FR3131849A1 - Composition for conditioning keratinous fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

C omposition for conditioning keratinous fibers The present invention relates to a transparent composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, comprising: a) a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil, and b) one or more polar phases , comprising deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for keratinous fiber conditioning, wherein the deep eutectic solvent includes a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Composition for conditioning keratinous fibers

The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, for example hair.

context of art

Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, bad weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming. and/or straightening.

There are many products including lipophilic active ingredients available for hair conditioning. For example, there are many hair oil products that include lipophilic active ingredients. In order to meet the needs of different consumers, cosmetic companies are eager to diversify hair oil product categories. When developing hair oils, it is difficult to include hydrophilic active ingredients for hair conditioning, let alone a high amount of hydrophilic active ingredients. Thus, this relatively small amount cannot satisfy the desirable benefits for keratinous fibers.

Furthermore, it is highly desirable to provide the benefit of hair conditioning using pleasing-looking products, e.g., transparent-looking products, and it is also desirable that the hair conditioning products be stable in the time.

Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for conditioning keratinous fibers, particularly human keratinous fibers, e.g. hair, which include a relatively higher amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning hair and hair. improved sensory performance, and which have a transparent appearance and are stable over time, thus providing long-term biological benefits to keratinous fibers.

In order to increase hydrophilic active ingredients in keratinous fiber conditioning products and simultaneously maintain the transparent appearance, we incorporate Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) into conditioning products, e.g. hair oils, to deliver the said ingredients hydrophilic active substances, in which the components constituting the deep eutectic solvents, in themselves, are active substances, and the deep eutectic solvent may additionally carry other active substances, for example hydrophilic plant extracts, hydrophilic tinctures, hydrophilic preservatives , etc.

According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a transparent composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising:

a) a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; And

b) one or more polar phases, comprising deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers. As mentioned above, the term "deep eutectic solvents for carrying an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers" means that deep eutectic solvents, in themselves, are active substances, and can further carry other active substances, for example hydrophilic plant extracts, hydrophilic tinctures, hydrophilic preservatives, etc.

Preferably, the polar phases comprise less than approximately 10% by weight of water, and in particular less than approximately 6% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents. More preferably, the polar phases do not comprise substantially no water, and this means that the polar phases comprise a minute quantity of water, that is to say that water is understood as an impurity, if it is present.

The transparent composition comprising the effective amount of the hydrophilic active ingredient offers consumers active ingredients to nourish keratinous fibers and enhanced sensory experiences.

For the deep eutectic solvent according to the present invention, it includes a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor, and both are physiologically beneficial actives, and are, in themselves, the above hydrophilic active ingredients.

According to the present invention, the transparent composition may or may not comprise a surfactant. In one aspect, the transparent composition does not include a surfactant. In another aspect, the transparent composition comprises a combination of surfactants comprising at least one nonionic surfactant, and optionally at least one ionic surfactant, the ionic surfactant preferably being chosen from anionic surfactants.

By means of the combination of surfactants, reverse micelles are formed in the composition, so that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time. In the reverse micelle system, DES, instead of water, serves as the core inside. In addition, the combination of surfactants makes it possible to obtain a relatively higher quantity of hydrophilic active ingredients. Additionally, because DESs are, in themselves, hydrophilic active ingredients, the composition of the present invention often contains a greater amount of active than compositions comprising the reverse micelle system containing water cores.

Regarding the combination of surfactants, in order to comply with the safety standard and not to harm the health of users, the combination of surfactants is present in a relatively small quantity and comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant. In one embodiment, the amount of the at least one ionic surfactant is not greater than approximately 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surprisingly, the inventor discovers that reverse micelles can be formed and maintained in the composition of the present invention even at a very small amount of ionic surfactant.

Theoretically, all oils which are suitable for the treatment of keratinous fibers are applicable to the composition of the present invention. In one embodiment, the at least one oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, triglycerides, ether oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to a second aspect, the present invention provides hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, comprising, substantially consisting of or consisting of the above transparent composition, in the form of biphasic oils or homogeneous oils. For homogeneous oils, the above reverse micelles comprising the specific combination of surfactants are formed.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the detailed description and examples which follow.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

There represents the multimodal size distribution of sample 1, corresponding to inventive example 2, from Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment.

There represents the multimodal size distribution of sample 2, corresponding to inventive example 3, from Brookhaven dynamic light scattering (DLS) equipment.

Each measurement from Brookhaven's DLS analyzer determines the average diameter (effective diameter) and distribution width (polydispersity) of samples, with DLS measuring the correlation function of intensity fluctuations, which can be mathematically converted to a distribution of intensity size, and the diagram describes the multimodal intensity size distribution of the sample when a numerical algorithm is used.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, unless otherwise noted, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to..." .

As used herein, the term “including” shall be construed to include all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features.

As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than those features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in the embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of “an” and “an” does not limit the meaning to any single particular, unless such limitation is specifically indicated.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein applies.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values expressing the quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise noted, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified to achieve the desired performance as required.

As used herein, the term "keratinous fibers" includes animal keratinous fibers and human keratinous fibers such as hair.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

As used herein, the term "deep eutectic solvent" means that it is present in a liquid state at room temperature. Compared with ionic liquids, the preparation of deep eutectic solvents is simpler, faster, cheaper and less toxic, and is called "green solvent". The deep eutectic solvent is mainly composed of a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor to form a binary and ternary system of deep eutectic solvents. The most important physical property of the deep eutectic solvent is the decrease in the melting point of the solvent. As a new type of green solvent that can replace ionic liquids, it has a wide usage range and can be used for the separation of natural organic components, or used as a reaction solvent, etc.

As used herein, the term "reverse micelles" or "inverted micelles" has the following definition: surfactants are dissolved in nonpolar organic solvents; when their concentration exceeds the critical micelle concentration (CMC), micelles are formed in the organic solvent, which are called reverse micelles, or reverse micelles. In reverse micelles, the nonpolar groups of the surfactant are on the outside in contact with the nonpolar organic solvents, while the polar groups are arranged on the inside to form a polar core. This polar core has the ability to dissolve polar substances. In the case where the polar core contains water, it forms a “water pool” or a “water core”. The reverse micelle is a nanoscale aggregate, which is a transparent and thermodynamically stable W/O system.

As used herein, the term "lipophilic" means that a substance or material can be dissolved or dispersed in an oil phase at 25ºC to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase.

As used herein, the term "effective amount" means an amount of the hydrophilic active ingredient included in the polar phases of the composition, said amount being sufficient to effectively condition the keratinous fibers. According to the present invention, the effective amount may be about 0.01 wt% or even more, for example about 0.05 wt%, about 0.1 wt%, about 0.15 wt%, about 0.2% by weight, about 0.25% by weight, about 0.30% by weight, about 0.35% by weight, about 0.40% by weight, about 0.45% by weight, about 0, 5% by weight, approximately 0.6% by weight, approximately 0.7% by weight, approximately 0.8% by weight, approximately 1.0% by weight, approximately 1.5% by weight, approximately 2.0% by weight, about 2.5% by weight, about 3.0% by weight, about 4.0% by weight, about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

According to the first aspect of the present invention, a transparent composition is provided, and the composition comprises a continuous oil phase comprising at least one oil.

Here, “oil” means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. This oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.

The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture of these.

The oil can be an oil of plant or animal origin or a synthetic oil.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, canola oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of unsweetened C ₄ alcohols. -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term “sugar” designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as , in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate ^® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononanoate isononyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tetra(2 pentaerythrithyl -ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate and tri(caprate/caprylate /linolenate) of glyceryl.

Ether hydrocarbon oil, also known as ether oil, can be volatile or non-volatile and is preferably non-volatile.

An oil based on ether hydrocarbons is an oil of formula R ₁ OR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ independently denote a C ₄ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, preferably a C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, and preferably a linear, branched or cyclic C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group. It may be preferable that R ₁ and R ₂ are identical.

Linear alkyl groups which may be mentioned include butyl group, pentyl group, hexyl group, heptyl group, octyl group, nonyl group, decyl group, undecyl group, dodecyl group, tridecyl group, tetradecyl group, pentadecyl group, hexadecyl group, heptadecyl group, octadecyl group, nonadecyl group, eicosyl group, behenyl group, docosyl group, tricosyl group and tetracosyl group.

Branched alkyl groups which may be mentioned include 1-methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, t-butyl group, 1,1-dimethylpropyl group, 3-methylhexyl group, 5-methylhexyl group, ethylhexyl group , a 2-ethylhexyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 1-ethylhexyl group, a 1-butylpentyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group , a 2-heptylundecyl group, a 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3-dimethylbutyl group, a 1-(1-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl group, a group 3 ,5,5-trimethylhexyl, a 1-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyl group and a 2-(1,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group .

The cyclic alkyl groups which may be mentioned include a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.

Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures of these.

Preferably, it is chosen from dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Dicapryl ether is particularly suitable for use.

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone ^® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. As an example, we can cite decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

- Silbione ^® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil ^® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil ^® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 whose viscosity is 60,000 mm ² /s;

- Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione ^® oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil ^® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from the PK series from Bayer, such as the PK20 product;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus cite the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet ^® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam ^® , and squalane.

As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

As examples, the oil is chosen from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and, better still, from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, a hydrocarbon ether oil having a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl group, such as dicapryl ether, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, such as dimethicones, dimethiconols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from isododecane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dimethicones, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from about 10% by weight to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 25% by weight to about 97% by weight, or from about 50% by weight to approximately 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polar phase

The composition of the present invention comprises one or more polar phases of deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers.

Preferably, the polar phases comprise less than approximately 10% by weight of water, and in particular less than approximately 6% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents. More preferably, the polar phases comprise substantially no water, or even water is understood as an impurity, if present. The term “comprises substantially no water” means that the polar phases comprise 5% by weight or less of water, relative to the weight of the deep eutectic solvents.

In addition, the polar phases of the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more compounds miscible with water or at least partially miscible with water, for example lower C ₂ -C ₈ polyols, or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The term “polyol” should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols which may be mentioned include glycols, for example butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The compounds miscible with water or at least partially miscible with water, if present, can represent from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 40% by weight, preferably approximately 1% by weight. at about 30% by weight, or from about 5% by weight to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Deep Eutectic Solvent (DES)

The deep eutectic solvent according to the present invention includes a hydrogen bond donor (HBD) and a hydrogen bond acceptor (HBA), wherein the hydrogen bond donor and the hydrogen bond acceptor are both physiologically beneficial actives, and are, in themselves, the hydrophilic active ingredients included in the composition of the present invention.

In particular, the term "hydrophilic" is interchangeable with the term "water soluble", and the term "hydrophilic" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25° C, at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

More particularly, the hydrogen bond donors included in the composition of the present invention are acids, alcohols, amines or carbohydrates, and are preferably organic acids, and are in particular chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid. , nicotinic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, adipic acid, galacturonic acid, and gluconic acid. Preferably, the hydrogen bond donors are chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and citric acid. In particular, the hydrogen bond donors are chosen from lactic acid.

The hydrogen bond acceptors are selected from quaternary salts, including quaternary ammonium salts and quaternary phosphonium salts, for example betaine and choline chloride; polyols derived from sugars, for example trehalose, xylitol, glucose and panthenol; and certain amino acids, for example alanine, glycine, histidine and proline. Preferably, the hydrogen bond acceptors are chosen from betaine, trehalose, glucose and panthenol. In particular, the hydrogen bond acceptors are chosen from betaine.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors ranges from approximately 1:20 to approximately 1:0.1, preferably from approximately 1:13 to approximately 1:0.5, or about 1:10 to about 1:0.8, for example about 1:7, about 1:5, about 1:3, about 1:2, about 1:1.5, about 1:1.2, about 1 :1, and approximately 1:0.9.

Advantageously, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond acceptor and a hydrogen bond donor is present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% by weight to approximately 50% by weight, preferably approximately 0.05% by weight. weight to about 35% by weight, or from about 0.1% by weight to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Other hydrophilic active ingredients

According to the present invention, the polar phases can carry a quantity of other hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning the keratinous fibers, than the deep eutectic solvents above, that is to say any natural or synthetic compound, generally organic, which is soluble in deep eutectic solvent. For example, other hydrophilic active ingredients may include plant extracts, tinctures and preservatives.

As hydrophilic plant extracts, mention may be made of citrus jundos fruit extract, aloe vera extract, lavender extract, citrus aurantium extract, ginkgo biloba extract, lemon extract, zingiber officinale extract and the like.

As hydrophilic dyes, mention may be made in particular of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, including acidic or basic water-soluble dyes, for example FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850) , DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), ACID Red 52 (CI: 45100), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090), Acid Black 1, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Red 76, and combinations thereof.

As hydrophilic preservatives, mention may in particular be made of pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, capryl glycol, sodium benzonate, and the like.

Combination of surfactants

The composition of the present invention optionally comprises a combination of surfactants, consisting of at least one nonionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant, in which the ionic surfactant is preferably chosen from anionic surfactants.

So far, there is virtually no oil system or phase using reverse micelle technology to obtain dispersed polar phases comprising deep eutectic solvents, to carry an effective amount of a hydrophilic active ingredient for conditioning keratinous fibers .

By means of the combination of surfactants, reverse micelles are formed in the composition, so that the composition has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time. Additionally, the combination of surfactants allows for a relatively higher amount of hydrophilic active ingredients. Additionally, because DESs are, in themselves, hydrophilic active ingredients, the composition of the present invention often contains a greater amount of active than compositions comprising a reverse micelle system containing water cores.

Advantageously, the combination of surfactants is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactant

The nonionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably lipophilic.

As nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the nonionic surfactant having at least one C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain, for example one, two or three C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl chains, and preferably the nonionic surfactant further has an HLB value ranging from about 0 to about 10.

As examples, mention may be made of esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives of these. ci, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, of preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkylene oxides from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; and a mixture of these.

Among the examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned, one can include the addition products of ethylene oxide with the esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and a mixture thereof, especially those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as ethylene glycol dilaurate, ethylene glycol distearate, PEG-3 distearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-12, PEG-100 distearate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-2 dilaurate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dilaurate, ethylene glycol dioleate, PEG-3 dioleate, PEG- dioleate 4, etc.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, mention may be made in particular of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl di- and/or Trèsstearate) such as glyceryl 1,3-distearate, glycerol dioleate, glyceryl dilaurate, 1,3-dipalmitate. glyceryl and a mixture thereof.

As polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, the polyglycerol moiety may be derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, or 2 to 6 glycerols, and/or the fatty acid may be a C fatty acid. ₆ -C ₂₂ , and preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid.

The polyglycerol esters of fatty acids can be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-esters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids may be chosen from polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-caprylate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-caprate comprising from 2 to 10 units of glycerol, mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-laurate of polyglyceryl comprising from 2 to 10 units of glycerol, mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-myristate of polyglyceryl comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-palmitate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-stearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-isostearate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleate comprising from 2 to 10 glycerol units, and mixtures of these, polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units and/or deriving from a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid being preferable.

The sorbitol esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof may be chosen from sorbitan Trèsstearate, sorbitan trioleate and fatty acid esters such as span 65, span 85 and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds sold under the names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Croda.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may in particular be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more particularly diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (methylglucose dioleate), mixed ester of methylglucoside and the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (methylglucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (methylglucose isostearate ), ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (methylglucose laurate), mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (methylglucose sesqui-isostearate), mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (methylglucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name GLUCAM E-20 DISTEARATE by Lubrizol, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of methyl-glucose monoester and diester and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name GLUCAMATE SSE-20 by Lubrizol, and a mixture thereof, can for example be cited.

As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose dilaurate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose trioleate, sucrose grisearate.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids; in particular polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-isostearate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% by weight to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% by weight to approximately 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ionic surfactant

In context, the term "ionic surfactant" means a surfactant carrying at least one anion or one cation in the molecule, and non-limiting examples which may be mentioned are anionic surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant and zwitterionic surfactant.

The ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably chosen from an anionic surfactant. Furthermore, the ionic surfactant according to the present invention is preferably lipophilic.

The anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinates, including mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinates present in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, from particularly preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl radicals may be present in a di-alkyl sulfosuccinate molecule, with identical ones being preferred. Alkyl radicals may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted.

The sulfosuccinates can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or salts alkaline earth metals such as magnesium salts.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the sulfosuccinates are chosen from alkali metal salts and even more particularly the sodium salt, including disodium salts for mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and sodium salts for di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is chosen from alkali metal cations and ions. ammonium.

Non-limiting examples of di-alkyl sulfosuccinates are sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicapryl sulfosuccinate, sodium didecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, sodium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, sodium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diisononyl sulfosuccinate, dio ctyl sulfosuccinate ammonium, ammonium diheptyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dihexyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicapryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium didecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, ammonium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate Ammonium, Dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate of ammonium, dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate of ammonium, diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate of potassium, dinonyl sulfosuccinate of potassium, dionlyl sulfosuccinate of potassium, Potassium nate, diheptyl sulfosuccinate of potassium, dihexyl sulfosuccinate of potassium, dicapryl sulfosuccinate of potassium, didecyl potassium sulfosuccinate, potassium diundecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dilauryl sulfosuccinate, potassium dicocoyl sulfosuccinate, potassium ditridecyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate, potassium dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.

Non-limiting examples of mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates are diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetyl sulfosuccinate, disodium coco-sulfosuccinate, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinate , disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium tridecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate being very particularly preferred.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which each alkyl has 6 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the two alkyls are identical. In one example, the anionic surfactant is sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate.

In order to meet the safety standard and not harm the health of users, a relatively small amount of ionic surfactant is required. Advantageously, the ionic surfactant is present in an amount less than about 5.0% by weight, preferably less than about 3.0% by weight, or less than about 1.5% by weight, and even in a range from 'about 0.1% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Reverse micelle system

By means of the system comprising the above continuous oil phase, the combination of surfactants and the polar phases, reverse micelles can be formed in the present composition. The reverse micelles allow the composition of the present invention to have a transparent appearance and to be thermodynamically stable over time.

Compared to reverse micelles comprising water cores, reverse micelles comprising DES cores can carry more hydrophilic active ingredients, since DES are, in themselves, hydrophilic active ingredients. Additionally, as a special solvent, DES can dissolve other hydrophilic active ingredients, for example plant extracts, tinctures and preservatives.

In the composition comprising said reverse micelles, the hydrophilic active ingredients are present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% by weight to about 2 .0% by weight, or from about 0.2% by weight to about 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Additional Ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective quantity of other ingredients, known elsewhere in compositions for conditioning keratinous fibers, for example perfumes, which are present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01% in weight to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.3% by weight to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily product

According to the second aspect of the present invention, an oily product comprising or consisting of the above transparent composition is provided. When the oily product consists of the transparent composition above, this means that the transparent composition above is in the form of an oily product. According to the present invention, the oily product can be in the form of a biphasic oily product or a homogeneous oily product.

Biphasic oily product

In context, the term “biphasic oily product” means a product that visually presents two phases or layers.

The biphasic oily product according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; and a polar phase comprising deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning the keratinous fibers. The types of oil phase, deep eutectic solvent and hydrophilic active ingredient are defined as above.

In one embodiment, the biphasic oily product according to the present invention comprises an oily phase and a polar phase.

In the bi-phasic oily product according to the present invention, the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from approximately 10% by weight to approximately 90% by weight, preferably from approximately 25% by weight to approximately 80% by weight. % by weight, or from about 40% by weight to about 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the biphasic oily product according to the present invention does not include any surfactant.

In one embodiment, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from about 8% by weight to about 50% by weight, preferably about 12% by weight. weight to about 35% by weight, or from about 15% by weight to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors is defined as above.

By means of the deep eutectic solvent comprising hydrophilic active ingredients, the two-phase oily product has a transparent appearance, and is thermodynamically stable over time. In one embodiment, the two-phase oily product is in the form of hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils.

Homogeneous oily product

In context, the term “homogeneous oily product” means a product that is homogeneous and transparent to the naked eye and not stratified at room temperature.

The homogeneous oily product according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil; dispersed polar phases comprising deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective quantity of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers; and a combination of surfactants consisting of at least one nonionic surfactant and optionally at least one ionic surfactant which is preferably an anionic surfactant. The types of oil phase, deep eutectic solvent, hydrophilic active ingredient and surfactant combination are defined as above.

In one embodiment, the homogeneous oily product according to the present invention comprises an oily phase and a plurality of polar phases dispersed in said oily phase.

In the homogeneous oily product according to the present invention, the above reverse micelles are formed, and the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from about 80% by weight to about 99% by weight, preferably about 85% by weight to about 98% by weight, or from about 90% by weight to about 96% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt% to about 5 wt%, preferably about 0 .05% by weight to about 3% by weight, or from about 0.1% by weight to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of hydrogen bond acceptors to hydrogen bond donors is defined as above.

Thanks to a specific system of reverse micelles comprising the deep eutectic solvent, the homogeneous oily product has a transparent appearance and is thermodynamically stable over time. In one embodiment, the homogeneous oily product is in the form of hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably leave-in hair oils.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the oil phase, the polar phase and the surfactants, if present, as well as additional ingredient(s), as explained above.

The process and means for mixing the various ingredients above are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the various ingredients above in order to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The term “clear” is interchangeable with the term “transparent” for the purposes of this disclosure.

The presence of reverse micelles can be confirmed by measuring the size of the reverse micelles by dynamic light scattering (DLS).

The composition can be used on damp or dry hair.

According to the third aspect of the present invention, it relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratinous fibers comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers.

According to the fourth aspect of the present invention, it relates to the use of the composition of the present invention as hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and should not be interpreted as limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1.

INCI name Trade name Supplier Dimethicone DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 5 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) Isododecane ISODODECANE INEOS Trisiloxane XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) Dimethicone DOWSIL PMX-1301 FLUID DOW CORNINIG (DOW CHEMICAL) Fragrance/perfume LA LA LAN 93Y GIVAUDAN Trehalose TREHALOSE 100 HAYASHIBARA Glucose DEXTROSE MONOHYDRATE F ROCKET Panthenol D PANTHENOL CARE BASF Betaine GENENCARE OSMS BA DANISCO Lactic acid L(+)-LACTIC ACID 90% HEAT STABLE PERSONAL CARE GRADE JUNGBUNZLAUER Propylene glycol 1,2-PROPYLENEGLYCOL CARE BASF Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate COSMOL 43 V (MB) NISSHIN OILLIO Polyglyceryl-2 oleate SUNSOFT Q-17D(G)-C TAIYO KAGAKU Diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate AEROSOL OT 100% SURFACTANT CYTEC

Inventive Example 1

A biphasic hair oil according to the inventive IE formula. 1 was prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of the ingredients relative to the total weight of the hair oil, unless otherwise indicated), in which the water comes from the ingredients of the polar phase as an impurity:

Phase Components IE. 1 Oily phase Dimethicone (5 tsp) 3 Isododecane QS100 Trisiloxane (1 tsp) 3 Dimethicone (500,000 cSt) 3 Scent 0.48 Polar phase Lactic acid 9 Water 1 Betaine 10 Propylene glycol 20

Preparation procedure:

The composition was prepared from the following steps:

1) mix betaine and lactic acid in the quantities shown in table 2;

2) heat the mixture to approximately 80°C, and stir for a few minutes to obtain a transparent and stable solution;

3) prepare the oil phase by carefully mixing and stirring the oils;

4) prepare the polar phase by mixing preformulated DES lactic acid/betaine with propylene glycol; And

5) mix the oily phase with the polar phase.

Assessment :

The stability of the resulting hair oil was evaluated by maintaining the hair oil at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) or 45°C for 2 months and observing it with the naked eye to verify if the hair oil was transparent. The oil is considered stable if the tested hair oil is transparent at 4°C, room temperature (20°C) and 45°C for 2 months, otherwise it is considered unstable.

The appearance of the hair oil obtained was observed with the naked eye.

The result was summarized in Table 3.

Properties IE. 1 Stability Stable Appearance Upper oily phase: homogeneous, transparent
Lower polar phase: homogeneous, transparent

From Tables 2 and 3, it can be seen that the biphasic hair oil from IE. 1 had a transparent appearance, and was thermodynamically stable over time.

Inventive Examples 2 and 3 and Comparative Example 1

Homogeneous hair oils according to the inventive IE formulas. 2 and 3 and the comparative formula CE. 1 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 4 (the contents were expressed as weight percentages of ingredients relative to the total weight of each hair oil, unless otherwise indicated), with water from the polar phase ingredients as that impurity:

Phase Components IE. 2 IE. 3 THIS. 1 Oily phase
Dimethicone (5 tsp) 5 5 5 Isododecane QS100 QS100 QS100 Trisiloxane (1 tsp) 5 5 5 Dimethicone (500,000 cSt) 5 5 5 Scent 0.8 0.8 0.8 Polar phase Lactic acid 0.11 0.18 / Water 0.01 0.02 0.01 Betaine 0.13 0.2 0.13 Combination of surfactants
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 3 3 3 Polyglyceryl oleate2 1 1 1 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate / 0.15 0.15

Preparation procedure:

The compositions were prepared from the following steps:

1) mix betaine and lactic acid in the quantities shown in table 4;

2) heat the mixture to approximately 80 °C, and stir for a few minutes to obtain transparent and stable solutions of the polar phase;

3) prepare the oil phase by carefully mixing and stirring the oils;

4) add the surfactants into the oil phase, and stir carefully at room temperature to completely dissolve the surfactants in the oils; And

5) add the preformulated polar phase into the oily phase containing the surfactants, and stir carefully at room temperature to obtain transparent and homogeneous liquids.

Assessment :

The stability and appearance of the obtained homogeneous hair oils were evaluated as described above.

The results were summarized in Table 5.

Properties IE.2 IE. 3 THIS. 1 Stability Stable Stable Undissolved betaine powders Appearance Homogeneous, transparent Homogeneous, transparent Phase separation, deposits

From Tables 4 and 5, it can be seen that each of the hair oils of IE. 2 and 3 presented a transparent appearance, and was thermodynamically stable over time.

On the other hand, the composition which did not include the deep eutectic solvent of the present invention led to phase separation, that is to say, it could not obtain the desirable transparent appearance.

Furthermore, from Tables 4 and 5, it can be seen that no amount or only 0.15 wt% of the anionic surfactant in the reverse micelle system encapsulated an amount as high as 0.38%. by weight of hydrophilic active ingredients in the composition and gave the composition a stable transparent appearance. This amount of hydrophilic active ingredients was higher than that of the same reverse micelle system including water cores. The amount of anionic surfactant, as low as 0.15% by weight, meets safety standards and does not harm the health of users.

Measuring the size of reverse micelles by dynamic light scattering

The sizes of the formulated reverse micelles were characterized using Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) equipment at Brookhaven. The DLS experiment measured the hydrodynamic radius of the reverse micelles, and included solvation effects. Since the viscosity of the base oil was higher than the maximum value suggested by Brookhaven, pure isododecane was chosen as the representative simplex oil for the study of reverse micelle systems by DLS. The main experimental parameters defined for the DLS experiments are listed in Table 6.

Settings Fixed value for DLS measurements Instrument settings Corner 90 degrees Wave length 659nm Cell type BI-SCP Measurement parameters Temperature 25°C Set duration 100 seconds Equilibrium time 120 seconds Dust cut-off 20 Sample Parameters Liquid Not specified (isododecane) Viscosity 4 CP Refractive index 1.42

In the following Table 7, samples 1 and 2 corresponded to the IEs. 2 and 3 respectively, but the oil bases have been simplified using isododecane alone. All results for mean effective diameter and mean polydispersity were obtained from at least three measurements.

Samples 1 and 2 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 7 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of the ingredients relative to the total weight of each sample, unless otherwise indicated):

Phase Components Sample 1 Sample 2 Oily phase Isododecane QS100 QS100 Polar phase
(OF THE) Lactic acid 0.11 0.18 Water 0.01 0.02 Betaine 0.13 0.2 Combination of surfactants
Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate 3 3 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate 1 1 Sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate / 0.15 Average effective diameter (nm) 28.3±5.4 2.8±0.1 Average polydispersity 0.25±0.03 0.09±0.03

The polydispersity index definition (PDI) is a dimensionless measure of the width of the size distribution calculated from cumulant analysis. This value must range from 0 to 1. If this value is greater than 1, the distribution is too polydisperse and the sample is not suitable for measurement by DLS.

From Table 7 above, together with Figures 1 and 2, it can be seen that each of samples 1 and 2 obtained an average polydispersity less than 1. Thus, it was demonstrated that reverse micelles having the diameters average numbers shown in Table 7 were actually formed and were stable over time in the homogeneous IE hair oils. 2 and 3.

Thanks to the stable reverse micelles formed in the homogeneous hair oils of the present invention, the homogeneous hair oils retained the transparent appearance over time, and an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients, for example 0.25% by weight or even more, relative to the total weight of the composition, can be contained in the dispersed polar phases of the transparent composition of the present invention.

Claims (10)

Transparent composition for conditioning keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:
a) a continuous oily phase, comprising at least one oil, and
b) one or more polar phases, comprising deep eutectic solvents to carry an effective amount of hydrophilic active ingredients for conditioning keratinous fibers, wherein the deep eutectic solvent includes a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor. Transparent composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrogen bond donor is an organic acid, and is preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, nicotinic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, acid adipic, galacturonic acid and gluconic acid; more preferably, the hydrogen bond donor is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and citric acid; in particular, the hydrogen bond donor is chosen from lactic acid. Transparent composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrogen bond acceptor is chosen from quaternary salts, including quaternary ammonium salts and quaternary phosphonium salts, for example betaine and choline chloride; polyols derived from sugars, for example trehalose, xylitol, glucose and panthenol; and amino acids, for example alanine, glycine, histidine and proline; preferably, the hydrogen bond acceptor is chosen from betaine, trehalose, glucose and panthenol; in particular, the hydrogen bond acceptor is chosen from betaine. A transparent composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a surfactant combination consisting of at least one nonionic surfactant and optionally at least one anionic surfactant, wherein reverse micelles are formed in the composition. Transparent composition according to claim 4, in which the nonionic surfactant comprises at least one C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain, such as one, two or three C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl chains, in which the alkyl chain in the nonionic surfactant is preferably a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl chain; preferably, the nonionic surfactant also has an HLB value ranging from 0 to 10. Transparent composition according to claim 5, in which the nonionic surfactant is chosen from polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-oleate comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono-, di- or tri-isostearate comprising from 2 to 6 units of glycerol, and mixtures thereof; and preferably is chosen from polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and mixtures thereof. Transparent composition according to claim 4, in which the anionic surfactant is chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates, and is preferably chosen from di-alkyl sulfosuccinates with two identical alkyls, in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 atoms of carbon, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Transparent composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, in which the combination of surfactants consists of
polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate,
sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate,
sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, or
sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate. Transparent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is in the form of a biphasic oily product, for example, hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably hair oils. leave-in hair oils, wherein the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% by weight to 80% by weight, or from 40% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from 8% by weight to 50% by weight, preferably from 12% by weight to 35% by weight, or from 15% by weight to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Transparent composition according to any one of claims 4 to 8, which is in the form of a homogeneous oily product, for example, hair oils, including leave-in hair oils and rinse-out hair oils, and preferably hair oils. leave-in hair oils, wherein the at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from 80% by weight to 99% by weight, preferably from 85% by weight to 98% by weight, or from 90% by weight to 96% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the deep eutectic solvent including a hydrogen bond donor and a hydrogen bond acceptor is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.05 wt% to 3% by weight, or from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.