WO2023213754A1 - Composition of functional cosmetic ingredient based on resveratrol, process of its production, and use thereof - Google Patents
Composition of functional cosmetic ingredient based on resveratrol, process of its production, and use thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023213754A1 WO2023213754A1 PCT/EP2023/061436 EP2023061436W WO2023213754A1 WO 2023213754 A1 WO2023213754 A1 WO 2023213754A1 EP 2023061436 W EP2023061436 W EP 2023061436W WO 2023213754 A1 WO2023213754 A1 WO 2023213754A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- resveratrol
- cosmetic ingredient
- agent
- water
- lecithin
- Prior art date
Links
- LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N Trans-resveratrol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C1=CC(O)=CC(O)=C1 LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 62
- QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Resveratrol Natural products OC1=CC=CC(C=CC=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 53
- 235000021283 resveratrol Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 53
- 229940016667 resveratrol Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 53
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 37
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 45
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 7
- XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acetate Chemical compound CCOC(C)=O XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 53
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 208000031439 Striae Distensae Diseases 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000003716 rejuvenation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000008591 skin barrier function Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000001704 evaporation Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 22
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 20
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 235000019439 ethyl acetate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 19
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims description 19
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 210000002966 serum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 235000004977 Brassica sinapistrum Nutrition 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 235000010469 Glycine max Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 10
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- 240000000385 Brassica napus var. napus Species 0.000 claims description 6
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- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002260 anti-inflammatory agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940121363 anti-inflammatory agent Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000007854 depigmenting agent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000013601 eggs Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- TZIHFWKZFHZASV-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl formate Chemical compound COC=O TZIHFWKZFHZASV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N phosphatidylcholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC WTJKGGKOPKCXLL-RRHRGVEJSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerophosphorylethanolamin Natural products NCCOP(O)(=O)OCC(O)CO JZNWSCPGTDBMEW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 244000020551 Helianthus annuus Species 0.000 claims description 5
- BGNXCDMCOKJUMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tert-Butylhydroquinone Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=CC(O)=CC=C1O BGNXCDMCOKJUMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropanol acetate Natural products CC(C)OC(C)=O JMMWKPVZQRWMSS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000008104 phosphatidylethanolamines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000003905 phosphatidylinositols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004322 Butylated hydroxytoluene Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butylhydroxytoluene Chemical compound CC1=CC(C(C)(C)C)=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1 NLZUEZXRPGMBCV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ZTHYODDOHIVTJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propyl gallate Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC(O)=C(O)C(O)=C1 ZTHYODDOHIVTJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WPYMKLBDIGXBTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- TZCPCKNHXULUIY-RGULYWFUSA-N 1,2-distearoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphoserine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP(O)(=O)OC[C@H](N)C(O)=O)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC TZCPCKNHXULUIY-RGULYWFUSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethylnonane-1,2,3-triol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)(CC)C(O)CO ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000005711 Benzoic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 240000008100 Brassica rapa Species 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000009438 Gossypium Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M Propionate Chemical compound CCC([O-])=O XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000010323 ascorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960005070 ascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
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- PGRHXDWITVMQBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dehydroacetic acid Natural products CC(=O)C1C(=O)OC(C)=CC1=O PGRHXDWITVMQBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JEQRBTDTEKWZBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N dehydroacetic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=C(O)OC(C)=CC1=O JEQRBTDTEKWZBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethenylcyclopentane Chemical compound C=CC1CCCC1 BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N phenyl(114C)methanol Chemical compound O[14CH2]C1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-ZQBYOMGUSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- NQPDZGIKBAWPEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N valeric acid Chemical compound CCCCC(O)=O NQPDZGIKBAWPEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical class OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000208818 Helianthus Species 0.000 claims 3
- 239000004255 Butylated hydroxyanisole Substances 0.000 claims 2
- CZBZUDVBLSSABA-UHFFFAOYSA-N butylated hydroxyanisole Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1.COC1=CC=C(O)C=C1C(C)(C)C CZBZUDVBLSSABA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
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- PZNPLUBHRSSFHT-RRHRGVEJSA-N 1-hexadecanoyl-2-octadecanoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PZNPLUBHRSSFHT-RRHRGVEJSA-N 0.000 abstract 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/347—Phenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol ( 1 ) stabilized by a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG) , to the process of its preparation and application .
- a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol ( 1 ) stabilized by a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG) to the process of its preparation and application .
- Resveratrol ( 1 ) is poorly soluble in water and is sensitive to oxidation once dissolved in an aqueous phase that is relatively rich in dissolved oxygen .
- the present invention solves the aforementioned technical problem by using a complex cosmetic ingredient that contains encapsulated resveratrol in liposomes based on lecithin or its derivatives , which is stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG ) .
- XG xanthan gum
- Resveratrol (1) , 3 , 5 , 4 ' -trihydroxy- trans-stilbene or 5- [ (£) -2- ( 4- hydroxyphenyl ) ethen-l-yl] benzene-1, 3-diol is a well-known natural compound widely distributed in the plant world. It is used as an active nutritional and cosmetic substance.
- the richest source of natural resveratrol is the root of Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc . ) , which is mainly grown in China and Japan. Resveratrol has been shown to have preventive effects on the development of skin cancer, as well as anticarcinogenic and antioxidant effects.
- Xanthan gum is a natural polysaccharide obtained as a fermentation product from the bacteria [Xanthomonas campestris (Pammel 1895) Dowson 1939] : It is used as a valuable hydrocolloid in the food industry, as a food additive E415 in the category of thickeners, and as a thickener in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and chemical industries, see literature reference 2 :
- resveratrol (1) in cosmetic formulations are poor solubility in water and sensitivity to oxidation in the dissolved state, making it prone to oxidative degradation.
- MCT medium-chain triglyceride
- Such a complex cosmetic ingredient formulation may further comprise excipients from other classes, including stabilizers (thickeners) such as xanthan gum.
- the present invention solves a defined technical problem in a new and inventive way as described in the Detailed Description of the Invention chapter.
- the present invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient comprising the following components:
- resveratrol (1) 0.50-2.50% w/w
- phospholipid (PL) such as different lecithins or their derivatives, 2.50-4.50% w/w
- antioxidant AO
- component (f) purified water, up to 100% w/w of the composition, where component (b) forms liposomal particles in which molecules of component (a) are incorporated, and where said liposomal particles are further stabilized in a hydrocolloid gel system based on xanthan gum (XG) .
- XG xanthan gum
- the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention contains components (a) -(c) in mass percentages as follows:
- the present invention discloses a process for preparing the aforementioned liposomal form of resveratrol based on dissolving phospholipid (PL) in a suitable organic solvent such as ethyl acetate (EtOAc) , then dissolving resveratrol (1) in the prepared solution, and subsequently evaporating the organic solvent under mild conditions in a vacuum. Afterwards, the obtained liposomal resveratrol (1) is further stabilized by homogenization in a preserved aqueous solution of hydrocolloid based on xanthan gum (XG) , resulting in the formulation according to the invention.
- a suitable organic solvent such as ethyl acetate (EtOAc)
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion lotions, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion lotions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, serum solutions, water- in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care sticks, solution gels, or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.
- composition according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, agent for care of the skin around the eyes, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
- composition according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application to the skin that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
- the present invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient of the following components:
- antioxidant AO
- component (f) purified water, up to 100% w/w for the composition, where component (b) forms liposomal particles in which molecules of component (a) are incorporated.
- the liposomal particles thus formed are further stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG) .
- Component (b) , phospholipid (PL) which is used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of :
- PC phosphatidyl choline
- PI phosphatidyl inositol
- PE phosphatidyl ethanolamine
- PS phosphatidyl serine
- HPC hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline
- HPI hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol
- HPE hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine
- HPS hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine
- HGL hydrogenated lecithin obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola, or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs ,
- xanthan gum As component (c) , xanthan gum (XG) , all commercially available products containing xanthan gum can be used provided that they are of food, cosmetic, or pharmaceutical grade purity.
- the component (d) , preservative (PR) , used in the composition according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of: phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, ethylhexylglycerol, or mixtures of these substances .
- Optional component (e) , antioxidant (AO) , used in the composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as a-tocopherol , propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) , butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) , tertiary butylhydroquinone (TBHQ) , or mixtures of these substances.
- the functional cosmetic ingredient contains components (a) -(c) in mass percentages as follows:
- the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is prepared by a production process that includes the following steps:
- step (ii) adding resveratrol ⁇ 1> to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by mixing at temperatures ranging from room temperature to the boiling point of the solvent for 10-60 minutes ;
- step (iii) evaporating the solution from step (ii) under vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the residual organic solvent content from step (i) below the level of 0.5% w/w,
- xanthan gum (XG) separately dissolving xanthan gum (XG) , preservative, and, optionally, an antioxidant in a required amount of water by mixing at temperatures ranging from 20-50 °C for 15-60 minutes;
- step (v) adding the evaporated residue from step (iii) to the solution from step (iv) and swelling the resulting mixture at temperatures of 10-30 °C for 30-120 minutes, and
- the organic solvent (OS) in step (i) is selected from the group consisting of: methyl formate (HCOOMe) , methyl acetate (MeOAc) , ethyl acetate (EtOAc) , propyl acetate (n-PrOAc) , isopropyl acetate (i-PrOAc) , or mixtures of these solvents.
- HOOMe methyl formate
- MeOAc methyl acetate
- EtOAc ethyl acetate
- n-PrOAc propyl acetate
- i-PrOAc isopropyl acetate
- Ethyl acetate is preferably used as the organic solvent (OS) for dissolving the phospholipid (PL) in step (i) , with a weight ratio of:
- step (ii) the dissolution of resveratrol (1) is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil ⁇ W-0> emulsion lotions, oil-in-water ⁇ 0-W> emulsion lotions, water-in-oil ⁇ W-0> emulsion creams, oil-in-water ⁇ 0-W> emulsion creams, serum solutions, water- in-oil ⁇ W-0> emulsion serums, oil-in-water ⁇ 0-W> emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care sticks, solution gels, or oil-in-water ⁇ 0-W> emulsion gels.
- composition according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, agent for care the skin around the eyes, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
- the composition according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application to the skin that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
- Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes to produce a clear solution.
- step (3) Then the solution from step (2) was evaporated to dryness using a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum. The mass fraction of ethyl acetate was monitored and reduced to below 0.5% w/w by evaporation .
- phase C was added to the evaporated residue and left to swell at room temperature for 30 minutes.
- the finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous opaque liquid, milk-yellow in colour.
- Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes to produce a clear solution.
- B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was obtained.
- step (3) Then the solution from step (2) was evaporated to dryness using a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum. The mass fraction of ethyl acetate was monitored and reduced to below 0.5% w/w by evaporation .
- phase C was added to the remaining residue and left to swell at room temperature for 120 minutes.
- the finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous, opaque, viscous liquid, with a milky-yellow colour.
- Example 3 Preparation of an anti-aging cosmetic product in the form of cream with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
- the finished cosmetic product is a semi-solid emulsion of ivory colour with a shiny effect.
- Example 4 Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of serum for acne-prone skin with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
- Example 5 Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an antioxidant facial serum with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
- phase B additive phase B to phase A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.
- the final cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion, ivory-coloured, and with a shiny appearance.
- the present invention is used for producing a functional cosmetic ingredient that finds application in the cosmetic industry for manufacturing various types of cosmetic products based on resveratrol ( 1 ) . Therefore , the industrial applicability of this invention is obvious .
Abstract
The invention reveals a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol (1) in a phospholipid (PL) base such as soy lecithin, which is homogenized in an aqueous solution of the hydrocolloid xanthan gum (XG). Furthermore, the invention discloses a method for preparing the cosmetic ingredient by dissolving the phospholipids and resveratrol (1) in an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate, followed by evaporating the organic solvent under vacuum, resulting in the formation of liposomal resveratrol, which is then homogenized in an XG solution with the addition of suitable excipients such as preservatives and antioxidants. The product according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and depigmentation agent, for the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, for the treatment of stretch marks, for skin tightening and rejuvenation, and for improving the skin's barrier function.
Description
COMPOSITION OF FUNCTIONAL COSMETIC INGREDIENT BASED ON RESVERATROL , PROCESS OF ITS PRODUCTION , AND USE THEREOF
Disclosure of the Invention
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to a functional cosmetic ingredient based on liposomal resveratrol ( 1 ) stabilized by a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG) , to the process of its preparation and application .
Technical problem
The technical problem concerns the technology of incorporating the known active cosmetic substance resveratrol ( 1 ) into various cosmetic products . Resveratrol ( 1 ) is poorly soluble in water and is sensitive to oxidation once dissolved in an aqueous phase that is relatively rich in dissolved oxygen .
The present invention solves the aforementioned technical problem by using a complex cosmetic ingredient that contains encapsulated resveratrol in liposomes based on lecithin or its derivatives , which is stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG ) .
The use of the complex ingredient according to the invention enables easy incorporation of resveratrol into various cosmetic formulations , simplifying the technology of their production and resulting in stable products .
Prior Art
Resveratrol (1) , 3 , 5 , 4 ' -trihydroxy- trans-stilbene or 5- [ (£) -2- ( 4- hydroxyphenyl ) ethen-l-yl] benzene-1, 3-diol is a well-known natural compound widely distributed in the plant world. It is used as an active nutritional and cosmetic substance. The richest source of natural resveratrol is the root of Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum Siebold & Zucc . ) , which is mainly grown in China and Japan. Resveratrol has been shown to have preventive effects on the development of skin cancer, as well as anticarcinogenic and antioxidant effects. It protects the skin from damage caused by UV rays, as well as having anti-inflammatory and depigmenting effects. It prevents and treats acne, accelerates wound healing, and helps with psoriasis, eczema, and other exfoliative skin disorders, see literature reference 1:
1) R. R. Watson, S. Zibadi (Eds. ) : Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in Dermatology; Chapter 18: D. K. Das, H. Vasanthi: Resveratrol in Dermal Health, 177-187; Humana Press (2013) .
Xanthan gum (XG) is a natural polysaccharide obtained as a fermentation product from the bacteria [Xanthomonas campestris (Pammel 1895) Dowson 1939] :
It is used as a valuable hydrocolloid in the food industry, as a food additive E415 in the category of thickeners, and as a thickener in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and chemical industries, see literature reference 2 :
2) N. Z. Nordin, A. R. Rashidi, D. J. Dailin, R. A. Malek, N. I. W. Azelee, N. H. A. Manas, S. Selvamani, D. N. A. Zaidel, R. A. A. Alsaheb, D. Sukmawati, H. El Enshasy: Xanthan Biopolymer in Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications: Critical Review, Biosci. Res. 17 (2020) 205-220.
The main technical problems associated with the use of resveratrol (1) in cosmetic formulations are poor solubility in water and sensitivity to oxidation in the dissolved state, making it prone to oxidative degradation.
Certain solutions for the aforementioned technical problem have been described in the prior art through various methods of encapsulating resveratrol into micro- and nano-sized particles that increase the solubility and stability of resveratrol towards the oxidation process . For instance, Chen and Liao described nano-particles of resveratrol encapsulated in lecithin. Their process involves mixing a lecithin solution and a resveratrol solution to form a solution that is then added to an aqueous phase, likely for the precipitation of nanoparticles. The latter undergo a purification process, resulting in lecithin-encapsulated resveratrol particles of nano-dimensions, see literature reference 3:
3) CN112773728A; W. Chen, W. Liao: Nano resveratrol-coated compound as well as preparation method and application thereof; Applicant: University Jiangxi Normal Sci&Tech and University Sun Yat Sen; China (CN) ; priority date: 31.12.2020.
The related technical solution is described in the patent of Saar and co-workers, which describes a method for solubilizing poorly water- soluble cosmetic active substances, see literature reference 4:
4) US11207256B2; I. Saar, W. Brysch, J. von Wegerer: Method for solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic agents; Applicant: Athenion AG (CH) ; priority date: 30.06.2017.
Their process is based on dissolving cosmetic active substances such as resveratrol (1) in a complex system comprising:
(i) at least one lecithin derivative from the class of phosphatidyl choline (PC) , 20-80% w/w,
(ii) medium-chain triglyceride (MCT) , 10-70% w/w, at a ratio of PC : MCT = 80 : 1 - 1.33 : 1, w/w,
(iii) ethanol, 1-20% w/w, and
(iv) oleic acid, 0.5-10% w/w, at 30-120 °C to form a clear and stable system with significantly improved solubility of resveratrol in cosmetic products into which the complex cosmetic ingredient is incorporated. Such a complex cosmetic ingredient formulation may further comprise excipients from other classes, including stabilizers (thickeners) such as xanthan gum.
The present invention solves a defined technical problem in a new and inventive way as described in the Detailed Description of the Invention chapter.
Summary of the Disclosure
The present invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient comprising the following components:
(a) resveratrol (1) , 0.50-2.50% w/w,
(b) phospholipid (PL) such as different lecithins or their derivatives, 2.50-4.50% w/w,
(c) xanthan gum (XG) , 0.05-1.00% w/w,
(d) preservative (PR) , 0.10-2.00% w/w,
(e) optionally, antioxidant (AO) , 0.00-0.20% w/w, and
(f) purified water, up to 100% w/w of the composition, where component (b) forms liposomal particles in which molecules of component (a) are incorporated, and where said liposomal particles are further stabilized in a hydrocolloid gel system based on xanthan gum (XG) .
Preferably, the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention contains components (a) -(c) in mass percentages as follows:
(a) resveratrol (1) , 1.75-2.00% w/w,
(b) phospholipid (PL) , 3.00-3.25% w/w, and
(c) xanthan gum (XG) , 0.10-0.50% w/w.
The present invention discloses a process for preparing the aforementioned liposomal form of resveratrol based on dissolving phospholipid (PL) in a suitable organic solvent such as ethyl acetate (EtOAc) , then dissolving resveratrol (1) in the prepared solution, and subsequently evaporating the organic solvent under mild conditions in a vacuum. Afterwards, the obtained liposomal resveratrol (1) is further stabilized by homogenization in a preserved aqueous solution of hydrocolloid based on xanthan gum (XG) , resulting in the formulation according to the invention.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion lotions, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion lotions, water-in-oil (W-O) emulsion creams, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion creams, serum solutions, water- in-oil (W-O) emulsion serums, oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care sticks, solution gels, or oil-in-water (O-W) emulsion gels.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, agent for care of the skin around the eyes, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
Also, the composition according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application to the skin that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The present invention discloses a complex functional cosmetic ingredient of the following components:
(a) resveratrol (1) , 0.50-2.50% w/w,
(b) phospholipid (PL) , 2.50-4.50% w/w,
(c) xanthan gum (XG) , 0.05-1.00% w/w,
(d) preservative (PR) , 0.10-2.00% w/w,
(e) optionally, antioxidant (AO) , 0.00-0.20% w/w, and
(f) purified water, up to 100% w/w for the composition, where component (b) forms liposomal particles in which molecules of component (a) are incorporated. The liposomal particles thus formed are further stabilized in a hydrocolloid system based on xanthan gum (XG) .
Component (b) , phospholipid (PL) , which is used in the composition according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of :
A. phosphatidyl choline (PC) , phosphatidyl inositol (PI) , phosphatidyl ethanolamine (PE) , phosphatidyl serine (PS) ,
B. hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline (HPC) , hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol (HPI) , hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine (HPE) , hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine (HPS) ,
C. lecithin (L) isolated from sunflower {Helianthus annuus L. ) , soy Glycine max L. ) , rapeseed {Brasica napus L . ) , canola {Brassica rapa L . ) , cotton {Gossypium spp L. ) , or chicken {Gallus gallus domesticus) eggs,
D. hydrogenated lecithin (HGL) obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola, or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs ,
E. hydrolyzed lecithin (HL) obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola, or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs,
or mixtures of these substances .
As component (c) , xanthan gum (XG) , all commercially available products containing xanthan gum can be used provided that they are of food, cosmetic, or pharmaceutical grade purity.
The component (d) , preservative (PR) , used in the composition according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of: phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, ethylhexylglycerol, or mixtures of these substances .
Optional component (e) , antioxidant (AO) , used in the composition of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of: ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as a-tocopherol , propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) , butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) , tertiary butylhydroquinone (TBHQ) , or mixtures of these substances.
In the preferred embodiment of the present invention, the functional cosmetic ingredient contains components (a) -(c) in mass percentages as follows:
(a) resveratrol (1) , 1.75-2.00% w/w,
(b) phospholipid (PL) , 3.00-3.25% w/w, and
(c) xanthan gum (XG) , 0.10-0.50% w/w.
Preparation of the composition according to the present invention
The functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention is prepared by a production process that includes the following steps:
(i) dissolving phospholipid (PL) in an organic solvent (OS) by mixing at temperatures ranging from room temperature to the boiling point of the solvent for 10-60 minutes, using the weight ratio of phospholipids (PL) to organic solvent as follows:
PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, w/w,
(ii) adding resveratrol <1> to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by mixing at temperatures ranging from room
temperature to the boiling point of the solvent for 10-60 minutes ;
(iii) evaporating the solution from step (ii) under vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the residual organic solvent content from step (i) below the level of 0.5% w/w,
(iv) separately dissolving xanthan gum (XG) , preservative, and, optionally, an antioxidant in a required amount of water by mixing at temperatures ranging from 20-50 °C for 15-60 minutes;
(v) adding the evaporated residue from step (iii) to the solution from step (iv) and swelling the resulting mixture at temperatures of 10-30 °C for 30-120 minutes, and
(vi) homogenizing the resulting mixture at 10,000-20,000 rpm for 5- 30 minutes, yielding the composition from the present invention in the form of a homogenous turbid liquid.
Herein, the organic solvent (OS) in step (i) is selected from the group consisting of: methyl formate (HCOOMe) , methyl acetate (MeOAc) , ethyl acetate (EtOAc) , propyl acetate (n-PrOAc) , isopropyl acetate (i-PrOAc) , or mixtures of these solvents.
Ethyl acetate is preferably used as the organic solvent (OS) for dissolving the phospholipid (PL) in step (i) , with a weight ratio of:
PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1.5, w/w, at temperatures of 20-25 °C, while in step (ii) , the dissolution of resveratrol (1) is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C.
The typical examples of the process for preparing a cosmetic ingredient according to the invention are described in Examples 1 and 2.
Use of the composition according to the present invention
The cosmetic composition according to the invention is used as a functional cosmetic ingredient for the preparation of various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol (1) in forms selected from the group consisting of: lotion solutions, water-in-oil <W-0> emulsion lotions, oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion lotions, water-in-oil <W-0> emulsion creams, oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion creams, serum solutions, water- in-oil <W-0> emulsion serums, oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care sticks, solution gels, or oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion gels.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is used as an active cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, agent for care the skin around the eyes, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
The typical examples of cosmetic products obtained by using the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention are described in Examples 3-5.
Alternatively, given the known spectrum of beneficial cosmetic and pharmacological topical effects of resveratrol (1) , the composition according to the invention is used as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application to the skin that acts as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
Examples
General information
All quantitative compositions are expressed as mass fraction percentages (weight percentages; % w/w) of each ingredient in a given
formulation. The term "room temperature" (r.t. ) refers to the temperature range 20-25 °C. Mixing speed is expressed in the number of revolutions of the stirring element per minute (rpm) . All procedures for preparing the functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention, as well as test formulations of cosmetic products based on it, were carried out on a scale of 100 g.
Example 1. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
Procedure :
(1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes to produce a clear solution.
(2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was obtained .
(3) Then the solution from step (2) was evaporated to dryness using a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum. The mass fraction of ethyl acetate was monitored and reduced to below 0.5% w/w by evaporation .
(4) Optionally, further drying of residual ethyl acetate from the finished product can be carried out under a deep vacuum at an oil pump pressure of 0.001-0.01 mbar.
(5) Then phase C was added to the evaporated residue and left to swell at room temperature for 30 minutes.
(6) Then the mixture was homogenized by stirring at 15,000 rpm for 10 minutes .
The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous opaque liquid, milk-yellow in colour. The scent is mildly intense and characteristic. pH value = 6.0-7.5. Analysis: 0.90-1.10% of resveratrol (1) .
3 BergaSom Soy 90 of company Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%, a product of company Sigma-Aldrich, USA; c Ethyl acetate was used for dissolving lecithin and resveratrol in a mass ratio of lecithin : EtOAc = 1 : 1.5 m/m. d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%, a product of Symrise AG, Germany. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, a product of CP Kelco, USA; f A product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany.
Example 2. Preparation of a functional cosmetic ingredient according to the invention
Procedure :
(1) Phase A was stirred at room temperature for 30 minutes to produce a clear solution.
(2) Then B was added to the solution from step (1) and stirred at room temperature for 15 minutes until a clear solution was obtained.
(3) Then the solution from step (2) was evaporated to dryness using a rotary evaporator at 20-25 °C under vacuum. The mass fraction of ethyl acetate was monitored and reduced to below 0.5% w/w by evaporation .
(4) Then phase C was added to the remaining residue and left to swell at room temperature for 120 minutes.
(5) Then the mixture was homogenized by stirring at 15,000 rpm for 30 minutes .
The finished functional ingredient according to the invention had the form of a homogeneous, opaque, viscous liquid, with a milky-yellow colour. The scent is slightly intense and characteristic. pH value = 6.0-7.5. Analysis: 1.80-2.20% of resveratrol (1) .
3 BergaSom Soy 90 of company Berg+Schmidt Functional Lipids GmbH&Co. KG, Germany. b Ethyl acetate, anhydrous 99.8%, a product of company Sigma-Aldrich, USA; c Ethyl acetate was used for dissolving lecithin and resveratrol in a mass ratio of lecithin : EtOAc = 1 : 1.5 m/m. d Biotive® Resveratrol, min 99%, a product of company Symrise AG, Germany. e Keltrol® CG-SFT, a product of company CP Kelco, USA; f A product of company Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany.
Example 3. Preparation of an anti-aging cosmetic product in the form of cream with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
Procedure :
(1) Heat the previously weighted phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes .
(3) Cool to 50 °C over 30 minutes with mixing using an anchor-type stirrer at 50 rpm.
(4) Separately weigh C and let it swell in a dark place at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 5 minutes .
(5) Add C to A+B at 50 °C. Then add D to A+B+C and homogenize by mixing at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(6) Cool the product to 30 °C with stirring using an anchor-type stirrer at 50 rpm for approximately 30 minutes.
(7) Adjust the pH value to around 6.0 with E while mixing at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
The finished cosmetic product is a semi-solid emulsion of ivory colour with a shiny effect. The scent is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.09-0.11% of resveratrol (1) .
3 Ph.Eur.10; b A product of company Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; c Dermofeel® PA-12, a product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; d D- Panthenol Care, a product of BASF AG, Germany; e A product of BASF AG, Germany; f Keltrol® CG-SFT, a product of CP Kelco, USA; g A product of company Henry Lamotte, Germany; h Carbopol® 980 polymer, a product of Lubrizol, USA; 1 A product of Givaudan, Switzerland; j Blanova Active Sodium Hyaluronate 8.000-50.000 Da, a product of DeWold Chemical, USA; k A product of SEPPIC SA, France; 1 A product of TOT Oleo GmbH, Germany; m Bioxan E 1300 IU, a product of BTSA, Spain; n
The product from Example 1.
Example 4. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of serum for acne-prone skin with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
Procedure :
(1) Heat the previously weighted phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Add B to A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes .
(3) Cool to 50 °C with mixing using an anchor-type stirrer at 50 rpm for 30 minutes.
(4) Separately weigh C and add it to A+B at 50 °C, then homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(5) Cool the product to 30 °C with mixing using an anchor-type stirrer at 50 rpm for approximately 30 minutes.
(6) Adjust the pH value to around 6.0 with D while stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
The finished cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion with an ivory colour and shiny appearance. The scent is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.18-0.22% of resveratrol (1) .
3 Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, a product of Activon, South Korea; c Niacinamide PC, a product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; d D-Panthenol Care, a product of BASF AG, Germany; e Dermofeel® PA-12, a product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; f A product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; g A product of SEPPIC SA, France; h A produkt of BASF AG, Germany; 1 A product of TOT Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, a product of CP Kelco, USA; k A product of DSM Nutritional Products, The Netherlands; 1 Carbopol® 980 polymer, a product of Lubrizol, USA; m The product from Example 2; n A product of Jungbunzlauer , Switzerland, dissolved in water before the use.
Example 5. Preparation of a cosmetic product in the form of an antioxidant facial serum with resveratrol (1) using a functional ingredient according to the invention
Procedure :
(1) Heat the previously weighted phases A and B to 80 °C.
(2) Add phase B to phase A at 80 °C and homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 2 minutes.
(3) Cool down to 50 °C with mixing using an anchor-type mixer at 50 rpm for 30 minutes.
(4) Weight phase C separately and add it to A+B at 50 °C. Homogenize by stirring at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute.
(5) Cool the product down to 30 °C with mixing using an anchor-type mixer at 50 rpm for approximately 30 minutes.
(6) Adjust the pH value to around 6.0 with D while stirring at 50 rpm for 15 minutes.
The final cosmetic product is a liquid emulsion, ivory-coloured, and with a shiny appearance. The scent is neutral. pH = 5.5-6.5. Analysis: 0.09-0.11% of resveratrol (1) . a Ph.Eur.10; b Activonol, a product of Activon, South Korea; c D- Panthenol Care, a product of BASF AG, Germany; d Dermofeel® PA-12, a product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; e A product of Evonik dr. Straetmans, Germany; f A product of SEPPIC SA, France; g A product of BASF AG, Germany; h A product of company Henry Lamotte, Germany; 1 A product of TOT Oleo GmbH, Germany; j Keltrol® CG-SFT, a product of CP
Kelco , USA; k A product of DSM Nutritional Products , The Netherlands ; 1 Carbopol® 980 polymer, a product of Lubrizol , USA; m The product from Example 1 .
Industrial Applicability
The present invention is used for producing a functional cosmetic ingredient that finds application in the cosmetic industry for manufacturing various types of cosmetic products based on resveratrol ( 1 ) . Therefore , the industrial applicability of this invention is obvious .
Claims
CLAIMS A complex functional cosmetic ingredient, comprising the following components:
(a) resveratrol <1>, 0.50-2.50% w/w,
(b) phospholipid <PL>, 2.50-4.50% w/w,
(c) xanthan gum <XG>, 0.05-1.00% w/w,
(d) preservative <PR>, 0.10-2.00% w/w,
(e) optionally, antioxidant <AO>, 0.00-0.20% w/w, and
(f) purified water, up to 100% w/w of the composition, where component (b) forms liposomal particles into which molecules of component (a) are incorporated. The functional cosmetic ingredient according to claim 1, wherein component (b) , phospholipid <PL> is selected from the group consisting of :
A. phosphatidyl choline <PC>, phosphatidyl inositol <PI>, phosphatidyl ethanolamine <PE>, phosphatidyl serine <PS>,
B. hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline <HPC>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl inositol <HPI>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl ethanolamine <HPE>, hydrogenated phosphatidyl serine <HPS>,
C. lecithin <L> isolated from sunflower <Helianthus annuus> , soy <Glycine max> , rapeseed <Brasica napus> , canola <Brassica rapa> , cotton <Gossypium spp>, or chicken <Gallus gallus domesticus> eggs,
D. hydrogenated lecithin <HGL> obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola, or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs,
E. hydrolyzed lecithin <HL> obtained from sunflower, soy, rapeseed, canola, or cotton lecithin, or lecithin from chicken eggs, or mixtures of these substances . The functional cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1 and 2, wherein component (d) , preservative <PR>, is selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, ethylhexylglycerol, or mixtures of these substances. The functional cosmetic ingredient according to any of previous claims, wherein component (e) , antioxidant <A0>, is selected from the group consisting of ascorbic acid, tocopherols such as a- tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole <BHA>, butylated hydroxytoluene <BHT>, tertiary butylhydroquinone <TBHQ>, or mixtures of these substances. The functional cosmetic ingredient according to any of previous claims, wherein it contains components (a) -(c) in weight percentages as follows:
(a) resveratrol <1>, 1.75-2.00% w/w,
(b) phospholipid <PL>, 3.00-3.25% w/w, and
(c) xanthan gum <XG>, 0.10-0.50% w/w. A process for the preparation of functional cosmetic ingredients according to any of the previous claims, wherein it includes the following steps :
(i) dissolving phospholipid <PL> in an organic solvent <0S> by mixing at temperatures ranging from room temperature to the boiling point of the solvent for 10-60 minutes, using the weight ratio of phospholipids <PL> to organic solvent as follows :
PL : OS = 1 : 1-10, w/w,
(ii) adding resveratrol <1> to the solution from step (i) and dissolving it by mixing at temperatures ranging from room
temperature to the boiling point of the solvent for 10-60 minutes ;
(iii) evaporating the solution from step (ii) under vacuum at a pressure of 0.01-0.1 mbar, at temperatures of 10-25 °C, while controlling the residual organic solvent content from step (i) below the level of 0.5% w/w,
(iv) separately dissolving xanthan gum <XG>, preservative and, optionally, an antioxidant in a required amount of water by mixing at temperatures ranging from 20-50 °C for 15-60 minutes ;
(v) adding the evaporated residue from step (iii) to the solution from step (iv) and swelling the resulting mixture at temperatures of 10-30 °C for 30-120 minutes, and
(vi) homogenizing the resulting mixture at 10,000-20,000 rpm for 5-30 minutes, yielding the composition from the present invention in the form of a homogenous turbid liquid. The process for the preparation of functional cosmetic ingredients according to claim 6, wherein the organic solvent <OS> in step (i) is selected from the group consisting of: methyl formate <HCOOMe>, methyl acetate <MeOAc>, ethyl acetate <EtOAc>, propyl acetate <n-PrOAc>, isopropyl acetate <i-PrOAc>, or mixtures of these solvents. The process for the preparation of functional cosmetic ingredients according to claims 6 and 7, wherein: in step (i) , ethyl acetate is used as the organic solvent <OS> with the weight ratio of :
PL : EtOAc = 1 : 1-1.5, w/w, in step (ii) , the dissolution of resveratrol <1> is carried out at temperatures of 20-25 °C.
The use of a cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1-5, as a functional cosmetic ingredient for preparing various cosmetic formulations based on resveratrol <1> in forms selected from the group consisting of lotion solutions, water-in-oil <W-0> emulsion lotions, oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion lotions, water-in-oil <W-0> emulsion creams, oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion creams, serum solutions, water-in-oil <W-0> emulsion serums, oil-in-water <0- W> emulsion serums, cosmetic masks, underarm care sticks, lip care sticks, solution gels, or oil-in-water <0-W> emulsion gels. The use of a cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1-5, as a functional cosmetic ingredient that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, agent for care the skin around the eyes, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function. The use of a cosmetic ingredient according to claims 1-5, as a cosmetic product, in the form of a serum formulation, for direct application to the skin that acts as an antioxidant, antiinflammatory agent, depigmenting agent, wrinkle-preventing agent, wrinkle-reducing agent, stretch mark treatment, skin tightening and rejuvenating agent, and as a means of improving the skin's barrier function.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| HRP20220570AA HRP20220570A1 (en) | 2022-05-03 | 2022-05-03 | Formulation of resveratrol-based functional cosmetic ingredient, procedure for its preparation and usage |
| HRP20220570A | 2022-05-03 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2023213754A1 true WO2023213754A1 (en) | 2023-11-09 |
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ID=86387239
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2023/061436 WO2023213754A1 (en) | 2022-05-03 | 2023-05-01 | Composition of functional cosmetic ingredient based on resveratrol, process of its production, and use thereof |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| HR (1) | HRP20220570A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2023213754A1 (en) |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20100215755A1 (en) * | 2007-09-08 | 2010-08-26 | Daniela Bratescu | Resveratrol Ferulate Compounds, Compositions Containing The Compounds, And Methods Of Using The Same |
| EP2431023A1 (en) * | 2009-04-29 | 2012-03-21 | Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd. | Flexible liposome of resveratrol and preparation method thereof |
| CN112773728A (en) | 2020-12-31 | 2021-05-11 | 江西科技师范大学 | Compound of nano-encapsulated resveratrol, preparation method and application thereof |
| US11207256B2 (en) | 2017-06-30 | 2021-12-28 | Athenion Ag | Method for solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic agents |
-
2022
- 2022-05-03 HR HRP20220570AA patent/HRP20220570A1/en unknown
-
2023
- 2023-05-01 WO PCT/EP2023/061436 patent/WO2023213754A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20100215755A1 (en) * | 2007-09-08 | 2010-08-26 | Daniela Bratescu | Resveratrol Ferulate Compounds, Compositions Containing The Compounds, And Methods Of Using The Same |
| EP2431023A1 (en) * | 2009-04-29 | 2012-03-21 | Shanghai Jahwa United Co., Ltd. | Flexible liposome of resveratrol and preparation method thereof |
| US11207256B2 (en) | 2017-06-30 | 2021-12-28 | Athenion Ag | Method for solubilizing poorly water-soluble cosmetic agents |
| CN112773728A (en) | 2020-12-31 | 2021-05-11 | 江西科技师范大学 | Compound of nano-encapsulated resveratrol, preparation method and application thereof |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| D. K. DAS, H. VASANTHI: "Resveratrol in Dermal Health", 2013, HUMANA PRESS, article "Bioactive Dietary Factors and Plant Extracts in Dermatology", pages: 177 - 187 |
| N. Z. NORDINA. R. RASHIDID. J. DAILINR. A. MALEKN. I. W. AZELEEN. H. A. MANASS. SELVAMANID. N. A. ZAIDELR. A. A. ALSAHEBD. SUKMAWA: "Xanthan Biopolymer in Pharmaceutical and Cosmeceutical Applications: Critical Review", BIOSCI. RES., vol. 17, 2020, pages 205 - 220 |
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|---|---|
| HRP20220570A1 (en) | 2023-11-10 |
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