FR3111797A1 - Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, manufacturing process of anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, manufacturing process of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition The present invention relates to an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, preferably in stick form, which provides all-day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and wetness, has a good sensory profile, improved stability and long lasting fragrance. The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent. The present invention also discloses a process for manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, manufacturing process of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition

Field of invention

The present invention relates to an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, preferably in stick form, which provides all-day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and wetness, has a good sensory profile, improved stability and long lasting fragrance. The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound and at least a surfactant and a solvent. The present invention also discloses a process for manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition.

Background of the invention

Sweating, even though it is a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on a person's skin or clothing. However, perspiration secreted from the sweat glands tends to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with many microorganisms that reside on the surface of the armpit skin. Both of these phenomena are considered undesirable in many societies.

Body odor is caused by the breakdown of perspiration by bacteria. Currently, body odor can be treated using aluminum salts, which act on odor as active bactericides and reduce sweating as an antiperspirant. Fighting odor is critical for the Personal Hygiene business.

Other anti-odor actives are also available on the market, such as zinc gluconate and technologies such as glycolic sticks; however, they do not reach the level 10 effectiveness of aluminum salts.

Commonly available products help to treat both phenomena. More specifically, antiperspirant products have active ingredients that inhibit/suppress perspiration while deodorant products have ingredients that mask unpleasant odors caused by perspiration. Many products treat both phenomena simultaneously.

A variety of different product forms are available in the market, including powders, liquids, gels or soft solids, and sticks. The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or paste in that, in a stick, the formulated product can retain its shape over extended periods of time outside of the package, said product not losing its shape significantly, except for shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.

Sticks for local application on the skin, for example under the armpits, feel dry, moisturizing and easy to apply. The stick format is one of the most popular forms of application of antiperspirant compositions. However, certain disadvantages are generally reported by customers, in particular the presence of an unpleasant feeling of powder and roughness and/or the absence of a feeling of freshness due to the fact that said composition does not contain water in its formula, being, therefore, anhydrous, as well as the presence of white spots on clothes and on skin.

Furthermore, the antiperspirant and deodorant active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxy halides. These substances help reduce the flow of perspiration.

However, to obtain a satisfactory antiperspirant effect, it is necessary to use high concentrations of active antiperspirant agents. Such a high concentration of antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the antiperspirant composition and can also cause skin irritation.

Gallenic stick formulations generally contain a solvent vehicle such as cyclomethicone as well as a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, to gel or thicken the suspension in a satisfactory manner to create a suitable stick.

Considering the current drawbacks of the state of knowledge and the difficulties in overcoming them, the inventors have formulated an anhydrous cosmetic composition, especially deodorants/antiperspirants, in a stick format, comprising magnesium oxide as deodorant active agent , at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant, and one solvent, which also provide all-day performance, effectiveness against sweat odor and wetness, good sensory profile, improved stability, and long-lasting fragrance having improved efficiency performance.

The present invention relates to anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions. More specifically, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition with a minimalist formula in a stick format. Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition provides all-day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and wetness, good sensory profile and improved stability, and long-lasting fragrance, it features magnesium oxide as deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, such as hydrogenated castor oil and isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof, at least one surfactant, such as cetearyl alcohol, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, such as C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate. The present invention also discloses a method of making the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition.

Specifically, observers have noted, surprisingly, that the emollient blend allows the magnesium oxide to be suspended and well distributed in the bar of the stick, even with a high concentration of magnesium oxide in a format stick icon.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the more detailed description below of desirable embodiments which illustrate, by way of example, the principles of the invention.

Detailed description of the invention

The following description illustrates and describes the present invention. Further, the disclosure represents and describes only the preferred embodiments, but, as mentioned above, it should be understood that it is acceptable to use it in various other combinations, modifications and environments and that it is possible to have changes or modifications in the scope of the concepts of the invention as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or skill or knowledge of the relevant art.

The embodiments described herein below are otherwise intended to explain the best modes known to Applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to use the disclosure as such, or otherwise, to other embodiments and with the various modifications required in the particular applications or uses thereof.

Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Further, the appended claims are intended to be construed as including alternative embodiments.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise, consist of or consist essentially of a number of essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein as well as any ingredients, additional or optional components or limitations described in present.

As used herein, the term "at least one" refers to one or more and therefore includes the individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

All percentages, parts and ratios are, unless otherwise indicated, by weight of the total composition. All said weights, as they apply to the listed ingredients, are based on a specific ingredient level and therefore do not include solvents, carriers, derivatives, fillers or other minor ingredients. which may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein may serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a subrange, etc.

“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the article in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, "cosmetically acceptable carrier" refers to a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.

The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention, and essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added water or water. Formulationally, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than 0.5%, most preferably zero percent weight of free or added water.

Other than in the working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning at +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1% or +/- 0.5% .

The term "stable" as used herein refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as an anhydrous deodorant stick that does not change significantly over time, and also means that there is no no breaking of the stick bar. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change, or oil exudation (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1, 0.5, or 0.1% by weight) is observed. on an anhydrous deodorant stick for a predetermined period of time, for example about 1, 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.

In one embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 3% to about 15% of a deodorant active, selected from magnesium oxide;

(b) from about 4% to about 40% fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;

(c) from about 15% to about 40% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol and

(d) from about 20% to about 50% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

All amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise a deodorant active in the range of from about 3% to about 15%, preferably from about 5% to about 12% to about 7% at approximately 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the fatty compound(s) in a range from 4% to about 40%, preferably from about 8% to about 35% , more preferably from about 12% to about 35%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a surfactant in a range from 15% to about 40%, preferably from about 20% to about 35%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In another preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise solvent in a range of about 20% to about 50%, preferably about 25% to about 45%, based on total weight. of composition.

The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention may also include a fragrance, in a range of about 0.5% to 10%, in a range of about 0.5% to 1.0%, preferably of approximately 1.6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used as a daily skin care product. In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition can be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, cream gels, mousses, sprays and sticks. In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a stick.

In one embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant composition of the present invention may exhibit a hardness of from about 400g to about 1000g, measured using a needle probe from Stable Micro Systems™, following a penetrometry protocol .

In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product intended to reduce, mask or absorb unpleasant human body odors, which can be used as a deodorant daily.

An example of a preferred deodorant composition suitable according to the present invention comprises:

(a) from about 5% to about 12% deodorant active, selected from magnesium oxide;

(b) from about 6% to about 30% fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;

(c) from about 20% to about 35% of a surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol and

(d) from about 20% to about 40% of a solvent, selected from C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate.

Another example of a suitable preferred deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) 5% to 12% magnesium oxide;

(b1) 5% to 10% hydrogenated castor oil;

(b2) 20% to 30% isopropyl myristate;

(c) 20% to 35% cetearyl alcohol and

(d) 25% to 40% C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate.

Another example of an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) 5% to 12% magnesium oxide;

(b1) 5% to 10% hydrogenated castor oil;

(b2) 20% to 30% isopropyl myristate;

(c) 20% to 35% cetearyl alcohol and

(d) 25% to 40% C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate.

All amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.

Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the following steps:

(i) melting at 75° C. of all the fatty compounds and of the solvent;

(ii) lowering the temperature to 60°C and adding MgO and

(iii) filling at around 60° C. and freezing at 4° C. for hardening, in the form of a bar.

Optionally, one or more fragrance(s) can be added in step (ii).

Active deodorant agents

In addition to magnesium oxide, the composition of the present invention may include any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant human body odors, in particular underarm odors. Such a deodorant active agent can be selected from bacteriostatic or bactericidal agents that act on armpit odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2 ,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (®Triclocarban) or 3, 7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for example caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC® from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans) and biguanide derivatives, for example polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc PCA, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

Active deodorant agents can be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They can also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47-S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They can also be a glycerol polyol of the 1,3-propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or elsewhere an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate or aluminum.

The deodorant active agents can also be agents for neutralizing nauseous volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, calcium, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.

The amount of deodorant active agent can range from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty compounds

The fatty compounds may be cosmetically acceptable fatty substances suitable for imparting softness to the stick and effective for maintaining the same or similar amounts of stick deposit when applied, despite the hardness of the stick.

In addition to the preferred fatty compounds of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, the invention may include additional fatty compounds selected from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

For the oils which can be used in the invention, mention can be made of polar or slightly polar oils, that is to say oils comprising an alkyl chain, preferably a C ₃ -C ₄₀ alkyl chain. Non-exhaustive examples of oils for use in the present invention include:

- linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils and oils based on lanolin, based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , it being understood that these chains may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa, rye oil, safflower oil, walnut oil, passion flower oil and rosehip oil or also caprylic/capric acid triglycerides.,

- synthetic esters, for example oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain which is specially branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is 10, e.g. cetearyl octanate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate , isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, ateisononyl isononano, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanate; hydroxy esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ alkyl) tartrates and also di(linear C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alkyl) tartrates or acetates.

- silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally comprising a C ₃ -C ₄₀ alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain such as phenyltrimethicones, optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or with groups functional such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylene, fluorosilicone and perfluoro oils;

- mixtures of the latter.

Non-exhaustive examples of fatty alcohols used for the present invention are those which are liquid at room temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol.

Non-exhaustive examples of fatty alcohols used for the present invention are higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.

The oil can be chosen from silicones likedimethine, vegetable oils, petroleum-based oils, such as petrolatum, esters or combinations thereof. The fatty compound can be selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl ether PPG-14 and a combination thereof.

The amount of fatty compound(s) can range from approximately 4% to approximately 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The composition of the anhydrous deodorant according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol.

Non-exhaustive examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for example sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APG) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside , for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol.

The oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. mention steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.

Glycerol alkyl esters include glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures of these. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of the latter, the mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably , a polyoxyethylene glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate).

Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids can be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 3 to 10 glycerol units and at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and ideally from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids can be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid , caprylic acid or mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid polyglycerol esters are selected from esters deriving from the polyglycerol reaction comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units and at least one fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid polyglycerol ester is selected from the group consisting of reaction-derived polyglycerol esters comprising from 4 to 10 glycerol units and at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 with 12 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and/or capric acid. Mention should be made, for example, of the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglyceryl-10 (homopolymer of glycerol containing 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the name of DERMOFEEL reference G 10 L, the ester resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41.

Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and mixtures of the latter, particularly those containing from 8 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-8 to PEG-50 laurate, PEG-8 to PEG-50 palmitate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 stearate; PEG-8 distearate at PEG- palmitostearate 50PEG-8 at PEG-50; PEG-8 to PEG-50 behenate; polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants for use in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide of the structure below:

H-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a -(O-CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ) _b -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a' -OH,

where a, a' range from 2 to 150 and b range from 1 to 100.

In the chemical structure described above, preferably a and a' range from 10 to 130 and b range from 20 to 80, more preferably a and a' range from 50 to 130 and b range from 30 to 80 and in l 'ideal, a and a' range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to a particular embodiment, a and a' are identical.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has an average molecular weight between 250 and 19,000, more preferably between 1,200 and 15,000, in especially between 1,500 and 10,000 and even better between 1,500 and 5,000.

As polycondensate products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which may be useful according to the invention, mention should be made of the triblock polycondensate products of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol sold under the name Synperonic , for example Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name : Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 ( INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.

The amount of surfactant can range from 15% to approximately 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solvent

Synthetic esters, in particular fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents, in particular, a chain based branched hydrocarbon containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 ≥ 10, e.g. purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ alkyl benzoate - C ₁₅ , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of surfactant can range from approximately 20% to approximately 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may also comprise any conventional ingredient acceptable from the cosmetic point of view, which may be chosen, in particular, from perfumes/fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, agents, vitamins, silicones, polymers and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional complementary ingredients and/or the amount thereof, so that the advantageous properties of the composition, according to the invention, are not, or are not affected negative by the proposed addition.

A non-limiting example of a preservative that can be used according to the invention includes phenoxyethanol.

An example of an antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.

Suitable additional active agents include, but are not limited to, disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

A non-exhaustive example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.

Additional ingredients may represent from 1% to 30%, in particular from 60% to 85% or from 70 to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.

By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.

Examples

Suitable anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions according to the present invention and the state of the art were prepared according to the compositions of Examples 1 to 4 below:

Function Ingredient/
US INCI EXAMPLE 1 EXAMPLE 2 EXAMPLE 3 EXAMPLE 4 Charge Perlite 0.2 - - - Fatty compounds Isopropyl myristate 27.0 27.0 27.0 27.0 surfactant Cetearyl alcohol 26.5 27 20 33 Solvent C _12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 30.0 34.0 29.0 30.0 fatty compound Hydrogenated castor oil 5.0 6.0 10.0 15.0 Active compound Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly 20.0 - - - Active compound magnesium oxide - 3.0 4.8 5.0 Scent Fragrance - - 1.0 -

EXAMPLE 5 - SNIFF TEST OF BAD ARMPIT ODORS BY A PANEL OF OLFACTORY SENSORY EXPERTS

Background: Evaluating Antiperspirant Products

A whole range: aerosol, device with ball and stick is under development. This new range is designed for:

(1) Defeat all bad odors: without aluminum chlorohydrate (dermatologists can recommend our products to people without a prior reaction to aluminum salts), without alcohol;

(2) Evaluate antiperspirant products for perceived effectiveness against perspiration odor.

For the stick, the goal is to provide the best aluminum-free stick on the market. This stick will have the same level of effectiveness as the antiperspirant stick in terms of the perception of bad odors, i.e. parity with the antiperspirant sticks (and superior to the deodorant stick).

Objective :

Evaluation of the anti-odor efficacy of stick formulas 24 hours after a single application.

Identification of the best candidate for this application:

1. Are the compositions of the present invention in EXAMPLE 2 and EXAMPLE 3 superior to the deodorant stick (compared to EXAMPLE 6 below)?

2. Are the compositions of the present invention in EXAMPLE 2 and EXAMPLE 3 superior to the antiperspirant stick (compared to EXAMPLE 5 below)?

Products :

Examples of the state of the art (for comparison) are described in the table below

EXAMPLE 5 EXAMPLE 6 cyclopentasiloxane,
aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex GLY,
stearyl alcohol,
C _12-15 alkyl benzoate
PPG-14 butyl ether,
hydrogenated castor oil
PEG-8
scent,
dimethicone
polyethylene,
silica
Helianthus annuus seed oil,
steareth-100,
BHT
alpha-isomethyl ionone,
benzyl alcohol,
benzyl benzoate,
benzyl salicylate,
butylphenyl methyl propional,
lemonellol,
geraniol,
hexyl cinnamal,
hydroxycitronellal,
limonene,
linalool. propylene glycol,
water
sodium stearate,
scent,
sodium chloride,
stearyl alcohol,
Tetrasodium EDTA.

Method :

Sensory analysis - Objective evaluation by Group of experts on good odors

Parameters according to the protocol:

Standardized evaluation of armpit bad odor intensities, after 24 hours by 10 panelists.

Randomized application of products to the armpits of 17 volunteers with strong underarm bad odors (no washing or voluntary inclusion).

Quantity applied: 0.4g (+/-0.05)

NB: Before the application, we asked the volunteers to heat the product on their fingertips to facilitate the application on the armpits.

Acquisition and processing of analysis data obtained by FIZZ and XLStat.

Results concerning the intensity of bad odors at T24h

- Comparison of the effectiveness of 2 deodorant prototypes:

There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes.

- Compared to EXAMPLE 5

There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes and the Market I product in terms of deodorant effectiveness.

- Compared to the Market II product

There is no significant difference between the composition of the present invention such as in EXAMPLE 2 (pure MgO at 7%) and in EXAMPLE 6.

Therefore, the composition of the present invention as in EXAMPLE 3 (10% pure MgO) is more effective in terms of deodorant efficacy than the Market II product.

Results concerning the intensity of fragrance at T24h

- Fragrance comparison of 2 deodorant prototypes:

There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes.

- Compared to EXAMPLE 5

There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes and the Market I product in terms of their fragrance intensities.

- Compared to EXAMPLE 6

The composition of the present invention according to EXAMPLE 3 (10% pure MgO) and the composition of the present invention according to EXAMPLE 2 (7% pure MgO) have a more intense fragrance than EXAMPLE 6.

In conclusion, the composition of the present invention according to EXAMPLE 3 (10% pure MgO) is more effective in terms of deodorant efficacy than that of EXAMPLE 6. The composition of the present invention according to EXAMPLE 2 ( 7% pure MgO) is not significantly different.

The composition of the present invention (10% pure MgO) and the composition of the present invention according to EXAMPLE 2 (7% pure MgO) exhibited excellent malodor efficacy.

Claims (9)

Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 3% to about 15% of a deodorant active, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol and
(d) 20% to 50% of a solvent, selected from C-alkyl benzoate₁₂-VS₁₅ ;
wherein the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition optionally includes a fragrance in an amount of 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 5% to 12% magnesium oxide;
(b1) 5% to 10% hydrogenated castor oil;
(b2) 20% to 30% isopropyl myristate;
(c) 20% to 35% cetearyl alcohol and
(d) 25% to 40% C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate. An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is in the form of a stick. Anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is aluminum free. Process for the manufacture of an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, in which the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises:
(a) 3% to 15% of a deodorant active, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% of fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol and
(d) 20% to 45% of a solvent, selected from C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate,
wherein all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition,
the method comprising the following steps:
i) melting at 75°C of all the fatty compounds and of the solvent;
ii) lowering the temperature to 60°C and adding MgO and
iii) filling at around 60°C and freezing at 4°C for hardening, in the form of a bar. A method according to claim 6, wherein the method optionally includes fragrance(s) added in step (ii). Use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 3% to 15% of a deodorant active, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol and
(d) 20% to 45% of a solvent, selected from C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate,
wherein all amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition,
for the manufacture of a product to be used as a daily cosmetic product, more specifically, a deodorant. Use, according to claim 8, wherein the daily product is in the form of a stick.