FR3143337A1 - Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative - Google Patents
Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3143337A1 FR3143337A1 FR2213760A FR2213760A FR3143337A1 FR 3143337 A1 FR3143337 A1 FR 3143337A1 FR 2213760 A FR2213760 A FR 2213760A FR 2213760 A FR2213760 A FR 2213760A FR 3143337 A1 FR3143337 A1 FR 3143337A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- weight
- monoglyceride
- glycoside
- total weight
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 104
- 229930182476 C-glycoside Natural products 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 150000000700 C-glycosides Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-yl formate Chemical compound OCC(CO)OC=O LDVVTQMJQSCDMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 150000001860 citric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 20
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerol Natural products OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 15
- KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5r)-2-(2-hydroxypropyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound CC(O)C[C@@H]1OC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 12
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- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- -1 glycerol ester Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N D-xylopyranose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1COC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000012453 solvate Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-D-Pyranose-Lyxose Natural products OC1COC(O)C(O)C1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
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- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011149 active material Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000004677 hydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-mannomethylose Natural products CC1OC(O)C(O)C(O)C1O SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 5
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 5
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- WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N Glucose Natural products OC[C@H]1OC(O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O WQZGKKKJIJFFOK-GASJEMHNSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-PQMKYFCFSA-N L-Fucose Natural products C[C@H]1O[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-PQMKYFCFSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-DHVFOXMCSA-N L-fucopyranose Chemical compound C[C@@H]1OC(O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-DHVFOXMCSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- OGBUMNBNEWYMNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N batilol Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCC(O)CO OGBUMNBNEWYMNJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 3
- 229950006780 n-acetylglucosamine Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
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- HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N [(2e)-2-[[4-[(e)-[7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-(sulfomethyl)-2-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanylidene]methyl]phenyl]methylidene]-7,7-dimethyl-3-oxo-4-bicyclo[2.2.1]heptanyl]methanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CC1(C)C2CCC1(CS(O)(=O)=O)C(=O)\C2=C\C(C=C1)=CC=C1\C=C/1C(=O)C2(CS(O)(=O)=O)CCC\1C2(C)C HEAHZSUCFKFERC-IWGRKNQJSA-N 0.000 description 7
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- 150000001875 compounds Chemical group 0.000 description 7
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- 229940043268 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane Drugs 0.000 description 4
- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000003712 anti-aging effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopentadecane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C KUVMKLCGXIYSNH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- NKEQOUMMGPBKMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxy-2-[2-(2-hydroxy-3-octadecanoyloxypropoxy)-2-oxoethyl]butanedioic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)COC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O NKEQOUMMGPBKMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Composition cosmétique stable contenant un monoglycéride un dérivé d’acide citrique et un dérivé C-glycoside L’invention concerne une composition, notamment composition cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend au moins un monoglycéride et au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside de formule générale (I), de l’eau à teneur d’au moins 55% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L’invention concerne encore un procédé de traitement cosmétique mettant en œuvre la composition de l’invention Figure NEANTStable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative. The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one monoglyceride and at least one citric acid derivative, at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (I), water containing at least 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process using the composition of the invention Figure NONE
Description
L’invention concerne une composition, de préférence cosmétique, comprenant au moins un monoglycéride, au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, et au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside. L’invention concerne en particulier une composition, de préférence cosmétique, comprenant au moins un monoglycéride, au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside, et de l’eau à une teneur d’au moins 55% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, and at least one C-glycoside derivative. The invention relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, at least one C-glycoside derivative, and water at a content of at least 55 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les dérivés de C-glycosides sont d’un grand intérêt, étant donné leurs effets biologiques sur la peau, notamment sur les signes du vieillissement cutané que sont les ridules et rides. Cependant ces actifs anti-âges peuvent être difficiles à formules notamment dans des systèmes complexes tels que les phases lamellaires.C-glycoside derivatives are of great interest, given their biological effects on the skin, particularly on the signs of skin aging such as fine lines and wrinkles. However, these anti-aging active ingredients can be difficult to formulate, particularly in complex systems such as lamellar phases.
Il existe donc un besoin de compositions notamment cosmétiques, stables, et qui soient aptes à véhiculer des concentrations pouvant être élevées en dérivés C-glycosides tout en présentant des caractéristiques sensorielles dans les codes du soin.There is therefore a need for compositions, particularly cosmetic, stable, and which are capable of conveying concentrations which can be high in C-glycoside derivatives while presenting sensory characteristics in the care codes.
Il serait donc particulièrement intéressant de pouvoir maximaliser la performance des dérivés de de C-glycosides, notamment en disposant de formules galéniques concentrées en cet actif qui présentent de bonnes qualités cosmétiques, telles que lors de l’application un bon étalement et non collant, avec un fini peau non collant et non brillantIt would therefore be particularly interesting to be able to maximize the performance of C-glycoside derivatives, in particular by having galenic formulas concentrated in this active ingredient which have good cosmetic qualities, such as good spreading and non-sticky properties during application, with a non-sticky and non-shiny skin finish
Il existe également un besoin de compositions en dérivés C-glycosides qui s’avèrent stables dans le temps.There is also a need for compositions of C-glycoside derivatives which prove to be stable over time.
La présente invention a précisément pour objet de proposer une nouvelle formulation galénique des dérivés de C-glycoside permettant de répondre aux attentes précitées.The object of the present invention is precisely to propose a new galenic formulation of C-glycoside derivatives making it possible to meet the aforementioned expectations.
De façon plus précise, l’invention a pour objet une composition, notamment cosmétique, comprenant au moins un monoglycéride, au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, et au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside.More precisely, the invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one monoglyceride, at least one citric acid derivative, and at least one C-glycoside derivative.
La présente invention concerne particulièrement une composition, notamment cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend ;
The present invention particularly relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises;
- au moins un monoglycéride ;
- at least one monoglyceride;
- au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, en particulier ses esters, ses sels, et leur(s) mélange(s);
- at least one citric acid derivative, in particular its esters, its salts, and their mixture(s);
- au moins un dérivé C-glycoside de formule générale (I) suivante :- at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I):
dans laquelle :
in which :
- R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire non substitué en C1-C4, notamment en C1-C2, en particulier le méthyle ;
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 , in particular in C 1 -C 2 , in particular methyl;
- S représente un monosaccharide choisi parmi le D-glucose, le D-xylose, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine ou le L-fucose, et en particulier le D-xylose ;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X représente un groupement choisi parmi -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, et préférentiellement un groupement –CH(OH)- ;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;
ainsi que ses sels cosmétiquement acceptables, ses solvates tels que les hydrates et ses isomères optiques ; et
as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and its optical isomers; And
- au moins 55% en poids d’eau par rapport au poids total de la composition.- at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Avantageusement, la composition comprend une phase aqueuse.Advantageously, the composition comprises an aqueous phase.
La composition selon l’invention comprend au moins 55% en poids d’eau par rapport au poids total de la composition.The composition according to the invention comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
De préférence, une composition selon l‘invention contient une phase coagel.Preferably, a composition according to the invention contains a coagel phase.
Les systèmes aqueux basés sur l’association de monoglycéride et d’un tensioactif sont de type coagels, coagels sont utilisés en alimentaires depuis quelques années pour faire des margarines allégées. Un coagel comprend généralement une matrice tridimensionnelle renfermant une phase continue aqueuse. Un coagel est un systéme complexe généralement constitué de cristaux de corps gras percolés dans une phase aqueuse. Une telle architecture tridimensionnelle peut contenir jusqu’à 98 % d’une phase aqueuse.Aqueous systems based on the combination of monoglyceride and a surfactant are of the coagels type, coagels have been used in food for several years to make low-fat margarines. A coagel generally comprises a three-dimensional matrix containing a continuous aqueous phase. A coagel is a complex system generally made up of crystals of fatty substances percolated in an aqueous phase. Such a three-dimensional architecture can contain up to 98% of an aqueous phase.
Ces systèmes ont fait l’objet d’études structurales importantes. On peut citer entre autres les articles suivants : Liquid Crystalline Phases in the Structuring of Food Products, 1998, Lebensmittel-Wissenschaft und-technologie, 31, 387-396 ; Investigation of the Gel to Coagel Phase Transition in Monoglycéride-Water Systems (Langmuir 1998, 14, 5757-5763) ; Lipid organization and dynamics of the monostearoylglycerol-water system. A 2H NMR study (Chemistry and Physics of lipids 109 (2001) 15-28) ; Rheological Characterization, Crystallization, and Gelation, Behavior of Monoglycéride Gels (Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 249, (2002) 412-422).These systems have been the subject of significant structural studies. We can cite, among others, the following articles: Liquid Crystalline Phases in the Structuring of Food Products, 1998, Lebensmittel-Wissenschaft und-technologie, 31, 387-396; Investigation of the Gel to Coagel Phase Transition in Monoglyceride-Water Systems (Langmuir 1998, 14, 5757-5763); Lipid organization and dynamics of the monostearoylglycerol-water system. A 2H NMR study (Chemistry and Physics of lipids 109 (2001) 15-28); Rheological Characterization, Crystallization, and Gelation, Behavior of Monoglyceride Gels (Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 249, (2002) 412-422).
La composition ainsi obtenue est stable au stockage. Par exemple, on n’observe pas de modifications microscopique et macroscopique au bout de deux mois à température ambiante et en conservation à 45°C. Par ailleurs, la composition présente de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, notamment une bonne sensorialité et une bon effet anti-âge de la peau.The composition thus obtained is stable on storage. For example, no microscopic and macroscopic changes are observed after two months at room temperature and in storage at 45°C. Furthermore, the composition has good cosmetic properties, in particular good sensoriality and a good anti-aging effect on the skin.
Par ailleurs, la présente invention permet d’augmenter la quantité en dérivés de dérivé C-glycosides introduite dans les compositions cosmétiques.Furthermore, the present invention makes it possible to increase the quantity of C-glycoside derivatives introduced into cosmetic compositions.
Les compositions selon l’invention se présentent de préférence sous la forme de crèmes, de mousses, ou de sticks. Il est important de remarquer que les compositions selon l’invention, si elles ont l’aspect de crèmes cosmétiques ont, quand on les observe au microscope, une structure différente des émulsions classiques caractérisées par exemple par un tapis régulier de gouttelettes. Les compositions selon l’invention se caractérisent notamment par un aspect fortement biréfringent en lumière polarisée typique de leur nature semi cristalline.The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of creams, mousses, or sticks. It is important to note that the compositions according to the invention, although they have the appearance of cosmetic creams, have, when observed under a microscope, a structure different from conventional emulsions characterized for example by a regular carpet of droplets. The compositions according to the invention are characterized in particular by a strongly birefringent appearance in polarized light typical of their semi-crystalline nature.
Cette structure semi-cristalline peut notamment être caractérisée par diffraction des rayons X à une température inférieure à la température de fusion des phases lamellaires. Cette technique est bien connue par l’homme de l’art et largement décrite dans la littérature.This semi-crystalline structure can in particular be characterized by X-ray diffraction at a temperature lower than the melting temperature of the lamellar phases. This technique is well known to those skilled in the art and widely described in the literature.
La composition selon l'invention est destinée à une application topique et contient donc un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. On entend ici par « milieu physiologiquement acceptable » un milieu compatible avec les matières kératiniques.The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here we mean “physiologically acceptable medium” a medium compatible with keratin materials.
Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend notamment par « matière kératinique » la peau, le cuir chevelu, les fibres kératiniques telles que les cils, les sourcils, les cheveux, et les poils, les ongles, les muqueuses telles que les lèvres, et plus particulièrement la peau (corps, visage, contour des yeux, paupières).In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood in particular to mean skin, scalp, keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips. , and more particularly the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids).
Dans ce qui va suivre, l’expression « au moins un(e) » est équivalente à « un(e) ou plusieurs » et, à moins d’une autre indication, les bornes d’un domaine de valeurs sont comprises dans ce domaine.In what follows, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain.
Les pourcentages des constituants sont exprimés en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, sauf indication contraire.The percentages of the constituents are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
Un monoglycéride, ou monoacylglycérol (MAG), est un glycéride formé d’un résidu d’acide gras combiné à un résidu de glycérol par une liaison ester. On peut les classer en deux groupes, les 1-monoacyglycérols et les 2-monoacylglycérols selon que le groupe acyle est en position 1 ou 2 du résidu glycérol.
A monoglyceride, or monoacylglycerol (MAG), is a glyceride formed from a fatty acid residue combined with a glycerol residue by an ester bond. They can be classified into two groups, 1-monoacyglycerols and 2-monoacylglycerols depending on whether the acyl group is in position 1 or 2 of the glycerol residue.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition comprend à titre de monoglycéride un ou plusieurs monoglycérides comprenant une chaine alkyl, saturée ou insaturée, comprenant de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises, as monoglyceride, one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
De préférence, le monoglycéride comprend une chaine alkyl, saturée ou insaturée, comprenant 16 ou 18 atomes de carbone.
Preferably, the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.
Dans le cas présent, on s’intéresse tout particulièrement au 1-monoacylglycérols, comme ceux de formule suivante (exemple en C18) :
In the present case, we are particularly interested in 1-monoacylglycerols, such as those of the following formula (example at C18):
La longueur de la chaine d’acide gras peut aller de C12 à C22 préférentiellement on choisit les esters de monoglycérides en C16 ou C18.
The length of the fatty acid chain can range from C12 to C22, preferably C16 or C18 monoglyceride esters are chosen.
La matière première utilisée est importante en ce sens que les monoglycérides utilisés permettent de former une phase coagel. En particulier on utilise des monoglycérides contenant moins de 10% de di-glycérides résiduels. On utilise de préférence des stéarates de monoglycérides, par exemple commercialisés sous la dénomination DIMODAN HP par la société DANISCO, ou ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination TEGIN 90 par la société EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
The raw material used is important in the sense that the monoglycerides used make it possible to form a coagel phase. In particular, monoglycerides containing less than 10% of residual di-glycerides are used. Monoglyceride stearates are preferably used, for example marketed under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those marketed under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
La teneur en monoglycérides des formulations selon l’invention va de 1% à 20%, préférentiellement de 2 à 10% et très préférentiellement de 3 à 8% en masse par rapport à la masse totale de ladite composition.
The monoglyceride content of the formulations according to the invention ranges from 1% to 20%, preferably from 2 to 10% and very preferably from 3 to 8% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
Tensioactif avec dérivé(s) d’acide citrique, ses sels, ses estersSurfactant with citric acid derivative(s), its salts, its esters
Le système émulsionnant de la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, ses sels et ses esters. Les dérivés d’acide citrique comprenant au moins une chaîne grasse 30 hydrocarbonée linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou insaturée, comprenant de 10 à 30 17 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, mieux de 14 à 22 atomes de carbone, mieux de 16 à 20 atomes de carbone, et encore mieux 18 atomes de carbone, et les sels inorganiques, tels que de métaux alcalins, de métaux alcalino terreux, les sels organiques, et leur(s) mélange(s). 5 Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, le (les) dérivés d’acide citrique comprend (comprennent) les esters issus de la réaction d’un acide citrique, d’un ester de glycérol et d’au moins un acide gras, avec le (les) acide gras comprenant de 7 à 24 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, mieux de 16 à 18 atomes de carbone.
The emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one citric acid derivative, its salts and its esters. Citric acid derivatives comprising at least one linear or branched hydrocarbon fatty chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms , better from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and even better 18 carbon atoms, and inorganic salts, such as alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, organic salts, and their mixture(s). 5 According to a preferred embodiment, the citric acid derivative(s) comprises the esters resulting from the reaction of a citric acid, a glycerol ester and at least one fatty acid, with the (the) fatty acid comprising from 7 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, better still from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
De préférence, l’ester de glycérol et d’acide gras est un monoester. De préférence, l’acide gras est l’acide stéarique. Le dérivé d’acide citrique est préférentiellement le composé portant le nom INCI glyceryl stearate citrate qui est l’ester issu de la réaction d’acide citrique et d’un monoester de glycérol et d’acide stéarique (glyceryl stearate). 15 A titre de référence commerciale, on peut citer le glyceryl stearate citrate commercialisé par la société Karlshamns sous le nom Akoline LC, ou par la société Degussa ou Evonik sous le nom Axol C 62. On peut en outre citer les mélanges commerciaux contenant ce composé, tels que les Ceralution C et Ceralution H de la société Sasol Germany Gmbh ou le Tocomix D de chez Jan Dekker. 20
Preferably, the glycerol fatty acid ester is a monoester. Preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid. The citric acid derivative is preferably the compound bearing the INCI name glyceryl stearate citrate which is the ester resulting from the reaction of citric acid and a monoester of glycerol and stearic acid (glyceryl stearate). 15 As a commercial reference, we can cite glyceryl stearate citrate marketed by the company Karlshamns under the name Akoline LC, or by the company Degussa or Evonik under the name Axol C 62. We can also cite the commercial mixtures containing this compound , such as Ceralution C and Ceralution H from Sasol Germany GmbH or Tocomix D from Jan Dekker. 20
La teneur en dérivé(s) d’acide citrique, ses sels et ou ses esters des formulations selon l’invention va de 0,02 % à 2 %, préférentiellement de 0.05 à 1%, et très préférentiellement de 0,1 à 0,3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The content of citric acid derivative(s), its salts and/or its esters of the formulations according to the invention ranges from 0.02% to 2%, preferably from 0.05 to 1%, and very preferably from 0.1 to 0. .3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l’invention comprenant au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside de formule générale (I) suivante :The composition according to the invention comprising at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I):
dans laquelle :
- R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire non substitué en C1-C4, notamment en C1-C2, en particulier le méthyle ;
- S représente un monosaccharide choisi parmi le D-glucose, le D-xylose, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine ou le L-fucose, et en particulier le D-xylose ;
- X représente un groupement choisi parmi -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, et préférentiellement un groupement –CH(OH)- ;
in which :
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, in particular C 1 -C 2 , in particular methyl;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;
A titre illustratif et non limitatif des C-glycoside de formule (I) convenant plus particulièrement à l’invention, on peut notamment citer les composés suivants :
- le C-béta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one ;
- le C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one ;
- le C-béta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ;
- le C-alpha- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ;
- 1-(C-béta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ;
- 1-(C-béta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ;
- 3'-(acétamido-C-béta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one ;
- 3'-(acétamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one ;
- 1-( acétamido-C-béta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane ;
- 1-( acétamido-C-béta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ;
- ainsi que leurs sels cosmétiquement acceptables, leurs solvates tels que les hydrates et leurs isomères optiques.
By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycosides of formula (I) which are more particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may in particular be cited:
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
- C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
- 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
- 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
- as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.
Les solvates acceptables pour les composés décrits ci-dessus comprennent des solvates conventionnels tels que ceux formés lors de la dernière étape de préparation desdits composés du fait de la présence de solvants. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les solvates dus à la présence d'eau ou d'alcools linéaires ou ramifiés comme l'éthanol ou l'isopropanol.
Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. As an example, we can cite solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.
Les C-glycosides (I) sont connus du document WO 02/051828.
The C-glycosides (I) are known from document WO 02/051828.
Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention comprend un C-glycoside, de préférence le C béta D xylopyranoside 2 hydroxy propane, en quantité comprise entre 0,03% et 10,5% en poids de matière active (C-glycoside) par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier entre 0,17 % et 5,25 % en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus particulièrement entre 0,52 % et 3,5 % en poids de matière active par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C beta D xylopyranoside 2 hydroxy propane, in an amount between 0.03% and 10.5% by weight of active material (C- glycoside) relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.17% and 5.25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.52% and 3.5% in weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l’invention comprend une phase aqueuse, et comprend au moins 55% en poids d’eau par rapport au poids total de la composition.The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, and comprises at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition conforme à l’invention comprend une teneur en eau de 55% à 75% en poids, de préférence de 55% à 70% en poids, plus particulièrement de 59% à 65% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a water content of 55% to 75% by weight, preferably from 55% to 70% by weight, more particularly from 59% to 65% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.
L'eau utilisée peut être de l'eau déminéralisée stérile et/ou une eau florale telle que de l'eau de rose, de l'eau de bleuet, de l'eau de camomille ou de l'eau de tilleul, et/ou une eau thermale ou minérale naturelle, comme par exemple : l’eau de Vittel, les eaux du bassin de Vichy, l’eau d’Uriage, l’eau de la Roche Posay, l’eau de la Bourboule, l’eau d’Enghien-les-Bains, l’eau de Saint Gervais-les-Bains, l’eau de Néris-les-Bains, l’eau d’Allevar-les-Bains, l’eau de Digne, l’eau de Maizières, l’eau de Neyrac-les-Bains, l’eau de Lons-le-Saunier, les Eaux Bonnes, l’eau de Rochefort, l’eau de Saint Christau, l’eau des Fumades et l’eau de Tercis-les-bains, l’eau d’Avene. La phase aqueuse peut comprendre aussi de l'eau thermale reconstituée, c'est-à-dire une eau contenant des oligoéléments tels que zinc, cuivre, magnésium, etc.., reconstituant les caractéristiques d'une eau thermale.The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/ or natural thermal or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades and water from Tercis -les-bains, Avene water. The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.
La phase aqueuse (ou hydrophile) de la composition selon l’invention peut en outre contenir tout additif hydrosoluble ou hydrodispersible. Comme additifs hydrosolubles, on peut citer notamment les polyols comprenant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone. Par « polyols », il faut comprendre toute molécule organique comportant au moins deux groupements hydroxyle libres. Comme polyols, on peut citer par exemple la glycérine, les glycols comme le butylène glycol, le propylène glycol, l’isoprène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, les polyéthylènes glycols, le polypropylène glycol. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, le polyol est choisi parmi la glycérine et l'hexylène glycol. De préférence, le polyol est la glycérine.The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. As water-soluble additives, mention may in particular be made of polyols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. By “polyols” is meant any organic molecule containing at least two free hydroxyl groups. As polyols, we can cite for example glycerin, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is chosen from glycerin and hexylene glycol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin.
Comme additifs hydrosolubles, on peut citer aussi les alcools primaires, c’est-à-dire un alcool comportant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, tel que l'éthanol et l’isopropanol. Il s'agit de préférence de l'éthanol. L'ajout d'un tel alcool peut être notamment approprié lorsque la composition selon l'invention est utilisée comme produit pour le corps ou les cheveux.As water-soluble additives, we can also cite primary alcohols, that is to say an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or hair.
La quantité en additifs hydrosolubles ou hydrodispersibles dans la composition de l’invention peut aller par exemple de 0 à 50 % en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 30 % en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The quantity of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range for example from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, la composition présente un pH compris entre 4 et 6, idéalement proche de 5, ce qui permet d’optimiser sa stabilité.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH of between 4 and 6, ideally close to 5, which makes it possible to optimize its stability.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, la composition comprend au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile. On utilisera notamment des gélifiants et structurants aqueux classiquement utilisés par l’homme du métier. Ces gélifiants peuvent être particulaires ou non, synthétiques ou d’origine naturelle.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. In particular, aqueous gelling agents and structuring agents conventionally used by those skilled in the art will be used. These gelling agents may be particulate or not, synthetic or of natural origin.
Comme agent gélifiant hydrophile, on peut citer par exemple les polymères carboxyvinyliques tels que les Carbopols (Carbomers) et les Pemulen (Copolymère acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate) ; les polyacrylamides comme par exemple les copolymères réticulés vendus sous les noms Sepigel 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) ou Simulgel 600 (nom C.T.F.A. : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) par la société Seppic ; les polymères et copolymères d’acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société CLARIANT sous la dénomination commerciale « Hostacerin AMPS » (nom CTFA : ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) ou le SIMULGEL 800 commercialisé par la société SEPPIC (nom CTFA : sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate) ; les copolymères d’acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique et d’hydroxyethyl acrylate comme le SIMULGEL NS et le SEPINOV EMT 10 commercialisés par la société SEPPIC ; les dérivés cellulosiques tels que l’hydroxyéthylcellulose ; les polysaccharides et notamment les gommes telles que la gomme de xanthane ; et leurs mélanges.As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (Acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides such as for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company CLARIANT under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS” (name CTFA: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800 marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.
Selon un mode de réalisation, l’agent gélifiant hydrophile comprend au moins de la gomme xanthane.According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least xanthan gum.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’agent gélifiant hydrophile comprend au moins un copolymère acrylamide/acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonate de sodium, éventuellement en émulsion inverse. On peut utiliser une émulsion inverse telle que le Simulgel 600 (nom INCI. : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) par la société Seppic.According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least one acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymer, optionally in inverse emulsion. An inverse emulsion can be used such as Simulgel 600 (INCI name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic.
Selon un mode de réalisation, l’agent gélifiant hydrophile est un mélange d’un ou plusieurs des composés listés ci-dessus.According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture of one or more of the compounds listed above.
Selon un mode de réalisation, l’agent gélifiant hydrophile est choisi parmi la gomme xanthane, les copolymères d’acrylamide et acryloyldimethyltaurate de sodium et l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges.According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, copolymers of acrylamide and sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate and any of their mixtures.
Selon un mode de réalisation, la teneur en matière active de l’agent gélifiant hydrophile va de 0,1 % à 5 %, avantageusement de 1 % à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to one embodiment, the active material content of the hydrophilic gelling agent ranges from 0.1% to 5%, advantageously from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, la composition comprend moins de 2% en poids de matières premières siliconées ou silicone par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier ne comprennent pas de matières premières siliconées ou silicone, notamment choisies parmi
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of silicone or silicone raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular does not include silicone or silicone raw materials, in particular chosen from
DIMETHICONE ; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; POLYSILICONE-11; CYCLOHEXASILOXANE; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL; et/ ou CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE.DIMETHICONE; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER; POLYSILICONE-11; CYCLOHEXASILOXANE; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONOL; and/or CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE.
Dans un mode alternatif de réalisation de l’invention, la composition comprend en outre une ou plusieurs charges minérales et/ou un ou plusieurs pigments enrobés.In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more mineral fillers and/or one or more coated pigments.
Les pigments et/ou charges minérales utilisés selon l’invention sont traités en surface, totalement ou partiellement, par au moins un agent de traitement hydrophobe.The pigments and/or mineral fillers used according to the invention are surface treated, totally or partially, with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
Au sens de l’invention, le traitement de surface d’un pigment et/ou charge minérale désigne de manière générale le traitement en surface total ou partiel par un agent de surface, absorbé, adsorbé, ou greffé sur ledit pigment et/ou charge minérale. Les pigments et/ou charges minérales traités en surface peuvent être préparés selon des techniques de traitement de surface de nature chimique, électronique, mécano-chimique ou mécanique bien connues de l’homme de l’art. On peut également utiliser des produits commerciaux. L’agent de surface peut être absorbé, adsorbé ou greffé sur les pigments et/ou charges minérales par évaporation de solvant, réaction chimique et/ou création d’une liaison covalente.For the purposes of the invention, the surface treatment of a pigment and/or mineral filler generally designates the total or partial surface treatment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment and/or filler. mineral. The surface-treated pigments and/or mineral fillers can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto pigments and/or mineral fillers by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and/or creation of a covalent bond.
La teneur en charges minérales et/ou pigments enrobés peut avantageusement aller de 0,1% à 4% en masse, de préférence de 0,2% à 3% en masse par rapport à la masse totale de ladite composition.
The content of coated mineral fillers and/or pigments can advantageously range from 0.1% to 4% by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by mass relative to the total mass of said composition.
Phase huileuseOily phase
La composition selon l’invention peut comprendre également une phase huileuse.The composition according to the invention may also comprise an oily phase.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre au moins une huile choisie parmi:
According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from:
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène (ou squalane) ;
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane);
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Cremer Oleo, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité ;
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides from caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Cremer Oleo, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d’un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l’huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d’isopropyle, le palmitate d’éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d’octyl-2-dodécyle, l’érucate d’octyl-2-dodécyle, l’isostéarate d’isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l’isostéaryl lactate, l’octylhydroxystéarate, l’hydroxystéarate d’octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrytyle ;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d’origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles minérales (mélange d'huiles hydrocarbonées dérivées du pétrole ; nom INCI : Mineral oil), les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, l'isohexadécane, l'isododécane, l'isoparaffine hydrogéné tel que l’huile de Parléam® commercialisée par la société NOF Corporation (nom INCI ; Hydrogenated Polyisobutene) ;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of hydrocarbon oils derived from petroleum; INCI name: Mineral oil), paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parléam® oil marketed by the company NOF Corporation (INCI name; Hydrogenated Polyisobutene);
- les huiles fluorées telles que celles partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912 ;
- fluorinated oils such as those partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;
- les éthers tels que l’éther dicaprylique (nom CTFA : Dicaprylyl ether) ; et les benzoates d'alcools gras en C12-C15 (Finsolv TN de FINETEX) ;
- ethers such as dicapryl ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); and C12-C15 fatty alcohol benzoates (Finsolv TN from FINETEX);
- leurs mélanges.- their mixtures.
Une certaine quantité d’huile peut être introduite dans les compositions selon l’invention.
A certain quantity of oil can be introduced into the compositions according to the invention.
On peut utiliser une ou plusieurs huiles couramment utilisées en cosmétique, notamment choisies parmi une huile minérale, végétale.
One or more oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used, in particular chosen from a mineral or vegetable oil.
De préférence le ou les huiles sont présentes dans une teneur totale allant de 0,5 à 35 % en masse par rapport à la masse de la composition totale.
Preferably the oil(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5 to 35% by mass relative to the mass of the total composition.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l’invention peuvent contenir les ingrédients ou additifs habituels en cosmétiques : pigments, colorants, actifs biologiques (agents anti-âge, anti-peau grasse, anti-transpirant, anti-oxydants, etc.), filtres solaires, polymères filmogènes, charges diffusantes, huiles et corps gras, hydratants, émollients, et l’une quelconque de leurs combinaisons.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain the usual cosmetic ingredients or additives: pigments, dyes, biological active ingredients (anti-aging agents, anti-oily skin, antiperspirant, antioxidants, etc.), sun filters, polymers. film formers, diffusing fillers, oils and fatty substances, moisturizers, emollients, and any combination thereof.
L’invention concerne aussi un procédé de traitement cosmétique non-thérapeutique dans lequel on applique une composition selon l’invention telle que définie haut sur les matières kératiniques, et en particulier sur la peau.
The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process in which a composition according to the invention as defined above is applied to keratin materials, and in particular to the skin.
Les exemples qui suivent permettront de mieux comprendre l’invention, sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif. Les matières premières sont nommées par leur nom INCI. Les quantités indiquées sont en % en poids en matière première, sauf mention contraire.The examples which follow will provide a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting. Raw materials are named by their INCI name. The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw material, unless otherwise stated.
Exemple 1 : Préparation de compositions cosmétiques selon la présente inventionExample 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention
(35% en MA* Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol dans 40% d’eau et 25% de propylène glycol))MEXORYL SCN from NOVEAL
(35% MA* Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in 40% water and 25% propylene glycol))
1- Préparation de la phase B : Agiter la phase B à température ambiante jusqu'à obtention d’un mélange homogène
1- Preparation of phase B: Stir phase B at room temperature until a homogeneous mixture is obtained
2- Introduire le mélange de la phase A dans un fondoir, maintenir la température à 65°C pendant 45 minutes sous agitation à 600 tr/min jusqu'à obtention d'une phase homogène et opalescente
2- Introduce the phase A mixture into a melter, maintain the temperature at 65°C for 45 minutes with stirring at 600 rpm until a homogeneous and opalescent phase is obtained
3- Ajouter la phase B dans la phase A sous agitation entre 2000 et 4000 tr/min
3- Add phase B into phase A with stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm
4- Arrêter le flux thermique et laisser refroidir sous agitation vive entre 2000 et 4000 tr/min
4- Stop the heat flow and let cool with vigorous stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm
5- A 40°C environ, ajouter la phase C sous agitation et mélanger jusqu'à obtention d'une phase homogène, lisse et brillante
5- At approximately 40°C, add phase C with stirring and mix until a homogeneous, smooth and shiny phase is obtained
6- A 30°C, ajouter la phase D sous agitation puis la phase E. Mélanger jusqu’à homogénéisation.
6- At 30°C, add phase D with stirring then phase E. Mix until homogenized.
7- Ajuster le pH si besoin
7- Adjust the pH if necessary
Exemple 2 : Stabilité des compositions selon l’inventionExample 2: Stability of the compositions according to the invention
La stabilité au stockage des compositions selon l’invention a été évalué on les soumet à un test de vieillissement accéléré qui consiste à les stocker de 24 heures à deux mois à différentes températures dans une étuve thermostatée (4°C, 25°C, 45°C), en observation macroscopique et en microscopie optique
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-50 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-40 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-60 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-40 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-80 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Aspect microscopique : dispersion régulière de moyens objets (20-40 µm) qui polarisent en Lumière Polarisée, bords nets
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Aspect microscopique : modification de la dispersion des objets (moins agglomérés et moins définis), apparition de gouttes d’huiles, bords nets, ras en LP
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Aspect microscopique : modification de la dispersion des objets (moins agglomérés et moins définis), apparition de gouttes d’huiles, bords nets, ras en LP
Conclusion : Conforme à l’observation T24h à 25°C
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-50 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-60 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-80 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Microscopic appearance: regular dispersion of medium objects (20-40 µm) which polarize in Polarized Light, sharp edges
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Microscopic appearance: modification of the dispersion of objects (less agglomerated and less defined), appearance of drops of oil, sharp edges, flush in LP
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Microscopic appearance: modification of the dispersion of objects (less agglomerated and less defined), appearance of drops of oil, sharp edges, flush in LP
Conclusion: Compliant with observation T24h at 25°C
Une formule selon l’invention a été testée par des personnes expertes et entraînées à tester dans le laboratoire : auto-application sur 5 personnes sur le dos de la main d’une quantité prédéfinie standard.
A formula according to the invention was tested by expert people trained to test in the laboratory: self-application on 5 people on the back of the hand of a standard predefined quantity.
Pendant l’application, à la fin de l’application et après celle-ci, les personnes sont satisfaites par la performance et les propriétés cosmétiques de la composition de l'invention, notamment elles considèrent que :
During the application, at the end of the application and after it, people are satisfied with the performance and the cosmetic properties of the composition of the invention, in particular they consider that:
- pendant l’application : le playtime est suffisant avec un bon étalement et non collant
- during application: playtime is sufficient with good spreading and non-sticky
- à la fin d’application : émollient sans avoir un film présent et gras
- at the end of application: emollient without having a present and greasy film
- le fini peau : non collant non brillant
- skin finish: non-sticky, non-shiny
Les compositions de l’invention présentent donc un bon sensoriel, tout en ayant un effet anti-âge de la peau, et répondent donc aux problématiques fixées initialement.The compositions of the invention therefore have good sensory properties, while having an anti-aging effect on the skin, and therefore respond to the problems initially identified.
Claims (12)
- au moins un monoglycéride ;
- au moins un dérivé d’acide citrique, en particulier ses esters, ses sels, et leur(s) mélange(s);
- au moins un dérivé C-glycoside de formule générale (I) suivante :
dans laquelle :
- R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire non substitué en C1-C4, notamment en C1-C2, en particulier le méthyle ;
- S représente un monosaccharide choisi parmi le D-glucose, le D-xylose, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine ou le L-fucose, et en particulier le D-xylose ;
- X représente un groupement choisi parmi -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, et préférentiellement un groupement –CH(OH)- ;
ainsi que ses sels cosmétiquement acceptables, ses solvates tels que les hydrates et ses isomères optiques ; et
- au moins 55% en poids d’eau par rapport au poids total de la composition.- Composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises;
- at least one monoglyceride;
- at least one citric acid derivative, in particular its esters, its salts, and their mixture(s);
- at least one C-glycoside derivative of the following general formula (I):
in which :
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 , in particular in C 1 -C 2 , in particular methyl;
- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH 2 )-, and preferably a –CH(OH)- group;
as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates such as hydrates and its optical isomers; And
- at least 55% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2213760A FR3143337A1 (en) | 2022-12-19 | 2022-12-19 | Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2213760A FR3143337A1 (en) | 2022-12-19 | 2022-12-19 | Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative |
| FR2213760 | 2022-12-19 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR3143337A1 true FR3143337A1 (en) | 2024-06-21 |
Family
ID=85461617
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2213760A Pending FR3143337A1 (en) | 2022-12-19 | 2022-12-19 | Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a citric acid derivative and a C-glycoside derivative |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3143337A1 (en) |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH02295912A (en) | 1989-05-10 | 1990-12-06 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
| WO2002051828A2 (en) | 2000-12-22 | 2002-07-04 | L'oreal | Novel c-glycoside derivatives and use thereof |
| EP2206491A1 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2010-07-14 | L'oreal | Association of monosaccharides and C-glycoside derivatives and its use in cosmetics |
| EP2939657A1 (en) * | 2012-12-27 | 2015-11-04 | Hayashibara Co., Ltd. | Skin-exterior anti-ageing composition and production method therefor |
| WO2020126732A1 (en) * | 2018-12-20 | 2020-06-25 | L'oreal | Composition comprising a monoglyceride, a tartaric ester of monoglyceride and a salicylic acid compound |
| US20210093539A1 (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2021-04-01 | Concept Matrix Solutions | Topical cosmetic |
| WO2023076578A1 (en) * | 2021-10-31 | 2023-05-04 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions comprising high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol |
-
2022
- 2022-12-19 FR FR2213760A patent/FR3143337A1/en active Pending
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH02295912A (en) | 1989-05-10 | 1990-12-06 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Cosmetic |
| WO2002051828A2 (en) | 2000-12-22 | 2002-07-04 | L'oreal | Novel c-glycoside derivatives and use thereof |
| EP2206491A1 (en) * | 2008-12-30 | 2010-07-14 | L'oreal | Association of monosaccharides and C-glycoside derivatives and its use in cosmetics |
| EP2939657A1 (en) * | 2012-12-27 | 2015-11-04 | Hayashibara Co., Ltd. | Skin-exterior anti-ageing composition and production method therefor |
| WO2020126732A1 (en) * | 2018-12-20 | 2020-06-25 | L'oreal | Composition comprising a monoglyceride, a tartaric ester of monoglyceride and a salicylic acid compound |
| US20210093539A1 (en) * | 2019-09-30 | 2021-04-01 | Concept Matrix Solutions | Topical cosmetic |
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| DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 12 November 2021 (2021-11-12), ANONYMOUS: "Replenishing Anti-Sagginess Day Cream", XP093058780, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/9104144/ Database accession no. 9104144 * |
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| DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 8 July 2010 (2010-07-08), ANONYMOUS: "Re-Plumping + Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream SPF 20", XP093059037, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/1337365/ Database accession no. 1337365 * |
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