FR2962328A1 - Treating body odor associated with human perspiration, preferably underarm odors, comprises applying leave-in composition comprising 2-alkoxy-4 alkylketonephenol-compound and essential oil in medium on human keratin materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic method for treating body odor associated with human perspiration, preferably underarm odors, comprises applying, on a human keratin materials, leave-in composition comprising at least one 2-alkoxy-4 alkylketonephenol-compound and at least one essential oil in a medium. An independent claim is included for the leave-in composition comprising, in a medium, (a) at least one 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketonephenol; (b) at least one essential oil; (c) at least one antiperspirant salt or complex and/or an additional deodorant active agent.

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment of body odors related to human perspiration, especially odors. axillary method which consists in applying to human keratin materials a non-rinsed composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketonephenol compound and at least one essential oil.

In the cosmetic field, it is well known to use topically deodorant products containing active substances antiperspirant type or bactericidal type to reduce or eliminate axillary odors generally unpleasant. The antiperspirant substances have the effect of limiting the flow of sweat. They generally consist of aluminum salts which, on the one hand, have a potential irritant for the skin and which, on the other hand, reduce the flow of sweat by modifying the cutaneous physiology, which is not satisfactory. The bactericidal substances inhibit the development of cutaneous flora responsible for axillary odors. Of the bactericidal products, the most commonly used is Triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether), which has the drawback of significantly modifying the ecology of the cutaneous flora, of being inhibited by certain compounds, such as nonionic surfactants, commonly used in the formulation of cosmetic compositions.

In order to achieve long-term effectiveness, new products with a deodorant action, that is, products capable of modifying, reducing and / or removing or preventing the deodorant action, are being sought. development of body odor (this definition is given in "Cosmetic Science and Technology Series" - 1988 / Volume 7 chap.10 - IIIc). One of the valences of axillary odor problems is the involvement of microorganisms, predominantly Corynebacterium xerosis. Unfortunately, most of the antimicrobial active ingredients used in cosmetic compositions have only short-term action. Thus one of the defects charged with this type of product is the lack of persistence.

It is known that essential oils have a deodorant action and in particular a bactericidal action on Corynebacterium xerosis, the main strain producing perspiration odors. But however, like many bactericidal assets their persistence is not fully satisfactory.

Applications are known in applications JP 2002158973A KR 2002043073 soaps based on a ginger extract such as gingiberen, gingerone, shogaol and aromatic compounds such as citral or camphene having deodorant properties. However, these compositions are generally rinsed with water and do not make it possible to obtain an efficacy against body odors that is sufficiently prolonged in time. We have surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that by using in a non-rinsed composition the combination of at least one essential oil and a 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketonephenol compound, an activity could be obtained. deodorant effective and significantly more persistent over time.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic process for treating human body odors, in particular axillary odors consisting in applying to human keratin materials a non-rinsed composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable support at least one 2-alkoxy-4- compound. alkylcetonephenol and at least one essential oil

Other objects of the invention will become apparent in the following description.

By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, twitching, redness), which may divert the consumer from using this composition.

By "non-rinsed" is meant any composition applied directly to the keratin materials which does not need to be subsequently removed by rinsing with water, with an aqueous solution comprising surfactants or any other cleaning base of the keratin materials.

By "human keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips, mucous membranes.

2-ALCOXY-4-ALKYLCETONE-PHENOLS COMPOUNDS

Preferably, the 2-alkoxy-4-alkyl ketone-phenol compounds according to the invention are chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): (I) in which - R 1 represents a linear (saturated) alkyl radical in C4 and preferably methyl or ethyl; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear (saturated) alkyl radical C 1 -C 4 and preferably methyl or ethyl; - R3 represents a linear (saturated) alkyl radical C1-C12, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group; or a C 2 -C 12 linear (unsaturated C = C) alkenyl radical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. Preferably, the compounds have the formula (I), wherein: R2 is selected from H and CH3; still more preferably R2 is hydrogen and / or - R3 is (i) a C1-C10 alkyl radical; (ii) a C2-C10 alkenyl radical, especially a -CH = CH-R4 radical with R4 representing a linear C1-C alkyl radical; or else (iii) a hydroxyalkyl radical of structure -CH 2 -CH (OH) -R 5 with R 5 representing a linear C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical, preferably a C 4 -C 10 alkyl radical

The compounds of formula (I) which are particularly preferred are the following: (a) (b) (c) (d) io 4 (e) (f) (h) (g) (i) (k) (I) ( embedded image According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compound 4- (3-methoxy-4-hydroxy) -butane-one, also called Gingerone, will be used. (INCI name: 5 ZINGERONE) or Vanillylacetone.

The compounds of formula (I) can be prepared easily by those skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge. The following bibliographic references may notably be cited: J. Asian Natural Products Research, 2006, 8 (8), 683-688; Helv. Chimica Acta, 2006, 89 (3), 483-495; Chem. Pharm. Bull., 2006, 54 (3), 377-379; and Bioorg. Med. Chem. Lett., 2004, 14 (5), 1287-1289.

The compounds can thus be prepared from vanillin or ethyl vanillin (commercial products) in the following manner: (q) 1) NaOH / H2O 0 2) HCl R3 + HO Pd / C H2 (-10 bar) (solvent) OR1 R3 HO R2 OR1 R1 = methyl, CAS: 121-33-5 ethyl, CAS: 121-32-4 O R3 HO 15 OR1 The compound (s) 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketone-phenols according to the invention are present in the composition preferably at concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and even more particularly from 1 to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition.

ESSENTIAL OILS

According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a fragrant product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material water vapor, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. Modes of obtaining essential oils

The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.

15 Training with water vapor

Steam training corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is not very miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in the liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vessel where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the removal of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydrolate "or" floral distilled water ".

Dry distillation

The essential oil is obtained by distillation of wood, bark or roots without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production.

This method of production only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp.) By mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are dilacerated and the contents of the secretory sacs that have been ruptured are recovered by a physical process. The conventional method is to exert under abrasive action an abrasive action on the entire surface of the fruit. After removal of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial plants actually allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juice and essential oil. 45 Physico-chemical characters.

Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.

They are composed of molecules with a carbon skeleton, the number of carbon atoms being generally between 5 and 22.

The main chemical classes of compounds present in essential oils are: - Terpenic and sesquiterpenic carbides, for example: turpentine essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene, juniper essential oil: alpha-pinene, camphene, cadinene lemon essential oil: limonene. Alcohols such as, for example: coriander essential oil: linalool essential oil of rosewood: linalool essential oil of rose: geraniol. mixtures of esters and alcohols, for example: lavender essential oil: linalool and linalyl acetate, mint essential oil: menthol and menthyl acetate.

Aldehydes such as, for example: cinnamon essential oil: cinnamic aldehyde citronella essential oil: citral and citrannal eucalyptus citrodora essential oil: citronellal.

30 - ketones as for example: caraway essential oil: carvone essential oil of sage: thuyone essential oil of thuya: thuyone

35 - phenols essential oil of thyme: thymol essential oil of savory: carvacrol essential oil of oregano: thymol and carvacrol 40 essential oil of clove: eugenol.

- ethers as for example: essential oil of anise green, star anise: anethol essential oil of fennel: anethol 45 eucalyptus essential oil globulus: eucalyptol essential oil of cajeput: eucalyptol oil essential of niaouli

peroxides, for example: essential oil of chenopodium: ascharidol 5 essential oil of garlic: allicin.

Essentially, the essential oils consist of a complex mixture of compounds belonging to these different chemical families. Vegetable raw materials

The vegetable raw materials used to produce the essential oils are generally plants or parts of plants which are in various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh form).

Among the essential oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from the plants belonging to the following botanical families:

15 Abietaceous or Pinaceae: conifers Amaryllidaceae Anacardiaceae Anonaceous: ylang Apiaceae (eg umbelliferae): dill, angelica, coriander, marrow 20, carrot, parsley Arachnieae Aristochiaceae Asteraceae: achilea, mugwort, chamomile, helichrysum Betulaceae 25 Brassicaceae Burseraceae: Caryophyllaceae incense Canellaceae Césalpiniaceae: Copaïfera (copahu) 30 Chenopodaceae Cistaceae: Rockrose Cyperaceae Dipérocarpacées Ericacées: Wintergreen 35 Euphorbiaceae Fabaceae Geraniaceae: Geranium Guttifères Hamamelidaceae 40 Hernandiaceae Hypericaceae: St. John's wort Iridaceae Juglandaceae Lamiaceae: thyme, oregano, shrimps, savory, basil, marjoram, mint , 45 patchouli, lavender, sage, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary Lauraceae: ravensara, laurel, rosewood, cinnamon, bedsea Liliaceae: garlic Magnoliaceae: magnolia Malvaceae 50 Meliaceae 10 Moraceous monimiates: hemp, hops n Myscristicaceae: Mycaceae Myrtaceae: eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle Oléacées Piperaceae: pepper Pittosporaceae Poaceae: lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver io Polygonaceae Renonculaceae Rosaceae: roses Rubiaceae Rutaceae: all citrus 15 Salicaceae Santalaceae: sandalwood Saxifragaceae Schisandraceae Styracaceae: benzoin 20 Thymelaceae: agarwood Valiaceraceae: valerian, nicotine Verbenaceae: lantana, verbena Violaceae 25 Zingiberaceae: galanga, turmeric, cardamom, ginger Zygophyllaceae

The preferred essential oils according to the invention chosen from the following essential oils 30 Basilic Tropical Bergamot Cajeput Roman Chamomile Cinnamon 35 Catnip Lemon Citrus Lemon Citronella Clove 40 Coriander Cypress Incense Black Spruce Eucalyptus Lemon 45 Eucalyptus globulus Eucalyptus radiata Organic Generium Geranium Bourbon Ginger bio 50 Hyssop officinale Laser siler Noble laurel Lavender Lavandin Lavandin grosso Lemongrass Scotch marjoram Red mandarin Lemon balm io Peppermint Niaouli Green oregano Grapefruit Pine douglas 15 Scots pine Rosemary to cineole Pink Sandalwood Santoline 20 White fir Giant fir Mountain savory Sage Tea tree Thyme to linalool Thyme Thymol Verveine Vetiver Ylang and their mixtures.

Among these essential oils, the following oils will be used in particular: Basil Tropical Cajeput Cinnamon 35 Catnip Lemon Cist Citronella Clove Coriander 40 Eucalyptus radiata Bourbon Geranium Laser siler Noble Laurel Lemongrass 45 Scots Marjoram Parsnip Niaouli Green Origan Rosemary to Cineole 12 30 Rose Rosemary with cineole Rose Savory of the mountains Sage officinale Tea tree Thyme with linalol Thyme with thymol Verbena io Vetiver and their mixtures.

The oil or the essential oils used according to the invention will be present in concentrations ranging preferably from 0.01% to 10% and more preferably from 0.05% to 2% relative to the total weight of the composition. containing them.

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions additionally comprise at least one antiperspirant salt or complex and / or at least one additional deodorant active agent. The invention also relates to a non-rinsed composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketonephenol compound as defined above; B) at least one essential oil as defined above; c) at least one salt or antiperspirant complex and / or an additional deodorant active.

ANTI-TRANSPIRING SALTS OR COMPLEXES According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one salt or antiperspirant complex.

By "sweat-treating agent" is meant any substance which, on its own, has the effect of diminishing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat, of masking human sweat ".

The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminum or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, chlorohydrex aluminum, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, chlorohydrexpropylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, and aluminum complex. dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes of zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

DEODORANT ASSETS

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.

Deodorant active means any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodecane; 2,5,10-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2 decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), glycerine derivatives such as, for example, Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM from Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol Caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY and DERMOSOFT GMC respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DG ™ from STRAETMANS) biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts. - chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise).

Among the deodorant active agents according to the invention, mention may also be made of zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate and zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate - sodium bicarbonate; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid - silver zeolites or without silver - alum.

The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC FORMS

The non-rinsed composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous gels, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions. They can also, by addition of a fatty or oily phase, be in the form of lotion-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in a phase aqueous (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (W / O / W or O / W) / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The non-rinsed compositions may in particular be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump bottle; packaged in a device provided with a perforated wall including a grid; packaged in a device provided with a ball-on applicator, packaged in the form of sticks in the form of loose or compacted powder, and in this respect they contain the ingredients generally used in this type of product. and well known to those skilled in the art.

According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be anhydrous.

The term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be solid, in particular in the form of a stick or a stick. "Solid composition" means that the measurement of the maximum force measured in texturometry when a probe is sinking in the sample of formula must be at least 0.25 Newton, in particular at least equal to at 0.30 Newton, especially at least 0.35 Newton, appreciated under precise measuring conditions as follows.

The formulas are poured hot in pots 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is done at room temperature. The hardness of the formulas is measured after 24 hours of waiting. The pots containing the 50 samples are characterized in texturometry using a texturometer such as the one marketed by Rhéo TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a stainless steel ball-type probe with a diameter of 5 mm is brought in contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm / s. The measurement system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons. The probe sinks 0.3 mm into the sample at a rate of 0.1 mm / s. The meter records the evolution of the force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values of the force detected during the penetration, on at least 3 measurements. i0 AQUEOUS PHASE

The non-rinsed compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use may comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are especially formulated in aqueous lotions or in water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion emulsions (triple oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion (such emulsions are known and described for example by C. FOX in "Cosmetics and Toiletries" - november 1986 - Vol 101 - pages 101-112).

The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and in general other solvents which are soluble or miscible with water. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol and glycerol, propane 1,3 diol will be used more particularly.

EMULSIFIERS a) Oil-in-water emulsifiers

Examples of emulsifiers that can be used in oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions include, for example, nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and their blends such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as described in Applications WO92 / 06778, WO95 / 13863 and WO98 / 47610, such as the commercial products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV (D.

(b) Water-in-oil emulsifiers

Among the emulsifiers that can be used in water-in-oil emulsions 50 or triple water-in-oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions or triple emulsions, mention may be made by way of example of alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to following formula (I): embedded image in which: RI denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably C12-C18 alkyl group; R2 denotes the group: - CnH2n - (- OC2H4-) X - (- OC3H6-) y - O-R3, io R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 12 atoms of carbon ; a is an integer from 1 to about 500; b is an integer from 1 to about 500; n is an integer from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5; X x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50 and preferably from 1 to 30; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 49 and preferably 0 to 29 provided that when y is different from zero the ratio x / y is greater than 1 and preferably varies from 2 to 11.

Among the preferred alkyldimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I), mention will be made more particularly of CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly of the CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETICONE AND DIMETHICONE mixture (INCI name) as the product. sold under the trade name ABIL EM90 by GOLDSCHMIDT or the mixture (POLYGLYCERYL-4-STEARATE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 (AND) DIMETHICONE (AND) HEXYL LAURATE) as the product sold under the trade name ABIL WE09 by the same company.

Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of dimethicone copolyols corresponding to the following formula (II) C CH 3

Si - CH3 1 CH3

in which R4 denotes the group: ## STR2 ## in which R4 denotes the group: ## STR2 ## in which R4 denotes the group: ## STR2 ## R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; c is an integer ranging from 1 to about 500 d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 500, m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5, s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50, and preferably from 1 to 30; t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 50 and preferably from 0 to 30; provided that the sum s + t is greater than or equal to 1.

Among these preferred dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (II), use will be made particularly of PEG-18IPPG-18 DIMETHICONE and more particularly the mixture CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG-18IPPG-18 DIMETHICONE (INCI name) such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from Shin Etsu.

According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (I) and at least one emulsifier of formula (II).

More particularly, a mixture of PEG-18IPPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE and even more particularly a mixture of (CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG-18IPPG-18 Dimethicone) and Cetyl PEG / PPG-1 will be used more particularly. 10/1 DIMETICONE and Dimethicone or (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate).

Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APG), sugar esters and mixtures thereof.

As nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, the fatty acid and polyol esters may be used in particular, the fatty acid having in particular a C 8 -C 24 alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol. and sorbitan.

Examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be mentioned include esters of isostearic acid and of polyols, esters of stearic acid and of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol, and or sorbitan.

As esters of stearic acid and of polyols, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI. Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company 45 ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the Unigema company. and their mixtures. The emulsifier may also be selected from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the following general formula (1):

R-O- (G) x (1)

in which R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G particularly denotes glucose, fructose or galactose.

The unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

As alkylpolyglycosides of this type, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), and in particular compounds of formula (I) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated C18 radical) or isostearyl radical. (C18 saturated radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, especially isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. This alkylpolyglucoside may be used in admixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 atoms. of carbon and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, and for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearylglucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleylglucoside, optionally in the form of of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in WO-A-92/06778. For example, the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC and the mixture octyldodecanol and octyldodecylxyloside sold under the name FLUDANOV 20X by the company SEPPIC may be used.

Mention may also be made of succinic-terminated polyolefins, such as ester-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, especially diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or CHEMCINNATE 2000 commercial product.

The total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably be in the composition according to the invention at contents of active material ranging from 1 to 8% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. composition.

FAT PHASE

The non-rinsed compositions according to the invention may contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the fatty phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid organic phase according to the invention generally consists generally of at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). Hg).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). ).

The oil may be chosen from all physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and / or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

As an example of a volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially the C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of origin oil (also known as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names 40 of Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis 45 DE10 2008 012 457. volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10- 6 m2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane - and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of linear alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group.

As an example of a non-volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils, wheat germ oils, olive oil and almond oil sweet, palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R2> e.g., Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate 0-12 C15 alcohol, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate 2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2- undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates; The acetates; - citrates; fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752; Silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

STRUCTURING AGENT

The non-rinsed compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may additionally contain at least one structuring agent of said fatty phase, which may preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, mineral or organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

It is understood that the amount of these compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

45 Wax (s)

The wax is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 ° C and especially 50 to 120 ° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. i0 The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at a heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, and then cooled to 100 ° C. at -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, coconut wax and the like. Carnauba, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, refined sunflower wax marketed as SUNFLOWER WAX by KOSTER KEUNEN, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, sunflower oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes 50. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

As the wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used. Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

As micro-waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, the 20 micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names of Micro Care 300® and 310® by the MICRO POWDERS company, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO 25 POWDERS, polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the commercial products PERFOMAL EN 400 POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES, PERFORMALENE 655 POLYETHYLENE or paraffin waxes such as wax INCI, MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX and SYNTHETIC WAX and sold under the trade name MICROLEASE by the company SOCHIBO. ; polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders. The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a wax content (s) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%. .

According to one particular form of the invention, in the context of the anhydrous solid compositions in the form of a stick, use will be made of polyethylene micro-waxes in the form of crystallites of form factor of at least 2 having a melting point of from 70 to 110 ° C and preferably 70 to 100 ° C, to reduce or eliminate the presence of layers in the solid composition, 45 These needle crystallites and in particular their dimensions can be visually characterized according to the following method.

The wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a hot stage. The blade and the wax are heated to a temperature generally at least 5 ° C higher than that of the melting point of the wax or wax mixture considered (e). At the end of the melting, the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are allowed to cool to solidify. The observation of the crystallites is carried out using a Leica DMLB100 type optical microscope, with a target selected according to the size of the objects to be viewed, and in polarized light. The dimensions of the crystallites are measured using an image analysis software such as those marketed by Microvision.

The crystallite polyethylene waxes according to the invention preferably have an average length of from 5 to 10 μm. By "average length" is meant the dimension given by the statistical size distribution at half of the population, called D50.

More particularly, a mixture of PERFOMALEN 400 POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE waxes from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES will be used.

Paste compounds

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23.degree. liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and plant compounds. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, silicone compounds which may or may not be polymeric, fluorinated compounds which may or may not be polymeric, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins, copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, and homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-050, 45 - esters, - mixtures thereof.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a linear or branched C 8 -C 50 polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxy acid ester aliphatic carboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, - the polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as Risocast DA-H products ®, and Risocast DA-L

the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as Plandool-G - their mixtures.

Among the pasty compounds of vegetable origin, a mixture of soybean sterols and oxyethylenated (50E) oxypropylene pentaneerythritol (5PO), sold under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents Mineral Gelling Agents As the mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 35 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS.

It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas 45 thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane 50 or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Organic gelling agents

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C®. and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type. ) such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co. or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as for example the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

As the lipophilic gelling agent, mention may also be made of polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one chain pendant fat and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02 / 47619, the contents of which are incorporated by reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the 50 names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680.

These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

SUSPENSION AGENTS

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. There may be mentioned for example the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and distearyldimium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by Elementis Specialties. The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

30 ORGANIC POWDER

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will contain, in addition, an organic powder.

As used herein, the term "organic powder" means any solid which is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.).

Organic powders which can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, polyamide particles and especially those sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; Methyl methacrylate / dimethacrylate 50 ethylene glycol copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethyleneacrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Piast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of about 12 μm and density 40 kg / m 3), 551 DE (particle size about 30 μm and density 65 io kg / m 3), 551 DE 50 (particle size about 40 μm), or the microspheres marketed under the US Pat. MICROPEARL F 80 ED designation by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, marketed under the name DRY-FLO by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the Lauroyllysine powder marketed under the name Amihope LL-11 by the Ajinomoto Company; The wax microdispersion particles, which preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm and in particular from 0.02 μm to 1 μm, and which consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products marketed under the name Aquacer by the company Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 25 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a blend of polyethylene waxes and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures. 30 ADDITIVES

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, perfumes, agents and the like. thickeners, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions. considered.

The thickeners, preferably nonionic, may be selected from guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, silicas such as Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or the Veegum Ultra, sold by the company POLYPLASTIC. The thickeners may also be cationic, for example POLYQUATERNIUM-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (And) s PPG-1-Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymer such as for example those of CTFA name Ethylacrylate / Dimethylamino Ethyl Methacrylate Cationic Emulsion Copolymer.

The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.

AEROSOLS

The compositions according to the invention may be further pressurized and packaged in an aerosol device consisting of: (A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above, (B) at least one propellant and a dispensing means of said aerosol composition.

Propellants generally used in this type of product and well known to those skilled in the art are, for example, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among these are the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane sold in particular under the trade name DYMEL 152 A by the company DUPONT. It is also possible to use as propellant carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.

The dispensing means, which forms part of the aerosol device, is generally constituted by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle through which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be glass, polymeric material or metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish. The following example serves to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 - Deodorant in the form of a roll-on

Xanthan gum 0.64% Zingerone 2% Apricot kernel oil 2% polyglycerol-10 ester and lauric acid 2% Lemongrass essential oil 2% Ethyl alcohol 38.5% Glycerine 2% Water qs 100

Claims (4)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process for treating body odors related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odors, characterized in that it consists in applying human keratin materials to a non-rinsed composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one compound 2-alkoxy-4-alkylketonephenol and at least one essential oil. 2. The process as claimed in claim 1, wherein the 2-alkoxy-4-alkyl ketone-phenol compound corresponds to the following formula (1): ## STR2 ## in which - R 1 represents a linear (saturated) C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical and preferably methyl or ethyl; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear (saturated) alkyl radical C1-C4 and preferably methyl or ethyl; R3 represents a C1-C12 linear (saturated) alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group; or a C 2 -C 12 linear (unsaturated C = C) alkenyl radical, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. 3. The process according to claim 2, wherein in formula (I): R2 is selected from H and CH3; still more preferably R2 is hydrogen and / or R3 is (i) C1-C10 alkyl; (ii) a C2-C10 alkenyl radical, especially a -CH = CH-R4 radical with R4 representing a linear C1-C alkyl radical; or else (iii) a hydroxyalkyl radical of structure -CH 2 -CH (OH) -R 5 with R 5 representing a linear C 1 -C 10, preferably C 4 -C 90, alkyl radical. 30 4. The process according to claim 3, wherein the compound of formula (I) is particularly selected from the following compounds: (a) 35 (b) (c) (d) (e) (f) 1a 34 (g) (i) ) (h) G) o (k) (I) (m) (n). A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the compound is o (3-methoxy-4-hydroxy) -butane one or gingerone. 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the essential oil is selected from 15 Basilic Tropical Bergamot Cajeput Roman Chamomile Cinnamon 20 Catnip lemon Citrus Lemon Citronella (o) (q) Clove Coriander Cypress Incense Spruce black Eucalyptus lemon Eucalyptus globulus Eucalyptus radiata Organic juniper to Geranium bourbon Organic ginger Hyssop officinale Laser siler Laurel noble 15 Lavender Lavandin grosso Lemongrass Marjoram sylvestre 20 Mandarin red Lemon balm Peppermint Niaouli Green oregano 25 Grapefruit Pine douglas Pine Scots rosemary to cineole Rose 30 White sandalwood Santoline White fir Giant fir Mountain savory 35 Officinal sage Tea tree Linalol thyme Thyme thymol Verbena 40 Vetiver Ylang and their mixtures. 7. Process according to claim 6, in which the essential oils are chosen from among Basilica Tropical 45 Cajeput Cinnamon Catnip lemon CitronellaClove Coriander Eucalyptus radiata Bourbon geranium 5 Laser siler Noble lemon Lemongrass Marjoram sylvester Lemon balm lo Niaouli Green oregano Rosemary with cineole Rose Rosemary to cineole 15 Rose Mountain savory Sage officinale Tea tree Thyme linalol 20 Thyme thymol Verbena Vetiver and their mixtures. 8. Non-rinsed composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one 2-alkoxy-4-alkyl ketone phenol compound as defined in the preceding claims. b) at least one essential oil as defined in the preceding claims; C) at least one salt or antiperspirant complex and / or an additional deodorant active. 9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the 2-alkoxy-4-alkyl-ketone-phenols compound (s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and still more particularly from 1 to 3% relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the oil or the essential oils are present in concentrations ranging preferably from 0.01% to 10% and more preferably from 0.05% to 2% relative to to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of aqueous gels, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, single or multiple emulsion, vesicular dispersion of ionic type and or nonionic, wax dispersion / aqueous phase. 12 Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that it is anhydrous. 5013. A composition according to any one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that it is packaged (i) in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump bottle; (ii) in a device provided with a perforated wall including a grid; (Iii) in a device equipped with a ball-on applicator, (iv) in the form of a stick (sticks), (v) in the form of a loose or compacted powder.