WO2022000050A1 - Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, process of manufacturing the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, process of manufacturing the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022000050A1
WO2022000050A1 PCT/BR2020/050232 BR2020050232W WO2022000050A1 WO 2022000050 A1 WO2022000050 A1 WO 2022000050A1 BR 2020050232 W BR2020050232 W BR 2020050232W WO 2022000050 A1 WO2022000050 A1 WO 2022000050A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition
anhydrous
deodorant
stick
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2020/050232
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Bruna Rodrigues SALOMAO
Thiago ALVES
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112022021856A priority Critical patent/BR112022021856A2/en
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050232 priority patent/WO2022000050A1/en
Priority to FR2008657A priority patent/FR3111797B1/en
Publication of WO2022000050A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022000050A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229Sticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present disclosure is directed to an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, which provides all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, having good sensorial profile, improved stability as well as long-lasting fragrance.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent.
  • the present invention also discloses a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition.
  • Sweating though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands tends to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the underarm skin surface. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable in many societies.
  • Body odor is caused by degradation of sweat by bacteria.
  • body odor can be treated using aluminum salts, which act on the odor as an active bactericide and in sweat reduction as an antiperspirant. Fighting odor is critical for the Body Hygiene metier.
  • antiodor actives are also available in the market, like zinc gluconate, and technologies like glycolic sticks, however, they do not reach the level 10 of efficacy of aluminum salts.
  • Antiperspirant products possess active ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.
  • the stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that in a stick, the formulated product can maintain its shape for extended time periods outside the package, wherein the product does not significantly lose its shape, except for the shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.
  • Sticks for topical application to skin are perceived to be dry, moisturizing, and easy to apply.
  • One of the most popular form of applying antiperspirant compositions is in stick format.
  • some drawbacks are usually pointed out by the customers, such as the presence of an unpleasant feeling of powdery and rough and/or fail to provide a feeling of freshness, due to the fact that said composition does not comprise water in its formula, so being anhydrous, as well as the presence of white stains on clothes and on skin.
  • antiperspirant and deodorants active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxyhalides. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.
  • antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the antiperspirant composition, as well as can cause irritation to the skin.
  • Gallenic formulations of sticks typically contain a solvent vehicle such as cyclomethicone together with a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, in order to gel or thicken the suspension in a satisfactory form to create a suitable stick.
  • a solvent vehicle such as cyclomethicone together with a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, in order to gel or thicken the suspension in a satisfactory form to create a suitable stick.
  • anhydrous cosmetic composition specially, deodorants/antiperspirants, in stick format, comprising magnesium oxide as a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent, that also provide all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, good sensorial profile, improved stability and long-lasting fragrance having improved efficacy performance.
  • the present disclosure is directed to anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions. More precisely, the present invention is directed to an anhydrous cosmetic composition, with a minimalist formula in a stick format.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition provides all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, good sensorial profile and improved stability, as well as long-lasting fragrance, comprising magnesium oxide as a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, such as hydrogenated castor oil and isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof, at least one surfactant, such as cetearyl alcohol, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, such as C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
  • the present invention also discloses a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.
  • compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
  • the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • cosmetically acceptable carrier means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • anhydrous means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention and the essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, most preferably zero percent, by weight of free or added water.
  • stable refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as a deodorant anhydrous stick that does not change significantly over time, as well as there is no breakage of the stick bar. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change or exudation of an oil (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1 , 0.5 or 0.1 wt%) is observed in a deodorant anhydrous stick during a predetermined time period, for example, within about 1 , 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.
  • anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
  • a surfactant selected from cetearyl alcohol
  • a solvent selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a deodorant active agent in a range of from about 3% to about 15%, preferably about 5% to about 12% to about 7% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the fatty compound(s) in a range of from about 4% to about 40%, preferably about 8% to about 35%, more preferably from about 12% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a surfactant in a range of from about 15% to about 40%, preferably about 20% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a solvent in a range of from about 20% to about 50%, more preferably from about 25% to about 45%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention may also comprise fragrance, in a range of from about 0.5% to 10%, preferably about 1 ,6% by weight, relative on the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin.
  • the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition may be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, sprays and sticks.
  • the composition of the present invention is in the form of a stick.
  • the anhydrous deodorant composition of the present invention may present a hardness of about 400g to about 1000g, measured by means of a Stable Micro SystemsTM Needle probe, following a penetrometry protocol.
  • the present invention is related to the use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking or absorbing human unpleasant body odors, which can be used as deodorant daily product.
  • a preferential example of a suitable deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • a suitable deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • Another embodiment of the present invention is related to a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the steps of:
  • step (iii) filling around 60°C and freezing at 4°C for make it hard, as a bar.
  • fragrance(s) can be added in step (ii).
  • composition of the present invention may further comprise any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant human body odors, in particular underarm odors.
  • deodorant active agent could be selected from bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4' -trichloro- 2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ⁇ Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3’,4’-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’-chlorophenyl)urea ( ⁇ Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2, 5,10-trienol ( ⁇ Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3
  • the deodorant active agents may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47- S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyol of glycerol or 1 ,3- propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or else an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.
  • odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47- S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyol of
  • the deodorant active agents may also be agents for neutralizing foul smelling volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, calcium carbonate, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.
  • tromethamine for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical
  • TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical)
  • the amount of the deodorant active agent may range from about 3% to about 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty compounds may be any cosmetically acceptable fatty substance suitable for providing softness to the stick and effective for keeping the same or similar deposit quantity of the stick when applied despite of the hardness of the stick.
  • the invention may comprise additional fatty compounds selected from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • oils which can be used in the invention mention may be made to polar or slightly polar oils, i.e. oils including an alkyl chain, preferably a C3-C40 alkyl chain.
  • oils to be used in the present invention include: linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia
  • silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS's), optionally including a C3-C40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain, such as phenyltrimethicones, optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones and perfluoro oils; mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS's polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS's polydimethylsiloxanes
  • a C3-C40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain such as phenyltrimethicones
  • fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as polymethyltrifluoropropyld
  • Non-liming examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher fatty C12-C22 acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.
  • the oil may be chosen from silicones likedimethine, vegetable oils, petroleum-based oils like petrolatum, esters, or combinations thereof.
  • the fatty compound may be selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-14 butyl ether, and a combination thereof.
  • the amount of the fatty compound(s) may range from about 4% to about 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the anhydrous deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol.
  • Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl
  • Oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made to steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.
  • EO/PO ethylene or propylene oxide
  • Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof mono-, di- , or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate).
  • Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid.
  • ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units
  • lauric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl- 10 laurate
  • ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units
  • capric acid ICI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate
  • oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 8 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-8 to PEG-50 laurate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 palmitate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 stearate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 distearate PEG-8 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 behenate; polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80.
  • a and a’ are identical.
  • the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10 000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000.
  • Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lu
  • the amount of the surfactant may range from about 15% to about 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Synthetic esters in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 - C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricin
  • the amount of the solvent may range from about 20% to about 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
  • antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
  • Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
  • Additional ingredients may represent from about 1% to 30%, such as from 60% to 85% or such as from 70 to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
  • Suitable anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions according to the present invention and the state of the art were prepared according to compositions in the Examples 1 to 4 below:
  • composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) is more efficient on deo efficacy than Market product II.
  • composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) and the composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) have a more intense fragrance than EXAMPLE 6.
  • composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) is more efficient on deodorant efficacy than EXAMPLE 6.
  • the composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) is not significantly different.
  • composition of the present invention (Clean MgO 10%) and the composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) presented excellent bad odor efficacy.

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Abstract

The present disclosure is directed to an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, which provides all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, having good sensorial profile, improved stability as well as long-lasting fragrance. The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent. The present invention also discloses a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition.

Description

ANHYDROUS DEODORANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION, PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING THE ANHYDROUS DEODORANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND USE OF THE ANHYDROUS DEODORANT COSMETIC COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present disclosure is directed to an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, which provides all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, having good sensorial profile, improved stability as well as long-lasting fragrance. The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprises a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent. The present invention also discloses a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Sweating, though a natural bodily function, results in the formation of wet patches on human skin or clothing. Moreover, the sweat secreted from sweat glands tends to form a malodorous odor due to its interaction with the many microorganisms which reside on the underarm skin surface. These two phenomena are deemed to be undesirable in many societies.
Body odor is caused by degradation of sweat by bacteria. Currently, body odor can be treated using aluminum salts, which act on the odor as an active bactericide and in sweat reduction as an antiperspirant. Fighting odor is critical for the Body Hygiene metier.
Other antiodor actives are also available in the market, like zinc gluconate, and technologies like glycolic sticks, however, they do not reach the level 10 of efficacy of aluminum salts.
Products are commonly available which help to address both phenomena. More particularly, antiperspirant products possess active ingredients which inhibit/suppress sweating, whereas deodorant products possess ingredients that mask the malodors caused by sweat. Many products address both phenomena simultaneously.
A variety of different product forms are available in the market, such as powders, liquids, gels or soft solids and sticks. The stick form can be distinguished from a gel or a paste in that in a stick, the formulated product can maintain its shape for extended time periods outside the package, wherein the product does not significantly lose its shape, except for the shrinkage due to solvent evaporation.
Sticks for topical application to skin, for example, to an armpit, are perceived to be dry, moisturizing, and easy to apply. One of the most popular form of applying antiperspirant compositions is in stick format. However, some drawbacks are usually pointed out by the customers, such as the presence of an unpleasant feeling of powdery and rough and/or fail to provide a feeling of freshness, due to the fact that said composition does not comprise water in its formula, so being anhydrous, as well as the presence of white stains on clothes and on skin.
Additionally, the antiperspirant and deodorants active agents generally consist of salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium, such as aluminum chloride and aluminum hydroxyhalides. These substances help to reduce the flow of sweat.
However, to achieve a satisfactory antiperspirant effect it is needed to use high concentrations of antiperspirant active agents. Such high concentration of antiperspirant active agents affects the stabilization of the antiperspirant composition, as well as can cause irritation to the skin.
Gallenic formulations of sticks typically contain a solvent vehicle such as cyclomethicone together with a waxy substance such as stearyl alcohol, alone or in combination with castor wax, in order to gel or thicken the suspension in a satisfactory form to create a suitable stick.
Considering the current drawbacks of the state of the art and the difficulties to overcome them, the inventors formulated an anhydrous cosmetic composition, specially, deodorants/antiperspirants, in stick format, comprising magnesium oxide as a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, at least one surfactant and a solvent, that also provide all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, good sensorial profile, improved stability and long-lasting fragrance having improved efficacy performance.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present disclosure is directed to anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions. More precisely, the present invention is directed to an anhydrous cosmetic composition, with a minimalist formula in a stick format. The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition provides all day performance, efficacy against sweat odor and humidity, good sensorial profile and improved stability, as well as long-lasting fragrance, comprising magnesium oxide as a deodorant active agent, at least one fatty compound, such as hydrogenated castor oil and isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof, at least one surfactant, such as cetearyl alcohol, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, such as C12-C15 alkyl benzoate. The present invention also discloses a process of manufacturing the anhydrous cosmetic composition and the uses of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.
More precisely, the inventors surprisingly observed that the blend of emollients allows the magnesium oxide suspension and right distribution in the stick bar, even at high concentration of magnesium oxide in a minimalist stick format.
Other features and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following more detailed description of the desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The foregoing description illustrates and describes the present invention. Additionally, the disclosure shows and describes only the preferred embodiments but, as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it is capable to use in various other combinations, modifications, and environments and is capable of changes or modifications within the scope of the invention concepts as expressed herein, commensurate with the above teachings and/or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art.
The embodiments described herein below are further intended to explain best modes known by Applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such, or other, embodiments and with the various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof.
Accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. Also, it is intended to the appended claims be construed to include alternative embodiments.
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein.
The terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
All percentages, parts and ratios are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the specific ingredient level and, therefore, do not include solvents, carriers, by-products, filler or other minor ingredients that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.
All ranges and values disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For examples, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
“Cosmetically acceptable” means that the item in question is compatible with any keratinous substrate. For example, “cosmetically acceptable carrier” means a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
The term "anhydrous" as used herein means that the antiperspirant composition of the present invention and the essential or optional components thereof, are substantially free of added or free water. From a formulation standpoint, this means that the antiperspirant compositions of the present invention contain less than about 2%, preferably less than about 1%, more preferably less than about 0.5%, most preferably zero percent, by weight of free or added water.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” which can encompass +/- 10%, +/- 8%, +/- 6%, +/- 5%, +/- 4%, +/- 3%, +/- 2%, +/- 1%, or +/- 0.5%.
The term “stable” used herein refers to a physical or chemical property of a cosmetic composition such as a deodorant anhydrous stick that does not change significantly over time, as well as there is no breakage of the stick bar. For example, no significant amount of precipitation, color change or exudation of an oil (e.g., less than about 10, 5, 1 , 0.5 or 0.1 wt%) is observed in a deodorant anhydrous stick during a predetermined time period, for example, within about 1 , 3, 6, 12, 18 or 24 months.
In an embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
(a) about 3% to about 15% of a deodorant active agent, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) about 4% to about 40% of fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) about 15% to about 40% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol; and (d) about 20% to about 50% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
All the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.
In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a deodorant active agent in a range of from about 3% to about 15%, preferably about 5% to about 12% to about 7% to about 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the fatty compound(s) in a range of from about 4% to about 40%, preferably about 8% to about 35%, more preferably from about 12% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a surfactant in a range of from about 15% to about 40%, preferably about 20% to about 35%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In another preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprises a solvent in a range of from about 20% to about 50%, more preferably from about 25% to about 45%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the present invention may also comprise fragrance, in a range of from about 0.5% to 10%, preferably about 1 ,6% by weight, relative on the total weight of the composition.
The anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily product for the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition may be in the form of lotions, milks, creams, gels, gel creams, foams, sprays and sticks. In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a stick.
In an embodiment, the anhydrous deodorant composition of the present invention may present a hardness of about 400g to about 1000g, measured by means of a Stable Micro Systems™ Needle probe, following a penetrometry protocol.
In another preferred embodiment, the present invention is related to the use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition for manufacturing a product for reducing, masking or absorbing human unpleasant body odors, which can be used as deodorant daily product.
A preferential example of a suitable deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) about 5% to about 12% of a deodorant active agent, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) about 6% to about 30% of fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) about 20% to about 35% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol; and
(d) about 20% to about 40% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
In another preferential example of a suitable deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises:
(a) 5% to 12% of magnesium oxide;
(b1 ) 5% to 10% hydrogenated castor oil;
(b2) 20% to 30% of isopropyl myristate;
(c) 20% to 35% of cetearyl alcohol; and
(d) 25% to 40% of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
All the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.
Another embodiment of the present invention is related to a process of manufacturing an anhydrous cosmetic composition, as defined in the present application, comprising the steps of:
(i) melting at 75°C all the fatty compounds and solvent;
(ii) decreasing the temperature for 60°C and add the MgO; and
(iii) filling around 60°C and freezing at 4°C for make it hard, as a bar. Optionally, fragrance(s) can be added in step (ii).
DEODORANT ACTIVE AGENTS
In addition to the magnesium oxide, the composition of the present invention may further comprise any additional substance capable of reducing, masking or absorbing unpleasant human body odors, in particular underarm odors. Such deodorant active agent could be selected from bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on underarm odor microorganisms, such as 2,4,4' -trichloro- 2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (©Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3’,4’,5’-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3’,4’-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4’-chlorophenyl)urea (©Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2, 5,10-trienol (©Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise); glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM® from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY® and Dermosoft GMC® from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC® from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4- dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP® from Symrise); zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate or zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc PCA, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid.
The deodorant active agents may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleates, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or silver or silver-free zeolites, or cyclodextrins and derivatives thereof. They may also be chelating agents such as Dissolvine GL-47- S® from Akzo Nobel, EDTA and DPTA. They may also be a polyol of glycerol or 1 ,3- propanediol type (for example, Zemea Propanediol sold by Dupont Tate and Lyle BioProducts); or else an enzyme inhibitor such as triethyl citrate; or alum.
The deodorant active agents may also be agents for neutralizing foul smelling volatile compounds, such as sodium bicarbonate, for example sold by Universal Preserv-A-Chem, magnesium carbonate, for example sold by Buschle & Lepper, calcium carbonate, for example sold by Sensient, zinc oxide, for example sold by Kobo, calcium oxide or calcium hydroxide; amine derivatives such as tromethamine (for example, TRIS AMINO ULTRA sold by Angus (Dow chemical), triethanolamine, triethylamine and ethanolamine.
The amount of the deodorant active agent may range from about 3% to about 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
FATTY COMPOUNDS
The fatty compounds may be any cosmetically acceptable fatty substance suitable for providing softness to the stick and effective for keeping the same or similar deposit quantity of the stick when applied despite of the hardness of the stick. In addition to the preferably fatty compounds of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, the invention may comprise additional fatty compounds selected from oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made to polar or slightly polar oils, i.e. oils including an alkyl chain, preferably a C3-C40 alkyl chain. Non-limiting examples of oils to be used in the present invention include: linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, liquid petroleum jelly and light naphthalene oils, and lanolin, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; or also caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R + R’ is >10, for instance, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C12-C13 alkyl) tartrates, and also di(linear C14-C15 alkyl) tartrates, or acetates. silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS's), optionally including a C3-C40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain, such as phenyltrimethicones, optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorosilicones and perfluoro oils; mixtures thereof.
Non-liming examples of fatty alcohols useful for the present invention are those liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon- based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol.
Non-limiting examples of fatty acids useful for the present invention are higher fatty C12-C22 acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid.
The oil may be chosen from silicones likedimethine, vegetable oils, petroleum-based oils like petrolatum, esters, or combinations thereof. The fatty compound may be selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-14 butyl ether, and a combination thereof.
The amount of the fatty compound(s) may range from about 4% to about 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
SURFACTANTS
The anhydrous deodorant composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol.
Non-limiting examples of surfactants useful in the present invention include, for example, alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol, polyglycerol ester of fatty acids, mixtures of alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of glycerol with polyglyceryl, such as polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, especially alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) such as decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, and also arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside.
Oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers are preferably those having a number of ethylene or propylene oxide (EO/PO) units ranging from 2 to 200. Mention may be made to steareth 40, steareth 100, beheneth 40 and beheneth 100.
Alkyl- esters of glycerol includes glyceryl esters of fatty acids, such as glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. As polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- , or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol) can be cited, preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate).
Polyglycerol esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol having from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, polyglycerol esters of fatty acid are selected from esters derived from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 4 to 10 glycerol units, and of at least a fatty acid having less than 16 carbon atoms, preferably less than 15 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester of fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol esters derived from the reaction comprising 4 to 10 glycerol units and of at least one fatty acid comprising from 8 to 12 carbon atoms preferably 10 to 12 carbon atoms such as lauric acid and / or capric acid. There may be mentioned for example the ester from polyglyceryl-10 reaction (glycerol homopolymer comprising 10 glycerol units) and lauric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl- 10 laurate) such as that marketed by the company Dr Straetmans under the DERMOFEEL reference G 10 L, the ester from the reaction polyglycerol-4 (glycerol homopolymer comprising 4 glycerol units) and capric acid (INCI name: polyglyceryl-4 caprate) such as that marketed by Evonik under the reference Tegosoft PC 41 . Examples of oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 8 to 100 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-8 to PEG-50 laurate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 palmitate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 stearate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 distearate PEG-8 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-8 to PEG-50 behenate; polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
Other examples of nonionic surfactants to be used in the surfactant system of the present invention include polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of the structure below:
H-(0-CH2-CH2)a-(0-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(0-CH2-CH2)a’-0H, in which a, a’ range from 2 to 150, and b ranges from 1 to 100.
In the chemical structure described above, preferably, a and a’ range from 10 to 130 and b ranges from 20 to 80, better still a and a’ range from 50 to 130 and b ranges from 30 to 80, and even better still a and a’ range from 80 to 130 and b ranges from 40 to 80. According to one particular embodiment, a and a’ are identical.
The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 250 to 19 000, better still ranging from 1200 to 15 000, in particular ranging from 1500 to 10 000 and even better still ranging from 1500 to 5000.
As polycondensate products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate products sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic® PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108), Synperonic® PE/F108 (INCI name: Poloxamer 338), Synperonic® PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124), Synperonic® PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122), Synperonic® PE/F127 (INCI name: Poloxamer 407), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184), Synperonic® PE/F88 (INCI name: Poloxamer 238), Synperonic® PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) by the company Croda, or Lutrol® F68 (INCI name: Poloxamer 188) by the company BASF.
The amount of the surfactant may range from about 15% to about 40%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
SOLVENT
Synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 - C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the solvent may range from about 20% to about 50%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
In addition to the essential components described hereinbefore, the composition of the invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, actives, vitamins, silicones, polymers, and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Non-limiting example of preserving agent which can be used in accordance with the invention include phenoxyethanol.
An example of antioxidant is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
Suitable additional actives include, but are not limited to disodium EDTA, triethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting example of vitamins suitable for the composition of the present invention includes tocopherol.
Additional ingredients may represent from about 1% to 30%, such as from 60% to 85% or such as from 70 to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the invention.
By way of non-limiting illustration, the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples.
EXAMPLES
Suitable anhydrous deodorant cosmetic compositions according to the present invention and the state of the art were prepared according to compositions in the Examples 1 to 4 below:
Figure imgf000014_0001
EXEMPLE 5 - SNIFF TEST OF UNDERARM MALODOR BY THE SENSORY OLFACTIVE EXPERT PANEL
Background:
A whole range: aerosol, roll-on and stick is under development. This new range is designed to:
(1) Be the champion of no nasties: without ACH (dermatogists will be able to advise our products to people with previous reaction to aluminium salts), no alcohol;
(2) Challenge AP products for perceived efficacy against sweat odors. For stick, the objective is to provide to the market the best non-aluminum stick. This stick will have the same efficacy level as AP stick on malodor perception, i.e. parity with AP sticks (& superior on deo stick). Objective:
Evaluation of anti-odor efficacy of stick formulas at 24h after only one application. Identification of the best candidate for the present application:
1. Are the compositions of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 and EXAMPLE 3 superior on deodorant stick (vs EXAMPLE 6 below)?
2. Are the compositions of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 and EXAMPLE 3 parity with AP stick (vs EXAMPLE 5 below)?
Products:
The examples of the state of the art (for comparison) are described in the table below:
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
Method:
Sensory Analysis - Objective assessment by Smell Good Expert Panel
Parameters according to protocol:
Standardized evaluation of malodor intensities of the underarm malodor after 24hours by 10 panelists.
Randomized application of products to 17 volunteer’s underarms with strong axillary malodor (no washout or volunteer inclusion).
Quantity applied: 0,4g (+/-0,05)
NB: Before the application we asked the volunteers to warm up the product on their fingertips to facilitate the underarm application.
Data Analysis Data acquisition and treatment obtained by FIZZ and
XLStat.
Results regarding malodor intensity at T24h
- Comparison of the 2 deodorant prototypes efficacy:
There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes.
- Versus EXAMPLE 5
There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes and Market product I on deo efficacy.
- Versus Market product II
There is no significant difference between the composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) and EXAMPLE 6.
Therefore, the composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) is more efficient on deo efficacy than Market product II.
Results regarding fragrance intensity at T24h
- Comparison of the 2 deodorant prototypes fragrance:
There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes.
- Versus EXAMPLE 5
There is no significant difference between the 2 prototypes and Market product I on their fragrance intensities.
- Versus EXAMPLE 6
The composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) and the composition of present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) have a more intense fragrance than EXAMPLE 6.
As a conclusion, the composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 3 (Clean MgO 10%) is more efficient on deodorant efficacy than EXAMPLE 6. The composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) is not significantly different.
The composition of the present invention (Clean MgO 10%) and the composition of the present invention as EXAMPLE 2 (Clean MgO 7%) presented excellent bad odor efficacy.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS
1 . Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 3% to 15% of a deodorant active agent, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% of fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol; and
(d) 20% to 50% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; wherein all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition.
2. An anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , in which the composition optionally includes a fragrance in an amount of 0.5 to 1 .0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. An anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 5% to 12% of magnesium oxide;
(b1 ) 5% to 10% hydrogenated castor oil;
(b2) 20% to 30% of isopropyl myristate;
(c) 20% to 35% of cetearyl alcohol; and
(d) 25% to 40% of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.
4. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is in the form of a stick.
5. The anhydrous cosmetic composition, according to claim 1 , wherein the composition aluminum free.
6. A process of manufacturing an anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, wherein the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) 3% to 15% of a deodorant active agent, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% of fatty compound(s) selected from hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol; and (d) 20% to 45% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; wherein all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition, the method comprises the steps of:
(i) melting at 75°C all the fatty compounds and solvent;
(ii) decreasing the temperature for 60°C and add the MgO; and
(iii) filling around 60°C and freezing at 4°C for make it hard, as a bar.
7. A method, according to claim 6, in which the method optionally includes fragrance(s) added in step (ii).
8. Use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, comprising:
(a) 3% to 15% of a deodorant active agent, selected from magnesium oxide;
(b) 4% to 40% of fatty compound(s) selected fom hydrogenated castor oil, isopropyl myristate or a mixture thereof;
(c) 15% to 40% of a surfactant, selected from cetearyl alcohol; and
(d) 20% to 45% of a solvent, selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; wherein all the amounts mentioned above are based on the total weight of the composition, for the manufacture of a product to be used as cosmetic daily product, more precisely a deodorant.
9. Use, according to claim 8, wherein the daily product is in the form of a stick.
10. Use, according to claim 8, wherein the daily product in stick form is a deodorant against body malodor, more precisely on the underarm skin surface.
PCT/BR2020/050232 2020-06-30 2020-06-30 Anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition, process of manufacturing the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition and use of the anhydrous deodorant cosmetic composition WO2022000050A1 (en)

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