FR3114746A1 - STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYDATINE - Google Patents

Abstract

Stable Composition Comprising Polydatin The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) polydatin; (b) at least one caffeoyl quinic acid compound; (c) at least one vitamin B3 compound; and (d) water, wherein the amount of (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, and more preferably 1, 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable with respect, in particular, to light. Figure for abstract: none

Description

STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING POLYDATINE

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, which includes polydatin but is stable towards, in particular, light.

Related art

The formation of free radicals is widely considered to play an important role in the mechanisms of skin aging. Free radicals are highly reactive molecular species with unpaired electrons that can directly damage various cell membranes, lipids, proteins, RNA and DNA. The damaging effects of said free radicals, often present in the form of reactive oxygen species, are induced internally in tissue and cells during normal metabolism and externally through various oxidative stresses. UV exposure and environmental pollution can accelerate skin aging by producing free radicals in the skin. Antioxidants protect cells from oxidative stress damage by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting oxidative reactions. Topical application of antioxidants is widely used in skin care products to prevent skin aging. It has previously been shown in the field of cosmetics that polyphenols act synergistically with other antioxidants such as vitamin E and carotenoids.

Disclosure of Invention

Polydatin (also known as piceide) is an antioxidant, and can be used as a powerful whitening active ingredient. However, a composition including polydatin is hardly stable vis-à-vis, in particular, light.

An object of the present invention is to provide a composition which includes polydatin, but is stable with respect, in particular, to light.

The above object of the present invention can be achieved with a composition comprising:

(a) polydatin;

(b) at least one caffeoylquinic acid compound;

(c) at least one vitamin B3 compound; And

(d) water,

in which

the amount of (b) caffeoylquinic acid compound is 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, and more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, based on total weight of the composition.

(a)Polydatin can be derived from plants.

The amount of (a) polydatin in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound can be represented by the following formula (I):

(I)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ independently represent a hydrogen atom or the caffeoyl radical represented by the following formula (II):

(II)

provided that at least one of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (II).

The (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound may be chlorogenic acid.

The (b) compound caffeoyl quinic acid can be derived from plants.

The amount of the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (c) vitamin B3 compound can be represented by the following formula (III):

(III)

in which R denotes -CONH ₂ , -COOH, CH ₂ OH, -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH or -CO-NH-OH.

The (c) vitamin B3 compound may be niacinamide.

The amount of vitamin B3 compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and from more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) may be 0.1 to 1, preferably 0.2 to 0.5 , and more preferably from 0.3 to 0.4.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(c) vitamin B3 compound(s) may be 0.01 to 0.5, preferably 0.05 to 0.3, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.2.

The ratio by weight of the amount of the vitamin B3 compound(s)/the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) can be from 1 to 8, preferably from 1.5 to 4 , and more preferably from 2 to 3.

The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion, preferably an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion, and more preferably an O/W gel nano- or micro-emulsion.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes polydatin but is stable with respect, in particular, to light.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises

(a) polydatin;

(b) at least one caffeoylquinic acid compound;

(c) at least one vitamin B3 compound; And

(d) water,

in which

the amount of (b) caffeoylquinic acid compound is 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, and more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, based on total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention is stable against several factors, including cooling and light, in particular light such as visible light, UV rays and IR rays. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can have superior thermal stability and photostability, in particular superior photostability.

The expression "superior thermal stability" means here that, after cooling, for example, at 4° C., for a certain period such as 1 month, the composition according to the present invention is visually homogeneous and does not cause precipitation of polydatin which may be in the form of crystal particles.

The term "superior photostability" means herein that 50% or more, preferably 55% or more, and more preferably 60% or more polydatin before exposure to light may remain after exposure to light.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Polydatin]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) polydatin.

Polydatin, which can be described as 3,4′,5-trihydroxystilbene-3-β-mono-D glucoside, is a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids have strong natural antioxidant properties of quenching free radicals and limiting oxidative stress. These properties can be used for skin care or sun care products, including in compositions according to the present invention. When exposed to sunlight or other radiation, polydatin, which is active in a trans- conformation, photoisomerizes to cis-polydatin which has less biological activity.

The amount of (a) polydatin in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 wt% or more, preferably 0.05 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.1 wt% or more. plus, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a) polydatin in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight. of the composition, provided that the amount of (a) polydatin is not zero.

The amount of (a) polydatin in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Caffeoyl quinic acid compound]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one caffeoyl quinic acid compound. If two or more caffeoylquinic acid compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

The (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound herein means a compound which has a quinic acid structure with at least one caffeoyl radical or group.

The (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound can be represented by the following formula (I):

(I)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ independently represent a hydrogen atom or the caffeoyl radical represented by the following formula (II):

(II)

provided that at least one of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (II).

As examples of the compound caffeoyl quinic acid, mention may be made of 3-caffeoylquinic acid (chlorogenic acid), 4,5-di-caffeoylquinic acid, 3,5-di-caffeoylquinic acid, 1,3-di- caffeoylquinic acid, 3,4-di-caffeoylquinic acid, 3,4,5-tri-caffeoylquinic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is chlorogenic acid.

The amount of the caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5% by weight or more, and may preferably be 1.0% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is not zero.

The amount of caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1.0% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Vitamin B3 Compound]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one vitamin B3 compound. If two or more vitamin B3 compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

The vitamin B3 compound here means the compound in the group of vitamin B3 as well as their derivatives.

Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is here a compound represented by the following formula (III):

(III)

wherein R can be -CONH ₂ (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH ₂ OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (nicotinyl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

Vitamin B3 derivatives which may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH ₂ , reaction products with acids carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

Mention may also be made of the following derivatives: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N,N-diethylnicotinamide, N-picolylnicotinamide, N-allylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, quinolinic imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercapto nicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

Other derivatives of vitamin B3 which may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as the salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

The amount of vitamin B3 compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of vitamin B3 compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, and more preferably 5 wt%. or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the vitamin B3 compound (c) is not zero.

The amount of vitamin B3 compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and from more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(weight ratio)

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(b) caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) may be 0.1 or more, preferably 0.2 or more, and more preferably 0.3 or more.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(b) caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) may be 1 or less, preferably 0.5 or less, and more preferably 0 .4 or less.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(b) caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) may be 0.1 to 1, preferably 0.2 to 0.5, and more preferably from 0.3 to 0.4.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(c) vitamin B3 compound(s) may be 0.01 or more, preferably 0.05 or more, and more preferably 0.1 or more.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(c) vitamin B3 compound(s) may be 0.5 or less, preferably 0.3 or less, and more preferably 0.2 or less.

The weight ratio of the amount of (a) polydatin/(c) vitamin B3 compound(s) may be 0.01 to 0.5, preferably 0.05 to 0.3, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.2.

The ratio by weight of the amount of the vitamin B3 compound(s)/the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and more preferably 2 or more.

The ratio by weight of the amount of the vitamin B3 compound(s)/the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) may be 8 or less, preferably 4 or less, and more preferably 3 or less.

The ratio by weight of the amount of the vitamin B3 compound(s)/the caffeoyl quinic acid compound(s) can be from 1 to 8, preferably from 1.5 to 4 , and more preferably from 2 to 3.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

Further, the amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less. , based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (d) water is not zero.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight , based on the total weight of the composition.

[Solubilizer]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one solubilizer. If two or more solubilizers are used, they may be the same or different.

The solubilizer can solubilize (a) polydatin further in (d) water.

One or more solubilizers can be a hydrotrope, but the solubilizers need not be hydrotropes. Hydrotropes (or hydrotropic agents) are a diverse class of water-soluble compounds that are characterized by an amphiphilic molecular structure and an ability to dramatically increase the solubility of poorly water-soluble organic molecules.

Many hydrotropes feature an aromatic structure with an ionic moiety, while some of them are linear alkyl chains. Although hydrotropes bear a notable resemblance to surfactants and have the ability to reduce surface tension, their small hydrophobic units and relatively short alkyl chain distinguish them as a separate class of amphiphiles. Consequently, their hydrophobicity is not sufficient to create well-organized self-associated structures, such as micelles, even at high concentration.

Common hydrotropic molecules include: sodium 1,3-benzenedisulfonate, sodium benzoate, sodium 4-pyridinecarboxylate, sodium salicylate, sodium benzene sulfonate, caffeine, sodium p-toluene sulfonate, sodium butyl monoglycol sulfate, 4-acid aminobenzoic HCl, sodium cumenesulphonate, 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine, resorcinol, butylurea, pyrogallol, N-picolylacetamide 3.5, procaine HCl, proline HCl, pyridine, 3-picolylamine, sodium ibuprofen, sodium xylenesulfonate, ethyl carbamate , pyridoxal hydrochloride, sodium benzoate, 2-pyrrolidone, ethylurea, N,N-dimethylacetamide, N-methylacetamide, and isoniazid. Hydrotropes can be found in Lee J. et al., "Hydrotropic Solubilization of Paclitaxel: Analysis of Chemical Structures for Hydrotropic Property", Pharmaceutical Research, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2003; and Lee S. et al., "Hydrotropic Polymers: Synthesis and Characterization of Polymers Containing Picolylnicotinamide Moieties", Macromolecules, 36, 2248-2255, 2003. Preferable hydrotropes may include caffeine, sodium PCA, sodium salicylate, urea, and dihydroxyethyl urea.

The amount of the solubilizer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based to the total weight of the composition.

Further, the amount of the solubilizer in the composition according to the present invention may be 4% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 2% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of solubilizer is not zero.

The amount of the solubilizer in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Oil]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil can be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ to C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy C ₄ to C ₂₆ non-sugar can also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, it is possible to use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ to C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” signifies compounds based on hydrocarbon bearing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched C ₆ to C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or their mixtures such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate , as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name ^Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tetra pentaerythrithyl (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, there may be mentioned, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate/caprylate) of glyceryl, and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, or even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone ^Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10 ^{- 6} m ² /s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made especially of polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- ^Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 range or ^Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 range from Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm²/s; And

- Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C ₁ to C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals ₁₂ , and more preferably C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n + m + q is other than 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione ^® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil ^® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to R 10 are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the ^Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower alkanes C ₆ to C ₁₆ linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and the isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam ^® , and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like. ; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol can be of R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ to C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ to C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably alcohols in C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The expression "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable for the saturated fatty alcohol to be chosen from any linear or branched, saturated C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty alcohol. Among the C ₆ to C ₃₀ linear or branched, saturated fatty alcohols, the C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated fatty alcohols can preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ fatty alcohol can more preferably be used. Even more preferably branched C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (for example, cetearyl alcohol) can be used as well as behenyl alcohol, as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and their mixtures.

It is also preferable for the oil to be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen from ester oils with short hydrocarbon chain(s) (C ₁ to C ₁₂ ) (for example , isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (eg, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (eg, isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), oils of branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol type (C ₁₂ to C ₃₀ ) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

It is preferable that the oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1 % by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the oil is not zero.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Emulsifier]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one emulsifier. If two or more emulsifiers are used, they may be the same or different.

The emulsifiers can be surfactants. The surfactants can be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. It may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention to include at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant.

It may be preferable for the anionic surfactant to be chosen from surfactants of the amino acid type.

Non-limiting examples of amino acid surfactants include potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, undecylenoyl glutamate disodium, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, myristoyl glutamate sodium, olivoyl sodium glutamate m, palmitoyl glutamate sodium, stearoyl glutamate sodium, undecylenoyl glutamate sodium, cocoyl methyl β-alanine, lauroyl β-alanine, lauroyl methyl β-alanine, myristoyl β-alanine, lauroyl methyl β-alanine potassium, cocoyl alaninate sodium, cocoyl methyl β-alanine sodium and myristoyl methyl β-alanine sodium palmitoyl glycine, lauroyl glycine sodium, cocoyl glycine sodium, myristoyl glycine sodium, lauroyl glycine potassium, cocoyl glycine potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate potassium, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and their mixtures.

The amount of the amino acid type surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the amino acid type surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the amino acid surfactant is not zero.

The amount of the amino acid surfactant in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 0. 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention include at least one nonionic surfactant, more preferably at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and even more preferably a combination of first and second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. bold.

(Primary fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 12.0 or more, preferably 12.5 or more, and more preferably 13.0 or more. Only one type of first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be used, but two or more different types of first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be used in combination.

The first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can function as a surfactant, especially a nonionic surfactant.

The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has an HLB value of 12.0 to 17.0, preferably 12.5 to 16.0, and more preferably 13.5 to 15.0.

The term HLB (“hydrophilic-lipophilic balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.

If two or more first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by a weighted average of the HLB values of all the first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

The first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be chosen from mono, di, tri esters and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).

It is preferable that the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 3 or 4 glycerol units, and more preferably 4 glycerol units.

The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 12 carbon atoms or less, preferably 11 carbon atoms or less, and more preferably 10 carbon atoms or less. less. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms. more. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have 4 to 12, preferably 6 to 11, and more preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms.

The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.

The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 laurate (HLB: approximately 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 laurate (HLB: 15.2), PG10 myristate (HLB: 14.9), PG10 stearate (HLB: 14.1), PG10 isostearate (HLB: 13.7), PG10 oleate (HLB: 13.0), PG10 cocoate (HLB: 16), and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferred that the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) be selected from the group consisting of PG3 caprate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprylate (HLB : 14), PG4 laurate (HLB: about 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: 14), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be about 0.01% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not zero.

The amount of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 10.0 or less, preferably 9.5 or less, and more preferably 9.0 or less. Only one type of polyglyceryl second fatty acid ester can be used, but two or more different types of polyglyceryl second fatty acid ester can be used in combination.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, especially a nonionic surfactant.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 5.0 to 10.0, preferably 6.0 to 9.5, and more preferably 7.0 to 9.0.

If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by a weighted average of the HLB values of all the second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be chosen from mono, di, triesters and higher esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid(s).

It is preferable that the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester comprises 2 to 4 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, and more preferably 2 glycerol units.

The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 14 or more carbon atoms, preferably 16 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 or more carbon atoms. more. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may comprise 30 carbon atoms or less, preferably 24 carbon atoms or less, and more preferably 20 carbon atoms or less. less. The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety or the fatty acid moiety of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may have 14 to 30, preferably 16 to 24, and more preferably 18 to 20 carbon atoms.

The fatty acid for the fatty acid moiety of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be saturated or unsaturated, and can be selected from myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4) , PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: about 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), sesquioleate PG2 diisostearate (HLB: 5.3), PG3 distearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG5 hexastearate (HLB: 4.0), PG3 trioleate PG5 (HLB: 7.0), PG10 pentaoleate (HLB: 6.4), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: approximately 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5 ), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate (HLB: 10), PG4 stearate (HLB: 9), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), distearate PG6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG10 distearate (HLB: approx. 9), PG10 tristearate (HLB: 8), PG10 diisostearate (HLB: 10), PG10 triisostearate (HLB: 8), PG10 tricocoate (HLB: : 9), and their mixtures.

It may be preferred that the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester be selected from the group consisting of PG2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG2 distearate (HLB: 4), PG2 isostearate (HLB: 8), diisostearate PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3.2), PG2 triisostearate (HLB: 3), PG2 sesquiisostearate (HLB: approx. 4), PG2 oleate (HLB: 8), PG2 sesquioleate (HLB: 5.3), distearate PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 diisostearate (HLB: 5), PG3 dicocoate (HLB: 7), PG2 sesquicaprylate (HLB: about 8), PG2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG2 myristate (HLB: 10), PG2 isopalmitate (HLB: 9), PG4 oleate (HLB: 10), PG4 stearate (HLB: 9), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not zero.

The amount of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Weight ratio for polyglyceryl fatty acid esters)

According to the present invention, the weight ratio (the total amounts of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s))/ the amount of the oil(s) may be 4.0 or less, preferably 3.0 or less, and more preferably 2.0 or less.

Typically, the weight ratio of the amount(s) of fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s)/oil(s) is much higher, such as 6.0.

Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention may reduce or limit the total amounts of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

Since the present invention can reduce the total amounts of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, the composition according to the present invention may not impart any stickiness or may impart more reduced stickiness to the touch.

It may be preferred that the weight ratio (the total amounts of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s))/ the amount of the oil(s) is greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 1.0, and more preferably greater than 1.5.

Further, according to the present invention, the weight ratio of the amount of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s)/the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) can be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and more preferably 2 or more; may be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, and more preferably 3 or less; and may be 1 to 5, preferably 1.5 to 4, and more preferably 2 to 3.

(average HLB of polyglyceryl fatty acid esters)

The average HLB value of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) can be calculated as a weighted average of all first and second fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

The average HLB of the first fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) and of the second fatty acid polyglyceryl ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 11, 0 or more, preferably 11.5 or more, and more preferably 12.0 or more.

The average HLB of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 14, 0 or less, preferably 13.5 or less, and more preferably 13.0 or less.

Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the average HLB of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 11.0 to 14.0, preferably from 11.5 to 13.5, and more preferably from 12.0 to 13.0.

[Polyol]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol can be used, but two or more different types of polyol can be used in combination.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reduction of one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more several hydroxy groups have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C ₂ to C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C ₂ to C ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.

The amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less. , based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of polyol is not zero.

Thus, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, such as 0.1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Other ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25° C.), such as, for example, linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, and hexanol.

The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more. plus, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less. , based on the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, additional antioxidants, coloring agents, chelating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film formers, preservatives, co-preservatives, and mixtures thereof, except for the ingredients as explained above.

The composition according to the present invention may further include baicalin. If the composition according to the present invention includes baicalin, it may be preferable that the amount of baicalin be limited to 0.5% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may not include any baicalin.

In one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be devoid of any UV filter, since it is stable with respect to light. The expression "free of" means here that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited quantity of at least one UV screening agent. However, it is preferable that the amount of the UV filter is limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0. 01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be most preferable for the composition according to the present invention not to comprise any UV screening agent.

In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention may be devoid of a nonionic surfactant based on polyoxyethylene. The term "free of" means here that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited amount of a nonionic surfactant based on polyoxyethylene. However, it is preferable that the amount of the polyoxyethylene-based nonionic surfactant be limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably preferably less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be more preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any nonionic surfactant based on polyoxyethylene.

(Preparation)

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and an optional ingredient(s) , if necessary, as explained above.

(a)Polydatin can be derived from plants. Accordingly, as (a) polydatin, for example, a plant extract including (a) polydatin can be used. For example, as (a) polydatin, Polygonium Cuspidatum Root Extract marketed by Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients can be used.

The (b) compound caffeoyl quinic acid can be derived from plants. Accordingly, as (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound, for example, a plant extract including (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound can be used. For example, as (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound, Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% marketed by Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients can be used.

Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing, for example, (a) polydatin and/or a first plant extract including (a) polydatin and (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound and/or a second plant extract including the compound (b) caffeoyl quinic acid, as well as ingredients (c) and (d) above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the essential and optional ingredients above to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared without a large amount of energy as required by a homogenizer. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared using a small amount of energy such as moderate agitation of the ingredients of the composition. Consequently, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally friendly with regard to its preparation approach.

[Form]

The composition according to the present invention is not limited. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an aqueous solution.

If the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil, it is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be in the form of an O/W emulsion which comprises oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed oily phases can be oil droplets in the aqueous phase. In this case, it is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to comprise at least one emulsifier as explained above.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of oily phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprises an external aqueous phase, and therefore if the composition according to the present invention has the O/W architecture or structure, it can confer an pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

The composition according to the present invention can be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion.

"Micro-emulsion" can be defined in two ways, namely, in a broad sense and in a limited sense. That is to say, we have a first case ("micro-emulsion in the limited sense") in which micro-emulsion refers to a single thermodynamically stable isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system comprising three ingredients of an oil component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the second case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense") in which among typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the micro-emulsion additionally includes such emulsions exhibiting transparent or translucent appearances due to their smaller particle sizes (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp. 48-53). "Micro-emulsion" as used herein refers to a "micro-emulsion in the limited sense", i.e., a single thermodynamically stable isotropic liquid phase.

Micro-emulsion refers either to a state of an O/W type micro-emulsion (oil in water) in which an oil is solubilized by micelles, a W/O type micro-emulsion (water in oil) in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles, or a bicontinuous micro-emulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is made infinite so that the aqueous phase and the oily phase have a structure keep on going.

The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase with a particle size of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, measured by laser particle sizing.

"Nano-emulsion" herein means an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase of size less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a crown of (b) and (c) nonionic surfactants which may optionally form a liquid crystal phase. lamellar type, at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nano-emulsions emanates from the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size being obtained thanks to the use of mechanical energy.

Nano-emulsions can be distinguished from micro-emulsions by their structure. Specifically, micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, of micelles which are formed by emulsifiers and swollen with oil. In addition, micro-emulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to be prepared.

The nano-emulsion may comprise a dispersed phase with a particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, measured by laser granulometry.

It is even more preferable that the particle size of the (a) oil is 35 nm or less, preferably 30 nm or less, and more preferably 25 nm or less, if the composition according to the present invention is under the form of an O/W emulsion. Particle size can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method. Particle size measurement can be performed, for example, by the Particle Size Analyzer ELSZ-2000 series, marketed by Otsuka Electronics Co., Ltd.

The particle size may be a volume average particle diameter or a number average particle diameter, preferably a volume average particle diameter.

The composition according to the present invention can be transparent.

Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity. For example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by the Hach company) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp which can emit visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank can be determined with distilled water.

The composition according to the present invention has a turbidity of 150 NTU or less, preferably 130 NTU or less and more preferably 110 NTU or less.

It may be more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W nano- or micro-emulsion.

It may be even more preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an O/W gel nano- or micro-emulsion. For example, the aqueous phase of the O/W gel nano- or micro-emulsion can include at least one thickener such as xanthan gum.

[Process and Use]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a lotion, cream, serum, and the like.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratinous substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention such as in a cosmetic product such as skincare products. The skin care product can be a lotion, cream, serum, and the like.

In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use of:

(b) at least one caffeoyl quinic acid compound; And

(c) at least one vitamin B3 compound,

for stabilization, in particular against light,

(a) polydatin

in a composition comprising (d) water.

Another aspect of the present invention may also relate to a use of:

(b) at least one caffeoylquinic acid compound; And

(c) at least one vitamin B3 compound,

as a stabilizer, in particular with respect to light,

(a) polydatin

in a composition comprising (d) water.

The above explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (d), as well as the optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those for the uses and processes according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and the forms of the composition according to the present invention can also apply to those of the composition cited in the uses and processes above.

Examples

The present invention will be described in more detail using the examples which, however, should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5]

The following compositions were prepared in the form of a microemulsion according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 shown in Table 1, by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" of active raw materials.

Ingredients Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Ex.Comp. 1 Ex.Comp. 2 Ex.Comp. 3 Ex.Comp. 4 Ex.Comp. 5 Propylene glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Pentylene Glycol 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Glycerin 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 8.8 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Arginine 1.205 1.205 1.205 1.205 1.205 1.205 1.205 1.205 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Caramel 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium lauroyl glutamate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Citric acid 0.165 0.165 0.165 0.165 0.165 0.165 0.165 0.165 Caffeine 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Niacinamide 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 - Baicalin - - - - 1.0 1.5 - - Chlorogenic acid 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.25 - - - - Polydatin 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Magnesium gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Isopropyl myristate 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 Glycerin 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Scent 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 xanthan gum 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ethanol 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Thermal stability Good Good Good Good Bad Bad Good Good Photostability 65% 63% 53% 30 % n/a n/a 36% 9%

[Ratings]

(Thermal stability)

A transparent glass bottle was charged with each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5, and the glass bottle was stored at the temperature of 4°C for 1 month. 1 month later, the appearance of the glass bottle was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Good: no crystal particles were observed

Bad: A crystal particle was observed

The results are shown in the "Thermal Stability" row of Table 1.

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 as well as Comparative Examples 1, 4 and 5 were stable for longer even at cold temperature, so that no crystal particles were formed.

The compositions according to Comparative Examples 2 and 3 were unstable, such that a crystal particle formed under cold temperature. Thus, it has been found that the use of baicalin in an amount of 1.0% by weight or more is not preferable for preparing a thermally stable composition.

(Photostability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1, 4 and 5 was spread on two glass plates at an amount of 2 mg/cm². One of the two glass plates was placed under a xenon light, while the other was placed under no light. They were left for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25°C. Then, the two glass plates were immersed in 25 g of methanol and stirred with a stirring rod for 30 minutes to extract the polydatin. The methanol solution was measured by HPLC (reverse phase) to quantify polydatin. By the equation below, we calculated the photostability of polydatin:

Photostability (%) = (polydatin(%) with Xe light)/(polydatin(%) without Xe light)

The results are shown in the row "Photostability" of Table 1. "ND" in Table 1 means Not available.

The compositions according to examples 1 to 3 were more stable towards light such that 50% of the polydatin remained even after exposure to light.

The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1, 4 and 5 were less stable to light such that their photostability was less than 50%.

Claims (10)

Composition, comprising:
(a) polydatin;
(b) at least one caffeoyl quinic acid compound;
(c) at least one vitamin B3 compound; And
(d) water,
in which
the amount of (b) caffeoylquinic acid compound is 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 1.0 wt% or more, and more preferably 1.5 wt% or more, based on total weight of the composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) polydatin is derived from plants. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the amount of (a) polydatin in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is represented by the following formula (I):
(I)
in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ independently represent a hydrogen atom or the caffeoyl radical represented by the following formula (II):
(II)
provided that at least one of R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ represents the caffeoyl radical of formula (II). A composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is chlorogenic acid. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) caffeoyl quinic acid compound is derived from plants. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the quantity of the caffeoylquinic acid compound(s) in the composition ranges from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1, 0% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1.5% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the (c) vitamin B3 compound is represented by the following formula (III):
(III)
in which R denotes -CONH ₂ , -COOH, CH ₂ OH, -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH or -CO-NH-OH. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the quantity of the vitamin B3 compound(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.