended yarn is applied to measure the yarn length (LL) again. Ask for. Yarn length difference (%) = {(LL-SL) / SL} x 100

(Evaluation of Light Scattering Characteristics: TIS) Here, the TIS of a single fiber, which is important in the present invention, is determined by the following measurement. FIG. 2 is an external view of the apparatus,
FIG. 1 shows the relationship between the sample, incident light, and measured reflected light. FIG.
Medium, 1. He-Ne laser (wavelength 632.8 nm), 2. Polarizer, 3. Half mirror, 4. Goniometer, 5.
mm) Photodiode, 7. Sample (single fiber). On the other hand, in Fig. 1, 7. sample (single fiber), 8. pinhole
(1 mmφ) photodiode, 9. incident light, 10. measured reflected light. Hereinafter, the measurement method will be described in detail.

An unstained monofilament was placed on a sample stage on a goniometer so that the fiber axis was parallel to the ground, and a He-Ne laser having a wavelength of 632.8 nm was irradiated. However, in the case of the modified cross-section yarn, the intensity of the specular reflection light was measured while rotating the single fiber, and the laser was incident on the surface giving the highest intensity of the specular reflection light. The laser light and the monofilament were arranged such that the plane formed by the laser light and the fiber axis was parallel to the ground. 0.8 to monofilament
A 2.0 g load was applied to the sample stage to eliminate slack. The incident light was converted into S-polarized light using a polarizing plate, and the incident angle was 8 degrees from the normal direction of the fiber axis. A part of the incident light was branched by a half mirror, and the intensity was measured by a photodiode, and it was monitored whether the intensity of the incident light fluctuated. The reflected light intensity was measured while changing the angle with a photodiode. The photodiode was set at the same height in parallel with the laser and the laser irradiation part on the sample.
However, a pinhole having a diameter of 1 mm is attached to the photodiode 6 at a position approximately 60 mm from the photodiode light receiving surface. A hood was attached between the light receiving surface and the pinhole so that reflected light from other than the monofilament was not received. The distance from the sample irradiation part of the laser to the pinhole was about 66 mm. In such an apparatus, the angle dependence of the reflected light intensity is measured in the angle range of 8 to 80 degrees from the normal direction of the fiber axis, and the specular reflected light accounts for the total integrated intensity of the reflected light intensity in the entire angle range. Defined as intensity fraction TIS. However, the specular reflected light intensity was reflected light that appeared in a region of 8 to 10 degrees from the fiber axis normal direction.

(Evaluation of Light Scattering Characteristics: ΔTIS) ΔTIS is the difference between the TIS of a monofilament whose surface is coated with platinum and the TIS of the monofilament itself. The monofilament platinum coat was applied by a sputtering method. Platinum was monofilament tough, and the coating speed was 0.5 to 3 Å / sec from a position of about 30 mm. The platinum film thickness was 35 nm or less. This film thickness is a condition under which the light transmittance becomes 30% or less when similarly coated on a cover glass.

(Evaluation of Coloring Property) The coloring property of the cloth was measured by measuring the obtained woven or knitted fabric under the conditions of a measuring diameter of 8 mmφ, a light source D65, and a visual field of 2 ° using a spectrophotometer (Minolta CM-3700D).
^{* The} value was measured three times and evaluated by the average value. The sharpness was measured by measuring the a ^* value and the b ^* value, respectively, and was evaluated by the C ^* value obtained by the following equation. ^{C * = {(a *)} 2 + (b *) 2} 1/2

(Evaluation of Hand) The feel of the product was judged by three dyeing technicians who had long experience in evaluating the hand and irritability of the polyester fabric.

[0026]

(Example 1) A dry silica fine particle having a primary particle diameter of 30 nm was mixed with polyethylene terephthalate containing terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component in an amount of 1.0% by weight based on the polymer. A highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning the obtained polymer at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3100 m / min is passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C., stretched 1.7 times, and then drawn at 200 ° C. Processing speed 540 by non-contact type heater
m / min, a relaxation heat treatment at an overfeed rate of 43.5% to give a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 4.5%
A self-extended yarn of 0 denier 18 filaments was obtained. At the same time, using the same polymer, a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1
An undrawn yarn having a round cross section obtained by melt-spinning at 600 m / min.
A 30 denier 18 filament high shrinkage yarn (16) obtained by passing through a hot roller at 0 ° C. and stretching 3.0 times.
(Dry heat shrinkage at 0 ° C is 36%) and 60 denier 3
A 6-filament self-extended mixed yarn was obtained.

An S twist of 600 turns / m is imparted to the obtained mixed yarn, and this is used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, and these are alternately driven to form a plain-textured fabric. After drying, heat-relaxing and presetting, the mixture was treated with a 50 g / l caustic soda solution to reduce the weight by 20% by weight.

Thereafter, this fabric was treated with a disperse dye (Resolin Red Purple) having a bath ratio of 1:50 and a dye concentration of 4.0% owf.
FBL200: Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) 130 ℃, 6
It was dyed for 0 minutes and then final set to obtain a finished cloth. The fabric was excellent in darkness and clarity, had a dry feeling, and was soft and full of swelling.

Example 2 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fine particles of dry silica added to the polymer were replaced with colloidal silica having a primary particle diameter of 10 to 30 nm. The fabric was excellent in darkness and clarity, had a dry feeling, and was soft and rich.

Example 3 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 0.1 mol% of lithium acetate was added to the polymer in addition to the dry silica fine particles. The fabric was excellent in darkness and clarity, had a dry feeling, and was soft and full of swelling.

Example 4 A polyethylene terephthalate containing terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component was mixed with 1.0% by weight of dry silica fine particles having a primary particle diameter of 30 nm based on the polymer. The highly oriented unstretched yarn obtained by melt-spinning at 275 ° C and a take-up speed of 1600 m / min using the obtained polymer was passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C and a hot plate at 150 ° C and stretched 3.0 times. A 30-denier 18-filament low-shrink yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 4.5% was obtained. At the same time, using the same polymer, the spinning temperature is 275.
2. The undrawn yarn having a round cross section obtained by melt-spinning at 1600 m / min at a take-up speed of 1600 m / min is passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C.
The fiber was mixed with a high-density 30-denier 18-filament yarn obtained by drawing 0 times (dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 36%) to obtain a 60-denier 36-filament hetero-shrink mixed yarn.

Comparative Example 1 A fabric was obtained in exactly the same manner as in Example 1, except that regular polyethylene terephthalate containing no additive was used for both the self-extending yarn and the high shrinkage yarn. The fabric was soft and full of swelling, but lacked dryness, darkness, and clarity.

(Comparative Example 2) Except for using a self-stretched yarn having a dry heat shrinkage of 2.1% at 160 ° C manufactured at an overfeed rate of 23.5% during the relaxation heat treatment, the same as Example 1 was used. Fabric was obtained by the method. The fabric had a dry feeling, but lacked both darkness and softness.

Comparative Example 3 A fabric was produced in exactly the same manner as in Example 1 except that a self-stretched yarn having a dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. of 12% manufactured at an overfeed rate of 60% during the relaxation heat treatment was used. I got The fabric was excellent in darkness, clarity, and dryness, but had a large fluttering feeling, and was liable to generate snags, which was a problem in wearing.

Comparative Example 4 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the amount of the dry silica fine particles was 0.5% by weight based on the polymer. The fabric was soft and full of swelling, but lacked darkness, clarity and dryness.

[0036]

[Table 1]

[0037]

[Table 2]

[0038]

According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a polyester woven / knitted fabric which is excellent in darkness and clarity, has a dry feeling, and has a fullness and a soft feeling.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a relationship between a sample and incident / reflected light.

FIG. 2 is an external view of a scattering measurement device.

[Explanation of symbols]

1. He-Ne laser (wavelength 632.8 nm), 2. Polarizer, 3. Half mirror, 4. Goniometer, 5. 6. Photodiode with pinhole (diameter 1 mm), 7. Sample (single fiber), 8. Pinhole
(1 mmφ) photodiode, 9. Incident light, 10. Measured reflected light

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA33 MA39 MA40 PA33 RA03 UA01 UA16 UA30 4L048 AA20 AA21 AA42 AA50 AA56 AB07 AB09 AB18 AC01 AC12 BA01 BA02 CA00 CA20 EB04

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A composite yarn comprising two or more types of multifilament yarns having a yarn foot difference of 10% to 25% at least 5%.
A woven or knitted fabric excellent in color developability, wherein 0% or more of the woven or knitted fabric is used, wherein at least one of the filaments constituting the multifilament has scattering properties satisfying the following formulas at the same time. TIS ≦ 0.35 (Equation 1) (TIS: fraction of regular reflection light intensity in the total integrated light intensity of the filament) 0 <ΔTIS ≦ 0.25 (Equation 2) (ΔTIS: When platinum is coated on the surface of the filament (The difference between the TIS and the original TIS) However, the film thickness of platinum coating the fiber is 35 nm or less, and the light transmittance of the platinum-coated fiber is 30% or less. 2. The polyester woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the two or more kinds of multifilament yarns are obtained by heat-treating multifilament yarns satisfying the following formulas simultaneously. knitting. 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _L) <0% (Equation 3) 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage (SHD _H) ≧ 0% (Equation 4) (SHD _L: most shrinkage of a composite yarn in the low multifilaments 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage) (SHD _H: 160 ℃ dry heat shrinkage ratio of the high multifilaments most shrinkage of a composite yarn in) 3. The woven or knitted fabric having an L ^* value of 24.5 or less and a C ^* value of 60.0 or more.
Polyester woven / knitted fabric excellent in the described color developability.