JP2001123357A - Deep color dyed and highly craped woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To efficiently and inexpensively obtain a polyester woven fabric excellent in a craping property and also deepness of color. SOLUTION: This deep color dyed and highly craped woven fabric is a woven fabric made of polyester multifilaments. Warps and wefts both constituting the fabric are composed of polyester multifilaments each having fine ruggedness in a count of 10-50 per 10 μm of a planar distance perpendicular to a fiber axis in the direction of outer periphery of a fiber in the surface of the fiber. Low shrinkage polyester multifilaments meeting formulas (1) SHW (%) <=5.0 (wherein SHW is a shrinkage percentage when treated in boiling water at 100 deg.C for 30 min) and (2) IS (g/d)>=70 (wherein IS is an initial tensile modulus after treated in boiling water) are used as at least one of the warp and the weft.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester fabric excellent in darkness and graininess.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester fibers are easy to handle, have moderate wear durability, are more advantageous in terms of price than other synthetic fibers, and have an extremely wide use as clothing fibers. However, these polyester fibers also have some disadvantages because of their uniformity. That is, since the surface of the polyester fiber is smooth, it has a slimy and cool touch feeling, and further has a problem that the hue becomes a pastel-like whitish color and lacks darkness.

[0003] Also, as represented by ancient crepe,
Products having irregularities on the surface of the fabric, called grain, have long been popular among various needs of consumers in order to express a unique texture. It is desired by consumers for high durability and low price that such products having grain are made of synthetic fibers, but these are originally special products made of silk fiber, It is difficult for polyester for clothing to express the same texture and color tone due to the difference in fiber surface and also the difference in color development, and the development of silk-like high grain polyester products has been a subject for many years.

As a method for deepening the color of polyester fibers, a method of roughening the fiber surface (Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-8964).
No. 1, JP-A-57-66184, JP-B-59
No. 24233, Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 62-6576), but the focus was on improving the darkness of the fiber itself, and it was not at a satisfactory level in terms of the darkness of the final product.

As another method, a method of coating a fiber surface with a compound having a low refractive index (JP-B-61-35309, JP-B-62-46672, and JP-B-57-53)
No. 474) and a method of chemically modifying a polymer (Japanese Patent No. 2503989). There are some effects in terms of improvement of darkness in any of the known techniques, but industrial productivity and There is a problem that the manufacturing cost is high.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention overcomes the above-mentioned problems of the prior art and economically provides a high grain polyester fabric having a high darkness which has not been achieved by the conventional method. The purpose is to efficiently manufacture.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configurations. That is, the present invention relates to a woven fabric composed of polyester multifilaments, wherein the warp and the weft constituting the woven fabric are finely divided at a density of 10 to 50 per 10 micron per plane distance in the fiber outer peripheral direction perpendicular to the fiber axis on the fiber surface. A dark-colored high grain fabric comprising a polyester multifilament having irregularities, and wherein at least one of a warp and a weft uses a low-shrinkage polyester multifilament satisfying the following formulas (1) and (2). . SHW (%) ≦ 5.0 (1) IS (g / d) ≧ 70 (2) (where, SHW is a shrinkage rate when treated in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and IS is an IS after the boiling water treatment. Specifically, each of the fine concave portions present on the fiber surface satisfies the following formulas (3) to (5). And 0.05 micron ≤ W ≤ 1.0 micron (3) 0.5 micron ≤ L ≤ 4.0 micron (4) 0.2 micron ≤ X ≤ 0.7 micron (5) L represents a major axis diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. The dark-colored high grain fabric described above, wherein the single yarn fineness of the low-shrink multifilament of at least one of the warp and the weft constituting the fabric is 1.5 denier or less.

The polyester in the present invention is a polyester in which the main acid component is terephthalic acid or an ester derivative thereof, and the main glycol component is ethylene glycol, and the acid component is 20 mol% or less of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid or an ester thereof. Forming derivatives, aromatic dicarboxylic acids or their ester forming derivatives can be included as copolymerization components. Also, 20 mol% of the acid component
The following oxycarboxylic acids or ester-forming derivatives thereof can also be included. As the glycol component, 20 mol% or less of propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, 1,10-decamethylene glycol,
It can include 4,4-dihydroxybisphenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, 2,5-naphthalenediol, glycols obtained by adding ethylene oxide to these glycols, polyethylene glycol, and the like.

[0009] These polyester fibers may contain a small amount of other optional polymers, antioxidants, antistatic agents, dye improvers, dyes, pigments and other additives.

The polymer used in the production of the dark polyester mixed yarn and woven fabric of the present invention is a polyester containing an inorganic fine pore-forming agent. Examples of the fine pore-forming agent include colloidal silica, dry silica fine particles, Either alumina fine particles or titanium oxide may be used. Colloidal silica or dry silica fine particles are more preferable in terms of the ability to form fine pores, and the particle diameter of the fine particles is preferably 20 nm or more from the viewpoint of dispersibility.
120 nm is preferred. In addition, the addition amount is 0.3 to
If it is less than 0.3% by weight, the fine pore forming ability is lacking, and if it exceeds 5% by weight, the spinning operability deteriorates.

[0011] The polyester fabric of the present invention having excellent darkness can be prepared by, for example, spinning the above polymer at a spinning temperature of 265 ° C to 290 ° C.
The multifilament obtained by melt-spinning in the range of 1000 m / min to 2500 m / min at 70 ° C.
After performing two-stage drawing with a preheating roller of 100 to 150 ° C., a hot plate of 100 to 150 ° C., and a hot roller of 200 to 230 ° C., twisting, and then producing as a warp or a weft, or using only a weft, a warp Can be obtained by using a self-extended mixed fiber.

In the present invention, it is necessary that the surface of the multifilament forming the polyester fabric has fine irregularities at a density of 10 to 50 per 10 micron plane distance in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis. If the number is less than 5, the surface reflected light increases and the dark color effect is low.
If it exceeds 0, the effect of deep color is large, but fluff is likely to be generated in the subsequent process, and the process passability is poor. Further, it is necessary to increase the addition amount of the fine pore-forming agent, which undesirably lowers the operability in the spinning process. More preferably, the number is 12 to 50 per 10 microns.

Further, the shrinkage ratio (SHW) of the polyester multifilament in boiling water must be 5.0% or less, and if it exceeds 5.0, it is not preferable because of lack of dimensional stability. More preferably, it is 4.0% or less. Further, the initial elastic modulus (IS) of the polyester multifilament is required to be 70 g / d or more.
If it is less than 0 g / d, the graininess is low, which is not preferable.
It is more preferably at least 72 g / d. As a means for improving IS, a polymer having a high degree of polymerization can be used.

The fine irregularities present on the fiber surface of the polyester multifilament constituting the polyester fabric in the present invention must satisfy the following conditions (3) to (5): 0.05 micron ≦ W ≦ 1.0 μm (3) 0.5 μm ≦ L ≦ 4.0 μm (4) 0.2 μm ≦ X ≦ 0.7 μm (5) (W represents the minor axis diameter of the concave portion, L represents the major axis Represents the diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. If the above condition is not satisfied, the effect of suppressing the surface reflected light is insufficient and the color is not darkened.

In addition, the single-filament fineness of the low-shrinkage polyester multifilament of at least one of the warp and the weft constituting the dark-colored high-grain woven fabric of the present invention is desirably 1.5 denier or less, and when it exceeds 1.5 denier. It is not preferable because the twist setting property of the twisted yarn becomes low, and the fabric tends to be twisted. It is effective to increase the heat setting temperature in the stretching step to increase the crystallinity in order to suppress the generation of the twist, but it is not preferable because the deterioration of the yarn is promoted. Therefore, it is effective to improve the setability by lowering the single-filament fineness, and more preferably to 1.3 denier or less, the effect of suppressing generation of stiffness is high.

[0016]

The present invention will be described below with reference to examples. The method used for the evaluation of the present invention is as follows.

(SHW) A load equivalent to denier x 1/30 g was applied, the length of the original yarn was marked in advance at 50.0 cm, wrapped in gauze, immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes, air-dried, and then subjected to the same load. And measure the length (L) between the marks,
It was calculated by the following equation. SHW (%) = 100 × (50−L) / 50

(IS) Gauge length 200m in Tensilon
m, a tensile test was performed at a crosshead speed of 200 mm / min, and the resulting SS curve was evaluated based on the initial elastic modulus.

(Number and Size of Micropores) An enlarged photograph of ten monofilaments taken at 7000 × by a scanning electron microscope (SEM) was taken, and micropores having a plane distance of 10 μm in the direction of the outer periphery of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis were taken. Was measured and evaluated by an average value of 10 pieces. In addition, the size of the micropores was randomly selected from 30 micropores present on the fiber surface, and the short axis and long axis of the recesses, as well as the length between the centers of adjacent recesses, were measured and evaluated by the average value.

(Dark Color) The dark color of the fabric is measured by stacking eight woven fabrics, and using a spectrophotometer (Minolta CM-3700).
According to d), the L ^* value was measured three times under the conditions of a measurement diameter of 8 mmφ, a light source of D65, and a visual field of 2 °, and the average was evaluated.

(Evaluation of Cracking) Three dyeing technicians with long experience in evaluating the texture of a polyester fabric judge the creasing of the product.

[0022]

EXAMPLES Example 1 Spinning using a polymer obtained by mixing 2.5% by weight of silica with polymer in polyethylene terephthalate in which terephthalic acid is used as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol is used as a glycol component. The undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at a temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min is heated at 75 ° C.
After passing through a hot plate at 2.degree. C. and drawing at a ratio of 2.627 times, a 3.6% overfeed was performed with a hot roller at 220.degree. C. to obtain a drawn yarn of 70 denier and 72 filaments.

The obtained drawn yarn is given an SZ twist of 2500 times / m, and is used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to form a flat-structured georgette fabric which is alternately driven into the fabric. After scouring, dry heat relaxation, presetting, and treatment with a 30 g / l caustic soda solution to reduce the weight by 20%, a disperse dye (Dianix Black BG-FS 200%, bath ratio 1:50, dye concentration 15.0% owf) ) At 130 ° C, 6
It was dyed for 0 minutes and then final set to obtain a finished cloth. A fabric having a high grain size, excellent darkness, and a dry feel was obtained.

Example 2 Spinning temperature using a polymer obtained by blending 2.5% by weight of silica with polymer in polyethylene terephthalate having terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component A highly oriented undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 3100 m / min is drawn 1.7 times with a hot roller at 80 ° C., and then processed at a processing speed of 540 m / min by a non-contact heater. A 30 denier 18 filament self-extended yarn obtained by performing a relaxation heat treatment at a feed rate of 43.5% is used as a warp, and is melt-spun using the same polymer at a spinning temperature of 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min. The obtained undrawn yarn is passed through a hot roller at 80 ° C. and drawn 3.0 times to obtain a high-shrinkage yarn of 30 denier and 18 filaments. And commingled 60 resulting denier 3
The 6-filament self-extending mixed yarn is twisted at 300 T / m and used for warp, and the number of twists of the strongly twisted yarn used for weft is 30.
A decin fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the flow rate was changed to 00 T / m. The resulting fabric had high grain, and was excellent in darkness and dry feel.

(Comparative Example 1) Spinning temperature using a polymer obtained by blending 2.5% by weight of silica with polyethylene terephthalate containing terephthalic acid as a carboxylic acid component and ethylene glycol as a glycol component The undrawn yarn obtained by melt-spinning at 270 ° C. and a take-up speed of 1500 m / min is heated at 80 ° C.
A drawn yarn obtained by passing through a hot plate at 2.7 ° C. and being stretched 2.7 times was twisted at 2500 T / m, and a fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was used for warp and weft. Although the fabric was excellent in darkness, the fabric lacked graininess.

Comparative Example 2 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a drawn yarn was obtained by passing through a hot roller at 80 ° C. and a hot plate at 170 ° C. in the drawing step. Although the obtained fabric was excellent in darkness, it was liable to generate a lot of swelling and lacked in graininess.

Comparative Example 3 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polymer containing no silica was used. The resulting fabric had good grain standing and a dry feel, but lacked dark color.

[0028]

[Table 1]

[0029]

According to the present invention, it is possible to efficiently and inexpensively produce a polyester fabric which is excellent in graininess, has a dry feeling and is excellent in darkness.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric composed of polyester multifilaments, wherein the warp and weft constituting the woven fabric are finely divided at a density of 10 to 50 per 10 micron per plane distance in the outer circumferential direction of the fiber perpendicular to the fiber axis on the fiber surface. A dark-colored high grain fabric comprising a polyester multifilament having irregularities and at least one of a warp and a weft using a low shrinkage polyester multifilament satisfying the following formulas (1) and (2). SHW (%) ≦ 5.0 (1) IS (g / d) ≧ 70 (2) (where, SHW is a shrinkage rate when treated in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes, and IS is an IS after the boiling water treatment. (Indicates the initial tensile modulus.) 2. The fine concave portion present on the fiber surface satisfies the following formulas (3) to (5).
The deep-colored high grain fabric described in the above. 0.05 μm ≦ W ≦ 1.0 μm (3) 0.5 μm ≦ L ≦ 4.0 μm (4) 0.2 μm ≦ X ≦ 0.7 μm (5) (W is the minor axis diameter of the concave portion And L represents a major axis diameter.
X represents the distance between the centers of adjacent recesses. ) 3. The low shrinkage multifilament of at least one of a warp and a weft constituting a woven fabric has a single yarn fineness of 1.
2. The dark-colored high grain fabric according to claim 1, wherein the density is 5 denier or less.