FR2863873A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic composition useful for skin cleansing or exfoliation comprises an oil and a nonionic surfactant system comprising an ethoxylated fatty acid glyceride and an ethoxylated hydrogenated oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises an oil and a nonionic surfactant system comprising an ethoxylated fatty acid glyceride and an ethoxylated hydrogenated oil. An independent claim is also included for a cosmetic method for cleansing the skin, comprising applying a composition as above to the skin in the presence of water and rinsing the skin to remove the resulting emulsion and soil residues.

Description

Cleansing composition containing a particular surfactant system

  The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one oil and a nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one glyceryl ester of oxyethylenated fatty acid and at least one oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil, and its use, in particular for removing makeup or cleansing the skin.

  The removal of makeup from the skin is very important for the care of the face. It must be as efficient as possible because fatty residues such as excess sebum, the remains of daily cosmetics and make-up products, accumulate in skin folds and on the surface of the skin, and they can clog the pores of the skin and cause the appearance of pimples.

  Poor make-up and cleansing, and particularly poor rinsing, are often responsible, among other factors, for a cloudy complexion.

  Nowadays, consumers demand that makeup products have an ever longer hold: waterproof mascaras, long-lasting foundation and non-transfer, lipsticks that hold all day long. Therefore, to remove these products, it is necessary to use more and more effective formulations, which make it possible to clean the skin while respecting it.

  Oily compositions are known for their effectiveness as a cleanser and / or makeup remover. They make it possible to dissolve lipophilic soils and makeup very easily, in particular makeup waterproof and transfer-free, difficult to remove. Cleansing oils that are part of the Japanese skin cleansing routine are compositions containing very high amounts of oils that women apply to the face to remove makeup. The gesture of removing makeup with such compositions is broken down into three phases: 1) application of the oil on the face, and massage to melt the makeup; 2) Humidification of the fingers and facial massage to emulsify makeup, oil, and humidifying water; 3) Rinse with water.

  The problem posed by the use of these cleansing oils comes from the difficulty in obtaining a good emulsification of the makeup removal oil on the face when it is moistened. To promote this emulsification, it is known to add in these oils, nonionic surfactants, especially of the glyceryl ester type and oxyethylenated fatty acid or not. However, despite the presence of such surfactants, rinsing may be difficult. In addition, there is often a feeling of fat after rinsing.

  There remains the need for an oily make-up removal and / or skin cleansing composition, which emulsifies and rinses easily, and does not leave a greasy feeling.

  The Applicant has surprisingly found that the introduction of a hydrogenated oil oxyethylenated in a cleansing oil containing an ester of glyceryl and oxyethylenated fatty acid, allowed to obtain an oily composition having a good cleansing power, which emulsified and rinses well, without leaving a greasy feeling.

  Thus, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising (1) at least one oil, (2) a nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one glyceryl ester and oxyethylenated fatty acid and at least one hydrogenated oxyethylenated oil .

  This composition constitutes a rinsable composition. It is self-emulsifiable and is particularly useful for removing makeup and cleansing the skin.

  The composition according to the invention being a cosmetic composition, therefore intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, hair and scalp.

  The term "anhydrous" in the context of the present application, a composition containing no or little water, especially containing at most 10% by weight of water and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to to the total weight of the composition. The amount of water in the composition may thus range from 0 to 10%, preferably from 0 to 5% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0 to 3% of the total weight of the composition.

  Nonionic surfactant system The system used in the composition of the invention comprises at least one glyceryl ester of oxyethylenated fatty acid and at least one oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil. This surfactant system generally has an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) ranging from 3 to 15, more preferably from 4 to 12 and more preferably from 5 to 11. The surfactants used must be soluble in the oily phase. The amount of surfactant system can range, for example, from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight and better still from 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The surfactants used are preferably liquid, and the composition of the invention then has the advantage of being able to be prepared without heating, therefore at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), which is particularly advantageous if it is desired to incorporate heat-sensitive assets.

  As oxyethylenated fatty acid and glyceryl esters, mention may be made, for example, of PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, such as that marketed by Nihon Emulsion under the names EMALEX GWIS-305 and EMALEX GWIS-320EX (CTFA name: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate); and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (CTFA name: PEG-7 Glyceryl cocoate), such as that marketed by Cognis under the name CETIOL HE, and mixtures thereof. It is preferably PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

  As oxyethylenated hydrogenated oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made in particular of those containing from 20 to 60 oxyethylenated groups, and more especially of these, those derived from castor oil. They may be, for example, oxyethylenated derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, comprising, respectively, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 or 60 oxyethylenated groups. Preferably, the hydrogenated castor oil comprising 40 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) is used. One or more oxyethylenated hydrogenated oils can be used.

  The amount of oxyethylenated fatty acid and glyceryl ester is preferably greater than and even substantially greater than the amount of oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil. Thus, the amount of oxyethylenated fatty acid and glyceryl ester (s) can range, for example, from 1 to 29.999% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of oxyethylenated hydrogenated oils can go for example from 0.001 to 3% by weight and preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of the amount of oxyethylenated fatty acid ester and glyceryl to the amount of oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil can range, for example, from 29900: 1 to 50: 1, more preferably from 10000: 1 to 100: 1, and even better from 5000: 1 to 100: 1 and preferably from 1000: 1 to 100: 1.

  The surfactant system of the composition according to the invention may also contain one or more other liposoluble liquid nonionic surfactants, such as oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, fatty acid esters of sorbitan such as (CTFA name) Polysorbate 85 , PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-20 Sorbitan Tetraoleate; fatty acid and polyglyceryl esters such as (CTFA name) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate; and their mixtures.

  When these other surfactants are present, they are preferably in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Oils The composition according to the invention contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil which may be chosen from substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; hydrocarbon oils; synthetic oils; the ethers; fatty alcohols; fluorinated oils; silicone oils; and their mixtures.

  Among the oils that may be included in the composition of the oily phase, mention may be made in particular of: - substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular mineral oils such as mineral oil obtained from petroleum, oil petroleum jelly such as those sold under the Marcol 82, Marcol 52, Marcol 172 and Primol 352 standards by Esso, paraffin oils, volatile or not; polydecenes; isohexadecane; isododecane; hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as sweet almond oil, black currant oil, borage oil, hemp oil, avocado oil, castor oil, coriander oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil , hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, rice bran oil, corn germ oil, lemon wheat germ oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, safflower oil, passion flower oil, rye oil, triglycerides of caprylic acids / capric such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; synthetic oils, such as purcellin oil, fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or ethyl-2 palmitate; hexyl, isopropyl adipate, ethylhexyl adipate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate , hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate and lanolic acid derived esters such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, dioctylcyclohexane, isoparaffins and poly-α-olefins.

  ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN of FINETEX); fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as alcohols, auric, cetyl, myristic, stearyl, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, 2-octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol); fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes.

  By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

  It is possible to use an oil or a mixture of several of the oils indicated above. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one oil chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof.

  The total amount of oils may range, for example, from 70 to 99% by weight, preferably from 80 to 98% by weight, and better still from 80 to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Additives The composition according to the invention may further comprise adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetic field. It may contain in particular at least one adjuvant chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, U.V. filters, colorants, lipophilic active agents, preservatives, or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics, and mixtures thereof.

  The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the field under consideration. Of course, these adjuvants must be of nature and used in an amount such that they do not disturb the composition according to the invention, that is to say it remains rinsing and cleansing. The amount of these adjuvants can range, for example, from 0.0001 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The adjuvants may be chosen in particular from lipophilic active agents such as vitamins, and especially vitamin E (tocopherol).

  As active agents, there may be mentioned, for example, the antiseborrhoeic active agents which make it possible to clean up the excess of sebum on the skin, and the antimicrobial agents which remove from the skin the microorganisms that may be present therein, and the mixtures of these active agents.

  The compositions according to the invention have a very good rinsability. They may constitute in particular a composition for cleaning or removing makeup from the skin, scalp and / or hair, for example a cleansing and / or removing make-up product from the skin, a scrubbing product and / or an exfoliating product for the skin. They may more particularly constitute a composition for cleaning or removing makeup from the skin.

  Another subject of the invention consists in the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, as a product for cleaning and / or removing makeup from the skin, and / or as a scrub and / or exfoliating product for the skin.

  The compositions according to the invention can be used in two ways: • the first use consists in spreading the composition in the hands, applying it on the face or on the body then massaging it in the presence of water to develop the emulsion directly on the face or body.

  The other possible use of this type of product is to develop the emulsion in the palms of the hands before applying it on the face or the body.

  In both cases, the emulsion is then rinsed.

  Another subject of the invention consists in a cosmetic process for cleaning the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin in the presence of water and eliminated. the emulsion formed and the soil residues by rinsing with water.

  Example according to the invention Vaseline oil Vegetable oil PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate Perfume PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil Ethylhexyl palmitate Preparation method: All the compounds are mixed at room temperature.

  Use The product is applied to the face dry, mass to mix the oil makeup, wets hands, massage the face to form an emulsion and then rinsed with water.

  A test on a panel of 10 people was performed to compare the composition of the example according to the invention with respect to an identical composition containing no PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. The test consisted in: 1) taking the composition (approximately 1 g) in the hollow of the left hand, and massaging so as to distribute the composition over the entire surface of the palm; 2) moisten the fingertips of the right hand, and massage the palm of the left hand covered with the test composition; 3) evaluating the emulsification of the test composition by observing the formation of a white emulsion; 4) rinse.

  It has emerged from this test that 8 out of 10 people have judged that the composition according to the invention emulsifies better and rinses better.

Claims (12)

  An anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising (1) at least one oil, (2) a nonionic surfactant system comprising at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid glyceryl ester and at least one oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at most 10% by weight of water.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the amount of surfactant system is from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated fatty acid and glyceryl ester is chosen from PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG7 cocoate, and mixtures thereof.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrogenated oxyethylenated oil is chosen from those comprising from 20 to 60 oxyethylenated groups.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrogenated oxyethylenated oil is chosen from hydrogenated castor oils comprising 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 or 60 oxyethylenated groups.   7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxyethylenated hydrogenated oil is PEG-40 hydrogenated Castor oil.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a total amount of oils ranging from 70 to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a composition for cleaning or removing makeup from the skin.   11. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, as a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up from the skin, and / or as a scrubbing product and / or exfoliating product for the skin.   12. A cosmetic process for cleaning the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the skin in the presence of water, and the emulsion formed is eliminated. and the soil residues by rinsing with water.