JP2000154440A - Production of new lightweight woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a lightweight woven fabric rich in lightweight property, excellent in soft and dry touch, resilience and firmness and having a good crepe. SOLUTION: This lightweight woven fabric is obtained by weaving with using a composite yarn obtained by mixing and interlacing a yarn A having <=50 Young's modulus and <=30% shrinkage by boiling water, and obtained by performing a heat-treatment on a highly oriented un-stretched fiber, of which main recurring unit consists of ethylene terephthalate, having a deformed cross section, 5-30% void rate and 1.3-3.5 deforming rate, with one kind, or two or more kinds of synthetic fiber multifilament yarns B having >=1.0 denier single fiber thickness, in a part or a whole of the woven fabric, and then performing dyeing and finishing processes.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a lightweight and dry feeling,
The present invention relates to a method for producing a novel lightweight fabric excellent in firmness and strength.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a lightweight woven fabric using hollow fibers has a light weight, but has a texture like raw yarn and lacks a soft feeling and bulkiness, so that it is used for clothing such as windbreakers and skis. Is mainly used for sportswear, but is not used much for clothing for casual use, women's use, and the like. In recent years, there has been a strong demand for a material that is improved in texture and has functions such as lightness and heat retention, and is excellent in a feeling of wearing.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above situation, and is lightweight, dry, and firm.
An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a novel lightweight fabric excellent in stiffness.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned object, and the main repeating unit is composed of ethylene terephthalate, having a hollow ratio of 5 to 30% and a degree of irregularity of 1.3.
Polyester multifilament yarn having a Young's modulus of 50 g / denier or less and a boiling water shrinkage of 30% or less, which is obtained by subjecting a highly oriented undrawn yarn having an irregular cross-sectional shape of 3.5 to 3.5 to a heat treatment. One or two types of yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or more
The gist of the present invention is a novel method for producing a lightweight woven fabric, which comprises performing weaving using a composite yarn obtained by blending and entanglement of at least one kind with a part or all of a woven fabric, and then performing a dyeing finish.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present invention, first, as a fiber constituting the woven fabric, the main repeating unit is made of ethylene terephthalate,
A yarn obtained by performing a heat treatment on a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a hollow ratio of 5 to 30% and a degree of irregularity of 1.3 to 3.5 and having a Young's modulus of 50 g / denier or less; A polyester multifilament yarn A having a boiling water shrinkage of 30% or less and one or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns B having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or more are mixed.
Use entangled composite yarn. The polyester multifilament yarn A used in the present invention may be any polyester polymer in which the main repeating unit capable of melt spinning is ethylene terephthalate, and a third component is added or copolymerized for the purpose of improving performance. Polymer.

[0006] The yarn A is a yarn having a hollow portion in its cross section, and the number of hollow portions in the cross section may be not only one but plural. The hollow ratio of the yarn A is 5 to 30%.
It is necessary to be. The hollow ratio is obtained by calculating the area of the hollow portion in the cross section as A and the area of the non-hollow portion as B, using the following formula. Hollow ratio (%) = [A / (A + B)] × 100 When the hollow ratio is less than 5%, the difference in weight from ordinary non-hollow fiber is small, resulting in a lack of lightness. %, The lightness is improved, but the spinnability tends to be inferior, and the strength of the fiber is reduced, the abrasion resistance is weakened, and the problem of fibrillation occurs, which is not preferable.

As shown in FIG. 2, the degree of heterogeneity of the hollow multifilament yarn of the yarn A is such that the diameter D ₂ of the circumscribed circle of the entire projection a in the cross section of the fiber passes through a point located at the bottom of the projection a. can be expressed by a value obtained by dividing the diameter D ₁ of the Se'en,
In the present invention, it is necessary that the degree of heterogeneity is in the range of 1.3 to 3.5. When the degree of irregularity is less than 1.3, fine deformation is not formed on the outer peripheral portion of the fiber cross section, the shape becomes close to the round cross-sectional shape of ordinary yarn, and the outer peripheral portion of the fiber cross section is finely deformed. The dry feeling of the texture resulting from the irregular cross-sectional shape is inferior to that of the original yarn. Conversely, when the degree of irregularity exceeds 3.5, the feeling of dry feeling is excellent, but the abrasion resistance is weakened, which is not suitable.

When the yarn A used in the present invention has an irregular cross-sectional shape, the gap between the single yarns is increased, and the lightening effect on the woven fabric is increased. That is, by making the fiber into a hollow fiber having a modified cross section, it is possible to exert a further lightening effect in addition to the weight reduction due to the hollow ratio and the weight reduction due to the increase in the gap between the single yarns.

The cross-sectional shape of the hollow multifilament yarn having the irregular cross-section of the yarn A used in the present invention has, for example, as shown in FIG. A well shape or a shape having a projection c on the outer periphery and a hollow portion d inside as shown in FIG. 1B is preferably used, but other shapes may be used. It is not limited to the shape.

Further, the yarn A is a yarn in which the highly oriented undrawn yarn is subjected to a heat treatment to have a Young's modulus of 50 g / denier or less and a boiling water shrinkage of 30% or less. The heat treatment of the highly oriented undrawn yarn used for the yarn A can be performed by, for example, an apparatus shown in FIG. In FIG. 3, a highly oriented undrawn yarn 1
Is pulled out of the bobbin by the first feed roller 2 and the first feed roller 2 and the second feed roller 3
Is heated by the heater 4 and supplied to the winding section to be wound.

The heat treatment conditions for the highly oriented undrawn yarn must be such that the Young's modulus of the yarn A after the heat treatment is 50 g / denier or less. First feed roller 2 and second feed roller
When the draw ratio between the feed roller 3 and the feed roller 3 is large, not only is it difficult to reduce the Young's modulus of the heat-treated yarn A to 50 g / denier or less, but also the hollow yarn is deformed or reduced in size, which is preferable. Can not be obtained.

Next, it is necessary to perform the heat treatment at the time of the heat treatment in a temperature range in which the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn A is 30% or less. Boiling water shrinkage of yarn A after heat treatment is 30%
If it is above, the heat setting effect inside the fiber is poor, and when heated by dyeing or the like, the fabric is hardened and the texture becomes hard, and the dimensional stability is deteriorated, so that a preferable one cannot be obtained.

In the present invention, as the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or more, which is used in combination with the polyester multifilament yarn A, a polyester multifilament or a polyamide multifilament is used. Multifilament yarns may be mentioned, and any of these modified cross-section yarns, mixed fineness yarns, different shrinkage mixed yarns, and crimped yarns may have any properties. The single yarn fiber of the yarn B needs to be 1.0 denier or more.
Preferably 1.5 to 6 denier, more preferably 2 to
4 denier. If the single-filament fineness of the yarn B is less than 1.0 denier, the stiffness and stiffness of the woven fabric are insufficient, and a satisfactory product cannot be obtained.

Further, in the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn B is not particularly limited, and any of those having a large difference in the boiling water shrinkage with the yarn A and those having almost no boiling water shrinkage can be used. You may. In order to improve the width at the time of the relaxation treatment in the dyeing finishing process to obtain a more bulky and soft feel, the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn B is preferably 8% or more, preferably 20 to 35%. It is more preferable to have them.

In the present invention, one or more of the above-mentioned yarns A and B are used in a woven fabric as a composite yarn obtained by mixing and entanglement. As a method of blending and entanglement of the yarn A and the yarn B, a method of entanglement by air treatment in a drawn-up state or a core-sheath structure in which the core yarn and the sheath yarn have a difference in yarn length can be used. In the present invention, when the above-described yarn A and yarn B are mixed and entangled to form a composite yarn, two or more types of yarns can be used as the yarn B. When two or more yarns B are used, the combination of the yarns B may be a method of combining a polyamide yarn and a polyester dyeable type dyeable yarn to obtain a different color effect, or a method of boiling water to obtain swelling and firmness. A method using two or more kinds of yarns having different shrinkage ratios can be used.

In the present invention, the composite yarn in which the yarn A and the yarn B are mixed and entangled is woven using at least a part or all of the yarn used in the woven fabric, and dyed and finished. The weaving and dyeing finishing may be performed under ordinary conditions using conventional equipment. As described above, it is possible to obtain a novel lightweight woven fabric which is lightweight, excellent in dry feeling and firmness.

The novel lightweight woven fabric of the present invention is obtained by mixing and entanglement of a heat-treated yarn and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn of a hollow multifilament yarn having an irregular cross section in which the outer peripheral portion of the hollow fiber is finely deformed. Since the woven fabric is composed using composite yarns, it is possible to provide the fabric with an appropriate dry feeling and a crisp feeling due to the minute deformation of the outer peripheral portion of the cross section of the hollow fiber. An excellent lightweight feeling can be obtained by the synergistic addition of the void effect between the single yarns due to the irregular shape of the outer periphery. Further, by mixing and entanglement of one or more kinds of synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or more,
Stable fabric properties can be imparted, and good firmness and firmness and a characteristic texture can be arbitrarily obtained. in this way,
The fabric of the present invention has characteristics that are not seen in conventional fabrics in terms of feeling and lightness.

In the present invention, the Young's modulus is determined by using a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester with a sample length of 30 cm and a tensile speed of 30 cm /.
JIS-L101 from the load-elongation curve measured in min.
3 is a value calculated by the following equation. Young's modulus (g / denier) = P / D Here, P: load (g) at an elongation of 100%, D: fineness (denier). Boiling water shrinkage is calculated by setting the yarn to an initial load of 1.
g / denier (A), then treated in free water for 30 minutes in boiled water, air-dried, initial load 1
The length (B) is measured under g / denier, and is a value calculated by the following equation. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = ((AB) / A) × 100

[0019]

The present invention will be described below in more detail with reference to examples. The performance evaluation of the woven fabric in the examples was performed by the following method. (1) Lightness The thickness (mm) of the sample and the weight (g) per square meter are measured, and the weight (g) per square meter is divided by the thickness (mm). A smaller value indicates a lighter weight. (2) Texture The bulkiness, softness, dryness and firmness were relatively evaluated by a sensory test by handling. ：: very good ：: good ×: inferior (3) Abrasion Gakushin type friction method (JIS L-1084): Two cotton cloths are stacked on each other and mounted on an arc surface, and then a friction element having a radius of curvature of 1.5 mm The sample was mounted on a rubbing cloth at a total load of 400 gf for 30 minutes per minute.
It was rubbed at reciprocating speeds and observed and evaluated for changes in appearance. ◎: Very good ○: Good ×: Poor

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.38 and a melting point of 256 ° C. was spun at a spinning temperature of 295 ° C. using a usual spinning apparatus.
Spin at 3000m / min spinning speed, fineness 60 denier, number of filaments 16, elongation 96%, Young's modulus 20g
/ Denier, a boiling water shrinkage of 63%, a hollowness of 7%, and a degree of irregularity of 1.8. Using the apparatus shown in FIG.
First feed roller 600 m / min, second feed roller 600 m / min, stretching ratio 1.0, heater temperature 42
Heat treatment was performed at 5 ° C. to obtain a polyester filament yarn A having a Young's modulus of 20 g / denier and a boiling water shrinkage of 6%. This yarn A and a normal polyester multifilament yarn 30 denier / 12 filaments (single yarn fineness 2.5 denier) are supplied to a DuPont JD-1 interlacer at a yarn speed of 800 m / min and an overfeed rate of 2%. Then, the fibers were mixed and entangled under the condition of an air pressure of 2.0 kg / cm ² to obtain a composite mixed yarn having a number of entanglements of 40 / m. Using the obtained composite mixed yarn for the warp and the weft, a warp density of 80 yarns /
Inch, weft density of 75 yarns / inch plain weave, scouring (liquid jet dyeing machine: 80 ° C. × 20 minutes) → preset (tenter, 1)
80 ° C x 40 seconds) → weight loss (caustic soda 40g / liter, weight loss rate 18%) → dyeing (liquid jet dyeing machine, 130 ° C x 3)
0 minutes, dye Foron Yellow SE-CTL 2% owf, Foron Rubine
(SE-CTL 0.2% owf, Foron DarkBlue S-CTL 0.3% owf) →
Dyeing and finishing were performed in a finishing set (tenter, 170 ° C. × 30 seconds) step to obtain a novel lightweight fabric according to the present invention.

Examples 2-3, Comparative Examples 1-7 Hollowness and irregularity of highly oriented undrawn yarn, heat treatment conditions, yarn B
The woven fabrics of Examples 2 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were obtained by changing the single yarn fineness of Table 2 as shown in Table 1. Example 1 obtained
Table 1 also shows the performance evaluation results of the woven fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7.

[0022]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 3 according to the present invention are lightweight, bulky, soft and dry and have firmness and stiffness, showing satisfactory results. ing. In contrast, Comparative Example 1 using a yarn having a hollow ratio of less than 5% as the yarn A is inferior in lightness, and Comparative Example 2 using a yarn having a hollow ratio of 30% or more.
Was unsatisfactory as a woven fabric having poor abrasion properties. Comparative Example 3 using a yarn having a degree of irregularity of less than 1.3
Was inferior in dry feeling. Comparative Example 4 using a yarn having a degree of irregularity of 3.6 or more was unsatisfactory because of poor abrasion. Comparative Example 5, in which a yarn having a Young's modulus of 50 g / denier or more, was used as the yarn A, was unsatisfactory because of insufficient soft feeling. Comparative Example 6, in which the boiling water shrinkage of the yarn A is 30% or more, is thermally cured by the dyeing process, and the softness is deteriorated, which is not satisfactory. Comparative Example 7 using a yarn having a single yarn fineness of less than 1.0 denier as the yarn B was inferior in firmness and firmness.

[0024]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a novel lightweight fabric which is rich in lightness, excellent in softness, dryness and firmness.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is an example of a cross-sectional shape that can be used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a circumscribed circle and an inscribed circle when the degree of atypicality is evaluated in the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a simplified side view of a heat treatment machine used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Undrawn yarn package 2 1st feed roller 3 2nd feed roller 4 Heater 5 Winding bobbin a Projection b Hollow portion c Projection portion d Hollow portion

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A main repeating unit is composed of ethylene terephthalate, has a hollow ratio of 5 to 30%, and a degree of atypicality of 1.3.
Polyester multifilament yarn having a Young's modulus of 50 g / denier or less and a boiling water shrinkage of 30% or less, which is obtained by subjecting a highly oriented undrawn yarn having an irregular cross-sectional shape of 3.5 to 3.5 to a heat treatment. One or two types of yarn A and a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn B having a single yarn fineness of 1.0 denier or more
A method for producing a novel lightweight woven fabric, comprising woven using a composite yarn obtained by mixing and entanglement with a seed or more for part or all of a woven fabric, and then performing a dyeing finish.