FR3121041A1 - Two-phase composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Two-phase composition The present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising: (a) at least one ester oil, and (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil; and an aqueous phase comprising (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention exhibits two visually distinct phases when unmixed. However, the composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a monophasic composition when mixed. The monophasic composition, such as an emulsion, can provide good cosmetic effects such as good make-up removal properties, with a soft feeling to the touch during application and the elimination of residues on the wall of the packaging which includes the composition. The single-phase composition can revert to a two-phase composition over time with a controlled demulsification rate. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Two-phase composition

The present invention relates to a two-phase or biphasic composition which exhibits two visually distinct phases and which is capable of transforming into a single-phase composition which can transform back into the two-phase or biphasic composition.

art background

Compositions having two visually distinct phases, namely an aqueous phase and an oil phase, which are not emulsified into each other upon standing, are generally referred to as "two-phase" (or "biphasic") compositions. They are distinguished from emulsions by the fact that, at rest, the two phases are separated and form a single interface between the two phases, instead of forming multiple interfaces between a continuous phase and each of the discontinuous phases which are present in emulsions. .

Such two-phase compositions have already been described, for example, in documents EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080, in particular for removing make-up from the eye contour.

disclosure of the invention

When used, a two-phase composition requires mixing, such as agitation, to form a single-phase composition, such as a "temporary" emulsion, which is then applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin. This monophasic composition must provide target cosmetic effects such as good make-up removal ability. It is preferred that the monophasic composition be capable of providing a smooth feel to the touch during application. On the other hand, after use, i.e. at rest, the monophasic composition must return to its initial state by transforming into a two-phase composition, which is known as “phase separation”.

Users of such a two-phase composition tend to feel more hydrated if the single phase formed by mixing the two-phase composition stays on longer. It is therefore important to control the speed of “phase separation”, i.e. the speed of demulsification.

Another important factor is the cleanliness of the package that includes a two-phase composition after mixing the two-phase composition. Conventional two-phase compositions sometimes leave residue on the wall of packages that include the compositions after mixing. This residue gives users an undesirable “dirty” or “unclean” impression.

There is therefore a need for a two-phase or biphasic composition with two visually distinct phases, when unmixed, which can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good make-up removal ability, soft touch feeling during application and removal of residues on the wall of the package which includes the composition, and can return to its original state, that is- i.e. a two-phase or two-phase composition, with a controlled demulsification rate.

An object of the present invention is to provide a two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good make-up removal ability, with soft feeling to the touch during application and removal of residues on the wall of the package which includes the composition, and can return to its initial state, i.e. a two-phase or biphasic composition, with a controlled demulsification rate.

The above objective can be achieved by a two-phase composition comprising:

an oily phase comprising

(a) at least one ester oil, and

(b) at least one hydrocarbon oil;

And

an aqueous phase comprising

(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and

(d) water,

in which

the amount of (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a monophasic composition. The single-phase composition can turn into a two-phase composition.

The (a) ester oil can be chosen from esters of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; preferably esters of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols; and more preferably alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and alkyl palmitates such as isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (b) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from volatile branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 5% to 50% by weight, preferably more than 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably more than 5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.005% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% to 95% by weight, preferably 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 45% to 85% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio of the amount of the oil phase to the amount of the water phase may be from 60:40 to 10:90, preferably from 50:50 to 10:90, and more preferably from 40:60 to 10 :90.

The composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and the eyelashes.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance, comprising:

mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a monophasic composition; And

the application of the monophasic composition to the keratinous substance.

There shows the appearance of the wall of the packaging 30 minutes after well shaking the packaging which includes the composition according to Example 1.

There shows the appearance of the wall of the packaging 30 minutes after well shaking the packaging which includes the composition according to Comparative Example 3.

BEST MODE FOR IMPLEMENTING THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide a two-phase composition which can be transformed into a single-phase composition when mixed, wherein the single-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good ability to remove make-up, with a soft feeling to the touch during application and the elimination of residues on the wall of the packaging which includes the composition, and can return to its initial state, that is to say a composition with two-phase or two-phase, with a controlled demulsification rate.

Thus, one of the aspects of the present invention relates to a two-phase composition comprising:

an oily phase comprising

(a) at least one ester oil, and

(b) at least one hydrocarbon oil;

And

an aqueous phase comprising

(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and

(d) water,

in which

the amount of (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention exhibits two visually distinct phases when unmixed. However, the composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a monophasic composition when mixed. The monophasic composition, such as an emulsion, can provide good cosmetic effects such as good make-up removal properties, with a soft feeling to the touch during application and the elimination of residues on the wall of the packaging which includes the composition. The single-phase composition can revert to a two-phase composition over time with a controlled demulsification rate.

The composition according to the present invention is stable so that it can maintain an oil phase and a water phase separately when not mixed. Therefore, the two-phase or biphasic appearance of the composition according to the present invention can be maintained during storage and the like of the composition according to the present invention.

In particular, the composition according to the present invention is stable so that the appearance and/or the odor of the composition can remain unchanged for a long period of time under various temperature and storage conditions. For example, the composition according to the present invention is stable at low temperature, with or without agitation. Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be stored well, especially at a lower temperature, even during transportation by automobiles which may cause vibration and the like.

During its use, the composition according to the present invention is mixed. The two phases of the composition according to the present invention are an oily phase and an aqueous phase. Consequently, when mixing the composition according to the present invention, one of the two phases can be dispersed in the other phase to form an O/W or W/O composition, such as an O/W or W /H, which is visually uniform or forms a single phase.

The mixing of the composition according to the present invention can be easily carried out. For example, the mixing of the composition according to the present invention can be carried out by agitation with the hands. After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form and maintain a single phase for a certain period of time without being mixed again.

According to the present invention, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition can provide good cosmetic effects such as good makeup removal ability. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a cosmetic composition, preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and the eyelashes.

Further, the single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can provide good texture, such as soft touch feeling. Also, it can offer less friction. Rubbing can cause a relatively large shedding of the outer layer of the skin's epidermis, and can make the skin's surface rough. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a smooth skin finish.

The single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be less irritating. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be, for example, gentle on the skin, in particular for sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes.

Further, the composition according to the present invention can remove residues or dirt on the wall of the package which includes the composition after being transformed into a monophasic composition. Thus, it is possible to maintain the cleanliness of the packaging which includes the composition according to the present invention during its use.

Further, if the two-phase composition according to the present invention before being mixed is transparent, the single-phase composition formed by mixing the two-phase composition may also be transparent.

The single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can return to the two-phase composition, after a certain time, by causing the phase separation to again form two visually distinct phases.

According to the present invention, the rate of demulsification of the monophasic composition can be controlled. For example, it is possible to make the monophasic composition last longer. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can give a feeling of being more hydrated. Further, the use time of a single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be extended, and therefore, the usability of the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be improved. .

Furthermore, according to the present invention, the interface between the two reformed phases can be clean so that no precipitation is present at the interface.

The composition according to the present invention is useful in particular as a make-up remover, preferably as a make-up remover for keratinous fibres, and more preferably as a make-up remover for eyelashes, that is to say a mascara.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail.

[Composition]

(ester oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one ester oil. If two or more ester oils are used, they may be the same or different.

The (a) ester oil contributes to form the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

Here, “oil” means a compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The (a) ester oil can be chosen from esters of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. The total number of carbon atoms of the esters may be greater than or equal to 10, preferably 13, and more preferably 16.

It is preferable that the (a) ester oil be chosen from esters of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols.

It is more preferred that, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of dicaprylyl carbonate; alkyl palmitates such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and ethyl myristate; isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₄ unsweetened alcohols. -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As (a) ester oils, it is possible to use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” denotes oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives of these, in particular the alkyl derivatives, such as the methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C 30 fatty acids. ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as , in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example which may be mentioned is the product sold under the name ^Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate , 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononanoate isononyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tetra(2- pentaerythrityl ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the oil phase.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the oil phase, provided that the amount of (a) ester oil is not zero.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight. , and more preferably from 60% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 2% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably of 8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (a) ester oil is not zero.

The amount of the ester oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Hydrocarbon oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil. If two or more hydrocarbon oils are used, they may be the same or different.

The (b) hydrocarbon oil contributes to form the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

Here, “oil” means a compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The (b) hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from:

- C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam ^® , and squalane.

Preferable examples of (b) hydrocarbon oil include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The (b) hydrocarbon oil may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from volatile branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the oil phase.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the oil phase, provided that the amount of (b) hydrocarbon oil is not zero.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the oil phase.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention is greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of (b) hydrocarbon oil(s) is not zero.

The amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 5% to 50% by weight, preferably more than 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably more than 5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Ratio between ester oil and hydrocarbon oil)

The weight ratio of the amount of ester oil(s) to the amount of hydrocarbon oil(s) can be adjusted to control the rate of demulsification of a single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

The weight ratio of the amount of the ester oil(s):the amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s) can be from 10:90 to 90:10 , preferably 20:80 to 80:20, and more preferably 30:70 to 70:30.

On the other hand, (the quantity of the ester(s) oil(s))/(the total of the quantity of the ester(s) oil(s) and the amount of the hydrocarbon oil(s)) may be 0.2 or more, preferably 0.3 or more, more preferably 0.4 or more, more preferably more preferably 0.5 or more, and especially 0.6 or more.

The greater the quantity of (a) ester(s) oil(s), the slower the demulsification rate of a single-phase composition formed by the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

(Additional oil)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional oil which is different from (a) ester oil or (b) hydrocarbon oil. If two or more additional oils are used, they may be the same or different.

The additional oil can contribute to the formation of the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The additional oil can be selected from polar or non-polar oils.

The supplemental oil can be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, artificial triglycerides, silicone oils, fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, meadowfoam oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri glyceryl (caprate/caprylate) (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) and tri(glyceryl caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (INCI name: Dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and contain in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione ^® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone ^® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione ^® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold as Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile ^Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which there may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

- ^Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or ^Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the Mirasil ^® series sold by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from Dow Corning, such as DC200, the viscosity of which is 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal dimethylsilanol groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenylsilicone oil can be chosen from the phenylsilicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each _other , are C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900 inclusive, preferably between 0 and 500 inclusive, and more preferably between 0 and 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione ^® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the ^Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- Bayer's PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (R ₁ to R _{1 0} are methyl groups; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the ^Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl, arachidonyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably alcohols in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here denotes an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable for the saturated fatty alcohol to be chosen from any saturated, linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol. Among the saturated, linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, the saturated, linear or branched C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can preferably be used. All C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, saturated linear or branched, can be used more preferably. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used more preferably.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol and hexyldecanol can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferable that the additional oil is not chosen from ether oils.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the oily phase, provided that the amount of additional oil is not zero.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the oily phase of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight, and from more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 wt% or more, preferably 5 wt% or more, and more preferably 10 wt%. by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30 wt% or less, preferably 25 wt% or less, and more preferably 20 wt%. by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of additional oil is not zero.

The amount of the additional oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester. If two (c) or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, they may be the same or different.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be present in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be chosen from mono-, di- and triesters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably of a saturated fatty acid, including from 2 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.

It is preferred that (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 6 glycerols, more preferably from 4 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably from 5 or 6 glycerols. In other words, it is preferable that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, more preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and still more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units.

In the composition according to the present invention, the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is present in the aqueous phase. Therefore, (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is relatively hydrophilic.

Thus, the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value of 8.0 or more, preferably 9.0 or more, and more preferably 10.0 or more. . If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

The term HLB (for “hydrophilic-lipophilic balance” or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is well known to those skilled in the art and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(1-S/A), where S is the saponification index of the ester and A is the neutralization index of the fatty acid.

The (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can be chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 17.0, preferably 9.0 to 16.0, and more preferably 10.0 to 15.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid monoester may be selected from the group consisting of PG4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG4 laurate (HLB: 10.3), PG4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), laurate PG5 (HLB: 10.5), PG6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG4 caprate (HLB: approximately 15), PG5 myristate (HLB: 15.4) , PG5 stearate (HLB: 15), PG5 oleate (HLB: 12.2), PG6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG6 laurate (HLB: 14 ,1) and mixtures thereof.

It is preferred that the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid diester may have an HLB value of 8.0 to 13.0, preferably 9.0 to 12.0, and more preferably 10.0 to 11.0. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid diester can be selected from the group consisting of PG-6 distearate (HLB: 8), PG-6 dioleate (HLB: 9.8), PG-6 dicaprate (HLB: : 10.2) and mixtures thereof.

As PG6 dicaprate, for example, Sunsoft Q-102H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. can be used. As PG6 dioleate, Sunsoft Q-172H-C marketed by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. can be used. As PG6 distearate, Emalex DSG-6 marketed by Nihon Emulsion Co., Ltd. can be used.

The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 0.005% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more. more, and more preferably 0.05% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less. less and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, provided that the amount of (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not zero.

The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.005% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0 .5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and in such a way more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is not zero.

The amount of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

(d) water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (d) water in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of (d) water in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 98% by weight or less, and more preferably 97% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, provided that the quantity of (d) water is not zero.

The amount of (d) water in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 45% to 98% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% by weight or more, preferably 40% by weight or more, and more preferably 45% by weight or more, based on to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of (d) water is not zero.

The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 35% to 95% by weight, preferably 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably 45% to 85% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

(aromatic ketone compound)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one aromatic ketone compound. If two or more aromatic ketone compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

The aromatic ketone compound may be present in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The aromatic ketone compound is represented by the following chemical formula (I)

(I)

in which

R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , each independently, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, or a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group, provided that at least one of R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ represents a hydroxyl group, and

R represents a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group or an aryl group.

As the C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, there may be mentioned, for example, a methyl group, an ethyl group and a propyl group. A methyl group is preferable.

As the C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group, there can be mentioned, for example, a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group. A methoxy group is preferable.

As the aryl group, there can be mentioned, for example, a phenyl group, a substituted phenyl group, a naphthyl group and a substituted naphthyl group. As the substituent(s), there may be mentioned a hydroxyl group and a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group such as a methyl group. A phenyl group is preferable.

It is preferable that the R in the chemical formula (I) above represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or a phenyl group, preferably a methyl group or a phenyl group, and more preferably a methyl group.

As an aromatic ketone compound, mention may be made, for example, of

2-hydroxyacetophenone,

3-hydroxyacetophenone,

4-hydroxyacetophenone,

2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone,

2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone,

4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone,

3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone,

2',2'-dihydroxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxybenzophenone,

2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, and

3,4,2',4',6'-pentahydroxybenzophenone.

It is preferred that the aromatic ketone compound be a hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably a monohydroxyacetophenone, and even more preferably a 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 0.005% by weight or more, preferably 0.01% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.05% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less and more preferably 0.1% by weight. or less, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, provided that the amount of the aromatic ketone compound is not zero.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.005% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0 0.05% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, per relative to the total weight of the composition, provided that the quantity of the aromatic ketone compound is not zero.

The amount of the aromatic ketone compound in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 0. 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Citric Acid Ester)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one citric acid ester. If two or more citric acid esters are used, they may be the same or different.

The citric acid ester may be present in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The citric acid ester can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

(I)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ independently represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C ₃ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, in which at least one of R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ is not a hydrogen atom, and

R ₄ represents a hydrogen atom or an R' ₄ -CO- group in which R' ₄ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ hydrocarbon group, or a C ₃ -C ₈ hydrocarbon group cyclic saturated or unsaturated.

It is preferred that all R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic C ₃ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, more preferably preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group, and even more preferably a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl group.

It is preferable that R ₄ is a hydrogen atom or an R' ₄ -CO- group in which R' ₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₈ hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, more preferably a hydrogen atom or an R' ₄ -CO- group in which R' ₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, linear or branched, and even more preferably a hydrogen atom or an R' ₄ group -CO- in which R' ₄ represents a methyl group.

It may be preferred that the citric acid ester be selected from the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl), and a mixture thereof, more preferably the group consisting of triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, triethyl acetyl citrate, tributyl acetyl citrate, and a mixture thereof, and further more preferably ethyl citrate.

The amount of citric acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the citric acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase, provided that the amount of citric acid ester is not zero.

The amount of citric acid ester(s) in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. , and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The amount of the citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably of 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less and more preferably 5 wt%. or less, based on the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of citric acid ester is not zero.

The amount of citric acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Cosmetic active ingredient)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient. A single type of cosmetic active ingredient, or two or more different types of cosmetic active ingredient may be used in combination.

The cosmetic active ingredient may preferably be water-insoluble or oil-insoluble.

The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more. more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on to the total weight of the composition, provided that the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient is not zero.

The amount of the cosmetic active ingredient in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Additional surfactant)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant which is different from (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester. If two or more additional surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

However, it may be preferable that the amount of additional surfactant be small.

The amount of the additional surfactant may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. It is in particular preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise any additional surfactant.

(Other ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.

The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but can be between 0.01% and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; organic or inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolysates; blowing agents; penetrants; thickeners; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; vitamins or provitamins; perfumes ; preservatives, co-preservatives, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar, sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

The organic solvent(s) may then be present at a concentration of 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be controlled. The pH can be, for example, between 3 and 11, preferably between 3.5 and 9, and more preferably between 4 and 7. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basifying agent.

The acidifying agents can be, for example, mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid or acids sulfonic.

The basifying agent can be, for example, an ammonium hydroxide, an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, as well as as their derivatives, preferably sodium or potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula below:

in which

R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine may be preferable.

The acidifying or basifying agent may be present in an amount ranging from less than 5% by weight, preferably 1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, based on the weight composition total.

(Form)

The composition according to the present invention can have two visually distinct phases. One of the two phases is an oily phase, and the other is an aqueous phase.

The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 10 wt% or more, preferably 20 wt% or more, and more preferably 30 wt% or more, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, based on the total weight. of the composition, provided that the quantity of the oily phase is not zero.

The amount of the oily phase in the composition according to the present invention can be from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase comprises, at least, (a) at least one ester oil and (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil, as explained above.

The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, based on the weight composition total.

The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less and more preferably 70% by weight or less, based on the total weight. of the composition, provided that the quantity of the aqueous phase is not zero.

The amount of the aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 70% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises, at least, (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and (d) water, as explained above.

Additionally, the aqueous phase may include at least one additional hydrophilic ingredient. In one embodiment, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one pH adjuster such as an acid and a base, and/or at least one salt thereof such as an alkali metal salt thereof.

The composition according to the present invention can be transformed into a monophasic composition when it is mixed. The composition according to the present invention after mixing can be of the O/W or W/O type, preferably in the form of an O/W or W/O liquid composition, and more preferably in the form of an emulsion. O/W or W/O.

If the relative density of the oily phase is lower than that of the aqueous phase, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase, in the composition according to the present invention. Typically, the oily phase is present on the aqueous phase, at rest, because the relative density of oil tends to be lower than that of water.

The weight ratio of the amount of the oil phase to the amount of the water phase may be from 60:40 to 10:90, preferably from 50:50 to 10:90, and more preferably from 40:60 to 10 :90.

(Preparation)

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by forming an oily phase by mixing (a) ester oil(s) and (b) hydrocarbon oil(s), or by mixing ingredients which include (a) ester oil(s) and (b) hydrocarbon oil(s), for the oil phase, forming an aqueous phase by mixing (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and (d) water, or by mixing ingredients which include (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) and (d) water, for the aqueous phase, and by combining the oily phase and the aqueous phase.

For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared by the process comprising:

(i) the mixture

(a) at least one ester oil

(b) at least one hydrocarbon oil,

with at least one optional ingredient to form an oil phase;

(ii) mixing

(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester; And

(d) water

with at least one optional ingredient to form an aqueous phase; And

(iii) the combination of the oily phase and the aqueous phase.

The mixing step can be carried out by any conventional means.

It is preferable that the step of combining the oil phase and the aqueous phase be carried out gently so that the oil phase and the aqueous phase are slowly poured into a container such as a package or a container.

The material of the container is not limited. For example, container material such as packaging or containers can be inorganic such as glasses and metals, organic such as resins and plastics, and combinations thereof. The resins can be chosen from thermoplastic resins such as polyolefins and polyesters (for example, polyethylene terephthalate or PET). It is best if the material is transparent or translucent.

[Usage and process]

When using the composition according to the present invention, it will be mixed for example by shaking it with the hands (hand shaking). After mixing the composition according to the present invention, the composition can form a monophasic composition. The monophasic composition can be applied to a keratinous substance to provide targeted cosmetic effects.

The keratinous substance can be the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, or the keratinous fibers such as the eyebrows and the eyelashes.

The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, and even more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition for the skin and the eyelashes.

The composition according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects such as make-up removal.

The composition according to the present invention can also provide a good texture such as a smooth touch feeling, and therefore, it can provide a smooth skin finish.

The composition according to the present invention can be comfortable because it can be less irritating, and it can be gentle on the skin, in particular sensitive skin such as the skin around the eyes.

The skin here includes the skin of the face, the skin of the neck, and the scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for the mucous membranes such as the lips.

The composition according to the present invention can be used as it is (as a topical product), or can be used by being impregnated in a porous substrate such as a nonwoven fabric, preferably made of cellulose fibers, such as cotton.

In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, the lips, the eyebrows and the eyelashes. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process on a keratinous substance such as the skin, the lips, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, preferably the skin and the eyelashes.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for caring for or cleaning, and not for making up, a keratinous substance. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention can be used for care products such as a lotion or cleaning products such as a make-up remover, and not for make-up products such as a foundation. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise iron oxide, or comprises iron oxide in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably 0.2% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.

The cosmetic process for a keratinous substance according to the present invention may comprise, at least, the steps of

mixing the composition according to the present invention to form a monophasic composition; And

application of the monophasic composition to the keratinous substance.

The monophasic composition does not have two visually distinct phases. Instead, the monophasic composition has a single phase which is typically an emulsion phase. The emulsion phase may not be transparent, but it can be translucent or opaque.

The present invention may relate to the use of

(b) at least one hydrocarbon oil

in a two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising (a) at least one ester oil and an aqueous phase comprising (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in order to improve the make-up removal ability of a single-phase composition prepared by mixing the two-phase composition.

The present invention may relate to the use of

(a) at least one ester oil

in a two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil and an aqueous phase comprising (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (d) water, wherein the amount of the (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to improve smoothness during application of a single-phase composition prepared by mixing the composition with two stages.

The present invention may relate to the use of

(a) at least one ester oil

in a two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil and an aqueous phase comprising (c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and (d) water, wherein the amount of (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to decrease the rate of demulsification of a single-phase composition prepared by mixing the two-phase composition.

The present invention may relate to the use of

(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester

in a two-phase composition comprising an oil phase comprising (a) at least one ester oil and (b) at least one hydrocarbon oil and an aqueous phase comprising (d) water, wherein the amount of the ( b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, in order to improve the cleanliness of the package which includes a single-phase composition prepared by mixing the two-phase composition.

The above explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (d) in the composition according to the present application can be applied to the ingredients (a) to (d) in the use according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented by way of non-limiting illustrations within the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4]

The following compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows.

(1) mixing the oil phase preparation ingredients (OP preparation in Table 1) at about 25°C to form a uniform mixture of the oil phase ingredients;

(2) mixing the aqueous phase preparation ingredients (AP preparation in Table 1) at about 60°C to form a uniform mixture of aqueous phase preparation ingredients; And

(3) Transferring the above to a package in the order of the aqueous phase preparation ingredients, then the oil phase preparation ingredients to mix them for each composition.

The actual mixing weight ratio of the oil phase preparation: water phase preparation was 13.5:86.5 for Examples 1-5 and Comparative Examples 1-3, and 50:50 for the Example 6 and Comparative Example 4.

It should be noted that "hydroxyacetophenone" means 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active ingredients.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Ex. 1 Comp. Example 2
Comp. Example 3
Comp. Example 4
Comp. OR preparation Isohexadecane 66.7 66.7 48.9 28.9 66.7 66.7 - 66.7 66.7 66.7 Isododecane 11.1 11.1 11.1 11.1 11.1 11.1 - 11.1 11.1 11.1 Isopropyl Myristate 22.2 - 40 60.0 22.2 22.2 11.1 - 22.2 22.2 Isopropyl Palmitate - 22.2 - - - - 11.1 - - - Dicaprylyl ether - - - - - - 77.8 22.2 - - Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 PA preparation Hydroxyacetophenone 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Citric acid 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 sodium citrate 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.1 0.05 0.05 0.05 - - Myrtrimonium Bromide 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 Triethyl citrate 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 OP/AP actual weight ratio 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 50/50 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 13.5/86.5 50/50

OP: Oily phase AP: Aqueous phase

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 1
Comp. Example 2
Comp. Example 3
Comp. Example 4
Comp. Ability to remove make-up Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Bad Excellent Good Excellent Transparency Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Transparency after shaking Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Precipitation at the interface No No No No No No No No No No Demulsification speed 32'25" 36'40" 70'12" 289'10" 30'20" 140'15" 41'53" 17'49" 44'50" 295'10" Candy Good Good Good Good Good Excellent Good Bad Excellent Excellent 3.5 3.5 3.7 3.9 3.2 4.4 3.9 2.9 3.9 4.6 Storage stability (4ºC) Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Storage stability (25ºC) Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Storage stability (45ºC) Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Storage stability (4ºC shaken daily) Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Cleanliness of the packaging Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Excellent Bad Very bad

[Ratings]

The compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were evaluated as follows.

(Ability to remove make-up)

Each of the 5 panelists made up their eyelashes by applying a mascara product (MAYBELLINE Volum'Express Hypercurl Waterproof N 01 Black) on the eyelashes with a brush with a total of 40 strokes (each time, the brush was dipped in a bottle including mascara product).

4 mL of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, the emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.

The panelists rated the ability to remove make-up with a rating ranging from 1 (very poor) to 5 (excellent), and the average of the ratings was classified according to the following criteria.

Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): No mascara residue was observed.

Good (3.9 to 3.0): Virtually no mascara residue was observed.

Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Some mascara residue was observed.

Very poor (1.9 to 1.0): Mascara residue was observed.

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Transparency)

The transparency of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, just after being prepared (before being stirred), was checked according to the following criteria.

Great: Clear

Good: Slightly translucent

Bad: Translucent

Very bad: Opaque

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Transparency after shaking)

The transparency of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, one week after stirring at 4° C., was checked according to the following criteria.

Excellent: Clear

Good: Slightly translucent

Bad: Translucent

Very bad: Opaque

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Precipitation at the interface)

The presence of precipitation at the interface between the oily phase and the aqueous phase of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, one week after stirring at 4° C., was verified.

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Demulsification speed)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was poured into a transparent glass bottle. The transparent bottle was shaken very well to form an emulsion. The transparent vial was allowed to stand, and the time required for the emulsion to completely disappear and form two visually distinct phases was measured.

The results are shown in Table 2.

If the demulsification rate is too fast, the oil/water distribution ratio will change during use, and the cosmetic performance of the composition will also degrade. A composition whose demulsification time is greater than 20 minutes is desirable.

(Candy)

4 ml of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were stirred to form an emulsion. Using a cotton sheet, the emulsion was applied to the skin around the eyes by massaging with a circular motion of the cotton sheet around the eyes for 30 seconds.

Panelists rated the smoothness of the skin during the above application with a rating ranging from 1 (very uncomfortable = friction is felt) to 5 (very soft), and the rating scores were averaged and ranked according to following criteria.

Excellent (5.0 to 4.0): Very gentle during application

Good (3.9 to 3.0): Gentle during application

Bad (2.9 to 2.0): Uncomfortable during application

Very bad (1.9 to 1.0): Very uncomfortable during application

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was introduced into a transparent glass bottle. The transparent vial was maintained under temperature conditions of 4°C, 25°C and 45°C for 2 months. At 4°C, the flask was left standing or shaken daily.

After 2 months, each composition was checked in terms of transparency, color and odor, and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Excellent: Almost the same condition as production.

Good: Small changes in transparency, color and odor were observed.

Bad: Changes in transparency, color and odor were clearly observed. A precipitation or turbid appearance was also clearly observed.

Very poor: Noticeable changes in transparency, color and odor were observed. A precipitation or turbid appearance was also noticeably observed.

The results are shown in Table 2.

(Cleanliness of the packaging)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was introduced into a transparent glass bottle as packaging. Every package was shaken very well. The appearance of the container wall 30 minutes after shaking was checked according to the following criteria. The term “residue” in the following criteria refers to the droplets or film remaining on the container wall.

Excellent: No residue was observed on the wall of the packaging.

Good: A small amount of residue was observed on the wall of the package.

Bad: A few residues were observed on the wall of the packaging.

Very bad: A large amount of residue was observed on the wall of the packaging.

The results are shown in Table 2.

There shows the appearance of the wall of the package 30 minutes after having shaken the package well which includes the composition according to example 1, in which no residue was found on the wall of the package.

There shows the appearance of the wall of the packaging 30 minutes after well shaking the packaging which includes the composition according to comparative example 3 (the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has been removed from the composition according to example 1), in which a large amount of residue was observed on the wall of the package.

(Summary)

Examples 1 to 6 show that the use of a combination of hydrocarbon esters and oils in an oil phase and a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester in an aqueous phase of a two-phase composition or biphasic including the oily phase and the aqueous phase, has contributed to a good ability to remove makeup, with a soft feeling to the touch during application and the elimination of residues on the wall of the packaging which includes the composition, when it is mixed to form a single-phase composition, and that the single-phase composition can return to its initial state, i.e. a two-phase or two-phase composition, with a controlled rate of demulsification.

Examples 1 to 6 also show that the compositions according to the present invention exhibit good stability, in particular good stability at various temperatures, with or without mixing of the compositions, as well as transparency, and that the single-phase compositions derived from the compositions according to the present invention were able to quickly return to two-phase compositions with a clean interface between the two reformed phases.

Comparative example 1 shows that the absence of use of any hydrocarbon oil has deteriorated the ability to remove makeup, compared to examples 1 to 5.

Comparative example 2 shows that the absence of ester oil deteriorated smoothness during application and made the demulsification speed very fast, compared to examples 1 to 5.

Comparative Examples 3 and 4 show that the absence of use of a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester deteriorated the cleanliness of the package compared to Examples 1 and 6, respectively.

Claims (10)

Two-phase composition comprising:
an oily phase comprising
(a) at least one ester oil, and
(b) at least one hydrocarbon oil;
And
an aqueous phase comprising
(c) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, and
(d) water,
in which
the amount of (b) hydrocarbon oil is greater than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the (a) ester oil is chosen from esters of aliphatic C ₁ -C ₂₆ monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of aliphatic C ₁ -C monoalcohols or polyalcohols ₂₆ , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; preferably esters of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids and of saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols; and more preferably alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and alkyl palmitates such as isopropyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 1 or according to claim 2, in which the quantity of the ester oil(s) in the composition is from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the (b) hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably from volatile branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbon oils, and more preferably from the group consisting of isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the quantity of the hydrocarbon oil(s) in the composition is from more than 5% to 50% by weight, preferably more from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from more than 5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid diesters. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units, preferably 4 to 6 polyglyceryl units, and more preferably 5 or 6 polyglyceryl units. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl distearate -6, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the amount of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.005% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous phase of the composition. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of (d) water in the composition is 35% to 95% by weight, preferably 40% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.