HRP20220568A1 - Formulation of a functional cosmetic ingredient, procedure of its preparation and use - Google Patents
Formulation of a functional cosmetic ingredient, procedure of its preparation and use Download PDFInfo
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- HRP20220568A1 HRP20220568A1 HRP20220568AA HRP20220568A HRP20220568A1 HR P20220568 A1 HRP20220568 A1 HR P20220568A1 HR P20220568A A HRP20220568A A HR P20220568AA HR P20220568 A HRP20220568 A HR P20220568A HR P20220568 A1 HRP20220568 A1 HR P20220568A1
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- Croatia
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic ingredient
- resveratrol
- ingredient according
- phosphatidyl
- functional cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 53
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims description 18
- LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N Trans-resveratrol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C1=CC(O)=CC(O)=C1 LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 75
- QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Resveratrol Natural products OC1=CC=CC(C=CC=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 63
- 235000021283 resveratrol Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 229940016667 resveratrol Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acetate Chemical compound CCOC(C)=O XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerophosphorylethanolamin Natural products NCCOP(O)(=O)OCC(O)CO JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N phosphatidylcholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000008104 phosphatidylethanolamines Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 150000003905 phosphatidylinositols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000035614 depigmentation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- TZCPCKNHXULUIY-RGULYWFUSA-N 1,2-distearoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoserine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP(O)(=O)OC[C@H](N)C(O)=O)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC TZCPCKNHXULUIY-RGULYWFUSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- ZWZWYGMENQVNFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerophosphorylserin Natural products OC(=O)C(N)COP(O)(=O)OCC(O)CO ZWZWYGMENQVNFU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 5
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- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 claims description 25
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
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- BGNXCDMCOKJUMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tert-Butylhydroquinone Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=CC(O)=CC=C1O BGNXCDMCOKJUMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropanol acetate Natural products CC(C)OC(C)=O JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 240000000385 Brassica napus var. napus Species 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000006618 Brassica rapa subsp oleifera Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004322 Butylated hydroxytoluene Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butylhydroxytoluene Chemical compound CC1=CC(C(C)(C)C)=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1 NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ZTHYODDOHIVTJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propyl gallate Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 ZTHYODDOHIVTJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- YKYONYBAUNKHLG-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Propyl acetate Natural products CCCOC(C)=O YKYONYBAUNKHLG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 239000004250 tert-Butylhydroquinone Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019281 tert-butylhydroquinone Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- KXKVLQRXCPHEJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N acetic acid trimethyl ester Natural products COC(C)=O KXKVLQRXCPHEJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002260 anti-inflammatory agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940121363 anti-inflammatory agent Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
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- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000008350 hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940011051 isopropyl acetate Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- GWYFCOCPABKNJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N isovaleric acid Chemical compound CC(C)CC(O)=O GWYFCOCPABKNJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010992 reflux Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 3
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- 235000011292 Brassica rapa Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000009438 Gossypium Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M Propionate Chemical compound CCC([O-])=O XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940087168 alpha tocopherol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011668 ascorbic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000008105 phosphatidylcholines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229960000984 tocofersolan Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
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- NQPDZGIKBAWPEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N valeric acid Chemical compound CCCCC(O)=O NQPDZGIKBAWPEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000037330 wrinkle prevention Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002076 α-tocopherol Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000004835 α-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical class OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000004255 Butylated hydroxyanisole Substances 0.000 claims 2
- CZBZUDVBLSSABA-UHFFFAOYSA-N butylated hydroxyanisole Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1.COC1=CC=C(O)C=C1C(C)(C)C CZBZUDVBLSSABA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- 239000011703 D-panthenol Substances 0.000 description 3
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- PZNPLUBHRSSFHT-RRHRGVEJSA-N 1-hexadecanoyl-2-octadecanoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PZNPLUBHRSSFHT-RRHRGVEJSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- YVHVGFSDGHMIIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2-tert-butylsulfonylethynylsulfonyl)-2-methylpropane Chemical compound CC(C)(C)S(=O)(=O)C#CS(=O)(=O)C(C)(C)C YVHVGFSDGHMIIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MGYAGUUKOYNYAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(oxan-2-yl)oxane Chemical compound O1CCCCC1C1OCCCC1 MGYAGUUKOYNYAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Izum otkriva funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak temeljen na liposomalnom resveratrolu (1) u bazi fosfolipida izabranih iz skupine koju čine: fosfatidil kolin, fosfatidil inositol, fosfatidil etanolamin, fosfatidil serin, nativni lecitini ili njihovi derivati, ili smjese navedenih tvari. Izum otkriva i postupak priprave predmetnog kozmetičkog sastojka putem otapanja rečenih fosfolipida u organskom otapalu poput etil acetata, otapanje resveratrola (1) u tako dobivenoj otopini, te uparavanje organskog otapala u vakuumu, pri čemu nastaje kozmetički sastojak prema izumu u liposomalnom obliku, kao polukruta homogena masa. Kozmetički sastojak prema izumu koristi se kao sirovina za proizvodnju različitih kozmetičkih proizvoda na bazi resveratrola jer omogućava lako inkorporiranje u različite tipove formulacija povećavajući njegovu topljivost. Isti se koristi kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno i depigmentacijsko sredstvo, za prevenciju nastanka i ublažavanje bora, za tretman strija, za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, te za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. The invention reveals a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1) in a base of phospholipids selected from the group consisting of: phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl inositol, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, native lecithins or their derivatives, or mixtures of the aforementioned substances. The invention also discloses the procedure for preparing the related cosmetic ingredient by dissolving said phospholipids in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate, dissolving resveratrol (1) in the solution thus obtained, and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, whereby the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is formed in liposomal form, as a semi-solid homogeneous mass. The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility. It is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and mitigation of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and for improving the barrier function of the skin.The invention reveals a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1) in a base of phospholipids selected from the group consisting of: phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl inositol, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, native lecithins or their derivatives, or mixtures of the aforementioned substances. The invention also discloses the procedure for preparing the cosmetic ingredient in question by dissolving said phospholipids in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate, dissolving resveratrol (1) in the solution thus obtained, and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, whereby the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is formed in liposomal form, as a semi-solid homogeneous mass. The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as a raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility. It is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and mitigation of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and for improving the barrier function of the skin. The invention reveals a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1) in a base of phospholipids selected from the group consisting of: phosphatidyl choline, phosphatidyl inositol, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, native lecithins or their derivatives, or mixtures of the aforementioned substances . The invention also discloses the procedure for preparing the related cosmetic ingredient by dissolving said phospholipids in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate, dissolving resveratrol (1) in the solution thus obtained, and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, whereby the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is formed in liposomal form, as a semi-solid homogeneous mass. The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility. It is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and mitigation of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and for improving the barrier function of the skin.
Description
Područje tehnike The field of technology
Predmetni izum odnosi se na funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak na bazi liposomalnog resveratrola (1), na postupak njegove priprave i primjenu. The present invention relates to a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1), its preparation and application.
[image] [image]
Tehnički problem Technical problem
Tehnički problem odnosi se na tehnologiju ugradnje poznate i vrijedne aktivne kozmetičke supstancije resveratrola (1) u različite kozmetičke proizvode. Resveratrol (1) je slabo topljiv u vodi te je kao derivat resorcinola osjetljiv na oksidaciju kad se jednom otopi u vodenoj fazi koja je relativno bogatija otopljenim kisikom. The technical problem relates to the technology of incorporating the well-known and valuable active cosmetic substance resveratrol (1) into various cosmetic products. Resveratrol (1) is poorly soluble in water and, as a resorcinol derivative, is sensitive to oxidation once dissolved in the aqueous phase, which is relatively richer in dissolved oxygen.
Predmetni izum rješava rečeni tehnički problem uz primjenu složenog kozmetičkog sastojka koji sadrži enkapsulirani resveratrol u liposomima na bazi lecitina ili njegovih derivata. The subject invention solves said technical problem with the application of a complex cosmetic ingredient containing encapsulated resveratrol in liposomes based on lecithin or its derivatives.
Primjena složenog sastojka prema izumu omogućava jednostavnu ugradnju resveratrola u različite kozmetičke formulacije čime se pojednostavljuje tehnologija njihove proizvodnje i dobivaju stabilni proizvodi. The use of the complex ingredient according to the invention enables simple incorporation of resveratrol into various cosmetic formulations, which simplifies the technology of their production and obtains stable products.
Prethodno stanje tehnike Prior art
Resveratrol (1), 3,5,4'-trihidroksi-trans-stilben ili 5-[(E)-2-(4-hidroksifenil)eten-1-il]benzen-1,3-diol je poznati prirodni spoj koji je široko zastupljen u biljnom svijetu. Koristi se kao aktivna nutritivna i kozmetička supstancija. Najbogatiji izvor prirodnog resveratrola je korijen biljke japanski dvornik (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.) koja se uglavnom uzgaja u Kini i Japanu. Resveratrol pokazuje preventivno djelovanje na nastanak raka kože, antikancerogeno i antioksidativno djelovanje, štiti kožu od oštećenja uzrokovanih UV zrakama, zatim protuupalno i depigmentacijsko djelovanje, spriječava nastanak i liječi akne, ubrzava zacjeljivanje rana te pomaže kod psorijaze, ekcema i drugih eksfolijativnih poremećaja kože; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 1: Resveratrol (1), 3,5,4'-trihydroxy-trans-stilbene or 5-[(E)-2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)ethen-1-yl]benzene-1,3-diol is a known natural compound that is widely represented in the plant world. It is used as an active nutritional and cosmetic substance. The richest source of natural resveratrol is the root of the Japanese gorse plant (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.), which is mainly grown in China and Japan. Resveratrol shows a preventive effect on the occurrence of skin cancer, anti-cancer and antioxidant effect, protects the skin from damage caused by UV rays, then anti-inflammatory and depigmentation effect, prevents the occurrence and cures acne, accelerates wound healing and helps with psoriasis, eczema and other exfoliative skin disorders; see literature reference 1:
1) R. R. Watson, S. Zibadi (Editori): Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in dermatology; Chapter 18: D. K. Das, H. Vasanthi: Resveratrol in Dermal Health, 177-187; Humana Press (2013). 1) R.R. Watson, S. Zibadi (Editors): Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in dermatology; Chapter 18: D. K. Das, H. Vasanthi: Resveratrol in Dermal Health, 177-187; Humana Press (2013).
Glavni tehnički problemi povezani s primjenom resveratrola (1) u kozmetičkim formulacijama su slaba topljivost u vodi i osjetljivost na oksidaciju u otopljenom stanju te time sklonost na oksidativni raspad. The main technical problems associated with the use of resveratrol (1) in cosmetic formulations are low solubility in water and sensitivity to oxidation in the dissolved state, and thus a tendency to oxidative decay.
U stanju tehnike su opisana određena rješenja za navedeni tehnički problem putem različitih metoda enkapsulacije resveratrola u različite čestice mikro- i nano-veličina, koje povećavaju topljivost resveratrola i njegovu stabilnost prema procesu oksidacije. The state of the art describes certain solutions for the mentioned technical problem through different methods of resveratrol encapsulation in different micro- and nano-sized particles, which increase the solubility of resveratrol and its stability according to the oxidation process.
Tako su primjerice Chen i Liao opisali nano-čestice resveratrola enkapsuliranog u lecitin. Njihov postupak uključuje miješanje otopine lecitina i otopine resveratrola uz nastanak otopine koja se potom dodaje u vodenu fazu, vjerojatno radi precipitacije nano-čestica. Potonje se podvrgavaju procesu pročišćavanja, pri čemu se dobivaju lecitinom enkapsulirane čestice resveratrola nano-dimenzija; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 2: For example, Chen and Liao described nano-particles of resveratrol encapsulated in lecithin. Their process involves mixing a lecithin solution and a resveratrol solution to form a solution that is then added to the aqueous phase, presumably to precipitate nanoparticles. The latter are subjected to a purification process, whereby lecithin-encapsulated resveratrol particles of nano-dimensions are obtained; see literature reference 2:
2) CN112773728A; W. Chen, W. Liao: Nano resveratrol-coated compound as well as preparation method and application thereof; nositelj: Sveučilište Jiangxi Normal Sci&Tech i Sveučilište Sun Yat Sen; Kina (CN). 2) CN112773728A; W. Chen, W. Liao: Nano resveratrol-coated compound as well as preparation method and application thereof; holder: Jiangxi Normal Sci&Tech University and Sun Yat Sen University; China (CN).
Slično rješenje putem enkapsulacije resveratrola opisali su Che i suradnici, a koje se temelji na primjeni lecitina i fitosterola te polietilen glikol (PEG)-polipeptida kao sredstva za oblaganje u procesu enkapsulacije resveratrola i vitamina kao dodatnih aktivnih supstancija. Pri tome se dobiva enkapsulirani oblik resveratrola koji se koristi kao aktivna supstancija za funkcionalnu hranu; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 3: A similar solution via resveratrol encapsulation was described by Che et al., which is based on the use of lecithin and phytosterols and polyethylene glycol (PEG)-polypeptide as coating agents in the resveratrol encapsulation process and vitamins as additional active substances. In doing so, an encapsulated form of resveratrol is obtained, which is used as an active substance for functional food; see literature reference 3:
3) CN111955730A; F. Che, D. Wang, C. Che, Y. Guo, C. Bai, L. Peng: Health-care food containing natural resveratrol and preparation method of health-care food; nositelj: Dongming Growth Biotechnology Co. Ltd., Kina (CN). 3) CN111955730A; F. Che, D. Wang, C. Che, Y. Guo, C. Bai, L. Peng: Health-care food containing natural resveratrol and preparation method of health-care food; holder: Dongming Growth Biotechnology Co. Ltd., China (CN).
Nadalje, slično rješenje opisao je i Li, a temelji se na primjeni smjese fosfatidil kolina, sojinog lecitina, kolesterola, polivinil pirolidona (PVP), hidroksipropil celuloze i tenzida Tween-80 i Tween 85 te fosfonatnog pufera kao sredstava za enkapsuliranje resveratrola u liposome; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 4: Furthermore, a similar solution was described by Li, and it is based on the application of a mixture of phosphatidyl choline, soy lecithin, cholesterol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), hydroxypropyl cellulose and surfactants Tween-80 and Tween 85 and phosphonate buffer as agents for encapsulating resveratrol in liposomes; see literature reference 4:
4) CN1951368A; W. Li: Oral resveratrol multi-phase liposome and preparation method thereof; nositelj: Wanzhong Li, Kina (CN). 4) CN1951368A; W. Li: Oral resveratrol multi-phase liposome and preparation method thereof; holder: Wanzhong Li, China (CN).
Prema našem najboljem saznanju, najbliži dokument stanja tehnike predmetnom izumu je patent Wu i suradnika koji otkriva liposomalne čestice resveratrola nano-dimenzija, koje se temelje na primjeni sojinog lecitina i kolesterola u prisustvu antioksidansa kao sredstava za formiranje liposoma u koje se ugrađuje resveratrol (1); vidjeti literaturnu referencu 5: To the best of our knowledge, the closest state-of-the-art document to the invention in question is the patent by Wu et al. which discloses liposomal resveratrol particles of nano-dimensions, which are based on the use of soy lecithin and cholesterol in the presence of antioxidants as agents for the formation of liposomes in which resveratrol is incorporated (1) ; see literature reference 5:
5) CN111920771; Y. Wu, Z. Sun, J. Chang, P. Fu, J. Li: Resveratrol nano-liposome as well as preparation method and application thereof; nositelj: Sveučilište Henan, Kina (CN). 5) CN111920771; Y. Wu, Z. Sun, J. Chang, P. Fu, J. Li: Resveratrol nano-liposome as well as preparation method and application thereof; host: Henan University, China (CN).
Predmetni izum rješava definirani tehnički problem na nov i inventivan način kako je to opisano u poglavlju Detaljni opis izuma. The subject invention solves the defined technical problem in a new and inventive way as described in the chapter Detailed description of the invention.
Bit izuma The essence of invention
Predmetni izum otkriva složeni funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak koji se sastoji od slijedećih sastojaka: The subject invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient consisting of the following ingredients:
(a) fosfolipida (PL) poput različitih lecitina ili njegovih derivata, 50-90% m/m, (a) phospholipids (PL) such as various lecithins or their derivatives, 50-90% m/m,
(b) resveratrola (1), 10-50% m/m, (b) resveratrol (1), 10-50% m/m,
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i, opcionalno, and, optionally,
(c) antioksidans (AO), 0-0,2% m/m, (c) antioxidant (AO), 0-0.2% m/m,
pri čemu sastojak (a) tvori liposomalne čestice u koje se smještaju molekule sastojaka (b) i (c). whereby ingredient (a) forms liposomal particles in which the molecules of ingredients (b) and (c) are placed.
Preferirano, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu sadrži sastojke (a) i (b) u masenim udjelima kao niže: Preferably, the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention contains ingredients (a) and (b) in mass proportions as below:
(a) fosfolipid (PL), 60-65% m/m, (a) phospholipid (PL), 60-65% m/m,
(b) resveratrol (1), 35-40% m/m. (b) resveratrol (1), 35-40% w/w.
U posebnom slučaju primjene predmetnog izuma, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak sadrži sastojke (a) i (b) u masenim udjelima kako je navedeno niže: In a special case of application of the subject invention, the functional cosmetic ingredient contains ingredients (a) and (b) in mass proportions as stated below:
(a) fosfolipid (PL), 63% m/m, i (a) phospholipid (PL), 63% w/w, i
(b) resveratrol (1), 37% m/m. (b) resveratrol (1), 37% w/w.
Predmetni izum otkriva postupak priprave rečenog liposomalnog oblika resveratrola koji se bazira na otapanju fosfolipida (PL) u prikladnom organskom otapalu poput etila acetata (EtOAc), potom otapanju resveratrola (1) u tako pripremljenoj otopini te potom uparavanje organskog otapala u blagim uvjetima u vakuumu. The present invention discloses the preparation process of said liposomal form of resveratrol, which is based on dissolving phospholipids (PL) in a suitable organic solvent such as ethyl acetate (EtOAc), then dissolving resveratrol (1) in the thus prepared solution, and then evaporating the organic solvent under mild conditions in a vacuum.
Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu koristi se kao funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak za pripravu različitih kozmetičkih formulacija na bazi resveratrola (1) u oblicima izabranim iz skupine koju čine: losioni otopine, losioni emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), losioni emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kreme emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), kreme emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), serumi otopine, serumi emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), serumi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kozmetičke maske, stikovi za njegu ispod pazuha, ruževi za njegu usana, gelovi otopine ili gelovi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W). The functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil emulsion lotions (W-O), oil-in-water emulsion lotions ( O-W), water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, solution serums, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, sticks for underarm care, lip care lipsticks, solution gels or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.
Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu koristi se kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak (ACI) koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. The functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient (ACI) that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, wrinkle prevention agent, wrinkle softener, stretch mark treatment agent, skin tightening and rejuvenation agent, and as a to improve the barrier function of the skin.
Detaljni opis izuma Detailed description of the invention
Predmetni izum otkriva složeni funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak koji se sastoji od slijedećih sastojaka: The subject invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient consisting of the following ingredients:
(a) fosfolipida (PL), 50-90% m/m, (a) phospholipids (PL), 50-90% m/m,
(b) resveratrola (1) ili 3,4',5-trihidroksistilben, 10-50% m/m, (b) resveratrol (1) or 3,4',5-trihydroxystilbene, 10-50% m/m,
[image] [image]
i, opcionalno, and, optionally,
(c) antioksidans (AO), 0-0,2% m/m, (c) antioxidant (AO), 0-0.2% m/m,
pri čemu sastojak (a) tvori liposomalne čestice u koje se smještaju molekule sastojaka (b) i (c). whereby ingredient (a) forms liposomal particles in which the molecules of ingredients (b) and (c) are placed.
Sastojak (a), fosfolipid (PL), u formulaciji predmetnog funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka, je izabran iz skupine koju čine: Ingredient (a), phospholipid (PL), in the formulation of the subject functional cosmetic ingredient, is selected from the group consisting of:
(i) fosfatidil kolin (PC), fosfatidil inositol (PI), fosfatidil etanolamin (PE), fosfatidil serin (PS), (i) phosphatidyl choline (PC), phosphatidyl inositol (PI), phosphatidyl ethanolamine (PE), phosphatidyl serine (PS),
(ii) hidrogenirani fosfatidil kolin (HPC), hidrogenirani fosfatidil inositol (HPI), hidrogenirani fosfatidil etanolamin (HPE), hidrogenirani fosfatidil serin (HPS), (ii) hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline (HPC), hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol (HPI), hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine (HPE), hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine (HPS),
(iii) lecitin (L) izoliran iz suncokreta (Helianthus annuus L.), soje (Glycine max L.), repice (Brasica napus L.), kanole (Brassica rapa L.), pamuka (Gossypium spp L.) ili kokošjih (Gallus gallus domesticus) jaja, (iii) lecithin (L) isolated from sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.), soybean (Glycine max L.), rapeseed (Brasica napus L.), canola (Brassica rapa L.), cotton (Gossypium spp L.) or chicken (Gallus gallus domesticus) eggs,
(iv) hidrogenirani lecitin (HGL) dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolinog ili pamukova lecitina, ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, (iv) hydrogenated lecithin (HGL) obtained from sunflower, soybean, rapeseed, canola or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs,
(v) hidrolizirani lecitin (HL) dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolina ili pamukova lecitina, ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, (v) hydrolyzed lecithin (HL) obtained from sunflower, soybean, rapeseed, cannolin or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs,
ili smjese navedenih tvari. or mixtures of these substances.
Kao aktivna supstancija resveratrola (1) koristi se sintetski ili prirodni resveratrol izoliran iz različitih obogaćenih biljnih ekstrakata koji ga sadrže. Najpoznatiji izvor je ekstrakt biljke japanski dvornik (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.). The active substance of resveratrol (1) is synthetic or natural resveratrol isolated from various enriched plant extracts that contain it. The most well-known source is the extract of the Japanese gorse plant (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.).
Antioksidans (AO) u formulaciji predmetnog kozmetičkog sastojaka je izabran iz skupine koju čine: askorbinska kiselina, tokoferoli poput α-tokoferola, propil galat, butilirani hidroksianisol (BHA), butilirani hidroksitoluen (BHT), tercijarni butilhidrokinon (TBHQ), ili smjese navedenih tvari. The antioxidant (AO) in the formulation of the cosmetic ingredient in question is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as α-tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), tertiary butylhydroquinone (TBHQ), or mixtures of the aforementioned substances .
Preferirano, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu sadrži sastojke (a) i (b) u masenim udjelima kao niže: Preferably, the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention contains ingredients (a) and (b) in mass proportions as below:
(a) fosfolipid (PL), 60-65% m/m, (a) phospholipid (PL), 60-65% m/m,
(b) resveratrol (1), 35-40% m/m. (b) resveratrol (1), 35-40% w/w.
U posebnom slučaju primjene predmetnog izuma, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak sadrži sastojke (a) i (b) u masenim udjelima kako je navedeno niže: In a special case of application of the subject invention, the functional cosmetic ingredient contains ingredients (a) and (b) in mass proportions as stated below:
(a) fosfolipid (PL), 63% m/m, i (a) phospholipid (PL), 63% w/w, i
(b) resveratrol (1), 37% m/m. (b) resveratrol (1), 37% w/w.
Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu je polukruta homogena smjesa žutosmeđe boje i slabo intenzivnog karakterističnog „biljnog“ mirisa po fosfolipidima. The functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is a semi-solid homogeneous mixture of yellow-brown color and a slightly intense, characteristic "herbal" smell due to phospholipids.
Priprava formulacije funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Preparation of the formulation of the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
Postupak priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu sastoji se od slijedećih koraka: The procedure for preparing a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention consists of the following steps:
(i) otapanje fosfolipida (PL) u organskom otapalu (OS), miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta, uz maseni omjer fosfolipida (PL) prema organskom otapalu kako slijedi: (i) dissolution of phospholipids (PL) in organic solvent (OS), by stirring at temperatures from room temperature to reflux temperature for 10-60 minutes, with a mass ratio of phospholipids (PL) to organic solvent as follows:
PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m, PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m,
(ii) dodavanje resveratrola (1) u otopinu iz koraka (i) i njegovo otapanje, miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta; (ii) adding resveratrol (1) to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by stirring at room temperature to reflux temperature for 10-60 minutes;
(iii) uparavanje otopine iz koraka (ii) u vakuumu pri tlaku od 0,01-0,1 mbar, pri temperaturama od 10-25 °C, uz kontrolu sadržaja ostatnog organskog otapala iz koraka (i) ispod razine od 0,5% m/m te, (iii) evaporation of the solution from step (ii) in a vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the content of the remaining organic solvent from step (i) below the level of 0.5 % m/m and
(iv) opcionalno, dodatno sušenje uparnog ostatka u dubokom vakuumu pri tlaku od 0,001-0,01 mbar, pri temperaturama od 10-25 °C tijekom 30-120 minuta, (iv) optional, additional drying of the steam residue in a deep vacuum at a pressure of 0.001-0.01 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C for 30-120 minutes,
pri čemu nastaje funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu u obliku polukrute homogene smjese. whereby the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is created in the form of a semi-solid homogeneous mixture.
Kao organsko otapalo (OS) u koraku (i) može se koristiti: metil formijat (HCOOMe), metil acetat (MeOAc), etil acetat (EtOAc), propil acetat (n-PrOAc), izopropil acetat (i-PrOAc) ili smjese navedenih tvari. As organic solvent (OS) in step (i) can be used: methyl formate (HCOOMe), methyl acetate (MeOAc), ethyl acetate (EtOAc), propyl acetate (n-PrOAc), isopropyl acetate (i-PrOAc) or mixtures the mentioned substances.
Preferirano se kao organsko otapalo (OS) u koraku (i) koristi etil acetat uz maseni omjer: Ethyl acetate is preferably used as the organic solvent (OS) in step (i) with the mass ratio:
PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1,5, m/m, PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1.5, m/m,
pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C, dok se u koraku (ii), otapanje resveratrola (1) provodi pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C. at temperatures of 20-25 °C, while in step (ii), the dissolution of resveratrol (1) is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C.
Opcionalno se otapanje resveratrola (1) i eventualno cijeli postupak priprave kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu provodi u atmosferi inertnog plina poput dušika (N2) ili argona (Ar). Optionally, the dissolution of resveratrol (1) and possibly the entire process of preparing the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is carried out in an inert gas atmosphere such as nitrogen (N2) or argon (Ar).
Tipični primjeri postupka priprave kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu opisani su u Primjerima 1 i 2. Typical examples of the procedure for preparing the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention are described in Examples 1 and 2.
Upotreba formulacije funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Use of the formulation of the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
Kozmetički sastojak prema izumu koristi se kao funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak za pripravu različitih kozmetičkih formulacija na bazi resveratrola (1) u oblicima izabranim iz skupine koju čine: losioni otopine, losioni emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), losioni emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kreme emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), kreme emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), serumi otopine, serumi emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), serumi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kozmetičke maske, stikovi za njegu ispod pazuha, ruževi za njegu usana, gelovi otopine ili gelovi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W). The cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: solution lotions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion lotions, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion lotions ), water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, solution serums, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, sticks for underarm care, lip care lipsticks, solution gels or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.
Ogledni primjeri kozmetičkih proizvoda koji su dobiveni uz primjenu funkcionalnog kozmetičkog proizvoda prema izumu opisani su u Primjerima 3-5. Exemplary examples of cosmetic products obtained with the application of a functional cosmetic product according to the invention are described in Examples 3-5.
Obzirom na spektar biološkog djelovanja, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu koristi se kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak (ACI) koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. Considering the spectrum of biological action, the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient (ACI) that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, anti-wrinkle agent, anti-wrinkle agent, stretch mark treatment agent, tightening agent and skin rejuvenation and as a means of improving the barrier function of the skin.
Primjeri izvođenja izuma Examples of embodiments of the invention
Opće napomene General notes
Svi kvantitativni sastavi izraženi su u postotcima masenog udjela (% m/m) pojedinog sastojka u određenoj formulaciji. Termin “sobna temperature” (r.t.) odnosi se na temperaturni interval od 20-25 °C. Brzina miješanja izražena je u broju okretaja miješajućeg elementa u minuti (o/min). Svi postupci priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu te ogledne recepture kozmetičkih proizvoda na njegovoj bazi provedeni su na skali od 100 g. All quantitative compositions are expressed in percentages of the mass fraction (% m/m) of an individual ingredient in a specific formulation. The term "room temperature" (r.t.) refers to the temperature interval of 20-25 °C. The mixing speed is expressed in the number of revolutions of the mixing element per minute (rpm). All procedures for the preparation of the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention and sample recipes of cosmetic products based on it were carried out on a scale of 100 g.
Primjer 1. Priprava funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Example 1. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
[image] [image]
Postupak: Procedure:
(1) Faza A miješana je pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta pri čemu je nastala bistra otopina; (1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes resulting in a clear solution;
(2) Zatim je B dodan u otopinu iz koraka (1) i miješano pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 15 minuta do nastanka bistre otopine; (2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was formed;
(3) Potom je otopina iz koraka (2) uparena na rotacijskom uparivaču pri 20-25 °C uz vakuum do suha; maseni udio etil acetata je kontroliran i uparavanjem spušten ispod 0,5% m/m; (3) The solution from step (2) was then evaporated to dryness on a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum; the mass fraction of ethyl acetate was controlled and lowered below 0.5% m/m by evaporation;
(4) Opcionalno se može provesti dodatno dosušivanje rezidualnog etil acetata iz gotova produkta u dubokom vakuumu pri podtlaku uljne pumpe od 0,001-0,01 mbar. (4) Optionally, additional drying of the residual ethyl acetate from the finished product can be carried out in a deep vacuum at an oil pump vacuum of 0.001-0.01 mbar.
Gotovi funkcionalni sastojak prema izumu imao je oblik polukrute homogene mase žutosmeđe boje. Analiza: 36,50-37,00% resveratrola (1). The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a semi-solid homogeneous mass of yellow-brown color. Analysis: 36.50-37.00% resveratrol (1).
aBergaSom Soy 90 tvrtke Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Njemačka. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99,8%; produkt tvrtke Sigma-Aldrich, SAD. c Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; produkt tvrtke Symrise AG, Njemačka. aBergaSom Soy 90 from Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%; product of Sigma-Aldrich, USA. c Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; product of Symrise AG, Germany.
Primjer 2. Priprava funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Example 2. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
[image] [image]
Postupak: Procedure:
(1) Faza A miješana je pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta pri čemu je nastala bistra otopina; (1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes resulting in a clear solution;
(2) Zatim je B dodan u otopinu iz koraka (1) i miješano pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 15 minuta do nastanka bistre otopine; (2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was formed;
(3) Potom je otopina iz koraka (2) uparena na rotacijskom uparivaču pri 20-25 °C uz vakuum do suha; maseni udio etil acetata je kontroliran i uparavanjem spušten ispod 0,5% m/m. (3) The solution from step (2) was then evaporated to dryness on a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum; the mass fraction of ethyl acetate was controlled and lowered below 0.5% m/m by evaporation.
Gotovi funkcionalni sastojak prema izumu imao je oblik polukrute homogene mase žutosmeđe boje. Analiza: 24,50-25,00% resveratrola (1). The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a semi-solid homogeneous mass of yellow-brown color. Analysis: 24.50-25.00% resveratrol (1).
a BergaSom Soy 90 tvrtke Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Njemačka. and BergaSom Soy 90 from Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany.
b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99,8%; produkt tvrtke Sigma-Aldrich, SAD. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%; product of Sigma-Aldrich, USA.
c Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; produkt tvrtke Symrise AG, Njemačka. c Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; product of Symrise AG, Germany.
Primjer 3. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku seruma za kožu sklonu aknama s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 3. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of a serum for acne-prone skin with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention
[image] [image]
Postupak: Procedure:
(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.
(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C tijekom 30 minuta uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min. (3) Cool to 50 °C for 30 minutes while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm.
(4) Zasebno odvagati C i ostaviti da bubri na tamnom mjestu pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta. Potom homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 5 minuta. (4) Separately weigh C and leave to swell in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes.
(5) Dodati C u A+B pri 50 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (5) Add C to A+B at 50 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(6) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (6) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.
(7) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s D uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (7) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with D stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je tekuća emulzija, boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja; miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,167-0,204% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion, ivory in color and shiny; the smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.167-0.204% resveratrol (1).
a Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, produkt tvrtke Activon, Koreja; c Niacinamide PC, produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; d D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; e Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; f Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; g Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; h Produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; i Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; m Produkt iz Primjera 1; n Produkt tvrtke Jungbunzlauer, Švicarska, otopljen u vodi prije priprave. and Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, product of the Activon company, Korea; c Niacinamide PC, product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; d D-Panthenol Care, product of the company BASF, Germany; e Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; f Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; g Product of SEPPIC SA, France; h Product of the company BASF, Germany; and Product of the company IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; k Product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; m Product from Example 1; n Product of the company Jungbunzlauer, Switzerland, dissolved in water before preparation.
Primjer 4. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku antioksidativnog seruma za lice s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 4. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an antioxidant serum for the face with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention
[image] [image]
Postupak: Procedure:
(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.
(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C tijekom 30 minuta uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min. (3) Cool to 50 °C for 30 minutes while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm.
(4) Zasebno odvagati C i ostaviti da bubri na tamnom mjestu pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta. Potom homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 5 minuta. (4) Separately weigh C and leave to swell in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes.
(5) Dodati C u A+B pri 50 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (5) Add C to A+B at 50 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(6) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (6) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.
(7) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s D uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (7) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with D stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je tekuća emulzija, boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja; miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,167-0,204% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion, ivory in color and shiny; the smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.167-0.204% resveratrol (1).
a Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, produkt tvrtke Activon, Koreja; c D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; d Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; f Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; f Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; g Produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; h Produkt tvrtke Henry Lamotte, Njemačka; i Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; m Produkt iz Primjera 1. and Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, product of the Activon company, Korea; c D-Panthenol Care, product of the company BASF, Germany; d Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; f Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; f Product of SEPPIC SA, France; g Product of the company BASF, Germany; h Product of the company Henry Lamotte, Germany; and Product of the company IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; k Product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; m Product from Example 1.
Primjer 5. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku kreme protiv starenja (engl. anti-age) s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 5. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an anti-aging cream with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention
[image] [image]
Postupak: Procedure:
(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.
(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C tijekom 30 minuta uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min. (3) Cool to 50 °C for 30 minutes while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm.
(4) Zasebno odvagati C i ostaviti da bubri na tamnom mjestu pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta. Potom homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 5 minuta. (4) Separately weigh C and leave to swell in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes.
(5) Dodati C u A+B pri 50 °C. Zatim dodati D u A+B+C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (5) Add C to A+B at 50 °C. Then add D to A+B+C and homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(6) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (6) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.
(7) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s E uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (7) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with E stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je polukruta emulzija, boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja; miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,167-0,204% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is a semi-solid emulsion, ivory in color and shiny; the smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.167-0.204% resveratrol (1).
a Ph.Eur.10; b Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka;c Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka;d D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; e Produkt tvrtke BASF AG, Njemačka; f Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; g Produkt tvrtke Henry Lamotte, Njemačka; h Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; i Produkt tvrtke Givaudan, Švicarska; j Blanova Active Sodium Hyaluronate 8.000-50.000 Da, produkt tvrtke DeWold Chemical, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; l Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; m Bioxan E 1300 IU, BTSA, Španjolska; n Produkt iz Primjera 1. and Ph.Eur.10; b Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; c Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; d D-Panthenol Care, product of BASF Company, Germany; e Product of BASF AG, Germany; f Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; g Product of the company Henry Lamotte, Germany; h Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; and Product of Givaudan, Switzerland; j Blanova Active Sodium Hyaluronate 8,000-50,000 Yes, product of DeWold Chemical, USA; k Product of SEPPIC SA, France; l Product of IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; m Bioxan E 1300 IU, BTSA, Spain; n Product from Example 1.
Industrijska primjenjivost Industrial applicability
Predmetni izum koristi se za proizvodnju funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka koji nalazi primjenu u kozmetičkoj industriji za proizvodnju različitih vrsta kozmetičkih proizvoda. Zbog toga je industrijska primjenjivost ovog izuma očigledna. The subject invention is used for the production of a functional cosmetic ingredient that is used in the cosmetic industry for the production of various types of cosmetic products. Therefore, the industrial applicability of this invention is obvious.
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