HRP20220570A1 - Formulation of resveratrol-based functional cosmetic ingredient, procedure for its preparation and usage - Google Patents

Formulation of resveratrol-based functional cosmetic ingredient, procedure for its preparation and usage Download PDF

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HRP20220570A1
HRP20220570A1 HRP20220570AA HRP20220570A HRP20220570A1 HR P20220570 A1 HRP20220570 A1 HR P20220570A1 HR P20220570A A HRP20220570A A HR P20220570AA HR P20220570 A HRP20220570 A HR P20220570A HR P20220570 A1 HRP20220570 A1 HR P20220570A1
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resveratrol
cosmetic ingredient
skin
agent
product
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HRP20220570AA
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Mirta Mikulecky
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PROTEKO d.o.o.
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Priority to PCT/EP2023/061436 priority patent/WO2023213754A1/en
Publication of HRP20220570A1 publication Critical patent/HRP20220570A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

<IMAGE NAME="20220570_01" TYPE="JPG" CENTER=TRUE/><BR/>Izum otkriva funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak temeljen na liposomalnom resveratrolu (<B>1</B>) u bazi fosfolipida (PL) poput sojinog lecitina a koji je homogeniziran u vodenoj otopini hidrokoloida ksantanske gume (XG). Nadalje, izum otkriva postupak priprave predmetnog kozmetičkog sastojka putem otapanja rečenih fosfolipida i resveratrola (<B>1</B>) u organskom otapalu poput etil acetata te uparavanje organskog otapala u vakuumu, uz nastanak liposomalnog resveratrola koji se homogenizira u otopini XG uz dodatak prikladnih pomoćnih tvari poput konzervansa i antioksidansa. Formulacija prema izumu koristi se kao gotovi kozmetički proizvod za direktnu primjenu na koži ili kao sirovina za proizvodnju različitih kozmetičkih proizvoda na bazi resveratrola jer omogućava lako inkorporiranje u različite tipove formulacija povećavajući njegovu topljivost i stabilnost. Produkt prema izumu se koristi kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno i depigmentacijsko sredstvo, za prevenciju nastanka i ublažavanje bora, za tretman strija, za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, te za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože.<IMAGE NAME="20220570_01" TYPE="JPG" CENTER=TRUE/><BR/>The invention discloses a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in a phospholipid (PL) base such as soy lecithin, which is homogenised in an aqueous hydrocolloid solution xanthan gum (XG). Furthermore, the invention discloses the preparation process of the related cosmetic ingredient by dissolving said phospholipids and resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, with the formation of liposomal resveratrol which is homogenised in the XG solution with the addition of suitable auxiliary substances such as preservatives and antioxidants. The formulation according to the invention is used as a finished cosmetic product for direct application on the skin or as raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility and stability. The product according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and mitigation of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and for improving the barrier function of the skin.<IMAGE NAME="20220570_01" TYPE="JPG" CENTER=TRUE/><BR/>The invention discloses a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in a phospholipid (PL) base such as soy lecithin and which is homogenized in an aqueous solution of xanthan gum hydrocolloid (XG). Furthermore, the invention discloses a procedure for the preparation of the cosmetic ingredient in question by dissolving said phospholipids and resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, with the formation of liposomal resveratrol which is homogenized in the XG solution with the addition of suitable auxiliary substances such as preservatives and antioxidants. The formulation according to the invention is used as a finished cosmetic product for direct application on the skin or as a raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility and stability. The product according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, to prevent and reduce wrinkles, to treat stretch marks, to tighten and rejuvenate the skin, and to improve the barrier function of the skin.<IMAGE NAME="20220570_01" TYPE="JPG" CENTER=TRUE/><BR/>The invention discloses a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in a phospholipid (PL) base such as soy lecithin, which is homogenised in an aqueous hydrocolloid solution xanthan gum (XG). Furthermore, the invention discloses the preparation process of the related cosmetic ingredient by dissolving said phospholipids and resveratrol (<B>1</B>) in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate and evaporating the organic solvent in a vacuum, with the formation of liposomal resveratrol which is homogenised in the XG solution with the addition of suitable auxiliary substances such as preservatives and antioxidants. The formulation according to the invention is used as a finished cosmetic product for direct application on the skin or as raw material for the production of various cosmetic products based on resveratrol because it enables easy incorporation into different types of formulations, increasing its solubility and stability. The product according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and mitigation of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and for improving the barrier function of the skin.

Description

Područje tehnike The field of technology

Predmetni izum odnosi se na funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak na bazi liposomalnog resveratrola (1) stabiliziranog hidrokoloidnim sustavom na bazi ksantanske gume (XG), na postupak njegove priprave i primjenu. The present invention relates to a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1) stabilized by a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG), its preparation process and application.

[image] [image]

Tehnički problem Technical problem

Tehnički problem odnosi se na tehnologiju ugradnju poznate aktivne kozmetičke supstancije resveratrola (1) u različite kozmetičke proizvode. Resveratrol (1) je slabo topljiv u vodi te je osjetljiv na oksidaciju kad se jednom otopi u vodenoj fazi koja je relativno bogatija otopljenim kisikom. The technical problem relates to the technology of incorporating the well-known active cosmetic substance resveratrol (1) into various cosmetic products. Resveratrol (1) is poorly soluble in water and is susceptible to oxidation once dissolved in the aqueous phase, which is relatively richer in dissolved oxygen.

Predmetni izum rješava rečeni tehnički problem uz primjenu složenog kozmetičkog sastojka koji sadrži enkapsulirani resveratrol u liposomima na bazi lecitina ili njegovih derivata, a koji je stabiliziran u hidrokoloidnom sustavu na bazi ksantanske gume (XG). The subject invention solves said technical problem with the application of a complex cosmetic ingredient containing encapsulated resveratrol in liposomes based on lecithin or its derivatives, which is stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG).

Primjena složenog sastojka prema izumu omogućava jednostavnu ugradnju resveratrola u različite kozmetičke formulacije čime se pojednostavljuje tehnologija njihove proizvodnje i dobivaju stabilni proizvodi. The use of the complex ingredient according to the invention enables simple incorporation of resveratrol into various cosmetic formulations, which simplifies the technology of their production and obtains stable products.

Prethodno stanje tehnike Prior art

Resveratrol (1), 3,5,4'-trihidroksi-trans-stilben ili 5-[(E)-2-(4-hidroksifenil)eten-1-il]benzen-1,3-diol je poznati prirodni spoj široko zastupljen u biljnom svijetu. Koristi se kao aktivna nutritivna i kozmetička supstancija. Najbogatiji izvor prirodnog resveratrola je korijen biljke japanski dvornik (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.) koja se uglavnom uzgaja u Kini i Japanu. Resveratrol pokazuje preventivno djelovanje na nastanak raka kože, antikancerogeno i antioksidativno djelovanje, štiti kožu od oštećenja uzrokovanih UV zrakama, zatim protuupalno i depigmentacijsko djelovanje, sprječava nastanak i liječi akne, ubrzava zacjeljivanje rana te pomaže kod psorijaze, ekcema i drugih eksfolijativnih poremećaja kože; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 1: Resveratrol (1), 3,5,4'-trihydroxy-trans-stilbene or 5-[(E)-2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)ethen-1-yl]benzene-1,3-diol is a known natural compound widely represented in the plant world. It is used as an active nutritional and cosmetic substance. The richest source of natural resveratrol is the root of the Japanese gorse plant (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc.), which is mainly grown in China and Japan. Resveratrol shows a preventive effect on the occurrence of skin cancer, anti-cancer and antioxidant effect, protects the skin from damage caused by UV rays, then anti-inflammatory and depigmentation effect, prevents the occurrence and cures acne, accelerates wound healing and helps with psoriasis, eczema and other exfoliative skin disorders; see literature reference 1:

1) R. R. Watson, S. Zibadi (Editori): Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in dermatology; Chapter 18: D. K. Das, H. Vasanthi: Resveratrol in Dermal Health, 177-187; Humana Press (2013). 1) R.R. Watson, S. Zibadi (Editors): Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in dermatology; Chapter 18: D. K. Das, H. Vasanthi: Resveratrol in Dermal Health, 177-187; Humana Press (2013).

Ksantanska guma (XG) je prirodni polisaharid koji se dobiva kao fermentacijski produkt iz bakterija Xanthomonas campestris [(Pammel 1895) Dowson 1939]: Xanthan gum (XG) is a natural polysaccharide obtained as a fermentation product from the bacteria Xanthomonas campestris [(Pammel 1895) Dowson 1939]:

[image] [image]

Koristi se kao vrijedan hidrokoloid u prehrambenoj industriji, kao dodatak hrani E415 u kategoriji uguščivača te kao uguščivač u kozmetičkoj, farmaceutskoj i kemijskoj industriji; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 2: It is used as a valuable hydrocolloid in the food industry, as an E415 food additive in the thickener category, and as a thickener in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and chemical industries; see literature reference 2:

2) N. Z. Nordin, A. R. Rashidi, D. J. Dailin, R. A. Malek, N. I. W. Azelee, N. H. A. Manas, S. Selvamani, D. N. A. Zaidel, R. A. A. Alsaheb, D. Sukmawati, H. El Enshasy: Xanthan Biopolymer in Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications: Critical Review, Biosci. Res. 17 (2020) 205-220. 2) N. Z. Nordin, A. R. Rashidi, D. J. Dailin, R. A. Malek, N. I. W. Azelee, N. H. A. Manas, S. Selvamani, D. N. A. Zaidel, R. A. A. Alsaheb, D. Sukmawati, H. El Enshasy: Xanthan Biopolymer in Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications: Critical Review, Biosci. Crisp. 17 (2020) 205-220.

Glavni tehnički problemi povezani s primjenom resveratrola (1) u kozmetičkim formulacijama su slaba topljivost u vodi i osjetljivost na oksidaciju u otopljenom stanju te time sklonost na oksidativni raspad. The main technical problems associated with the use of resveratrol (1) in cosmetic formulations are low solubility in water and sensitivity to oxidation in the dissolved state, and thus a tendency to oxidative decay.

U stanju tehnike su opisana određena rješenja za navedeni tehnički problem putem različitih metoda enkapsulacije resveratrola u različite čestice mikro- i nano-veličina koje povećavaju topljivost resveratrola i njegovu stabilnost prema procesu oksidacije. The state of the art describes certain solutions for the mentioned technical problem through different methods of resveratrol encapsulation into different micro- and nano-sized particles that increase the solubility of resveratrol and its stability according to the oxidation process.

Tako su primjerice Chen i Liao opisali nano-čestice resveratrola enkapsuliranog u lecitin. Njihov postupak uključuje miješanje otopine lecitina i otopine resveratrola uz nastanak otopine koja se potom dodaje u vodenu fazu, vjerojatno radi precipitacije nano-čestica. Potonje se podvrgavaju procesu pročišćavanja, pri čemu se dobivaju lecitinom enkapsulirane čestice resveratrola nano-dimenzija; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 3: For example, Chen and Liao described nano-particles of resveratrol encapsulated in lecithin. Their process involves mixing a lecithin solution and a resveratrol solution to form a solution that is then added to the aqueous phase, presumably to precipitate nanoparticles. The latter are subjected to a purification process, whereby lecithin-encapsulated resveratrol particles of nano-dimensions are obtained; see literature reference 3:

3) CN112773728A; W. Chen, W. Liao: Nano resveratrol-coated compound as well as preparation method and application thereof; nositelj: Sveučilište Jiangxi Normal Sci&Tech i Sveučilište Sun Yat Sen; Kina (CN); datum prioriteta: 31. 12. 2020. 3) CN112773728A; W. Chen, W. Liao: Nano resveratrol-coated compound as well as preparation method and application thereof; holder: Jiangxi Normal Sci&Tech University and Sun Yat Sen University; China (CN); priority date: 31 December 2020

Srodno tehničko rješenje otkriva patent Saar i suradnika koji opisuje metodu solubilizacije slabo vodotopljivih kozmetičkih aktivnih supstancija; vidjeti literaturnu referencu 4: A related technical solution is disclosed by the Saar et al. patent, which describes a method of solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic active substances; see literature reference 4:

4) US11207256B2; I. Saar, W. Brysch, J. von Wegerer: Method for solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic agents; nositelj: Athenion AG (CH); datum prioriteta: 30. 06. 2017. 4) US11207256B2; I. Saar, W. Brysch, J. von Wegerer: Method for solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic agents; holder: Athenion AG (CH); priority date: 06/30/2017

Njihov postupak temelji se na otapanje kozmetičkih aktivnih supstancija poput resveratrola (1) u složenom sustavu: Their procedure is based on dissolving cosmetic active substances such as resveratrol (1) in a complex system:

(i) najmanje jednog lecitinskog derivata iz klase fosfatidil kolina (PC), 20-80% m/m, (i) at least one lecithin derivative from the class of phosphatidyl choline (PC), 20-80% m/m,

(ii) trigliceridu srednje dužine lanca (MCT), 10-70% m/m, pri omjeru PC : MCT = 80 : 1 – 1,33 : 1 m/m, (ii) medium chain triglyceride (MCT), 10-70% m/m, with a ratio of PC : MCT = 80 : 1 – 1.33 : 1 m/m,

(iii) etanolu, 1-20% m/m, i (iii) ethanol, 1-20% m/m, i

(iv) oleinskoj kiselini, 0,5-10% m/m, (iv) oleic acid, 0.5-10% m/m,

pri 30-120 °C uz nastanak bistrog i stabilnog sustava značajno poboljšane topljivosti resveratrola u kozmetičkim proizvodima u koje s ugrađuje rečeni složeni kozmetički sastojak. Takva formulacija složenog kozmetičkog sastojka može dodatno sadržavati i ekscipijense iz drugih klasa uključujući i stabilizatore (uguščivače) kao što je ksantanska guma. at 30-120 °C with the formation of a clear and stable system of significantly improved solubility of resveratrol in cosmetic products in which said complex cosmetic ingredient is incorporated. Such a formulation of a complex cosmetic ingredient may additionally contain excipients from other classes, including stabilizers (thickeners) such as xanthan gum.

Predmetni izum rješava definirani tehnički problem na nov i inventivan način kako je to opisano u poglavlju Detaljni opis izuma. The subject invention solves the defined technical problem in a new and inventive way as described in the chapter Detailed description of the invention.

Bit izuma The essence of invention

Predmetni izum otkriva složeni funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak koji se sastoji od slijedećih sastojaka: The subject invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient consisting of the following ingredients:

(a) resveratrola (1), 0,50-2,50% m/m, (a) resveratrol (1), 0.50-2.50% m/m,

[image] [image]

(b) fosfolipida (PL) poput različitih lecitina ili njegovih derivata, 2,50-4,50% m/m, (b) phospholipids (PL) such as various lecithins or their derivatives, 2.50-4.50% m/m,

(c) ksantanske gume (XG), 0,05-1,00% m/m, (c) xanthan gum (XG), 0.05-1.00% m/m,

(d) konzervansa (PR), 0,10-2,00% m/m, (d) preservative (PR), 0.10-2.00% m/m,

(e) opcionalno, antioksidans (AO), 0,00-0,20% m/m, i (e) optional, antioxidant (AO), 0.00-0.20% w/w, i

(f) pročišćene vode, do 100% m/m formulacije, (f) purified water, up to 100% m/m formulation,

pri čemu sastojak (b) tvori liposomalne čestice u koje se smještaju molekule sastojaka (a) gdje se rečene liposomalne čestice dodatno stabiliziraju u hidrokoloidnom gelu ksantanske gume (XG). wherein the ingredient (b) forms liposomal particles in which the molecules of the ingredients (a) are placed, where said liposomal particles are additionally stabilized in the hydrocolloid gel of xanthan gum (XG).

Preferirano, funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu sadrži sastojke (a)-(c) u masenim udjelima kako slijedi: Preferably, the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention contains ingredients (a)-(c) in mass proportions as follows:

(a) resveratrol (1), 1,75-2,00% m/m, (a) resveratrol (1), 1.75-2.00% w/w,

(b) fosfolipid (PL), 3,00-3,25% m/m, i (b) phospholipid (PL), 3.00-3.25% w/w, i

(c) ksantanska guma (XG), 0,10-0,50% m/m. (c) xanthan gum (XG), 0.10-0.50% w/w.

Predmetni izum otkriva postupak priprave rečenog liposomalnog oblika resveratrola koji se bazira na otapanju fosfolipida (PL) u prikladnom organskom otapalu poput etila acetata (EtOAc), potom otapanju resveratrola (1) u tako pripremljenoj otopini te potom uparavanje organskog otapala u blagim uvjetima u vakuumu. Nakon toga, dobiveni liposomalni resveratrol (1) se dodatno stabilizira homogenizacijom u konzerviranoj vodenoj otopini hidrokoloida na bazi ksantanske gume (XG) pri čemu se dobiva formulacija prema izumu. The present invention discloses the preparation process of said liposomal form of resveratrol, which is based on dissolving phospholipids (PL) in a suitable organic solvent such as ethyl acetate (EtOAc), then dissolving resveratrol (1) in the thus prepared solution, and then evaporating the organic solvent under mild conditions in a vacuum. After that, the obtained liposomal resveratrol (1) is additionally stabilized by homogenization in a preserved aqueous solution of hydrocolloid based on xanthan gum (XG), whereby the formulation according to the invention is obtained.

Kozmetička formulacija prema izumu koristi se kao funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak za pripravu različitih kozmetičkih formulacija na bazi resveratrola (1) u oblicima izabranim iz skupine koju čine: losioni otopine, losioni emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), losioni emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kreme emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), kreme emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), serumi otopine, serumi emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), serumi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kozmetičke maske, stikovi za njegu ispod pazuha, ruževi za njegu usana, gelovi otopine ili gelovi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W). The cosmetic formulation according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion lotions, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion lotions ), water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, solution serums, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, sticks for underarm care, lip care lipsticks, solution gels or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.

Dodatno, formulacija prema izumu se koristi kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, sredstvo za njegu okoloočnog područja te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. In addition, the formulation according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, anti-wrinkle agent, anti-wrinkle agent, stretch mark treatment agent, skin tightening and rejuvenation agent, eye area care agent and as a means of improving the barrier function of the skin.

Također, formulacija prema izumu se koristi kao kozmetički proizvod, formulacijskog oblika seruma, za direktnu primjenu na koži koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. Also, the formulation according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application on the skin, which acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, wrinkle prevention agent, wrinkle softener, stretch mark treatment agent, tightening agent and skin rejuvenation and as a means of improving the barrier function of the skin.

Detaljni opis izuma Detailed description of the invention

Predmetni izum otkriva složeni funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak koji se sastoji od slijedećih sastojaka: The subject invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient consisting of the following ingredients:

(a) resveratrol (1), 0,50-2,50% m/m, (a) resveratrol (1), 0.50-2.50% w/w,

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(b) fosfolipid (PL), 2,50-4,50% m/m, (b) phospholipid (PL), 2.50-4.50% m/m,

(c) ksantanska guma (XG), 0,05-1,00% m/m, (c) xanthan gum (XG), 0.05-1.00% w/w,

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(d) konzervans (PR), 0,10-2,00% m/m, (d) preservative (PR), 0.10-2.00% m/m,

(e) opcionalno, antioksidans (AO), 0,00-0,20% m/m, i (e) optional, antioxidant (AO), 0.00-0.20% w/w, i

(f) pročišćena voda do 100% m/m formulacije, (f) purified water up to 100% m/m formulation,

pri čemu sastojak (b) tvori liposomalne čestice u koje se smještaju molekule sastojaka (a). Tako formirane liposomske čestice dodatno su stabilizirane u hidrokoloidnom sustavu na bazi ksantanske gume (XG). whereby the ingredient (b) forms liposomal particles in which the molecules of the ingredients (a) are placed. The liposomal particles formed in this way were additionally stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG).

Sastojak (b), fosfolipid (PL), koji se koristi u formulaciji prema izumu izabran je iz skupine koju čine: Ingredient (b), phospholipid (PL), used in the formulation according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of:

A. fosfatidil kolin (PC), fosfatidil inositol (PI), fosfatidil etanolamin (PE), fosfatidil serin (PS), A. phosphatidyl choline (PC), phosphatidyl inositol (PI), phosphatidyl ethanolamine (PE), phosphatidyl serine (PS),

B. hidrogenirani fosfatidil kolin (HPC), hidrogenirani fosfatidil inositol (HPI), hidrogenirani fosfatidil etanolamin (HPE), hidrogenirani fosfatidil serin (HPS), B. hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline (HPC), hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol (HPI), hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine (HPE), hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine (HPS),

C. lecitin <L> izoliran iz suncokreta (Helianthus annuus L.), soje (Glycine max L.), repice (Brasica napus L.), kanole (Brassica rapa L.), pamuka (Gossypium spp L.) ili kokošjih (Gallus gallus domesticus) jaja, C. lecithin <L> isolated from sunflower (Helianthus annuus L.), soybean (Glycine max L.), canola (Brasica napus L.), canola (Brassica rapa L.), cotton (Gossypium spp L.) or chicken ( Gallus gallus domesticus) eggs,

D. hidrogenirani lecitin (HGL) dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolinog ili pamukova lecitina ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, D. hydrogenated lecithin (HGL) obtained from sunflower, soybean, rapeseed, canola or cotton lecithin or lecithin from chicken eggs,

E. hidrolizirani lecitin (HL) dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolina ili pamukova lecitina ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, E. hydrolyzed lecithin (HL) obtained from sunflower, soybean, rapeseed, cannolin or cotton lecithin or lecithin from chicken eggs,

ili smjese navedenih tvari. or mixtures of these substances.

Kao sastojak (c), ksantanska guma (XG), mogu se koristiti svi komercijalno dostupni produkti koji sadrže ksantansku gumu uz uvjet da su prehrambene, kozmetičke ili farmaceutske razine čistoće. As ingredient (c), xanthan gum (XG), all commercially available products containing xanthan gum can be used provided they are of food, cosmetic or pharmaceutical grade purity.

Sastojak (d), konzervans (PR), koji se koristi u formulaciji prema izumu izabran je iz skupine koju čine: fenoksietanol, kaprilil glikol, benzil alkohol, dehidrooctena kiselina, benzojeva kiselina, sorbinska kiselina, etil heksilglicerol ili smjese navedenih tvari. Ingredient (d), preservative (PR), used in the formulation according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of: phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, ethyl hexylglycerol or mixtures of the above substances.

Opcionalni sastojak (e), antioksidans (AO), koji se koristi u formulaciji iz predmetnog izuma izabran je iz skupine koju čine: askorbinska kiselina, tokoferoli poput α-tokoferola, propil galat, butilirani hidroksianisol (BHA), butilirani hidroksitoluen (BHT), tercijarni butilhidrokinon (TBHQ) ili smjese navedenih tvari. Optional ingredient (e), antioxidant (AO), used in the formulation of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as α-tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), tertiary butylhydroquinone (TBHQ) or mixtures of these substances.

U preferiranoj opciji realizacije predmetnog izuma funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak sadrži sastojke (a)-(c) u masenim udjelima kako slijedi: In the preferred embodiment of the present invention, the functional cosmetic ingredient contains the ingredients (a)-(c) in the mass proportions as follows:

(a) resveratrol (1), 1,75-2,00% m/m, (a) resveratrol (1), 1.75-2.00% w/w,

(b) fosfolipid (PL), 3,00-3,25% m/m, i (b) phospholipid (PL), 3.00-3.25% w/w, i

(c) ksantanska guma (XG), 0,10-0,50% m/m. (c) xanthan gum (XG), 0.10-0.50% w/w.

Priprava formulacije prema izumu Preparation of the formulation according to the invention

Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema izumu pripravlja se prema proizvodnom postupku koji uključuje slijedeće korake: The functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is prepared according to a manufacturing process that includes the following steps:

(i) otapanje fosfolipida (PL) u organskom otapalu (OS), miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta, uz maseni omjer fosfolipida (PL) prema organskom otapalu kako slijedi: (i) dissolution of phospholipids (PL) in organic solvent (OS), by stirring at temperatures from room temperature to reflux temperature for 10-60 minutes, with a mass ratio of phospholipids (PL) to organic solvent as follows:

PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m, PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m,

(ii) dodavanje resveratrola (1) u otopinu iz koraka (i) i njegovo otapanje, miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta; (ii) adding resveratrol (1) to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by stirring at room temperature to reflux temperature for 10-60 minutes;

(iii) uparavanje otopine iz koraka (ii) u vakuumu pri tlaku od 0,01-0,1 mbar, pri temperaturama od 10-25 °C, uz kontrolu sadržaja ostatnog organskog otapala iz koraka (i) ispod razine od 0,5% m/m, (iii) evaporation of the solution from step (ii) in a vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the content of the remaining organic solvent from step (i) below the level of 0.5 % m/m,

(iv) zasebno otapanje ksantanske gume (XG), konzervansa i, opcionalno, antioksidansa u predviđenoj količini vode, miješanjem pri temperaturama od 20-50 °C tijekom 15-60 minuta; (iv) separately dissolving xanthan gum (XG), preservatives and, optionally, antioxidants in the prescribed amount of water, by mixing at temperatures of 20-50 °C for 15-60 minutes;

(v) dodavanje uparnog ostatka iz koraka (iii) u otopinu iz koraka (iv) i bubrenje dobivene smjese pri temperaturama 10-30 °C tijekom 30-120 minuta, i (v) adding the vapor residue from step (iii) to the solution from step (iv) and swelling the resulting mixture at temperatures of 10-30 °C for 30-120 minutes, and

(vi) homogenizacija dobivene smjese pri 10.000-20.000 o/min tijekom 5-30 minuta; (vi) homogenization of the resulting mixture at 10,000-20,000 rpm for 5-30 minutes;

pri čemu nastaje formulacija prema izumu u obliku homogene mutne tekućine. whereby the formulation according to the invention is formed in the form of a homogeneous cloudy liquid.

Pri tome je organsko otapalo (OS) u koraku (i) izabrano iz skupine koju čine: metil formijat (HCOOMe), metil acetat (MeOAc), etil acetat (EtOAc), propil acetat (n-PrOAc), izopropil acetat (i-PrOAc) ili smjese navedenih otapala. The organic solvent (OS) in step (i) was selected from the group consisting of: methyl formate (HCOOMe), methyl acetate (MeOAc), ethyl acetate (EtOAc), propyl acetate (n-PrOAc), isopropyl acetate (i- PrOAc) or mixtures of said solvents.

Preferirano se u koraku (i) kao organsko otapalo (OS) za otapanje fosfolipida (PL) koristi etil acetat uz maseni omjer: Ethyl acetate is preferably used in step (i) as an organic solvent (OS) for dissolving phospholipids (PL) with the mass ratio:

PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1,5, m/m, PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1.5, m/m,

pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C, dok se u koraku (ii), otapanje resveratrola (1) provodi pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C. at temperatures of 20-25 °C, while in step (ii), the dissolution of resveratrol (1) is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C.

Tipični primjeri postupka priprave kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu opisani su u Primjerima 1 i 2. Typical examples of the procedure for preparing the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention are described in Examples 1 and 2.

Upotreba formulacije prema izumu Use of the formulation according to the invention

Kozmetička formulacija prema izumu koristi se kao funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak za pripravu različitih kozmetičkih formulacija na bazi resveratrola (1) u oblicima izabranim iz skupine koju čine: losioni otopine, losioni emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), losioni emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kreme emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), kreme emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), serumi otopine, serumi emulzije tipa voda u ulju (W-O), serumi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W), kozmetičke maske, stikovi za njegu ispod pazuha, ruževi za njegu usana, gelovi otopine ili gelovi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi (O-W). The cosmetic formulation according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion lotions, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion lotions ), water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, solution serums, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, sticks for underarm care, lip care lipsticks, solution gels or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.

Dodatno, formulacija prema izumu se koristi kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, sredstvo za njegu okoloočnog područja, te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. In addition, the formulation according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, anti-wrinkle agent, anti-wrinkle agent, stretch mark treatment agent, skin tightening and rejuvenation agent, eye area care agent , and as a means of improving the barrier function of the skin.

Ogledni primjeri kozmetičkih proizvoda koji su dobiveni uz primjenu funkcionalnog kozmetičkog proizvoda prema izumu opisani su u Primjerima 3-5. Exemplary examples of cosmetic products obtained with the application of a functional cosmetic product according to the invention are described in Examples 3-5.

Alternativno, obzirom na poznati spektar korisnih kozmetičkih i farmakoloških topikalnih učinaka resveratrola (1), formulacija prema izumu se koristi kao kozmetički proizvod, formulacijskog oblika seruma, za direktnu primjenu na koži koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože. Alternatively, given the known spectrum of useful cosmetic and pharmacological topical effects of resveratrol (1), the formulation according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum, for direct application on the skin, which acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, and anti-aging agent wrinkle, wrinkle softener, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means to improve the skin's barrier function.

Primjeri izvođenja izuma Examples of embodiments of the invention

Opće napomene General notes

Svi kvantitativni sastavi izraženi su u postotcima masenog udjela (% m/m) pojedinog sastojka u određenoj formulaciji. Termin “sobna temperature” (r.t.) odnosi se na temperaturni interval od 20-25 °C. Brzina miješanja izražena je u broju okretaja miješajućeg elementa u minuti (o/min). Svi postupci priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu te ogledne recepture kozmetičkih proizvoda na njegovoj bazi provedeni su na skali od 100 g. All quantitative compositions are expressed in percentages of the mass fraction (% m/m) of an individual ingredient in a specific formulation. The term "room temperature" (r.t.) refers to the temperature interval of 20-25 °C. The mixing speed is expressed in the number of revolutions of the mixing element per minute (rpm). All procedures for the preparation of the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention and sample recipes of cosmetic products based on it were carried out on a scale of 100 g.

Primjer 1. Priprava funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Example 1. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention

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Postupak: Procedure:

(1) Faza A miješana je pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta pri čemu je nastala bistra otopina; (1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes resulting in a clear solution;

(2) Zatim je B dodan u otopinu iz koraka (1) i miješano pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 15 minuta do nastanka bistre otopine; (2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was formed;

(3) Potom je otopina iz koraka (2) uparena na rotacijskom uparivaču pri 20-25 °C uz vakuum do suha; maseni udio etil acetata je kontroliran i uparavanjem spušten ispod 0,5% m/m; (3) The solution from step (2) was then evaporated to dryness on a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum; the mass fraction of ethyl acetate was controlled and lowered below 0.5% m/m by evaporation;

(4) Opcionalno se može provesti dodatno dosušivanje rezidualnog etil acetata iz gotova produkta u dubokom vakuumu pri podtlaku uljne pumpe od 0,001-0,01 mbar. (4) Optionally, additional drying of the residual ethyl acetate from the finished product can be carried out in a deep vacuum at an oil pump vacuum of 0.001-0.01 mbar.

(5) Potom je uparnom ostatku dodana faza C i ostavljena bubriti pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta. (5) Phase C was then added to the vapor residue and allowed to bubble at room temperature for 30 minutes.

(6) Potom je smjesa homogenizirana miješanjem pri 15.000 o/min tijekom 10 minuta. (6) The mixture was then homogenized by stirring at 15,000 rpm for 10 minutes.

Gotovi funkcionalni sastojak prema izumu imao je oblik homogene neprozirne tekućine, mliječnožute boje. Miris je blago intenzivan, karakterističan. pH vrijednost = 6,0-7,5. Analiza: 0,90-1,10% resveratrola (1). The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous opaque liquid, milky yellow in color. The smell is slightly intense, characteristic. pH value = 6.0-7.5. Analysis: 0.90-1.10% resveratrol (1).

a BergaSom Soy 90 tvrtke Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Njemačka. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99,8%; produkt tvrtke Sigma-Aldrich, SAD; c Za otapanje lecitina i resveratrola korišten je etil acetata u masenom omjeru lecitin : EtOAc = 1 : 1,5 m/m; d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; produkt tvrtke Symrise AG, Njemačka. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; f Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka. and BergaSom Soy 90 from Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%; product of Sigma-Aldrich, USA; c To dissolve lecithin and resveratrol, ethyl acetate was used in the mass ratio lecithin : EtOAc = 1 : 1.5 m/m; d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; product of Symrise AG, Germany. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; f Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany.

Primjer 2. Priprava funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema izumu Example 2. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention

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Postupak: Procedure:

(1) Faza A miješana je pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta pri čemu je nastala bistra otopina; (1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes resulting in a clear solution;

(2) Zatim je B dodan u otopinu iz koraka (1) i miješano pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 15 minuta do nastanka bistre otopine; (2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was formed;

(3) Potom je otopina iz koraka (2) uparena na rotacijskom uparivaču pri 20-25 °C uz vakuum do suha; maseni udio etil acetata je kontroliran i uparavanjem spušten ispod 0,5% m/m; (3) The solution from step (2) was then evaporated to dryness on a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum; the mass fraction of ethyl acetate was controlled and lowered below 0.5% m/m by evaporation;

(4) Potom je uparnom ostatku dodana faza C i ostavljena bubriti pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 120 minuta. (4) Phase C was then added to the vapor residue and allowed to bubble at room temperature for 120 minutes.

(5) Potom je smjesa homogenizirana miješanjem pri 15.000 o/min tijekom 30 minuta. (5) The mixture was then homogenized by stirring at 15,000 rpm for 30 minutes.

Gotovi funkcionalni sastojak prema izumu imao je oblik homogene neprozirne viskozne tekućine, mliječnožute boje. Miris je blago intenzivan, karakterističan. pH vrijednost = 6,0-7,5. Analiza: 1,80-2,20% resveratrola (1). The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous opaque viscous liquid, milky yellow in color. The smell is slightly intense, characteristic. pH value = 6.0-7.5. Analysis: 1.80-2.20% resveratrol (1).

a BergaSom Soy 90 tvrtke Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Njemačka. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99,8%; produkt tvrtke Sigma-Aldrich, SAD; c Za otapanje lecitina i resveratrola korišten je etil acetata u masenom omjeru lecitin : EtOAc = 1 : 1,5 m/m; d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; produkt tvrtke Symrise AG, Njemačka. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; f Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka. and BergaSom Soy 90 from Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%; product of Sigma-Aldrich, USA; c To dissolve lecithin and resveratrol, ethyl acetate was used in the mass ratio lecithin : EtOAc = 1 : 1.5 m/m; d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%; product of Symrise AG, Germany. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; f Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany.

Primjer 3. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku kreme protiv starenja (engl. anti-age) s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 3. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an anti-aging cream with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention

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Postupak: Procedure:

(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.

(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.

(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C tijekom 30 minuta uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min. (3) Cool to 50 °C for 30 minutes while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm.

(4) Zasebno odvagati C i ostaviti da bubri na tamnom mjestu pri sobnoj temperaturi tijekom 30 minuta. Potom homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 5 minuta. (4) Separately weigh C and leave to swell in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes.

(5) Dodati C u A+B pri 50 °C. Zatim dodati D u A+B+C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (5) Add C to A+B at 50 °C. Then add D to A+B+C and homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.

(6) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (6) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.

(7) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s E uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (7) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with E stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.

Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je polukruta emulzija boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja. Miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,09-0,11% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is a semi-solid emulsion of ivory color with a glossy shine. The smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.09-0.11% resveratrol (1).

a Ph.Eur.10; b Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka;c Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka;d D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF AG, Njemačka; e Produkt tvrtke BASF AG, Njemačka; f Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; g Produkt tvrtke Henry Lamotte, Njemačka; h Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; i Produkt tvrtke Givaudan, Švicarska; j Blanova Active Sodium Hyaluronate 8.000-50.000 Da, produkt tvrtke DeWold Chemical, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; l Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; m Bioxan E 1300 IU, produkt tvrtke BTSA, Španjolska; n Produkt iz Primjera 1. and Ph.Eur.10; b Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; c Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; d D-Panthenol Care, product of BASF AG, Germany; e Product of BASF AG, Germany; f Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; g Product of the company Henry Lamotte, Germany; h Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; and Product of Givaudan, Switzerland; j Blanova Active Sodium Hyaluronate 8,000-50,000 Yes, product of DeWold Chemical, USA; k Product of SEPPIC SA, France; l Product of IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; m Bioxan E 1300 IU, product of the company BTSA, Spain; n Product from Example 1.

Primjer 4. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku seruma za kožu sklonu aknama s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 4. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of a serum for acne-prone skin with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention

[image] [image]

Postupak: Procedure:

(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.

(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.

(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom 30 minuta. (3) Cool to 50 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for 30 minutes.

(4) Zasebno odvagati C i dodati u A+B pri 50 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (4) Separately weigh C and add to A+B at 50 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.

(5) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (5) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.

(6) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s D uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (6) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with D stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.

Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je tekuća emulzija boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja. Miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,18-0,22% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is an ivory-colored liquid emulsion with a glossy sheen. The smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.18-0.22% resveratrol (1).

a Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, produkt tvrtke Activon, Koreja; c Niacinamide PC, produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; d D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; e Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; f Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; g Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; h Produkt tvrtke BASF, Njemačka; i Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; m Produkt iz Primjera 2; n Produkt tvrtke Jungbunzlauer, Švicarska, otopljen u vodi prije priprave. and Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, product of the Activon company, Korea; c Niacinamide PC, product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; d D-Panthenol Care, product of the company BASF, Germany; e Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; f Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; g Product of SEPPIC SA, France; h Product of the company BASF, Germany; and Product of the company IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; k Product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; m Product from Example 2; n Product of the company Jungbunzlauer, Switzerland, dissolved in water before preparation.

Primjer 5. Priprava kozmetičkog proizvoda u obliku antioksidativnog seruma za lice s resveratrolom (1) uz primjenu funkcionalnog sastojka prema izumu Example 5. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an antioxidant serum for the face with resveratrol (1) with the use of a functional ingredient according to the invention

[image] [image]

Postupak: Procedure:

(1) Zagrijati prethodno izvagane faze A i B do 80 °C. (1) Heat previously weighed phases A and B to 80 °C.

(2) Dodavati B u A pri 80 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 2 minute. (2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.

(3) Ohladiti do 50 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom 30 minuta. (3) Cool to 50 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for 30 minutes.

(4) Zasebno odvagati C i dodati u A+B pri 50 °C i homogenizirati miješanjem pri 10.000 o/min tijekom 1 minute. (4) Separately weigh C and add to A+B at 50 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.

(5) Produkt ohladiti do 30 °C uz miješanje sidrastim mješalom pri 50 o/min tijekom cca 30 minuta. (5) Cool the product to 30 °C while stirring with an anchor mixer at 50 rpm for approx. 30 minutes.

(6) Podesiti pH vrijednost oko 6,0 s D uz miješanje pri 50 o/min tijekom 15 minuta. (6) Adjust the pH to about 6.0 with D stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.

Gotovi kozmetički proizvod je tekuća emulzija, boje slonovače i sjajnog odsjaja; miris je neutralan. pH = 5,5-6,5. Analiza: 0,09-0,11% resveratrola (1). The finished cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion, ivory in color and shiny; the smell is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.09-0.11% resveratrol (1).

a Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, produkt tvrtke Activon, Koreja; c D-Panthenol Care, produkt tvrtke BASF AG, Njemačka; d Dermofeel® PA-12, produkt tvrtke Evonik dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; e Produkt tvrtke EVONIK dr. Straetmans, Njemačka; f Produkt tvrtke SEPPIC SA, Francuska; g Produkt tvrtke BASF AG, Njemačka; h Produkt tvrtke Henry Lamotte, Njemačka; i Produkt tvrtke IOI Oleo GmbH, Njemačka; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, produkt tvrtke CP Kelco, SAD; k Produkt tvrtke DSM Nutritional Products, Nizozemska; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, produkt tvrtke Lubrizol, SAD; m Produkt iz Primjera 1. and Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, product of the Activon company, Korea; c D-Panthenol Care, product of BASF AG, Germany; d Dermofeel® PA-12, product of Evonik Dr. Straetmans, Germany; e Product of EVONIK Dr. Straetmans, Germany; f Product of SEPPIC SA, France; g Product of BASF AG, Germany; h Product of the company Henry Lamotte, Germany; and Product of the company IOI Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, product of the company CP Kelco, USA; k Product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; l Carbopol® 980 polymer, product of Lubrizol, USA; m Product from Example 1.

Industrijska primjenjivost Industrial applicability

Predmetni izum koristi se za proizvodnju funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka koji nalazi primjenu u kozmetičkoj industriji za proizvodnju različitih vrsta kozmetičkih proizvoda na bazi resveratrola (1). Zbog toga je industrijska primjenjivost ovog izuma očigledna. The present invention is used for the production of a functional cosmetic ingredient that is used in the cosmetic industry for the production of various types of cosmetic products based on resveratrol (1). Therefore, the industrial applicability of this invention is obvious.

Claims (11)

1. Složeni funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak, naznačen time, da se sastoji od slijedećih sastojaka: (a) resveratrol <1>, 0,50-2,50% m/m, [image] (b) fosfolipid <PL>, 2,50-4,50% m/m, (c) ksantanska guma <XG>, 0,05-1,00% m/m, (d) konzervans <PR>, 0,10-2,00% m/m, (e) opcionalno, antioksidans <AO>, 0,00-0,20% m/m, i (f) pročišćena voda do 100% m/m formulacije, pri čemu sastojak (b) tvori liposomalne čestice u koje se smještaju molekule sastojaka (a).1. Complex functional cosmetic ingredient, characterized by the fact that it consists of the following ingredients: (a) resveratrol <1>, 0.50-2.50% w/w, [image] (b) phospholipid <PL>, 2.50-4.50% m/m, (c) xanthan gum <XG>, 0.05-1.00% m/m, (d) preservative <PR>, 0.10-2.00% m/m, (e) optionally, antioxidant <AO>, 0.00-0.20% w/w, and (f) purified water up to 100% m/m formulation, whereby the ingredient (b) forms liposomal particles in which the molecules of the ingredients (a) are placed. 2. Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema zahtjevu 1, naznačen time, da je sastojak (b), fosfolipid <PL>, izabran iz skupine koju čine: A. fosfatidil kolin <PC>, fosfatidil inositol <PI>, fosfatidil etanolamin <PE>, fosfatidil serin <PS>, B. hidrogenirani fosfatidil kolin <HPC>, hidrogenirani fosfatidil inositol <HPI>, hidrogenirani fosfatidil etanolamin <HPE>, hidrogenirani fosfatidil serin <HPS>, C. lecitin <L> izoliran iz suncokreta <Helianthus annuus>, soje <Glycine max>, repice <Brasica napus>, kanole <Brassica rapa>, pamuka <Gossypium spp> ili kokošjih <Gallus gallus domesticus> jaja, D. hidrogenirani lecitin <HGL> dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolinog ili pamukova lecitina ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, E. hidrolizirani lecitin <HL> dobiven iz suncokretova, sojinog, repičinog, kanolina ili pamukova lecitina ili lecitina iz kokošjih jaja, ili smjese navedenih tvari.2. Functional cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that ingredient (b), phospholipid <PL>, is selected from the group consisting of: A. phosphatidyl choline <PC>, phosphatidyl inositol <PI>, phosphatidyl ethanolamine <PE>, phosphatidyl serine <PS>, B. hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline <HPC>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol <HPI>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine <HPE>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine <HPS>, C. lecithin <L> isolated from sunflower <Helianthus annuus>, soybean <Glycine max>, rapeseed <Brasica napus>, canola <Brassica rapa>, cotton <Gossypium spp> or chicken <Gallus gallus domesticus> eggs, D. hydrogenated lecithin <HGL> obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola or cotton lecithin or lecithin from chicken eggs, E. hydrolyzed lecithin <HL> obtained from sunflower, soybean, rapeseed, cannolin or cotton lecithin or lecithin from chicken eggs, or mixtures of these substances. 3. Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema zahtjevima 1 i 2, naznačen time, da je sastojak (d), konzervans <PR>, izabran iz skupine koju čine: fenoksietanol, kaprilil glikol, benzil alkohol, dehidrooctena kiselina, benzojeva kiselina, sorbinska kiselina, etil heksilglicerol ili smjese navedenih tvari.3. Functional cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1 and 2, indicated by the fact that ingredient (d), preservative <PR>, is selected from the group consisting of: phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, ethyl hexylglycerol or mixtures of the above substances. 4. Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema bilo kojem od prethodnih zahtjeva, naznačen time, da je sastojak (e), antioksidans <AO>, izabran iz skupine koju čine: askorbinska kiselina, tokoferoli poput α-tokoferola, propil galat, butilirani hidroksianisol <BHA>, butilirani hidroksitoluen <BHT>, tercijarni butilhidrokinon <TBHQ> ili smjese navedenih tvari.4. Functional cosmetic ingredient according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ingredient (e), antioxidant <AO>, is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as α-tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole <BHA> , butylated hydroxytoluene <BHT>, tertiary butylhydroquinone <TBHQ> or mixtures of these substances. 5. Funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak prema bilo kojem od prethodnih zahtjeva, naznačen time da sadrži sastojke (a)-(c) u masenim udjelima kako slijedi: (a) resveratrol <1>, 1,75-2,00% m/m, (b) fosfolipid <PL>, 3,00-3,25% m/m, i (c) ksantanska guma <XG>, 0,10-0,50% m/m.5. A functional cosmetic ingredient according to any of the previous claims, characterized in that it contains ingredients (a)-(c) in the mass proportions as follows: (a) resveratrol <1>, 1.75-2.00% w/w, (b) phospholipid <PL>, 3.00-3.25% w/w, i (c) xanthan gum <XG>, 0.10-0.50% w/w. 6. Postupak priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema bilo kojem od prethodnih zahtjeva, naznačen time, da se sastoji od slijedećih koraka: (i) otapanje fosfolipida <PL> u organskom otapalu <OS>, miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta, uz maseni omjer fosfolipida <PL> prema organskom otapalu kako slijedi: PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m, (ii) dodavanje resveratrola <1> u otopinu iz koraka (i) i njegovo otapanje, miješanjem pri temperaturama od sobne temperature do temperature povrata otapala tijekom 10-60 minuta; (iii) uparavanje otopine iz koraka (ii) u vakuumu pri tlaku od 0,01-0,1 mbar, pri temperaturama od 10-25 °C, uz kontrolu sadržaja ostatnog organskog otapala iz koraka (i) ispod razine od 0,5% m/m, (iv) zasebno otapanje ksantanske gume <XG>, konzervansa i, opcionalno, antioksidansa u predviđenoj količini vode, miješanjem pri temperaturama od 20-50 °C tijekom 15-60 minuta; (v) dodavanje uparnog ostatka iz koraka (iii) u otopinu iz koraka (iv) i bubrenje dobivene smjese pri temperaturama 10-30 °C tijekom 30-120 minuta, i (vi) homogenizacija dobivene smjese pri 10.000-20.000 o/min tijekom 5-30 minuta; pri čemu nastaje formulacija prema izumu u obliku homogene mutne tekućine.6. The procedure for preparing a functional cosmetic ingredient according to any of the previous requirements, characterized by the fact that it consists of the following steps: (i) dissolving the phospholipid <PL> in the organic solvent <OS>, by stirring at temperatures from room temperature to the return temperature of the solvent for 10-60 minutes, with the mass ratio of the phospholipid <PL> to the organic solvent as follows: PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, m/m, (ii) adding resveratrol <1> to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by stirring at room temperature to reflux temperature for 10-60 minutes; (iii) evaporation of the solution from step (ii) in a vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the content of the remaining organic solvent from step (i) below the level of 0.5 % m/m, (iv) separate dissolution of xanthan gum <XG>, preservatives and, optionally, antioxidants in the prescribed amount of water, by mixing at temperatures of 20-50 °C for 15-60 minutes; (v) adding the vapor residue from step (iii) to the solution from step (iv) and swelling the resulting mixture at temperatures of 10-30 °C for 30-120 minutes, and (vi) homogenization of the resulting mixture at 10,000-20,000 rpm for 5-30 minutes; whereby the formulation according to the invention is formed in the form of a homogeneous cloudy liquid. 7. Postupak priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema zahtjevu 6, naznačen time da je organsko otapalo <OS> u koraku (i) izabrano iz skupine koju čine: metil formijat <HCOOMe>, metil acetat <MeOAc>, etil acetat <EtOAc>, propil acetat <n-PrOAc>, izopropil acetat <i-PrOAc> ili smjese navedenih otapala.7. The method of preparing a functional cosmetic ingredient according to claim 6, characterized in that the organic solvent <OS> in step (i) is selected from the group consisting of: methyl formate <HCOOMe>, methyl acetate <MeOAc>, ethyl acetate <EtOAc>, propyl acetate <n-PrOAc>, isopropyl acetate <i-PrOAc> or mixtures of said solvents. 8. Postupak priprave funkcionalnog kozmetičkog sastojka prema zahtjevima 6 i 7, naznačen time, da se: - u koraku (i), kao organsko otapalo <OS> koristi etil acetat koje uz maseni omjer: PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1,5, m/m, pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C, te - u koraku (ii), otapanje resveratrola <1> provodi pri temperaturama od 20-25 °C.8. The procedure for preparing a functional cosmetic ingredient according to claims 6 and 7, characterized in that: - in step (i), ethyl acetate is used as the organic solvent <OS>, which with the mass ratio: PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1.5, m/m, at temperatures of 20-25 °C, and - in step (ii), dissolution of resveratrol <1> is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C. 9. Upotreba kozmetičkog sastojka prema zahtjevima 1-5, naznačena time, da se koristi kao funkcionalni kozmetički sastojak za pripravu različitih kozmetičkih formulacija na bazi resveratrola <1> u oblicima izabranim iz skupine koju čine: losioni otopine, losioni emulzije tipa voda u ulju <W-O>, losioni emulzije tipa ulje u vodi <O-W>, kreme emulzije tipa voda u ulju <W-O>, kreme emulzije tipa ulje u vodi <O-W>, serumi otopine, serumi emulzije tipa voda u ulju <W-O>, serumi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi <O-W>, kozmetičke maske, stikovi za njegu ispod pazuha, ruževi za njegu usana, gelovi otopine ili gelovi emulzije tipa ulje u vodi <O-W>.9. The use of a cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1-5, characterized by the fact that it is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol <1> in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil emulsion lotions < W-O>, oil-in-water emulsion lotions <O-W>, water-in-oil emulsion creams <W-O>, oil-in-water emulsion creams <O-W>, solution serums, water-in-oil emulsion serums <W-O>, oil emulsion serums in water <O-W>, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care lipsticks, solution gels or oil-in-water emulsion gels <O-W>. 10. Upotreba kozmetičkog sastojka prema zahtjevima 1-5, naznačena time, da se koristi kao aktivni kozmetički sastojak koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, sredstvo za njegu okoloočnog područja, te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože.10. Use of a cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1-5, characterized in that it is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, agent for preventing the formation of wrinkles, agent for reducing wrinkles, agent for the treatment of stretch marks, agent for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, a means of care for the eye area, and as a means of improving the barrier function of the skin. 11. Upotreba formulacije prema zahtjevima 1-5, naznačena time, da se koristi kao kozmetički proizvod, formulacijskog oblika seruma, za direktnu primjenu na koži koji djeluje kao antioksidans, protuupalno sredstvo, depigmentacijsko sredstvo, sredstvo za prevenciju nastanka bora, sredstvo za ublažavanje bora, sredstvo za tretman strija, sredstvo za zatezanje i pomlađivanje kože, te kao sredstvo za poboljšanje barijerne funkcije kože.11. Use of the formulation according to claims 1-5, characterized by the fact that it is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application on the skin, which acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmentation agent, wrinkle prevention agent, wrinkle mitigation agent , a means for the treatment of stretch marks, a means for tightening and rejuvenating the skin, and as a means for improving the barrier function of the skin.
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