JP2000170061A - Windbreaking knitted fabric - Google Patents

Windbreaking knitted fabric

Info

Publication number
JP2000170061A
JP2000170061A JP10351524A JP35152498A JP2000170061A JP 2000170061 A JP2000170061 A JP 2000170061A JP 10351524 A JP10351524 A JP 10351524A JP 35152498 A JP35152498 A JP 35152498A JP 2000170061 A JP2000170061 A JP 2000170061A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
shrinkage
heat
air permeability
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP10351524A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Ikuhiko Fukumori
郁彦 福森
Hideo Ikenaga
秀雄 池永
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd filed Critical Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Priority to JP10351524A priority Critical patent/JP2000170061A/en
Publication of JP2000170061A publication Critical patent/JP2000170061A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a knitted fabric with excellent windbreaking and thermal insulation performance, having puffy feeling, soft touch and lightweight feeling without impairing the characteristics inherent therein, therefore suitable as a piece of autumn/winter clothing. SOLUTION: This knitted fabric is composed of heteroshrink composite multifilament yarns >=5% in thermal shrinkage difference; wherein the low- shrink constituent multifilament yarns is composed of single filaments each having a modified cross-section shape >=1.2 in peripheral length ratio Lr. This knitted fabric has a cover factor of 15,000-60,000 and air permeability of <=70 cc/cm2/sec.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、一般衣料、スポー
ツ衣料などに用いられる防風性編地に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a windproof knitted fabric used for general clothing, sports clothing and the like.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】一般に、編地は織物などに比べて通気性
が非常に高く、秋冬物として用いた場合、風が通り易
く、着用者が寒く感じるという欠点をもっている。低い
通気性を有する衣料用編地は、編地を高密度で編立てる
ことによって得ることができる。しかし、編機のゲージ
に限界があるので、高密度に編立てて通気性の低減した
編地を得る方法には限界がある。
2. Description of the Related Art Generally, a knitted fabric has a very high air permeability as compared with a woven fabric or the like, and has a drawback that when used as a fall / winter product, the wind easily passes and a wearer feels cold. A knitted fabric for clothing having low air permeability can be obtained by knitting the knitted fabric at a high density. However, there is a limit to the gauge of the knitting machine, and there is a limit to a method of knitting at a high density to obtain a knitted fabric with reduced air permeability.

【0003】衣料用編地の上述の欠点を解消するため
に、編地の通気性を低減させる方法がいくつか提案され
ている。その一つに、編地の裏面に樹脂をコーティング
したり、フィルムを貼り合わせたりする方法がある。例
えば、実開昭63−50891号公報には、異ゲージか
らなる両面編地の高ゲージ編地側の表面に樹脂コーティ
ングを適用して通気性を低下させて、防風性と保温性を
付与した編地が記載されている。しかし、この方法は通
気性を低減させる効果は大きいものの、編地の風合いを
粗硬なものにしてしまうし、編地本来の伸縮性も低下さ
せてしまう欠点がある。
[0003] In order to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages of knitted fabrics for clothing, several methods for reducing the air permeability of the knitted fabric have been proposed. One of the methods is to coat the back surface of the knitted fabric with a resin or attach a film. For example, Japanese Utility Model Laid-Open No. 63-50891 discloses a resin coating applied to the surface of a high-gauge knitted fabric of a double-gauge knitted fabric made of different gauges to reduce air permeability and impart windproofness and heat retention. The knitted fabric is described. However, although this method has a great effect of reducing the air permeability, it has a drawback that the texture of the knitted fabric is made coarse and hard, and the inherent elasticity of the knitted fabric is also reduced.

【0004】編地の裏面に高密度織物を積層して通気性
を低下させる試みも知られている。この着想による編地
は、通気性は低下しているが、編地が嵩張り、また編地
本来の伸縮性が活かされなくなる。特公昭58−773
8号公報に記載されるように、編地にカレンダー加工を
適用する方法も知られている。この方法は弾性繊維糸と
嵩高捲縮加工糸との複合糸を緯糸としてコース方向の編
目間に挿入した編地をカレンダー加工することにより、
編目内に伸縮性複合糸が広がった状態でセットされ、編
目の空隙を塞いで細分化することによって通気性を低下
させる着想である。しかし、この方法では、加熱加圧加
工をうけるので、編地の外観、風合い等が損なわれるこ
とになる。
[0004] Attempts to reduce air permeability by laminating a high-density woven fabric on the back surface of a knitted fabric are also known. Although the air permeability of the knitted fabric based on this idea is reduced, the knitted fabric is bulky and the original elasticity of the knitted fabric cannot be utilized. Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-773
As described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 8 (KOKAI) No. 8, a method of applying calendering to a knitted fabric is also known. This method calenders a knitted fabric inserted between stitches in the course direction as a weft using a composite yarn of an elastic fiber yarn and a bulky crimped yarn,
The idea is that the stretchable composite yarn is set in a state where the stretchable composite yarn is spread in the stitch, and the air permeability is reduced by closing the gap of the stitch and dividing the stitch. However, in this method, since the fabric is subjected to heat and pressure processing, the appearance, texture, and the like of the knitted fabric are impaired.

【0005】実公昭62−11981号公報には、高捲
縮加工糸を編地の構成糸として用いる方法が開示されて
いる。この方法は、両面編地の内層ループと外層ループ
とを高捲縮加工糸で編成して、編地組織の空隙を高捲縮
加工糸により低下させるものである。この着想によれ
ば、ソフトな風合いをもつ編地で通気性の低い編地を得
ることができるが、得られる編地の通気性の低減効果は
小さい。
Japanese Utility Model Publication No. Sho 62-11981 discloses a method in which a highly crimped yarn is used as a constituent yarn of a knitted fabric. In this method, the inner layer loop and the outer layer loop of a double-sided knitted fabric are knitted with a high crimped yarn, and the voids in the knitted fabric structure are reduced by the high crimped yarn. According to this idea, a knitted fabric having a soft texture can be used to obtain a knitted fabric with low air permeability, but the effect of reducing the air permeability of the obtained knitted fabric is small.

【0006】実用新案登録第2567438号公報に
は、高収縮糸を用いる方法が提案されている。この方法
は肌面に高収縮糸または高収縮糸と仮撚加工糸をエアー
混繊した複合加工糸を用いて得られた編地を熱処理する
ことによって編地面のカバーファクターを高めることに
より、通気性を低減せて肌触り良好な編地を得る着想で
ある。しかし、この方法では、高収縮糸単独ではカバー
ファクターを上げて通気性を低減できても風合いが粗硬
なものとなる。また、複合加工糸では、仮撚加工糸に通
常の糸(一般的に丸断面単糸で構成される高捲縮糸)を
用いるため、カバーファクターを大きくして通気性を低
減させて肌触りの良好な編地を得ようとしても、膨ら
み、ソフトタッチ性に欠け、加工糸特有のふかついた風
合いの編地となるので、衣料用として充分なものとはい
えない。
Japanese Utility Model Registration No. 2567438 proposes a method using a high shrinkage yarn. This method heat-treats a knitted fabric obtained using air-blended high-shrinkage yarns or high-shrinkage yarns and false-twisted yarns on the skin surface to increase the cover factor of the knitted ground, thereby improving ventilation. The idea is to obtain a knitted fabric with good touch by reducing the properties. However, in this method, even when the high shrink yarn alone can increase the cover factor to reduce the air permeability, the texture becomes coarse and hard. In addition, in the case of the composite yarn, since a normal yarn (generally a high crimped yarn composed of a single yarn having a round cross section) is used as the false twisting yarn, the cover factor is increased to reduce the air permeability, and Even if an attempt is made to obtain a good knitted fabric, the knitted fabric has a swelling property, lacks soft touch properties, and has a rich texture unique to processed yarn, and thus cannot be said to be sufficient for clothing.

【0007】[0007]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明はかかる従来の
問題点に鑑みて、編地の伸縮特性を損なうことなく膨ら
み・ソフトタッチ感、軽量感を持った、防風保温性能に
優れる編地を提供することを目的とする。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the above-mentioned problems, the present invention provides a knitted fabric which has a swelling / soft touch feeling and a light weight feeling and which is excellent in windproof and heat insulating performance without impairing the stretch characteristics of the knitted fabric. The purpose is to provide.

【0008】[0008]

【課題を解決するための手段】すなわち本発明は、編地
の少なくとも一層が熱収縮率差5%以上を有する異収縮
複合糸条で構成された編地であって、該複合糸条を構成
する低収縮成分糸が下記式で求める周長比Lrが1.2
以上である異型断面形状の単糸からなるマルチフィラメ
ン糸からなり、該複合糸条を用いた編地層のカバーファ
クターが15000〜60000、かつ編地の通気度が
70cc/cm2 /sec以下であることを特徴とする
防風性編地である Lr=L1 /L2 (但し、式中L1 は低収縮成分糸の単糸周長(cm)を
表し、L2 は低収縮成分糸の単糸断面積S1 (cm2
と同一面積の円形断面の周長(cm)を表し、L 2 =2
×(π×S1 0.5 で算出される)。
That is, the present invention relates to a knitted fabric.
Having at least one layer of a heat shrinkage difference of 5% or more
A knitted fabric composed of a composite yarn, the composite yarn comprising
The circumferential ratio Lr obtained by the following equation is 1.2.
Multifilament consisting of a single yarn of irregular cross section
Cover yarn of a knitted fabric layer using the composite yarn.
15,000 to 60,000 and the air permeability of the knitted fabric is
70cc / cmTwo/ Sec or less
Lr = L which is a windproof knitted fabric1/ LTwo (However, L in the formula1Is the single yarn circumference (cm) of the low shrinkage component yarn
Represents, LTwoIs the cross-sectional area S of the single yarn of the low shrinkage component yarn.1(CmTwo)
Represents the circumference (cm) of a circular section having the same area as Two= 2
× (π × S1)0.5Is calculated.)

【0009】本発明による防風性編地は、通気度(JI
S L1096のフラジール法による)が70cc/c
2 /sec以下、好ましくは50cc/cm2 /se
c以下のものである。通気度が70cc/cm2 /se
cを超えると、有風時(特に寒気の強風状態)での着用
では冷たい風が衣服内に入り込み寒さに耐え難いものと
なる。
The windproof knitted fabric according to the present invention has an air permeability (JI
70cc / c by SL1096 Frazier method)
m 2 / sec or less, preferably 50cc / cm 2 / se
c or less. Air permeability is 70 cc / cm 2 / se
If c is exceeded, when worn in a windy state (especially in a strong cold wind), a cold wind will enter the clothes and become difficult to withstand the cold.

【0010】本発明に係る編地は、一層あるいは二層以
上の編地からなり、横編、丸編、経編などの各種編組織
を用いて調製することができ、用途に応じて適宜選定す
ればよい。本発明では、編地の少なくとも一層を熱収縮
率差5%以上を有する異収縮複合糸条で構成する。この
複合糸条による層は、編地全体を、あるいは編地の片面
層、両面層あるいは中層に構成、あるいはこれらいずれ
かの層にインレイされて構成されたものであることがで
きる。この複合糸条は、低収縮成分糸と高収縮成分糸と
からなり、両糸の相互間の熱収縮率差は5%以上、好ま
しくは10〜25%とする。この複合糸条は、少なくと
も二種の糸が熱収縮率差5%以上を満たしていれば3種
以上の糸構成であってもよい。
[0010] The knitted fabric according to the present invention comprises one or more layers of knitted fabric and can be prepared using various knitting structures such as flat knitting, circular knitting, warp knitting and the like. do it. In the present invention, at least one layer of the knitted fabric is composed of a different shrinkage composite yarn having a difference in heat shrinkage of 5% or more. The layer of the composite yarn can be constituted by the entire knitted fabric, or a single-sided layer, a double-sided layer, or a middle layer of the knitted fabric, or a layer formed by inlaying any of these layers. This composite yarn is composed of a low shrinkage component yarn and a high shrinkage component yarn, and the difference in heat shrinkage between the two yarns is 5% or more, preferably 10 to 25%. The composite yarn may have three or more types of yarns as long as at least two types of yarns satisfy a difference in thermal shrinkage of 5% or more.

【0011】この複合糸条を用いた編地は、後工程の精
練(70〜100℃)、染色(100〜130℃)処理
により、高収縮成分糸が大きく縮み、編地を実質的に収
縮させその編目を埋めて、その結果として編地はそのカ
バーファクターが大きくなることにより通気性が低減し
たものとなる。一方低収縮成分糸は縮みが小さく、結果
的に高収縮成分糸が芯となってその周囲に低収縮成分糸
が巻き付くように立体的な膨らみ構造を形成し、編地表
面は実質的に低収縮成分糸で覆われ、低収縮成分糸自身
の特性が付与された嵩高な編地となる。
In the knitted fabric using the composite yarn, the high shrinkage component yarn is greatly shrunk by the subsequent scouring (70 to 100 ° C.) and dyeing (100 to 130 ° C.), and the knitted fabric is substantially shrunk. Then, the stitches are filled, and as a result, the knitted fabric has a reduced air permeability due to an increase in its cover factor. On the other hand, the low-shrinkage component yarn has a small shrinkage, and as a result, the high-shrinkage component yarn forms a core and forms a three-dimensional bulging structure so that the low-shrinkage component yarn is wound around the core. A bulky knitted fabric covered with the low shrinkage component yarn and given the characteristics of the low shrinkage component yarn itself.

【0012】両糸の熱収縮率差が5%未満では、充分な
膨らみが得られず、25%を超えると膨らみが大きすぎ
てスナッグなどの物理的物性が劣る。なお、高収縮成分
糸の熱収縮率としては、10〜30%が好ましい。熱収
縮率が10%未満では、編地の収縮が十分でなく通気性
の低減化が図れない。30%を超えると編地の収縮が大
きすぎて、風合いが粗硬となる。
If the difference in heat shrinkage between the two yarns is less than 5%, sufficient swelling cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 25%, the swelling is too large and the physical properties such as snags are inferior. The high shrinkage component yarn preferably has a heat shrinkage of 10 to 30%. If the heat shrinkage is less than 10%, the knitted fabric does not shrink sufficiently, and it is not possible to reduce the air permeability. If it exceeds 30%, the shrinkage of the knitted fabric is too large, and the texture becomes coarse and hard.

【0013】ここでいう熱収縮率とは、試料に初荷重
(0.1g/d)をかけ、500mm測長して2点にマ
ークをつけたのち初荷重を取り除いてガーゼに包み込
み、130℃の熱水中で30分間処理後、脱水、自然乾
燥し、再び初荷重をかけ2点間の長さ(L)を測り、次
式により熱収縮率を算出する。 熱収縮率(%)=((500ーL)/500)×100 本発明では、複合糸条の低収縮成分糸には下記式で求め
る周長比Lrが1.2以上であることが必要である。
The term "heat shrinkage ratio" as used herein means that an initial load (0.1 g / d) is applied to a sample, the length of the sample is measured at 500 mm, and two points are marked. After being treated in hot water for 30 minutes, dehydrated and air dried, an initial load is applied again, the length (L) between two points is measured, and the heat shrinkage is calculated by the following equation. Heat shrinkage (%) = ((500−L) / 500) × 100 In the present invention, the low shrinkage component yarn of the composite yarn needs to have a circumference ratio Lr obtained by the following formula of 1.2 or more. It is.

【0014】Lr=L1 /L2 (但し、L1 は低収縮成分糸の単糸周長(cm)を表
し、L2 は低収縮成分糸の単糸断面積S1 (cm2 )と
同一面積の円形断面糸の周長(cm)を表し、L2=2
×(π×S1 0.5 で算出される) 周長比Lrを1.2以上とすることにより単糸及び単糸
間の空隙が極めて大きくなり、編地にしたときの膨ら
み、保温性が向上する。また、編糸間での低収縮成分糸
は単糸集束が少ないためミクロランダムなエアー層を形
成し、編地風合いはソフトなものとなる。なお、周長比
Lrが1.2未満では単糸及び単糸間の空隙が少なくな
り、保温性が不充分となる。周長比Lrが2.5を超え
ると糸製造時の紡糸性不良または断面形態不均一を起こ
す場合があり、周長比Lrは好ましくは1.3〜2.5
である単糸が好ましく用いられる。
Lr = L 1 / L 2 (where L 1 represents a single yarn perimeter (cm) of the low shrinkage component yarn, and L 2 is a single yarn cross-sectional area S 1 (cm 2 ) of the low shrinkage component yarn. Represents the circumference (cm) of a circular cross-section yarn of the same area, L 2 = 2
× (π × S 1 ) 0.5 ) By setting the circumference ratio Lr to 1.2 or more, the gap between the single yarns and the single yarns becomes extremely large, and the swelling and heat insulation when knitted are made. improves. Also, the low shrinkage component yarns between the knitting yarns form a micro-random air layer because the single yarn bundle is small, and the knitted fabric feel is soft. In addition, when the circumference ratio Lr is less than 1.2, the gap between the single yarns and the single yarns decreases, and the heat retention becomes insufficient. If the circumference ratio Lr exceeds 2.5, poor spinnability or non-uniform cross-sectional shape during yarn production may occur, and the circumference ratio Lr is preferably 1.3 to 2.5.
Is preferably used.

【0015】本発明において、この低収縮成分糸は前記
周長比を満足するために単糸断面に凹部をもった異型で
あることが好ましい。単糸の断面に凹部を有することに
より単糸及び単糸間の空隙が増す。糸の断面形状として
は、例えば、丸、三角、多角型などの断面に凹部を形成
した異型状のもの、あるいはL型、T型、Y型、W型、
H型、π型、十型、#型、*型、八葉型、ドッグボーン
型などの異型状のもの、あるいはこれらの糸に中空部を
もった断面形状のものを用いることができる。
In the present invention, it is preferable that the low shrinkage component yarn is a modified yarn having a concave portion in a cross section of a single yarn in order to satisfy the perimeter ratio. By having the concave portion in the cross section of the single yarn, the gap between the single yarn and the single yarn increases. As the cross-sectional shape of the yarn, for example, a circular, triangular, polygonal or other cross-sectional shape with a concave portion formed therein, or an L-shaped, T-shaped, Y-shaped, W-shaped,
An irregular shape such as an H type, a π type, a ten type, a # type, a * type, a Yaba type, a dog bone type, or a cross sectional shape having a hollow portion in these yarns can be used.

【0016】また、本発明ではこの低収縮成分糸はソフ
トタッチな風合い、通気性低減の点からマルチフィラメ
ント糸を用いるのが好ましい。その構成単糸は0.5〜
2.0デニール、糸としては30〜200デニールのも
のが好ましく用いられる。単糸が0.5デニール未満で
は紡糸性不良または断面形態不均一を起こす。2.0デ
ニールを超えると、ソフトタッチ性、通気性が劣る。ま
た、糸が30デニール未満では紡糸性不良、断面形態不
良を起こし、150デニールを超えると編地としては重
厚なものとなり衣料用として不適である。
In the present invention, it is preferable to use a multifilament yarn as the low shrinkage component yarn from the viewpoint of soft touch feeling and reduction of air permeability. The constituent single yarn is 0.5 ~
2.0 denier and 30 to 200 denier yarn are preferably used. If the single yarn is less than 0.5 denier, poor spinnability or uneven cross-sectional shape is caused. If it exceeds 2.0 denier, soft touch properties and air permeability are inferior. On the other hand, if the yarn is less than 30 denier, poor spinnability and poor cross-sectional morphology occur, and if it exceeds 150 denier, the knitted fabric becomes heavy and unsuitable for clothing.

【0017】また、この低収縮成分糸は、更に単糸間の
空隙を上げて膨らみ感、ソフトタッチ性、ドライタッチ
性を付与するために捲縮加工糸とするのが好ましい。こ
の捲縮加工糸の捲縮伸長率は、20%以下、好ましくは
0.5〜15%の低捲縮加工糸とする。捲縮伸長率が
0.5%未満では膨らみ感、保温性が減少しドライタッ
チ性も得られなくなる。20%よりも大きいと膨らみ、
保温性は増すものの風合いは仮撚加工糸特有のふかつい
たものとなる。
The low-shrinkage component yarn is preferably a crimped yarn in order to further increase the voids between the single yarns to give a feeling of swelling, soft touch property and dry touch property. The crimp elongation of the crimped yarn is 20% or less, preferably 0.5 to 15%. If the crimp elongation is less than 0.5%, the feeling of swelling and the heat retention are reduced, and dry touch properties cannot be obtained. If it is larger than 20%, it swells,
Although the heat retaining property is increased, the texture is unique to false twisted yarn.

【0018】この捲縮加工糸は、通常使用されるピン、
ニップベルト、ディスクなどによる仮撚法、エッジによ
る擦過法、ギア、ニットデニットなどによる賦型法、あ
るいは押し込み法、高圧エアジェット法、複合捲縮法な
どによって得ることができるが、捲縮のコントロール、
均一性、生産性などから仮撚法が好ましい。この仮撚法
において加工糸を低捲縮にするためには、1ヒーター法
により仮撚温度を120〜180℃とする低温仮撚、仮
撚数を通常の10〜40%低下した低撚仮撚法、あるい
は2ヒーター法により一段目のヒーターで処理した仮撚
糸を2段目のヒーターで再熱処理して捲縮を低減させる
2ヒーター仮撚法などによって達成することができる。
[0018] The crimped yarn is a commonly used pin,
It can be obtained by a false twisting method using a nip belt, a disk, etc., a shaping method using an edge, a shaping method using a gear, a knit denit, or a pressing method, a high pressure air jet method, a composite crimping method, etc. Control,
The false twist method is preferred from the viewpoint of uniformity, productivity and the like. In order to reduce the crimp of the processed yarn in this false twisting method, low-temperature false twisting in which the false twisting temperature is set to 120 to 180 ° C. by a one-heater method, and low twisting false twist in which the number of false twists is reduced by 10 to 40% as compared with a normal twist This can be achieved by a twisting method or a two-heater false twisting method in which a false twisted yarn treated by a first-stage heater by a two-heater method is reheat-treated by a second-stage heater to reduce crimp.

【0019】なお、複合糸条を構成する低収縮成分糸/
高収縮成分糸の繊度比は、1.0〜4.0が好ましい。
繊度比が1.0未満では低収縮成分糸が少なすぎて嵩高
で、ソフト風合いが得られない。また、繊度比が4.0
を超えると低収縮成分糸が多すぎて腰のない風合いとな
る。また、高収縮成分糸の繊度としては、10〜100
デニール、好ましくは20〜50デニールである。10
デニール未満では、熱収縮応力が小さく編地を緻密化し
難い。100デニールを超えると、熱収縮糸が多くなる
ため編地は粗硬なものとなる。また、単糸繊度は1〜5
デニールが好ましい。1デニール未満では、編地の腰が
不足し、5デニールを超えると編地風合いは粗硬なもの
となる。
The low shrinkage component yarn constituting the composite yarn /
The fineness ratio of the high shrinkage component yarn is preferably 1.0 to 4.0.
When the fineness ratio is less than 1.0, the amount of the low shrinkage component yarn is too small, the bulkiness is high, and a soft texture cannot be obtained. The fineness ratio is 4.0
If it exceeds, the amount of the low-shrinkage component yarn is too large, and the texture becomes stiff. The fineness of the high shrinkage component yarn is 10 to 100.
Denier, preferably 20 to 50 denier. 10
If it is less than denier, the heat shrinkage stress is small and it is difficult to densify the knitted fabric. If it exceeds 100 denier, the heat-shrinkable yarn increases and the knitted fabric becomes coarse and hard. The fineness of single yarn is 1-5
Denier is preferred. If it is less than 1 denier, the knit of the knitted fabric is insufficient, and if it exceeds 5 denier, the texture of the knitted fabric becomes coarse and hard.

【0020】本発明に用いる複合糸条は、撚糸、カバリ
ング、エアー混繊、仮撚、複合紡績あるいは紡糸混繊な
どの方法を用いて調製することができ、複合糸条の形態
としては、高収縮成分糸の周りに低収縮成分糸を配置し
た構造、すなわち芯に高収縮成分糸、鞘に低収縮成分糸
の芯鞘構造になるようなものが好ましい。さらに本発明
では、前記複合糸条を用いた編地層のカバーファクター
は、15000〜60000、好ましくは20000〜
50000である。ここでカバーファクター(K)は、
K=W×C×D1/2 Wはウェル密度(本/インチ)、
Cはコース密度(本/インチ)、Dは糸の太さ(デニー
ル)を示す。編地が千鳥状、ストライプ状などの柄で異
素材が表面に露出する場合は、1インチ当たりの各素材
毎のW1 、W2 ・・・、C1 、C2 ・・・、D1 、D2
・・・をもって次式により算出する。K1 =W1 ×C1
×D11/2、K2 =W2 ×C2 ×D21/2・・・・とし、K
=K1 +K2 +・・・で算出する。なお前記カバーファ
クターが15000未満では、編目が粗く目標の通気度
を得ることができない。カバーファクターが60000
を超えると、編目が密過ぎて風合いが粗硬となる。な
お,ここでいうカバーファクターは、熱処理を受けた
(精錬、染色処理仕上げされた)製品編地を対象とす
る。
The composite yarn used in the present invention can be prepared by a method such as twisting, covering, air blending, false twisting, composite spinning or spinning blending. A structure in which a low-shrinkage component yarn is disposed around a shrinkage component yarn, that is, a core-sheath structure of a high-shrinkage component yarn in a core and a low-shrinkage component yarn in a sheath is preferable. Further, in the present invention, the cover factor of the knitted fabric layer using the composite yarn is 15,000 to 60,000, preferably 20,000 to
50,000. Here, the cover factor (K) is
K = W × C × D 1/2 W is the well density (lines / inch),
C indicates the course density (book / inch), and D indicates the thickness of the yarn (denier). If the knitted fabric has a staggered or striped pattern and different materials are exposed on the surface, W1, W2,..., C1, C2.
Is calculated by the following equation. K1 = W1 x C1
× D1 1/2 , K2 = W2 × C2 × D2 1/2 ...
= K1 + K2 +... If the cover factor is less than 15,000, the stitch is coarse and the desired air permeability cannot be obtained. Cover factor of 60000
If it exceeds, the stitch is too dense and the texture becomes coarse and hard. Note that the cover factor referred to here is a product knitted fabric that has been subjected to a heat treatment (finished and dyed).

【0021】また、本発明における編地の密度は0.1
0〜0.25g/cm3 が好ましい。密度が0.10g
/cm3 未満では空隙が多すぎて通気の低減化が図れな
い。0.25g/cm3 を超えると、風合いが粗硬とな
り軽量化も図れない。本発明でいう編地の密度の算出
は、編地の重量と厚みを測定して、次式により求める。
The density of the knitted fabric in the present invention is 0.1
0 to 0.25 g / cm 3 is preferred. 0.10g density
If it is less than / cm 3 , the air gap is too large to reduce the ventilation. If it exceeds 0.25 g / cm 3 , the texture becomes coarse and hard, and the weight cannot be reduced. The calculation of the density of the knitted fabric referred to in the present invention is obtained by measuring the weight and thickness of the knitted fabric and calculating the following formula.

【0022】密度(g/cm3 )=重量(g/cm2
/厚み(cm) なお、本発明に用いる低収縮成分糸としては、ポリエス
テル繊維、ポリアミド繊維は加工特性、物性の面で好ま
しい。特にポリエステル繊維は風合い、耐シワ性、耐洗
濯性、寸法安定性などの機能性が良好でより好ましい。
ポリエステル繊維としては、例えばポリエチレンテレフ
タレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート、およびそれら
の共重合体などの外に他の共重合成分を含んでいても差
し支えのないポリエステル共重合体の繊維である。この
ような共重合成分としては、例えば、脂肪族ジカルボン
酸(シュウ酸、アジピン酸など)、脂環族ジカルボン酸
(シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸など)、芳香族ジカルボ
ン酸(イソフタル酸、ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸な
ど)、脂肪族グリコール(エチレングリコール、1,2
−プロピレングリコール、テトラメチレングリコールな
ど)、脂環族グリコール(シクロヘキサンジオールな
ど)、芳香族ジオキシ化合物(ハイドロキノンビスフェ
ノールAなど)、芳香族を含む脂肪族グリコール(1,
4−ビス(β−ヒドロキシエトキシ)ベンゼンなど)、
ポリエーテルグリコール(ポリエチレングリコール、ポ
リプレングリコールなど)、脂肪族オキシカルボン酸
(ωオキシカプロン酸など)、芳香族オキシカルボン酸
(p−オキシ安息香酸など)等がある。また、1個また
は3個以上のエステル形成性官能基を有する化合物(安
息香酸などまたはグリセリンなど)も重合体が実質的に
線状である範囲内で使用できる。また、これらの共重合
成分を2種類以上共重合させても差し支えない。
Density (g / cm 3 ) = weight (g / cm 2 )
/ Thickness (cm) As the low shrinkage component yarn used in the present invention, polyester fibers and polyamide fibers are preferable in view of processing characteristics and physical properties. In particular, polyester fibers are more preferable because they have good texture, wrinkle resistance, washing resistance, and dimensional stability.
The polyester fiber is, for example, a fiber of a polyester copolymer which may contain other copolymer components in addition to polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and a copolymer thereof. Examples of such a copolymer component include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium sulfoisophthalic acid). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone bisphenol A, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,
4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.),
Examples thereof include polyether glycols (eg, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (eg, ω-oxycaproic acid), and aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (eg, p-oxybenzoic acid). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used in a range where the polymer is substantially linear. Further, two or more of these copolymer components may be copolymerized.

【0023】一方、高収縮成分糸としては、例えばイソ
フタル酸、スルホイソフタル酸、ジエチレングリコー
ル、2,2−ビス(4−(2−ヒドロキシエトキシ)フ
ェニル)プロパンなどの第三成分を共重合したポリエス
テル、ジメチル(5−ナトリウムスルホ)イソフタル酸
を共重合したカチオン可染性ポリエステルやポリブチレ
ンテレフタレートなどの単独成分糸、あるいは前記単独
成分糸と通常のポリエチレンテレフタレートや他の成分
を共重合したポリエステルなどとの複合紡糸(例えばサ
イドバイサイド型、偏芯型などのコンジュゲート糸)あ
るいは紡糸混繊糸を用いることができる。
On the other hand, examples of the high shrinkage component yarn include polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component such as isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid, diethylene glycol, and 2,2-bis (4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl) propane. A single component yarn such as a cationic dyeable polyester or polybutylene terephthalate copolymerized with dimethyl (5-sodium sulfo) isophthalic acid, or a single component yarn of the single component yarn and a polyester copolymerized with ordinary polyethylene terephthalate or other components. Composite spinning (for example, conjugate yarn of side-by-side type, eccentric type, etc.) or mixed spun yarn can be used.

【0024】これらの低収縮成分糸、高収縮成分糸には
用途、使用形態により紡糸段階で二酸化チタンなどの艶
消し剤、リン酸などの安定剤、ヒドロキシベンゾフェノ
ン誘導体などの紫外線吸収剤、ジルコニア、アルミナ、
シリカ、酸化チタン、硫酸バリウム、炭酸カルシウム、
窒化ホウソ、アルミ酸ストロンチウム、硫化亜鉛などの
紫外線遮蔽剤、窒化チタン、炭化ジルコニウム、炭化チ
タン、ハフニウム、タンタル、アンチモン含有酸化ス
ズ、インジウム含有酸化スズ、カーボンなどの蓄熱剤、
タルクなどの結晶化核剤、アエロジルなどの易滑剤、ヒ
ンダードフェノール誘導体などの抗酸化剤、難燃剤、制
電剤、顔料、蛍光増白剤、赤外線吸収剤、耐熱剤、蓄光
剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤などの添加剤が含有された機能性付
与の糸であってもよい。
These low-shrink component yarns and high-shrink component yarns may have a matting agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid, an ultraviolet absorber such as a hydroxybenzophenone derivative, a zirconia, alumina,
Silica, titanium oxide, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate,
UV shielding agents such as boron nitride, strontium aluminate, and zinc sulfide; heat storage agents such as titanium nitride, zirconium carbide, titanium carbide, hafnium, tantalum, antimony-containing tin oxide, indium-containing tin oxide, and carbon;
Crystal nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as Aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, fluorescent brighteners, infrared absorbers, heat-resistant agents, phosphorescent agents, and antibacterial agents Alternatively, a functionalized yarn containing an additive such as a deodorant may be used.

【0025】また、本発明における編地において前記複
合糸条に加え、他糸を併用することができる。併用され
る糸としては、特に限定されるものではなく用途、機能
などに応じて適宜選定すればよい。例えば綿、麻、ウー
ル、絹、などの天然繊維、レーヨンなどの再生繊維、ア
セテートなどの半合成繊維、ポリエステル、ポリアミ
ド、ポリアクリル、ポリエチレン、ポリ塩化ビニルなど
の合成繊維を用いることができる。
In the knitted fabric of the present invention, other yarns can be used in addition to the composite yarn. The yarn to be used in combination is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately selected depending on the use, function, and the like. For example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyacryl, polyethylene, and polyvinyl chloride can be used.

【0026】また、本発明の編地には、用途、使用形態
により吸水剤、撥水剤、蓄熱剤、紫外線遮蔽あるいは吸
収剤、制電剤、抗菌剤、消臭剤、防虫剤、蓄光剤、再帰
反射剤などの各種加工により機能付与が施されていても
よい。また、毛羽付与のための起毛加工、艶出し、柄出
しのためのカレンダー加工、エンボス加工などの物理的
加工が施されていてもよい。
Further, the knitted fabric of the present invention may have a water absorbing agent, a water repellent, a heat storage agent, an ultraviolet shielding or absorbing agent, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a luminous agent, depending on the use and form of use. The function may be imparted by various processes such as a retroreflective agent. Further, physical processing such as brushing for imparting fluff, calendering for patterning, embossing, and the like may be performed.

【0027】以上の構成により得られる本発明の防風性
編地は、編地のもつ伸縮特性を保持しつつ通気性の低減
を図ることができ、しかも膨らみ、ソフトタッチ感、軽
量感をもった、防風保温性に優れる編地を得ることがで
き、一般衣料をはじめスポーツ衣料の秋冬物素材として
極めて優れたものである。また、本発明の複合糸条を用
いることにより、高カバーファクターの編地を得ること
ができるため、UVカット性(紫外線遮蔽性)にも大き
な効果がある。
The windproof knitted fabric of the present invention obtained by the above-described structure can reduce the air permeability while maintaining the stretch characteristics of the knitted fabric, and has a swelling, soft touch feeling and light weight feeling. Thus, it is possible to obtain a knitted fabric having excellent windproof and heat insulating properties, and it is extremely excellent as a fall / winter material for sports clothing including general clothing. In addition, by using the composite yarn of the present invention, a knitted fabric having a high cover factor can be obtained, and therefore, there is a great effect on UV cut properties (ultraviolet ray shielding properties).

【0028】[0028]

【実施例】以下、本発明の実施例について説明する。本
発明に用いたデーターの測定法は次の通りである。 (1)捲縮伸長率(%):試料をかせ状態にし、0.3
mg/dの荷重下で90℃で15分間熱処理を行ったの
ち、除重し一昼夜フリーで放置したかせより糸を採取
し、初荷重(2mg/d)をかけ30秒後に20cm測
長して2点間にマークをつけたのち初荷重を取り除き、
次いで荷重(0.1g/d)をかけ30秒後に2点間の
長さ(L)を測り、次式により捲縮伸長率を算出する。
Embodiments of the present invention will be described below. The data measuring method used in the present invention is as follows. (1) Crimp elongation rate (%): 0.3
After heat treatment at 90 ° C. for 15 minutes under a load of mg / d, the yarn was removed from the skein which had been left unloaded for 24 hours, and an initial load (2 mg / d) was applied. Remove the initial load after marking between points,
Then, after applying a load (0.1 g / d), the length (L) between the two points is measured after 30 seconds, and the crimp elongation is calculated by the following equation.

【0029】捲縮伸長率(%)=((Lー200)/2
00)×100 (2)防風性:生地表面に風速10m/secで風を吹
きつけたときの生地裏面の風速(m/sec)を測定す
る。 (3)保温性:サーモラボII(カトーテック社製)を用
いて、環境10℃下で熱板32℃(△T22℃)に設定
し、スペース法(隙間10mm)で生地を取付け、生地
表面に風速10m/secの風を吹きつけたときの熱損
失量(W/m2℃)を測定する(値が小さいほど保温性
が高い)。
Crimp elongation (%) = ((L−200) / 2
00) × 100 (2) Windproofness: Measure the wind speed (m / sec) on the back surface of the fabric when the wind is blown on the fabric surface at a wind speed of 10 m / sec. (3) Heat retention: Using a Thermolab II (manufactured by Kato Tech), set the hot plate at 32 ° C (△ T22 ° C) under an environment of 10 ° C, attach the dough by the space method (gap 10 mm), and attach it to the dough surface. The amount of heat loss (W / m 2 ° C) when blowing a wind at a wind speed of 10 m / sec is measured (the smaller the value, the higher the heat retention).

【0030】(4)膨らみ:荷重0.5g/cm2 下で
の厚み評価を行う。 (5)軽量性:重量(g/cm2 ) と厚み(cm)の測
定を行い、重量/厚み=密度(g/cm3 )を算出す
る。
(4) Swelling: The thickness is evaluated under a load of 0.5 g / cm 2 . (5) Light weight: Weight (g / cm 2 ) and thickness (cm) are measured, and weight / thickness = density (g / cm 3 ) is calculated.

【0031】(6)UVカット性:積分球付き分光光度
計(島津製作所製)を用いて280〜400nm波長域
の紫外線透過率(積分値%)を測定し、下記式によって
求める。 紫外線遮蔽性(%)=100−紫外線平均透過率 〔実施例1〜3、比較例1〜2〕低収縮成分糸として、
周長比Lrが1.00の丸型断面、1.30、1.8
0、2.30、2.70のπ型断面であるポリエチレン
テレフタレート単糸からなるマルチフィラメント延伸糸
75d/72fを紡糸し、ニップベルト方式により下記
条件にて仮撚加工を行った加工糸(熱収縮率2%、捲縮
伸長率5%)を得た。一方高収縮成分糸として、30d
/12f丸型断面のイソフタル酸共重合ポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメント延伸糸(熱収縮率20%)を紡糸し
た。
(6) UV-cutting property: UV transmittance (integral value%) in a wavelength range of 280 to 400 nm is measured using a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) and determined by the following equation. UV shielding property (%) = 100−UV average transmittance [Examples 1 to 3, Comparative Examples 1 and 2] As a low shrinkage component yarn,
A round section having a circumference ratio Lr of 1.00, 1.30, 1.8
A multifilament drawn yarn 75d / 72f made of polyethylene terephthalate single yarn having a π-shaped cross section of 0, 2.30, 2.70 is spun and subjected to false twist processing by a nip belt method under the following conditions (heat Shrinkage 2%, crimp elongation 5%). On the other hand, as a high shrinkage component yarn, 30d
An isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester multifilament drawn yarn having a / 12f round cross section (heat shrinkage of 20%) was spun.

【0032】次いで、両糸を引き揃え、インターレース
法により、オーバーフィード1.5%、エアー圧2.0
Kgf/cm2 下で交絡混繊した異収縮複合糸条(熱収
縮率差1.8%)を得た。この複合糸条を28ゲージ丸
編機にて天竺組織を編み立て後、精練染色処理(130
℃*30分)を行い、カバーファクターを35000に
設定してほぼ同等に上がるように仕上げセット(180
℃処理)を行った編地を作成した。
Next, both yarns were aligned, and over-feed 1.5% and air pressure 2.0
A hetero-shrinkage composite yarn entangled and mixed under Kgf / cm 2 (difference in heat shrinkage 1.8%) was obtained. The knitting of the composite yarn with a 28-gauge circular knitting machine to form a jersey fabric, followed by a scouring dyeing treatment (130
C. * 30 minutes), set the cover factor to 35,000, and finish set (180
C) was prepared.

【0033】試験結果は表1に示される通り、比較例1
は膨らみが小さくソフト性に欠け軽量感もなかった。ま
た通気は大きく防風保温性にも劣っていた。比較例2は
毛羽多発で編立て出来なかった。一方、本発明は嵩高い
ソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量かつ通気度は低く防風保
温性に優れていた。また、紫外線遮蔽性も良好であっ
た。
The test results are shown in Table 1.
The swelling was small and lacked softness, and there was no light feeling. Moreover, ventilation was large and it was inferior to windproof heat retention. In Comparative Example 2, knitting could not be performed because of fluff. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. Further, the ultraviolet shielding property was also good.

【0034】 [0034]

【0035】[0035]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0036】〔実施例4、比較例3〜4〕低収縮成分糸
として、周長比Lrが1.80のπ型断面であるポリエ
チレンテレフタレートの単糸からなるマルチフィラメン
ト延伸糸75d/186f(単糸0.40d)、75d
/108f(単糸0.69d)、75d/30f(単糸
2.50d)を紡糸し、前記実施例1〜3と同条件で仮
撚加工を行った加工糸(いずれも熱収縮率2%、捲縮伸
長率5%)を得た。
Example 4, Comparative Examples 3 and 4 As a low shrinkage component yarn, a multifilament drawn yarn 75d / 186f (single yarn) made of a single yarn of polyethylene terephthalate having a π-shaped cross section having a circumference ratio Lr of 1.80. Thread 0.40d), 75d
/ 108f (single yarn 0.69d) and 75d / 30f (single yarn 2.50d) were spun and subjected to false twisting under the same conditions as in Examples 1 to 3 above (all heat shrinkage 2% , Crimp elongation rate 5%).

【0037】一方高収縮成分糸として、30d/12f
丸型断面のイソフタル酸共重合ポリエステルマルチフィ
ラメント延伸糸(熱収縮率20%)を紡糸した。次い
で、前記の実施例1〜3と同様に両糸を引き揃え、イン
ターレース法により交絡混繊した異収縮複合糸条(熱収
縮率差18%)を調製し、編立て仕上げ処理を行った。
試験結果は、表2に示される通り、比較例3は毛羽多発
で編立て困難であった。比較例4は風合いが粗硬で、通
気は大きく防風保温性に劣っていた。一方、本発明は嵩
高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量かつ通気度は低く防
風保温性に優れていた。また、紫外線遮蔽性も良好であ
った。
On the other hand, as a high shrinkage component yarn, 30d / 12f
An isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester multifilament drawn yarn having a round cross section (heat shrinkage 20%) was spun. Then, both yarns were aligned in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3, and a different shrinkage composite yarn (a difference in heat shrinkage of 18%) entangled and mixed by an interlace method was prepared and subjected to a knitting finish treatment.
As shown in the test results in Table 2, Comparative Example 3 was difficult to knit due to frequent fluff. In Comparative Example 4, the texture was coarse and hard, the ventilation was large, and the windproof and heat insulating properties were poor. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. Further, the ultraviolet shielding property was also good.

【0038】[0038]

【表2】 [Table 2]

【0039】〔実施例5〜6、比較例5〜6〕低収縮成
分糸として、周長比が1.80のπ型断面であるポリエ
チレンテレフタレートのマルチフィラメント延伸糸75
d/72fを紡糸し、前記実施例1〜3と同条件で仮撚
加工を行った加工糸(熱収縮率2%、捲縮伸長率5%)
を得た。一方、高収縮成分糸として30d/12f丸型
断面のイソフタル酸共重合ポリエステルマルチフィラメ
ント延伸糸で熱収縮率を5%、15%、25%、35%
とした糸を調製した。次いで、前記実施例1〜3と同様
にインターレース法により交絡混繊した異収縮複合糸条
(各々の熱収縮率差3%、13%、23%、33%)を
調整し、編立て仕上げ処理を行った。
Examples 5 to 6 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6 As a low shrinkage component yarn, a multifilament drawn yarn 75 of polyethylene terephthalate having a π-shaped cross section having a circumference ratio of 1.80.
Processed yarn obtained by spinning d / 72f and performing false twisting under the same conditions as in Examples 1 to 3 (heat shrinkage 2%, crimp elongation 5%)
I got On the other hand, as a high shrinkage component yarn, a 30d / 12f round cross-section isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester multifilament drawn yarn has a heat shrinkage of 5%, 15%, 25%, and 35%.
Was prepared. Next, different shrinkage composite yarns (different in heat shrinkage of 3%, 13%, 23%, and 33%, respectively) entangled and mixed by the interlace method in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3 above were prepared, and knitting finishing treatment was performed. Was done.

【0040】試験結果は表3に示される通り、比較例5
は風合いが粗硬で、通気は大きく防風保温性に劣ってい
た。比較例6は防風保温性には優れているものの風合い
は粗硬であった。一方、本発明は嵩高いソフトタッチな
風合いで、軽量かつ通気度は低く防風保温性に優れてい
た。
The test results are shown in Table 3, as shown in Comparative Example 5
Had a rough and hard texture, a large ventilation, and inferior windproof and heat insulating properties. Comparative Example 6 was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties, but the texture was coarse and hard. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties.

【0041】[0041]

【表3】 [Table 3]

【0042】〔実施例7〜8、比較例7〜8〕低収縮成
分糸として、周長比が1.80のπ型断面であるポリエ
チレンテレフタレートのマルチフィラメント延伸糸75
d/72fを紡糸し、前記実施例1〜3と同条件で仮撚
加工を行った加工糸(熱収縮率2%、捲縮伸長率5%)
を得た。一方高収縮成分糸として30d/12f丸型断
面のイソフタル酸共重合ポリエステルマルチフィラメン
ト延伸糸(熱収縮率20%)を紡糸した。次いで、実施
例1〜3と同様に両糸を引揃えインターレース法により
交絡混繊した異収縮複合糸条(熱収縮縮率差20%)を
調整し、28ゲージ丸編機にて編密度を変更して天竺組
織を編み立て、精練染色処理(130℃*30分)を行
ったのち、仕上げセット(180℃処理)を行い、カバ
ーファクターが13000、18000、56000、
68000の編地を作成した。
Examples 7 to 8 and Comparative Examples 7 to 8 As a low shrinkage component yarn, a multifilament drawn yarn 75 of polyethylene terephthalate having a π-shaped cross section having a circumference ratio of 1.80.
Processed yarn obtained by spinning d / 72f and performing false twisting under the same conditions as in Examples 1 to 3 (heat shrinkage 2%, crimp elongation 5%)
I got On the other hand, as a high shrinkage component yarn, a 30d / 12f round cross-section isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester multifilament drawn yarn (heat shrinkage 20%) was spun. Next, a different shrinkage composite yarn (heat shrinkage shrinkage difference of 20%) in which both yarns were drawn and entangled and mixed by an interlacing method in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3 was adjusted, and the knitting density was adjusted with a 28 gauge circular knitting machine. After changing the knitted fabric, performing a scouring dyeing treatment (130 ° C. * 30 minutes), a finishing set (180 ° C. treatment), and a cover factor of 13,000, 18,000, 56000,
68000 knitted fabrics were created.

【0043】試験結果は、表4に示されるように、比較
例7は通気が大きく防風保温性に劣っていた。比較例8
は防風保温性には優れているものの風合いが粗硬であっ
た。一方、本発明は嵩高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽
量かつ通気度は低く防風保温性に優れていた。また、紫
外線遮蔽性も良好であった。
As shown in Table 4, as shown in Table 4, Comparative Example 7 had large ventilation and was inferior in windproof and heat insulating properties. Comparative Example 8
Had excellent windproof and heat insulating properties, but had a rough and hard texture. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. Further, the ultraviolet shielding property was also good.

【0044】[0044]

【表4】 [Table 4]

【0045】〔実施例9〕低収縮成分糸として、周長比
Lrが1.50のW型断面であるポリエチレンテレフタ
レートのマルチフィラメント延伸糸75d/60fを紡
糸し、実施例1〜3と同条件で仮撚加工を行った加工糸
(熱収縮率2%、捲縮伸長率5%)を得た。
Example 9 As a low shrinkage component yarn, a multifilament drawn yarn 75d / 60f of polyethylene terephthalate having a W-shaped cross section with a circumference ratio Lr of 1.50 was spun and spun under the same conditions as in Examples 1 to 3. In this manner, a textured yarn (heat shrinkage 2%, crimp elongation 5%) subjected to false twisting was obtained.

【0046】一方高収縮成分糸として、ジメチル(5−
ナトリウムスルホ)イソフタル酸を2.2モル%含んだ
共重合ポリエステル(ηsp/c=0.57、酸化チタン
0.2%含有)と共重合物を含まない通常のポリエステ
ル(ηsp/c=0.70、酸化チタン0.2%含有)を
別々に溶融し、混合比1:1のサイドバイサイドに複合
して、紡糸し巻取った。次いで延伸して30d/12f
の円形断面のポリエステルコンジュゲート糸(熱収縮率
20%)を得た。
On the other hand, dimethyl (5-
Copolymerized polyester (ηsp / c = 0.57, containing 0.2% titanium oxide) containing 2.2 mol% of sodium sulfo) isophthalic acid and ordinary polyester (ηsp / c = 0.07) containing no copolymer. 70, containing 0.2% of titanium oxide) were separately melted, compounded into a side-by-side mixture having a mixing ratio of 1: 1, spun and wound. Then stretch to 30d / 12f
A polyester conjugate yarn having a circular cross section (heat shrinkage of 20%) was obtained.

【0047】次いで、実施例1〜3と同様に両糸を引揃
えてインターレース法により交絡混繊した異収縮複合糸
条(熱収縮率差8%)を調整し、編み立て仕上げ処理を
行った。試験結果は表5に示される通り、本発明は嵩高
いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量かつ通気度は低く防風
保温性に優れていた。 〔実施例10〕低収縮成分糸として、周長比Lrが1.
80のπ型断面であるポリエチレンテレフタレートのマ
ルチフィラメント延伸糸75d/72f(熱収縮率7
%)を紡糸し、一方高収縮成分糸として、30d/12
f丸型断面のイソフタル酸共重合ポリエステルマルチフ
ィラメント延伸糸(熱収縮率20%)を紡糸した。次い
で、両糸を引き揃え、インターレース法により、オーバ
ーフィード1.5%、エアー圧2.0Kgf/cm2
で交絡混繊したのち、ニップベルト方式により仮撚加工
(加工条件:ツイスターアングル100度、第一ヒータ
ー150℃)を行った複合糸条(熱収縮率12%、両糸
の熱収縮率差9%、捲縮伸長率16%)を得た。次い
で、該複合糸条を実施例1〜3と同様の編み立て仕上げ
処理を行った。
Next, in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 3, both yarns were aligned and a different shrinkage composite yarn (heat shrinkage difference: 8%) entangled and mixed by an interlace method was adjusted, and a knitting finish treatment was performed. . As shown in the test results in Table 5, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. Example 10 A low shrinkage component yarn having a circumference ratio Lr of 1.
Multi-filament drawn yarn 75d / 72f of polyethylene terephthalate having a π-shaped cross section of 80 (heat shrinkage of 7
%), While 30 d / 12 as a high shrinkage component yarn
f Spun isophthalic acid copolymerized polyester multifilament drawn yarn having a round cross section (heat shrinkage 20%). Next, both yarns are aligned and interlaced and mixed by an interlace method under an overfeed of 1.5% and an air pressure of 2.0 kgf / cm 2 , and then false twisting by a nip belt method (processing condition: twister angle 100 °) , The first heater at 150 ° C.) to obtain a composite yarn (heat shrinkage 12%, difference in heat shrinkage 9% between both yarns, crimp elongation 16%). Next, the composite yarn was subjected to the same knitting finishing treatment as in Examples 1 to 3.

【0048】試験結果は、表5に示されるように、本発
明は嵩高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量かつ通気度は
低く防風保温性に優れていた。
As shown in Table 5, the test results showed that the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties.

【0049】[0049]

【表5】 [Table 5]

【0050】〔実施例11、比較例9〕28ゲ−ジシン
グル丸編機にて、前記比較例1及び実施例2の複合糸条
を使用して裏鹿の子組織を編立て後、同様の精練染色仕
上げを行ったカバーファクターが25000の編地を作
成した。試験結果は、表5に示されるように、比較例9
は膨らみが小さく、防風保温性に劣っていた。一方、本
発明は嵩高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量かつ通気度
が低く防風保温性に優れていた。 〔実施例12、比較例10〕28ゲージダブル編機に
て、表地には前記比較例1及び実施例2の複合糸条を使
用し、裏地には通常のポリエステルマルチフィラメント
仮撚加工糸75d/36fを使用してスムース組織を編
立て後、同様の精練染色仕上げを行ったカバーファクタ
ーが23000の編地を作成した。
[Example 11, Comparative Example 9] Using a 28 gauge single circular knitting machine, using the composite yarns of Comparative Example 1 and Example 2 to knit a back fawn structure, the same scouring was performed. A knitted fabric having a dyeing finish and a cover factor of 25000 was prepared. The test results are shown in Table 5 as shown in Table 5.
Had a small swelling and was inferior in windproof and heat insulating properties. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. Example 12, Comparative Example 10 Using a 28 gauge double knitting machine, the composite yarns of Comparative Example 1 and Example 2 were used for the outer material, and the ordinary polyester multifilament false twisted yarn 75d / After knitting a smooth structure using 36f, a knitted fabric having a cover factor of 23000 was prepared by performing similar scouring and dyeing finishing.

【0051】試験結果は表6に示される通り、比較例1
0は膨らみが小さく軽量性に欠け、風合いも不良であっ
た。一方、本発明は嵩高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽
量かつ通気度は低く防風保温性に優れていた。 〔実施例13、比較例11〕28ゲージダブル丸編機に
て、表地には前記比較例1及び実施例2の複合糸条を使
用して天竺編組織を、裏地には通常のポリエステルマル
チフィラメント仮撚加工糸75d/36fを使用してメ
ッシュ組織で表地にインレイして編立て後、前記実施例
2と同様の精練染色仕上げを行ったカバーファクターが
21000の二層編地を作成した。
The test results are shown in Table 6, as shown in Comparative Example 1.
No. 0 had small swelling, lacked lightness, and had poor texture. On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties. [Example 13 and Comparative Example 11] Using a 28 gauge double circular knitting machine, the outer fabric is made of a knitted fabric using the composite yarns of Comparative Example 1 and Example 2, and the lining is made of ordinary polyester multifilament. A false twisted yarn 75d / 36f was used to inlay a knitted fabric on a surface material in a mesh structure, knitted, and then subjected to the same scouring and dyeing finishing as in Example 2 to prepare a two-layer knitted fabric having a cover factor of 21000.

【0052】試験結果は、表6に示されるように、比較
例11は膨らみが小さく、防風保温性にも劣っていた。
一方、本発明は嵩高いソフトタッチな風合いで、軽量か
つ通気度は低く防風保温性に優れていた。
As shown in the test results, as shown in Table 6, Comparative Example 11 had a small swelling and was inferior in windproof and heat insulating properties.
On the other hand, the present invention had a bulky soft touch feeling, was lightweight, had low air permeability, and was excellent in windproof and heat insulating properties.

【0053】[0053]

【表6】 [Table 6]

【0054】〔実施例14、比較例12〕低収縮成分糸
として、周長比Lrが1.00の丸型断面、1.80の
π型断面であるポリエチレンテレフタレートのマルチフ
ィラメント延伸糸75d/72fを紡糸し、前記実施例
1〜3と同条件で仮撚加工を行った加工糸(いずれも熱
収縮率2%、捲縮伸長率5%)を得た。一方高収縮成分
糸として、実施例9で用いた成分と同じポリエステルコ
ンジュゲート糸の50d/12f(熱収縮率20%)を
紡糸した。
Example 14 and Comparative Example 12 As a low-shrinkage component yarn, a multifilament drawn yarn 75d / 72f of polyethylene terephthalate having a round section with a circumference ratio Lr of 1.00 and a π-section with 1.80. Was spun to obtain a processed yarn (heat shrinkage 2%, crimp elongation 5%) in which false twisting was performed under the same conditions as in Examples 1 to 3. On the other hand, as the high shrinkage component yarn, the same polyester conjugate yarn as the component used in Example 9 was spun at 50d / 12f (heat shrinkage 20%).

【0055】次いで、前記を実施例1〜3と同様に両糸
を引揃えてインタレース法により交絡混繊した異収縮複
合糸(熱収縮率差18%)を調整し、シンカーパイル編
機26ゲージを用いて、該複合糸条を地糸として天竺組
織を、同時に通常のポリエステル延伸糸50d/36f
をパイル糸として地組織に編み込みながら片面パイルと
した組織のパイル編地を作成した。該編地を精練染色
後、起毛機にて裏表ににカット起毛(毛足約8mm長)
を施した両面起毛布を熱セット仕上げによりカバーファ
クター35000の編地を作成した。
Next, as in the case of Examples 1 to 3, both yarns were aligned, and a different shrinkage composite yarn (18% heat shrinkage difference) entangled and mixed by the interlacing method was adjusted. Using a gauge, the composite yarn is used as ground yarn to form a sheeting structure, and simultaneously a normal polyester drawn yarn 50d / 36f
Was knitted into a ground structure as a pile yarn to prepare a pile knitted fabric having a single-sided pile structure. After scouring and dyeing the knitted fabric, it is brushed on both sides with a napping machine (hair length about 8 mm).
The knitted fabric having a cover factor of 35000 was prepared by heat setting finishing the double-faced raised cloth subjected to the heat treatment.

【0056】試験結果は、表7に示されるように、比較
例12は膨らみが小さく風合いが粗硬で、防風保温性に
も劣っていた。本発明の実施例は、風合いがソフトで、
軽量かつ通気度が低く防風保温性に優れていた。
As shown in Table 7, as shown in Table 7, Comparative Example 12 had a small swelling, a rough texture, and was inferior in windproof and heat insulating properties. The embodiment of the present invention has a soft texture,
It was lightweight, low in air permeability, and excellent in wind and heat insulation.

【0057】[0057]

【表7】 [Table 7]

【0058】[0058]

【発明の効果】本発明の防風性編地は、編地特性を損な
うことなく通気性を低減でき、しかも膨らみ感、軽量
感、ソフトタッチ感をもった、防風保温性能に優れる編
地であり、秋冬物衣料用素材として、商品価値の高いも
のである。
The windproof knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric which can reduce the air permeability without impairing the knitted fabric characteristics, and has a swelling feeling, a light weight feeling and a soft touch feeling, and is excellent in windproof and heat insulating performance. It has high commercial value as a material for clothing in autumn and winter.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 編物の少なくとも一層が熱収縮率差5%
以上を有する異収縮複合糸条で構成された編地であっ
て、該複合糸条を構成する低収縮成分糸が下記式で求め
る周長比Lrが1.2以上である異型断面形状の単糸か
らなるマルチフィラメント糸からなり、該複合糸条を用
いた編地層のカバーファクターが15000〜6000
0、かつ編地の通気度が70cc/cm2 /sec以下
であることを特徴とする防風性編地 Lr=L1 /L2 (但し、式中、L1 は低収縮成分糸の単糸周長(cm)
を表し、L2 は低収縮成分糸の単糸断面積S1 (c
2 )と同一面積の円形断面の周長(cm)を表し、L
2 =2×(π×S1 0.5 で算出される)。
At least one layer of the knitted fabric has a heat shrinkage difference of 5%.
A knitted fabric composed of the hetero-shrinkage composite yarn having the above, wherein the low-shrinkage component yarn constituting the composite yarn has a circumference ratio Lr determined by the following equation of 1.2 or more. And a cover factor of a knitted fabric layer using the composite yarn is 15,000 to 6,000.
0, and the air permeability of the knitted fabric is 70 cc / cm 2 / sec or less Lr = L 1 / L 2 (where L 1 is a single yarn of a low shrinkage component yarn Circumference (cm)
And L 2 is the single yarn cross-sectional area S 1 (c
m 2 ) represents the circumference (cm) of a circular cross section having the same area as
2 = 2 × (π × S 1 ) 0.5 ).
JP10351524A 1998-12-10 1998-12-10 Windbreaking knitted fabric Pending JP2000170061A (en)

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Publication Number Publication Date
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Family

ID=18417880

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Country Link
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002038360A (en) * 2000-07-25 2002-02-06 Malden Mills Ind Inc Double-knit fabric with moisture controlled and improved thermal properties
WO2004009895A1 (en) * 2002-07-22 2004-01-29 Teijin Fibers Limited Flat multifilament yarn knit fabric
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