FR3120190A1 - cosmetic stick compositions, use of the cosmetic stick composition, and manufacturing process of the cosmetic stick composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic stick compositions, use of the cosmetic stick composition and process for manufacturing the cosmetic stick composition The present invention relates to a cosmetic stick composition comprising a fatty compound, a surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant active ingredients, talc and pearlite. The cosmetic stick composition of the present invention provides a product of desired hardness, stability and sensoriality. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic stick composition and the manufacturing process of the cosmetic stick composition. Figure for abstract: Figure 1

Description

cosmetic stick compositions, use of the cosmetic stick composition, and manufacturing process of the cosmetic stick composition

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a stick cosmetic composition comprising a fatty compound, a surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant active agents, talc and perlite. The cosmetic stick composition of the present invention provides a product with the desired hardness, stability and sensoriality. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic stick composition and to the process for manufacturing the cosmetic stick composition.

background of the invention

Sweating, although a natural bodily function, causes wet spots to form on human skin and/or clothing. In addition, the sweat secreted by the sweat glands tends to form a bad odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms that reside on the surface of the skin, especially the underarm skin. Both of these phenomena are considered undesirable in many societies.

There are commonly available products that help combat both of these phenomena. Specifically, anti-perspirant products have ingredients that inhibit/suppress perspiration, while anti-perspirant and deodorant products have ingredients that mask bad odors caused by sweat. Many products treat both phenomena simultaneously.

Active antiperspirants and deodorants generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxyhalides, among others. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.

However, to achieve a satisfactory antiperspirant and deodorant effect, it is necessary to use high concentrations of antiperspirant active agents. Such a concentration of antiperspirant actives affects stabilization of the antiperspirant composition due to interaction with the other ingredients, and may also cause skin irritation.

A variety of different antiperspirant and deodorant products are available on the market, such as powders, liquids, gels or soft solids and sticks. The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or paste in that, in a stick, the formulated product can retain its shape for extended periods outside of the package, with the product not losing its shape significantly except for shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.

Sticks intended for topical application to the skin, such as an armpit, are perceived to be dry, moisturizing and easy to apply.

However, certain drawbacks are generally pointed out by customers, such as the presence of an unpleasant powdery and rough feeling and/or the absence of a feeling of freshness, due to the fact that said composition does not include water in its formula, being thus anhydrous, as well as the presence of white spots on the clothes and on the skin, and the physico-chemical instability of the stick (hardness and loss of weight).

Another issue with stick formulas is for consumers with hairy armpits, where this dosage form has been reported to have sensory issues (oilyness), as the product seems to be more difficult to absorb due to the presence of hair. . In addition, a physico-chemical instability of this galenic form has been observed, such as a loss of weight and a decrease in hardness over time under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity.

Therefore, to solve the aforementioned problems of the state of the art, the inventors of the present invention have developed a cosmetic stick composition, which comprises a fatty compound, a surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant active ingredients, talc and pearlite.

Thanks to the specific combination of talc and perlite, the inventors obtained a stick cosmetic composition that provides the desired texture and hardness of the product, maintaining stable hardness, good stability under extreme conditions of temperature and humidity, avoiding cracking, weight loss, good dry feel (matte effect), less oily feeling and oily stains on clothes and good efficacy against sweat odors and perspiration, especially for consumers with hairy armpits .

The stick cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a fatty compound, a surfactant, antiperspirant or deodorant active agents, talc and perlite.

Such a stick composition provides a product with the desired texture and stable hardness, good stability under extreme temperature and humidity conditions, avoiding cracking, weight loss, good dry feel (matte effect), less feel grease and oily stains in clothes and good effectiveness against sweat odors and perspiration, especially for consumers with hairy armpits, thanks to the specific combination of talc and perlite.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. Further, the disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and may undergo changes. or modifications within the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant state of the art.

The cosmetic stick composition of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein.

The terms "a", "an", "the", "the" and "the" are understood to include the plural as well as the singular.

As used, the term "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. All of these ingredient weights listed are based on the specific ingredient level and therefore do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, fillers (preferably talc and perlite) or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described here that falls within a range described here can be used as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.

"Cosmetically acceptable" means that the article in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, the term “cosmetically acceptable support” means a support which is compatible with any keratinous substrate.

The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention and its essential or optional components are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, most preferably zero percent, by weight of free or added water.

Outside of the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about" which may encompass +/- 10 %, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0, 5%.

The term "stable" as used herein refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as an anhydrous antiperspirant and/or deodorant stick that does not change significantly over time, nor does it there is no stick bar breakage. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change, or exudation of an oil (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1, 0.5, or 0.1% by weight) is observed. in an anhydrous antiperspirant and/or deodorant stick for a predetermined period of time, for example, within about 1, 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) one or more active agent(s) chosen from:

(a.i) 10% to 30% antiperspirant active agent, or

(a.ii) 1% to 15% deodorant active agent;

(b) about 2% to about 30% fatty compounds;

(c) about 15% to about 35% surfactants;

(d) about 1% to about 15% talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 10% pearlite;

all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises an antiperspirant active in a range of about 15% to about 25%, and more preferably about 20% to 25%, on the basis of the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, without limitation, the antiperspirant active agent is selected from aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly (AZG), aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH), and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the deodorant active agent is selected from magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof.

The deodorant active is in the range of about 3% to about 14%, and more preferably about 5% to 12%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises a fatty compound in a range of about 4% to about 25%, more preferably about 5% to 20%, based on of the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, without limitation, the fatty compound is selected from castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises a surfactant in a range of about 20% to about 30%, more preferably 25% to 30%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, without limitation, the surfactant is selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises talc in a range of from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably from about 5% to 12%, based on weight. composition total.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention comprises perlite in a range of from about 0.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to 6%, and even more preferably about 1% to 3%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick composition of the present invention further comprises an emollient selected from a C _12-15 alkyl benzoate.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic stick composition will be used as a daily product to reduce, mask or absorb unpleasant odors from the human body.

The cosmetic stick composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.

In one embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition of the present invention may have a hardness of approximately 450g without a maximum limit, measured using a Stable Micro Systems™ Needle probe, following a penetrometry protocol. The limit of weight loss which is 3%.

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of the cosmetic stick composition for the manufacture of a product for reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant odors from the human body.

The stick cosmetic composition offers a product with a pleasant texture and stable hardness, good stability in extreme temperature and humidity conditions, avoiding cracking, weight loss, good dry touch (matte effect), less sensation grease and greasy stains on clothing and good efficacy against the smell of sweat and perspiration, especially for consumers with hairy armpits.

A preferred example of a cosmetic stick composition suitable according to the present invention comprises:

(a) about 10% to about 30% aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly, aluminum chlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 2% to about 30% hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil and mixtures thereof;

(c) about 15% to about 35% cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof;

(d) about 1% to about 15% talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 10% pearlite;

all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) about 3% to about 14% magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 4% to about 25% hydrogenated castor oil;

(c) about 20% to about 30% cetearyl alcohol;

(d) about 2% to about 12% talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 8% pearlite;

all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred example, a cosmetic stick composition suitable according to the present invention comprises:

(a) 15% to 25% aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum chlorohydrate and mixtures thereof;

(b) 4% to 25% hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil and mixtures thereof;

(c) 20-30% cetearyl alcohol or isopropyl palmitate;

(d) 2% to 12% talc;

(e) 0.5% to 8% pearlite;

all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick cosmetic composition comprises:

(a) about 5% to about 12% magnesium oxide, caustic soda, zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan and mixtures thereof;

(b) about 4% to about 25% hydrogenated castor oil;

(c) about 20% to about 30% cetearyl alcohol;

(d) about 2% to about 12% talc;

(e) about 0.5% to about 8% pearlite;

all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

ANTI-PERSPIR ACTIVE AGENTS

The term "anti-perspiration ingredient" refers to any substance capable of reducing the flow of sweat. The antiperspirant ingredients which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from aluminum and zirconium salts, complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of aluminum salts useful in the invention include, for example, aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, aluminum chlorohydrex and polyethylene glycol complex, chlorohydrex complex aluminum and propylene glycol, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum polyethylene glycol dichlorohydrex complex, aluminum propylene glycol dichlorohydrex complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum polyethylene glycol sesquichlorohydrex complex, sesquichlorohydrex d aluminum propylene glycol, aluminum sulfate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino include, for example, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, and their mixtures.

Complexes of zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum chlorohydrate with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). They are disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,792,068. ZAG complexes generally have an Al/Zr quotient ranging from about 1.67 to 12.5 and a Metal/Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 at 1.93. Non-limiting examples of such complexes include, for example, octachlorohydrex glycine aluminum zirconium, pentachlorohydrex glycine aluminum zirconium, tetrachlorohydrex glycine aluminum zirconium, trichlorohydrex glycine aluminum zirconium, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the antiperspirant ingredient is aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 103, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the name REACH 301, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY (INCI name), in particular the product sold by SummitReheis under the REACH name AZP-908, and mixtures thereof. Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex GLY can be combined with a maximum of 5% aluminum chlorohydrate.

The antiperspirant ingredients are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of about 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

DEODORANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The composition of the present invention may further comprise any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant odors from the human body, in particular underarm odors. This deodorant active agent can be chosen from bacteriostatic agents or bactericides which act on the microorganisms responsible for underarm odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (® Triclosan), 2, 4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (Farnesol®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropane-tetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for example caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC® from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from the company Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for example polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc PCA, magnesium oxide, salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

Active deodorant agents can be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic zeolites with or without silver, or cyclodextrins and their derivatives. They can also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. It can also be a polyol of the glycerol or 1,3-propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or else an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.

The deodorant active agents can also be agents for neutralizing malodorous volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, sodium carbonate, calcium, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.

The amount of deodorant active can range from about 1% to about 15%, based on the total weight of the composition.

FAT COMPOUNDS

The fatty compounds can be any cosmetically acceptable fatty substance suitable for constituting the hardness of the stick and its matrix.

In addition to the preferential fatty compounds of the cosmetic stick composition, the invention may comprise additional fatty compounds chosen from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Among the oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polar or slightly polar oils, that is to say oils including an alkyl chain, preferably a C ₃ -C ₄₀ alkyl chain. Non-limiting examples of oils that can be used in the present invention include:

- linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, ozokerite, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters , which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , knowing that these chains can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candelabra oil, passionflower oil and rosehip oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides,

- synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain which is in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is ³ 10, e.g. cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, lanolate d isopropyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alkyl) tartrates, as well as di(linear C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alkyl) tartrates, or acetates.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol.

Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.

Preferable fatty compounds for the present invention are hydrogenated waxes, such as: hydrogenated jojoba oil, carnauba wax, and hydrogenated vegetable oil (rapeseed and palm).

The amount of fatty compound(s) can range from about 2% to about 30%, based on the total weight of the composition.

SURFACTANTS

Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol with polyglycerol, such as distearate polyglycerol-3-methylglucose, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids of glycerol; sorbitan oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and oxypropylene); oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; sugar fatty alcohol ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetostearylglucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, as well as arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidylglucoside.

The oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and oxypropylene) are preferably those in which the number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units is between 2 and 200. Mention may be made of steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.

Glycerol alkyl esters include glycerol esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mention may be made of mono-, di- or triesters of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably stearate polyoxyethylene glyceryl (mono-, di- and tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl (mono-, di- and tristearate) stearate.

The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids can be chosen from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and from at least one fatty acid comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids can be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid polyglycerol esters are chosen from the esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least one fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example 8 to 16 carbon atoms and more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is chosen from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters resulting from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. carbon preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid. Mention may be made, for example, of the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglyceryl-10 (homopolymer of glycerol comprising 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the reference DERMOFEEL G 10 L, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants for use in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of the structure below:

H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a’-OH,

where a, a' are between 2 and 150, and b is between 1 and 100.

In the chemical structure described above, preferably, a and a' range from 10 to 130 and b range from 20 to 80, more preferably a and a' range from 50 to 130 and b range from 30 to 80, and even more more preferably a and a' range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19,000, more preferably ranging from 1,200 to 15,000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10,000 and even better ranging from 1500 to 5000.

As polycondensate products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the triblock polycondensate products polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol sold under the name Synperonic, by example Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name : Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.

Preferred surfactants can be chosen from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the surfactant can be between about 15% and about 35%, based on the total weight of the composition.

EXPENSES

The term "filler" means any colorless or white solid particles, of any form whatsoever, insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of powdered fillers useful in the invention include, for example, talc, mica, silica, magnesium aluminum silicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, pearlite powders, fluorphlogopite, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, uroyl lysine, metal soap, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulphate, magnesium carbonate and mixtures thereof. Powder fillers do not include powder pigments.

Preferably, the talc is present in an amount of about 1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and the perlite is present in an amount of 0.5% to 10% based of the total weight of the composition.

SOLVENT

The cosmetic stick composition of the present invention may comprise synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 atoms of carbon and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 ≥ 10, for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate , C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; and their mixtures.

The amount of solvent can range from about 5% to about 30%, based on the total weight of the composition.

EMOLLIENT

In addition to the essential ingredients, the cosmetic stick composition of the present invention may include an emollient.

Useful emollients are natural esters based on mono-, di- and triglycerides. Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, but are not limited to, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, evening primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.

They can include natural or synthetic esters, hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their mixtures.

Emollients based on natural esters are mainly based on mono-, di- and triglycerides. Representative glycerides include any vegetable oil, but are not limited to, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, evening primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.

The hydrocarbons include apolar oils, such as petrolatum, mineral oil, C ₁₁ -C ₁₃ isoparaffins, polybutenes, and in particular isohexadecane, commercially available under the name Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc. The fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms can also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers. Pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic, and behenic acids illustrate this category.

Fatty alcohols having 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful class of cosmetically acceptable carrier. This category is exemplified by stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

Likewise, aliphatic fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanols are common cosmetic emollients which are particularly useful as coupling agents in antiperspirant compositions.

Preferred emollient oils are alkyl esters, such as PurSyn Ester 2E7 (neopentylglycol dihexanoate) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; benzoate esters such as Finsolv TN (trademark) manufactured by Finetex Inc.; hydrogenated polyalkenes, such as Panalane manufactured by Amoco and PureSyn PAO 2 (hydrogenated polydecene) manufactured by Exxon-Mobil; PPG ethers, such as Fluid AP (PPG-14 butyl ether) manufactured by Union Carbide; isopropyl palmitate; phenylsilicone; and isopropyl myristate.

Said compounds can be used alone or in mixture and can be used in amounts ranging from about 5% to 30%, in particular in the range from about 8% to 28%, all percentages being by weight of the total composition .

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may also comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen in particular from perfumes/fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, active agents, vitamins, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the addition envisaged.

A non-limiting example of a preservative which can be used according to the invention includes phenoxyethanol.

An example of an antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine and mixtures thereof.

A non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.

The additional ingredients can represent from about 0.1% to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the examples.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

There illustrates the improvement in weight loss (%) of Examples 1-5.

There illustrates the improved hardness of the options in Examples 1 through 5.

There illustrates the melting and recrystallization temperatures of Examples 1 to 5.

There illustrates the influence of the total powder in the enthalpy energy of fusion and the hardness.

There illustrates the influence of total powder on enthalpy energy of crystallization and hardness.

cosmetic stick composition manufacturing process

Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the steps of:

1. melting at 75°C ± 2°C of all the fatty and emollient compounds (including the solvent and the surfactant);
2. decrease the temperature to 68°C ± 2°C, then add an active antiperspirant or deodorant (if present), mixing well before adding fillers and other ingredients, such as the perfume ; And
3. filling with stirring around 65°C ± 2°C and cooling to 13°C ± 2°C to make a hard bar like a stick.

Optionally, one or more flavors can be added in step (ii).

EXAMPLES 1 TO 6

A suitable composition according to the present invention is that of Examples 1 to 6 and suitable compositions according to the state of the art are Examples 7 to 9, as follows:

FUNCTION US INCI NAME Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 SCENT FRAGRANCE 0-3% 0-3% 0-3% 0-3% 0-3% 0-3% FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 10-30% 10-30% 10-30% 10-30% 10-30% 10-30% SURFACTANT CETEARYL ALCOHOL 15-35% 15-35% 15-35% 15-35% 15-35% 15-35% EMOLLIENT C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 5-30% 5-30% 5-30% 5-30% 5-30% 5-30% FAT COMPOUND HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 3-10% 3-10% 3-10% 3-10% 3-10% 3-10% ANTI-PERPIRATION ACTF COMPOUND ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLORO
HYDREX GLY 15-25% 15-25% 15-25% 15-25% 15-25% - CHARGE PEARLITE - 0.5-3% 0.5-3% 0.5-3% 0.5-3% 0.5-3% CHARGE TALC - 1-15% 1-15% 1-15% 1-15% 1-15% DEODORANT ACTIVE MAGNESIUM OXIDE - - - - - 3-12%

Compositions of the present invention

FUNCTION US INCI NAME Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 SCENT FRAGRANCE 0-3% 0-3% 0-3% FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE - 10-30% 10-30% SURFACTANT CETEARYL ALCOHOL - 15-35% 15-35% SOLVENT C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE - 5-30% 5-30% FAT COMPOUND HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL - 3-10% 3-10% ANTI-PERSPIRATION ACTIVE COMPOUND ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY 15-25% 15-25% 15-25% CHARGE PEARLITE 0.5-3% 0.5-3% - CHARGE TALC - 1-15% FAT COMPOUND ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 5-30% - - ACTIVE COMPOUND CALCIUM HYDROXIDE 0.5-3% - - SILICONE DIMETHICONE 5-30% - - FAT COMPOUND OZOKERITE 2-4% - - POLYMERIC FILLER SYNTHETIC WAX 10-12% - - SURFACTANT PPG-14 BUTYL ETHER 5-7% - - SURFACTANT PEG-8 DISTEARATE 5-7% - - CHARGE SILICA SILYLATE - 0-1% 0-1%

Examples 7 to 9

Example 10

An experimental design (EP) test was carried out with examples 1 to 5 in order to identify a cosmetic composition: by addressing the texture in the hairy armpits; improving dry touch and staining/and hardness and weight loss, but retaining spread, performance and stability.

The physico-chemical parameters evaluated are:

Hardness at the end of manufacture;

Hardness after 1 week at 55ºC;

Weight loss after 1 week at 55°C; And

Differential scanning calorimetry on a standardized temperature curve.

A comparative instrumental gravimetric study was carried out on the two extreme conditions (examples 1 to 5) to verify the impact of the antiperspirant efficacy.

A sensory panel was conducted with hairy volunteers to check which texture best suits the application area. Full stability and compatibility was achieved with the final formulation to verify complete behavior.

In conclusion, fillers have been successfully added to a stick to help build up the matrix structure of the stick to improve sensory on hairy armpits and stability. Not only has a drier feel and less greasy stains been provided, but the stability parameters have been improved without compromising efficiency, a key factor for the consumer.

Example 11

A comparative test was carried out with examples 1 to 5 in order to control the hardness and the loss of weight:

no. Hardness (g) at T0 Hardness (g) at 1S T55ºC Weightloss (%) 1 792,339 654,834 0.72 2 1063.982 851.2 0.01 3 1067.933 776,328 0.03 4 1204.319 818,579 0.01 5 1726.371 812.085 0.005

HARDNESS AND WEIGHT LOSS RESULTS

It has been observed that the addition of powders has a direct impact on the hardness at T0, as the higher the total amount of powder in the stick technology, the higher the hardness.

Under stressed conditions (1S T55), it seems that the addition of powders ensures a harder bar and less weight loss, compared to an unloaded bar. However, the hardness seems to stabilize around 800g, without increasing or decreasing, even with very high concentrations of powders, especially talc.

Examples 2-5 show bar stability while significantly decreasing weight loss.

Example 12

A comparative test by differential scanning calorimetry was carried out with Examples 1 to 5 in order to verify the melting and crystallization temperatures of the composition:

Examples Melting temperature(°C) Crystallization temperature (°C) 1 35.20 26.94 2 39.27 23.69 3 37.30 26.82 4 37.96 24.19 5 35.6 28.43

MELTING AND CRYSTALLIZATION TEMPERATURE RESULTS

The melting and recrystallization temperatures do not seem to have been greatly impacted by the addition of fillers.

Sample 2 is the only sample with a melting point significantly higher than normal armpit skin temperature (35.9 - 36.7°C). This allows the stick to be completely hard during application, which drastically reduces the chances of oil release or melting of the bar compared to other samples. Melting means that the bar begins to melt, to break down.

This hypothesis is further clarified by the difference between the melting and crystallization temperatures, with sample 2 showing the greatest difference. This means that more energy is needed to change phase, i.e. high ambient temperature is needed to physically and chemically change the characteristics of the stick.

As the enthalpy energy of both the melting and crystallization phases of Sample 5 decreases after Samples 1-4, it appears that the stick is more of a powdery structure than a crystalline one. The high powder content occupies most of the intrinsic space and less space is available for crystal formation during fatty alcohol crystallization.

Example 13

no. Total powder (%) |ΔH| Crystallization (J/g) |ΔH| Fusion (J/g) 1 0 10.5426 19.4041 2 5.5 4.4415 17.6128 3 6.4 5.2545 23.5003 4 7.7 8.9987 27.4386 5 12.5 4.2246 2.0906

RES ENTHALPIC ENERGY ULTS

Talc and perlite appear to have a direct impact on the energy needed to crystallize stick waxes. This could be related to the characteristic of talc to occupy space in organized groups, resulting in smaller crystals formed by the waxes.

Perlite, as a finer particle, fills the remaining spaces to improve sensory issues and prevent weight loss, by decreasing the vague space.

This can be seen by the crystallization energy which decreases as the powders are added. Therefore, fillers seem to contribute to easier and faster crystallization.

Sample 2 is the only powdery version whose fusion energy decreases compared to the non-powdery version (1), while maintaining correct hardness at T0 and superior stability, as well as losing weight.

Example 14

no. Hardness (g) at T0 Hardness (g)
1M T45ºC Weightloss (%)
1M T45ºC 1 792,339 536,439 0.33 2 1063.982 906,201 0.08

OTHER HARDNESS AND WEIGHT LOSS RESULTS

Hardness (g) at T0 Hardness (g)
2M T45ºC Weightloss (%)
2M T45ºC 1 792,339 570,557 1.39 2 1063.982 612,455 0.09

OTHER RESULTS HARDNESS AND WEIGHT LOSS

A comparative study of instrumental gravimetry was carried out on the two extreme conditions (1 and 5) to verify the impact of the addition of fillers on the antiperspirant efficacy.

The trial was conducted with 54 volunteers, 28 wash days, for 4 days with once-daily application. The measurements were carried out at T0, 48h, 72h and 96h.

The results of the ANCOVA analysis indicate that there are no statistically significant differences in sweat reduction between Test Product 5 and Test Product 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications .

A free choice profile (sensory panel) was conducted with 15 men with hairy armpits, with applications including the underarm area.

The references were internal (common in the market) and external (key players in the market). The winning formula was option 2, as it was closer to the benchmarks in terms of application, dry touch, spreadability and residue.

Sample 2 was fully rated for Stability and Compatibility and showed improvement compared to Base 1.

Adding fillers to the sample 2 ratio improved weight loss, which is a critical parameter for a stick. The hardness is also higher, resulting in a stronger stick, even in extreme conditions.

Experimental conclusions

In terms of physico-chemical parameters, the benefits of adding powders within the specific ranges improve weight loss on accelerated stability and improve hardness at T0 and on accelerated stability.

Additionally, Sample 2 is the only one with a significantly higher melting temperature than skin, which could help ensure that the bar does not melt during application, likely reducing the oily, wet feel.

Talc and perlite appear to have a direct impact on the energy needed to crystallize stick waxes, as the crystallization energy decreases as they are added. Mainly because they take up free space and allow smaller crystals to form faster.

In terms of stability and compatibility, both weight loss and hardness under extreme conditions (45°C) are improved.

In terms of effectiveness, the addition of powders does not impact the antiperspirant performance, even with very high concentrations of powder for up to 96 hours.

In terms of sensory profile, the addition of powders appears to improve the oiliness, residue, and dry feel of hairy armpits, and does not appear to have a significant impact on spreadability and application.

Example 15

Product Performance Evaluation (PPE)

The objective of this study was to evaluate Example 5 antiperspirant and Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications according to the FDA protocol. Based on the clinical results of this study, there were no statistically significant differences in terms of sweat reduction between the composition of Example 5 and the composition of Example 1 at 48, 72 and 96 hours after 4 apps.

Forty-four (54) female subjects were selected to participate in this study. Fifty-one (51) subjects attended the baseline hot chamber session.

During the 28 days preceding the application of the investigational composition, the subjects used only a standard deodorant and no other product on the armpits. After this period, a baseline hot chamber session (80 minutes, 37.8 ± 1ºC, 30-40% relative humidity) was performed to select subjects who sweat more than 100 milligrams of sweat in each armpit for 20 minutes.

After the baseline hot chamber session, subjects performed supervised washing of their armpits with liquid soap and received a controlled application of 0.4 g of the product in a randomized fashion, performed by a trained technician.

On the following two days, the subjects were instructed to apply the product delivered by the study personnel at home. Then the subjects returned to the research center for the 2nd controlled application of product performed by a trained technician. The amount of product was 0.4g determined by a calibrated pipette.

Hot chambers (80 minutes, 37.8 ± 1ºC, 30-40% relative humidity) were performed again to estimate the antiperspirant efficacy 48, 72 and 96 hours after the fourth application of the product.

Statistical analysis

Antiperspirant activity was assessed by determining variations in the ratios of sweat production between the armpit treated with Example 5 and the armpit treated with Example 1 for each volunteer. Estimates of percent reduction and 95% confidence intervals were calculated. Data was analyzed using the Wilcoxon Signed Rank test.

These analyzes were calculated as follows:

Z [%] = [ (PT x C) / (PC x T)] *100

Or :

- Z is the adjusted ratio;

- PC is the amount of sweat corresponding to the pretreatment measurement for the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5);

- PT is the quantity of sweat corresponding to the pretreatment measurement for the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 1);

- T is the quantity of sweat corresponding to the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 1);

- C is the quantity of sweat corresponding to the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5).

For statistical analysis, the Wilcoxon-Rank test (one-sided) is used. The hypotheses tested by the Wilcoxon-Signed-Rank-Test (unilateral) are specified below (FDA and Europe respectively):

H0: the median of the calculated Z value is ≥ 80%;

H1: the median of the calculated Z value is < 80%; And

H0: the median of the calculated Z value is ≥ 100%;

H1: the median of the calculated Z value is < 100%.

The level of confidence considered in the analysis was 95%.

Results

Tables 8, 9, 10, 11A and 11B summarize the results of the analysis at 48, 72 and 96 hours after four applications.

Product T0 (baseline) T48h (48h after four applications) Mean difference from baseline (mg) Mean difference from baseline (%) Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Example 5
± 95% CI 1074.1 703.1 -371.1 -34.5 115.3 138.3 Example 1
± 95% CI 1044.5 660.6 -384.0 -36.8 134.7 121.7 Difference
Example 1
Example 5 29.6 42.5 12.9 2.2

Mean amounts of sweat 48 hours after fourth product application and difference from baseline, n=45

Legend: mg = milligrams; 95% CI = 95% confidence interval.

Product T0 (baseline) T72h (72h after four applications) Mean difference from baseline (mg) Mean difference from baseline (%) Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Example 5
± 95% CI 1074.1 968.0 -106.1 -9.9 115.3 162.7 Example 1
± 95% CI 1044.5 916.3 -128.2 -12.3 134.7 134.2 Difference
Example 1
Example 5 29.6 51.7 22.1 2.4

Mean amounts of sweat 72 hours after fourth product application and difference from baseline, n=45

Legend: mg = milligrams; 95% CI = 95% confidence interval.

Product T0 (baseline) T96h (96h after four applications) Mean difference from baseline (mg) Mean difference from baseline (%) Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Mean values (mg) ± CI95% Example 5
± 95% CI 1074.1 841.5 -232.6 -21.7 115.3 133.3 Example 1
± 95% CI 1044.5 794.9 -249.6 -23.9 134.7 122.4 Difference
Example 1
Example 5 29.6 46.7 17.1 2.2

Mean amounts of sweat 96 hours after fourth product application and difference from baseline, n=45

Legend: mg = milligrams; 95% CI = 95% confidence interval.

Statistical analyzes were carried out to compare the antiperspirant efficacy of the two formulas by analysis of covariance (ANCOVA for Analysis of Covariance).

The results are reported in terms of the percent (%) difference of one treatment compared to the others.

If the ANCOVA result is significant, the formulas are statistically different, and we can conclude that:

• If % > 0, the sweat rate of the armpit treated with the reference (903539 NP) > the sweat rate of the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5), therefore the test product ( Ex. 5) is more efficient than the reference (Ex. 1).

• If % < 0, the sweat rate of the armpit treated with the reference (Ex. 1) < the sweat rate of the armpit treated with the test product (Ex. 5), therefore the reference (Ex. 1) is more effective than the test product (Ex. 5).

Summary of log means NOT Example 5 Example 1 ANCOVA p-value Baseline 45 6.9156 6.8437 Appl. No. 4-48 hours 45 6.3754 6.3447 0.782 (NS) Appl. No.4-72 hours 45 6.7503 6.7038 0.517 (NS) Appl. No. 4-96 hours 45 6.6002 6.5397 0.414 (NS)

Summary of statistical analysis, n=45

Estimates of the percent difference and their 95% confidence intervals
(inferior superior) Application
No. 4-48 hours Application
No.4-72 hours Application
No. 4-96 hours Difference in % 2.1062862 -2.445 -3.156 95% CI
(inferior superior) [-14.211; 16,092] [-10.397; 4,934] -11.298; 4,391]

Summary of statistical analysis, n=45

Legend: S = significant p≤ 0.05; NS = not significant; 95% CI = 95% confidence interval.

The results of the ANCOVA analysis indicate that there is no statistically significant difference in terms of sweat reduction between test product A (Ex. 5) and test product B (Ex. 1) , 72 and 96 hours after 4 applications.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic stick composition comprising:
(a) one or more active agent(s) chosen from:
(ai) 10% to 30% antiperspirant active agent, or
(a.ii) 1% to 15% deodorant active agent;
(b) 2% to 30% of fatty compound selected from hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable waxes, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof;
(c) 15% to 35% surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(d) 1% to 15% talc; And
(e) 0.5% to 10% pearlite;
wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the antiperspirant active ingredient is chosen from tetrachlorohydrex gly of aluminum zirconium, aluminum chlorohydrate, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of antiperspirant active is from 15% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the deodorant active agent is chosen from magnesium oxide, caustic soda and zinc PCA, sodium bicarbonate, triclosan, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the amount of deodorant active is from 3% to 14% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein it further comprises an emollient selected from a C _12-15 alkyl benzoate. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of fatty compounds ranges from 4% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of surfactant is 20% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of talc is 2% to 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of perlite is 0.5% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.