FR3070605A1 - LOW MOLECULAR WEIGHT POLYETHYLENE IMINE AS ANTI-TRANSPIRANT ACTIVE INGREDIENT AS O / W EMULSION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic antiperspirant agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly suitable for application with a ball applicator or "roll-ons". The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains, as an antiperspirant active ingredient, a defined homo-polyethyleneimine (hereinafter also sometimes referred to as "PEI"), which is present with selected anions, and has a pH of which the value goes from acid to neutral. The use of a cosmetic agent containing PEI of this kind makes it possible to provide antiperspirant cosmetic agents which do not contain aluminum salts and / or zirconium salts but which are nonetheless very effective and reduce the formation stains on textiles. Thanks to the presence of homo-polyethyleneimine, the cosmetic agent according to the invention is also in the form of a thickened, liquid-crystalline form, suitable for applicators with ball or roll-ons, even in the absence of aluminum salts.

Description

The present invention relates to an antiperspirant cosmetic agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly suitable for application with a ball applicator or “roll-ons”. The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains, as an antiperspirant active principle, a defined homo-polyethyleneimine (hereinafter also sometimes referred to as "PEI"), which is present with selected anions, and has a pH value acidic or neutral. The use of a cosmetic agent containing PEI of this kind makes it possible to provide antiperspirant cosmetic agents which do not contain aluminum salts and / or zirconium salts but which are nevertheless very effective and reduce the formation stains on textiles. Thanks to the presence of homo-polyethyleneimine, the cosmetic agent according to the invention also comes in the form of a thickened, liquid-crystalline form, suitable for ball or roll applicators, even in the absence of aluminum salts.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or reducing body sweating, in which an antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the skin, in particular to the skin of the armpits, and remains on the armpit skin for at least 1 hour, preferably for at least 2 hours, preferably for at least 4 hours, in particular for at least 6 hours.

Washing, cleaning and taking care of one's own body is a basic human need, and modern industry is constantly trying to meet this human need in various ways. The permanent elimination or at least the reduction of body odor and underarm sweat are particularly important for daily hygiene. Many personal hygiene agents, especially deodorants or antiperspirants, are known in the prior art, which have been developed for use in parts of the body having a high density of sweat glands, in particular in the armpits. These are packaged in the most diverse forms of presentation, for example in the form of powder, stick, aerosol, pump, liquid application or in the form of gel with a ball or roll-on, of cream. , gel and impregnated flexible substrates (deodorant towels).

The cosmetic antiperspirants listed in the prior art contain, in addition to at least one oil or a wax and perfumed component or a perfume, at least one antiperspirant compound in the form of aluminum salts and / or aluminum salts -zirconium, in particular in the form of aluminum halides and / or hydroxyhalides and / or zirconium. These antiperspirant compounds on the one hand reduce the secretion of sweat by the body by temporarily shrinking and / or obstructing the excretory ducts of the sweat glands, so that the amount of sweat can be reduced by about 20 to 60%. On the other hand, they have an additional deodorant effect due to their antimicrobial action.

Aluminum and / or zirconium halides and / or hydroxyhalides, combined with the acidic pH of these antiperspirants, can cause unpleasant skin reactions in some users. In addition, the use of the above-mentioned antiperspirant compounds may cause the appearance of stains on clothing.

Ball applicator emulsions containing aluminum salts and a water-in-oil emulsifier can form liquid crystal structures which thicken or stabilize the emulsion and make it suitable for applications with a roll-on device ). Without aluminum salts such as aluminum chlorohydrates, these thickened structures have only an insufficient consistency and the compositions lose stability.

WO 2006/018073 A1 describes various polyamines, including polyethyleneimines, as alternatives to aluminum and / or zirconium halides and / or hydroxyhalides as antiperspirants. These antiperspirant agents are described as “flocculants” in document WO 2006/018073 A1, which means that the light transmission of natural sweat is reduced by at least 10% on contact with the antiperspirant agent. The document WO 2006/018073 A1 further describes that the water-soluble flocculating polymers are in a partially or completely quaternized form at a pH ranging from 4 to 8. It is assumed that the antiperspirant effect is due to the fact that the flocculations thus formed obstruct the exits of the sweat glands. The formation of flocculants is often perceived by consumers as visually unpleasant, and flocculants can also permeate clothing and cause stains in these areas.

The object of the present invention was to provide antiperspirants without halides and / or hydroxyhalides of aluminum and / or zirconium having a consistency suitable for applications with a roll-on device. The antiperspirant active ingredients contained in the cosmetic agent should have an improved or very good quality antiperspirant effect and cause less appearance of stains on textiles.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of certain polyethyleneimines, contained in a cosmetic agent, the pH of which has been set at an acid to neutral value, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing certain anions, have thickened liquid crystal structures including in the absence of aluminum salts and simultaneously have an antiperspirant power comparable to the antiperspirant power of formulations comprising aluminum salts and / or aluminum-zirconium salts. The antiperspirant agents according to the invention therefore do not contain antiperspirant halides and / or aluminum and / or zirconium hydroxyhalides.

The present invention is in particular characterized by the following points:

1. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing:

at. at least one branched homo-polyethyleneimine having a molecular weight ranging from 300 to 10,000 g / mol in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in which the polyethyleneimine has a proportion of amino groups with three radicals atom different from hydrogen ranging from 20 mol% to 35 mol%, based on the molar amount of all the amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine,

b. at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight,

vs. at least one non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and

d. at least one oily component in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in which

- the quantities indicated refer respectively to the total quantity of the oil-in-water emulsion,

the oil-in-water emulsion has a pH value ranging from 2.5 to 7.5 and the polyethyleneimine is polycationic,

- the oil-in-water emulsion contains at least one anion chosen from the group comprising chloride, phosphate and sulfate, the oil-in-water emulsion does not contain halides and / or hydroxyhalides of aluminum and / or zirconium, and

- the oil-in-water emulsion has a viscosity ranging from 300 to 6,000 mPa s (20 ° C, Brookfield, RV 3 or RV 4 spindle).

2. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to point 1, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion contains from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 5.0% by weight of homo-polyethyleneimine.

3. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to point 1 or 2, characterized in that, in the oil-in-water emulsion, 10%, 30%, 50%, 95.0% by weight or more, more preferred 99.0% by weight to 100% by weight of the anions contained are chloride ions.

4. antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion has a pH value determined at 22 ° C ranging from 2.5 to 7.0, preferably 3.0 to 5.5, more preferably 3.3 to 4.5.

5. Cosmetic antiperspirant agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the homo-polyethyleneimine has a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 3000 mol / g, preferably from 1000 to 2000 mol / g .

6. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the total amount of the at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, and preferably chosen from nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value ranging from 1 to 6, which are chosen from linear saturated and unsaturated C12C ₃₀ alkanols, etherified with 1 to 4 oxide oxide units ethylene per molecule, in which steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth having respectively 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred.

7. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the total amount of the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion, and preferably chosen from nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 8, preferably ranging from 12 to 18, which are chosen from linear saturated and unsaturated, etherified C12-C24 alkanols with 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule, in which steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth having respectively 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred.

8. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the total amount of the at least one oily component is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

9. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsion contains at least one deodorant active principle in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion.

10. Cosmetic antiperspirant agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion also contains at least one anion chosen from the group comprising citrate, lactate, tartrate and malate .

11. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it contains from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight of steareth-2 as a non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier and from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight of steareth-21 as an oil-in-water nonionic emulsifier.

12. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it contains 0.5% by weight or less, preferably does not contain an agent for forming inorganic polymer hydrogels and / or organic.

13. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding points, characterized in that it is packaged in a container comprising a ball applicator or a “roll-on” type applicator.

14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic method intended to prevent and / or reduce body odor and / or body sweating, in which a cosmetic agent according to one of points 1 to 13 is applied to the skin, in particular to the skin armpits, and remains on the skin for at least 1 hour, preferably for at least 2 hours, preferably for at least 4 hours, in particular for at least 6 hours.

According to the invention, the term “antiperspirant” is understood to mean reducing or reducing the perspiration of the sweat glands of the body.

In the context of the present invention, the term “aluminum and / or zirconium halides and / or hydroxyhalides” is understood to mean in particular chlorides, bromides and iodides of aluminum and zirconium as well as compounds of the formulas AI (OH) _y X and Zr (OH) _z X, in which X represents a halide ion. The fact that, according to the invention, the cosmetic agent does not contain any aluminum halide and / or hydroxyhalide and / or zirconium means that their content is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably is less than 0 , 1% by weight, particularly preferably is 0% by weight.

In the present invention, the data expressed as a percentage by weight relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total amount of the cosmetic agent.

The presence of at least one branched homo-polyethyleneimine (“PEI”) is essential for the present invention. Homo-polyethyleneimines are generally composed of the following structural units and can be linear or branched.

not

Branched polyethyleneimines can be described by the following partial schematic structural formula, i.e. a section of the entire structure with no ends shown, and can have different ratios of primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups.

Polyethyleneimines can also be branched into a star.

Branched and unbranched homo-polyethyleneimines have an alkaline pH value in aqueous solution. In the acid pH range, the quaternizable amino groups are present in partially to completely quaternized form.

Surprisingly, it has been found in the context of the present invention that certain branched homo-polyethyleneimines are characterized, within a range of acidic to neutral pH values and in combination with certain anions, in particular chloride ions, by an excellent antiperspirant effect. When adjusting an acid pH value by means of hydrochloric acid in particular, so that chloride ions are present as anions, an excellent antiperspirant effect has been observed. Even at low concentrations of such PEI, at about 3% by weight, an antiperspirant effect comparable to that of a 10% by weight aluminum hydrochloride solution could be obtained.

The homo-polyethyleneimines used according to the invention are branched polyethyleneimines which are not modified, that is to say which have no substituents on the nitrogen atoms apart from the hydrogen radicals. According to the invention, homo-polyethyleneimines are also understood to mean that they are composed only of ethyleneimine as a structural unit and do not have other comonomers, such as, for example, other units alkyleneimines.

As mentioned above, branched homo-polyethyleneimines may have different ratios of primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups. The homo-polyethyleneimines used according to the invention are those having, in a range of alkaline pH values, a proportion in tertiary amino groups of 20% by mole to 35% in mole relative to the total amount of the amino groups of homopolyethyleneimine. Since the homo-polyethyleneimines are according to the invention within a range of acid pH values, the amino groups are partially or completely quaternized. Consequently, in the present invention, it is not the proportion of tertiary amino groups in homopolyethyleneimine which is defined, but the proportion of amino groups having three radicals of different hydrogen atoms at the 20% level. 35 mol% mole, based on the molar amount of all amino groups, i.e., quaternized and non-quaternized amino groups, in homopolyethyleneimine (i.e., summed to all groups containing one, two and three radicals of different atoms of hydrogen). According to the invention, the proportion of amino groups having three radicals of different atoms of hydrogen is preferably from 21 to 32 mol%, more preferably from 22 to 30 mol%, respectively based on the quantity molar of all amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine.

According to the invention, the proportion of amino groups having a radical other than hydrogen (corresponding to the primary amino groups at alkaline pH) is preferably 30 to 45% by mole, more preferably 35 to 42% in mole, respectively related to the molar amount of all the amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine.

According to the invention, the proportion of amino groups having two different radicals of hydrogen (corresponding to secondary amino groups at alkaline pH) is preferably from 30 to 45% by mole, more preferably from 32 to 40% by mole, even more preferably from 34 to 38 mol%, respectively based on the molar amount of all the amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine.

In the particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, the proportion of amino groups having a radical different from hydrogen (corresponding to the primary amino groups at alkaline pH) is from 35 to 42% by mole, the proportion of amino groups having two radicals different from hydrogen (corresponding to secondary amino groups at alkaline pH) is from 34 to 38 mol% and the proportion in amino groups having three different radicals from hydrogen is from 22 to 30 mol%, respectively related to the molar amount of all amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine.

The proportion of primary, secondary and tertiary amino groups, based on the molar amount of all amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine, can be determined by NMR spectroscopy.

The fact that the cosmetic agent has a pH value defined at an acid level, ranging from 2.5 to 7.5 (determined at 22 ° C.), is essential for the present invention. The pH of the cosmetic agent according to the invention is preferably adjusted in a range from 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 5.5, even more preferably from 3, 3 to 4.5. As already mentioned, the aqueous solutions of unmodified homo-polyethyleneimines have an alkaline pH. In order to bring the pH within the claimed range according to the invention, a pH adjusting agent is used. According to the invention, inorganic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid and / or sulfuric acid are particularly suitable for this purpose. The cosmetic agent according to the invention consequently contains chloride ions, sulfate ions and / or phosphate ions as inorganic anions, chloride ions being particularly preferred. The best antiperspirant effect has been observed with chloride ions. In preferred embodiments, chloride is therefore included as an inorganic anion. Preferably, the proportion of chloride ions is 10%, 30%, 50%, 95.0% by weight or more, more preferably from 99.0% by weight to 100% by weight, relative to all contained anions. According to the invention, the hydrogen sulfates belong to the category of sulfate ions. According to the invention, hydrogenophosphates and dihydrogenophosphates also belong to the category of phosphates.

In embodiments of the invention, at least one other anion may be included in addition to the chloride, sulfate and / or phosphate ions. Inorganic anions or organic anions can be included as other anions. The organic anions can be, for example, phosphonates, citrate, lactate, tartrate and / or malate. In the context of the present invention, it has been found that the exclusive use of organic anions, such as lactate and / or citrate, does not make it possible to obtain an antiperspirant effect or does not make it possible to obtain only a weak antiperspirant effect. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agents therefore contain lactate and / or citrate in a total amount of less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, even more preferred 0% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic agent.

In preferred embodiments of the invention, apart from chloride ions, sulfate ions and / or phosphate ions, no other anions are contained.

According to the invention, the homo-polyethyleneimines contained in the cosmetic agent have an average molecular weight Mw ranging from 300 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably from 500 to 3,000 g / mol, more preferably from 1,000 at 2000 g / mol. The average molecular weight Mw can be determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) (Andrews P: "Estimation of the

Molecular Weights of Proteins by Sephadex Gel-Filtration ”; Biochem. J., 1964, 91, pages 222 to 233).

The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains at least one homopolyethyleneimine in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic agent. More preferably, the at least one homo-polyethyleneimine is contained in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 7.0% by weight, even more preferred 2.5 to 5.0% by weight. Due to the excellent antiperspirant effect of homo-polyethyleneimine in the acidic pH range as chloride, sulfate and / or phosphate, especially as chloride, an excellent anti-perspirant effect can be obtained. sweating even when using relatively low concentrations.

The antiperspirant effect is based on influencing the sweat gland (s). By the expression “influence the sweat gland (s)”, it is understood according to the invention that the act of influencing the sweat gland (s) in order to prevent or reduce the secretion of sweat through the excretory ducts.

The antiperspirant cosmetic agent of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The cosmetic agent according to the invention therefore contains at least one oil-in-water emulsifier.

The at least one emulsifier is present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 4 0.0% by weight, even more preferably of

1.5 to 3.0% by weight.

The emulsifiers suitable according to the invention can be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, in particular ampholytic and zwitterionic emulsifiers. However, since according to the invention homo-polyethyleneimine is present with certain anions, in particular chloride, non-ionic emulsifiers are particularly preferred according to the invention. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic agent according to the invention therefore contains only nonionic emulsifiers.

Oil-in-water emulsifiers:

The cosmetic agents according to the invention, which are formulated in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, contain at least one oil-in-water emulsifier, preferably at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 7 and up to 20. These are emulsifiers which are generally known to those skilled in the art. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100 - L): 5, where L is the proportion by weight of the lipophilic groups, that is to say fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in ethylene oxide adducts, expressed as a percentage by weight. When selecting suitable nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention, it is particularly preferred to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers to optimally adjust the stability of the compositions according to the invention. invention. The individual emulsifier components thus deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or to the average HLB value of the mixture of oil-in-water emulsifiers as a function of their proportion in the total amount of oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the average HLB value of the mixture of oil-in-water emulsifiers is 10-19, preferably 12-18 and particularly preferably 14-17. In order to achieve such average HLB values, oil-in-water emulsifiers will preferably be combined from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and, where appropriate, 16-19. Of course, mixtures of oil-in-water emulsifiers can also contain nonionic emulsifiers having HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 19-20; mixtures of such emulsifiers may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention may also contain a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from

10-19. The preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention contain at least one non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier chosen from C8-C24 ethoxylated alkanols having on average 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, the ethoxylated C8-C24 carboxylic acids having on average 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, the silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8-22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4 fatty acid residues C8 -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly hydroxylated, in so far as they have an HLB value greater than 7, as well as mixtures of the above-mentioned substances. The formula for ethoxylated Cs-C ₂ 4 alkanols is R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH2O) _n H, where R ¹ represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers ranging from 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide per 1 mole of capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauric alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselenyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures. The adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide on technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as fatty alcohol from coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow, are also suitable.

The preferred cosmetic agents contain a nonionic emulsifier from the group of polyalkylene glycol ethers, preferably from the group of alkoxylated C 8 -C 24 alkanols having an average of 10-100 moles of alkylene oxide per mole, preferably from the group of alkanols. C12-C18 ethoxylates having on average 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole.

The formula for ethoxylated C ₃ -C ₂ 4 carboxylic acids is R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH2) _n OH, where R ¹ represents a linear or branched acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers ranging from 10 -100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide per 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid, as well as their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide on technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate are particularly preferred. In a particularly preferred manner, use will be made of C12-C18 alkanols or C12-C18 carboxylic acids having respectively 10-30 ethylene oxide units per molecule as well as mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-12 , ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20. In addition, use will preferably be made of C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides. C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known surfactants and emulsifiers which are readily available on the market. Their production is carried out in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. As regards the glycoside residue, it is established that the monoglycosides to which a cyclic sugar residue is linked glycosidically to the fatty alcohol are just as suitable as the oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to approximately 8, preferably 1-2. As such, the degree of oligomerization is an average statistical value based on a typical counterpart distribution for such technical products. The products available under the name Plantacare® contain a C ₈ Ci6 alkyl group with glucoside bond on an oligoglucoside residue whose average degree of oligomerization is 1-2, in particular 1.1-1.4. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C 22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are chosen from octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, palmitylglucoside, isostearylglucoside, stearylglucoside, arachidylglucoside and behenylglucoside as well as last. Glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers. Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably being at least 10, to have an HLB value greater than 7 and going up to 20. The commercial products PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol, for example, are suitable. In addition, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters are preferably used in the since they have an HLB value in the range from more than 7 to 20. The following substances are particularly preferred: diglycerol monocaprylate, diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, triglycerol monocaprylate, triglycerol monocaprate, triglycerol monolaurate, tetraglycerol monocaprylate, tetraglycerol monocaprate, tetraglycerol monolaurate, pentaglycerol monocaprylate, pentaglycerol monocaprate, pentaglycerol monolaurate, hexaglycerol monocaprylate, hexaglycerol monocaprate, monaglycerol monolaurate monoxide, decaglycerol, decaglycerol monocaprate, monolaur decaglycerol ate, decaglycerol monomyristate, decaglycerol monoisostearate, decaglycerol monostearate, decaglycerol monooleate, decaglycerol monohydroxystearate, decaglycerol dicaprylate, decaglycerol decaglycerol decaglycerol decaglycerol, decaglycerol decaglycerol decaglycerol, decaglycerol decaglycerol, decaglycerol decaglycerol, decaglycerol, decaglycerol dihydroxystearate, decaglycerol tricaprylate, decaglycerol tricaprate, decaglycerol trilaurate, decaglycerol trimyristate, decaglycerol triisostearate, decaglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol trioleate and trihydroxysterate. Other particularly suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers are polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil (PEGHydrogenated Castor Oil). Particularly preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier is present in a total amount ranging from 0.5-10% by weight, in a particularly preferred manner from 1-4% by weight and most preferably 1.5-3% by weight, based on the entire composition.

Water-in-oil emulsifiers:

The cosmetic agents according to the invention also contain at least one water-in-oil emulsifier, preferably at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 , chosen from the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters of pentaerythritol having linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated , as well as mixtures thereof, as a consistency regulator and / or aqueous binder. Mono- and diesters are preferred according to the invention. The preferred fatty acid radicals in C12-C30 according to the invention are chosen from the residues of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid; the stearic acid residue is particularly preferred. The non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are chosen from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures of these. Particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are, for example, commercially available products Cutina® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate) , Cutina® AGS (INCI: Glycol distearate) or Cutina® EGMS (INCI: Glycol stearate). These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (pentaerythrityl esters also contain tri- and tetraesters). According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only one water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, technical mixture, for example means a commercial product such as Cutina® PES. In addition to the indicated water-in-oil emulsifiers based on ethylene glycol or pentaerythrityl esters, at least one other non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 can also be included in a preferred embodiment, the share of which in the total weight of nonionic oil-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and preferably less than or equal to 7.0 preferably, preferably should not however not be greater than 80%. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one additional water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 only in a proportion by weight not more than 5% or are free of additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated. The water-in-oil emulsifiers which are preferably suitable are:

- linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, which can be obtained by industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,

- the esters and in particular the partial esters of a polyol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and the saturated and unsaturated linear fatty acids having from 12-30, in particular from 14-22 carbon atoms, which can be branched and / or hydroxylated. As such esters or partial esters, one can e.g. cite glycerol mono- and diesters or propylene glycol monoesters having linear or branched, saturated and unsaturated CC carboxylic acids which can be hydroxylated, in particular those with palmitic, isostearic and stearic acid, mono-, di- or sorbitan triesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated CC carboxylic acids which can be hydroxylated, in particular those with myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids and the mono- and diesters of methyl glucose of linear, saturated and unsaturated CC carboxylic acids which can be hydroxylated;

- sterols, that is to say the steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and which are isolated both from animal tissues (zoosterols, for example cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, for example ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) and which may be weakly ethoxylated (1-5 EO);

- alkanols and carboxylic acids having respectively 8-24 carbon atoms, in particular 16-22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and having 14 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal at 7.0,

- glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

- partial esters of polyglycerols where n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 5 fatty acid esters of CC saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, insofar as they have an HLB value less than or equal at 7,

- as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only one additional water-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example of technical mixture, one hears for example a commercial product such as Cutina® GMS, which is a mixture of glycerol monostearate and glycerol distearate. The additional water-in-oil emulsifiers which can be used in a particularly advantageous manner are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, in particular in the form of the commercial products Cutina® GMS and Cutina® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monohydroxystearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monolanolate, glyceryl monolanolate, glyceryl monolanolate glyceryl dipalmitate, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan monostearate , sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbit sesquioleate donkey, sucrose distearate, peanut alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl ether (2) of polyethylene glycol (steareth-2), steareth 5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, monoisostearate diglycerol, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol monostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol pentearglyceride pentaglycerol, pentaglycerol decenter decaglycerol, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate.

The preferred deodorant or antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is present in a total amount ranging from 0.1-10% by weight, preferably from 0, 58.0% by weight, and particularly preferably from 1-4% by weight, based on the entire composition. In addition, amounts ranging from 2-3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, according to the invention can also be extremely preferred. HLB values can be calculated using the Griffin method. If there is different information on the HLB value of a substance in the literature, the HLB value which is closest to the value calculated according to the Griffin method must be used for the teachings according to the invention. If no unambiguous HLB value can be determined in this way, the HLB value specified by the manufacturer of the emulsifier should be used for teaching according to the invention. If this is not possible either, the HLB value must be determined experimentally.

The silicones modified by poly (C2-C3) alkylene glycol whose previous INCI name was Dimethicone Copolyol, bearing the current INCI names PEG-x Dimethicone (where x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, particularly preferably 11 -12), Bis-PEG-y Dimethicone (where y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b Dimethicone (where a and b represent independently of each other numbers ranging from 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferably 12-20, in particular 14-18), the BisPEG / PPG-c / d Dimethicone (where c and d represent independently of each other numbers ranging from 10-25, preferably 14-20 and particularly preferably 14-16) and Bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h

Dimethicone (where e, f, g and h independently represent numbers ranging from 10-20, preferably 14-18 and particularly preferred 16) constitute a group of particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, which are commercially available under the name DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicone, or under the name DC ES-5227 DM mixed with dimethicone, PEG / PPG-4/12 Dimethicone available under the name Abil B 8852, as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone marketed under the name Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt) in mixture with cyclomethicone, BisPEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, available under the name Abil B 8832, PEG / PPG-5/3 Trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), as well as PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone ( Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440). Constitute other preferred W / O emulsifiers according to the invention: silicones modified by poly (C2-C3) alkylene glycol which are hydrophobically modified with C4-C18 alkyl groups, particularly preferably Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone (previously: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available under the name Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), as well as the alkyl methicone copolyols.

The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention have been developed in particular for ball products, that is to say for an application with a ball applicator or a “roll-on” type applicator. In order to have optimal dosing properties, the emulsion should not be too weakly viscous or too viscous. Thanks to the combination of homo-polyethyleneimine defined according to the invention, of the water-in-oil emulsifier and of the oil-in-water emulsifier, oil-in-water emulsions having crystal structures are formed. liquids with a viscosity suitable for “roll-on” type applications. The cosmetic agents of the present invention have a viscosity in the range from 300 to 6,000 mPa s, preferably about 750 to 2,000 mPas. These viscosity data refer to the measurements made with a Brookfield viscometer 1 day after preparation of the emulsion with the RV 3 or RV 4 spindle, at a shear rate (spindle speed) of 20 s ⁻¹ without helipath at room temperature and at a sample temperature of 20 ° C respectively. The O / W emulsion base of the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention induces good applicability in “roll-on” type applications and excellent delivery of the homo-polyethyleneimine active ingredient.

Since an appropriate thickening is already provided according to the invention, preferred embodiments according to the invention are those in which there are no agents for forming inorganic and / or organic polymer hydrogels, such as celluloses, cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxyalkylcelluloses, polyacrylates, Veegum or bentones. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents according to the invention do not contain any gel formed by agents for forming inorganic and / or organic polymer hydrogels.

In other embodiments of the invention, however, inorganic and / or organic polymeric hydrogel formers may be present in amounts, usually small, for fine adjustment of the fluidity.

In addition to a beneficial release of the active principle, the formulation in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion provides other advantages. First, the composition can be easily washed from the skin. On the other hand, an oil-in-water nourishing cream is formed during or after application to the skin with the moisture of the skin. In addition, the agents according to the invention confer a pleasantly fresh and refreshing sensation on the skin during application. In addition, the cosmetic agents according to the invention only deposit light white residues on the skin and on textiles.

The cosmetic agents of the present invention also contain at least one oily component in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight. By oily component is meant according to the invention cosmetic oils. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic oil" means an oil suitable for cosmetic use which is not miscible with water in any proportion. The cosmetic oil used according to the invention is neither a perfume nor essential oils.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as cosmetic oil at least one substance chosen from the group of cosmetic oils which are liquid at 20 ° C. and at 1,013 hPa.

In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic oil liquid at 20 ° C. and 1013 hPa is chosen from the group of (i) volatile cyclic silicone oils, in particular cyclic and linear silicone oils; (ii) volatile non-silicone oils, in particular paraffin oils and liquid isoparaffin oils;

(iii) non-volatile silicone oils; (iv) non-volatile non-silicone oils; and (v) their mixtures.

The term “volatile oil” designates, according to the invention, oils having, at 20 ° C and an ambient pressure of 1013 hPa, a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.02 to 300 mm Hg), preferably 10 to 12,000 Pa (0.1 to 90 mm Hg), more preferably 13 to 3,000 Pa (0.1 to 23 mm Hg), in particular 15 to 500 Pa (0 , 1 to 4 mm Hg).

In addition, the term “non-volatile oils” within the meaning of the present invention designates oils having a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa (0.02 mm Hg) at 20 ° C and at an ambient pressure of 1 013 hPa.

It is preferable according to the invention to use mixtures of volatile silicone oils and volatile non-silicone oils in the antiperspirant cosmetic agents according to the invention, since this leads to a drier skin sensation. Furthermore, in the context of the present invention, it may be preferable for the antiperspirant cosmetic agents to contain a non-volatile silicone oil and / or a non-volatile non-silicone oil intended to mask the insoluble constituents such as talc or the ingredients having dried on the skin.

The use of mixtures of non-volatile and volatile cosmetic oils is particularly preferred according to the invention, since this makes it possible to adjust parameters such as the skin sensation, the visibility of the residue and the stability of the antiperspirant cosmetic agent. according to the invention and thus better adapt it to the needs of the consumer.

The volatile cosmetic oils are usually chosen from cyclic silicone oils having the name INCI Cyclomethicone. The substances bearing the designation INCI Cyclomethicone are understood to mean in particular cyclotrisiloxane (hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane), cyclotetrasiloxane (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane), cyclopentasiloxane (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) and cyclohexasiloxane (dodecamethyl). These oils have a vapor pressure of approximately 13-15 Pa at 20 ° C. Cyclomethicones are known in the state of the art as being oils well suited for cosmetic compositions, in particular for deodorant compositions such as sprays and sticks. Due to their persistence in the environment, it may be preferred according to the invention to dispense with the use of cyclomethicones. In a specially preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention and used according to the invention contain from 0 to less than 1% by weight, preferably at most 0.1% by weight of cyclomethicones, relative to the weight of the composition, the propellant present if necessary not being taken into account. A preferred cyclomethicone substitute according to the invention consists of a mixture of C13-C16 isoparaffins, Ci ₂ -C ₁₄ isoparaffins and C ₁₃ -C ₁₅ alkanes whose viscosity at 25 ° C is included in the range from 2 to 6 mPas and which has a vapor pressure at 20 ° C in the range from 10 to 150 Pa, preferably from 100 to 150 Pa. Such a mixture is, for example. available under the name SiClone SR-5 from Presperse Inc. Other preferred volatile silicone oils are chosen from volatile linear silicone oils, in particular volatile linear silicone oils having 2 to 10 siloxane units, such as hexamethyldisiloxane (L2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), as present for example in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning® 200 (1.5 cSt ) from Dow Corning, and low molecular weight phenyltrimethicone having a vapor pressure at 20 ° C of about 2,000 Pa, marketed for example by GE Bayer Silicones / Momentive under the name Baysilone Fluid PD 5. Anti-aging compositions preferred perspirants according to the invention contain, due to the drier skin sensation and the faster release of the active ingredient, at least one volatile silicone oil, which can be cyclic or linear area. Other preferred agents according to the invention contain, due to the drier skin sensation and the faster release of the active ingredient, at least one volatile non-silicone oil. The preferred volatile non-silicone oils are chosen from C8-C16 isoparaffins, in particular from isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane and isohexadecane , as well as mixtures thereof. Mixtures of C10-C13 isoparaffins are preferred, in particular those having a vapor pressure at 20 ° C. of 10-400 Pa, preferably 13-100 Pa. Other preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one non-volatile cosmetic oil chosen from non-volatile silicone oils and non-volatile non-silicone oils. Residues of components insoluble in the composition, such as antiperspirant active ingredients (= antiperspirant aluminum salts) or talc, can be successfully masked with a non-volatile oil. In addition, with a mixture of different oils, in particular non-volatile and volatile oils, it is possible to precisely adjust parameters such as the skin sensation, the visibility of the residues and the stability of the composition of the invention. and better adapt them to the needs of the consumer. The preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic oil, which is not a perfume or an essential oil, comprises at least one volatile oil having a vapor pressure ranging from 10-3,000 Pa at 20 ° C, which is not a perfume or an essential oil, in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 100% by weight, particularly preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of cosmetic oils.

Of course, it is also possible to formulate agents according to the invention with a small proportion of volatile oils, based on the total weight of the agent, or even without volatile oils. The oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are the esters of linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, with linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 30 atoms carbon and can be hydroxylated. As such, it should be noted that certain esters of C1-C22 alkanols or linear or branched C14-C22 alkenols and certain glycerol triesters with linear or branched C2-C22 carboxylic acids, which may be saturated or unsaturated, are solid under normal conditions, such as, for example, cetyl stearate or glycerol tristearate (= stearin). These solid esters under normal conditions are not cosmetic oils according to the invention, because they do not fulfill the “liquid under normal conditions” condition. The fact of knowing whether such an ester is liquid or solid under normal conditions falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Preferred are esters of linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols having 2-18 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 3-18 carbon atoms which can be hydroxylated. As examples preferred in this respect, mention may be made of isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate. Also preferred are isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, 2-butyl octanoic butyl octanoic acid octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, C12-C15 alkyl lactate and C12-C13 dialkyl malate as well as the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cg-22 alkanols. Particularly preferred are C12-C15 alkyl esters of benzoic acid, which are e.g. marketed products. Other preferred oily components according to the invention are chosen from esters of C8-C22 fatty alcohols of mono- or polyvalent C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular esters of glycolic acid, of acid lactic, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. These esters based on linear C14 / 15 alkanols, e.g. C12C15 alkyl lactate, and based on C12 / 13 alkanols branched in 2 positions are known under the trade names Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI , Cosmacol® EMI and Cosmacol® ETI, Finsolv® TN (C12-C-15 alkyl benzoate), as well as the isostearyl ester of benzoic acid, e.g. available as Finsolv® SB, 2-ethylhexyl benzoate, e.g. available as Finsolv® EB and 2-octyldodecyl ester of benzoic acid, e.g. available as Finsolv® BOD.

Another particularly preferred ester oil is triethyl citrate.

The preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that these cosmetic agents contain an ester of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid, preferably an ester derived from the group comprising 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate and triethyl citrate .

The preferred products according to the invention may contain branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are often called Guerbet alcohols because they can be obtained after the Guerbet reaction. The preferred alcoholic oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2octyldodecanol and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol. Isostearyl alcohol is also preferred. Other preferred non-volatile oils are selected from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. 2-hexyldecanol and 2-hexyldecyl laurate. The term "triglyceride" used in the following text means "glycerol triester". Other non-volatile oils preferred according to the invention are chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids C8-30, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated, provided that they are liquid under normal conditions. The use of natural oils, e.g. soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, l corn oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and liquid fractions of coconut oil and similar substances may be particularly suitable. Particularly preferred are synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, e.g. the commercial products Myritol®318 or Myritol® 331 (BASF / Cognis) with unbranched fatty acid radicals as well as glyceryl triisostearine and glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) with branched fatty acid radicals. These triglyceride oils preferably represent less than 50% by weight of the total weight of all the cosmetic oils in the composition according to the invention. Particularly preferably, the total weight of the triglyceride oils is 0.5-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight, respectively based on the total composition, without taking account of the possible presence of a propellant. Other non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from esters of dicarboxylic acids of C 2 -C 10 alkanols, linear or branched, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n- adipate butyl, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl sebacate / di-n-butyl / dioctyl, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, maleate dicaprylyl, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate. Other non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from adducts of 1 to 5 units of propylene oxide on mono- or polyvalent Cs-22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decane diol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, for example PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG3 myristyl ether. Other non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from the products of addition of at least 6 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to C3-22 mono alkanols - or polyvalent such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if necessary, eg. butyl ether PPG-14, butyl ether PPG-9, PPG-10-butanediol and stearyl ether PPG-15. Other particularly preferred non-volatile non-silicone oils according to the invention are chosen from symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C6-C20 alcohols, for example. di-n-caprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or di- (2ethylhexyl) carbonate (Tegosoft DEC). In contrast, esters of carbonic acid with C1-C5 alcohols, e.g. glycerol carbonate or propylene carbonate, are not suitable compounds as a cosmetic oil. Other oils which may be preferred according to the invention are chosen from the dimer esters of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with linear, branched or cyclic monovalent C2-C18 alkanols or with alkanols in C2-C ₆ versatile linear or branched. Particularly preferably, the total weight of the dimer fatty acid esters is 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight, respectively based on the total composition, without taking account of the presence possible propellant. Other particularly preferred cosmetic oils according to the invention are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils. The preferred non-volatile silicone oils according to the invention are chosen from linear polyalkylsiloxanes having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C of at least 5 cSt at 2,000 cSt, in particular chosen from linear polydimethylsiloxanes having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C 5 cSt to 2000 cSt, preferably 10 to 350 cSt, particularly preferably 50-100 cSt, such as, for example. available respectively under the trademarks Dow Corning® 200 or Xiameter PMX from Dow Corning or Xiameter. Phenyltrimethicones having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C of 10 to 100 cSt, preferably 15-30 cSt, as well as cetyldimethicones, constitute other preferred non-volatile silicone oils. The preferred natural and synthetic hydrocarbons according to the invention are chosen from paraffin oils, isohexadecane, isoéicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, which are for example available under the brands Emery® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under brand Ethylflo® from Albemarle or Nexbase® 2004G from Nestlé, as well as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane.

The particularly preferred mixtures according to the invention are free of volatile silicones or alkanes (linear / branched).

The cosmetic agents according to the invention can also contain at least one perfume. By the term "perfumes" is meant within the meaning of the present invention substances having a molar mass ranging from 74 to 300 g / mol, which contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and give off an odor and / or a flavor, i.e. that they are able to stimulate the hair cell receptors of the olfactory system. Osmophoric groups are groups covalently linked to the molecular structure, in the form of hydroxy groups, formyl groups, oxo groups, alkoxycarbonyl groups, nitrile groups, nitro groups, azide groups, etc. In this context, the term “perfume” within the meaning of the present invention also includes perfumed oils, perfumes or components of perfumed oils liquid at 20 ° C. and at 1013 hPa.

Preferably, however, mixtures of different scents will be used which together produce a pleasant scent.

Particularly pleasant antiperspirant cosmetic agents according to the invention are obtained if the at least one perfume is present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 9% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 7% by weight, even more preferably 0.2 to 6% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 2% by weight, related to the total weight of the antiperspirant cosmetic agent. The perfumed oils can be in the form of a free oil and / or in an encapsulated form.

According to the invention, it is further preferred that the antiperspirant cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one preservative. The preferred preservatives according to the invention are formaldehyde liberators such as iodopropynyl butylcarbamates, parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and their salts, dibromodicyanobutane, 2-bromo-2nitropropane-1 , 3-diol, imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazoline-3one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates. Other preservatives that can be used in the context of the present invention are the substances listed in appendix 6 of the cosmetic regulation as well as cosmetic raw materials with preservative properties or raw materials which contribute to or reinforce the preservative action of the aforementioned preservatives . The preservatives are preferably present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant cosmetic agent.

According to the invention, the antiperspirant cosmetic agent may preferably also contain at least one antioxidant agent, preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic agent. The antioxidant agent can be chosen from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, BHT, substituted hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid esters, substituted benzotriazoles, dialkylthiodialkanoates, tocopherol and its esters (for example acetate), hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanones, paradol and their mixtures, in particular substituted hydroxyhydrocinnamic acid esters and mixtures thereof.

The proportion of water in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 40 to 97% by weight, particularly preferably from 50 to 95% by weight, most preferably from 60 to 93% by weight, respectively reported to the total composition.

Other preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain in total, at most 3% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0% by weight , respectively based on the weight of the total emulsion, in monovalent C1-C3 alkanols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. The storage and / or temperature stability of the emulsions according to the invention can be destabilized under certain conditions by the addition of ethanol or isopropanol, in particular in larger quantities, for example 5% by weight and more.

It may be advantageous to add to the preparations according to the invention at least one chelating agent in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the antiperspirant agent according to the invention. In the context of the present invention, the preferred chelating agents are chosen from the group comprising β-alaninediacetic acid, cyclodextrin, diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid, sodium, potassium, disodium calcium, ammonium and triethanolamine of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), etidronic acid, hydroxyethylethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (HEDTA) and their sodium salts, sodium salts of nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, phytic, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, methyl cyclodextrin, aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid pentasodium, ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid pentasodium, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid pentasodium, pentasodium triphosphate, potassium EDTMP, sodium EDTMP, sodium EDTMP, sodium, polydimethylglycinophenated sulfonate sodium nol, tetrahydroxyethylethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine, tetrapotassium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, ethylisenediamine trisodium disuccinate, N, N-bis (carboxymethyl tetrasodium) glut alanine-N, Tetrasodium Ndiacetate and desferrioxamine.

In order to further improve the antiperspirant and anti-odor effect of the compositions according to the invention, these contain, in a preferred embodiment, at least one deodorant active principle in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent. If ethanol is used in the agents according to the invention, in the context of the present invention, it is not considered to be a deodorant active principle, but as a component of the support.

Odor absorbers, ion exchangers with deodorizing action, germ-inhibiting agents, active prebiotic components as well as enzyme inhibitors or, in a particularly preferred manner, the combinations of the abovementioned active principles constitute examples of principles. deodorant active agents suitable according to the invention.

The silicates serve as odor absorbers, which can also simultaneously influence the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention if necessary. Among the suitable silicates according to the invention, mention will be made in particular of phyllosilicates and among these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, ilite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talc.

Other suitable odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, zinc ricinoleate, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as e.g. alumina, as well as chlorophyll.

Other preferred odor absorbers according to the invention are chosen from perlite.

By active ingredients that inhibit germs or antimicrobials is meant according to the invention the active ingredients that reduce the number of skin germs participating in the formation of odor or that inhibit their growth. These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci.

The active principles inhibiting germs or antimicrobials preferred according to the invention are in particular organohalogenated compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a certain number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include among others triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophene, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetylphosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, lauryl bromide methylbenzethonium chloride. In addition, it is possible to use phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpenic alcohols such as by ex. farnesol, chlorophyllin-copper complexes, α-monoalkylglycerol ether with a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C6-C22 alkyl radical, particularly a- (2ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available under the brand Sensiva® SC 50 (formerly Schülke & Mayr), the carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (for example glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics as well as plant extracts (e.g. green tea and components of linden flower oil).

Other preferred deodorant active principles are chosen from the components known as having a prebiotic effect which, according to the invention, are understood as the components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odorous germs of the cutaneous microflora, but not those desired, that is to say the odorless germs which belong to the healthy microflora of the skin. Here are explicitly mentioned the active principles such as the extracts of conifers, in particular of the group Pinaceae, and the plant extracts of the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular the extracts of Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp. , Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

Other preferred deodorant active ingredients are chosen from scent inhibiting oils and Deosafe® scented oils, which are marketed by Symrise, formerly Haarmann and Reimer.

Other preferred deodorant active principles are chosen from silver salts, in particular silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, silver lactate and silver sulphate, soluble complex salts of silver, colloidal silver and silver zeolites.

Enzyme inhibitors include substances that inhibit the enzymes responsible for breaking down sweat, in particular arylsulfatase, βglucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxigenase, e.g. the trialkyl ester of citric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.

The preferred antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the deodorant active principle or principles are chosen from arylsulfatase inhibitors, β-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, inhibitors of l esterase, lipase inhibitors and lipoxygenase inhibitors, α-monoalkylglycerol ethers having a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C6-C22 alkyl radical, in particular ether a- (2 -ethylhexyl) glycerol, phenoxyethanol, benzylheptanol, cocamidopropyl chloride PG-dimonium phosphates and butyloctanoic acid, polyglycerol-3-caprylates, scent oils that inhibit germs, scent oils Deosafe® (Deosafe® is one registered trademark of Symrise, formerly Haarmann & Reimer), prebiotic components, trialkyl esters of citric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, pri active ingredients reducing or inhibiting the growth of skin germs involved in the formation of odors from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, zinc compounds, especially zinc phenolsulfonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogenated compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine gluconate and benzalkonium halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate, lantibiotics, as well as mixtures of the above-mentioned substances.

Other preferred antiperspirant compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active principle is present in a total amount ranging from 0.0001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.27% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight and most preferably 0.4-1.0% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the active substance of the principle (s) deodorant active (s) in the total composition.

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain both at least one deodorant active principle and at least one antiperspirant active principle.

The preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention also contain at least one water-soluble polyvalent C2-C9 alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-50, preferably 3-20 oxide units. ethylene and mixtures thereof to further improve the stability of the compositions. Preferably, these components are chosen from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4butylene glycol , pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are chosen from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20, as well as mixtures thereof, PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or a mixture thereof is preferred, more preferably only propylene glycol. Preferably, these are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10 or from 1 to 5% by weight.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the antiperspirant cosmetic agents also contain at least one active principle with a cooling effect on the skin. The active ingredients with a cooling effect suitable for the skin according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, for example. menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl ethyl oxamate, menthyl pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxy propane diol, menthone glycerol acetal (9methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1,4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethylsuccinate, 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexanol and 5-methyl-2- (1methylethyl) cyclohexyl-N-ethyloxamate. The active ingredients with a cooling effect for the skin are menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol, menthyl pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid and 5-methyl2- (1-methylethyl) cyclohexyl-N-ethyloxamat, as well as mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, menthol glycolate and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol and isopulegol.

The cosmetic agents of the invention are particularly suitable for application by means of ball or "roll-on" type applicators and are therefore preferred in a container with a ball applicator or a "roll-on" type applicator. .

Finally, another object of the present invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for preventing and / or reducing body sweating, in which an antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the skin, in particular to the skin of armpits and remains there for at least 1 hour, preferably for at least 2 hours, preferably for at least 4 hours, in particular for at least 6 hours.

Regarding the process according to the invention, what has been explained with regard to the antiperspirant cosmetic agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples:

Using a branched unmodified homo-polyethyleneimine having a weight average molecular weight of 1300 g / mol and a ratio of primary: secondary: tertiary amino groups of 40:36:24, a 3% aqueous solution of the homo- polyethyleneimine in water was produced. The solution was adjusted to pH 3.5 with hydrochloric acid. The solution obtained had a clear appearance. Even after neutralization at a pH of around 7, the solution remains clear.

The antiperspirant effect was studied on the back of a group of participants. It showed a reduction in sweating of around 65%.

For comparison, a 10% by weight aqueous solution of aluminum hydrochloride was used. Comparable levels of reduction in perspiration were observed with this control solution.

Using steareth-2 as W / O emulsifier and steareth-21 as O / W emulsifier and PPG-15 stearyl ethers for the oil phase, oil-in-water emulsions were prepared without using hydrophilic thickeners or lipophilic. More specifically, the components and the quantity ranges indicated in the table below have been used. A viscosity in the range of about 300 to 6000 mPa s (20 ° C, Brookfield, spindle RV3 or RV4) has been found, i.e. a viscosity suitable for application with a "roll-on" type. The increase in viscosity is accompanied by the formation of liquid-crystalline phases. The excellent antiperspirant effect could be confirmed for the oil-in-water emulsions applied to the subjects' skin.

Antiperspirant HE emulsion for roll-on devices Quantities expressed in% by weight polyethyleneimine 0.5-5.0 Demineralized Water ad 100 Hydrochloric acid 20% Ad pH 2 to 7.5 1,2-propanediol 0-5.0 PPG-15 stearyl ether 1.0-5.0 Steareth - 2 1.0-5.0 Steareth - 21 1.0-5.0 Perfume 0.05 to 4.0 phenoxyethanol 0.1 - 1.0 antioxidant 0.01 -2.0 PH value = 2 - 7.5

Claims (10)

claims 1. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: at. at least one branched homo-polyethyleneimine having a molecular weight ranging from 300 to 10,000 g / mol in a total amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in which the polyethyleneimine has a proportion of amino groups with three radicals atom different from hydrogen ranging from 20 mol% to 35 mol%, based on the molar amount of all the amino groups in homo-polyethyleneimine, b. at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, vs. at least one non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and d. at least one oily component in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in which - the quantities indicated refer respectively to the total quantity of the oil-in-water emulsion, the oil-in-water emulsion has a pH value ranging from 2.5 to 7.5 and the polyethyleneimine is polycationic, - the oil-in-water emulsion contains at least one anion chosen from the group comprising chloride, phosphate and sulfate, the oil-in-water emulsion does not contain halides and / or hydroxyhalides of aluminum and / or zirconium, and - the oil-in-water emulsion has a viscosity ranging from 300 to 6000 mPa-s (20 ° C, Brookfield, RV 3 or RV 4 spindle). 2. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion contains from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably 2.0 to 5.0% by weight of homo-polyethyleneimine. 3. antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, in the oil-in-water emulsion, 10%, 30%, 50%, 95.0% by weight or more, more preferred 99.0% by weight to 100% by weight of the anions contained are chloride ions. 4. antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsion has a pH value determined at 22 ° C ranging from 2.5 to 7.0, preferably from 3.0 to 5.5, more preferably 3.3 to 4.5. 5. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the homo-polyethyleneimine has a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 3000 mol / g, preferably from 1000 to 2000 mol / g . 6. Cosmetic antiperspirant agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the weight total of the oil-in-water emulsion, and preferably chosen from nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value ranging from 1 to 6, which are chosen from linear saturated and unsaturated C12-C30 alkanols, etherified with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule, in which steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth having respectively 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred. 7. antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of the at least one oil-in-water emulsifier is from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, relative to the weight total of the oil-in-water emulsion, and preferably chosen from nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 8, preferably ranging from 12 to 18, which are chosen from saturated linear C12-C24 alkanols and unsaturated, etherified with 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule, in which the steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth having respectively 7 to 40 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred. 8. Antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight of steareth-2 as a non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifier and from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight of steareth-21 as an oil-in-water nonionic emulsifier. 9. antiperspirant cosmetic agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains 0.5% by weight or less, preferably does not contain an agent for forming inorganic polymer hydrogels and / or organic. 10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic method intended to prevent and / or reduce body odor and / or body sweating, in which a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the skin, in particular to the skin armpits, and remains on the skin for at least 1 hour, preferably for at least 2 hours, preferably for at least 4 hours, in particular for at least 6 hours.