WO2012172207A2

WO2012172207A2 - Emulsion comprising an ester of a sugar and of a fatty acid and an ester of an amino acid and of a fatty alcohol

Info

Publication number: WO2012172207A2
Application number: PCT/FR2012/050685
Authority: WO
Inventors: Cécile SAQUET-GOUVILLE; Olga Biganska
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-04-01
Filing date: 2012-03-30
Publication date: 2012-12-20
Also published as: WO2012172207A3; FR2973235B1; FR2973235A1

Abstract

The subject matter of the invention is a cosmetic composition in emulsion form comprising at least one ester of a sugar and of C₁₀-C₂₄ fatty acid and at least one cationic emulsifier chosen from esters of a neutral amino acid, the amine function of which is partially or totally neutralized, and of a C₈-C₅₀ fatty alcohol. The composition of the invention is in the form of a thick cream, which does not soap and the penetration of which is sufficiently rapid. Moreover, it exhibits good cosmetic properties, that is to say an even and pleasant texture on application, and also good innocuousness.

Description

Emulsion comprising a sugar and fatty acid ester and an amino acid and fatty alcohol ester

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising at least one sugar and fatty acid ester and at least one amino acid and fatty alcohol ester, as well as its use in the cosmetic field.

In order to thicken the cosmetic compositions and in particular to obtain compositions in the form of thick creams or even butters, it is known to use synthetic thickening or gelling polymers such as acrylic polymers, acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers with 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid base.

To satisfy the demand of consumers looking for cosmetic products based on natural ingredients, it has been proposed to thicken natural products in different ways:

1) by the addition of one or more different fatty alcohols such as, for example, cetyl, stearyl or behenic fatty alcohols. In this case, the rate of the latter which makes it possible to reach the desired viscosity must be quite important, which contributes to accentuating the soap effect (appearance, during the application, of a persistent white film on the skin). , synonymous at the level of the consumer of a difficult penetration of the product;

2) by the addition of unmodified natural polymers such as celluloses, starches, xanthan gums, guar gum, carob gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenan gum, pectin, etc. This approach leads to a certain thickening which is not sufficient, in most cases, to achieve the desired viscosity. The increase in the concentration of these polymers in the cosmetic formulations leads to the loss of the smooth side of the texture, the accentuation of the spinning side when taking the product and the "fluffing" (appearance on the skin, after application of the product, white particles, size more or less important).

There is therefore still a need for a thickening system that is compatible with the formulation of cosmetic products based on natural or natural compounds, which makes it possible to obtain high-performance, thick, non-soaping natural creams whose penetration is fast enough.

"Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

By compounds "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the use of sugar ester and fatty acid, in combination with neutralized esters of particular amino acids makes it possible to formulate cosmetic compositions in the form of creams, natural, high performance, thick, which do not soap and whose penetration is fast enough.

Thus, the present application relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:

at least one C10-C24 fatty acid and sugar ester; and

at least one cationic emulsifier chosen from neutral amino acid esters whose amine function is partially or completely neutralized and of C 8 -C 50 fatty alcohol.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratin materials such as skin, mucous membranes, scalp, eyes and / or keratin fibers such as eyelashes or hair. The compositions of the invention are in the form of thick creams, viscosities generally of the order of 1.9 to 2.4 Pa.s, or, in the case of butters, 4 Pa.s, which do not soap not and whose penetration is fast enough. Otherwise, they have good cosmetic properties, that is to say a homogeneous texture and pleasant to the application, as well as good safety.

In the context of the invention, the viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS- R5 chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a shear of 200 s ^-1 .

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.

Ester of sugar and fatty acid

Under this name is meant according to the present invention, a sugar ester and fatty acid C- | rj-C24 'preferably C-12-C2O' ^and better still C- | 2-C "I 8-

By "sugar" is meant compounds which have several alcohol functions, with aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As sugars that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose , and their especially alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The fatty acids comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, cocoyl, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, or mixtures thereof which lead in particular to mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate, palmito-stearate or mixtures thereof.

The esters may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of mono- and di-esters, and in particular mono- or di-oleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose and in particular the product sold under the name GLUCATE DO by the company AMERCHOL, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the sugar and fatty acid ester is a sucrose and fatty acid ester, preferably chosen from esters resulting from the sucrose (s) (sucrose) reaction. and fatty acid (s) comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In particular, the sucrose and fatty acid ester is chosen from esters resulting from the sucrose and fatty acid reaction comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and / or palmitic acid. such as sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture.

The sucrose esters of fatty acids may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters with a low degree of esterification, such as, for example, monoesters, diesters, triesters of sucrose and fatty acid, or a mixture, are preferably used. The sucrose and fatty acid ester may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoester and diester or a mixture of monoester, diester and triester. In the case where a mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid is used, a mixture is preferred in which the esters with a low degree of esterification, in particular monoesters, are in the majority and represent for example at least 50 %, preferably at least 60% by weight of the mixture of sucrose esters and fatty acid. Preferably, the sucrose and fatty acid ester used in the present invention has an HLB greater than or equal to 10, preferably greater than or equal to 12. As is well known, HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) is understood to mean ) the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and lipophilic group strength of the surfactant.

The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Examples of esters or mixtures of sucrose and fatty acid esters are:

COSME C-1803 Surfhope, which is a sucrose tristearate comprising approximately 20% of monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters,

surfhope SE COSME C-1416, which is a myristate sucrose comprising approximately 80% of monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters,

surfhope SE COSME C-1216 whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, which comprises from 75 to 90% of monoester, the remainder of the mixture being composed of di and triesters,

the COS SEQUENCE C COSMEB-1215L whose INCI name is sucrose laurate, comprising approximately 70% monoesters, the rest of the mixture being composed of diesters and other polyesters,

surfhope SE COSME C-1616, which is a mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate), comprising from 75 to 90% of monoester, the rest of the mixture being composed of di and triesters, and may include sucrose stearate and sucrose palmitate stearate.

Mention may also be made of the ester bearing the INCI name sucrose laurate marketed by Dai-ichi Seiyaku under the reference DK ester S-L18A, comprising 70% monoesters and 30% di- and tri-esters.

Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid sucrose esters are:

the products sold under the names F50, F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates formed from 30% monoester and 70% polyester, 73 % monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetraester, and mono-laurate sucrose;

the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;

the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.

The amount of sugar ester (s) and fatty acid may range, for example, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acid ester and fatty alcohol ester These are cationic emulsifiers of neutralized amino acid ester which are preferably of natural origin, since they are not derived from petrochemical materials, and may also be produced from non-animal and non-GMO reagents, and prepared by methods that utilize the principles of Green Chemistry. Because of the cationic structure of the ester, it is well suited for personal care applications, particularly for compositions used in the conditioning of hair and skin.

In addition, it has been discovered that these neutralized amino acid esters have a lower impact on the environment in terms of ecotoxicity. The neutralized amino acid ester useful in the context of the invention is derived from the esterification of (i) a neutral amino acid; with (ii) a long chain fatty alcohol, the amine function of the amino acid being partially or completely neutralized. In particular, suitable amino acid esters are derived from the esterification of a neutral amino acid having a hydrocarbon side chain with a long chain fatty alcohol.

The amino acid ester useful in the context of the invention may be represented by the following structure of formula (I), in which the amine function is totally or partially neutralized with an acid:

(l) in which:

R 1 represents an alkyl group, which may be branched or linear, and may have one to ten carbon atoms, preferably two to six carbon atoms;

R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, which may be linear or branched, may contain at least one unsaturated carbon atom, and may contain from eight to fifty carbon atoms. carbon, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

Amino acids for the formation of the ester include any of those which are neutral. In one embodiment, L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine and L-isoleucine can be selected. Particularly preferred in certain embodiments of the invention is L-isoleucine.

It is preferred that the selected neutral amino acid is not derived from animal sources or GMO sources. In one embodiment, it may be preferred that the amino acid (s) be synthetic and / or derived from plants, algae or other non-animal organisms. They can be obtained, for example, from plant material by a fermentation process.

To obtain the ester useful in the context of the invention, the amino group of the amino acid is neutralized with an acid, and reacted with a long chain fatty alcohol. Suitable fatty alcohols may be linear and / or branched and may further be saturated and / or unsaturated. It may be preferred that the fatty alcohol contain about eight to about fifty carbon atoms. In one embodiment, linear and / or branched fatty alcohols containing from about eight to about twenty-four carbon atoms may be preferred.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. or combinations thereof. It is recommended that fatty alcohols be derived from non-petrochemical sources.

The amino group of the amino acid ester can be totally or partially neutralized with an acid, in order to facilitate its cationic behavior. Any acid may be used, including organic and inorganic acids. Suitable acids include, but are not limited to, mineral acids, amino acids, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, and nitric acid. Suitable organic acids may be citric acid, ethanesulfonic acid, acetic acid, formic acid and oxalic acid. Suitable amino acids may include glutamic acid and aspartic acid. In one embodiment, an ethanesulfonic acid which is derived from non-GMO ethanol may be preferred.

An example of a preferred neutralized amino acid ester may be brassicyl-L-isoleucine esylate (BLIE) or leucine isostearyl ester esylate (LIEE). Brassicyl-L-isoleucine esylate (BLIE) can be derived from the esterification of Brassica alcohol with L-isoleucine esylate. L-isoleucine esylate can be prepared by reacting the amino group on isoleucine with ethanesulfonic acid. Brassica alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is derived from the separation of rapeseed oil rich in erucic acid obtained from the genus Brassica plants followed by hydrogenation. The Brassica alcohol consists mainly of stearyl (Ci ₈ ), arachidyl (C ₂ O) and behenyl (C ₂₂ ) alcohols with minor amounts of lower and higher alkyl chain length alcohols.

By way of examples, mention may be made of the following raw materials sold by the company INOLEX:

EMULSENSE, which is a mixture of 65% BRASSICYL ISOLEUCINATE ESYLATE and 35% BRASSICA ALCOHOL;

EMLSENSE SC, which is a blend of 50% BRASSICA ALCOHOL, 25% BRASSICYL ISOLEUCINATE ESYLATE and 25% BRASSICA GLYCERIDES; EMULSENSE HC, which is a mixture of 76% BRASSICA ALCOHOL and 24% BRASSICYL ISOLEUCINATE ESYLATE.

The neutralized amino acid ester of the invention may be synthesized by methods well known in the art.

The amount of cationic emulsifiers can range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the sugar and fatty acid ester and the amino acid and fatty alcohol ester, an additional surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, not ionic or amphoteric, especially nonionic surfactants, but only to the extent that the presence of these surfactants does not affect the comfort (safety) of the composition.

The additional surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably surfactants of natural origin, in which the compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical synthesis may be included, in particular they may be chosen from soaps (salts of fatty acids), derivatives of soybean oil, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), hydrophobized gums and mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, the sugar and fatty acid ester (s) and the amino acid and fatty alcohol ester (s) constitute the main surfactant system of the composition.

By "main surfactant system" is meant a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.

By "stable" is meant a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45 ° C. for two months, does not show, after returning to ambient temperature, phase shift of the fatty and aqueous phases, or fatty phase release. surface. According to another embodiment, the sugar and fatty acid ester (s) and the amino acid and fatty alcohol ester (s) constitute the only surfactant system of the composition.

By "unique" is meant that any additional surfactant system is present in a content not exceeding 1%, and preferably not exceeding 0.5%. More preferably, "single" denotes a total absence of any other surfactant system.

The composition in accordance with the invention is in the form of an emulsion. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and / or hydrophilic solvents such as polyols.

The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralized pure water but also mineral water and / or thermal water and / or seawater, that is to say say that the water of the composition may be partly or wholly constituted by a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea water and their mixtures. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case of a thermal water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, solubilized minerals and / or trace elements. These waters are known to be used for purposes of specific treatment according to the particular trace elements and minerals they contain, such as hydration and desensitization of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. In mineral or thermal waters, not only natural mineral or thermal waters, but also mineral waters or natural spas enriched with mineral constituents and / or additional trace elements, as well as aqueous mineral solutions and / or containing trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled). A natural thermal or mineral water used according to the invention may, for example, be selected from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, water the Bourboule, the water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, the water of Neyrac-les-Bains, the water of Lons-le-Saunier, the Good Waters, the water of Rochefort, the water of Saint Christau, the water of Fumes and water from Tercis-les-Bains, Avene water.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, dipropylene glycol, and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol is glycerine which gives a better comfort to the application. Other polyols may be added to the glycerin to the extent that the qualities of the composition are maintained.

The quantity of water in the aqueous phase may range, for example, from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of polyol (s) in the aqueous phase can range, for example, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of plant origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example xanthan gum). This polysaccharide derived from the plant may optionally be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose). As examples of polysaccharides of vegetable origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) extracts of algae, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenan include the Satiagum UTC30 ^® and UTC10 ^® from Degussa; as alginates include sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol ^® by ISP; (b) gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, guar gum include marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 ^® by Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac ^® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; (c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR I ^® rice starch marketed by Remy; cornstarch B ^® from Roquette; the potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace ^® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure ^® by the company National Starch; d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name ^Index® from National Starch; e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, there may be mentioned cetyl hydroxy ethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS ^® and Natrosol Plus 330 from Aqualon ^®; and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1, 5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2%. in weight. It can be completely free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.

Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex).

Fatty phase The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure or oils (which form the oily phase). ), the solid fatty substances at room temperature such as waxes, or pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba and babassu oils; , sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia , arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, the shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 at 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate d octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, citrate triisocetyl, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

- their mixtures.

The following oils may also be mentioned:

the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and at least one alcohol comprising 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by COGNIS company,

fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin), such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

octydodecanol,

volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371.

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C ₉ ), n-decane (C ₀ ), n-undecane (C n), n-dodecane ( C12), n-tridecane (C _3), n-tetradecane (C _4), n-pentadecane (C _5), n-hexadecane (C ₆₎ and n-heptadecane (C ₇₎ and mixtures thereof . According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cn) and tridecane (Ci ₃ ) such as the product marketed under the reference CETIOL UT by the company Cognis, the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name INCI dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer.

and their mixtures.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from vegetable oils as mentioned above.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

A pasty compound is at a temperature of 23 ° C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1,1357- 3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak. The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may be chosen in particular from isomericized jojoba oil such as isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil produced or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba- 50®, orange wax as for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, Lipex 203 from the Aarhuskarlshamn company and their mixtures.

In addition to such a pasty fatty substance, a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and capable of go up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

For the purposes of the present invention, hard wax is understood to mean a wax exhibiting at 20 ° C. a hardness greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, more preferably from 6 to 25 MPa. MPa.

The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The measurement protocol is as follows: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting temperature of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the measurement. hardness or stickiness.

The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

As wax, waxes of vegetable origin such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with the C12-C18 chain fatty alcohol sold by SOPHIM in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, cetyl alcohols , stearyl and behenic, laurel wax, Ouricury wax.

It is also possible to use at least one behenic acid and glycerol acid ester and in particular a mixture of behenic acid and glycerol esters, for example the glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin and glyceryl behenate mixture marketed by Gattefossé under the reference COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO The amount of fatty phase in the composition of the invention may range from 5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic field, such as pH agents, for example citric acid or arginine, antioxidants, preservatives, for example an alcoholic mixture. benzyl / dehydroacetic acid, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties attached intrinsically to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M00® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name AMIDON DE MAIS B® by the company ROQUETTE, and nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD. NAT COS® by ATOCHEM, the microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylonitrile copolymer enclosing isobutane, expanded such as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by Expancel. Fibers such as for example nylon fibers (POLYAMIDE 0.9 DTEX 0.3 MM sold by PAUL BONTE Establishments, cellulose fibers or "Rayonne" (RAYON FLOCK RCISE N0003 M04®) marketed by the Company may also be added to the composition of the invention. CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION).

The compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to keratinous substances such as the skin (body, face, eyes, scalp) and / or ketatinic fibers and may constitute in particular care products, make-up products, make-up removers or cleaning keratin materials, or hair products.

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips in which they are applied to said materials. keratin, a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Another subject of the invention is the use for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated in chemical names. Examples The following compositions were prepared.

The viscosity of each of these compositions is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 chosen from depending on the consistency of the composition, rotating at a shear of 200 s ^-1 .

The results obtained are shown in the table below. Composition A (Invention) B (Comparative)

Viscosity 1, 9 Pa.s 0.7 Pa.s

Composition A according to the invention is in the form of a consistent cream, firm and thick. It does not soap, despite the presence of long chain fatty alcohols, in C22. It is devoid of a spinning appearance and plush effect specific to products thickened with polysaccharides.

The comparative composition B is in the form of a rather fluid cream, much less consistent than the cream A and quite fast.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in emulsion form comprising:

at least one C10-C24 fatty acid and sugar ester; and

2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the sugar or sugars constituting the sugar esters of C10-C24 fatty acid are selected from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose , mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the fatty acid or fatty acids constituting the C10-C24 fatty acid and sugar esters are chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, acid and palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, cocoic acid, linolenic acid, capric acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof .

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the sugar or fatty acid ester or esters are chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the sugar or fatty acid esters of C10-C24 are chosen from sucrose esters of fatty acid comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the amount of sugar esters and fatty acid C10-C24 is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 3% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the cationic emulsifier or emulsifiers are selected from esters derived from the esterification of (i) a neutral amino acid; with (ii) a long chain fatty alcohol, the amino function of the amino acid being partially or completely neutralized. 8. Composition according to Claim 7, in which the cationic emulsifier or emulsifiers are defined by the following formula (I), in which the amine function is totally or partially neutralized with an acid:

in which :

R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, which may be linear or branched, may contain at least one unsaturated carbon atom, and may contain ten to fifty carbon atoms,

8 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the amino acid (s) of the cationic emulsifier are chosen from L-alanine, L-valine, L-leucine and L-isoleucine, preferably L-isoleucine.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the fatty alcohol (s) of the cationic emulsifier are chosen from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol.

1 1. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the cationic emulsifier (s) is (are) selected from brassicyl L-isoleucine enesylate (BLIE) and leucine isostearyl ester esaltate (LIEE).

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 wherein the amount of cationic emulsifiers is between 1 and 20% by weight, preferably between 3 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in the form of oil-in-water type emulsion.

14. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to said keratin materials.

15. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.