CN112501747A - Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof - Google Patents

Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112501747A
CN112501747A CN202011335962.4A CN202011335962A CN112501747A CN 112501747 A CN112501747 A CN 112501747A CN 202011335962 A CN202011335962 A CN 202011335962A CN 112501747 A CN112501747 A CN 112501747A
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fabric
yarns
warp
layer
bird
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CN202011335962.4A
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马昀
陈志华
姜生
瞿建新
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Abstract

The invention discloses a wool fabric with a crepe bird pattern and a production process thereof, wherein a single-layer tissue structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving Lycra yarns and other non-elastic yarns; the inner layer weave in the double-layer weave structure in the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns containing Lycra fibers; the surface layer weave is woven by non-elastic yarns, the weave is a plain weave, and the outline forms a bird-shaped pattern; after the fabric is off the machine, the tension is lost, the inner layer tissue containing the Lycra fiber shrinks at the position of the double-layer tissue, the bird-shaped pattern on the surface layer is raised, the three-dimensional effect is generated, and the wool fabric with the crinkled bird-shaped pattern is formed. In the position without patterns, the fabric weave structure is a single layer, and in the position with patterns, the fabric weave structure is a double layer; the layer changing tissue in the fabric is a changing double layer, and the outer contour line is a curve; the fabric breaks through the limitation of the two-dimensional space of the pattern in the fabric, and forms a three-dimensional stereoscopic plover lattice.

Description

Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of fabric weaving, and particularly relates to a wool fabric with a crinkled bird pattern and a production process thereof.
Background
The traditional fabric for the thousand-bird lattice is a classic pattern which is woven into the thousand-bird flying competition by combining twill weave and color matching pattern, and the pattern is a two-dimensional plane pattern. The design method comprises the steps of designing a locally-changed double-layer structure, weaving a fabric base into plain weave, weaving a surface layer into a bird-shaped pattern by non-elastic yarns, weaving an inner layer fabric into yarn containing lycra fibers, shrinking the inner layer fabric after the fabric is off-machine, and raising the surface layer fabric to form a three-dimensional bird competition flying pattern.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a wool fabric with a crepe bird pattern and a production process thereof.
The technical scheme is as follows: a wool fabric with a crepe bird-shaped pattern is characterized in that the weave structure of the fabric is as follows: part of the structure of the fabric is a single-layer structure, the other part of the structure is a double-layer structure, and a three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern is arranged at the double-layer structure;
the three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern adopts a locally-changed double-layer structure, a bird-shaped pattern is formed on the surface layer, the outer contour line of the pattern is not a straight line any more, and the bird-shaped pattern needs to be drawn according to the number of usable healds;
the single-layer weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving Lycra yarns and other non-elastic yarns;
the inner layer weave in the double-layer weave structure in the fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns containing Lycra fibers; the surface layer weave is woven by non-elastic yarns, the weave is a plain weave, and the outline forms a bird-shaped pattern;
after the fabric is off the machine, the tension is lost, the inner layer tissue containing lycra fibers shrinks at the position of the double-layer tissue, the bird-shaped pattern on the surface layer is raised, a three-dimensional effect is generated, and the wool fabric with a crinkled bird-shaped pattern is formed;
specifically, the organization chart of the bird-shaped pattern is depicted as follows:
(1) arrangement of dyed yarns:
forming a double-layer structure of a bird-shaped pattern, wherein warp yarns and weft yarns of the inner layer contain lycra fibers, and are arranged according to the proportion that surface layer warp yarns/inner layer warp yarns are 2/1 and surface layer weft yarns/inner layer weft yarns are 2/1;
(2) determining the number of dyed yarn cycles:
the shape of the bird-shaped pattern is determined by warp yarns and weft yarns of the inner layer, and when the inner layer yarns and the surface layer yarns are interwoven, the fabric forms a single-layer structure; when the inner layer yarn and the surface layer yarn are not interwoven, a double-layer structure is formed, and the surface layer of the double-layer structure is in a bird-shaped pattern;
the weave of the fabric on the middle surface layer is a plain weave, and occupies 2 pages of heald frames; the heald frame number of the multi-arm shedding mechanism is 16 pages, and 14 pages of healds can be used as lining fabric;
the back layer warp yarns are woven in a 14-page mode, and the arrangement ratio of the surface layer warp yarns to the back layer warp yarns is 2/1, so that 14 back layer warp yarns are arranged in the one-flower warp circulating loop; the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 2 times that of the inner layer warp yarns, the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 28, and the total number of one-flower warp yarn cycles is 42;
in order to make the pattern basically square, the weft density of the fabric is less than the warp density, and therefore the weft cycle number is less than the warp cycle number, the weft cycle number is determined to be 36 picks in combination with the color weft arrangement that the weft/weft ratio is 2/1, and the weft cycle number is a multiple of 3, wherein 24 picks are on the surface and 12 picks are on the back;
(3) drawing a double-layer fabric weave diagram:
the surface layer fabric weave and the inner layer fabric weave are both plain weaves, and a double-layer fabric weave diagram is drawn according to the surface warp/inner warp being 2/1 and the surface weft/inner weft being 2/1;
(4) drawing a bird-shaped pattern:
on the basis of plain double-layer weave, weave points are added to the inner layer warp yarns, so that part of the inner layer warp yarns are organized into a single-layer weave to form a weave pattern.
As an optimization: the warp and weft yarns are polyester-wool blended double-yarn with the yarn count of 82Nm/2, and the blending ratio of the white lycra blended yarn is as follows: the wool 44/terylene 54/lycra 2, the black non-elastic yarn is polyester-wool blended yarn, and the blending ratio is wool 45/terylene 55.
As an optimization: the tightness of the fabric was set to 130, and the fabric had both shape retention and flexibility.
As an optimization: according to the tightness of the fabric, by a formula: (warp density + weft density)/metric count1/2Calculated 130, we get: the warp density and the weft density are 832 pieces/10 cm, the warp density/the weft density of the fabric is 1.3/1, the warp density is controlled to be 470.3 pieces/10 cm through calculation, the weft density is controlled to be 361.7 pieces/10 cm, the warp density is set to be 472 pieces/10 cm after correction, and the weft density is set to be 362 pieces/10 cm;
the width of the one-flower fabric is equal to the number of warp yarns of one flower by 10/metric warp density by 42/metric warp density by 0.91cm, the height of the one-flower fabric is equal to the number of weft yarns of one flower by 10/metric weft density by 36 by 10/362 by 1cm, and the height of the bird-shaped pattern is slightly larger than the width.
As an optimization: the width of a finished product is 147.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 462 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 372 pieces/10 cm, the width of a loom reed is 192.5cm, the reed number is 59 teeth/10 cm, and each reed is 6; the total warp number is 6816, the full width is 161, and the edge yarn is 54; the yarn comprises 2254 white lycra yarns, 4508 black non-elastic yarns and 54 side yarns.
As an optimization: the fabric has the following colors: if the effect of the bird-shaped pattern is highlighted, the yarns with large color difference can be selected as the colors, and the two yarns with large color difference are interwoven together, so that the visual effect is more obvious, and the three-dimensional effect of the bird-shaped pattern can be highlighted.
As an optimization: the fabric adopts a classic color matching scheme of white-bottom black flowers, and has clear black and white, black bird-shaped patterns, lifelike and vivid effects and more stereoscopic effects.
The production process of the wool fabric with the crepe bird patterns comprises the following steps:
step one, a warping process: selecting a Beningge ZDA type warping machine for production; the warping speed is 690m/min, and tension setting is not carried out; when warping and beaming, warp yarns are fixed on the warp beam by using upper machine cloth, and three adhesive tapes are used for fixing the warp yarns and fixing the adhesive tapes on warp beam discs;
2254 white lycra yarns are integrated into 3 warp beams, and the warping distribution axis is 751 x 2+ 752;
4508+54 side yarns of the black yarn are integrated into 6 warp beams, and the warping distribution is 760 x 4+761 x 2;
step two, shaft combining: selecting an XB150 type parallel shaft for turning and parallel shaft, wherein the parallel shaft speed is 100m/min, and the parallel shaft tension is 100 kg;
step three, drafting: 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 4, 1, 2, 5, 1, 2, 6, 1, 2, 7, 1, 2, 8, 1, 2, 9, 1, 2, 10, 1, 2, 11, 1, 2, 12, 1, 2, 13, 1, 2, 14, 1, 2, 15, 1, 2, 16, 6 in per reed;
step four, weaving: the weaving adopts the process of 'early weft insertion, middle and rear beams, late rapier withdrawal and weft shrinkage prevention';
selection of a loom: selecting a K88 rapier loom for production, wherein the rotating speed of the rapier loom is 420 r/min;
early opening: the opening time is 300 degrees, and an early opening process is selected, so that the clear shed is facilitated;
middle and rear beams: determining the height of a selected middle back beam after test weaving;
number of waste selvage yarns: the number of the left-side waste selvage yarns is 16, and the number of the right-side waste selvage yarns is 20;
weft release length: the weft release length is controlled to be +3cm outside the waste selvage yarns;
and (3) quitting the sword time: the time for quitting the sword is 310 degrees.
Has the advantages that: the bird pattern designed by the invention mainly has the following innovation points: (1) the traditional bird pattern can only be woven by twill weave, and the bird pattern is woven by plain weave in the invention; (2) at the position without patterns, the fabric weave structure is a single layer, and at the position with patterns, the fabric weave structure is a double layer; (3) the outer contour of the double-layer tissue is different from the common layer-changing tissue. The outer contour line of the common layer-changing organization is a horizontal line or a vertical line, so that the design is easy and the number of used healds is small. The layer changing tissue in the fabric is a changing double layer, the outer contour line is a curve, and the design difficulty is high; (4) at the position of changing the double-layer structure, the surface layer is woven by common non-elastic yarn, the inner layer is yarn containing lycra fiber, after the fabric is off the machine, the inner layer fabric shrinks, the surface layer fabric rises to form three-dimensional crinkled huckle, the limitation of a two-dimensional space of a pattern in the fabric is broken through, and the three-dimensional stereoscopic huckle is formed.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic front pattern of a fabric of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic representation of the reverse side pattern of the face fabric of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a plain weave double layer weave of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic representation of a face fabric weave of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of a quad splice of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic illustration of a card of the face fabric of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
The warp and weft of the fabric provided by the invention are both provided with two systems of lycra elastic yarns and non-elastic yarns, and the fabric structure is single-layer and double-layer. Through the tissue design, the single layer is formed by interweaving yarns containing Lycra fibers and non-elastic yarns; the surface layer of the double-layer fabric is as follows: the non-elastic warp yarns and the non-elastic weft yarns are interwoven to form a bird-shaped pattern; the inner layer of the double-layer fabric is as follows: the yarn containing white lycra fibres is interwoven. After the fabric is off the machine, the inner layer tissue containing the white lycra yarns shrinks, the surface layer bird-shaped pattern containing no lycra yarns bulges to form a three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern, and the three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern has obvious three-dimensional characteristics.
1. Product design
1.1 characteristics of the product:
the basic organization of the bird-like pattern is different from the traditional thousand-bird grid pattern. The traditional plover lattice fabric is generally based on the twill fabrics of 2/2, 3/3, 4/4 and the like. 2/2 twill weave with color warp and color weft arranged as 4A and 4B; 3/3 twill weave with color warp and color weft arranged as 6A and 6B; 4/4 twill with color channels arranged as 8A and 8B, and color pattern to form a pattern for flying the chirons, wherein the pattern is a plane pattern.
The method has the advantages that the crepe bird patterns are developed, the basic structure of the fabric is plain weave, the structure is locally-changed double-layer structure, the bird-shaped patterns are three-dimensional, and the limitation of the patterns in two-dimensional space of the fabric is broken through. The front surface of the fabric is shown in figure 1; the reverse side of the fabric is shown in figure 2.
1.2 weave structure of the fabric:
part of the structure of the fabric is a single-layer structure, the other part of the structure is a double-layer structure, and a three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern is arranged at the position of the double-layer structure.
The general layer changing organization, the pattern appearance is the check or rectangle, because change few, use the comprehensive few, therefore the design is convenient, the layer changing is easy to realize. The bird-shaped pattern is formed by selecting a double-layer tissue with local change, the bird-shaped pattern is formed on the surface layer, and the outer contour line of the bird-shaped pattern is not straight any more, so that the design difficulty is high, and the bird-shaped pattern needs to be described according to the number of usable heald pages.
The bird-shaped pattern organization chart is drawn by the following steps:
1.2.1 arrangement of dyed yarns
The arrangement of the yarns directly determines the appearance effect of the fabric. The double-layer structure of the bird-shaped pattern is formed, the warp and weft yarns of the inner layer contain lycra fibers, so that the warp and weft density of the inner layer structure is preferably small but not large in order to enable the fabric to have larger elastic shrinkage, and the three-dimensional effect of the surface layer is poor due to the fact that the warp and weft density is large, the elastic shrinkage of the fabric is small; the surface layer part of the fabric is preferably made of high warp and weft density, because the warp and weft density is high, the appearance of the fabric is fine and exquisite, and the density of the surface layer tissue is preferably large or not small. For the above reasons, the surface layer warp yarn/inner layer warp yarn is 2/1, and the surface layer weft yarn/inner layer weft yarn is 2/1.
1.2.2 determination of the number of dyed yarn cycles
The shape of the bird-shaped pattern is determined by the warp and weft yarns of the inner layer. When the inner layer yarn and the surface layer yarn are interwoven, the fabric forms a single-layer structure; when the inner layer yarn and the surface layer yarn are not interwoven, a double-layer structure is formed, and the surface layer of the double-layer structure is in a bird-shaped pattern.
The surface layer fabric weave in the fabric is plain weave fabric, occupies 2 pages of heald frames. The heald frame number of the dobby shedding mechanism is 16 pages, and 14 pages of healds can be used as the lining fabric.
The back layer warp yarns are woven in a 14-page mode, and the arrangement ratio of the surface layer warp yarns to the back layer warp yarns is 2/1, so that 14 back layer warp yarns are arranged in the one-flower warp circulating loop; the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 2 times that of the inner layer warp yarns, the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 28, and the total number of the one-flower warp yarn cycles is 42.
In general, the weft density of the fabric is smaller than the warp density, and in order to make the pattern basically appear to be square, the number of weft cycles is smaller than that of warp cycles. The weft cycle number is determined to be 36 picks in combination with the color pick arrangement that the front pick/back pick is 2/1 and the weft cycle number is a multiple of 3, wherein the front pick is 24 picks and the back pick is 12 picks.
1.2.3 drawing a double-layer fabric weave diagram
The surface layer fabric weave and the inner layer fabric weave are both plain weaves, and a double-layer fabric weave is drawn according to a surface warp/inner warp ratio of 2/1 and a surface weft/inner weft ratio of 2/1, as shown in fig. 3, the two layers of fabrics in the picture have no joint.
1.2.4 drawing bird-shaped patterns
On the basis of the plain double-layer weave in FIG. 3, the back layer warp yarns are added with weave points, so that part of the warp yarns are organized into a single-layer weave, and the weave pattern 4 is formed. In fig. 4, the portion to which the blue tissue dots are added is a single-layer tissue, and the portion to which the blue tissue dots are not added is a double-layer tissue, and the surface contour curve of the double-layer tissue is in the shape of a bird.
To make the bird pattern clearer, four panels of the weave were joined together to form fig. 5.
1.3, three-dimensional effect of the fabric:
the single-layer structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving Lycra yarns and other non-elastic yarns.
In the double-layer structure of the fabric, the inner layer tissue is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns containing Lycra fibers. The surface layer weave is made of non-elastic yarn, the weave is a plain weave, and the outline forms a bird-shaped pattern.
After the fabric is off the machine, the tension is lost, the inner layer tissue containing the Lycra fiber shrinks at the position of the double-layer tissue, the bird-shaped pattern on the surface layer is raised, and the three-dimensional effect is generated.
1.4 the fabric has the following colors:
if the effect of the bird-shaped pattern is to be highlighted, yarns with large color difference can be selected as the colors. Two kinds of yarns with large color difference are interwoven together, the visual effect is more obvious, and the three-dimensional effect of the bird-shaped pattern can be more prominent. The fabric adopts a classic color matching scheme of white-bottom black flowers, and has clear black and white, black bird-shaped patterns, lifelike and vivid effects and more stereoscopic effects.
2. And (3) a machining process:
the warp and weft yarns are polyester-wool blended double-yarn with the yarn count of 82Nm/2, and the blending ratio of the white lycra blended yarn is as follows: the wool 44/terylene 54/lycra 2, the black non-elastic yarn is polyester-wool blended yarn, and the blending ratio is wool 45/terylene 55.
As a fly bird pattern wool fabric with leisure function, the tightness of the fabric is generally controlled between 120 and 135, the tightness is large, the fabric is firm and low in tightness, and the fabric feels soft. When the fabric is designed, the tightness of the fabric is set to 130, and the fabric has both shape retention and softness.
According to the tightness of the fabric, by a formula: (warp density + weft density)/metric count1/2Calculated 130, we get: the warp density and the weft density are 832 pieces/10 cm. The warp-weft density ratio is generally controlled between 1.25 and 1.35As a general matter, the warp density/weft density of the fabric is 1.3/1. The warp density is calculated to be controlled at 470.3 threads/10 cm, and the weft density is calculated to be controlled at 361.7 threads/10 cm. The corrected warp density was 472 threads/10 cm, and the weft density was 362 threads/10 cm.
The width of the one-flower fabric is equal to the number of warp yarns per one flower, 10 per metric system warp density, 42 per 10 per metric system warp density, 0.91 cm. The height of the one-flower fabric is 10 per one-flower weft yarn number and 36 per metric weft density 10/362 is 1 cm. The height of the bird-shaped pattern is slightly larger than the width, so that the idea of 'bird flying in sky height' can be reflected.
The width of the finished product is 147.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 462 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 372 pieces/10 cm, the width of the reed on the machine is 192.5cm, the reed number is 59 teeth/10 cm, and 6 reed entries are made per reed. The total warp number is 6816, the full width is 161, and the edge yarn is 54. The yarn comprises 2254 white lycra yarns, 4508 black non-elastic yarns and 54 side yarns. The fabric card pattern is shown in fig. 6.
3. The production key points are as follows:
3.1 warping process: selecting a Beningge ZDA type warping machine for production.
The warp is a folded yarn, the strength of a single yarn is higher, the warping speed is 690m/min by using higher speed warping, and tension setting is not carried out.
The white lycra yarn has elasticity, in order to prevent warp shrinkage and warp loosening or warp hanging defects, when warping and beaming, a warp beam needs to be fixed on the warp beam by using a piece of upper machine cloth, and when beaming, three adhesive tapes need to be used for fixing the warp, and meanwhile, the adhesive tapes need to be fixed on a warp beam disc.
2254 white lycra yarns are integrated into 3 beams, the warping axis is 751 x 2+752,
4508+54 side yarns of black yarn were integrated into 6 beams, with a beam distribution of 760 × 4+761 × 2
3.2 shaft combination: selecting XB150 type parallel shaft, turning and combining the shafts, wherein the speed of the shafts is 100m/min, and the tension of the shafts is 100 kg.
3.3 drafting: 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 4, 1, 2, 5, 1, 2, 6, 1, 2, 7, 1, 2, 8, 1, 2, 9, 1, 2, 10, 1, 2, 11, 1, 2, 12, 1, 2, 13, 1, 2, 14, 1, 2, 15, 1, 2, 16, 6 in per reed.
3.4 weaving: during production of the weft-wise elastic fabric, weft shrinkage weaving defects are most easily generated, and the weaving adopts a process of 'early weft insertion, middle and rear beam, late rapier withdrawal and weft shrinkage prevention'.
Selection of a loom: the warp and weft of the fabric are all provided with the Lycra fibers, the yarn resilience force is large, in order to reduce the generation of weft shrinkage weaving defects, a K88 type rapier loom with active weft insertion is selected for production, and the rotating speed of the loom is 420 r/min.
Early opening: the opening time was 300 °. The warp yarns are not subjected to a sizing process, and the hairiness of the yarns is not attached, so that the unclear shed is easily caused, and therefore, the early shedding process is selected, and the clear shed is facilitated.
Middle and rear beams: the back rest height is zero scale. The fabric uses 16 pages of heald frames, the heald frames are more, the shed is not easy to be clear, and a high back beam is not suitable to be used. The back beam height easily causes the warp of the upper shed to sink, causes the continuous warp stop, and influences production efficiency. The basic weave of the fabric is a plain weave, the number of interweaving times is large, the beating-up resistance is large, and a low back beam is not suitable for selection. After test weaving, the middle back beam height is determined to be suitable.
Number of waste selvage yarns: the number of the left-side waste selvage yarns is 16, and the number of the right-side waste selvage yarns is 20. The weft yarns contain the Lycra fibers, so that the weft shrinkage weaving defects are easily formed by shrinkage, and the waste selvage yarns are used in a large number, so that the waste selvage yarns have a large clamping force on the weft yarns, and the weft shrinkage weaving defects caused by the fact that the weft yarns are separated from the waste selvage yarns are prevented.
Weft release length: the weft yarn release length is controlled to be +3cm outside the waste selvage yarn. The weft yarn tail is long, so that the weft yarn is not easy to slip from the waste selvage yarn, and the selvage weft shrinkage weaving defects are reduced. The weft yarn tail is not suitable to be lengthened any more, the weft yarn tail is long, the broken filaments are increased, and the production cost is increased.
And (3) quitting the sword time: in the fabric, as the weft yarn containing lycra is easy to retract, in order to increase the clamping force of the warp yarn to the weft yarn and reduce the generation of weft shrinkage weaving defects, the rapier retracting time is delayed to 310 degrees, and when the weft yarn is released by a weft receiving rapier, the warp yarn generates a surrounding angle to the weft yarn, the clamping force of the warp yarn to the weft yarn is large, the weft yarn is difficult to retract, and the generation of the weft shrinkage weaving defects is reduced.
The bird pattern designed by the invention mainly has the following innovation points: (1) the traditional bird pattern can only be woven by twill weave, and the bird pattern is woven by plain weave in the invention; (2) at the position without patterns, the fabric weave structure is a single layer, and at the position with patterns, the fabric weave structure is a double layer; (3) the outer contour of the double-layer tissue is different from the common layer-changing tissue. The outer contour line of the common layer-changing organization is a horizontal line or a vertical line, so that the design is easy and the number of used healds is small. The layer changing tissue in the fabric is a changing double layer, the outer contour line is a curve, and the design difficulty is high; (4) at the position of changing the double-layer structure, the surface layer is woven by common non-elastic yarn, the inner layer is yarn containing lycra fiber, after the fabric is off the machine, the inner layer fabric shrinks, the surface layer fabric rises to form three-dimensional crinkled huckle, the limitation of a two-dimensional space of a pattern in the fabric is broken through, and the three-dimensional stereoscopic huckle is formed.

Claims (8)

1. The utility model provides a wool surface fabric of crinkled bird pattern which characterized in that: the weave structure of the fabric is as follows: part of the structure of the fabric is a single-layer structure, the other part of the structure is a double-layer structure, and a three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern is arranged at the double-layer structure;
the three-dimensional bird-shaped pattern adopts a locally-changed double-layer structure, a bird-shaped pattern is formed on the surface layer, the outer contour line of the pattern is not a straight line any more, and the bird-shaped pattern needs to be drawn according to the number of usable healds;
the single-layer weave structure of the fabric is formed by interweaving Lycra yarns and other non-elastic yarns;
in the double-layer weave structure in the fabric, the inner layer weave is formed by mutually interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns containing Lycra fibers; the surface layer weave is woven by non-elastic yarns, the weave is a plain weave, and the outline forms a bird-shaped pattern;
after the fabric is off the machine, the tension is lost, the inner layer tissue containing lycra fibers shrinks at the position of the double-layer tissue, the bird-shaped pattern on the surface layer is raised, a three-dimensional effect is generated, and the wool fabric with a crinkled bird-shaped pattern is formed;
specifically, the organization chart of the bird-shaped pattern is depicted as follows:
(1) arrangement of dyed yarns:
forming a double-layer structure of a bird-shaped pattern, wherein warp yarns and weft yarns of the inner layer contain lycra fibers, and are arranged according to the proportion that surface layer warp yarns/inner layer warp yarns are 2/1 and surface layer weft yarns/inner layer weft yarns are 2/1;
(2) determining the number of dyed yarn cycles:
the shape of the bird-shaped pattern is determined by warp yarns and weft yarns of the inner layer, and when the inner layer yarns and the surface layer yarns are interwoven, the fabric forms a single-layer structure; when the inner layer yarn and the surface layer yarn are not interwoven, a double-layer structure is formed, and the surface layer of the double-layer structure is in a bird-shaped pattern;
the fabric of the middle surface layer is a plain fabric, and occupies 2 pages of heald frames; the heald frame number of the multi-arm shedding mechanism is 16 pages, and 14 pages of healds can be used as lining fabric;
the back layer warp yarns are woven in a 14-page mode, and the arrangement ratio of the surface layer warp yarns to the back layer warp yarns is 2/1, so that 14 back layer warp yarns are arranged in the one-flower warp circulating loop; the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 2 times that of the inner layer warp yarns, the number of the surface layer warp yarns is 28, and the total number of one-flower warp yarn cycles is 42;
in order to make the pattern basically square, the weft density of the fabric is less than the warp density, and therefore the weft cycle number is less than the warp cycle number, the weft cycle number is determined to be 36 picks in combination with the color weft arrangement that the weft/weft ratio is 2/1, and the weft cycle number is a multiple of 3, wherein 24 picks are on the surface and 12 picks are on the back;
(3) drawing a double-layer fabric weave diagram:
the surface layer fabric weave and the inner layer fabric weave are both plain weaves, and a double-layer fabric weave diagram is drawn according to the surface warp/inner warp being 2/1 and the surface weft/inner weft being 2/1;
(4) drawing a bird-shaped pattern:
on the basis of plain double-layer weave, weave points are added to the inner layer warp yarns, so that part of the inner layer warp yarns are organized into a single-layer weave to form a weave pattern.
2. A creped bird pattern wool face material in accordance with claim 1, wherein: the warp and weft yarns are polyester-wool blended double-yarn with the yarn count of 82Nm/2, and the blending ratio of the white lycra blended yarn is as follows: the wool 44/terylene 54/lycra 2, the black non-elastic yarn is polyester-wool blended yarn, and the blending ratio is wool 45/terylene 55.
3. A creped bird pattern wool face material in accordance with claim 1, wherein: the tightness of the fabric was set to 130, and the fabric had both shape retention and flexibility.
4. A creped bird pattern wool face material in accordance with claim 1, wherein: according to the tightness of the fabric, by a formula: (warp density + weft density)/metric count1/2Calculated 130, we get: the warp density and the weft density are 832 pieces/10 cm, the warp density/the weft density of the fabric is 1.3/1, the warp density is controlled to be 470.3 pieces/10 cm through calculation, the weft density is controlled to be 361.7 pieces/10 cm, the warp density is set to be 472 pieces/10 cm after correction, and the weft density is set to be 362 pieces/10 cm;
the width of the one-flower fabric is equal to the number of warp yarns of one flower by 10/metric warp density by 42/metric warp density by 0.91cm, the height of the one-flower fabric is equal to the number of weft yarns of one flower by 10/metric weft density by 36 by 10/362 by 1cm, and the height of the bird-shaped pattern is slightly larger than the width.
5. The creped bird pattern wool face material of claim 4 further comprising: the width of a finished product is 147.5cm, the warp density of the finished product is 462 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 372 pieces/10 cm, the width of a loom reed is 192.5cm, the reed number is 59 teeth/10 cm, and each reed is 6; the total warp number is 6816, the full width is 161, and the edge yarn is 54; the yarn comprises 2254 white lycra yarns, 4508 black non-elastic yarns and 54 side yarns.
6. A creped bird pattern wool face material in accordance with claim 1, wherein: the fabric has the following colors: if the effect of the bird-shaped pattern is highlighted, the yarns with large color difference can be selected as the colors, and the two yarns with large color difference are interwoven together, so that the visual effect is more obvious, and the three-dimensional effect of the bird-shaped pattern can be highlighted.
7. The creped bird pattern wool face material of claim 6 wherein: the fabric adopts a classic color matching scheme of white-bottom black flowers, and has clear black and white, black bird-shaped patterns, lifelike and vivid effects and more stereoscopic effects.
8. A process for producing a creped bird patterned wool face fabric according to claim 1, characterised in that: the method comprises the following steps:
step one, a warping process: selecting a Beningge ZDA type warping machine for production; the warping speed is 690m/min, and tension setting is not carried out; when warping and beaming, warp yarns are fixed on the warp beam by using upper machine cloth, and three adhesive tapes are used for fixing the warp yarns and fixing the adhesive tapes on warp beam discs;
2254 white lycra yarns are integrated into 3 warp beams, and the warping distribution axis is 751 x 2+ 752;
4508+54 side yarns of the black yarn are integrated into 6 warp beams, and the warping distribution is 760 x 4+761 x 2;
step two, shaft combining: selecting an XB150 type parallel shaft for turning and parallel shaft, wherein the parallel shaft speed is 100m/min, and the parallel shaft tension is 100 kg;
step three, drafting: 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 4, 1, 2, 5, 1, 2, 6, 1, 2, 7, 1, 2, 8, 1, 2, 9, 1, 2, 10, 1, 2, 11, 1, 2, 12, 1, 2, 13, 1, 2, 14, 1, 2, 15, 1, 2, 16, 6 in per reed;
step four, weaving: the weaving adopts the process of 'early weft insertion, middle and rear beams, late rapier withdrawal and weft shrinkage prevention';
selection of a loom: selecting a K88 rapier loom for production, wherein the rotating speed of the rapier loom is 420 r/min;
early opening: the opening time is 300 degrees, and an early opening process is selected, so that the clear shed is facilitated;
middle and rear beams: determining the height of a selected middle back beam after test weaving;
number of waste selvage yarns: the number of the left-side waste selvage yarns is 16, and the number of the right-side waste selvage yarns is 20;
weft release length: the weft release length is controlled to be +3cm outside the waste selvage yarns;
and (3) quitting the sword time: the time for quitting the sword is 310 degrees.
CN202011335962.4A 2020-11-25 2020-11-25 Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof Withdrawn CN112501747A (en)

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CN202011335962.4A CN112501747A (en) 2020-11-25 2020-11-25 Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202011335962.4A CN112501747A (en) 2020-11-25 2020-11-25 Wool fabric with crinkled bird patterns and production process thereof

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Application publication date: 20210316