GB2304120A

GB2304120A - A woven fabric, in particular a mogador type fabric

Info

Publication number: GB2304120A
Application number: GB9615695A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Scheuten Ottaviano Mantero
Original assignee: FOSSATI FERMO 1871 Srl
Current assignee: FOSSATI FERMO 1871 Srl
Priority date: 1995-08-09
Filing date: 1996-07-25
Publication date: 1997-03-12
Anticipated expiration: 2016-07-25
Also published as: GB9615695D0; IT1277465B1; GB2304120B; ITMI951763A0; ITMI951763A1; JPH09111588A; KR970011078A

Abstract

In a method for the production of a woven fabric, such as a Mogador type fabric, wherein warp threads in wool or in cotton are interwoven with weft threads in silk according to a predefined basic weave, said warp threads in wool have a count of between 2/28,000 and 3/48,000 and said warp threads in cotton have a count of between 2/60,000 and 4/43,000. (the above counts being expressed in metres per kilogram).

Description

METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FABRIC, IN PARTICULAR A MOGADOR TYPE FABRIC, AND FABRIC OBTAINED BY THIS METHOD The present invention relates to a method for the production of a fabric, in particular a Mogador type fabric. It also relates to a fabric obtained by the abovementioned method.

For Mogador type fabric known to date, a traditional production method includes weaving of a chain of warp threads in cotton with weft threads in silk according to a basic weave, wherein twelve warp threads are interwoven with a weft thread which remains below the first six warp threads and then moves above the remaining six warp threads. The subsequent weft thread acts in an opposite manner, that is to say it first remains above the first six warp threads and then moves below for the successive six warp threads.

In this way a Mogador type fabric, which has a corrugated, "ribbed" surface, characterised by rectilinear and adjacent convex stripsoffabric is produced.

For the production of traditional Mogador type fabrics a number of picks (insertions) of weft threads were performed per centimetre of final fabric which at most reached the number of ninety picks per centimetre. The fabric obtained in this way was however somewhat lightweight and slack, with the unpleasant appearance of a sagging and loose fabric.

This sagging fabric effect was particularly noticeable in those garments such as ties where the lack of stiffness and heaviness of the garment means a reinforcing lining must necessarily be attached inside the tie.

The traditional Mogador type fabric was, all in all, poorly suited for those garments wherein, in addition to a certain stiffness and heaviness of the fabric, a considerable optical effect of shine, fullness of colour and a superior soft feel were also required.

In order to avoid the previous disadvantages, the Applicant has proposed a perfected method, object of the Italian patent application no. Mi93A 001766. This perfected method provided for a considerable increase in the number of picks or insertions of weft threads which were between 95 and 120 picks per centimetre. The warp threads used consisted of cotton threads with a count of between 2/50,000 and 2no,000 or in wool with a count of 3/40,000.

Although the disadvantages of the previous fabric had been overcome, the Mogador type fabric obtained by such a method did not have ideal and desirable characteristics. In particular it was too stiff and garments made therein gave the impression of clothes which were somewhat "dry" and "cold".

The Applicant has thus developed a new method whose innovations have been found to be suitable also for fabrics having different weaving from that of the "ribbed" Mogador type fabrics.

The object of the present invention is therefore that of providing a method for the production of a fabric, in particular a Mogador type fabric, having superior stiffness characteristics than those of traditional Mogador type fabrics, but which has greater properties of softness and flexibility compared to the Mogador type fabric obtained by the perfected method referred above.

Another object of the present invention is that of providing a method as referred above which confers on the fabric a better optical and tactile effect compared to Mogador fabrics known to date, in particular which allows a fabric which has the appearance of a warm and softfabricto be obtained.

The previous objects are achieved by a method for the production of a fabric, in particular a Mogadortype fabric, wherein warp threads in wool or in cotton are interwoven with weft threads in silk according to a predefined basic weave, in particular a weave for Mogador type fabric, characterised in that said warp threads in wool have a count of between 2128,000 and 3/48,000 and said warp threads in cotton have a count of between 2160,000 and 4/43,000.

In the counts of wool and cotton referred above, the numbers 2, 3 and 4 placed before the slash mean that the thread is composed of 2, 3 and 4 filaments, while the numbers 28,000,48,000, 60,000 and 43,000, placed after the slash, indicate the metres of length of this yarn, corresponding to a skein weighing one kilogram.

For wool the yarn having a count of 2/28,000 is the smallest yarn in the range of interest for the present invention, while the count 3/48,000 is the largest yarn as well as the most preferred of this range.

For cotton the yarn having a count of 2/60,000 is the smallest yarn in the range of interest for the present invention, while the count of 4/43,000 is the largest yarn as well as the most preferred of this range.

According to the present invention warp threads in cotton were used having a size greater than that of the yarns used hitherto for these types of fabrics so as to obtain a fabric which has optimal softness and flexibility which allows garments to be produced which give the sensation of warm and soft clothes. Fabrics with such a composition have never previously been supplied.

Preferably, according to the method of the present invention, 90 to 130 picks of weft threads of said basic weave are performed per centimetre of final fabric.

The method also foresees, after weaving, performing of an operation of burning of the pile and one of cold washing.

After a preset number of picks of weft threads according to said basic weave, a non-slip weft thread is also inserted.

According to the method of the present invention weft threads in weighted silk are also preferably used, having a count in deniers of between 40/44 and 80/88, preferably 80/88.

The object of the present invention is likewise the fabric obtained by the method of the present invention referred above.

The invention will in any case be made clearer on reading of the following description relating to preferred embodiments of the present method.

The following description must be read with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which: Figure 1 represents a weave of a preferred embodiment of the Mogador type fabric according to the present invention; Figure 2 shows the basic diagram of a generical weaving machine suitable for illustrating the weaving method according to the invention; Figure 3 represents a view from above of a portion of the Mogadorfabric, preferred embodiment of the present invention Figure 4 represents a sectioned view of the portion of Mogador type fabric taken along line 4-4 of Figure 3; Figure 5 represents a weave for another embodiment of fabric made by means of the method of the present invention; Figure 6 represents a weave for a further fabric embodiment made by means of the method of the present invention.

The weaving method is described with reference to the weaving loom diagram in Figure 2. It shows how, in a wholly traditional manner, the warp threads 21, unwound by a beam 22, are guided and moved forwards via healds for the formation of the warp shed 24, carried by a series of frames 23 which are moved altematively upwards and downwards via a dobby control or one of another type.

The warp threads 21 defining the warp shed 24 are normally interwoven with a weft thread 25, by means of a weft picking part 26, of whatsoever type, according to the textile loom used, for the formation of a fabric 27 according to a predetermined diagram of insertion of the weft threads in the warp threads.

According to a further step of the method of producing fabric, provision is made, at each advance of the fabric on the same loom, for the beating of a reed or batten 28 for moving the weft thread 25, newly inserted, near the face of the fabric being formed.

In this way the fabric is compacted and has in output a certain number of weft picks per centimetre of fabric.

The picking of the weft threads 25 in the warp threads 21 is defined by means of the weave, that is to say by means of a diagram representing the dobby control. This weave is substantially a code which represents the way in which the textile loom implements the insertions of the weft threads in the warp threads.

A sample of Mogador type fabric has been schematised in Figures 3 and 4; it is characterised, as already referred previously, by a series of convex "cylinder" shapes 31, parallel and adjacent one to the other.

This type of fabric configuration may be obtained by using a weave of the type shown in Figure 1, representing a type of preferred weave for the formation of a Mogador type fabric according to the present invention.

Referring to Figure lit can be seen how, according to a general diagram, the preferred weave defining the Mogador type fabric has a basic interweaving in eight warp threads, denoted in Figure 1 by reference numerals 1 to 8, which are interwoven with the basic weft threads, denoted by the Roman numerals I to IV and I' to IV', so that the weft threads I and I' remain below the warp threads 1 to 4 and above the warp threads 5 to 8, and the weft threads II and II' remain above the warp threads 1 to 4 and below the warp threads 5 to 8.

Similarly, the basic weft threads 111,111' and IV, IV' are inserted in the warp threads like the weft threads 1,1' and 11, II' respectively, as moreover is fully clear on consulting Figure 1.

As is quite clear in Figure 1, for every four weft threads there is the picking of further weft threads to block sliding of the fabric. Said non-slip threads, according to a preferred embodiment, may be provided by inserting, after four basic weft threads, a taffeta weft thread V, that is to say with alternate picking of the weft thread respectively below and above the warp threads progressively encountered during picking. A second taffeta weft thread V' is also inserted, again after four basic weft threads, which however, in order not to force excessively and continually the same warp threads, is inserted altematively above and below the warp threads encountered during insertion with an opposite insertion sequence to the one of the previous non- slip thread V, as shown in Figure 1.An embodiment example of the perfected method for the production of a Mogador type fabric according to the present invention provides for a chain of warp threads in wool having a count of 3/48,000 or warp threads in cotton having a count of 4/43,000 picked with weft threads in weighted silk according to the weave in Figure 1.

The weft thread in weighted silk preferably has a denier count of 80/88. Obviously the use of pure, non-weighted silk could also be foreseen.

According to this first preferred example the number of weft threads inserted varies between 100 and 120, ideally around 110, per centimetre of fabric.

The Mogador fabric obtained in this way also has, due to the fact of having used large warp threads, a "cylinder" width which is substantially doubled compared to the Mogadortype fabric obtained by the previous method, thus obtaining a more flexible fabric which has an optical sensation of greater "fullness" of colour, and greater softness to the touch.

According to a further advantageous step of the present method, the fabric obtained in this way is subsequently subjected to an operation of surface burning so as to eliminate the "hairiness" of the fabric, and subsequent cold washing which washes away the residues of the burning and cools the fabric, avoiding excessive propagation of the surface burning.

Thus a further improvement in the optical and tactile effects is achieved, with the final fabric distinguished by even greater shine and softness to the touch.

As regards the picking of the non-slip weft thread, this can be performed, in addition to afterfourweft threads of the basicweave, also after 3, 5 or6 basicweftthreads.

The same procedure could have been implemented by using different weaves from that shown in Figure 1, for example of the type shown in Figure 5 or Figure 6.

More particularly in the case shown in Figures 5 and 6, Mogador type fabrics are no longer obtained, but instead fabrics which, although they no longer have the typical "cylinder" shapes of the Mogador fabric, have substantially the same characteristics of tactile pleasantness and softness.

It is obviously understood that what has been written and shown with reference to the preferred embodiments of the method and of the fabric of the present invention has been given purely by way of a nonlimiting example of the concept claimed.

Claims

1. - A method for the production of a fabric, in particular a Mogador type fabric, wherein warp threads in wool or in cotton are interwoven with weft threads in silk according to a predefined basic weave, in particular a weave for Mogador type fabric; characterised in that said warp threads in wool have a count of between 2/28,000 and 3/48,000 and said warp threads in cotton have a count of between 2/60,000 and 4/43,000.

2. - A method according to claim 1, in which from 90 to 130 picks of weft threads of said basicweave are performed per centimetre of the final fabric.

3. - A method according to any one of the previous claims, in which it provides, after weaving, for an operation of burning of the pile and an operation of cold washing.

4. - A method according to claim 1, in which it uses weft threads in pure orweighted silk.

5. - A method according to any one of the previous claims, in which that, after a predetermined number of picks of weft threads according to said basic weave, a non-slip weft thread is inserted.

6. - A fabric characterised in that it is produced with the method of any one of the previous claims and as therein before described with reference to and as illustrated in the accompanying drawings.