GB2280685A

GB2280685A - A mogador type fabric

Info

Publication number: GB2280685A
Application number: GB9415079A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Scheuten Ottaviano Mantero
Original assignee: FOSSATI FERMO 1871 Srl
Current assignee: FOSSATI FERMO 1871 Srl
Priority date: 1993-08-03
Filing date: 1994-07-27
Publication date: 1995-02-08
Anticipated expiration: 2014-07-27
Also published as: ITMI931766A1; GB9415079D0; ITMI931766A0; GB2280685B; IT1264556B1; CH689763A5

Abstract

An improved method of manufacturing 8 Mogador type fabric wherein warp yarns are interwoven with weft yarns of silk is characterised by a weft density of from 95 to 120 picks per centimetre. Every fifth pick (V, V') may be inserted so as to block slippage of the yarns. The warps may be of cotton or wool. <IMAGE>

Description

IMPROVEMENT IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURE OF A MOGADOR TYPE FABRIC AND FABRIC OBTAINED BY THIS METHOD The present invention relates to an improvement in the method of manufacture of a Mogador type fabric. It also relates to a Mogador type fabric obtained with the abovementioned improved method.

For Mogador fabric known to date, a traditional production technique foresaw the weaving of a chain of warp yarns in cotton with weft yarns in silk according to a base weave shown in figure 2, wherein twelve warp yarns are interwoven with a weft yarn which remains below the first six warp yarns and then moves above the remaining six warp yarns. The subsequent weft yarn behaves in the opposite manner, that is to say it remains above the first six warp yarns and moves below for the subsequent six warp yarns.

In this way a Mogador type fabric is obtained, depicted in figures 3 and 4, which has a wavy, "ribbed" surface, characterised by rectilinear and bulging strips of fabric, lying side by side.

For Mogador type fabrics known hitherto, a number of pickings of weft yarns are performed per centimetre of end fabric which at most reaches ninety pickings per centimetre. The fabric obtained in this way is nevertheless somewhat lightweight and slack, with the unattractive appearance of a sagging and loose fabric.

This sagging fabric effect is particularly noticeable in those items of clothing such as ties, where the lack of stiffness and weight of the garment requires reinforcement linings to be applied inside the tie.

Above all, the Mogador fabric currently produced has features of colour and touch which should be improved in order to extend the range of application of this type of fabric.

Finally the traditional Mogador type fabric is not very suitable for those items of clothing wherein1 in addition to a certain degree of stiffness and weight of the cloth, a considerable optical effect of shine, fullness of colour and a pleasing sensation of softness to the touch are also required.

The object of the present invention is therefore that of providing a method for the manufacture of a Mogador type fabric having features of stiffness which are superior to those of Mogador type fabrics known to date.

Another object of the present invention is that of providing a method as referred above which confers the Mogador fabric with an improved optical and touch effect compared to Mogador fabrics known hitherto.

The preceding objects are achieved by a method having the features of claim 1 of the present description.

The invention will in any case be made clearer on reading the following description relating to preferred embodiments of the improved method of the invention.

The following description must be read with reference to the accompanying drawing in which: figure 1 shows the elementary diagram of a generical weaving machine suitable for illustrating the weaving method according to the invention; figure 2 represents a base weave of a traditional Mogador type fabric; figure 3 represents a view from above of a portion of Mogador fabric; figure 4 represents a side view of the portion of Mogador fabric of figure 3; figure 5 represents a weave of a preferred embodiment of Mogador fabric according to the present invention.

The weaving method is described with reference to the diagram of the weaving loom in figure 1. From this it can be seen how the warp yarns 21, unwound by a beam 22, are guided and made to move forward through the healds for forming the shed 24, which are supported, in a manner in itself known, by a set of frames 23 which are moved reciprocally upwards and downwards by a dobby drive or one of another kind.

The warp yarns 21, defining the shed 24, are normally interwoven with a weft yarn 25 by means of a weft picking part 26, of whatsoever type depending on the textile loom used, for the formation of a Mogador type fabric 27 according to the diagram of picking of the weft yarns in the warp yarns described hereinbelow.

According to a further step of the method of manufacture of the Mogador fabric, at every movement forwards of the fabric on the loom itself the beating of a reed or beater 28 is provided for bringing the weft yarn 25, recently inserted, close to the front of the fabric being formed.

In this way the fabric is compacted and in output has a certain number of weft pickings per centimetre of fabric.

The picking of the weft yarns 25 in the warp yarns 21 is defined by means of the weave, that is to say by means of a diagram representing the dobby drive. This weave is substantially a code which represents the way in which the textile loom performs the pickings of the weft yarns in the warp yarns according to a principle of functioning of the loom known since the previous century.

A sample of Mogador type fabric has been schematised in figures 3 and 4; it is characterised, as already referred previously, by a series of bulging "barrels" 31 parallel to and alongside one another.

This type of fabric configuration can be obtained both by using a weave of the type shown in figure 2, representing a traditional weave, and by the weave shown in figure 5, referring to a type of preferred weave according to the present invention.

Referring to figure 5, figure 2 having already been described substantially above, it can be seen how, according to a general layout, the weave defining the Mogador fabric has a base interweaving of twelve warp yarns, denoted in figure 5 by numerals 1 to 12, which are interwoven with base warp yarns, denoted by the Roman numerals I to IV and I' to IV', so that the weft yarns I and I' remain below the warp yarns 1 to 6 and above the warp yarns 7 to 12, and the weft yarns II and II' remain above the warp yarns 1 to 6 and below the warp yarns 7 to 12.

Similarly, the base weft yarns III, III' and IV, IV' are inserted in the warp yarns like the weft yarns I, I' and II, II' respectively, as is moreover clear by observing figure 5.

according to the invention, in order to improve the features of the Mogador type fabric in the manner referred to above, it was decided to insert a higher number of base weft yarns in relation to the number of weft yarns inserted according to the traditional method of manufacture of the Mogador type fabric.

More particularly, according to the invention, it was decided to insert from 95 to 120 base weft yarns for each centimetre of end fabric.

As is fully clear in figure 5, at every four weft yarns further weft yarns are inserted to block slipping of the fabric; said non-slip yarns, according to a preferred embodiment, can be provided by inserting, after four base weft yarns, a taffeta weft yarn V, i.e.

with alternate picking of the weft yarn below and above respectively the warp yarns progressively encountered during picking. n second taffeta weft yarn V' is also inserted, again after four base weft yarns which1 nevertheless, in order not to force the same warp yarns excessively and repeatedly, is inserted alternatively above and below the warp yarns encountered during insertion with an opposite sequence of insertion to that of the preceding non-slip yarn V, as shown in figure 5.

An embodiment of the improved method of manufacture of Mogador type fabric according to the present invention provides for a chain of warp yarns having a 2/60 denier count to be inserted with weft yarns in weighted silk according to the weave in figure 5.

The weighted silk weft yarn can have a denier count of 60/66 or 80/88.

according to this first preferred embodiment the number of weft yarns inserted is equal to 115 per centimetre of fabric.

The Mogador fabric obtained in this way, thanks to the use of a higher number of weft yarns per centimetre of fabric, has greater weight and stiffness than traditional Mogador fabrics which makes it suitable for the constituent fabric.

The Mogador fabric obtained in this way, due to the fact that a higher number of weft yarns have been inserted, also has an optical sensation of greater "fullness" of colour, and is softer to the touch than traditional Mogador fabric.

According to a further advantageous step of the present method, the fabric obtained in this way is later subjected to a process of surface burning in order to eliminate the "hairiness", i.e. the filaments of the fabric, and subsequent cold washing which washes away the residues of the "burning" and cools the fabric, avoiding excessive propagation of the surface burning.

In this way a further improvement in the optical and tactile effects, which have even greater shine and softness to the touch, is achieved.

According to further embodiments, similar advantageous results have been obtained by using warp yarns in cotton with a denier count of between 2/50 and 2/70 and in wool with denier count of 3/40, combined with weft yarns, both in weighted silk and in pure silk.

Rs regards picking of the non-slip weft yarn, this can also be achieved, in addition to after four weft yarns of the base weave, after 3, 5 or 6 base weft yarns.

Claims

1. - A method of manufacture of a Mogador type fabric wherein warp yarns are interwoven with weft yarns in silk according to a base weave defining a Mogador type fabric, characterised in that from 95 to 120 pickings of weft yarns of said base weave are performed per centimetre of end fabric.

2. - method according to claim 1, characterised in that it provides, after weaving, for a process of burning of the hair and a process of cold washing.

3. - method according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that it uses weft yarns in weighted silk.

4. - A method according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that it uses warp yarns in cotton.

5. - A method according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that it uses warp yarns in wool.

6. - n method according to any one of the previous claims, characterised in that, after a predetermined number of pickings of weft yarns according to said base weave, a non-slip weft yarn is inserted.

7. - n Mogador type fabric obtained according to the method of the previous claims 1 to 6 and as therein before described with reference to and as illustrated in the accompanying drawings.