WO2023117730A1 - Expanded cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Expanded cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023117730A1 WO2023117730A1 PCT/EP2022/086274 EP2022086274W WO2023117730A1 WO 2023117730 A1 WO2023117730 A1 WO 2023117730A1 EP 2022086274 W EP2022086274 W EP 2022086274W WO 2023117730 A1 WO2023117730 A1 WO 2023117730A1
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-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/524—Preservatives
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a leave-in abundant cosmetic composition containing a particular preservative system. It also relates to the process for preparing this composition, as well as to its use for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin dryness.
- compositions having an airy texture which are in the form of a mousse have already been suggested, that is to say compositions having an airy texture which are in the form of a mousse. These compositions generally have a continuous oily phase, or even anhydrous. In the case where it is desired to provide a less greasy feel to these compositions, it is desirable to formulate them rather in the form of compositions with a continuous aqueous phase, in particular oil-in-water emulsions.
- the incorporation of water requires the inclusion of a preservative system, since bacteria tend to proliferate in an aqueous medium.
- preservatives suitable for this purpose are already known.
- the preservatives chosen must in any case either be listed in European regulation No. 1223/2009 relating to cosmetic products, or, if they are not listed, not have antimicrobial activity as their main function.
- This last category notably includes glycols, which are preservative boosters also used as moisturizing active ingredients.
- preservatives of natural origin constitutes a real challenge, insofar as they must be used in combination and where the nature and the proportions of the preservatives which are associated strongly influence not only their ability to protect the cosmetic composition against contaminants, but also the ability of the composition to expand. Glycols are thus known to destabilize the water/oil interface of expanded emulsions.
- the Applicant has also demonstrated that certain preservative systems lead to the formation of inhomogeneities in the product leaving the expansion device and a variation in the density of this product over time, so that the products turn out to be non-compliant in terms of in appearance and mass, which led to their scrapping.
- the subject of the invention is thus a non-rinsed out expanded cosmetic composition
- a fatty phase comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one gas
- said composition containing a preservative system comprising:
- constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and that constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for preparing this composition, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps:
- composition defined above for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin dryness, in particular for nourishing and/or softening the skin of the face or of the body, preferably of the body.
- composition according to the invention is a leave-in cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase constituting a physiologically acceptable medium.
- Leave-in composition means that the composition according to the invention is suitable for being left in contact with the skin and/or the hair (preferably the skin), to which it has previously been applied, for several hours, even a day or a night. It is a care and not a cleansing composition, which is generally in the form of a cream.
- composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, the constituents of which will now be described in more detail.
- the fatty phase included in the composition according to the invention contains at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent.
- oils can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils.
- oil means a compound that is liquid at room temperature. (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa) which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water , or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
- volatile oil is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of the order of 0.001 to 300 mm Hg and preferably of 0.01 to 10 mm Hg at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure.
- these oils also have a flash point (measured according to the ASTM D93 standard) of less than 100° C., preferably between 50 and 95° C., for example between 70 and 90° C., or even between 80 and 90° C. and/or a kinematic viscosity of less than 5 cSt, or even between 1 and 3 cSt, at 40°C.
- volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes.
- esters of acids and of mono-alcohol chosen from: mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C2-C10 acids (preferably C6-C10) and of saturated linear C10-C18 mono-alcohols (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of linear C2-C4 mono-alcohols;
- C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides such as caprylic and capric acid triglycerides and triheptanoin;
- C10-C20 fatty acids such as oleic and linoleic acids
- C10-C20 fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol
- squalane C30
- vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil Cl 5
- hemisqualane Cl 5
- dialkyl carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate
- dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether
- esters of acids and of monoalcohols mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of caprate and caprylate of coconut, ethyl macadamiate, ethyl ester of shea butter, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate and their mixtures.
- monoesters such as
- esters which can be used are the diesters of dicarboxylic acids and of monoalcohols such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.
- Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, Echium, camelina or camellia.
- non-volatile oils and more preferably, among these, hydrocarbon oils. These preferably contain only carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms and are advantageously chosen from fatty acid esters and vegetable oils. In any case, it is preferred that the composition does not contain silicone oil or any other silicone compound.
- the oils can represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention also preferably comprises at least one fatty phase structuring agent.
- fatty phase structuring agent is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as mixtures thereof.
- wax designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance that is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C, as measured by DSC.
- waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as bee, Chinese insect, candelilla, carnauba or acacia waxes; hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soya, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oils; esters of saturated linear C14-C30 fatty acids and saturated linear C16-C36 fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C10-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
- animal or vegetable origin such as bee, Chinese insect, candelilla, carnauba or acacia waxes
- hydrogenated vegetable oils in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soya, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oils
- esters of saturated linear C14-C30 fatty acids and saturated linear C16-C36 fatty alcohols linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C10-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
- the waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- fatty phase gelling agents reference is made to compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by forming a three-dimensional network.
- the compounds of this type used according to the invention are clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites) modified hydrophobically, in particular with distearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of C16-C26 (preferably linear and saturated) fatty acid glycerides, such as the compound Nomcort® HKG or the triesters of linear and saturated Cs-Cso fatty acids, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol , such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and their mixtures.
- the fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and of hydroxystearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN” and which is in particular commercially available. from Elementis Specialties under the trade name Thixcin® R.
- the pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with a reversible liquid/solid state change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
- the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be lower than 23°C.
- the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
- This liquid fraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
- the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
- the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance .
- the pasty fatty substance may in particular be chosen from:
- polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers
- polyglycerol esters in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product marketed under the brand name Softisan® 649 by the company SASOL, or else a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as polygyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) diol dimer esters and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s), in particular dilinole
- the fatty phase structurants consist of a mixture of at least one wax, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, and of at least one pasty fatty substance, advantageously chosen from vegetable butters.
- the fatty phase structurants can represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 5 to 15% of the weight of the composition.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains water, representing for example from 40 to 90% by weight and preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- APMS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
- composition according to the invention generally has a pH ranging from 4 to 7, more preferably from 4.5 to 6.
- composition according to the invention contains a particular preservative system comprising, preferably consisting of:
- diol is meant a compound with a hydrocarbon structure, containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms, substituted by two hydroxyl groups only. Their hydrocarbon structure is advantageously acyclic and saturated, and generally linear. Examples of diols containing three to six carbon atoms are chosen from 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol, preferably they consist of a mixture of 1 ,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. Of for their part, the diols containing from seven to ten carbon atoms can in particular be chosen from caprylyl glycol and decanediol, preferably caprylyl glycol.
- glyceryl caprylate as well as with at least one glycerol ether, which may in particular comprise or even consist of glycerol (2-ethylhexyl) ether identified under the INCI name ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN.
- Components (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and component (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, these percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention also contains at least one gas, which can in particular be chosen from air, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon dioxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Air and nitrogen are preferred for use in the present invention.
- composition is thus in the form of an emulsion in which are trapped gas bubbles having for example a size of 0.5 to 50 ⁇ m.
- the composition according to the invention can be packaged in the form of a foam and stored in this form for several months in its packaging.
- the composition according to the invention is packaged in a jar or a tube.
- the composition Due to the presence of the aforementioned gas within its structure, the composition has a density of between 0.40 and 0.9 g/cm 3 and preferably between 0.5 and 0.8 g/cm 3 . Density can be measured conventionally using a pycnometer or beaker of known volume.
- the expansion rate of the composition according to the invention is generally between 10 and 150%. It is preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 45%, or even at least 50%, and generally less than 70%.
- composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more other constituents chosen, for example, from: surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants, of polymeric or nonpolymeric type; the perfumes ; sequestrants; antioxidants; pH adjusters; UV filters; pigments; dyes, mother-of-pearl, "soft-focus” effect powders and their mixtures.
- the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one powdery filler, intended to improve its feel, which may be in the form of porous or hollow, preferably porous, microparticles. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical.
- These fillers may in particular be chosen from:
- organic fillers such as: polysaccharide powders and in particular native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate), of polyamides or of polyolefins; dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;
- inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;
- the starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch.
- modified starches are optionally pre-gelatinized and/or oxidized starches, which are esterified with an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular with octenylsuccinic or dodecylsuccinic anhydride, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked with sodium trimetaphosphate. Starches, preferably native, are preferred organic fillers for use in this invention.
- the composition may also comprise one or more moisturizing and/or soothing active agents, in addition to the polyols already present in the preservative system, in particular glycerin, polysaccharides such as beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid, urea , trehalose, panthenol, allantoin, beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts containing them (such as an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra), planktons and their extracts, escin and plant extracts containing them (in particular chestnut from India), aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, linden, peony, hawthorn, mallow, marigold, sweet clover, sage, elderberry, arnica , oregano, green tea, iris, water lily
- moisturizing and/or soothing active agents in addition to the polyols already present in the preservative system, in particular g
- These hydrating active agents represent for example from 0.01 to 20% and preferably from 0.3 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
- composition described above can be prepared according to a process comprising the following successive steps:
- the emulsion can be prepared in a conventional manner and in particular at a temperature of 70 to 90° C., in which case the process according to the invention comprises a subsequent step of cooling before introducing air. As a variant, it can be prepared at a temperature lower than or equal to 50° C., so that this step is not necessary.
- the introduction of gas into the composition is carried out in a mixer, typically comprising means of mechanical agitation and means of supplying gas. Mixers of this type are in particular aeration systems such as those available from the company HAAS under the trade name Mondomix®. It may be advantageous to provide a stage of maturation of the composition before expansion, at a temperature of 30 to 50° C., for a period of at least 12 hours, for example at least 24 hours, or even at least 2 days. , or even at least 6 days.
- composition according to the invention can be used, by topical application to the skin, to prevent or treat the signs of skin dryness, in particular to nourish and/or soften the skin. Alternatively, it can be used to nourish the hair, especially the ends.
- the composition according to the invention can thus be applied to all areas of the body and hair in adults and children, more particularly to the face, neck and/or Vietnameselleté, or to drier areas such as the elbows, knees, feet, hands, hair and/or lips. It can be applied once or twice a day, preferably morning and/or evening.
- composition according to the invention can thus be implemented according to a process comprising the steps consisting in:
- compositions to the skin and/or the hair (preferably the skin), generally by hand,
- Figure 1 illustrates the appearance at the output of the expansion device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a preservative system according to the invention.
- Figure 2 illustrates the appearance at the outlet of the expansion device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a comparative preservative system.
- Example 1 Preparation of a composition according to the invention
- the emulsion thus obtained was steamed between 25 and 45° C. then transferred to a device of the Mondomix® (HAAS) type provided with a feed pump, a mixing head making it possible to shear the composition and to introduce a gas and a counter valve pressure.
- the parameters of the device were adjusted to obtain an expansion rate of between 45 and 55%.
- the composition obtained had the texture of a white cream with an airy appearance.
- Example 2 Various cosmetic compositions similar to that described in Example 1 were prepared, which were subjected to a microbiological test and an overrun test, respectively.
- a “challenge test” aimed at evaluating the effectiveness of the preservative system according to the invention compared to similar preservative systems was carried out. To do this, the compositions tested were contaminated with microorganisms present on the skin, then the evolution of these microorganisms was monitored for 28 days at 32.5°C, in accordance with the ISO 11930:2012 standard.
- the overrun was considered compliant when the formula flowed evenly and had a smooth appearance, with no air bubbles visible.
- Composition Cl according to the invention satisfies the expectations in terms of microbiological properties and ability to expand.
- Figure 1 illustrates the appearance of Composition Cl at the outlet of the expansion device and in the pot.
- compositions A1 to A4 which are devoid of one of the constituents of the preservative system according to the invention, do not meet the requirements of the challenge test.
- composition A5 which contains these constituents in insufficient quantity.
- Table 3 shows that it is possible to add caprylyl glycol to composition C1 according to the invention (Composition C2) without harming the desired preservation and expansion properties, provided that it is not present in too large a quantity (Composition A7).
- the quantity of diols containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms can be increased without adversely affecting the expansion (Compositions C3 and C4).
- the glycerol ether (ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN) present in the composition according to the invention must be used in small quantities, so as not to harm the ability of the composition to expand (Composition A6).
- Figure 2 illustrates the appearance of Composition A6 at the outlet of the expansion device and in the pot.
- An emulsion was prepared by mixing the ingredients below in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art:
- Example 1 Water qs 100% After cooling, the emulsion was aerated as described in Example 1. A cosmetic composition suitable for being applied to the whole of the body and which was judged to be very moisturizing by a panel of consumers was thus obtained.
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Abstract
The invention relates to a non-rinsed, expanded cosmetic composition comprising a specific preservative system. The invention also relates to the method for producing said composition, as well as to the use thereof for preventing and/or treating the signs of dry skin.
Description
Composition cosmétique foisonnée Abundant cosmetic composition
OBJET DE L’INVENTION OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique foisonnée non rincée renfermant un système conservateur particulier. Elle se rapporte également au procédé de préparation de cette composition, ainsi qu’à son utilisation pour prévenir et/ou traiter les signes du dessèchement cutané. The present invention relates to a leave-in abundant cosmetic composition containing a particular preservative system. It also relates to the process for preparing this composition, as well as to its use for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin dryness.
ARRIERE-PLAN DE L’INVENTION BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Il a déjà été suggéré des compositions cosmétiques foisonnées non rincées, c’est-à-dire des compositions ayant une texture aérée qui se présentent sous forme de mousse. Ces compositions sont généralement à phase huileuse continue, voire anhydres. Dans le cas où l’on souhaite apporter un toucher moins gras à ces compositions il est souhaitable de les formuler plutôt sous forme de compositions à phase aqueuse continue, notamment d’émulsions huile-dans-eau. Toutefois, l’incorporation d’eau nécessite l’inclusion d’un système conservateur, dans la mesure où les bactéries ont tendance à proliférer en milieu aqueux. Abundant leave-in cosmetic compositions have already been suggested, that is to say compositions having an airy texture which are in the form of a mousse. These compositions generally have a continuous oily phase, or even anhydrous. In the case where it is desired to provide a less greasy feel to these compositions, it is desirable to formulate them rather in the form of compositions with a continuous aqueous phase, in particular oil-in-water emulsions. However, the incorporation of water requires the inclusion of a preservative system, since bacteria tend to proliferate in an aqueous medium.
On connaît déjà de nombreux conservateurs adaptés à cette fin. Les conservateurs choisis doivent en tout état de cause soit être listés dans le règlement européen N° 1223/2009 relatif aux produits cosmétiques, soit, s’ils ne sont pas listés, ne pas avoir d’activité antimicrobienne comme fonction principale. Cette dernière catégorie comprend notamment les glycols, qui sont des boosters de conservateur utilisés également comme actifs hydratants. Many preservatives suitable for this purpose are already known. The preservatives chosen must in any case either be listed in European regulation No. 1223/2009 relating to cosmetic products, or, if they are not listed, not have antimicrobial activity as their main function. This last category notably includes glycols, which are preservative boosters also used as moisturizing active ingredients.
Toutefois, certains de ces conservateurs ne permettent pas la formulation d’une composition répondant aux exigences de la norme ISO 16128 relative aux cosmétiques bio, c’est-à-dire renfermant au moins 95% en poids d’ingrédients d’origine naturelle. Il en est ainsi de la chlorphénésine et du phénoxy éthanol, qui font partie des conservateurs listés. Le phénoxy éthanol est en outre controversé actuellement, dans la mesure où il est suspecté notamment d’être un allergène. However, some of these preservatives do not allow the formulation of a composition that meets the requirements of the ISO 16128 standard relating to organic cosmetics, i.e. containing at least 95% by weight of ingredients of natural origin. This is the case with chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol, which are among the listed preservatives. Phenoxy ethanol is also currently controversial, insofar as it is suspected in particular of being an allergen.
En outre, la Demanderesse s’est aperçue que l’utilisation de conservateurs d’origine naturelle constitue un véritable défi, dans la mesure où ils doivent être utilisés en combinaison et où la nature et les proportions des conservateurs qui sont associés influence fortement non seulement leur capacité à protéger la composition cosmétique contre les contaminants, mais aussi
l’aptitude de la composition au foisonnement. Les glycols sont ainsi connus pour déstabiliser l’interface eau/huile des émulsions foisonnées. La Demanderesse a en outre démontré que certains systèmes conservateurs entraînaient la formation d’inhomogénéités dans le produit sortant du dispositif de foisonnement et une variation de la densité de ce produit au cours du temps, de sorte que les produits s’avéraient non conformes en terme d’aspect et de masse, ce qui conduisait à leur mise au rebut. In addition, the Applicant has noticed that the use of preservatives of natural origin constitutes a real challenge, insofar as they must be used in combination and where the nature and the proportions of the preservatives which are associated strongly influence not only their ability to protect the cosmetic composition against contaminants, but also the ability of the composition to expand. Glycols are thus known to destabilize the water/oil interface of expanded emulsions. The Applicant has also demonstrated that certain preservative systems lead to the formation of inhomogeneities in the product leaving the expansion device and a variation in the density of this product over time, so that the products turn out to be non-compliant in terms of in appearance and mass, which led to their scrapping.
Après de nombreuses recherches, la Demanderesse a mis au point un système conservateur spécialement adapté aux compositions foisonnées, qui permet de conserver efficacement ces compositions sans altérer leur capacité de foisonnement. Il est ainsi possible de préparer des compositions ayant un taux de foisonnement d’au mois 45% à l’échelle industrielle. After much research, the Applicant has developed a preservative system specially adapted to expanded compositions, which makes it possible to effectively preserve these compositions without altering their expansion capacity. It is thus possible to prepare compositions having an expansion rate of at least 45% on an industrial scale.
Certains de ces conservateurs ont déjà été décrits en combinaison comme constituants de compositions cosmétiques rincées (W02020/160742, DE 10 2017 212647, CN111346015) ou utilisés dans des compositions rincées du commerce (Mousse Divine de QUIRINESS, Therapy Mask de JAYJUN COSMETICS). Some of these preservatives have already been described in combination as constituents of rinse-off cosmetic compositions (W02020/160742, DE 10 2017 212647, CN111346015) or used in commercial rinse-off compositions (Mousse Divine from QUIRINESS, Therapy Mask from JAYJUN COSMETICS).
A la connaissance de la Demanderesse, il n'a toutefois jamais été suggéré d'associer ces conservateurs dans les proportions revendiquées dans la présente demande, en vue de stabiliser des compositions foisonnées non rincées. To the Applicant's knowledge, however, it has never been suggested to combine these preservatives in the proportions claimed in the present application, with a view to stabilizing leave-in rich compositions.
RESUME DE L’INVENTION SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
L’invention a ainsi pour objet une composition cosmétique foisonnée non rincée comprenant une phase grasse, une phase aqueuse et au moins un gaz, ladite composition renfermant un système conservateur comprenant : The subject of the invention is thus a non-rinsed out expanded cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and at least one gas, said composition containing a preservative system comprising:
(a) de 1 à 10% en poids d’au moins deux diols renfermant de trois à six atomes de carbone,(a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six carbon atoms,
(b) de 0,05 à 0,35% en poids de caprylate de glycéryle, (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate,
(c) de 0,05 à 0,25% en poids d’au moins un éther de glycérol, (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether,
(d) éventuellement au moins un diol renfermant de sept à dix atomes de carbone, étant entendu que les constituants (a) à (c) représentent au moins 4% en poids et que le constituant (d), lorsqu’il est présent, représente moins de 0,1% en poids, les pourcentages ci-dessus étant exprimés par rapport au poids total de la composition.
Elle a également pour objet un procédé de préparation de cette composition, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend les étapes successives suivantes : (d) optionally at least one diol containing seven to ten carbon atoms, it being understood that constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and that constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for preparing this composition, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps:
- la préparation d’une émulsion à partir d’une phase aqueuse et d’une phase grasse, - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase,
- le refroidissement de l’émulsion à une température de 30 à 50°C, le cas échéant, - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary,
- l’introduction d’air dans ladite émulsion au moyen d’un mélangeur, jusqu’à atteindre un taux de foisonnement de 10 à 150%, - the introduction of air into the said emulsion by means of a mixer, until an expansion rate of 10 to 150% is reached,
- éventuellement, la maturation de la composition foisonnée ainsi obtenue. - optionally, the maturation of the expanded composition thus obtained.
Elle a encore pour objet l’utilisation cosmétique de la composition définie précédemment pour prévenir et/ou traiter les signes du dessèchement cutané, notamment pour nourrir et/ou assouplir la peau du visage ou du corps, de préférence du corps. It also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition defined above for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin dryness, in particular for nourishing and/or softening the skin of the face or of the body, preferably of the body.
DESCRIPTION DETAILLEE DETAILED DESCRIPTION
La composition selon l’invention est une composition cosmétique non rincée comprenant une phase aqueuse et une phase grasse constituant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. The composition according to the invention is a leave-in cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and a fatty phase constituting a physiologically acceptable medium.
Par "composition non rincée", on entend que la composition selon l'invention est adaptée à être laissée en contact avec la peau et/ou les cheveux (de préférence la peau), sur lesquels elle a préalablement été appliquée, pendant plusieurs heures, voire une journée ou une nuit. Il s'agit d'une composition de soin et non de nettoyage, qui se présente généralement sous forme de crème. "Leave-in composition" means that the composition according to the invention is suitable for being left in contact with the skin and/or the hair (preferably the skin), to which it has previously been applied, for several hours, even a day or a night. It is a care and not a cleansing composition, which is generally in the form of a cream.
Par « milieu physiologiquement acceptable », on entend en particulier un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire qui ne génère pas de picotements ou de rougeurs incompatibles avec une utilisation cosmétique. La composition selon l’invention se présente avantageusement sous la forme d’une émulsion, de préférence d’une émulsion huile-dans-eau, dont les constituants seront à présent décrits plus en détail. By “physiologically acceptable medium”, is meant in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which does not generate tingling or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, the constituents of which will now be described in more detail.
Phase grasse Fat phase
Avantageusement, la phase grasse incluse dans la composition selon l’invention renferme au moins une huile et au moins un structurant de phase grasse. Advantageously, the fatty phase included in the composition according to the invention contains at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent.
Les huiles peuvent être choisies parmi les huiles volatiles et/ou les huiles non volatiles. Dans le contexte de cette description, on entend par "huile" un composé liquide à température ambiante
(25°C) et pression atmosphérique (105 Pa) qui, lorsqu'il est introduit à raison d'au moins 1% en poids dans l'eau à 25°C, n'est pas du tout soluble dans l'eau, ou soluble à hauteur de moins de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids d'huile introduit dans l'eau. Par "huile volatile", on entend une huile ayant une pression de vapeur de l'ordre de 0,001 à 300 mm Hg et de préférence de 0,01 à 10 mm Hg àtempérature ambiante (20°C) et pression atmosphérique. Avantageusement, ces huiles présentent en outre un point éclair (mesuré selon la norme ASTM D93) inférieur à 100°C, de préférence compris entre 50 et 95°C, par exemple entre 70 et 90°C, voire entre 80 et 90°C et/ou une viscosité cinématique inférieure à 5 cSt, voire comprise entre 1 et 3 cSt, à40°C. The oils can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils. In the context of this description, "oil" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature. (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa) which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25°C, is not at all soluble in water , or soluble up to less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water. By “volatile oil”, is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of the order of 0.001 to 300 mm Hg and preferably of 0.01 to 10 mm Hg at ambient temperature (20° C.) and atmospheric pressure. Advantageously, these oils also have a flash point (measured according to the ASTM D93 standard) of less than 100° C., preferably between 50 and 95° C., for example between 70 and 90° C., or even between 80 and 90° C. and/or a kinematic viscosity of less than 5 cSt, or even between 1 and 3 cSt, at 40°C.
Des exemples d'huiles volatiles sont les alcanes ramifiés, tels que l'isododécane, et les alcanes linéaires en C10-C13. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes.
Comme huiles non volatiles, on peut citer notamment : As non-volatile oils, mention may be made in particular of:
- les esters d'acides et de mono-alcool choisis parmi : les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C2-C10 (de préférence en C6-C10) et de mono-alcools linéaires saturés en C10-C18 (de préférence C10-C14), les mono- et polyesters d'acides linéaires saturés en C10-C20 et de mono-alcools ramifiés ou insaturés en C3-C20 (de préférence C3-C10) ; les mono- et polyesters d'acides ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 et de mono-alcools ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 ; les mono- et polyesters d'acides ramifiés ou insaturés en C5-C20 et de mono-alcools linéaires en C2-C4 ; - esters of acids and of mono-alcohol chosen from: mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C2-C10 acids (preferably C6-C10) and of saturated linear C10-C18 mono-alcohols (preferably C10-C14), mono- and polyesters of saturated linear C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 mono-alcohols (preferably C3-C10); mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and of linear C2-C4 mono-alcohols;
- les triglycérides d'acides gras en C6-C12, tels que les triglycérides d'acides caprylique et caprique et la triheptanoïne ; - C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides, such as caprylic and capric acid triglycerides and triheptanoin;
- les acides gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés en C10-C20 (tels que les acides oléique et linoléique) ;- branched and/or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as oleic and linoleic acids);
- les alcools gras ramifiés et/ou insaturés en C10-C20 (tels que l'octyldodécanol et l'alcool oléylique) ; - branched and/or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol);
- les hydrocarbures tels que le squalane (C30), notamment le squalane végétal extrait de l'huile d'olive, et l'hémisqualane (Cl 5) ; - hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl 5);
- les carbonates de dialkyle, tels que le dicaprylyl carbonate et le diéthylhexyl carbonate ;- dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;
- les dialkyléthers tels que le dicaprylyl éther ; et - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; And
- leurs mélanges. - their mixtures.
Comme esters d'acides et de monoalcools, on peut notamment citer les monoesters tels que le mélange de caprate et caprylate de coco, le macadamiate d'éthyle, l'ester éthylique de beurre de karité, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l'isononanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'hexyle, le néopentanoate d'éthylhexyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, le
néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le myristate d'octyldodécyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthylhexyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le laurate d'isoamyle, le nonanoate de cétostéaryle, le caprylate de propylheptyle et leurs mélanges. D'autres esters utilisables sont les diesters d'acides dicarboxyliques et de monoalcools tels que l'adipate de diisopropyle, l'adipate de diéthylhexyle, le sébaçate de diisopropyle et le sébaçate de diisoamyle. As esters of acids and of monoalcohols, mention may in particular be made of monoesters such as the mixture of caprate and caprylate of coconut, ethyl macadamiate, ethyl ester of shea butter, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl caprylate and their mixtures. Other esters which can be used are the diesters of dicarboxylic acids and of monoalcohols such as diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.
On peut également citer les huiles végétales qui contiennent un ou plusieurs des constituants précités. Mention may also be made of vegetable oils which contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents.
Des exemples d'huiles végétales sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, d'argan, d'hibiscus, de coriandre, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de courge, de cassis, d'onagre, de lavande, de bourrache, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat, d'Echium, de cameline ou de camélia. Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, Echium, camelina or camellia.
On préfère selon l’invention utiliser exclusivement des huiles non volatiles et plus préférentiellement, parmi celles-ci, des huiles hydrocarbonées. Celles-ci ne renferment de préférence que des atomes de carbone, d’hydrogène et éventuellement d’oxygène et sont avantageusement choisies parmi les esters d’acides gras et les huiles végétales. En tout état de cause, on préfère que la composition ne renferme pas d’huile de silicone ni d’autre composé siliconé. Les huiles peuvent représenter de 1 à 25% et de préférence de 1 à 10% du poids total de la composition. It is preferred according to the invention to use exclusively non-volatile oils and more preferably, among these, hydrocarbon oils. These preferably contain only carbon, hydrogen and optionally oxygen atoms and are advantageously chosen from fatty acid esters and vegetable oils. In any case, it is preferred that the composition does not contain silicone oil or any other silicone compound. The oils can represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 1 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l’invention comprend par ailleurs de préférence au moins un structurant de phase grasse. The composition according to the invention also preferably comprises at least one fatty phase structuring agent.
Par "structurant de phase grasse", on entend un composé capable d'épaissir les huiles contenues dans la composition, choisi notamment parmi les cires, les gélifiants de phase grasse et les corps gras pâteux, ainsi que leurs mélanges. By “fatty phase structuring agent”, is meant a compound capable of thickening the oils contained in the composition, chosen in particular from waxes, fatty phase gelling agents and pasty fatty substances, as well as mixtures thereof.
Le terme "cire" désigne, dans le contexte de cette description, un corps gras solide à 25°C, à changement d'état solide / liquide réversible, ayant un point de fusion généralement compris entre 30 et 160°C, de préférence entre 50 et 90°C, tel que mesuré par DSC. Des exemples de
cires sont en particulier les cires d'origine animale ou végétale, telles que les cires d'abeille, d'insecte de Chine, de candelilla, de carnauba ou d'acacia ; les huiles végétales hydrogénées, notamment les huiles de colza, de soja, de tournesol, de jojoba, de coprah et de ricin hydrogénées ; les esters d'acides gras linéaires saturés en C14-C30 et d'alcools gras linéaires saturés en C16-C36 ; les acides linéaires et saturés en C10-C30 ; les alcools linéaires et saturés en C10-C30 ; et leurs mélanges. The term "wax" designates, in the context of this description, a fatty substance that is solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point generally between 30 and 160°C, preferably between 50 and 90°C, as measured by DSC. examples of waxes are in particular waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as bee, Chinese insect, candelilla, carnauba or acacia waxes; hydrogenated vegetable oils, in particular hydrogenated rapeseed, soya, sunflower, jojoba, copra and castor oils; esters of saturated linear C14-C30 fatty acids and saturated linear C16-C36 fatty alcohols; linear and saturated C10-C30 acids; linear and saturated C10-C30 alcohols; and their mixtures.
Les cires peuvent représenter de 1 à 10% en poids, et de préférence de 2 à 8% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The waxes can represent from 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Par "gélifiants de phase grasse", il est fait référence aux composés modifiant la rhéologie de la phase grasse par formation d'un réseau tridimensionnel. Les composés de ce type utilisés selon l'invention sont les argiles (en particulier les bentonites et les hectorites) modifiées hydrophobes, notamment par du chlorure de distéaryl di-méthyl ammonium ; les silices pyrogénées modifiées hydrophobes ; le palmitate et le myristate de dextrine ; les mélanges de glycérides d'acides gras (de préférence linéaires et saturés) en C16-C26 tels que le composé Nomcort® HKG ou les triesters d'acides gras linéaires et saturés en Cs-Cso, éventuellement hydroxylés, et de mono- ou polyglycérol, tels que le trihydroxystéarate de glycérol ; les dérivés de cellulose ; et leurs mélanges. By “fatty phase gelling agents”, reference is made to compounds modifying the rheology of the fatty phase by forming a three-dimensional network. The compounds of this type used according to the invention are clays (in particular bentonites and hectorites) modified hydrophobically, in particular with distearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride; hydrophobic modified fumed silicas; dextrin palmitate and myristate; mixtures of C16-C26 (preferably linear and saturated) fatty acid glycerides, such as the compound Nomcort® HKG or the triesters of linear and saturated Cs-Cso fatty acids, optionally hydroxylated, and mono- or polyglycerol , such as glycerol trihydroxystearate; cellulose derivatives; and their mixtures.
Le gélifiant de phase grasse comprend avantageusement au moins un triester de glycérol et d'acide hydroxy stéarique, de préférence le triester d'acide 12-hydroxystéarique et de glycérol, identifié par le nom INCI "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN" et qui est notamment disponible dans le commerce auprès de la société Elementis Specialties sous la dénomination commerciale Thixcin® R. The fatty phase gelling agent advantageously comprises at least one triester of glycerol and of hydroxystearic acid, preferably the triester of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of glycerol, identified by the INCI name "TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN" and which is in particular commercially available. from Elementis Specialties under the trade name Thixcin® R.
Enfin, les corps gras pâteux utilisables comme structurants de phase grasse sont définis comme des corps gras à changement d'état liquide / solide réversible, présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope et comportant à une température de 23°C une fraction liquide et une fraction solide. En d'autres termes, la température de fusion commençante du corps gras pâteux peut être inférieure à 23 °C. La fraction liquide du corps gras pâteux mesurée à 23 °C peut représenter 9 à 97 % en poids du corps gras pâteux. Cette fraction liquide à 23 °C représente de préférence entre 15 et 85 %, de préférence encore entre 40 et 85 % en poids du corps gras pâteux.
Au sens de l'invention, la température de fusion correspond à la température du pic le plus endothermique telle que décrite dans la norme ISO 11357-3 ; 1999 et mesurée à l'aide d'un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (DSC). La fraction liquide en poids du corps gras pâteux à 23 °C est égale au rapport de l'enthalpie de fusion consommée à 23 °C pour passer de l'état solide à l'état liquide sur l'enthalpie de fusion du corps gras pâteux. Finally, the pasty fatty substances that can be used as fatty phase structuring agents are defined as fatty substances with a reversible liquid/solid state change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be lower than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999 and measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to pass from the solid state to the liquid state to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance .
Le corps gras pâteux peut être notamment choisi parmi : The pasty fatty substance may in particular be chosen from:
- les éthers de polyol tels que les éthers de pentaérythritol et de polyalkylène glycol, - polyol ethers such as pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers,
- les esters de polyols et plus particulièrement : (a) les esters de polyglycérol, notamment les condensais d'acide adipique et de glycérol, pour lesquels une partie des groupes hydroxyles des glycérols ont réagi avec un mélange d'acides gras tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide caprique, l'acide stéarique, l'acide isostéarique et l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique, tels que le produit commercialisé sous la marque Softisan® 649 par la société SASOL, ou encore un ester de polyglycérol (obtenu par condensation de deux à dix, de préférence de trois ou quatre, motifs glycérol) et d'un acide gras renfermant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, tel que le polygycéryl-3 polyricinoléate, (b) les esters de pentaérythritol, (c) les esters de dimère diol et dimère diacide, le cas échéant, estérifiés sur leur(s) fonction(s) alcool(s) ou acide(s) libre(s), notamment les esters dimer dilinoléate tels que le bis-béhényl/isostéaryl/phytostéryl dimerdilinoléyle dimerdilinoléate (Plandool® G de LIPO CHEMICALS), le phytostéryl isostéaryl dimerdilinoléate (Lusplan® PI-DA, Lusplan® PHY/IS-DA de NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL), le phytostéryl/isostéryl/cétyl/stéaryl/béhényl dimerdilinoléate (Plandool® H ou Plandool® S de LIPO CHEMICALS), - polyol esters and more particularly: (a) polyglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as the product marketed under the brand name Softisan® 649 by the company SASOL, or else a polyglycerol ester (obtained by condensation of two to ten, preferably three or four, glycerol units) and a fatty acid containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as polygyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, (b) pentaerythritol esters, (c) diol dimer esters and diacid dimer esters, where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol(s) or free acid(s) function(s), in particular dilinoleate dimer esters such as bis-behenyl/isostearyl /phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool® G from LIPO CHEMICALS), phytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan® PI-DA, Lusplan® PHY/IS-DA from NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL), phytosteryl/isosteryl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool ® H or Plandool® S from LIPO CHEMICALS),
- le propionate d'arachidyle commercialisé sous la marque Waxenol® 801 par ALZO,- arachidyl propionate marketed under the Waxenol® 801 brand by ALZO,
- les esters de phytostérol, - phytosterol esters,
- les beurres végétaux, notamment les beurres de karité, de cacao et de mangue et préférentiellement le beurre de karité, - vegetable butters, in particular shea, cocoa and mango butters and preferably shea butter,
- et leurs mélanges. - and mixtures thereof.
On préfère que les structurants de phase grasse soient constitués d’un mélange d’au moins une cire, de préférence choisie parmi les alcools gras, les huiles végétales hydrogénées et leurs mélanges, et d’au moins un corps gras pâteux, avantageusement choisi parmi les beurres végétaux.
Les structurants de phase grasse peuvent représenter de 1 à 25% et de préférence de 5 à 15% du poids de la composition. It is preferred that the fatty phase structurants consist of a mixture of at least one wax, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof, and of at least one pasty fatty substance, advantageously chosen from vegetable butters. The fatty phase structurants can represent from 1 to 25% and preferably from 5 to 15% of the weight of the composition.
Phase aqueuse Aqueous phase
La phase aqueuse de la composition selon l’invention renferme de l’eau, représentant par exemple de 40 à 90% en poids et de préférence de 60 à 75% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention contains water, representing for example from 40 to 90% by weight and preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Elle renferme avantageusement en outre au moins un polymère épaississant, qui peut notamment être choisi parmi les polysaccharides, en particulier l’acide hyaluronique et les gommes végétales, telles que la gomme de xanthane ou de caroube ; les polymères non ioniques ou anioniques à base d’acide (méth)acrylique, ses sels ou ses esters et/ou d’acide 2-acrylamido- 2-méthylpropane sulfonique (AMPS), tels que les copolymères désignés sous les nom INCI ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 MATHACRYLATE COPOLYMER et HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER. It advantageously also contains at least one thickening polymer, which can in particular be chosen from polysaccharides, in particular hyaluronic acid and vegetable gums, such as xanthan or locust bean gum; nonionic or anionic polymers based on (meth)acrylic acid, its salts or its esters and/or 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), such as the copolymers designated under the INCI name ACRYLATES / BEHENETH-25 MATHACRYLATE COPOLYMER and HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER.
La composition selon l’invention présente généralement un pH allant de 4 à 7, plus préférentiellement de 4,5 à 6. The composition according to the invention generally has a pH ranging from 4 to 7, more preferably from 4.5 to 6.
Système conservateur Conservative system
La composition selon l’invention renferme un système conservateur particulier comprenant, de préférence constitué de : The composition according to the invention contains a particular preservative system comprising, preferably consisting of:
(a) de 1 à 10% en poids d’au moins deux diols renfermant de trois à six atomes de carbone,(a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six carbon atoms,
(b) de 0,05 à 0,35% en poids de caprylate de glycéryle, (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate,
(c) de 0,05 à 0,25% en poids d’au moins un éther de glycérol, (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether,
(d) éventuellement au moins un diol renfermant de sept à dix atomes de carbone. (d) optionally at least one diol containing seven to ten carbon atoms.
Par « diol », on entend un composé à structure hydrocarbonée, ne renfermant que des atomes de carbone et d’hydrogène, substituée par deux groupes hydroxyles uniquement. Leur structure hydrocarbonée est avantageusement acyclique et saturée, et généralement linéaire. Des exemples de diols renfermant de trois à six atomes de carbone sont choisis parmi le 1,3- propanediol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol et l’hexylène glycol, de préférence ils sont constitués d’un mélange de 1,3-propanediol et de pentylène glycol. De
leur côté, les diols renfermant de sept à dix atomes de carbone peuvent notamment être choisis parmi le caprylyl glycol et le décanediol, de préférence le caprylyl glycol. By “diol”, is meant a compound with a hydrocarbon structure, containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms, substituted by two hydroxyl groups only. Their hydrocarbon structure is advantageously acyclic and saturated, and generally linear. Examples of diols containing three to six carbon atoms are chosen from 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol, preferably they consist of a mixture of 1 ,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. Of for their part, the diols containing from seven to ten carbon atoms can in particular be chosen from caprylyl glycol and decanediol, preferably caprylyl glycol.
Ces diols sont associés à du caprylate de glycéryle, ainsi qu’à au moins un éther de glycérol, qui peut notamment comprendre, voire être constitué du glycérol (2-éthylhexyl) éther identifié sous le nom INCI ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN. These diols are combined with glyceryl caprylate, as well as with at least one glycerol ether, which may in particular comprise or even consist of glycerol (2-ethylhexyl) ether identified under the INCI name ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN.
Les constituants (a) à (c) représentent au moins 4% en poids et le constituant (d), lorsqu’il est présent, représente moins de 0,1% en poids, ces pourcentages étant exprimés par rapport au poids total de la composition. Components (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and component (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, these percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.
Gaz Gas
La composition selon l’invention renferme en outre au moins un gaz, qui peut notamment être choisi parmi l’air, l’azote, l’oxygène et le dioxyde de carbone, ainsi que leurs mélanges. L’air et l’azote sont préférés pour une utilisation dans la présente invention. The composition according to the invention also contains at least one gas, which can in particular be chosen from air, nitrogen, oxygen and carbon dioxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Air and nitrogen are preferred for use in the present invention.
La composition se présente ainsi sous la forme d’une émulsion dans laquelle sont piégées des bulles de gaz présentant par exemple une taille de 0,5 à 50pm. Contrairement aux compositions distribuées dans un aérosol, dans lesquelles la mousse se forme uniquement au moment de l’utilisation, la composition selon l’invention peut être conditionnée sous forme de mousse et stockée sous cette forme pendant plusieurs mois dans son conditionnement. Dans une forme d'exécution préférée de l'invention, la composition selon l'invention est conditionnée dans un pot ou un tube. The composition is thus in the form of an emulsion in which are trapped gas bubbles having for example a size of 0.5 to 50 μm. Unlike the compositions distributed in an aerosol, in which the foam forms only at the time of use, the composition according to the invention can be packaged in the form of a foam and stored in this form for several months in its packaging. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is packaged in a jar or a tube.
En raison de la présence du gaz précité au sein de sa structure, la composition présente une densité comprise entre 0,40 et 0,9 g/cm3 et de préférence entre 0,5 et 0,8 g/cm3. La densité peut être mesurée de manière classique en utilisant un pycnomètre ou bêcher de volume connu. Le taux de foisonnement <I> de la composition est défini comme l'augmentation du volume de composition dû à l'incorporation de la phase gaz et illustré par la formule suivante : = Ip — pa) / pt» J * 100 où pc est la densité de la composition avant foisonnement et pm est sa densité après foisonnement.
Le taux de foisonnement de la composition selon l’invention est généralement compris entre 10 et 150%. Il est de préférence d’au moins 40%, plus préférentiellement d’au moins 45%, voire d’au moins 50%, et généralement inférieur à 70%. Due to the presence of the aforementioned gas within its structure, the composition has a density of between 0.40 and 0.9 g/cm 3 and preferably between 0.5 and 0.8 g/cm 3 . Density can be measured conventionally using a pycnometer or beaker of known volume. The expansion ratio <I> of the composition is defined as the increase in the volume of composition due to the incorporation of the gas phase and illustrated by the following formula: = Ip — pa) / pt» J * 100 where p c is the density of the composition before expansion and p m is its density after expansion. The expansion rate of the composition according to the invention is generally between 10 and 150%. It is preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 45%, or even at least 50%, and generally less than 70%.
Autres constituants Other constituents
La composition utilisée selon l'invention peut par ailleurs comprendre un ou plusieurs autres constituants choisis par exemple parmi : les tensioactifs, de préférence choisis parmi les tensioactifs non ioniques, de type polymérique ou non polymérique ; les parfums ; les séquestrants ; les anti-oxydants ; les ajusteurs de pH ; les filtres UV ; les pigments ; les colorants, les nacres, les poudres à effet « soft-focus » et leurs mélanges. The composition used according to the invention may also comprise one or more other constituents chosen, for example, from: surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants, of polymeric or nonpolymeric type; the perfumes ; sequestrants; antioxidants; pH adjusters; UV filters; pigments; dyes, mother-of-pearl, "soft-focus" effect powders and their mixtures.
En variante ou en plus, la composition selon l’invention peut comprendre au moins une charge pulvérulente, destinée à améliorer son toucher, qui peut se présenter sous forme de microparticules poreuses ou creuses, de préférence poreuses. Ces microparticules sont en principe sensiblement sphériques. Ces charges peuvent notamment être choisies parmi : As a variant or in addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one powdery filler, intended to improve its feel, which may be in the form of porous or hollow, preferably porous, microparticles. These microparticles are in principle substantially spherical. These fillers may in particular be chosen from:
- les charges organiques telles que : les poudres de polysaccharides et en particulier d'amidon natif, d'amidon modifié ou de cellulose ; les poudres de polymères acryliques tels que le poly(méthacrylate de méthyle), de polyamides ou de polyoléfines ; les poudres d'algues séchées telles que Corallina officinalis ; - organic fillers such as: polysaccharide powders and in particular native starch, modified starch or cellulose; powders of acrylic polymers such as poly(methyl methacrylate), of polyamides or of polyolefins; dried seaweed powders such as Corallina officinalis;
- les charges inorganiques telles que la silice, les argiles, la perlite et le talc ; - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;
- et leurs mélanges. - and mixtures thereof.
Les amidons sont de préférence choisis parmi l'amidon de maïs, de riz, de tapioca ou de blé. Des exemples d'amidons modifiés sont les amidons éventuellement pré-gélatinisés et/ou oxydés, qui sont estérifiés par un anhydride alkénylsuccinique, notamment par l'anhydride octénylsuccinique ou dodécylsuccinique, éventuellement en présence de chlorure de calcium, ainsi que les amidons éthérifiés, notamment hydroxypropylés ou carboxyméthylés, et les amidons cationiques, notamment quatemisés. On peut également citer l'amidon réticulé par le trimétaphosphate de sodium. Les amidons, de préférence natifs, constituent des charges organiques préférées pour une utilisation dans cette invention. The starches are preferably chosen from corn, rice, tapioca or wheat starch. Examples of modified starches are optionally pre-gelatinized and/or oxidized starches, which are esterified with an alkenylsuccinic anhydride, in particular with octenylsuccinic or dodecylsuccinic anhydride, optionally in the presence of calcium chloride, as well as etherified starches, in particular hydroxypropylated or carboxymethylated, and cationic starches, in particular quaternized. Mention may also be made of starch crosslinked with sodium trimetaphosphate. Starches, preferably native, are preferred organic fillers for use in this invention.
Ces charges peuvent représenter de 0,05 à 10% en poids, et de préférence de 1 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
La composition peut également comprendre un ou plusieurs actifs hydratants et/ou apaisants, en plus des polyols déjà présents dans le système conservateurs, notamment de la glycérine, des polysaccharides tels que du beta-glucane, de l’acide hyaluronique, de l’urée, du tréhalose, le panthénol, l’allantoïne, l’acide bêta-glycyrrhétinique, les extraits en contenant (comme un extrait de Glycyrrhiza glabra), les planctons et leurs extraits, l’escine et les extraits végétaux en contenant (notamment de marron d’Inde), les extraits aqueux, hydroalcooliques ou hydrogly coliques de rose, de bleuet, de camomille, de tilleul, de pivoine, d’aubépine, de mauve, de souci, de mélilot, de sauge, de sureau, d’arnica, d’origan, de thé vert, d’iris, de nénuphar, d’écorce de bouleau, de fleur d’oranger ou d’aloe vera, l’acide asiatique et les extraits (notamment de Centella asiatica) en contenant, les extraits d’algues de type Laminaria, le pyrrolidone carboxylate de zinc ou de cuivre, les huiles essentielles de coriandre, mélisse, lavande, menthe ou camomille, l’acide ursolique et les extraits (notamment de romarin) en contenant, les insaponifiables de tournesol, les polysaccharides contenant du fucose, les acides aminés, leurs sels et leurs dérivés acylés, les galactolipides et les extraits végétaux (notamment d’avoine) en contenant, l’acide acexamique, l’acide tranexamique et leurs mélanges. These fillers can represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also comprise one or more moisturizing and/or soothing active agents, in addition to the polyols already present in the preservative system, in particular glycerin, polysaccharides such as beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid, urea , trehalose, panthenol, allantoin, beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts containing them (such as an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra), planktons and their extracts, escin and plant extracts containing them (in particular chestnut from India), aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, linden, peony, hawthorn, mallow, marigold, sweet clover, sage, elderberry, arnica , oregano, green tea, iris, water lily, birch bark, orange blossom or aloe vera, asiatic acid and extracts (in particular of Centella asiatica) containing it, extracts of Laminaria-type algae, zinc or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate, essential oils of coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint or chamomile, ursolic acid and extracts (especially rosemary) containing it, sunflower unsaponifiables , polysaccharides containing fucose, amino acids, their salts and their acylated derivatives, galactolipids and plant extracts (in particular of oats) containing them, acexamic acid, tranexamic acid and mixtures thereof.
Ces actifs hydratants représentent par exemple de 0,01 à 20% et de préférence de 0,3 à 8% du poids total de la composition. These hydrating active agents represent for example from 0.01 to 20% and preferably from 0.3 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
Procédé de préparation Preparation process
La composition décrite précédemment peut être préparée suivant un procédé comprenant les étapes successives suivantes : The composition described above can be prepared according to a process comprising the following successive steps:
- la préparation d’une émulsion à partir d’une phase aqueuse et d’une phase grasse, - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase,
- le refroidissement de l’émulsion à une température de 30 à 50°C, le cas échéant, - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary,
- l’introduction d’air dans ladite émulsion au moyen d’un mélangeur, jusqu’à atteindre un taux de foisonnement de 10 à 150%, - the introduction of air into the said emulsion by means of a mixer, until an expansion rate of 10 to 150% is reached,
- éventuellement, la maturation de la composition foisonnée ainsi obtenue. - optionally, the maturation of the expanded composition thus obtained.
L’émulsion peut être préparée de manière classique et notamment à une température de 70 à 90°C, auquel cas le procédé selon l’invention comprend une étape ultérieure de refroidissement avant introduction d’air. En variante, elle peut être préparée à une température inférieure ou égale à 50°C, de sorte que cette étape n’est pas nécessaire.
L’introduction de gaz dans la composition est réalisée dans un mélangeur, comprenant typiquement des moyens d’agitation mécanique et des moyens d’amenée de gaz. Des mélangeurs de ce type sont notamment les systèmes d’aération tels que ceux disponibles auprès de la société HAAS sous la dénomination commerciale Mondomix®. Il peut être avantageux de prévoir une étape de maturation de la composition avant foisonnement, à une température de 30 à 50°C, pendant une durée d’au moins 12h, par exemple d’au moins 24h, voire d'au moins 2 jours, voire encore d’au moins 6 jours. The emulsion can be prepared in a conventional manner and in particular at a temperature of 70 to 90° C., in which case the process according to the invention comprises a subsequent step of cooling before introducing air. As a variant, it can be prepared at a temperature lower than or equal to 50° C., so that this step is not necessary. The introduction of gas into the composition is carried out in a mixer, typically comprising means of mechanical agitation and means of supplying gas. Mixers of this type are in particular aeration systems such as those available from the company HAAS under the trade name Mondomix®. It may be advantageous to provide a stage of maturation of the composition before expansion, at a temperature of 30 to 50° C., for a period of at least 12 hours, for example at least 24 hours, or even at least 2 days. , or even at least 6 days.
Utilisation Use
La composition selon l’invention peut être utilisée, par application topique sur la peau, pour prévenir ou traiter les signes du dessèchement cutané, notamment pour nourrir et/ou assouplir la peau. En variante, elle peut être utilisée pour nourrir les cheveux, en particulier les pointes. La composition selon l'invention peut ainsi être appliquée sur toutes zones du corps et des cheveux chez l’adulte et l’enfant, plus particulièrement sur le visage, le cou et/ou le décolleté, ou sur les zones plus sèches telles que les coudes, les genoux, les pieds, les mains, les cheveux et/ou les lèvres. Elle peut être appliquée à raison d'une à deux fois par jour, de préférence matin et/ou soir. The composition according to the invention can be used, by topical application to the skin, to prevent or treat the signs of skin dryness, in particular to nourish and/or soften the skin. Alternatively, it can be used to nourish the hair, especially the ends. The composition according to the invention can thus be applied to all areas of the body and hair in adults and children, more particularly to the face, neck and/or décolleté, or to drier areas such as the elbows, knees, feet, hands, hair and/or lips. It can be applied once or twice a day, preferably morning and/or evening.
La composition selon l'invention peut ainsi être mise en oeuvre suivant un procédé comprenant les étapes consistant à : The composition according to the invention can thus be implemented according to a process comprising the steps consisting in:
- appliquer la composition sur la peau et/ou les cheveux (de préférence la peau), généralement à la main, - apply the composition to the skin and/or the hair (preferably the skin), generally by hand,
- éventuellement, appliquer un produit de maquillage par-dessus la composition, - optionally, apply a make-up product over the composition,
- après une durée de 2 à 48h, de préférence de 5 à 36h, plus préférentiellement de 8 à 24h, nettoyer la peau et/ou les cheveux. - after a period of 2 to 48 hours, preferably 5 to 36 hours, more preferably 8 to 24 hours, cleanse the skin and/or the hair.
FIGURES FIGURES
La Figure 1 illustre l’aspect en sortie du dispositif de foisonnement, et dans le pot, d’une crème préparée à l’aide d’un système conservateur selon l’invention. Figure 1 illustrates the appearance at the output of the expansion device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a preservative system according to the invention.
La Figure 2 illustre l’aspect en sortie du dispositif de foisonnement, et dans le pot, d’une crème préparée à l’aide d’un système conservateur comparatif.
EXEMPLES Figure 2 illustrates the appearance at the outlet of the expansion device, and in the pot, of a cream prepared using a comparative preservative system. EXAMPLES
L’invention sera mieux comprise à la lumière des exemples suivants, qui sont donnés à titre purement illustratif et n’ont pas pour but de limiter la portée de l’invention, définie par les revendications annexées. The invention will be better understood in the light of the following examples, which are given for purely illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.
Exemple 1 : Préparation d'une composition selon l'invention Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the invention
On a préparé de manière classique une émulsion H/E à partir des constituants indiqués ci- dessous, utilisés dans les proportions suivantes (les constituants en majuscules sont désignés par leurs noms INCI) : An O/W emulsion was prepared in a conventional manner from the constituents indicated below, used in the following proportions (the constituents in capital letters are designated by their INCI names):
L’émulsion ainsi obtenue a été étuvée entre 25 et 45°C puis transférée dans un dispositif de type Mondomix® (HAAS) pourvu d’une pompe d’alimentation, d’une tête de mélange permettant de cisailler la composition et d’y introduire un gaz et d’une vanne de contre-
pression. Les paramètres de l’appareil ont été réglés pour obtenir un taux de foisonnement compris entre 45 et 55%. The emulsion thus obtained was steamed between 25 and 45° C. then transferred to a device of the Mondomix® (HAAS) type provided with a feed pump, a mixing head making it possible to shear the composition and to introduce a gas and a counter valve pressure. The parameters of the device were adjusted to obtain an expansion rate of between 45 and 55%.
La composition obtenue présentait la texture d’une crème de couleur blanche d’aspect aéré. The composition obtained had the texture of a white cream with an airy appearance.
Exemple 2 : Tests microbiologiques et de foisonnement Example 2: Microbiological and expansion tests
On a préparé différentes compositions cosmétiques similaires à celle décrite àl’Exemple 1, qui ont été soumises à un test microbiologique et à un test de foisonnement, respectivement. Various cosmetic compositions similar to that described in Example 1 were prepared, which were subjected to a microbiological test and an overrun test, respectively.
Test microbiologique Microbiological test
On a réalisé un « challenge test » visant à évaluer l’efficacité du système conservateur selon l’invention par rapport à des systèmes conservateurs proches. Pour ce faire, les compositions testées ont été contaminées avec des microorganismes présents sur la peau, puis on a suivi l’évolution de ces micro-organismes pendant 28 jours à 32,5°C, conformément à la norme ISO 11930 :2012. A “challenge test” aimed at evaluating the effectiveness of the preservative system according to the invention compared to similar preservative systems was carried out. To do this, the compositions tested were contaminated with microorganisms present on the skin, then the evolution of these microorganisms was monitored for 28 days at 32.5°C, in accordance with the ISO 11930:2012 standard.
Test de foisonnement Expansion test
On a incorporé de l’air dans les compositions testées, dans une installation pilote, jusqu’à atteindre un taux de foisonnement de 50 ± 5%. Air was incorporated into the compositions tested, in a pilot plant, until an expansion rate of 50 ± 5% was reached.
On a ensuite observé l’aspect de la composition en sortie du mélangeur. The appearance of the composition at the outlet of the mixer was then observed.
Le foisonnement était considéré comme conforme lorsque la formule s’écoulait de façon homogène et présentait un aspect lisse, aucune bulle d’air n’étant visible. The overrun was considered compliant when the formula flowed evenly and had a smooth appearance, with no air bubbles visible.
Le foisonnement était considéré comme non conforme lorsque la formule s’écoulait de façon hétérogène, du fait de l’introduction de grosses bulles d’air dans la crème.
The expansion was considered non-compliant when the formula flowed unevenly, due to the introduction of large air bubbles into the cream.
Résultats Results
Comme il ressort du Tableau 2, la Composition Cl selon l’invention satisfait aux attendus en terme de propriétés microbiologiques et d’aptitude au foisonnement. La Figure 1 illustre l’aspect de la Composition Cl en sortie du dispositif de foisonnement et dans le pot. As shown in Table 2, Composition Cl according to the invention satisfies the expectations in terms of microbiological properties and ability to expand. Figure 1 illustrates the appearance of Composition Cl at the outlet of the expansion device and in the pot.
En revanche, les compositions Al à A4, qui sont dépourvues de l’un des constituants du système conservateur selon l’invention, ne satisfont pas aux exigences du challenge test. Il en est de même de la composition A5 qui contient ces constituants en quantité insuffisante. On the other hand, compositions A1 to A4, which are devoid of one of the constituents of the preservative system according to the invention, do not meet the requirements of the challenge test. The same applies to composition A5 which contains these constituents in insufficient quantity.
De son côté, le Tableau 3 montre qu’il est possible d’ajouter du caprylyl glycol à la composition Cl selon l’invention (Composition C2) sans nuire aux propriétés de conservation et de foisonnement recherchées, pour autant qu’il ne soit pas présent en trop grande quantité (Composition A7). En revanche, la quantité de diols renfermant de 3 à 6 atomes de carbone peut être augmentée sans nuire au foisonnement (Compositions C3 et C4). En outre, l’éther de glycérol (ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN) présent dans la composition selon l’invention doit être utilisé en faible quantité, afin de ne pas nuire à l’aptitude la composition au foisonnement (Composition A6). La Figure 2 illustre l’aspect de la Composition A6 en sortie du dispositif de foisonnement et dans le pot. For its part, Table 3 shows that it is possible to add caprylyl glycol to composition C1 according to the invention (Composition C2) without harming the desired preservation and expansion properties, provided that it is not present in too large a quantity (Composition A7). On the other hand, the quantity of diols containing from 3 to 6 carbon atoms can be increased without adversely affecting the expansion (Compositions C3 and C4). In addition, the glycerol ether (ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERIN) present in the composition according to the invention must be used in small quantities, so as not to harm the ability of the composition to expand (Composition A6). Figure 2 illustrates the appearance of Composition A6 at the outlet of the expansion device and in the pot.
Exemple 3 : Composition corporelle hydratante Example 3: Moisturizing body composition
On a préparé une émulsion en mélangeant les ingrédients ci-dessous de manière classique pour l'homme du métier : An emulsion was prepared by mixing the ingredients below in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art:
Beurre végétal 3-6 % Vegetable butter 3-6%
Huiles 8-15 % Oils 8-15%
Charges 1,5-3 % Fillers 1.5-3%
Polymères épaississants 3-5% Thickening polymers 3-5%
Caprylate de glycéryle 0,2-0, 3 % Glyceryl Caprylate 0.2-0.3%
Ethylhexyl glycérine 0,1 -0,2 % Ethylhexyl glycerin 0.1 -0.2%
Diols en C3-C6 3,7-5 % C3-C6 diols 3.7-5%
Glycérine 2,5-5 % Glycerin 2.5-5%
Actifs hydratants 0,5-2 % Moisturizing actives 0.5-2%
Ajusteur de pH qs pH adjuster qs
Parfum qs Perfume qs
Eau qsp 100 %
Après refroidissement, l'émulsion a été foisonnée comme décrit dans l'Exemple 1. On a ainsi obtenu une composition cosmétique adaptée à être appliquée sur l'ensemble du corps et qui a été jugée bien hydratante par un panel de consommateurs.
Water qs 100% After cooling, the emulsion was aerated as described in Example 1. A cosmetic composition suitable for being applied to the whole of the body and which was judged to be very moisturizing by a panel of consumers was thus obtained.
Claims
1. Composition cosmétique foisonnée non rincée comprenant une phase grasse, une phase aqueuse, au moins un gaz, ladite composition renfermant un système conservateur comprenant :1. Leave-in expanded cosmetic composition comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, at least one gas, said composition containing a preservative system comprising:
(a) de 1 à 10% en poids d’au moins deux diols renfermant de trois à six atomes de carbone,(a) from 1 to 10% by weight of at least two diols containing from three to six carbon atoms,
(b) de 0,05 à 0,35% en poids de caprylate de glycéryle, (b) from 0.05 to 0.35% by weight of glyceryl caprylate,
(c) de 0,05 à 0,25% en poids d’au moins un éther de glycérol, (c) from 0.05 to 0.25% by weight of at least one glycerol ether,
(d) éventuellement au moins un diol renfermant de sept à dix atomes de carbone, étant entendu que les constituants (a) à (c) représentent au moins 4% en poids et que le constituant (d), lorsqu’il est présent, représente moins de 0,1% en poids, les pourcentages ci-dessus étant exprimés par rapport au poids total de la composition. (d) optionally at least one diol containing seven to ten carbon atoms, it being understood that constituents (a) to (c) represent at least 4% by weight and that constituent (d), when present, represents less than 0.1% by weight, the above percentages being expressed relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que les diols renfermant de trois à six atomes de carbone sont choisis parmi le 1,3-propanediol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol et l’hexylène glycol, de préférence ils sont constitués d’un mélange de 1,3-propanediol et de pentylène glycol. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the diols containing three to six carbon atoms are chosen from 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol, from preferably they consist of a mixture of 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que le diol renfermant de sept à dix atomes de carbone est choisi parmi le caprylyl glycol et le décanediol, de préférence le caprylyl glycol. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the diol containing seven to ten carbon atoms is chosen from caprylyl glycol and decanediol, preferably caprylyl glycol.
4. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que la phase grasse renferme au moins une huile et au moins un structurant de phase grasse. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one oil and at least one fatty phase structuring agent.
5. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que la phase aqueuse renferme au moins un polymère épaississant. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the aqueous phase contains at least one thickening polymer.
6. Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce qu’elle présente un taux de foisonnement d’au moins 40%, voire d’au moins 50%. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has an expansion rate of at least 40%, or even at least 50%.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que le système conservateur est constitué des ingrédients (a) à (c), et éventuellement (d).
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the preservative system consists of ingredients (a) to (c), and optionally (d).
8. Procédé de préparation de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend les étapes successives suivantes : 8. Process for preparing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it comprises the following successive steps:
- la préparation d’une émulsion à partir d’une phase aqueuse et d’une phase grasse, - the preparation of an emulsion from an aqueous phase and a fatty phase,
- le refroidissement de l’émulsion à une température de 30 à 50°C, le cas échéant, - l’introduction d’air dans ladite émulsion au moyen d’un mélangeur, jusqu’à atteindre un taux de foisonnement de 10 à 150%, - cooling the emulsion to a temperature of 30 to 50°C, if necessary, - introducing air into said emulsion by means of a mixer, until an expansion rate of 10 to 150 %,
- éventuellement, la maturation de la composition foisonnée ainsi obtenue. - optionally, the maturation of the expanded composition thus obtained.
9. Utilisation cosmétique de la composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, pour prévenir et/ou traiter les signes du dessèchement cutané, notamment pour nourrir et/ou assouplir la peau du visage ou du corps, de préférence du corps.
9. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for preventing and/or treating the signs of skin dryness, in particular for nourishing and/or softening the skin of the face or of the body, preferably of the body.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FRFR2113941 | 2021-12-20 | ||
FR2113941A FR3130579A1 (en) | 2021-12-20 | 2021-12-20 | Abundant cosmetic composition |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2023117730A1 true WO2023117730A1 (en) | 2023-06-29 |
Family
ID=80933926
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2022/086274 WO2023117730A1 (en) | 2021-12-20 | 2022-12-16 | Expanded cosmetic composition |
Country Status (2)
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FR (1) | FR3130579A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023117730A1 (en) |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE102017212647A1 (en) | 2017-07-24 | 2019-01-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Active ingredient combinations of N- (4-amino-2-methylquinolin-6-yl) -2 - ((4-ethylphenoxy) methyl) and one or more cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable preservatives and / or preservatives |
CN111346015A (en) | 2020-03-12 | 2020-06-30 | 广州艾卓生物科技有限公司 | Cosmetic composition and method for preparing the same |
WO2020160742A1 (en) | 2019-02-04 | 2020-08-13 | Symrise Ag | Active agents for skin and hair care with sensory modifying properties |
Family Cites Families (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
AU1622501A (en) | 1999-11-23 | 2001-06-04 | Porex Corporation | Immobilized ion exchange materials and processes for making the same |
-
2021
- 2021-12-20 FR FR2113941A patent/FR3130579A1/en active Pending
-
2022
- 2022-12-16 WO PCT/EP2022/086274 patent/WO2023117730A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE102017212647A1 (en) | 2017-07-24 | 2019-01-24 | Beiersdorf Ag | Active ingredient combinations of N- (4-amino-2-methylquinolin-6-yl) -2 - ((4-ethylphenoxy) methyl) and one or more cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable preservatives and / or preservatives |
WO2020160742A1 (en) | 2019-02-04 | 2020-08-13 | Symrise Ag | Active agents for skin and hair care with sensory modifying properties |
CN111346015A (en) | 2020-03-12 | 2020-06-30 | 广州艾卓生物科技有限公司 | Cosmetic composition and method for preparing the same |
Non-Patent Citations (2)
Title |
---|
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 20 September 2017 (2017-09-20), ANONYMOUS: "Therapy Mask", XP055953630, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/5067713/ Database accession no. 5067713 * |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 23 December 2019 (2019-12-23), ANONYMOUS: "Divine Mousse", XP055953596, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/7146571/ Database accession no. 7146571 * |
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